GIFT   ©F 
A*   F.   Morrison 


- 


4»     ^» 


ASTORIA 


ANECDOTES  OF  AN  ENTERPRISE 


BEYOND  THE 


ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


BY 


WASHINGTON    IRVING. 


CHICAGO    AND    NZW   YORK: 

BELFORD,  CLARKE   &   COMPANY, 

PUBLISHERS. 


GIFT 
R  ./^   A)0 


TROW'8 

PRINTING  AND  BOOKBINC.NG  GOMPAK 
NEW   YORK. 


INTRODUCTION. 


IN  the  course  of  occasional  visits  to  Canada  many  yearn 
since,  I  became  intimately  acquainted  with  some  of  the  prin 
cipal  partners  of  the  great  Northwest  Fur  Company,  who  at 
that  time  lived  in  genial  style  at  Montreal,  and  kept  almost 
open  house  for  the  stranger.  At  their  hospitable  boards  I  occa 
sionally  met  with  partners,  and  clerks,  and  hardy  fur  traders 
from  the  interior  posts;  men  who  had  passed  years  remote 
from  civilized  society,  among  distant  and  savage  tribes,  and 
who  had  wonders  to  recount  of  their  wide  and  wild  peregrina 
tions,  their  hunting  exploits,  and  their  perilous  adventures  and 
hair-breadth  escapes  among  the  Indians.  I  was  at  an  age 
when  imagination  lends  its  coloring  to  every  thing,  and  the 
stories  of  these  Sinbads  of  the  wilderness  made  the  life  of  a 
trapper  and  fur  trader  perfect  romance  to  me.  I  even  medi 
tated  at  one  time  a  visit  to  the  remote  posts  of  the  company  in 
the  boats  which  annually  ascended  the  lakes  and  rivers,  being 
thereto  invited  by  one  of  the  partners ;  and  I  have  ever  since 
regretted  that  I  was  prevented  by  circumstances  from  carry 
ing  my  intention  into  effect.  From  those  early  impressions, 
the  grand  enterprises  of  the  great  fur  companies,  and  the 
hazardous  errantry  of  their  associates  in  the  wild  parts  of  our 
vasj;  continent,  have  always  been  themes  of  charmed  interest 
to  me ;  and  I  have  felt  anxious  to  get  at  the  details  of  their  ad 
venturous  expeditions  among  the  savage  tribes 'that  peopled 
the  depths  of  the  wilderness. 

About  two  years  ago,  not  long  aftei  my  return  from  a  tour 
upon  the  prairies  of  the  far  West,  I  had  a  conversation  with  my 
friend,  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor,  relative  to  that  portion  of  our 
country,  and  to  the  adventurous  traders  to  Santa  Fe  and  the 
Columbia.  This  led  him  to  advert  to  a  great  enterprise  set  on 
foot  and  conducted  by  him,  between  twenty  and  thirty  years 


4  INTRODUCTION. 

since,  having  for  its  object  to  carry  the  fur  trade  across  the 
Eocky  Mountains,  and  to  sweep  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 

Finding  that  I  took  an  interest  in  the  subject,  he  expressed 
a  regret  that  the  true  nature  and  extent  of  his  enterprise  and 
its  national  character  and  importance  had  never  been  under 
stood,  and  a  wish  that  I  would  undertake  to  give  an  account 
of  it.  The  suggestion  struck  upon  the  chord  of  early  associa 
tions,  already  vibrating  in  my  mind.  It  occurred  to  me  that 
a  work  of  this  kind  might  comprise  a  variety  of  those  curious 
details,  so  interesting  to  me,  illustrative  of  the  fur  trade ;  of  its 
remote  and  adventurous  enterprises,  and  of  the  various  people, 
and  tribes,  and  castes,  and  characters,  civilized  and  savage, 
affected  by  its  operations.  The  journals,  and  letters  also,  of 
the  adventurers  by  sea  and  land  employed  by  Mr.  Astor  in  his 
comprehensive  project,  might  throw  light  upon  portions  of  our 
country  qmte  out  of  the  track  of  ordinary  travel,  and  as  yet 
but  little  known.  I  therefore  felt  disposed  to  undertake  the 
task,  provided  documents  of  sufficient  extent  and  •minuteness 
could  be  furnished  to  me.  All  the  papers  relative  to  the  en 
terprise  were  accordingly  submitted  to  my  inspection.  Among 
them  were  journals  and  letters  narrating  expeditions  by  sea, 
and  journeys  to  and  fro  across  the  Eocky  Mountains  by  routes 
before  untravelled,  together  with  documents  illustrative  of 
savage  and  colonial  life  on  the  borders  of  the  Pacific.  With 
such  materials  in  hand,  I  undertook  the  work.  The  trouble  of 
rummaging  among  business  papers,  and  of  collecting  and  col 
lating  facts  from  amid  tedious  and  commonplace  details,  was 
spared  me  by  my  nephew,  Pierre  M.  Irving,  who  acted  as  my 
pioneer,  and  to  whom  I  am  greatly  indebted  for  smoothing  my 
path  and  lightening  my  labors. 

As  the  journals  on  which  I  chiefly  depended  had  been  kept 
by  men  of  business,  intent  upon  the  main  object  of  the  enter 
prise,  and  but  little  versed  in  science,  or  curious  about  matters 
not  immediately  bearing  upon  their  interests,  and  as  they  were 
written  often  in  moments  of  fatigue  or  hurry,  amid  the  incon 
veniences  of  wild  encampments,  they  were  often  meagre  in 
their  details,  furnishing  hints  to  provoke  rather  than  narra 
tives  to  satisfy  inquiry.  I  have,  therefore,  availed  myself 
occasionally  of  collateral  lights  supplied  by  the  published  jour 
nals  of  other  travellers  who  have  visited  the  scenes  described : 
such  as  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke,  Bradbury,  Breckenridge, 
Long,  Franchere,  and  Eoss  Cox,  and  make  a  general  acknowl 
edgment  of  aid  received  from  these  quarters. 


INTRODUCTION.  5 

The  work  I  here  present  to  the  public  is  necessarily  of  a 
rambling  and  somewhat  disjointed  nature,  comprising  various 
expeditions  and  adventures  by  land  and  sea.  The  facts,  how 
ever,  will  prove  to  be  linked  and  banded  together  by  one 
grand  scheme,  devised  and  conducted  by  a  master  spirit ;  one 
set  of  characters,  also,  continues  throughout,  appearing  occa 
sionally,  though  sometimes  at  long  intervals,  and  the  whole 
enterprise  winds  up  by  a  regular  catastrophe;  so  that  the 
work,  without  any  labored  attempt  at  artificial  construction, 
actually  possesses  much  of  that  unity  so  much  sought  after  in 
works  of  fiction,  and  considered  so  important  to  the  interest  of 
every  history. 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Objects  of  American  enterprise— gold  hunting  and  fur  trading— their  effect  on 
colonization— early  French  Canadian  settlers—  Ottowa  and  Huron  hunters— 
an  Indian  trading  camp— couriers  des  bois,  or  rangers  of  the  woods— their 
roaming  life— their  revels  and  excesses— licensed  traders— missionaries— trad 
ing  posts— primitive  French  Canadian  merchant— his  establishment  and  de 
pendants — British  Canadian  fur  merchant — origin  of  the  Northwest  Company 
— its  constitution — its  internal  trade — a  candidate  for  the  company — privations 
in  the  wilderness — northwest  clerks — northwest  partners — a  northwest  nabob 
— feudal  notions  in  the  forest — the  lords  of  the  lakes — Fort  William— its  par 
liamentary  hall  and  banqueting  room— was  sailing  in  the  wilderness 17 


CHAPTER  II. 

Rise  of  the  Mackinaw  Company— attempt  of  the  American  government  to 
counteract  foreign  influence  over  the  Indian  tribes— John  Jacob  Astor— his 
birth-place— his  arrival  in  the  United  States— what  first  turned  his  attention 
to  the  fur  trade — his  character,  enterprises,  and  success — his  communications 
with  the  American  government — origin  of  the  American  Fur  Company 


CHAPTER  IH. 

Fur  trade  in  the  Pacific — American  coasting  voyages — Russian  enterprises— dis 
covery  of  the  Columbia  River — Carver's  project  to  found  a  settlement  there — 
Mackenzie's  expedition — Lewis  and  Clarke's  journey  across  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains — Mr.  Astor's  grand  commercial  scheme— his  correspondence  on  the  sub 
ject  with  Mr.  Jefferson— his  negotiations  with  the  Northwest  Company— his 
steps  to  carry  his  scheme  into  effect 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Two  expeditions  set  on  foot— the  Tonquin  and  her  crew— Captain  Thorn,  his 
character— the  partners  and  clerks— Canadian  voyageurs,  their  habits,  em 
ployments,  dress,  character,  songs— expedition  of  a  Canadian  boat  and  its 
crew  by  land  and  water— arrival  at  New  York— preparations  for  a  sea  voyage- 
northwest  braggarts— underhand  precautions— letter  of  instructions 40 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V. 

PAGE 

Sailing  of  the  Tonquin — a  rigid  commander  and  a  reckless  crew — landsmen  on 
shipboard — fresh-water  sailors  at  sea — lubber  nests — ship  fare — a  Labrador 
veteran  —  literary  clerks  —  curious  travellers  —  Robinson  Crusoe's  Island  — 
quarter-deck  quarrels — Falkland  Islands — a  wild  goose  chase — Port  Egmont — • 
epitaph  hunting— Old  Mortality —penguin  shooting— sportsmen  left  in  the 
lurch— a  hard  pull— further  altercations— arrival  at  Owyhee 46 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Owyhee— Sandwich  Islanders— their  nautical  talents— Tamaahmaah— his  navy 
—his  negotiations— views  of  Mr.  Astor  with  respect  to  the  Sandwich  Islands— 
Karakakora— royal  monopoly  of  pork— description  of  the  islanders— gayeties 
on  shore — chronicler  of  the  island — place  where  Captain  Cook  was  killed — 
John  Young,  a  nautical  governor — his  story — Waititi— a  royal  residence— a 
royal  visit— grand  ceremonials— close  dealing— a  royal  pork  merchant— griev 
ances  of  a  matter-of-fact  man 54 

CHAPTER  VH. 

Departure  from  the  Sandwich  Islands — misunderstandings — miseries  of  a  sus 
picious  man — arrival  at  the  Columbia — dangerous  service — gloomy  apprehen 
sions—bars  and  breakers— perils  of  the  ship— disasters  of  a  boat's  crew- 
burial  of  a  Sandwich  Islander 64 

CHAPTER  VIH. 

Mouth  of  the  Columbia— the  native  tribes— their  fishing— their  canoes— bold 
navigators— equestrian  Indians  and  piscatory  Indians,  difference  in  their  phy 
sical  organization— search  fora  trading  site— expedition  of  M'Dougal  and 
David  Stewart — Comcomly,  the  one-eyed  chieftain — influence  of  wealth  in 
savage  life — slavery  among  the  natives — an  aristocracy  of  Flatheadfi — hospi 
tality  among  the  Chinooks— Comcomly 's  daughter— her  conquest 70 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Point  George — founding  of  Astoria — Indian  visitors — their  reception — the  cap 
tain  taboos  the  ship— departure  of  the  Tonquin— comments  on  the  conduct  of 
Captain  Thorn 75 

CHAPTER  X. 

Disquieting  rumors  from  the  interior— reconnoitering  party— preparations  for  a 
trading  post— an  unexpected  arrival— a  spy  in  the  camp— expedition  into  the 
interior— shores  of  the  Columbia— Mount  Coffin— Indian  Sepulchre— the  land 
of  spirits— Columbian  valley— Vancouver's  Point— falls  and  rapids— a  great 
fishing  marl^-the  village  of  Wish-ram— difference  between  fishing  Indians  and 
hunting  Indians— effect  of  habits  of  trade  on  the  Indian  character— post  estab 
lished  at  the  Oakinagan 78 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Alarm  at  Astoria— rumor  of  Indian  hostilities— preparations  for  defence— tragi 
cal  fate  of  the  Tonquin 86 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

PAGE 

Gloom  at  Astoria— an  ingenious  stratagem— the.  small-pox  chief— launching  of 
the  Dolly— an  arrival— a  Canadian  trapper— a  freeman  of  the  forest— an  Iro- 
quois  hunter— winter  on  the  Columbia— festivities  of  New  Year  94 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Expedition  by  land— Wilson  P.  Hunt— his  character— Donald  M'Kenzie— recruit 
ing  service  among  the  voyageurs — a  bark  jcanoe — chapel  of  St.  Anne — votive 
offerings — pious  carousals— a  ragged  regiment — Mackinaw — picture  of  a  trad 
ing  post — frolicking  voyageurs— swells  and  swaggers — Indian  coxcombs — a 
man  of  the  north— jockey  ship  of  voyageurs— inefficacy  of  gold— weight  of  a 
feather— Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks— his  character— his  risks  among  the  Indians— his 
warning  concerning  the  Sioux  and  Blackfeet — embarkation  of  recruits — part 
ing  scenes  between  brothers,  cousins,  wives,  sweethearts  and  pot  companions.  99 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

St.  Louis— its  situation— motley  population— Fi-ench  Creole  traders  and  their 
dependants— Missouri  Fur  Company— Mr.  Manuel  Lisa— Mississippi  boatmen 
—vagrant  Indians— Kentucky  hunters— old  French  mansion— fiddling— bil 
liards— Mr.  Joseph  Miller— his  character— recruits— voyage  up  the  Missouri- 
difficulties  of  the  river — merits  of  Canadian  voyageurs — arrival  at  the  Nodo- 
wa — Mr.  Robert  M'Lellan  joins  the  party — John  Day,  a  Virginia  hunter — de 
scription  of  him— Mr.  Hunt  returns  to  St.  Louis 106 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Opposition  of  the  Missouri  Fur  Company— Blackfeet  Indians— Pierre  Dorion,  a 
half-breed  interpreter— old  Dorion  and  his  hybrid  progeny— family  quarrels- 
cross  purposes  between  Dorion  and  Lisa— renegadoes  from  Nodowa— perplexi 
ties  of  a  commander— Messrs.  Bradbury  and  Nuttall  join  the  expedition— legal 
embarrassments  of  Pierre  Dorion— departure  from  St.  Louis— conjugal  disci 
pline  of  a  half  breed — annual  swelling  of  the  rivers— Daniel  Boon,  the  patri 
arch  of  Kentucky— John  Colter— his  adventures  among  the  Indians— rumors 
of  danger  ahead— Fort  Osage— an  Indian  war-feast—troubles  in  the  Dorion 
family— Buffaloes  and  turkey-buzzards Ill 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Return  of  spring— appearance  of  snakes— great  flights  of  wild  pigeons— re 
newal  of  the  voyage — night  encampments — Platte  River — ceremonials  on  pass 
ing  it— signs  of  Indian  war  parties— magnificent  prospect  at  Papillion  Creek- 
desertion  of  two  hunters— an  irruption  into  the  camp  of  Indian  desperadoes- 
village  of  the  Omahas— anecdotes  of  the  tribe — feudal  wars  of  the  Indians — 
story  of  Blackbird,  the  famous  Omaha  chief 121 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Rumors  of  danger  from  the  Sioux  Tetons— ruthless  character  of  those  savages 
—pirates  of  the  Missouri— their  affair  with  Crooks  and  M'Lellan— a  trading 
expedition  broken  up — M'Lellau's  vow  of  vengeance— uneasiness  in  the  camp 
/-desertions— departure  from  the  Omaha  village -meeting  with  Jones  and 


10  CONTEXTS. 

PAGE 

Carson,  two  adventurous  trappers— scientific  pursuits  of  Messrs.  Bradbury 
and  Nuttall— zeal  of  a  botanist— adventure  of  Mr.  Bradbury  with  a  Ponca  In 
dian — expedient  of  the  pocket  compass  and  microscope — a  messenger  from 
Lisa— motives  for  pressing  forward 131 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Camp  gossip— deserters— recruits— Kentucky  hunters— a  veteran  woodman  — 
tidings  of  Mr.  Henry— danger  from  the  Blackfeet— alteration  of  plans— scen 
ery  of  the  river — buffalo  roads — iron  ore — country  of  the  Sioux — a  land  of  dan 
ger — apprehensions  of  the  voyageurs — Indian  scouts— threatened  hostilities— 
a  council  of  war — an  array  of  battle — a  parley — the  pipe  of  peace — speech- 
making  138 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

The  great  bend  of  the  Missouri— Crooks  and  M'Lellan  meet  with  two  of  their  In 
dian  opponents — wanton  outrage  of  a  white  man  the  cause  of  Indian  hostilities 
— dangers  and  precautions — an  Indian  war  party — dangerous  situation  of  Mr. 
Hunt— a  friendly  encampment— feasting  and  dancing— approach  of  Manuel 
Lisa  and  his  party— a  grim  meeting  between  old  rivals— Pierre  Dorion  in  a 
fury — a  burst  of  chivalry 146 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Features  of  the  wilderness — herds  of  buffalo — antelopes — their  varieties  and 
habits— John  Day — his  hunting  stratagem— interview  with  three  Arickaras — 
negotiations  between  the  rival  parties — the  Left-handed  and  the  Big  Man,  two 
Ai-ickara  chiefs— Arickara  village— its  inhabitants— ceremonials  on  landing— 
a  council  lodge— grand  conference— speech  of  Lisa— negotiation  for  horses- 
shrewd  suggestion  of  Gray  Eyes,  an  Arickara  chief— encampment  of  the  trad 
ing  parties 152 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

An  Indian  horse  fair — love  of  the  Indians  for  horses — scenes  in  the  Arickara  vil 
lage—Indian  hospitality— duties  of  Indian  women— game  habits  of  the  men— 
their  indolence— love  of  gossiping— rumors  of  lurking  enemies— scouts— an 
alarm— a  sallying  forth— Indian  dogs-return  of  a  horse-stealing  party— an 
Indian  deputation— fresh  alarms— return  of  a  successful  war  party— dress  of 
the  Arickaras— Indian  toilet— triumphal  entry  of  the  war  party— meetings  of 
relations  and  friends— Indian  sensibility— meeting  of  a  wounded  warrior  and 
his  mother— festivities  and  lamentations 159 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Wilderness  cTf  the  Far  West— great  American  desert— parched  seasons— Black 
Hills— Rocky  Mountains— wandering  and  predatory  hordes— speculations  on 
what  may  be  the  future  population— apprehended  dangers— a  plot  to  desert 
—Rose  the  inrsrpretor— his  sinister  character— departure  from  the  Arickara 
village 167 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Summer  weather  of  the  prairies— purity  of  the  atmosphere— Canadians  on  the 
inai'ch— sickness  in  the  camp --Big  lU\vr  vulgar  nomenclature— suggestions 


CONTENTS.  11 


about  the  original  Indian  names— camp  of  Cheyennes— trade  for  horses- 
character  of  the  Cheyennes— their  horsemanship— historical  anecdotes  of  the 
tribe 171 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

New  distribution  of  horses— secret  information  of  treason  in  the  camp— Rose 
the  interpreter — his  perfidious  character — his  plots— anecdotes  of  the  Crow  In 
dians—notorious  horse-stealers— some  account  of  Rose— a  desperado  of  the 
frontier...  ..  175 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Substitute  for  fuel  on  the  prairies— fossil  trees— fierceness  of  the  buffaloes  when 
in  heat— three  hunters  missing— signal  fires  and  smokes— uneasiness  concern 
ing  the  lost  men— a  plan  to  forestall  a  rogue— new  arrangement  with  Rose- 
return  of  the  wanderers. . .  . .  178 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

The  Black  Mountains— haunts  of  predatory  Indians— their  wild  and  broken  ap 
pearance — superstition  concerning  them — thunder  spirits  singular  noises  in 
the  mountains — secret  mines— hidden  treasures — mountains  in  labor — scientific 
explanation— impassable  defiles — black-tailed  deer — the  bighorn  or  ahsahta — 
prospect  from  a  lofty  height— plain  with  herds  of  buffalo— distant  peaks  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains— alarms  in  the  camp— tracks  of  grizzly  bears — danger 
ous  nature  of  this  animal — adventures  of  William  Cannon  and  John  Day  with 
grizzly  bears < 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Indian  trail— rough  mountain  travelling— sufferings  from  hunger  and  thirst- 
Powder  River— game  in  abundance— a  hunter's  paradise— mountain  peak  seen 
at  a  great  distance— one  of  the  Big  Horn  chain— Rocky  Mountains— extent- 
appearance— height— the  great  American  desert— various  characteristics  of 
the  mountains— Indian  superstitions  concerning  them— land  of  souls— towns 
of  the  free  and  generous  spirits— happy  hunting  grounds 188 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Region  of  the  Crow  Indians— scouts  on  the  lookout— visit  from  a  crew  of  hard 
riders— a  Crow  camp— presents  to  the  Crow  chief— bargaining— Crow  bullies- 
Rose  among  his  Indian  friends — parting  with  the  Crows — perplexities  among 
the  mountains — more  of  the  Crows — equestrian  children — search  after  strag 
glers 191 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Mountain  glens— wandering  band  of  savages— anecdotes  of  Shoshonies  and  Flat- 
heads—root  diggers— their  solitary  lurking  habits— gnomes  of  the  mountains- 
Wind  River— scarcity  of  food— alteration  of  route— the  Pilot  Knobs  or  Tetous 
—branch  of  the  Colorado— hunting  camp 


12  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

PAGE 

A  plentiful  hunting  camp — Shoshonie  hunters — Hoback's  River — Mad  River — 
encampment  near  the  Pilot  Knobs — a  consultation — preparations  for  a  peril 
ous  voyage 202 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

A  consultation  whether  to  proceed  by  land  or  water— preparations  for  boat 
building—an  exploring  party— a  party  of  trappers  detached— two  Snake  visi 
tors — their  report  concerning  the  river — confirmed  by  the  exploring  party — 
Mad  River  abandoned— arrival  at  Henry's  Fort— detachment  of  Robinson,  Ho- 
back  and  Rezner  to  trap — Mr.  Miller  resolves  to  accompany  them — their  de 
parture 204 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Scanty  fare— a  mendicant  Snake — embarkation  on  Henry  River — joy  of  the 
voyageurs — arrival  at  Snake  River — rapids  and  breakers — beginning  of  mis 
fortunes — Suake  encampments — parley  with  a  savage — a  second  disaster — loss 
of  a  boatman— the  Caldron  Linn 210 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Gloomy  council— exploring  parties— discouraging  reports— disastrous  experi 
ment—detachments  in  quest  of  succor— caches,  how  made— return  of  one  of 
the  detachments— unsuccessful— further  disappointments— the  Devil's  Scuttle 
Hole 215 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Determination  of  the  party  to  proceed  on  foot — dreary  deserts  between  Snake 
River  and  the  Columbia — distribution  of  effects  preparatory  to  a  march — 
division  of  the  party — rugged  march  along  the  river — wild  and  broken  scenery 
— Shoshonies — alarm  of  a  Snake  encampment — intercourse  with  the  Snakes— 
horse-dealing — value  of  a  tin  kettle — sufferings  from  thirst — a  horse  reclaimed 
— fortitude  of  an  Indian  woman  -scarcity  of  food — dog's  flesh  a  dainty — news 
of  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  party— painful  travelling  among  the  mountains — snow 
storms—a  dreary  mountain  prospect— a  bivouac  during  a  wintry  night— re 
turn  to  the  river  bank ,  220 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 

An  unexpected  meeting— navigation  in  a  skin  canoe — strange  fears  of  suffering 
men— hardships  of  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  comrades — tidings  of  M'Lellan — a  retro 
grade  march — a  willow  raft — extreme  suffering  of  some  of  the  party — Illness 
of  Mr.  Crooks — impatience  of  some  of  the  men — necessity  of  leaving  the  lag 
gards  behind 228 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

Mr.  Hunt  overtakes  the  advanced  party — Pierre  Dorlon,  and  his  skeleton  horse 
—a  Shoshonie  camp — a  justifiable  outrage— feasting  on  horse  flesh  —  Mr. 
Crooks  brought  to  the  camp — undertakes  to  relieve  his  men— the  skin  ferry 
boat-  frenzy  of  Prevost— his  melancholy  fate— enfeebled  state  of  John  Day— 


CONTENTS.  13 

PAGE 

Mr.  Crooks  again  left  behind— the  party  emerge  from  among  the  mountains- 
interview  with  Shoshonies— a  guide  procured  to  conduct  the  party  across  a 
mountain— ferriage  across  Snake  River— reunion  with  Mr.  Crooks's  men- 
final  departure  from  the  river 232 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Departure  from  the  Snake  River — mountains  to  the  north — wayworn  travellers 
— an  increase  of  the  Dorion  family — a  camp  of  Shoshonies— a  New-Year  festi 
val  among  the  Snakes— a  wintry  march  through  the  mountains — a  sunny 
prospect  and  milder  climate — Indian  horse-tracks — grassy  valleys — a  camp  of 
Sciatogas — joy  of  the  travellers — dangers  of  abundance — habits  of  the  Scia- 
togas — fate  of  Carriere — the  Umatalla — arrival  at  the  banks  of  the  Columbia 
—tidings  of  the  scattered  members  of  the  expedition— scenery  on  the  Colum 
bia—tidings  of  Astoria— arrival  at  the  falls 237 

CHAPTER  XXXVIH. 

The  village  of  Wish-ram — roguery  of  the  inhabitants — their  habitations — tidings 
of  Astoria — of  the  Tonquin  massacre — thieves  about  the  camp — a  band  of 
braggarts — embarkation — arrival  at  Astoria — a  joj'f  ul  reception — old  comrades 
— adventures  of  Reed,  M'Lellan,  and  M'Kenzie  among  the  Snake  River  Moun 
tains—rejoicing  at  Astoria 245 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

Scanty  fare  during  the  winter — a  poor  hunting  ground — the  return  of  the  fishing       ' 
season — the  uthlecan  or  smelt — its  qualities — vast  shoals  of  it— sturgeon — In 
dian  modes  of  taking  it— the  salmon — different  species— nature  of  the  coun-       ; 
try  about  the  coast — forests  and  forest  trees — a  remarkable  flowering  vine — 
animals— birds — reptiles — climate  west  of  the  mountains— mildness  of  tem 
perature—  soil  of  the  coast  and  the  interior 251 

CHAPT^l  XL. 

Natives  in  the  neighborhood  of  Astoria— their  persons  and  characteristics —       ' 
causes  of  deformity — their  dress — their  contempt  of   beards — ornaments —       ! 
armor  and  weapons — mode  of  flattening  the  head — extent  of  the  custom — 
religious  belief — the  two  great  spirits  of  the  air  and  of  the  fire — priests  or 
medicine  men — the  rival  idols — polygamy  a  cause  of  greatness— petty  wayfare 
—music,  dancing,  gambling— thieving  a  virtue— keen  traders— intrusive  habits 
— abhorrence  of  drunkenness — anecodote  of  Comcomly 255 

CHAPTER  XLI. 

Spring  arrangements  at  Astoria — various  expeditions  set  out — the  Long  Nar 
rows—pilfering  Indians— thievish  tribe  at  Wish-ram— portage  at  the  falls- 
portage  by  moonlight— an  attack,  a  rout,  and  a  robbery— Indian  cure  for 
cowardice— a  parley  and  compromise— the  dispatch  party  turn  back— meet 
Crooks  and  John  Day— their  sufferings— Indian  perfidy— arrival  at  Astoria..  261 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

Comprehensive  views— to  supply  the  Russian  fur  establishment— an  agent  sent 
to  Russia— project  of  an  annual  ship— the  Beaver  fitted  out— her  equipment 


14  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

and  crew — instructions  to  the  captain — the  Sandwich  Islands — rumors  of  the 
fate  of  the  Tonquin — precautions  on  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  . . .  269 

CHAPTER  XLIII. 

Active  operations  at  Astoria — various  expeditions  fitted  out — Robert  Stuart  and 
a  party  destined  for  New  York— singular  conduct  of  John  Day— his  fate- 
piratical  pass  and  hazardous  portage— rattlesnakes— their  abhorrence  of 
tobacco— arrival  among  the  Wallah- Wallahs— purchase  of  horses— departure 
of  Stuart  and  his  band  for  the  mountains 272 

CHAPTER  XLIV. 

Route  of  Mr.  Stuart — dreary  wilds — thirsty  travelling — a  grove  and  streamlet — 
the  Blue  Mountains— a  fertile  plain  with  rivulets— sulphur  spring— route 
along  Snake  River— rumors  of  white  men— the  Snake  and  his  horse— a  Snake 
guide — a  midnight  decampment — unexpected  meeting  with  old  comrades — 
story  of  trappers'  hardships— Salmon  Falls— a  great  fishery — mode  of  spear 
ing  salmon — arrival  at  the  Caldron  Linn— state  of  the  caches — new  resolution 
of  the  three  Kentucky  trappers 278 

CHAPTER  XLV. 

The  Snake  River  deserts — scanty  fare— bewildered  travellers — prowling  Indians 
—a  giant  Crow  chief— a  bully  rebuked— Indian  signals— smoke  on  the  moun 
tains—Mad  River— an  alarm— an  Indian  foray— a  scamper— a  rude  Indian  joke 
—a  sharpshooter  balked  of  his  shot  288 

CHAPTER  XLVI. 

Travellers  unhorsed — pedestrian  preparations — prying  spies — bonfire  of  bag 
gage — a  march  on  foot — rafting  a  river — the  wounded  elk— Indian  trails — wil 
ful  conduct  of  Mr.  M'Lellan — grand  prospect  from  a  mountain — distant  craters 

of  volcanoes — Illness  of  Mr.  Crooks 294 

*> 

CHAPTER  XLVII. 

Ben  Jones  and  a  grizzly  bear — rocky  heights— mountain  torrents — traces  of 
M'Lellan — volcanic  remains — mineral  earths — peculiar  clay  for  pottery — 
dismal  plight  of  M'Lellan — starvation — shocking  proposition  of  a  desperate 
man — a  broken-down  bull — a  ravenous  meal — Indian  graves — hospitable  Snakes 
—a  forlorn  alliance  ..  —  300 


CHAPTER  XLVni. 

Spanish  River  scenery — trial  of  Crow  Indians — a  snow-storm — a  rousing  fire 
and  a  buffalo  feast — a  plain  of  salt — climbing  a  mountain — volcanic  summit 
— extinguished  crater — marine  shells — encampment  on  a  prairie — successful 
hunting — good  cheer — romantic  scenery — rocky  defile — foaming  rapids— the 
fiery  narrows 307 

CHAPTER  XLIX. 

Wintry  storms— a  halt  end  council— cantonment  for  the  winter— fine  hunting 
country — game  of  the  mountains  and  plains— successful  hunting — Mr.  Crooks 


PREFACE.  15 

PAGE 

and  a  grizzly  bear— the  wigwam— bighorn  and  blackballs— beef  and  venison- 
good  quarters  and  good  cheer— an  alarm— an  intrusion— unwelcome  guests- 
desolation  of  the  larder— gormandizing  exploits  of  hungry  savages— good 
quarters  abandoned 312 

CHAPTER  L. 

Rough  wintry  travelling— hills  and  plains— snow  and  ice — disappearance  of 
game— a  vast  dreary  plain— a  second  halt  for  the  winter— another  wigwam- 
New  Year's  feast— buffalo  humps,  tongues,  and  marrow  bones— return  of 
spring — launch  of  canoes — bad  navigation — pedestrian  march — vast  prairies — 
deserted  camps — Pawnee  squaws — an  Otto  Indian — news  of  war — voyage 
down  the  Platte  and  the  Missouri — reception  at  Fort  Osage — arrival  at  St. 
Louis  318 

CHAPTER  LI. 

Agreement  between  Mr.  Astor  and  the  Russian  Fur  Company— war  between  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain — instructions  to  Captain  Sowle  of  the  Beaver 
— fitting  out  of  the  Lark — news  of  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Stuart 324 

CHAPTER  LIT. 

Banks  of  the  Wallah- Wallah— departure  of  David  Stuart  for  the  Oakinagan— 
Mr.  Clarke's  route  up  Lewis  River— Chipunnish,  or  Pierced-nose  Indians— 
their  character,  appearance,  and  habits— thievish  habits— laying  up  of  the 
boats — post  at  Pointed  Heart  and  Spokan  Rivers— M'Kenzie,  his  route  up  the 
Camoenum — bands  of  travelling  Indians— expedition  of  Reed  to  the  caches — 
adventures  of  wandering  voyageurs  and  trappers 328 

CHAPTER  LIH. 

Departure  of  Mr.  Hunt  in  the  Beaver — precautions  at  the  factory — detachment 
to  the  Wallamut— gloomy  apprehensions— arrival  of  M'Kenzie— affairs  at 
Shahaptan— news  of  war— dismay  OL  M'Dougal— determination  to  abandon 
Astoria — departure  of  M'Kenzie  for  the  interior — adventure  at  the  rapids- 
visit  to  the  ruffians  of  Wish-ram — a  perilous  situation — meeting  with  M'Tavish 
and  his  party — arrival  at  the  Shahaptan — plundered  caches — determination 
of  the  wintering  partners  not  to  leave  the  country — arrival  of  Clarke  among 
the  Nez  Perces— the  affair  of  the  silver  goblet— hanging  of  an  Indian— arrival 
of  the  wintering  partners  at  Astoria 333 

CHAPTER  LIV. 

The  partners  displeased  with  M'Dougal— equivocal  conduct  of  that  gentleman- 
partners  agree  to  abandon  Astoria — sale  of  goods  to  M'Tavish— arrangements 
for  the  year — manifesto  signed  by  the  partners —departure  of  M'Tavish  for 
the  interior 342 

CHAPTER  LV. 

Anxieties  of  Mr.  Astor— memorial  of  the  North-west  Company— tidings  of  a 
British  naval  expedition  against  Astoria— Mr.  Astor  applies  to  government 
for  protection— the  frigate  Adams  ordered  to  be  fitted  out— bright  news  from 
Astoria — sunshine  suddenly  overclouded . .  345 


16  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  LVI. 

PAGK 

Affairs  of  state  at  Astoria— M'Dougal  proposes  for  the  hand  of  an  Indian  Prin 
cess—matrimonial  embassy  to  Comcomly— matrimonial  notions  among  the 
Chinooks— settlements  and  pin-money— the  bringing  home  of  the  bride— a 
managing  father  in-law— arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt  at  Astoria 347 


CHAPTER  LVII. 

Voyage  of  the  Beaver  to  New  Archangel — a  Russian  governor— roystering  rule 
—the  tyranny  of  the  table— hard  drinking  bargains— voyage  to  Kamschatka— 
seal-catching  establishment  at  St.  Paul's— storms  at  sea— Mr.  Hunt  left  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands— transactions  of  the  Beaver  at  Canton— return  of  Mr.  Hunt 
to  Astoria . .  349 


CHAPTER  LVIII. 

Arrangements  among  the  partners— Mr.  Hunt  sails  in  the  Albatross— arrives  at 
the  Marquesas — news  of  the  frigate  Phoebe — Mr.  Hunt  proceeds  to  the  Sand 
wich  Islands— voyage  of  the  Lark— her  shipwreck— transactions  with  the 
natives  of  the  Sandwich  Islands— conduct  of  Tamaahrnaah. . .  . .  356 


CHAPTER  LIX. 

Arrival  of  M'Tavish  at  Astoria — conduct  of  his  followers — negotiations  of  M'Dou 
gal  and  M'Tavish — bargain  for  the  transfer  of  Astoria — doubts  entertained  of 
the  loyalty  of  M'Dougal 


CHAPTER  LX. 

Arrival  of  a  strange  sail — agitation  at  Astoria — warlike  offer  of  Comcomly — 
Astoria  taken  possession  of  by  the  British — indignation  of  Comcomly  at  the 
conduct  of  his  son-in-law .  . .  365 


CHAPTER  LXI. 

Arrival  of  the  brig  Pedler  at  Astoria— breaking  up  of  the  establishment—  de 
parture  of  several  of  the  company — tragical  story  told  by  the  squaw  of  Pierre 
Dorion — fate  of  Reed  and  his  companions — attempts  of  Mr.  Astor  to  renew 
his  enterprise — disappointment— concluding  observations  and  reflections 369 


APPENDIX. 

Draught  of  a  petition  to  Congress,  sent  by  Mr.  Astor  in  1812 377 

Letter  from  Mr.  Gallatin  to  Mr.  Astor 378 

Notices  of  the  present  state  of  the  Fur  Trade,  chiefly  extracted  from  an  article 

published  in  Silliman's  Journal  for  January,  1834 380 

Height  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 383 

Suggestions  with  respect  to  the  Indian  tribes,  and  the  protection  of  our  trade.  .  384 


ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Two  leading  objects  of  commercial  gain  have  given  birth  to 
wide  and  daring  enterprise  in  the  early  history  of  the  Ameri 
cas  :  the  precious  metals  of  the  south,  and  the  rich  peltries  of 
the  north.  While  the  fiery  and  magnificent  Spaniard,  in 
flamed  with  the  mania  for  gold,  has  extended  his  discoveries 
and  conquests  over  those  brilliant  countries  scorched  by  the 
ardent  sun  of  the  tropics,  the  adroit  and  buoyant  Frenchman, 
and  the  cool  and  calculating  Briton,  have  pursued  the  less 
splendid,  but  no  less  lucrative,  traffic  in  furs  amid  the  hyper 
borean  regions  of  the  Canadas,  until  they  have  advanced  even 
within  the  Arctic  circle. 

These  two  pursuits  have  thus  in  a  manner  been  the  pioneers 
and  precursors  of  civilization.  Without  pausing  on  the  bor 
ders,  they  have  penetrated  at  once,  in  defiance  of  difficulties 
and  dangers,  to  the  heart  of  savage  countries :  laying  open  the 
hidden  secrets  of  the  wilderness;  leading  the  way  to  remote 
regions  of  beauty  and  fertility  that  might  have  remained  un 
explored  for  ages,  and  beckoning  after  them  the  slow  and 
pausing  steps  of  agriculture  and  civilization. 

It  was  the  fur  trade,  in  fact,  which  gave  early  sustenance  and 
vitality  to  the  great  Canadian  provinces.  Being  destitute  of 
the  precious  metals,  at  that  time  the  leading  objects  of  Ameri 
can  enterprise,  they  were  long  neglected  by  the  parent  country. 
The  French  adventurers,  however,  who  had  settled  on  the 
banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  soon  found  that  in  the  rich  peltries 
of  the  interior,  they  had  sources  of  wealth  that  might  almost 
rival  the  mines  of  Mexico  and  Peru.  The  Indians,  as  yet  un 
acquainted  with  the  artificial  value  given  to  some  descriptions 
of  furs,  in  civilized  life,  brought  quantities  of  the  most  precious 
kinds  and  bartered  them  away  for  European  trinkets  and 


18  ASTOEIA. 

cheap  commodities.  Immense  profits  were  thus  made  by  the 
early  traders,  and  the  traffic  was  pursued  with  avidity. 

As  the  valuable  furs  soon  became  scarce  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  settlements,  the  Indians  of  the  vicinity  were  stimulated 
to  jtake  a  wider  range  in  their  hunting  expeditions ;  they  were 
gLeii^rXill^  aeCQQip&nied  on  these  expeditions  by  some  of  the 
traders  or^heMf  dependents,  who  shared  in  the  toils  and  perils 
$£«tlja  cfrasey  and  at*"  the  same  time  made  themselves  acquainted 
t&t]i\&tfe:  befcl?  hunting "  -and  trapping  grounds,  and  with  tli3 
renTote  tJribes^wlfodCtt  vthey  encouraged  to  bring  their  peltries  to 
the  settlements.  In  this  way  the  trade  augmented,  and  was 
drawn  from  remote  quarters  to  Montreal.  Every  now  and 
then  a  large  body  of  Ottawas,  Hurons,  and  other  tribes  who 
hunted  the  countries  bordering  on  the  great  lakes,  would  come 
down  in  a  squadron  of  light  canoes,  laden  with  beaver  skins, 
and  other  spoils  of  their  year's  hunting.  The  canoes  would,  be 
unladen,  taken  on  shore,  and  their  contents  disposed  in  order. 
A  camp  of  birch  bark  would  be  pitched  outside  of  the  town, 
and  a  kind  of  primitive  fair  opened  with  that  grave  ceremonial 
so  dear  to  the  Indians.  An  audience  would  be  demanded  of 
the  governor-general,  who  would  hold  the  conference  with  be 
coming  state,  seated  in  an  elbow  chair,  with  the  Indians  ranged 
in  semicircles  before  him,  seated  on  the  ground,  and  silently 
smoking  their  pipes.  Speeches  would  be  made,  presents  ex 
changed,  and  the  audience  would  break  up  in  universal  good 
humor. 

Now  would  ensue  a  brisk  traffic  with  the  merchants,  and  all 
Montreal  would  be  alive  with  naked  Indians  running  from 
shop  to  shop,  bargaining  for  arms,  kettles,  knives,  axes,  blank 
ets,  bright-colored  cloths,  and  other  articles  of  use  or  fancy; 
upon  all  which,  says  an  old  French  writer,  the  merchants 
were  sure  to  clear  at  least  two  hundred  per  cent.  There  was 
no  money  used  in  this  traffic,  and,  after  a  time,  all  payment 
in  spirituous  liquors  was  prohibited,  in  consequence  of  the 
frantic  and  frightful  excesses  and  bloody  brawls  which  they 
were  apt  to  occasion. 

Their  wants  and  caprices  being  supplied,  they  would  take 
leave  of  the  governor,  strike  their  tents,  launch  their  canoes, 
and  ply  their  way  up  the  Ottawa  to  the  lakes. 

A  new  and  anomalous  class  of  men  gradually  grew  out  of 
this  trade.  These  were  called  coureurs  des  bois,  rangers  of  the 
woods;  originally  men  who  had  accompanied  the  Indians  in 
thoir  hunting  expeditions,  and  made  themselves  acquainted 


ASTORIA.  19 

with  remote  tracks  and  tribes;  and  who  now  became,  as  it 
were,  pedlers  of  the  wilderness.  These  men  would  set  out 
from  Montreal  with  canoes  well  stocked  with  goods,  with  arms 
and  ammunition,  and  would  make  their  way  up  the  mazy 
and  wandering  rivers  that  interlace  the  vast  forests  of  the 
Canadas,  coasting  the  most  remote  lakes,  and  creating  new 
wants  and  habitudes  among  the  natives.  Sometimes  they 
sojourned  for  months  among  them,  assimilating  to  their  tastes 
and  habits  with  the  happy  facility  of  Frenchmen ;  adopting  in 
some  degree  the  Indian  dress,  and  not  unfrequently  taking  to 
themselves  Indian  wives. 

Twelve,  fifteen,  eighteen  months  would  often  elapse  without 
any  tidings  of  them,  when  they  would  come  sweeping  their 
way  down  the  Ottawa  in  full  glee,  their  canoes  laden  down 
with  packs  of  beaver  skins.  Now  came  their  turn  for  revelry 
and  extravagance.  "You  would  be  amazed,"  says  an  old 
writer  already  quoted,  "if  you  saw  how  lewd  these  pedlers  are 
when  they  return ;  how  they  feast  and  game,  and  how  prodigal 
they  are,  not  only  in  their  clothes,  but  upon  their  sweethearts. 
Such  of  them  as  are  married  have  the  wisdom  to  retire  to  their 
own  houses;  but  the  bachelors  act  just  as  an  East  Indiaman 
and  pirates  are  wont  to  do ;  for  they  lavish,  eat,  drink,  and 
play  all  away  as  long  as  the  goods  hold  out;  and  when  these 
are  gone,  they  even  sell  their  embroidery,  their  lace,  and  their 
clothes.  This  done,  they  are  forced  upon  a  new  voyage  for 
subsistence.'1* 

Many  of  these  coureurs  des  bois  became  so  accustomed  to 
the  Indian  mode  of  living,  and  the  perfect  freedom  of  the  wil 
derness,  that  they  lost  all  relish  for  civilization,  and  identified 
themselves  with  the  savages  among  whom  they  dwelt,  or  could 
only  be  distinguished  from  them  by  superior  licentiousness. 
Their  conduct  and  example  gradually  corrupted  the  natives, 
and  impeded  the  works  of  the  Catholic  missionaries,  who  were 
at  this  time  prosecuting  their  pious  labors  in  the  wilds  of 
Canada. 

To  check  these  abuses,  and  to  protect  the  fur  trade  from 
various  irregularities  practised  by  these  loose  adventurers,  an 
order  was  issued  by  the  French  Government  prohibiting  all 
persons,  on  pain  of  death,  from  trading  into  the  interior  of  the 
country  without  a  license. 

These  licenses  were  granted  in  writing  by  the  governor- 

*  La  Hontan,  v.  i.  let.  4. 


20  ASTORIA. 

general,  and  at  first  were  given  only  to  persons  of  respecta 
bility  ;  to  gentlemen  of  broken  fortunes ;  to  old  officers  of  the 
army  who  had  families  to  provide  for;  or  to  their  widows. 
Each  license  permitted  the  fitting  out  of  two  large  canoes  with 
merchandise  for  the  lakes,  and  no  more  than  twenty-five 
licenses  were  to  be  issued  in  one  year.  By  degrees,  however, 
private  licenses  were  also  granted,  and  the  number  rapidly  in 
creased.  Those  who  did  not  choose  to  fit  out  the  expeditions 
themselves  were  permitted  to  sell  them  to  the  merchants; 
these  employed  the  coureurs  des  bois,  or  rangers  of  the  woods, 
to  undertake  the  long  voyages  on  shares,  and  thus  the  abuses 
of  the  old  system  were  revived  and  continued.* 

The  pious  missionaries,  employed  by  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church  to  convert  the  Indians,  did  every  thing  in  their  power 
to  counteract  the  profligacy  caused  and  propagated  by  these 
men  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness.  The  Catholic  chapel  might 
often  be  seen  planted  beside  the  trading  house,  and  its  spire 
surmounted  by  a  cross,  towering  from  the  midst  of  an  Indian 
village,  on  the  banks  of  a  river  or  a  lake.  The  missions  had 
often  a  beneficial  effect  on  the  simple  sons  of  the  forest,  but 
had  little  power  over  the  renegades  from  civilization. 

At  length  it  was  found  necessary  to  establish  fortified  posts 
at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  and  the  lakes  for  the  protection 
of  the  trade,  and  the  restraint  of  these  profligates  of  the  wil 
derness.  The  most  important  of  these  was  at  Michilimackinac, 
situated  at  the  strait  of  the  same  name,  which  connects  Lakes 
Huron  and  Michigan.  It  became  the  great  interior  mart  and 
place  of  deposit,  and  some  of  the  regular  merchants  who  pros 
ecuted  the  trade  in  person,  under  their  licenses,  formed  estab 
lishments  here.  This,  too,  was  a  rendezvous  for  the  rangers 


*  The  following  are  the  terms  on  which  these  expeditions  were  commonly  under 
taken.  The  merchant  holding  the  license  would  fit  out  the  two  canoes  with  a 
thousand  crowns1  worth  of  goods,  and  put  them  under  the  conduct  of  six  courenrs 
des  bois,  to  whom  the  goods  were  charged  at  the  rate  of  fifteen  per  cent,  above  the 
ready-money  price  in  the  colony.  The  coureurs  des  bois,  in  their  turn,  dealt  so 
sharply  with  the  savages,  that  they  generally  returned,  at  the  end  of  a  year  or  so, 
with  four  canoes  well  laden,  so  as  to  insure  a  clear  profit  of  seven  hundred  per 
cent.,  insomuch  that  the  thousand  crowns  invested  produced  eight  thousand.  Of 
this  extravagant  profit,  the  merchant  had  the  lion's  share.  In  the  first  place  he 
would  set  aside  six  hundred  crowns  for  the  cost  of  his  license,  then  a  thousand 
crowns  for  the  cost  of  the  original  merchandise.  This  would  leave  six  thousand 
four  hundred  crowns,  from  which  he  would  take  forty  per  cent,  for  bottomry, 
amounting  to  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  sixty  crowns.  The  residue  would  be 
equally  divided  among  the  six  good  rangers,  who  would  thus  receive  little  more 
than  six  hundred  crowns  for  all  their  toils  and  perils. 


ASTORIA.  21 

of  the  woods,  as  well  those  who  came  up  with  goods  from 
Montreal  as  those  who  returned  with  peltries  from  the  interior. 
Here  new  expeditions  were  fitted  out,  and  took  their  departure 
for  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Mississippi ;  Lake  Superior  and  the 
northwest ;  and  here  the  peltries  brought  in  return  were  em 
barked  for  Montreal. 

The  French  merchant  at  his  trading  post,  in  these  primitive 
days  of  Canada,  was  a  kind  of  commercial  patriarch.  With 
the  lax  habits  and  easy  familiarity  of  his  race,  he  had  a  little 
world  of  self-indulgence  and  misrule  around  him.  He  had  his 
clerks,  canoe-men,  and  retainers  of  all  kinds,  who  lived  with 
him  on  terms  of  perfect  sociability,  always  calling  him  by  his 
Christian  name ;  he  had  his  harem  of  Indian  beauties,  and  his 
troop  of  half-breed  children;  nor  was  there  ever  wanting  a 
louting  train  of  Indians,  hanging  about  the  establishment, 
eating  and  drinking  at  his  expense  in  the  intervals  of  their 
hunting  expeditions. 

The  Canadian  traders,  for  a  long  time,  had  troublesome 
competitors  in  the  British  merchants  of  New  York,  who  in 
veigled  the  Indian  hunters  and  the  coureurs  des  bois  to  their 
posts,  and  traded  with  them  on  more  favorable  terms.  A  still 
more  formidable  opposition  was  organized  in  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  chartered  by  Charles  II.,  in  1670,  with  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  establishing  trading  houses  on  the  shores  of  that 
bay  and  its  tributary  rivers;  a  privilege  which  they  have 
maintained  to  the  present  day.  Between  this  British  company 
and  the  French  merchants  of  Canada,  feuds  and  contests  arose 
about  alleged  infringements  of  territorial  limits,  and  acts  of 
violence  and  bloodshed  occurred  between  their  agents. 

In  1762  the  French  lost  possession  of  Canada,  and  the  trade 
fell  principally  into  the  hands  of  British  subjects.  For  a  time, 
however,  it  shrunk  within  narrow  limits.  The  old  coureurs 
des  bois  were  broken  up  and  dispersed,  or,  where  they  could 
be  met  with,  were  slow  to  accustom  themselves  to  the  habits 
and  manners  of  their  British  employers.  They  missed  the 
freedom,  indulgence,  and  familiari-ty  of  the  old  French  trading 
houses,^  and  did  not  relish  the  sober  exactness,  reserve,  and 
method  of  the  new-comers.  The  British  traders,  too,  were 
ignorant  of  the  country,  and  distrustful  of  the  natives.  They 
had  reason  to  be  so.  The  treacherous  and  bloody  affairs  of 
Detroit  and  Michilimackinac  showed  them  the  lurking  hos 
tility  cherished  by  the  savages,  who  had  too  long  been  taught 
by  the  French  to  regard  them  as  enemies. 


22  ASTORIA. 

It  was  not  until  the  year  176  G  that  the  trade  regained  its  old 
channels;  but  it  was  then  pursued  with  much  avidity  and 
emulation  by  individual  merchants,  and  soon  transcended  its 
former  bounds.  Expeditions  were  fitted  out  by  various  per 
sons  from  Montreal  and  Michilimackinac,  and  rivalships  and 
jealousies  of  course  ensued.  The  trade  was  injured  by  their 
artifices  to  outbid  and  undermine  each  other ;  the  Indians  were 
debauched  by  the  sale  of  spirituous  liquors,  which  had  been 
prohibited  under  the  French  rule.  Scenes  of  drunkenness, 
brutality,  and  brawl  were  the  consequence,  in  the  Indian  vil 
lages  and  around  the  trading  houses ;  while  bloody  feuds  took 
place  between  rival  trading  parties  when  they  happened  to  en 
counter  each  other  in  the  lawless  depths  of  the  wilderness. 

To  put  an  end  to  these  sordid  and  ruinous  contentions, 
several  of  the  principal  merchants  of  Montreal  entered  into  a 
partnership  in  the  winter  of  1783,  which  was  augmented  by 
amalgamation  with  a  rival  company  in  1787.  Thus  was 
created  the  famous  "Northwest  Company,"  which  for  a  time 
held  a  lordly  sway  over  the  wintry  lakes  and  boundless  forests 
of  the  Canadas,  almost  equal  to  that  of  the  East  India  Com 
pany  over  the  voluptuous  climes  and  magnificent  realms  of  the 
Orient. 

The  company  consisted  of  twenty-three  shareholders  or 
partners,  but  held  in  its  employ  about  two  thousand  persons 
as  clerks,  guides,  interpreters,  and  "  voyageurs,"  or  boatmen. 
These  were  distributed  at  various  trading  posts,  established 
far  and  wide  on  the  interior  lakes  and  rivers,  at  immense 
distances  from  each  other,  and  in  the  heart  of  trackless  coun 
tries  and  savage  tribes. 

Several  of  the  partners  resided  in  Montreal  and  Quebec,  to 
manage  the  main  concerns  of  the  company.  These  were  called 
agents,  and  were  personages  of  great  weight  and  importance ; 
the  other  partners  took  their  stations  at  the  interior  posts, 
where  they  remained  throughout  the  winter,  to  superintend 
the  intercourse  with  the  various  tribes  of  Indians.  They  were 
thence  called  wintering  partners. 

The  goods  destined  for  this  wide  and  wandering  traffic  were 
put  up  at  the  warehouses  of  the  company  in  Montreal,  and  con 
veyed  in  batteaux,  or  boats  and  canoes,  up  the  Eiver  Attawa, 
or  Ottawa,  which  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence  near  Montreal, 
and  by  other  rivers  and  portages  to  Lake  Nipissing,  Lake 
Huron,  Lake  Superior,  and  thence,  by  several  chains  of  great 
and  small  lakes,  to  Lake  Winnipeg,  Lake  Athabasca,  and  the 


ASTORIA.  23 

Great  Slave  Lake.  This  singular  and  beautiful  system  of 
internal  seas,  which  renders  an  immense  region  of  wilderness 
so  accessible  to  the  frail  bark  of  the  Indian  or  the  trader,  was 
studded  by  the  remote  posts  of  the  company,  where  they 
carried  on  their  traffic  with  the  surrounding  tribes. 

The  company,  as  we  have  shown,  was  at  first  a  spontaneous 
association  of  merchants;  but  after  it  had  been  regularly 
organized,  admission  into  it  became  extremely  difficult.  A 
candidate  had  to  enter,  as  it  were,  "  before  the  mast,"  to  un 
dergo  a  long  probation,  and  to  riss  slowly  by  his  merits  and 
services.  He  began  at  an  early  age  as  a  clerk,  and  served  an 
apprenticeship  of  seven  years,  for  which  he  received  one  hun 
dred  pounds  sterling,  was  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the 
company,  and  furnished  with  suitable  clothing  and  equip 
ments.  His  probation  was  generally  passed  at  the  interior 
trading  posts ;  removed  for  years  from  civilized  society,  lead 
ing  a  life  almost  as  wild  and  precarious  as  the  savages  around 
him;  exposed  to  the  severities  of  a  northern  winter,  often 
suffering  from  a  scarcity  of  food,  and  sometimes  destitute  for 
a  long  time  of  both  bread  and  salt.  When  his  apprenticeship 
had  expired,  he  received  a  salary  according  to  his  deserts, 
varying  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  sixty  pounds  sterling, 
and  was  now  eligible  to  the  great  object  of  his  ambition,  a 
partnership  in  the  company;  though  years  might  yet  elapso 
before  he  attained  to  that  enviable  station. 

Most  of  the  clerks  were  young  men  of  good  families,  from 
the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  characterized  by  the  perseverance, 
tnrift,  and  fidelity  of  their  country,  and  fitted  by  their  native 
hardihood  to  encounter  the  rigorous  climate  of  the  north,  and 
to  endure  the  trials  and  privations  of  their  lot ;  though  it  must 
not  be  concealed  that  the  constitutions  of  many  of  them  be 
came  impaired  by  the  hardships  of  the  wilderness,  and  their 
stomachs  injured  by  occasional  famishing,  and  especially  by 
the  want  of  bread  and  salt.  Now  and  then,  at  an  interval  01 
years,  they  were  permitted  to  come  down  on  a  visit  to  the 
establishment  at  Montreal,  to  recruit  their  health,  and  to  have 
a  taste  of  civilized  life ;  and  these  were  brilliant  spots  in  their 
existence. 

As  to  the  principal  partners  or  agents,  who  resided  in  Mon 
treal  and  Quebec,  they  formed  a  kind  of  commercial  aristo 
cracy,  living  in  lordly  and  hospitable  style.  Their  early  asso 
ciations  when  clerks  at  the  remote  trading  posts,  and  the 
pleasures,  dangers,  adventures,  and  mishaps  which  they  had 


24  ASTORIA. 

shared  together  in  their  wild  wood  life,  had  linked  them 
heartily  to  each  other,  so  that  they  formed  a  convivial  fra 
ternity.  Few  travellers  that  have  visited  Canada  some  thirty 
years  since,  in  the  days  of  the  M'Tavishes,  the  M'Gillivrays, 
the  M'Kenzies,  the  Frobishers,  and  the  other  magnates  of  the 
northwest,  when  the  company  was  in  all  its  glory,  but  must 
remember  the  round  of  feasting  and  revelry  kept  up  among 
these  hyperborean  nabobs. 

Sometimes  one  or  two  partners,  recently  from  the  interior 
posts,  would  make  their  appearance  in  New  York,  in  the  course 
of  a  tour  of  pleasure  and  curiosity.  On  these  occasions  there 
was  always  a  degree  of  magnificence  of  the  purse  about  them, 
and  a  peculiar  propensity  to  expenditure  at  the  goldsmith's 
and  jeweller's,  for  rings,  chains,  brooches,  necklaces,  jewelled 
watches,  and  other  rich  trinkets,  partly  for  their  own  wear, 
partly  for  presents  to  their  female  acquaintances ;  a  gorgeous 
prodigality,  such  as  was  often  to  be  noticed  in  former  times  in 
southern  planters  and  West  India  Creoles,  when  flush  with  the 
profits  of  their  plantations. 

To  behold  the  Northwest  Company  in  all  its  state  and 
grandeur,  however,  it  was  necessary  to  witness  an  annual 
gathering  at  the  great  interior  place  of  conference  established 
at  Fort  William,  near  what  is  called  the  Grand  Portage,  on 
Lake  Superior.  Here  two  or  three  of  the  leading  partners 
from  Montreal  proceeded  once  a  year  to  meet  the  partners 
from  the  various  trading  posts  of  the  wilderness,  to  discuss  the 
affairs  of  the  company  during  the  preceding  year,  and  to 
arrange  plans  for  the  future. 

On  those  occasions  might  be  seen  the  change  since  the  un 
ceremonious  times  of  the  old  French  traders;  now  the  aris- 
tocratical  character  of  the  Briton  shone  forth  magnificently, 
or  rather  the  feudal  spirit  of  the  Highlander.  Every  partner 
who  had  charge  of  an  interior  post,  and  a  score  of  retainers  at 
his  command,  felt  like  the  chieftain  of  a  Highland  clan,  and 
was  almost  as  important  in  the  eyes  of  his  dependents  as  of 
himself.  To  him  a  visit  to  the  grand  conference  at  Fort 
William  was  a  most  important  event ;  and  he  repaired  there  as 
to  a  meeting  of  parliament. 

The  partners  from  Montreal,  however,  were  the  lords  of  the 
ascendant ;  coming  from  the  midst  of  luxurious  and  ostenta 
tious  life,  they  quite  eclipsed  their  compeers  from  the  woods, 
whose  forms  and  faces  had  been  battered  and  hardened  by 
hard  living  and  hard  service,  and  whose  garments  and  equip* 


ASTORIA.  25 

ments  were  all  the  worse  for  wear.  Indeed,  the  partners  from 
below  considered  the  whole  dignity  of  the  company  as  repre 
sented  in  their  persons,  and  conducted  themselves  in  suitable 
style.  They  ascended  the  rivers  in  great  state,  like  sovereigns 
making  a  progress :  or  rather  like  Highland  chieftains  navigat 
ing  their  subject  lakes.  They  were  wrapped  in  rich  furs, 
their  huge  canoes  freighted  with  every  convenience  and 
mxury,  and  manned  by  Canadian  voyageurs,  as  obedient  as 
Highland  clansmen.  They  carried  up  with  them  cooks  and 
bakers,  together  with  delicacies  of  every  kind,  and  abundance 
of  choice  wines  for  the  banquets  which  attended  this  great  con 
vocation.  Happy  were  they,  too,  if  they  could  meet  Avith 
some  distinguished  stranger ;  above  all,  some  titled  member  of 
the  British  nobility,  to  accompany  them  011  this  stately  occa 
sion,  and  grace  their  high  solemnities. 

Fort  William,  the  scene  of  this  important  annual  meeting, 
was  a  considerable  village  on  the  banks  of  Lake  Superior. 
Here,  in  an  immense  wooden  building,  was  the  great  council 
hall,  as  also  the  banqueting  chamber,  decorated  with  Indian 
arms  and  accoutrements,  and  the  trophies  of  the  fur  trade. 
The  house  swarmed  at  this  time  with  traders  and  voyageurs, 
some  from  Montreal,  bound  to  the  interior  posts;  some  from 
the  interior  posts,  bound  to  Montreal.  The  councils  were  held 
in  great  state,  for  every  member  felt  as  if  sitting  in  parliament, 
and  every  retainer  and  dependent  looked  up  to  the  assemblage 
with  awe,  as  to  the  house  of  lords.  There  was  a  vast  deal  of 
solemn  deliberation,  and  hard  Scottish  reasoning,  with  an  occa 
sional  swell  of  pompous  declamation. 

These  grave  and  weighty  councils  were  alternated  by  huge 
feasts  and  revels,  like  some  of  the  old  feasts  described  in  High 
land  castles.  The  tables  in  the  great  banqueting  room 
groaned  under  the  weight  of  game  of  all  kinds;  of  venison 
from  the  woods,  and  fish  from  the  lakes,  with  hunters'  deli 
cacies,  such  as  buffaloes'  tongues  and  beavers'  tails ;  and  vari 
ous  luxuries  from  Montreal,  all  served  up  by  experienced 
cooks  brought  for  the  purpose.  There  was  no  stint  of  gener 
ous  wine,  for  it  was  a  hard-drinking  period,  a  time  of  loyal 
toasts,  and  bacchanalian  songs,  and  brimming  bumpers. 

While  the  chiefs  thus  revelled  in  hall,  and  made  the  rafters 
resound  with  bursts  of  loyalty  and  old  Scottish  songs,  chanted, 
in  voices  cracked  and  sharpened  by  the  northern  blast,  their 
merriment  was  echoed  and  prolonged  by  a  mongrel  legion  of 
retainers,  Canadian  voyageurs,  half-breeds,  Indian  hunters, 


26  ASTORIA. 

and  vagabond  hangers-on,  who  feasted  sumptuously  without 
on  the  crumbs  that  fell  from  their  table,  and  made  the  welkin 
ring  with  old  French  ditties,  mingled  with  Indian  yelps  and 
yellings. 

Such  was  the  Northwest  Company  in  its  powerful  and  pros 
perous  days,  when  it  held  a  kind  of  feudal  sway  over  a  vast 
domain  "of  lake  and  forest.  We  are  dwelling  too  long,  perhaps, 
upon  these  individual  pictures,  endeared  to  us  by  the  associa 
tions  of  early  life,  when,  as  yet  a  stripling  youth,  we  have  sat 
at  the  hospitable  boards  of  the  ' '  mighty  Northwesters, "  the 
lords  of  the  ascendant  at  Montreal,  and  gazed  with  wondering 
and  inexperienced  eye  at  the  baronial  wassailing,  and  listened 
with  astonished  ear  to  their  tales  of  hardships  and  adventures. 
It  is  one  object  of  our  task,  however,  to  present  scenes  of  the 
rough  life  of  the  wilderness,  and  we  are  tempted  to  fix  these 
few  memorials  of  a  transient  state  of  things  fast  passing  into 
oblivion ;  for  the  feudal  state  of  Fort  William  is  at  an  end ;  its 
council-chamber  is  silent  and  deserted;  its  banquet-hall  no 
longer  echoes  to  the  burst  of  loyalty,  or  the  "auld  world" 
ditty ;  the  lords  of  the  lakes  and  forests  have  passed  away ;  and 
the  hospitable  magnates  of  Montreal— where  are  they? 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE  success  of  the  Northwest  Company  stimulated  further 
enterprise  in  this  opening  and  apparently  boundless  field  of 
profit.  The  traffic  of  that  company  lay  principally  in  the  high 
northern  latitudes,  while  there  were  immense  regions  to  the 
south  and  west,  known  to  abound  with  valuable  peltries ;  but 
which,  as  yet,  had  been  but  little  explored  by  the  fur  trader. 
A  new  association  of  British  merchants  was  therefore  formed, 
to  prosecute  the  trade  in  this  direction.  The  chief  factory  was 
established  at  the  old  emporium  of  Michilimackinac,  from 
which  place  the  association  took  its  name,  and  was  commonly 
called  the  Mackinaw  Company. 

While  the  Northwesters  continued  to  push  their  enterprises 
into  the  hyperborean  regions  from  their  stronghold  at  Fort 
William,  and  to  hold  almost  sovereign  sway  over  the  tribes  of 
the  upper  lakes  and  rivers,  the  Mackinaw  Company  sent  forth 
their  light  perogues  and  barks,  by  Green  Bay,  Fox  River,  and 


ASTORIA.  27 

the  Wisconsin,  to  that  great  artery  of  the  west,  the  Mississippi; 
and  down  that  stream  to  all  its  tributary  rivers.  In  this  way 
they  hoped  soon  to  monopolize  the  trade  with  all  the  tribes  on 
the  southern  and  western  waters,  and  of  those  vast  tracts  com 
prised  in  ancient  Louisiana. 

The  government  of  the  United  States  began  to  view  with  a 
wary  eye  the  growing  influence  thus  acquired  by  combinations 
of  foreigners  over  the  aboriginal  tribes  inhabiting  its  terri 
tories,  and  endeavored  to  counteract  it.  For  this  purpose,  as 
early  as  1796  the  government  sent  out  agents  to  establish  rival 
trading  houses,  on  the  frontier,  so  as  to  supply  the  wants  of 
the  Indians,  to  link  their  interests  and  feeJings  with  those  of 
the  people  of  the  United  States,  and  to  divert  this  important 
branch  of  trade  into  national  channels. 

The  expedient,  however,  was  unsuccessful,  as  most  commer 
cial  expedients  are  prone  to  be,  where  the  dull  patronage  of 
government  is  counted  upon  to  outvie  the  keen  activity  of  pri 
vate  enterprise.  What  government  failed  to  effect,  however, 
with  all  its  patronage  and  all  its  agents,  was  at  length  brought 
about  by  the  enterprise  and  perseverance  of  a  single  merchant, 
one  of  its  adopted  citizens ;  and  this  brings  us  to  speak  of  the 
individual  whose  enterprise  is  the  especial  subject  of  the  fol 
lowing  pages ;  a  man  whose  name  and  character  are  worthy  of 
being  enrolled  in  the  history  of  commerce,  as  illustrating  its 
noblest  aims  and  soundest  maxims.  A  few  brief  anecdotes  of 
his  early  life,  and  of  the  circumstances  which  first  determined 
him  to  the  branch  of  commerce  of  which  we  are  treating,  can 
not  be  but  interesting. 

John  Jacob  Astor,  the  individual  in  question,  was  born  in 
the  honest  little  German  village  of  Waldorf,  near  Heidelberg, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine.  He  was  brought  up  in  the  simpli 
city  of  rural  life,  but,  while  yet  a  mere  stripling,  left  his  home 
and  launched  himself  amid  the  busy  scenes  of  London,  having 
had,  from  his  very  boyhood,  a  singular  presentiment  that  he 
would  ultimately  arrive  at  great  fortune. 

At  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution  he  was  still  in  Lon 
don,  and  scarce  on  the  threshold  of  active  life.  An  elder 
brother  had  been  for  some  years  resident  in  the  United  States, 
and  Mr.  Astor  determined  to  follow  him,  and  to  seek  his  for 
tunes  in  the  rising  country.  Investing  a  small  sum  which  he 
had  amassed  since  leaving  his  native  village,  in  merchandise 
suited  to  the  American  market,  he  embarked,  in  the  month  of 
November,  1783,  in  a  ship  bound  to  Baltimore,  and  arrived  in 


28  ASTORIA. 

Hampton  Koads  in  the  month  of  January.  The  winter  was 
extremely  severe,  and  the  ship,  with  many  others,  was  de 
tained  by  the  ice  in  and  about  Chesapeake  Bay  for  nearly  three 
months. 

During  this  period  the  passengers  of  the  various  ships  used 
occasionally  to  go  on  shore,  and  mingle  sociably  together.  In 
this  way  Mr.  Astor  became  acquainted  with  a  countryman  of 
his,  a  furrier  by  trade.  Having  had  a  previous  impression  that 
this  might  be  a  lucrative  trade  in  the  New  World,  he  mado 
many  inquiries  of  his  new  acquaintance  on  the  subject,  who 
cheerfully  gave  him  all  the  information  in  his  power  as  to  the 
quality  and  value  of  different  furs,  and  the  mode  of  carrying 
on  the  traffic.  He  subsequently  accompanied  him  to  New 
York,  and,  by  his  advice,  Mr.  Astor  was  induced  to  invest  the 
proceeds  of  his  merchandise  in  furs.  With  these  he  sailed 
from  New  York  to  London  in  1784,  disposed  of  them  advant 
ageously,  made  himself  further  acquainted  with  the  course  of 
the  trade,  and  returned  the  same  year  to  New  York,  with  a 
view  to  settle  in  the  United  States. 

He  now  devoted  himself  to  the  branch  of  commerce  with 
which  he  had  thus  casually  been  made  acquainted.  He  began 
his  career,  of  course,  on  the  narrowest  scale ;  but  he  brought 
to  the  task  a  persevering  industry,  rigid  economy,  and  strict 
integrity.  To  these  were  added  an  aspiring  spirit  that  always 
looked  upward ;  a  genius  bold,  fertile,  and  expansive ;  a  sagacity 
quick  to  grasp  and  convert  every  circumstance  to  its  advan 
tage,  and  a  singular  and  never- wavering  confidence  of  signal 
success.* 

As  yet  trade  in  peltries  was  not  organized  in  the  United 
States,  and  could  not  be  said  to  form  a  regular  line  of  business. 
Furs  and  skins  were  casually  collected  by  the  country  traders 
in  their  dealings  with  the  Indians  or  the  white  hunters,  but  the 
main  supply  was  derived  from  Canada.  As  Mr.  Astor's  means 
increased  he  made  annual  visits  to  Montreal,  where  he  pur 
chased  furs  from  the  houses  at  that  place  engaged  in  the  trade. 


*An  instance  of  this  buoyant  confidence,  which  no  doubt  aided  to  produce  the 
success  it  anticipated,  we  have  from  the  lips  of  Mr.  A.  himself.  While  yet  almost 
a  stranger  in  the  city,  and  in  very  narrow  circumstances,  he  passed  by  where  a  row 
of  houses  had  just  been  erected  in  Broadway,  and  which,  from  the  superior  style 
of  their  architecture,  were  the  talk  and  boast  of  the  city.  "I'll  build  one  day  or 
other,  a  greater  house  than  any  of  these,  in  this  very  street,"  said  he  to  himself 
He  has  accomplished  his  prediction. 


ASTORIA.  29 

These  he  shipped  from  Canada  to  London,  no  direct  trade  be 
ing  allowed  from  that  colony  to  any  but  the  mother  country. 

In  1794  or  '95,  a  treaty  with  Great  Britain  removed  the  re 
strictions  imposed  upon  the  trade  with  the  colonies,  and  opened 
a  direct  commercial  intercourse  between  Canada  and  the 
United  States.  Mr.  Astor  was  in  London  at  the  time,  and  im 
mediately  made  a  contract  with  the  agents  of  the  Northwest 
Company  for  furs.  He  was  now  enabled  to  import  them  from 
Montreal  into  the  United  States  for  the  home  supply,  and  to  be 
shipped  thence  to  different  parts  of  Europe,  as  well  as  to  China, 
which  has  ever  been  the  best  market  for  the  richest  and  finest 
kinds  of  peltry. 

The  treaty  in  question  provided,  likewise,  that  the  military 
posts  occupied  by  the  British  within  the  territorial  limits  of  the 
United  States  should  be  surrendered.  Accordingly,  Oswego, 
Niagara,  Detroit,  Michilimackinac,  and  other  posts  on  the 
American  side  of  the  lakes  were  given  up.  An  opening  was 
thus  made  for  the  American  merchant  to  trade  011  the  confines 
of  Canada,  and  within  the  territories  of  the  United  States. 
After  an  interval  of  some  years,  about  1807,  Mr.  Astor  em 
barked  in  this  trade  on  his  own  account.  His  capital  and  re 
sources  had  by  this  time  greatly  augmented,  and  he  had  risen 
from  small  beginnings  to  take  his  place  among  the  first  mer 
chants  and  financiers  of  the  country.  His  genius  had  -ever 
been  in  advance  of  his  circumstances,  prompting  him  to  new 
and  wide  fields  of  enterprise  beyond  the  scope  of  ordinary  mer 
chants.  With  all  his  enterprise  and  resources,  however,  he 
soon  found  the  power  and  influence  of  the  Michilimackinac  (or 
Mackinaw)  Company  too  great  for  him,  having  engrossed  most 
of  the  trade  within  the  American  borders. 

A  plan  had  to  be  devised  to  enable  him  to  enter  into  success 
ful  competition.  He  was  aware  of  the  wish  of  the  American 
government,  already  stated,  that  the  fur  trade  within  its  bound 
aries  should  be  in  the  hands  of  American  citizens,  and  of  the 
ineffectual  measures  it  had  taken  to  accomplish  that  object. 
He  now  offered,  if  aided  and  protected  by  government,  to  turn 
the  whole  of  that  trade  into  American  channels.  He  was  in 
vited  to  unfold  his  plans  to  government,  and  they  were  warmly 
approved,  though  the  executive  could  give  no  direct  aid. 

Thus  countenanced,  however,  he  obtained,  in  1809,  a  charter 
from  the  Legislature  of  the  State  of  New  York,  incorporating 
a  company  under  the  name  of  u  The  American  Fur  Company," 
with  a  capital  of  one  million  of  dollars,  with  the  privilege  of  in- 


30  ASTORIA. 

creasing  it  to  two  millions.  The  capital  was  furnished  by  him 
self  -  he,  in  fact,  constituted  the  company ;  for,  though  he  had 
a  board  of  directors,  they  were  merely  nominal;  the  whole 
business  was  conducted  on  his  plans,  and  with  his  resources, 
but  he  preferred  to  do  so  under  the  imposing  and  formidable 
aspect  of  a  corporation,  rather  than  in  his  individual  name, 
and  his  policy  was  sagacious  and  effective. 

As  the  Mackinaw  Company  still  continued  its  rivalry,  and 
as  the  fur  trade  would  not  advantageously  admit  of  competi 
tion,  he  made  a  new  arrangement  in  1811,  by  which,  in  con 
junction  with  certain  partners  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and 
other  persons  engaged  in  the  fur  trade,  he  bought  out  the 
Mackinaw  Company,  and  merged  that  and  the  American  Fur 
Company  into  a  new  association,  to  be  called  "The  Southwest 
Company."  This  he  likewise  did  with  the  privity  and  appro 
bation  of  the  American  government. 

By  this  arrangement  Mr.  Astor  became  proprietor  of  one 
half  of  the  Indian  establishments  and  goods  which  the  Mack 
inaw  Company  had  within  the  territory  of  the  Indian  country 
in  the  United  States,  and  it  was  understood  that  the  whole  was 
to  be  surrendered  into  his  hands  at  the  expiration  of  five  years, 
on  condition  that  the  American  Company  would  not  trade 
within  the  British  dominions. 

Unluckily,  the  war  which  broke  out  in  1812  between  Graat 
Britain  and  the  United  States  suspended  the  association ;  and 
after  the  war  it  was  entirely  dissolved ;  Congress  having  passed 
a  law  prohibiting  British  fur  traders  from  prosecuting  their 
enterprises  within  the  territories  of  the  United  States. 


CHAPTER  III 

WHILE  the  various  companies  we  have  noticed  were  pushing 
their  enterprises  far  and  wide  in  the  wilds  of  Canada,  and 
along  the  course  of  the  great  western  waters,  other  adventu 
rers,  intent  on  the  same  objects,  were  traversing  the  watery 
wastes  of  the  Pacific  and  skirting  the  northwest  coast  of 
America.  The  last  voyage  of  that  renowned  but  unfortunate 
discoverer,  Captain  Cook,  had  made  known  the  vast  quanti 
ties  of  the  sea-otter  to  be  found  along  that  coast,  and  the  im 
mense  prices  to  be  obtained  for  its  fur  in  China.  It  was  as  if 


ASTORIA.  31 

a  new  gold  coast  had  been  discovered.  Individuals  from 
various  countries  dashed  into  this  lucrative  traffic,  so  that  in 
the  year  1792  there  were  twenty-one  vessels  under  different 
flags,  plying  along  the  coast  and  trading  with  the  natives. 
The  greater  part  of  them  were  American,  and  owned  by  Bos 
ton  merchants.  They  generally  remained  on  the  coast  and 
about  the  adjacent  seas  for  two  years,  carrying  on  as  wander 
ing  and  adventurous  a  commerce  on  the  water  as  did  the 
traders  and  trappers  on  land.  Their  trade  extended  along  the 
whole  coast  from  California  to  the  high  northern  latitudes. 
They  would  run  in  near  shore,  anchor,  and  wait  for  the  natives 
to  come  off  in  their  canoes  with  peltries.  The  trade  exhausted 
at  one  place,  they  would  up  anchor  and  off  to  another.  In  this 
way  they  would  consume  the  summer,  and  when  autumn  came 
on,  would  run  down  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  winter  in 
some  friendly  and  plentiful  harbor.  In  the  following  year 
they  would  resume  their  summer  trade,  commencing  at  Cali 
fornia  and  proceeding  north ;  and,  having  in  the  course  of  the 
two  seasons  collected  a  sufficient  cargo  of  peltries,  would  make 
the  best  of  their  way  to  China.  Here  they  would  sell  their 
furs,  take  in  teas,  nankeens,  and  other  merchandise,  and  re 
turn  to  Boston,  after  an  absence  of  two  or  three  years. 

The  people,  however,  who  entered  most  extensively  and  ef 
fectively  in  the  fur  trade  of  the  Pacific,  were  the  Russians. 
Instead  of  making  casual  voyages,  in  transient  ships,  they 
established  regular  trading  houses  in  the  high  latitudes,  along 
the  northwest  coast  of  America,  and  upon  the  chain  of  the 
Aleutian  Islands  between  Kamtschatka  and  the  promontory  of 
Alaska. 

To  promote  and  protect  these  enterprises  a  company  was  in 
corporated  by  the  Russian  government  with  exclusive  privi 
leges,  and  a  capital  of  two  hundred  and  sixty  thousand  pounds 
sterling;  and  the  sovereignty  of  that  part  of  the  American 
continent  along  the  coast  of  which  the  posts  had  been  estab 
lished,  was  claimed  by  the  Russian  crown,  on  the  plea  that  the 
land  had  been  discovered  and  occupied  by  its  subjects. 

As  China  was  the  grand  mart  for  the  furs  collected  in  these 
quarters,  the  Russians  had  the  advantage  over  their  competi 
tors  in  the  trade.  The  latter  had  to  take  their  peltries  to 
Canton,  which,  however,  was  a  mere  receiving  mart,  from 
whence  they  had  to  be  distributed  over  the  interior  of  the 
empire  and  sent  to  the  northern  parts,  where  there  was  the 
chief  consumption.  The  Russians,  on  the  contrary,  carried 


32  ASTORIA. 

their  furs,  by  a  shorter  voyage,  directly  to  the  northern  parts 
of  the  Chinese  empire ;  thus  being  able  to  afford  them  in  the 
market  without  the  additional  cost  of  internal  transportation. 

"We  come  now  to  the  immediate  field  of  operation  of  the 
great  enterprise  we  have  undertaken  to  illustrate. 

Among  the  American  ships  which  traded  along  the  north 
west  coast  in  1792,  was  the  Columbia,  Captain  Gray,  of  Boston. 
In  the  course  of  her  voyage  she  discovered  the  mouth  of  a 
large  river  in  lat.  46°  19'  north.  Entering  it  with  some  diffi 
culty,  on  account  of  sand-bars  and  breakers,  she  came  to 
anchor  in  a  spacious  bay.  A  boat  was  well  manned,  and  sent 
on  shore  to  a  village  on  the  beach,  but  all  the  inhabitants  fled 
excepting  the  aged  and  infirm.  The  kind  manner  in  which 
these  were  treated,  and  the  presents  given  to  them,  gradually 
lured  back  the  others,  and  a  friendly  intercourse  took  place. 
They  had  never  seen  a  ship  or  a  white  man.  When  they  had 
first  descried  the  Columbia,  they  had  supposed  it  a  floating 
island ;  then  some  monster  of  the  deep ;  but  when  they  saw  the 
boat  putting  for  shore  with  human  beings  on  board,  they  con 
sidered  them  cannibals  sent  by  the  Great  Spirit  to  ravage  the 
country  and  devour  the  inhabitants.  Captain  Gray  did  not 
ascend  the  river  farther  than  the  bay  in  question,  which  con 
tinues  to  bear  his  name.  After  putting  to  sea  he  fell  in  with 
the  celebrated  discoverer,  Vancouver,  and  informed  him  of  his 
discovery,  furnishing  him  with  a  chart  which  he  had  made  of 
the  river.  Vancouver  visited  the  river,  and  his  lieutenant, 
Broughton,  explored  it  by  the  aid  of  Captain  Gray's  chart ;  as 
cending  it  upward  of  one  hundred  miles,  until  within  view  of 
a  snowy  mountain,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Mount  Hood, 
which  it  still  retains. 

The  existence  of  this  river,  however,  was  known  long  before 
the  visits  of  Gray  and  Vancouver,  but  the  information  con 
cerning  it  was  vague  and  indefinite,  being  gathered  from  the 
reports  of  the  Indians.  It  was  spoken  of  by  travellers  as  the 
Oregon,  and  as  the  great  river  of  the  west.  A  Spanish  ship  is 
said  to  have  been  wrecked  at  the  mouth,  several  of  the  crew 
of  which  lived  for  some  time  among  the  natives.  The  Co 
lumbia,  however,  is  believed  to  be  the  first  ship  that  made  a 
regular  discovery  and  anchored  within  its  waters,  and  it  has 
since  generally  borne  the  name  of  that  vessel. 

As  early  as  1763,  shortly  after  the  acquisition  of  the  Canadas 
by  Great  Britain,  Captain  Jonathan  Carver,  who  had  been  in 
the  British  provincial  army,  projected  a  journey  across  the 


ASTORIA,  83 

continent  between  the  forty-third  and  forty-sixth  degrees  of 
northern  latitude,  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  His  ob 
jects  were  to  ascertain  the  breadth  of  the  continent  at  its 
broadest  part,  and  to  determine  on  some  place  on  the  shores  of 
the  Pacific  where  government  might  establish  a  post  to  facili 
tate  the  discovery  of  a  northwest  passage,  or  a  communication 
between  Hudson's  Bay  and  the"  Pacific  Ocean.  This  place  he 
presumed  would  be  somewhere  about  the  Straits  of  Annian,  at 
which  point  he  supposed  the  Oregon  disembogued  itself.  It 
was  his  opinion  also  that  a  settlement  on  this  extremity  of 
America  would  disclose  new  sources  of  trade,  promote  many 
useful  discoveries,  and  open  a  more  direct  communication  with 
China  and  the  English  settlements  in  the  East  Indies,  than  that 
by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  or  the  Straits  of  Magellan.*  This 
enterprising  and  intrepid  traveller  was  twice  baffled  in  indi 
vidual  efforts  to  accomplish  his  great  journey.  In  1774  he  was 
joined  in  the  scheme  by  Richard  Whit  worth,  a  member  of 
Parliament,  and  a  man  of  wealth.  Their  enterprise  was  pro 
jected  on  a  broad  and  bold  plan.  They  were  to  take  with  them 
fifty  or  sixty  men,  artificers  and  mariners.  With  these  they 
were  to  make  their  way  up  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Missouri, 
explore  the  mountains  for  the  source  of  the  Oregon,  or  river  of 
the  west,  and  sail  down  that  river  to  its  supposed  exit  near 
the  Straits  of  Annian.  Here  they  were  to  erect  a  fort,  and 
build  the  vessels  necessary  to  carry  their  discoveries  by  sea 
into  effect.  Their  plan  had  the  sanction  of  the  British  govern 
ment,  and  grants  and  other  requisites  were  nearly  completed 
when  the  breaking  out  of  the  American  Revolution  once  more 
defeated  the  undertaking^ 

The  expedition  of  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  in  1793,  across 
the  continent  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  which  he  reached  in  lat.  52° 
20'  48",  again  suggested  the  possibility  of  linking  together  the 
trade  of  both  sides  of  the  continent.  In  lat.  52°  30'  he  had  de 
scended  a  river  for  some  distance  which  flowed  toward  the 
south,  and  was  called  by  the  natives  Tacoutche  Tesse,  and 
which  he  erroneously  supposed  to  be  the  Columbia.  It 
was  afterward  ascertained  that  it  emptied  itself  in  lat.  49°, 
whereas  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  is  about  three  degrees  far 
ther  south. 

When  Mackenzie  some  years  subsequently  published  an  ac- 

*  Carver's  Travels,  Introd.  b.  iii.    Philad.  1T96. 
t  Ibid.  p.  360.    Philad.  1796. 


34  ASTORIA. 

count  of  his  expeditions,  he  suggested  the  policy  of  opening 
an  intercourse  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  and 
forming  regular  establishments  through  the  interior  and  at 
both  extremes,  as  well  as  along  the  coasts  and  islands.  By 
this  means,  he  observed,  the  entire  command  of  the  fur  trade 
of  North  America  might  be  obtained  from  lat.  48°  north  to  the 
pole,  excepting  that  portion  held  by  the  Russians,  for  as  to  the 
American  adventurers  who  had  hitherto  enjoyed  the  traffic 
along  the  northwest  coast,  they  would  instantly  disappear,  he 
added,  before  a  well  regulated  trade. 

A  scheme  of  this  kind,  however,  was  too  vast  and  hazardous 
for  individual  enterprise ;  it  could  only  be  undertaken  by  a 
company  under  the  sanction  and  protection  of  a  government ; 
and  as  there  might  be  a  clashing  of  claims  between  the  Hud 
son's  Bay  and  Northwest  Company,  the  one  holding  by  right 
of  charter,  the  other  by  right  of  possession,  he  proposed  that 
the  two  companies  should  coalesce  in  this  great  undertaking. 
The  long-cherished  jealousies  of  these  two  companies,  however, 
were  too  deep  and  strong  to  allow  them  to  listen  to  such 
counsel. 

In  the  mean  time  the  attention  of  the  American  government 
was  attracted  to  the  subject,  and  the  memorable  expedition 
under  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke  fitted  out.  These  gentlemen, 
in  1804,  accomplished  the  enterprise  which  had  been  projected 
by  Carver  and  Whitworth  in  1774.  They  ascended  the  Mis 
souri,  passed  through  the  stupendous  gates  of  the  Eocky  Moun 
tains,  hitherto  unknown  to  white  men ;  discovered  and  explored 
the  upper  waters  of  the  Columbia,  and  followed  that  river 
down  to  its  mouth,  where  their  countryman,  Gray,  had  an 
chored  about  twelve  years  previously.  Here  they  passed  the 
winter,  and  returned  across  the  mountains  in  the  following 
spring.  The  reports  published  by  them  of  their  expedition 
demonstrated  the  practicability  of  establishing  a  line  of  com 
munication  across  the  continent,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean. 

It  was  then  that  the  idea  presented  itself  to  the  mind  of  Mr. 
Astor,  of  grasping  with  his  individual  hand  this  great  enter 
prise,  which  for  years  had  been  dubiously  yet  desirously  con 
templated  by  powerful  associations  and  maternal  governments. 
For  some  time  he  revolved  the  idea  in  his  mind,  gradually  ex 
tending  and  maturing  his  plans  as  his  means  of  executing  them 
augmented.  The  main  feature  of  his  scheme  was  to  establish 
a  line  of  trading  posts  along  the  Missouri  and  the  Columbia,  to 


ASTORIA.  35 

the  mouth  of  the  latter,  where  was  to  be  founded  the  chief 
trading  house  or  mart.  Inferior  posts  would  be  established  in 
the  interior,  and  on  all  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Columbia, 
to  trade  with  the  Indians ;  these  posts  would  draw  their  sup 
plies  from  the  main  establishment,  and  bring  to  it  the  peltries 
they  collected.  Coasting  craft  would  be  built  and  fitted  out, 
also  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  to  trade,  at  favorable  sea 
sons,  all  along  the  northwest  coast,  and  return,  with  the  pro 
ceeds  of  their  voyages,  to  this  place  of  deposit.  Thus  all  the 
Indian  trade,  both  of  the  interior  and  the  coast,  would  converge 
to  this  point,  and  thence  derive  its  sustenance. 

A  ship  was  to  be  sent  annually  from  New  York  to  this  main 
establishment  with  reinforcements  and  supplies,  and  with 
merchandise  suited  to  the  trade.  It  would  take  on  board  the 
furs  collected  during  the  preceding  year,  carry  them  to  Canton, 
invest  the  proceeds  in  the  rich  merchandise  of  China,  and  re 
turn  thus  freighted  to  New  York. 

As,  in  extending  the  American  trade  along  the  coast  to  the 
northward,  it  might  be  brought  into  the  vicinity  of  the  Russian 
Fur  Company,  and  produce  a  hostile  rivalry,  it  was  part  of  the 
plan  of  Mr.  Astor  to  conciliate  the  good-will  of  that  company  by 
the  most  amicable  and  beneficial  arrangements.  The  Russian 
establishment  was  chiefly  dependent  for  its  supplies  upon  tran 
sient  trading  vessels  from  the  United  States.  These  vessels, 
however,  were  often  of  more  harm  than  advantage.  Being 
owned  by  private  adventurers  or  casual  voyagers,  who  cared 
only  for  present  profit,  and  had  no  interest  in  the  permanent 
prosperity  of  the  trade,  they  were  reckless  in  their  dealings 
with  the  natives,  and  made  no  scruple  of  supplying  them  with 
firearms.  In  this  way  several  fierce  tribes  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Russian  posts,  or  within  the  range  of  their  trading  excur 
sions,  were  furnished  with  deadly  means  of  warfare,  and  ren 
dered  troublesome  and  dangerous  neighbors. 

The  Russian  government  had  made  representations  to  that  of 
the  United  States  of  these  malpractices  on  the  part  of  its  citi 
zens,  and  urged  to  have  this  traffic  in  arms  prohibited ;  but,  as 
it  did  not  infringe  any  municipal  law,  our  government  could 
not  interfere.  Yet  still  it  regarded,  with  solicitude,  a  traffic 
which,  if  persisted  in,  might  give  offence  to  Russia,  at  that  time 
almost  the  only  power  friendly  to  us.  In  this  dilemma  the 
government  had  applied  to  Mr.  Astor,  as  one  conversant  in  this 
branch  of  trade,  for  information  that  might  point  out  a  way  to 
remedy  the  evil.  This  circumstance  had  suggested  to  him  the 


36  AST01UA. 

idea  of  supplying  the  Eussian  establishment  regularly  by 
means  of  the  annual  ship  that  should  visit  the  settlement  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  (or  Oregon) ;  by  this  means  the  casual 
trading  vessels  would  be  excluded  from  those  parts  of  the 
coast  where  their  malpractices  were  so  injurious  to  the  Rus 
sians. 

Such  is  a  brief  outline  of  the  enterprise  projected  by  Mr. 
Astor,  but  which  continually  expanded  in  his  mind.  Indeed  it 
is  due  to  him  to  say  that  he  was  not  actuated  by  mere  motives 
of  individual  profit.  He  was  already  wealthy  beyond  the 
ordinary  desires  of  man,  but  he  now  aspired  to  that  Honorable 
fame  which  is  awarded  to  men  of  similar  scope  of  mind,  who 
by  their  great  commercial  enterprises  have  enriched  nations, 
peopled  wildernesses,  and  extended  the  bounds  of  empire.  He 
considered  his  projected  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  as  the  emporium  to  an  immense  commerce ;  as  a  col 
ony  that  would  form  the  germ  of  a  wide  civilization;  that 
would,  in  fact,  carry  the  American  population  across  the 
Rocky  Mountains  and  spread  it  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific, 
as  it  already  animated  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic. 

As  Mr.  Astor,  by  the  magnitude  of  his  commercial  and 
financial  relations,  and  the  vigor  and  scope  of  his  self-taught 
mind,  had  elevated  himself  into  the  consideration  of  govern 
ment  and  the  communion  and  correspondence  with  leading 
statesmen,  he,  at  an  early  period,  communicated  his  schemes 
to  President  Jefferson,  soliciting  the  countenance  of  govern 
ment.  How  highly  they  were  esteemed  by  that  eminent  man, 
we  may  judge  by  the  following  passage,  written  by  him  some 
time  afterward  to  Mr.  Astor. 

"  I  remember  well  having  invited  your  proposition  on  this 
subject,*  and  encouraged  it  with  the  assurance  of  every 
facility  and  protection  which  the  government  could  properly 
afford.  I  considered,  as  a  great  public  acquisition,  the  com 
mencement  of  a  settlement  on  that  point  of  the  western  coast 
of  America,  and  looked  forward  with  gratification  to  the  time 
when  its  descendants  should  have  spread  themselves  through 
the  whole  length  of  that  coast,  covering  it  with  free  and 
independent  Americans,  unconnected  with  us  but  by  the  ties 

*  On  this  point  Mr.  Jefferson's  memory  was  in  error.  The  proposition  alluded  to 
was  the  one,  already  mentioned,  for  the  establishment  of  an  American  Fur  Com 
pany  in  the  Atlantic  States.  The  great  enterprise  beyond  the  mountains,  that  was 
to  sweep  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  originated  in  the  mind  of  Mr.  Astor,  and  was 
proposed  by  him  to  the  government. 


ASTORIA.  37 

of  blood  and  interest,  and  enjoying  like  us  the  rights  of  self- 
government.  " 

The  cabinet  joined  with  Jefferson  in  warm  approbation  of 
the  plan,  and  held  out  assurance  of  every  protection  that 
could,  consistently  with  general  policy,  be  afforded. 

Mr,  Astor  now  prepared  to  carry  his  scheme  into  prompt 
execution.  He  had  some  competition,  however,  to  apprehend 
and  guard  against.  The  Northwest  Company,  acting  feebly 
and  partially  upon  the  suggestions  of  its  former  agent,  Sir 
Alexander  Mackenzie,  had  pushed  one  or  two  advanced  trad 
ing  posts  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  into  a  tract  of  country 
visited  by  that  enterprising  traveller,  and  since  named  New 
Caledonia.  This  tra*ct  lay  about  two  degrees  north  of  the 
Columbia,  and  intervened  between  the  territories  of  the 
United  States  and  those  of  Russia.  Its  length  was  about 
five  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and  its  breadth,  from  the  moun 
tains  to  the  Pacific,  from  three  hundred  to  three  hundred  and 
fifty  geographical  miles. 

Should  the  Northwest  Company  persist  in  extending  their 
trade  in  that  quarter,  their  competition  might  be  of  serious 
detriment  to  the  plans  of  Mr.  Astor.  It  is  true  they  would 
contend  with  him  to  a  vast  disadvantage,  from  the  checks 
and  restrictions  to  which  they  were  subjected.  They  were 
straitened  on  one  side  by  the  rivalry  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company ;  then  they  had  no  good  post  on  the  Pacific  where 
they  could  receive  supplies  by  sea  for  their  establishments 
beyond  the  mountains ;  nor,  if  they  had  one,  could  they  ship 
their  furs  thence  to  China,  that  great  mart  for  peltries;  the 
Chinese  trade  being  comprised  in  the  monopoly  of  the  East 
India  Company.  Their  posts  beyond  the  mountains  had  to  be 
supplied  in  yearly  expeditions,  like  caravans,  from  Montreal, 
and  the  furs  conveyed  back  in  the  same  way,  by  long,  pre 
carious,  and  expensive  routes,  across  the  continent.  Mr. 
Astor,  on  the  contrary,  would  be  able  to  supply  his  pro 
posed  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  by  sea, 
and  to  ship  the  furs  collected  there  directly  to  China,  so  as 
to  undersell  the  Northwest  Company  in  the  great  Chinese 
market. 

Still,  the  competition  of  two  rival  companies  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  could  not  but  prove  detrimental  to  both, 
and  fraught  with  those  evils,  both  to  the  trade  and  to  the 
Indians,  that  had  attended  similar  rivalries  in  the  Canadas. 
To  prevent  any  contest  of  the  kind,  therefore,  he  made  known 


38  ASTORIA. 

his  plan  to  the  agents  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  pro* 
posed  to  interest  them,  to  the  extent  of  one  third,  in  the  trade 
thus  to  be  opened.  Some  correspondence  and  negotiation 
ensued.  The  company  were  aware  of  the  advantages  which 
would  be  possessed  by  Mr.  Astor  should  he  be  able  to  carry  his 
scheme  into  effect;  but  they  anticipated  a  monopoly  of  the 
trade  beyond  the  mountains  by  their  establishments  in  New 
Caledonia,  and  were  loath  to  share  it  with  an  individual  who 
had  already  proved  a  formidable  competitor  in  the  Atlantic 
trade.  They  hoped,  too,  by  a  timely  move,  to  secure  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  before  Mr.  Astor  would  be  able  to 
put  his  plans  into  operation;  and,  that  key  to  the  internal 
trade  once  in  their  possession,  the  whole  country  would  be 
at  their  command.  After  some  negotiation  and  delay,  there 
fore,  they  declined  the  proposition  that  had  been  made  to 
them,  but  subsequently  dispatched  a  party  for  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia,  to  establish  a  post  there  before  any  expedition 
sent  out  by  Mr.  Astor  might  arrive. 

In  the  mean  time  Mr.  Astor  finding  his  overtures  rejected, 
proceeded  fearlessly  to  execute  his  enterprise  in  face  of  the 
whole  power  of  the  Northwest  Company.  His  main  establish 
ment  once  planted  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  he  looked 
with  confidence  to  ultimate  success.  Being  able  to  reinforce 
and  supply  it  amply  by  sea,  he  would  push  his  interior  posts 
in  every  direction  up  the  rivers  and  along  the  coast ;  supply 
ing  the  natives  at  a  lower  rate,  and  thus  gradually  obliging 
the  Northwest  Company  to  give  up  the  competition,  relinquish 
New  Caledonia,  and  retire  to  the  other  side  of  the  mountains. 
He  would  then  have  possession  of  the  trade,  not  merely  of  the 
Columbia  and  its  tributaries,  but  of  the  regions  farther  north, 
quite  to  the  Russian  possessions.  Such  was  a  part  of  his  bril 
liant  and  comprehensive  plan. 

He  now  proceeded,  with  all  diligence,  to  procure  proper 
agents  and  coadjutors,  habituated  to  the  Indian  trade  and  to 
the  life  of  the  wilderness.  Among  the  clerks  of  the  Northwest 
Company  were  several  of  great  capacity  and  experience,  who 
had  served  out  their  probationary  terms,  but  who,  either 
through  lack  of  interest  and  influence,  or  a  want  of  vacancies, 
had  not  been  promoted.  They  were  consequently  much  dis 
satisfied,  and  ready  for  any  employment  in  which  their  talents 
and  acquirements  might  be  turned  to  better  account. 

Mr.  Astor  made  his  overtures  to  several  of  these  persons, 
and  three  cf  them  entered  into  his  views.  One  of  these,  Mr. 


ASTORIA.  39 

Alexander  M'Kay,  had  accompanied  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie 
in  both  of  his  expeditions  to  the  northwest  coast  of  America  in 
1789  and  1793.  The  other  two  were  Duncan  M'Dougal  and 
Donald  M'Keiizie.  To  these  were  subsequently  added  Mr. 
Wilson  Price  Hunt,  of  New  Jersey.  As  this  gentleman  was 
a  native  born  citizen  of  the  United  States,  a  person  of  great 
probity  and  worth,  he  was  selected  by  Mr.  Astor  to  be  his  chief 
agent,  and  to  represent  him  in  the  contemplated  establishment. 

On  the  23d  of  June,  1810,  articles  of  agreement  were  entered 
into  between  Mr.  Astor  and  those  four  gentlemen,  acting  for 
themselves  and  for  the  several  persons  who  had  already  agreed 
to  become,  or  should  thereafter  become  associated  under  the 
firm  of  "The  Pacific  Fur  Company." 

According  to  these  articles  Mr.  Astor  was  to  be  at  the  head 
of  the  company,  and  to  manage  its  affairs  in  New  York.  He 
was  to  furnish  vessels,  goods,  provisions,  arms,  ammunition, 
and  all  other  requisites  for  the  enterprise  at  first  cost  and 
charges,  provided  that  they  did  not,  at  any  time,  involve  an 
advance  of  more  than  four  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

The  stock  of  the  company  was  to  be  divided  into  a  hundred 
equal  shares,  with  the  profits  accruing  thereon.  Fifty  shares 
were  to  be  at  the  disposition  of  Mr.  Astor,  and  the  other  fifty 
to  be  divided  among  the  partners  and  their  associates. 

Mr.  Astor  was  to  have  the  privilege  of  introducing  other  per 
sons  into  the  connection  as  partners,  two  of  whom,  at  least, 
should  be  conversant  with  the  Indian  trade,  and  none  of  them 
entitled  to  more  than  three  shares. 

A  general  meeting  of  the  company  was  to  be  held  annually 
at  Columbia  Elver,  for  the  investigation  and  regulation  of  its 
affairs;  at  which  absent  members  might  be  represented,  and 
might  vote  by  proxy  under  certain  specified  conditions. 

The  association,  if  successful,  was  to  continue  for  twenty 
years ;  but  the  parties  had  full  power  to  abandon  and  dissolve 
it  within  the  first  five  years,  should  it  be  found  unprofitable. 
For  this  term  Mr.  Astor  covenanted  to  bear  all  the  loss  that 
might  be  incurred ;  after  which  it  was  to  be  borne  by  all  the 
partners,  in  proportion  to  their  respective  shares. 

The  parties  of  the  second  part  were  to  execute  faithfully  such 
duties  as  might  be  assigned  to  them  by  a  majority  of  the  com 
pany  on  the  northwest  coast,  and  to  repair  to  such  place  or 
places  as  the  majority  might  direct. 

An  agent,  appointed  for  the  term  of  five  years,  was  to  reside 
at  the  principal  establishment  on  the  northwest  coast,  and 


40  ASTORIA. 

Wilson  Price  Hunt  was  the  one  chosen  for  the  first  term. 
Should  the  interests  of  the  concern  at  any  time  require  his  ab 
sence,  a  person  was  to  be  appointed,  in  general  meeting,  to 
take  his  place. 

Such  were  the  leading  conditions  of  this  association;  we 
shall  now  proceed  to  relate  the  various  hardy  and  eventful 
expeditions,  by  sea  and  land,  to  which  it  gave  rise. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

IN  prosecuting  his  great  scheme  of  commerce  and  coloniza 
tion,  two  expeditions  were  devised  by  Mr.  Astor,  one  by  sea, 
the  other  by  land.  The  former  was  to  carry  out  the  people, 
stores,  ammunition,  and  merchandise  requisite  for  establishing 
a  fortified  trading  post  at  the  mouth  of  Columbia  River.  The 
latter,  conducted  by  Mr.  Hunt,  was  to  proceed  up  the  Missouri, 
and  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  the  same  point ;  exploring 
a  line  of  communication  across  the  continent,  and  noting  the 
places  where  interior  trading  posts  might  be  established.  The 
expedition  by  sea  is  the  one  which  comes  first  under  considera 
tion. 

A  fine  ship  was  provided,  called  the  Tonquin,  of  two  hundred 
and  ninety  tons  burden,  mounting  ten  guns,  with  a  crew  of 
twenty  men.  She  carried  an  assortment  of  merchandise  for 
trading  with  the  natives  of  the  seaboard  and  of  the  interior, 
together  with  the  frame  of  a  schooner,  to  be  employed  in  the 
coasting  trade.  Seeds  also  were  provided  for  the  cultivation 
of  the  soil,  and  nothing  was  neglected  for  the  necessary  supply 
of  the  establishment.  The  command  of  the  ship  was  intrusted 
to  Jonathan  Thorn,  of  New  York,  a  lieutenant  in  the  United 
States  Navy,  on  leave  of  absence.  He  was  a  man  of  courage 
and  firmness  who  had  distinguished  himself  in  our  Tripolitan 
war,  and,  from  being  accustomed  to  naval  discipline,  was  con 
sidered  by  Mr.  Astor  as  well  fitted  to  take  charge  of  an  expe 
dition  of  the  kind.  Four  of  the  partners  were  to  embark  in 
the  ship,  namely,  Messrs.  M'Kay,  M'Dougal,  David  Stuart,  and 
his  nephew,  Robert  Stuart.  Mr.  M'Dougal  was  empowered  by 
Mr.  Astor  to  act  as  his  proxy,  in  the  absence  of  Mr.  Hunt,  to 
vote  for  him  and  in  his  name,  on  any  question  that  might 
come  before  any  meeting  of  the  persons  interested  in  the  voy 
age. 


ASTORIA.  41 

Besides  the  partners,  there  were  twelve  clerks  to  go  out  in 
the  ship,  several  of  them  natives  of  Canada,  who  had  some 
experience  in  Indian  trade.  They  were  bound  to  the  service 
of  the  company  for  five  years,  at  the  rate  of  one  hundred  dol 
lars  a  year,  payable  at  the  expiration  of  the  term,  and  an  an- 
nual  equipment  of  clothing  to  the  amount  of  forty  dollars.  In 
case  of  ill  conduct,  they  were  liable  to  forfeit  their  wages  and 
be  dismissed;  but,  should  they  acquit  themselves  well,  the 
confident  expectation  was  held  out  to  them  of  promotion,  and 
partnership.  Their  interests  were  thus,  to  some  extent,  iden 
tified  with  those  of  the  company. 

Several  artisans  were  likewise  to  sail  in  the  ship,  for  the 
supply  of  the  colony;  but  the  most  peculiar  and  characteristic 
part  of  this  motley  embarkation  consisted  of  thirteen  Canadian 
"  voyageurs,"  who  had  enlisted  for  five  years.  As  this  class 
of  functionaries  will  continually  recur  in  the  course  of  the  fol 
lowing  narrations,  and  as  they  form  one  of  those  distinct  and 
strongly  marked  castes  or  orders  of  people  springing  up  in  this 
vast  continent  out  of  geographical  circumstances,  or  the  varied 
pursuits,  habitudes,  and  origins  of  its  population,  we  shall 
sketch  a  few  of  their  characteristics  for  the  information  of  the 
reader. 

The  ''voyageurs"  form  a  kind  of  confraternity  in  the  Cana- 
das,  like  the  arrieros,  or  carriers  of  Spain,  and,  like  them,  are 
employed  in  long  internal  expeditions  of  travel  and  traffic: 
with  this  difference,  that  the  arrieros  travel  by  land,  the  voy 
ageurs  by  water ;  the  former  with  mules  and  horses,  the  latter 
with  batteaux  and  canoes.  The  voyageurs  may  be  said  to  have 
sprung  up  out  of  the  fur  trade,  having  originally  been  employed 
by  the  early  French  merchants  in  their  trading  expeditions 
through  the  labyrinth  of  rivers  and  lakes  of  the  boundless  in 
terior.  They  were  coeval  with  the  courcurs  des  bois,  or  ran 
gers  of  the  woods,  already  noticed,  and,  like  them,  in  the  in 
tervals  of  their  long,  arduous,  and  laborious  expeditions,  were 
prone  to  pass  their  time  in  idleness  and  revelry  about  the  trad 
ing  posts  or  settlements,  squandering  their  hard  earnings  in 
heedless  conviviality,  and  rivalling  their  neighbors,  the  Indians, 
in  indolent  indulgence  and  an  imprudent  disregard  of  the  mor 
row. 

When  Canada  passed  under  British  domination,  and  the  old 
French  trading  houses  were  broken  up,  the  voyageurs,  like  the 
coureurs  des  bois,  were  for  a  time  disheartened  and  disconso 
late,  and  with  difficulty  could  reconcile  themselves  to  the  ser- 


42  ASTORIA. 

vice  of  the  new-comers,  so  different  in  habits,  manners,  and 
language  from  their  former  employers.  By  degrees,  however, 
they  became  accustomed  to  the  change,  and  at  length  came  to 
consider  the  British  fur  traders,  and  especially  the  members  of 
the  Northwest  Company,  as  the  legitimate  lords  of  creation. 

The  dress  of  these  people  is  generally  half  civilized,  half 
savage.  They  wear  a  capot  or  surcoat,  made  of  a  blanket,  a 
striped  cotton  shirt,  cloth  trowsers,  or  leathern  leggins,  moc- 
casons  of  deerskin,  and  a  belt  of  variegated  worsted,  from 
which  are  suspended  the  knife,  tobacco-pouch,  and  other  im 
plements.  Their  language  is  of  the  same  piebald  character, 
being  a  French  patois,  embroidered  with  Indian  and  English 
words  and  phrases. 

The  lives  of  the  voyageurs  are  passed  in  wild  and  extensive 
rovings,  in  the  service  of  individuals,  but  more  especially  of 
the  fur  traders.  They  are  generally  of  French  descent,  and 
inherit  much  of  the  gayety  and  lightness  of  heart  of  their  an 
cestors,  being  full  of  anecdote  and  song,  and  ever  ready  for 
the  dance.  They  inherit,  too,  a  fund  of  civility  and  com 
plaisance  ;  and  instead  of  that  hardness  and  grossness  which 
men  in  laborious  life  are  apt  to  indulge  toward  each  other, 
they  are  mutually  obliging  and  accommodating ;  interchanging 
kind  offices,  yielding  each  other  assistance  and  comfort  in 
every  emergency,  and  using  the  familiar  appellations  of 
"  cousin"  and  "brother"  when  there  is  in  fact  no  relationship. 
Their  natural  good- will  is  probably  heightened  by  a  com 
munity  of  adventure  and  hardship  in  their  precarious  and 
wandering  life. 

No  men  are  more  submissive  to  their  leaders  and  employers, 
more  capable  of  enduring  hardship,  or  more  good-humored 
under  privations.  Never  are  they  so  happy  as  when  on  long 
and  rough  expeditions,  toiling  up  rivers  or  coasting  lakes; 
encamping  at  night  on  the  borders,  gossiping  round  their  fires, 
and  bivouacking  in  the  open  air.  They  are  dexterous  boat 
men,  vigorous  and  adroit  with  the  oar  and  paddle,  and  will 
row  from  morning  until  night  without  a  murmur.  The  steers 
man  often  sings  an  old  traditionary  French  song,  with  some 
regular  burden  in  which  they  all  join,  keeping  time  with  their 
oars ;  if  at  any  time  they  flag  in  spirits  or  relax  in  exertion,  it 
is  but  necessary  to  strike  up  a  song  of  the  kind  to  put  them  all 
in  fresh  spirits  and  activity.  The  Canadian  waters  are  vocal 
with  these  little  French  chansons,  that  have  been  echoed  from 
mouth  to  mouth  and  transmitted  from  father  to  son,  from  the 


ASTORIA.  43 

earliest  days  of  the  colony ;  and  it  has  a  pleasing  effect,  in  a 
still  golden  summer  evening,  to  see  a  batteau  gliding  across 
the  bosom  of  a  lake  and  dipping  its  oars  to  the  cadence  of 
these  qnaint  old  ditties,  or  sweeping  along  in  full  chorus,  on  a 
bright  sunny  morning,  down  the  transparent  current  of  one  of 
the  Canada  rivers. 

But  we  are  talking  of  things  that  are  fast  fading  away !  The 
march  of  mechanical  invention  is  driving  every  thing  poetical 
before  it.  The  steamboats,  which  are  fast  dispelling  the  wild- 
ness  and  romance  of  our  lakes  and  rivers,  and  aiding  to  sub 
due  the  world  into  commonplace,  are  proving  as  fatal  to  the 
race  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs  as  they  have  been  to  that  of 
the  boatmen  of  the  Mississippi.  Their  glory  is  departed.  They 
are  no  longer  the  lords  of  our  internal  seas  and  the  great  navi 
gators  of  the  wilderness.  Some  of  them  may  still  occasionally 
be  seen  coasting  the  lower  lakes  with  their  frail  barks,  and 
pitching  their  camps  and  lighting  their  fires  upon  the  shores ; 
but  their  range  is  fast  contracting  to  those  remote  waters  and 
shallow  and  obstructed  rivers  unvisited  by  the  steamboat.  In 
the  course  of  years  they  will  gradually  disappear ;  their  songs 
will  die  away  like  the  echoes  they  once  awakened,  and  the 
Canadian  vovageurs  will  become  a  forgotten  race,  or  remem 
bered,  like  their  associates,  the  Indians,  among  the  poetical 
images  of  past  times,  and  as  themes  for  local  and  romantic 
associations. 

An  yistance  of  the  buoyant  temperament  and  the  profes 
sional  pride  of  these  people  was  furnished  in  the  gay  and  brag 
gart  style  in  which  they  arrived  at  New  York  to  join  the 
enterprise.  They  were  determined  to  regale  and  astonish  the 
people  of  the  "States"  with  the  sight  of  a  Canadian  boat  and  a 
Canadian  crew.  They  accordingly  fitted  up  a  large  but  light 
bark  canoe,  such  as  is  used  in  the  fur  trade;  transported  it  in 
a  wagon  from  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  shores  of 
Lake  Cham  plain;  traversed  the  lake  in  it,  from  end  to  end; 
hoisted  it  again  in  a  wagon  and  wheeled  it  off  to  Lansingburgh, 
and  there  launched  it  upon  the  waters  of  the  Hudson.  Down 
this  river  they  plied  their  course  merrily  on  a  still  summer's 
day,  making  its  banks  resound  for  the  first  time  with  their  old 
French  boat  songs ;  passing  by  the  villages  with  whoop  and 
halloo,  so  as  to  make  the  honest  Dutch  farmers  mistake  them 
for  a  crew  of  savages.  In  this  way  they  swept,  in  full  song, 
and  with  regular  flourish  of  the  paddle,  round  New  York,  in  a 
still  summer  evening,  to  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  its  in- 


44  ASTORIA. 

habitants,  who  had  never  before  witnessed  on  their  waters  a 
nautical  apparition  of  the  kind. 

Such  was  the  variegatsd  band  of  adventurers  about  to  em 
bark  in  the  Tonquin  on  this  arduous  and  doubtful  enterprise. 
While  yet  in  port  and  on  dry  land,  in  the  bustle  of  preparation 
and  the  excitement  of  novelty,  all  was  sunshine  and  promise. 
The  Canadians,  especially,  who,  with  their  constitutional 
vivacity,  have  a  considerable  dash  of  the  gascon,  were  buoyant 
and  boastful,  and  great  braggarts  as  to  the  future :  while  all 
those  who  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
and  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade,  plumed  themselves  upon 
their  hardihood  and  their  capacity  to  endure  privations.  If 
Mr.  Astor  ventured  to  hint  at  the  difficulties  they  might  have 
to  encounter,  they  treated  them  with  scorn.  They  were 
"northwesters;"  men  seasoned  to  hardships,  who  cared  for 
neither  wind  nor  weather.  They  could  live  hard,  lie  hard, 
sleep  hard,  eat  dogs !— in  a  word  they  were  ready  to  do  and 
suffer  any  thing  for  the  good  of  the  enterprise.  With  all 
this  profession  of  zeal  and  devotion,  Mr.  Astor  was  not  over 
confident  of  the  stability  and  firm  faith  of  these  mercurial 
beings.  He  had  received  information,  also,  that  an  armed 
brig  from  Halifax,  probably  at  the  instigation  of  the  North 
west  Company,  was  hovering  on  the  coast,  watching  for  the 
Tonquin,  with  the  purpose  of  impressing  the  Canadians  on 
board  of  her,  as  British  subjects,  and  thus  interrupting  the 
voyage.  It  was  a  time  oi  doubt  and  anxiety,  when  the  re 
lations  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  were 
daily  assuming  a  more  precarious  aspect  and  verging  toward 
that  war  which  shortly  ensued.  As  a  precautionary  measure, 
therefore,  he  required  that  the  voyageurs,  as  they  were  about 
to  enter  into  the  service  of  an  American  association,  and  to 
reside  within  the  limits  of  the  Unite  States,  should  take  the 
oaths  of  naturalization  as  American  citizens.  To  this  they 
readily  agreed,  and  shortly  afterward  assured  him  that  they 
had  actually  done  so.  It  was  not  until  after  they  had  sailed 
that  he  discovered  that  they  had  entirely  deceived  him  in  the 
matter. 

The  confidence  of  Mr.  Astor  was  abused  in  another  quarter. 
Two  of  the  partners,  both  of  them  Scotchmen,  and  recently  in 
the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company,  had  misgivings  as  to 
an  enterprise  which  might  clash  with  the  interests  and  estab 
lishments  protected  by  the  British  flag.  They  privately  waited 
upon  the  British  minister,  Mr.  Jackson,  then  in  New  York, 


ASTORIA.  45 

laid  open  to  him  the  whole  scheme  of  Mr.  Astor,  though  in 
trusted  to  them  in  confidence,  and  dependent,  in  a  great  meas 
ure,  upon  secrecy  at  the  outset  for  its  success,  and  inquired 
whether  they,  as  British  subjects,  could  lawfully  engage  in  it. 
The  reply  satisfied  their  scruples,  while  the  information  they 
imparted  excited  the  surprise  and  admiration  of  Mr.  Jackson, 
that  a  private  individual  should  have  conceived  and  set  on  foot 
at  his  own  risk  and  expense  so  great  an  enterprise. 

This  step  on  the  part  of  those  gentlemen  was  not  known  to 
Mr.  Astor  until  some  time  afterward,  or  it  might  have  modified 
the  trust  and  confidence  reposed  in  them. 

To  guard  against  any  interruption  to  the  voyage  by  the 
armed  brig,  said  to  be  off  the  harbor,  Mr.  Astor  applied  to 
Commodore  Rodgers,  at  that  time  commanding  at  New  York, 
to  give  the  Tonquin  safe  convoy  off  the  coast.  The  commodore 
having  received  from  a  high  official  source  assurance  of  the 
deep  interest  which  the  government  took  in  the  enterprise, 
sent  directions  to  Captain  Hull,  at  that  time  cruising  off  the 
harbor  in  the  frigate  Constitution,  to  afford  the  Tonquin  the 
required  protection  when  she  should  put  to  sea. 

Before  the  day  of  embarkation,  Mr.  Astor  addressed  a  letter 
of  instruction  to  the  four  partners  who  were  to  sail  in  the  ship. 
In  this  he  enjoined  them,  in  the  most  earnest  manner,  to  cul 
tivate  harmony  and  unanimity,  and  recommended  that  all 
differences  of  opinions  on  points  connected  with  the  objects 
and  interests  of  the  voyage  should  be  discussed  by  the  whole, 
and  decided  by  a  majority  of  votes.  He,  moreover,  gave  them 
especial  caution  as  to  their  conduct  on  arriving  at  their  des 
tined  port ;  exhorting  them  to  be  careful  to  make  a  favorable 
impression  upon  the  wild  people  among  whom  their  lot  and 
the  fortunes  of  the  enterprise  would  be  cast.  ' '  If  you  find 
them  kind,"  said  he,  "as  I  hope  you  will,  be  so  to  them.  If 
otherwise,  act  with  caution  and  forbearance,  and  convince 
them  that  you  come  as  friends." 

With  the  same  anxious  forethought  he  wrote  a  letter  of  in 
struction  to  Captain  Thorn,  in  which  he  urged  the  strictest 
attention  to  the  health  of  himself  and  his  crew,  and  to  the  pro 
motion  of  good-humor  and  harmony  on  board  his  ship.  ' '  To 
prevent  any  misunderstanding,"  added  he,  "will  require  your 
particular  good  management."  His  letter  closed  with  an  in 
junction  of  wariness  in  his  intercourse  with  the  natives,  a  sub 
ject  on  which  Mr.  Astor  was  justly  sensible  he  could  not  be  too 
earnest.  "I  must  recommend  you,"  said  he,  "to  be  particu- 


46  ASTORIA. 

larly  careful  on  the  coast,  and  not  to  rely  too  much  on  the 
friendly  disposition  of  the  natives.  All  accidents  which  have 
as  yet  happened  there  arose  from  too  much  confidence  in  the 
Indians." 

The  reader  will  bear  these  instructions  in  mind,  as  events 
will  prove  their  wisdom  and  importance,  and  the  disasters 
which  ensued  in  consequence  of  the  neglect  of  them. 


CHAPTER  V. 

ON  the  eighth  of  September,  1810,  the  Tonquin  put  to  sea, 
where  she  was  soon  joined  by  the  frigate  Constitution.  The 
wind  was  fresh  and  fair  from  the  southwest,  and  the  ship  was 
soon  out  of  sight  of  land  and  free  from  the  apprehended  dan 
ger  of  interruption.  The  frigate,  therefore,  gave  her  "God 
speed,"  and  left  her  to  her  course. 

The  harmony  so  earnestly  enjoined  by  Mr.  Astor  on  this 
heterogeneous  crew,  and  which  had  been  so  confidently  prom 
ised  in  the  buoyant  moments  of  preparation,  was  doomed  to 
meet  with  a  check  at  the  very  outset. 

Captain  Thorn  was  an  honest,  straightforward,  but  some 
what  dry  and  dictatorial  commander,  who,  having  been  nur 
tured  in  the  system  and  discipline  of  a  ship  of  war,  and  in  a 
sacred  opinion  of  the  supremacy  of  the  quarter-deck,  was  dis 
posed  to  be  absolute  lord  and  master  on  board  of  his  ship.  He 
appears,  moreover,  to  have  had  no  great  opinion,  from  the 
first,  of  the  persons  embarked  with  him.  He  had  stood  by 
with  surly  contempt  while  they  vaunted  so  bravely  to  Mr. 
Astor  of  all  they  could  do  and  all  they  could  undergo ;  how 
they  could  face  all  weathers,  put  up  with  all  lands  of  fare,  and 
even  eat  dogs  with  a  relish,  when  no  better  food  was  to  be  had. 
He  had  set  them  down  as  a  set  of  landlubbers  and  bragga 
docios,  and  was  disposed  to  treat  them  accordingly.  Mr.  Astor 
was,  in  his  eyes,  his  only  real  employer,  being  the  father  of  the 
enterprise,  who  furnished  all  funds  and  bore  all  losses.  The 
ohhers  were  mere  agents  and  subordinates,  who  lived  at  his 
expense.  He  evidently  had  but  a  narrow  idea  of  the  scope  and 
nature  of  the  enterprise,  limiting  his  views  merely  to  his 
part  of  it;  everything  beyond  the  concerns  of  his  ship  was 
out  of  his  sphere;  and  anything  that  interfered  with  the 
routine  of  his  nautical  duties  put  him  in  a  passion. 


ASTORIA.  47 

The  partners,  on  the  other  hand,  had  been  brought  up  in  the 
service  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  in  a  profound  idea  of 
the  importance,  dignity,  and  authority  of  a  partner.  They 
already  began  to  consider  themselves  on  a  par  with  the 
M'Tavishes,  the  M'Gillivrays,  the  Frobishers,  and  the  other 
magnates  of  the  northwest,  whom  they  had  been  accustomed 
to  look  up  to  as  the  great  ones  of  the  earth ;  and  they  were  a 
little  disposed,  perhaps,  to  wear  their  suddenly-acquired  honors 
with  some  air  of  pretension.  Mr.  Astor,  too,  had  put  them  on 
their  mettle  with  respect  to  the  captain,  describing  him  as  a 
gunpowder  fellow  who  would  command  his  ship  in  fine  style, 
and,  if  there  was  any  fighting  to  do,  would  ' '  blow  all  out  of 
the  water." 

Thus  prepared  to  regard  each  other  with  no  very  cordial 
eye,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  parties  soon  came 
into  collision.  On  the  very  first  night  Captain  Thorn  began 
his  man-of-war  discipline  by  ordering  the  lights  in  the  cabin  to 
be  extinguished  at  eight  o'clock. 

The  pride  of  the  partners  was  immediately  in  arms.  This 
was  an  invasion  of  their  rights  and  dignities  not  to  be  borne. 
They  were  on  board  of  their  own  ship,  and  entitled  to  consult 
their  ease  and  enjoyment.  M'Dougal  was  the  champion  of 
their  cause.  He  was  an  active,  irritable,  fuming,  vainglorious 
little  man,  and  elevated  in  his  own  opinion,  by  being  the  proxy 
of  Mr.  Astor.  A  violent  altercation  ensued,  in  the  course  of 
which  Thorn  threatened  to  put  the  partners  in  irons  should 
they  prove  refractory ;  upon  which  M'Dougal  seized  a  pistol 
and  swore  to  be  the  death  of  the  captain  should  he  ever  offer 
such  an  indignity.  It  was  some  time  before  the  irritated 
parties  could  be  pacified  by  the  more  temperate  bystanders. 

Such  was  the  captain's  outset  with  the  partners.  Nor  did 
the  clerks  stand  much  higher  in  his  good  graces ;  indeed,  he 
seems  to  have  regarded  all  the  landsmen  on  board  his  ship  as 
a  kind  of  live  lumber,  continually  in  the  way.  The  poor  voy- 
ageurs,  too,  continually  irritated  his  spleen  by  their  "lubber 
ly"  and  unseemly  habits,  so  abhorrent  to  one  accustomed  to 
the  cleanliness  of  a  man-of-war.  These  poor  fresh-water  sail 
ors,  so  vainglorious  on  shore,  and  almost  amphibious  when  on 
lakes  and  rivers,  lost  all  heart  and  stomach  the  moment  they 
were  at  sea.  For  days  they  suffered  the  doleful  rigors  and 
retchings  of  sea-sickness,  lurking  below  in  their  berths  in  squa 
lid  state,  or  emerging  now  and  then  like  spectres  from  the 
hatchways,  in  capotes  and  blankets,  with  dirty  nightcaps, 


48  ASTORIA. 

grizzly  beard,  lantern  visage  and  unhappy  eye,  shivering 
about  the  deck,  and  ever  and  anon  crawling  to  the  sides  of 
the  vessel,  and  offering  up  their  tributes  to  the  windward,  to 
the  infinite  annoyance  of  the  captain. 

His  letters  to  Mr.  Astor,  wherein  he  pours  forth  the  bitter 
ness  of  his  soul,  and  his  seamanlike  impatience  of  what  he 
considers  the  ' '  lubberly"  character  and  conduct  of  those 
around  him,  are  before  us,  and  are  amusingly  characteristic. 
The  honest  captain  is  full  of  vexation  on  his  own  account, 
and  solicitude  on  account  of  Mr.  Astor,  whose  property  he 
considers  at  the  mercy  of  a  most  heterogeneous  and  wasteful 
crew. 

As  to  the  clerks,  he  pronounces  them  mere  pretenders,  not 
one  of  whom  had  ever  been  among  the  Indians,  nor  farther  to 
the  northwest  than  Montreal,  nor  of  higher  rank  than  bar 
keeper  of  a  tavern  or  marker  of  a  billiard-table,  excepting  one, 
who  had  been  a  schoolmaster,  and  whom  he  emphatically  sets 
down  for  "  as  foolish  a  pedant  as  ever  lived." 

Then  as  to  the  artisans  and  laborers  who  had  been  brought 
from  Canada  and  shipped  at  such  expense,  the  three  most  re 
spectable,  according  to  the  captain's  account,  were  culprits, 
who  had  fled  from  Canada  on  account  of  their  misdeeds ;  the 
rest  had  figured  in  Montreal  as  draymen,  barbers,  waiters  and 
carriole  drivers,  and  were  the  most  helpless,  worthless  beings 
' '  that  ever  broke  sea-biscuit. " 

It  may  easily  be  imagined  what  a  series  of  misunderstand 
ings  and  cross-purposes  would  be  likely  to  take  place  between 
such  a  crew  and  such  a  commander.  The  captain,  in  his  zeal 
for  the  health  and  cleanliness  of  his  ship,  would  make  sweep 
ing  visitations  to  the  "lubber  nests"  of  the  unlucky  "voy- 
ageurs"  and  their  companions  in  misery,  ferret  them  out  of 
their  berths,  make  them  air  and  wash  themselves  and  their 
accoutrements,  and  oblige  them  to  stir  about  briskly  and  take 
exercise. 

Nor  did  his  disgust  and  vexation  cease  when  all  hands  had 
recovered  from  sea  sickness,  and  become  accustomed  to  the 
ship,  for  now  broke  out  an  alarming  keenness  of  appetite  that 
threatened  havoc  to  the  provisions.  What  especially  irritated 
the  captain  was  the  daintiness  of  some  of  his  cabin  passengers. 
They  were  loud  in  their  complaints  of  the  ship's  fare,  though 
their  table  was  served  with  fresh  pork,  hams,  tongues,  smoked 
beef,  and  puddings.  ' '  When  thwarted  in  their  cravings  for 
delicacies,"  said  he,  "they  would  exclaim  that  it  was  d — d 


ASTORIA.  49 

hard  they  could  not  live  as  they  pleased  upon  their  own  prop 
erty,  being  on  board  of  their  own  ship,  freighted  with  their 
own  merchandise.  And  these,"  added  he,  "are  the  fine  fel 
lows  who  made  such  boast  that  they  could  ' eat  dogs.' " 

In  his  indignation  at  what  he  termed  their  effeminacy,  he 
would  swear  that  he  would  never  take  them  to  sea  again 
"without  having  Fly-market  on  the  forecastle,  Covent-gar- 
den  on  the  poop,  and  a  cool  spring  from  Canada  in  the  main 
top." 

As  they  proceeded  on  their  voyage  and  got  into  the  smooth 
seas  and  pleasant  weather  of  the  tropics,  other  annoyances  oc 
curred  to  vex  the  spirit  of  the  captain.  He  had  been  crossed 
by  the  irritable  mood  of  one  of  the  partners ;  he  was  now  ex 
cessively  annoyed  by  the  good-humor  of  another.  This  was 
the  elder  Stuart,  who  was  an  easy  soul,  and  of  a  social  dispo 
sition.  He  had  seen  life  in  Canada,  and  on  the  coast  o£  Labra 
dor  ;  had  been  a  fur  trader  in  the  former,  and  a  fisherman  on 
the  latter ;  and  in  the  course  of  his  experience  had  made  vari 
ous  expeditions  with  voyageurs.  He  was  accustomed,  there 
fore,  to  the  familiarity  which  prevails  between  that  class  and 
their  superiors,  and  the  gossipings  which  take  place  among 
them  when  seated  round  a  fire  at  their  encampments.  Stuart 
was  never  so  happy  as  when  he  could  seat  himself  on  the  deck 
with  a  number  of  these  men  round  him,  in  camping  style, 
smoke  together,  passing  the  pipe  from  mouth  to  mouth,  after 
the  manner  of  the  Indians,  sing  old  Canadian  boat-songs,  and 
tell  stories  about  their  hardships  and  adventures,  in  the  course 
of  which  he  rivalled  Sinbad  in  his  long  tales  of  the  sea,  about 
his  fishing  exploits  on  the  coast  of  Labrador. 

This  gossiping  familiarity  shocked  the  captain's  notions  of 
rank  and  subordination,  and  nothing  was  so  abhorrent  to  him 
as  the  community  of  pipe  between  master  and  man,  and  their 
mingling  in  chorus  in  the  outlandish  boat-songs. 

Then  there  was  another  whimsical  source  of  annoyance  to 
him.  Some  of  the  young  clerks,  who  wer>3  making  their  first 
voyage,  and  to  whom  everything  was  new  and  strange,  were, 
very  rationally,  in  the  habit  of  taking  notes  and  keeping- 
journals.  This  was  a  sore  abomination  to  the  honest  captain, 
who  held  their  literary  pretensions  in  great  contempt.  "The 
collecting  of  materials  for  long  histories  of  their  voyages  and 
travels,"  said  he,  in  his  letter  to  Mr.  Astor,  " appears  to  en 
gross  most  of  their  attention."  We  can  conceive  what  must 
have  been  the  crusty  impatience  of  the  worthy  navigator, 


50  ASTORIA. 

when,  on  any  trifling  occurrence  in  the  course  of  the  voyage, 
quite  commonplace  in  his  eyes,  he  saw  these  young  landsmen 
running  to  record  it  in  their  journals;  and  what  indignant 
glances  he  must  have  cast  to  right  and  left,  as  he  worried 
about  the  deck,  giving  out  his  orders  for  the  management  of 
the  ship,  surrounded  by  singing,  smoking,  gossiping,  scrib 
bling  groups,  all,  as  he  thought,  intent  upon  the  amusement 
of  the  passing  hour,  instead  of  the  great  purposes  and  interests 
of  the  voyage. 

It  is  possible  the  captain  was  in  some  degree  right  in  his  no 
tions.  Though  some  of  the  passengers  had  much  to  gain  by 
the  voyage,  none  of  them  had  anything  positively  to  lose. 
They  were  mostly  young  men,  in  the  heyday  of  life ;  and  hav 
ing  got  into  fine  latitudes,  upon  smooth  seas,  with  a  well- 
stored  ship  under  them,  and  a  fair  wind  in  the  shoulder  of  the 
sail,  they  seemed  to  have  got  into  a  holiday  world,  and  were 
disposed  to  enjoy  it.  That  craving  desire,  natural  to  untrav- 
elled  men  of  fresh  and  lively  minds,  to  see  strange  lands,  and 
to  visit  scenes  famous  in  history  or  fable,  was  expressed  by 
some  of  the  partners  and  clerks,  with  respect  to  some  of  the 
storied  coasts  and  islands  that  lay  within  their  route.  The 
captain,  however,  who  regarded  every  coast  and  island  with  a 
matter-of-fact  eye,  and  had  no  more  associations  connected 
with  them  than  those  laid  down  in  his  sea-chart,  considered 
all  this  curiosity  as  exceedingly  idle  and  childish.  "In  the 
first  part  of  the  voyage,"  says  he  in  his  letter,  "they  were  de 
termined  to  have  it  said  they  had  been  in  Africa,  and  there 
fore  insisted  on  my  stopping  at  the  Cape  de  Verdes.  Next 
they  said  the  ship  should  stop  on  the  coast  of  Patagonia,  for 
they  must  see  the  large  and  uncommon  inhabitants  of  that 
place.  Then  they  must  go  to  the  island  where  Robinson  Cru 
soe  had  so  long  lived.  And  lastly,  they  were  determined  to 
see  the  handsome  inhabitants  of  Easter  Island." 

To  all  these  resolves  the  captain  opposed  his  peremptory 
veto,  as  "contrary  t®  instructions."  Then  would  break  forth 
an  unavailing  explosion  of  wrath  on  the  part  of  certain  of  the 
partners,  in  the  course  of  which  they  did  not  even  spare  Mr. 
Astor  for  his  act  of  supererogation  in  furnishing  orders  for  the 
control  of  the  ship  while  they  were  on  board,  instead  of  leaving 
them  to  the  be  judges  where  it  would  be  best  for  her  to  touch, 
and  how  long  to  remain.  The  choleric  M'Dougal  took  the  lead 
in  these  railings,  being,  as  has  been  observed,  a  little  puffed  up 
with  the  idea  of  being  Mr.  Astor's  proxy. 


ASTOIHA.  51 

The  captain,  however,  became  only  so  much  the  more  crusty 
and  dogged  in  his  adherence  to  his  orders,  and  touchy  and 
harsh  in  his  dealings  with  his  passengers,  and  frequent  alter 
cations  ensued.  He  may  in  some  measure  have  been  in 
fluenced  by  his  seamanlike  inpatience  of  the  interference  of 
landsmen,  and  his  high  notions  of  naval  etiquette  and  quarter 
deck  authority;  but  he  evidently  had  an  honest,  trusty  con 
cern  for  the  interests  of  his  employer.  He  pictured  to  himself 
the  anxious  projector  of  the  enterprise,  who  had  disbursed  so 
munificently  in  its  outfit,  calculating  on  the  zeal,  fidelity,  and 
singleness  of  purpose  of  his  associates  and  agents ;  while  they, 
on  the  other  hand,  having  a  good  ship  at  their  disposal,  and  a 
deep  pocket  at  home  to  bear  them  out,  seemed  ready  to  loiter 
on  every  coast,  and  amuse  themselves  in  every  port. 

On  the  fourth  of  December  they  came  in  sight  of  the  Falkland 
Islands.  Having  been  for  some  time  on  an  allowance  of  water, 
it  was  resolved  to  anchor  here  and  obtain  a  supply.  A  boat 
was  sent  into  a  small  bay  to  take  soundings.  Mr.  M'Dougal 
and  Mr.  M'Kay  took  this  occasion  to  go  on  shore,  but  with  a 
request  from  the  captain  that  they  would  not  detain  the  ship. 
Once  on  shore,  however,  they  were  in  110  haste  to  obey  his 
orders,  but  rambled  about  in  search  of  curiosities.  The  an 
chorage  proving  unsafe,  and  water  difficult  to  be  procured,  the 
captain  stood  out  to  sea,  and  made  repeated  signals  for  those  on 
shore  to  rejoin  the  ship,  but  it  was  not  until  nine  at  night  that 
they  came  on  board. 

The  wind  being  adverse,  the  boat  was  again  sent  on  shore  on 
the  following  morning,  and  the  same  gentlemen  again  landed, 
but  promised  to  come  off  at  a  moment's  warning ;  they  again 
forgot  their  promise  in  their  eager  pursuit  of  wild  geese  and 
sea-wolves.  After  a  time  the  wind  hauled  fair,  and  signals 
were  made  for  the  boat.  Half  an  hour  elapsed,  but  no  boat 
put  off.  The  captain  reconnoitred  the  shore  with  his  glass,  and, 
to  his  infinite  vexation,  saw  the  loiterers  in  the  full  enjoyment  of 
their  "  wild-goose  chase."  Nettled  to  the  quick,  he  immediately 
made  sail.  When  those  on  shore  saw  the  ship  actually  under 
way,  they  embarked  with  all  speed,  but  had  a  hard  pull  of 
eight  miles  before  they  got  on  board,  and  then  experienced  but 
a  grim  reception,  notwithstanding  that  they  came  well  laden 
with  the  spoils  of  the  chase. 

Two  days  afterward,  on  the  seventh  of  December,  they  an 
chored  at  Port  Egmont,  in  the  same  island,  where  they  re 
mained  four  days  taking  in  water  and  making  repairs.  This 


52  ASTORIA. 

was  a  joyous  time  for  the  landsmen.  They  pitched  a  tent  on 
shore,  had  a  boat  at  their  command,  and  passed  their  time 
merrily  in  rambling  about  the  island,  and  coasting  along  the 
shores,  shooting  sea-lions,  seals,  foxes,  geese,  ducks,  and 
penguins.  None  were  keener  in  pursuit  of  this  kind  of  game 
than  M'Dougal  and  David  Stuart ;  the  latter  was  reminded  of 
aquatic  sports  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  and  his  hunting  ex 
ploits  in  the  northwest. 

In  the  mean  time  the  captain  addressed  himself  steadily  to 
the  business  of  his  ship,  scorning  the  holiday  spirit  and  useless 
pursuits  of  his  emancipated  messmates,  and  warning  them, 
from  time  to  time,  not  to  wander  away  nor  be  out  of  hail. 
They  promised,  as  usual,  that  the  ship  should  never  experience 
a  moment's  detention  on  their  account,  but  as  usual  forgot 
their  promise. 

On  the  morning  of  the  llth,  the  repairs  being  all  finished, 
and  the  water-casks  replenished,  the  signal  was  given  to  em 
bark,  and  the  ship  began  to  weigh  anchor.  At  this  time  several 
of  the  passengers  were  dispersed  about  the  island,  amusing 
themselves  in  various  ways.  Some  of  the  young  men  had 
found  two  inscriptions,  in  English,  over  a  place  where  two  un 
fortunate  mariners  had  been  buried  in  this  desert  island.  As 
the  inscriptions  were  nearly  worn  out  by  time  and  weather, 
they  were  playing  the  part  of  "Old  Mortality,"  and  piously 
renewing  them.  The  signal  from  the  ship  summoned  them 
from  their  labors ;  they  saw  the  sails  unfurled,  and  that  she  was 
getting  under  way.  The  two  sporting  partners,  however,  Mr. 
M'Dougal  and  David  Stuart,  had  strolled  away  to  the  south  of 
the  island  in  pursuit  of  penguins.  It  would  never  do  to  put  off 
without  them,  as  there  was  but  one  boat  to  convey  the  whole. 

While  this  delay  took  place  on  shore,  the  captain  was  storm 
ing  on  board.  This  was  the  third  time  his  orders  had  been 
treated  with  contempt,  and  the  ship  wantonly  detained,  and 
it  should  be  the  last ;  so  he  spread  all  sail  and  put  to  sea,  swear 
ing  he  would  leave  the  laggards  to  shift  for  themselves.  It  was 
in  vain  that  those  on  board  made  remonstrances  and  en 
treaties,  and  represented  the  horrors  of  abandoning  men  upon 
a  sterile  and  uninhabited  ^island :  the  sturdy  captain  was  in 
flexible. 

In  the  mean  time  the  penguin  hunters  had  joined  the  en 
gravers  of  tombstones,  but  not  before  the  ship  was  already  out 
at  sea.  They  all,  to  the  number  of  eight,  threw  themselves 
into  their  boat,  which  was  about  twenty  feet  in  length,  and 


ASTORIA.  53 

rowed  with  might  and  main.  For  three  hours  and  a  half  did 
they  tug  anxiously  and  severely  at  the  oar,  swashed  occasion 
ally  by  the  surging  waves  of  the  open  sea,  while  the  ship  in 
exorably  kept  on  her  course,  and  seemed  determined  to  leave 
them  behind. 

On  board  of  the  ship  was  the  nephew  of  David  Stuart,  a 
young  man  of  spirit  and  resolution.  Seeing,  as  he  thought, 
the  captain  obstinately  bent  upon  abandoning  his  uncle  and 
the  others,  he  seized  a  pistol,  and  in  a  paroxysm  of  wrath 
swore  he  would  blow  out  the  captain's  brains  unleS  he  put 
about  or  shortened  sail. 

Fortunately  for  all  parties,  the  wind  just  then  came  ahead, 
and  the  boat  was  enabled  to  reach  the  ship ;  otherwise,  disas 
trous  circumstances  might  have  ensued.  We  can  hardly  be 
lieve  that  the  captain  really  intended  to  carry  his  threat  into 
full  effect,  and  rather  think  he  meant  to  let  the  laggards  off 
for  a  long  pull  and  a  hearty  fright.  He  declared,  however,  in 
his  letter  to  Mr.  Astor,  that  he  was  serious  in  his  threats ;  and 
there  is  no  knowing  how  far  such  an  iron  man  may  push  his 
notions  of  authority. 

' '  Had  the  wind, "  writes  he,  ' '  (unfortunately)  not  hauled  ahead 
soon  after  leaving  the  harbor's  mouth,  I  should  positively  have 
left  them;  and,  indeed,  I  cannot  but  think  it  an  unfortunate 
circumstance  for  you  that  it  so  happened,  for  the  first  loss  in 
this  instance  would,  in  my  opinion,  have  proved  the  best,  as 
they  seem  to  have  no  idea  of  the  value  of  property,  nor  any 
apparent  regard  for  your  interest,  although  interwoven  with 
their  own." 

This,  it  must  be  confessed,  was  acting  with  a  high  hand,  and 
carrying  a  regard  to  the  owner's  property  to  a  dangerous 
length.  Various  petty  feuds  occurred  also  between  him  and 
the  partners  in  respect  to  the  gocds  on  board  the  ship,  some 
articles  of  which  they  wished  to  distribute  for  clothing  among 
the  men,  or  for  other  purposes  which  they  deemed  essential. 
The  captain,  however,  kept  a  mastiff  watch  upon  the  cargo, 
and  growled  and  snapped  if  they  but  offered  to  touch  box  or 
bale.  ' '  It  was  contrary  to  orders ;  it  would  forfeit  his  insur 
ance;  it  was  out  of  all  rule."  It  was  in  vain  they  insisted 
upon  their  right  to  do  so,  as  part  owners,  and  as  acting  for  the 
good  of  the  enterprise;  the  captain  only  stuck  to  his  point  the 
more  stanchly.  They  consoled  themselves,  therefore,  by  de 
claring  that  as  soon  as  they  made  land  they  would  assert  their 
rights,  and  do  with  ship  and  cargo  as  they  pleased. 


54  ASTORIA. 

Besides  these  feuds  between  the  captain  and  the  partners, 
there  were  feuds  between  the  partners  themselves,  occasioned, 
in  some  measure,  by  jealousy  of  rank.  M'Dougal  and  M'Kay 
began  to  draw  plans  for  the  fort,  and  other  buildings  of  the 
intended  establishment.  They  agreed  very  well  as  to  the  out 
line  and  dimensions,  which  were  on  a  sufficiently  grand  scale ; 
but  when  they  came  to  arrange  the  details,  fierce  disputes 
arose,  and  they  would  quarrel  by  the  hour  about  the  distribu 
tion  of  the  doors  and  windows.  Many  were  the  hard  words 
and  ha?&  names  bandied  between  them  on  these  occasions, 
according  to  the  captain's  account.  Each  accused  the  other  of 
endeavoring  to  assume  unwarrantable  power,  and  to  take  the 
lead ;  upon  which  Mr.  M'Dougal  would  vauntingly  lay  down 
Mr.  Astor's  letter,  constituting  him  his  representative  and 
proxy,  a  document  not  to  be  disputed. 

These  wordy  contests,  though  violent,  were  brief;  "  and  with 
in  fifteen  minutes,"  says  the  captain,  "they  would  be  caress 
ing  each  other  like  children." 

While  all  this  petty  anarchy  was  agitating  the  little  world 
within  the  Tonquin,  the  good  ship  prosperously  pursued  her 
course,  doubled  Cape  Horn  on  the  25th  of  December,  careered 
across  the  bosom  of  the  Pacific,  until,  on  the  llth  of  February, 
the  snowy  peaks  of  Owyhee  were  seen  brightening  above  the 
horizon. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

OWYHEE,  or  Hawaii,  as  it  is  written  by  more  exact  orthogra- 
phers,  is  the  largest  of  the  cluster,  ten  in  number,  of  the  Sand 
wich  Islands.  It  is  about  ninety-seven  miles  in  length  and 
seventy-eight  in  breadth,  rising  gradually  into  three  pyramidal 
summits  or  cones;  the  highest,  Mouna  Roa,  being  eighteen 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  so  as  to  domineer 
over  the  whole  Archipelago,  and  to  be  a  landmark  over  a  wide 
extent  of  ocean.  It  remains  a  lasting  monument  of  the  enter 
prising  and  unfortunate  Captain  Cook,  who  was  murdered  by 
the  natives  of  this  island. 

The  Sandwich  Islanders,  when  first  discovered,  evinced  a 
character  superior  to  most  of  the  savages  of  the  Pacific  Isles. 
They  were  frank  and  open  in  their  deportment,  friendly  and 


ASTORIA.  55 

liberal  in  their  dealings,  with  an  apt  ingenuity  apparent  in  all 
their  rude  inventions. 

The  tragical  fate  of  the  discoverer,  which,  for  a  time,  brought 
them  under  the  charge  of  ferocity,  was,  in  fact,  the  result  of 
sudden  exasperation,  caused  by  the  seizure  of  their  chief. 

At  the  time  of  the  visit  of  the  Tonquin,  the  islanders  had 
profited,  in  many  respect  ,  by  occasional  intercourse  with 
white  men ;  and  had  shown  a  quickness  to  observe  and  culti 
vate  those  arts  important  to  their  mode  of  living.  Originally 
they  had  no  means  of  navigating  the  seas  by  which  they  were 
surrounded,  superior  to  light  pirogues  which  were  little  com 
petent  to  contend  with  the  storms  of  the  broad  ocean.  As  the 
islanders  are  not  in  sight  of  each  other,  there  could,  therefore, 
be  but  casual  intercourse  between  them.  The  traffic  with 
white  men  had  put  them  in  possession  of  vessels  of  superior 
description ;  they  had  made  themselves  acquainted  with  their 
management,  and  had  even  made  rude  advances  in  the  art  of 
ship-building. 

These  improvements  had  been  promoted,  in  a  great  measure, 
by  the  energy  and  sagacity  of  one  man,  the  famous  Tamaah- 
maah.  He  had  originally  been  a  petty  eri,  or  chief ;  but,  being 
of  an  intrepid  and  aspiring  nature,  he  had  risen  in  rank,  and, 
availing  himself  of  the  superior  advantages  now  afforded  in 
navigation,  had  brought  the  whole  Archipelago  in  subjection 
to  his  arms.  At  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  Tonquin  he  had 
about  forty  schooners,  of  from  twenty  to  thirty  tons  burden, 
and  one  old  American  ship.  With  these  he  maintained  undis 
puted  sway  over  his  insular  domains,  and  carried  on  an  inter 
course  with  the  chiefs  or  governors  whom  he  had  placed  in 
command  of  the  several  islands. 

The  situation  of  this  group  of  islands,  far  in  the  bosom  of 
the  vast  Pacific,  and  their  abundant  fertility,  rendered  them 
important  stopping  places  on  the  highway  to  China,  or  to  the 
northwest  coast  of  America.  Here  the  vessels  engaged  in  the 
fur  trade  touched  to  make  repairs  and  procure  provisions ;  and 
here  they  often  sheltered  themselves  during  the  winters  that 
occurred  in  their  long  coasting  expeditions. 

The  British  navigators  were,  from  the  first,  aware  of  the 
value  of  these  islands  to  the  purposes  of  commerce;  and 
Tamaahmaah,  not  long  after  he  had  attained  the  sovereign 
sway,  was  persuaded  by  Vancouver,  the  celebrated  discoverer, 
to  acknowledge,  on  behalf  of  himself  and  subjects,  allegiance 
to  the  King  of  Great  Britain.  The  reader  cannot  but  call  to 


56  ASTORIA. 

mind  the  visit  which  the  royal  family  and  court  of  the  Sand 
wich  Islands  was,  in  late  years,  induced  to  make  to  the  court 
of  St.  James;  and  the  serio-comic  ceremonials  and  mock  pa' 
rade  which  attended  that  singular  travesty  of  monarchal  style. 

It  was  a  part  of  the  wide  and  comprehensive  plan  of  Mr. 
Astor  to  establish  a  friendly  intercourse  between  these  islands 
and  his  intended  colony,  which  might,  for  a  time,  have  occa 
sion  to  draw  supplies  thence ;  and  he  even  had  a  vague  idea  of, 
some  time  or  other,  getting  possession  of  one  of  their  islands 
as  a  rendezvous  for  his  ships,  and  a  link  in  the  chain  of  his 
commercial  establishments. 

On  the  evening  of  the  12th  of  February  the  Tonquin 
anchored  in  the  bay  of  Karakakooa,  in  the  island  of  Owyhee. 
The  surrounding  shores  were  wild  and  broken,  with  overhang 
ing  cliffs  and  precipices  of  black  volcanic  rock.  Beyond  these, 
however,  the  country  was  fertile  and  well  cultivated,  with 
inclosures  of  yams,  plantains,  sweet  potatoes,  sugar-canes, 
and  other  productions  of  warm  climates  and  teeming  soils ;  and 
the  numerous  habitations  of  the  natives  were  pleasantly 
sheltered  beneath  clumps  of  cocoanut  and  bread-fruit  trees, 
which  afforded  both  food  and  shade.  This  mingled  variety  of 
garden  and  grove  swept  gradually  up  the  sides  of  the  moun 
tains  until  succeeded  by  dense  forests,  which  in  turn  gave 
place  to  naked  and  craggy  rocks,  until  the  summits  rose  into 
the  regions  of  perpetual  snow. 

The  royal  residence  of  Tamaahmaah  was  at  this  time  at 
another  island  named  Woahoo.  The  island  of  Owyhee  was 
under  the  command  of  one  of  his  eris,  or  chiefs,  who  resided 
at  the  village  of  Tocaigh,  situated  on  a  different  part  of  the 
coast  from  the  bay  of  Karakakooa. 

On  the  morning  after  her  arrival,  the  ship  was  surrounded 
by  canoes  and  pirogues,  filled  with  the  islanders  of  both  sexes, 
bringing  off  supplies  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  bananas,  plain- 
tains,  waterme/ons,  yams^  cabbages,  and  taro.  The  captain 
was  desirous,  however,  of  purchasing  a  number  of  hogs,  but 
there  were  none  to  be  had.  The  trade  in  pork  was  a  royal 
monopoly,  and  no  subject  of  the  great  Tamaahmaah  dared  to 
meddle  with  it.  Such  provisions  as  they  could  furnish,  how 
ever,  were  brought  by  the  natives  in  abundance,  and  a  lively 
intercourse  was  kept  up  during  the  day,  in  which  the  women 
mingled  in  the  kindest  manner. 

The  islanders  are  a  comely  race,  of  a  copper  complexion. 
The  men  are  tall  and  well  made,  with  forms  indicating 


ASTORIA.  57 

strength  and  activity ;  the  women  with  regular  and  occasion 
ally  handsome  features,  and  a  lascivious  expression,  character 
istic  of  their  temperament  Their  style  of  dress  was  nearly 
the  same  as  in  the  days  of  Captain  Cook.  The  men  wore  the 
maro,  a  band  one  foot  in  width  and  several  feet  in  length, 
swathed  round  the  loins,  and  formed  of  tappa,  or  cloth  of  bark ; 
the  kihei,  or  mantle,  about  six  feet  square,  tied  in  a  knot  over 
one  shoulder,  passed  under  the  opposite  arm,  so  as  to  leave  it 
bare  and,  falling  in  graceful  folds  before  and  behind,  to  the 
knee,  so  as  to  bear  some  resemblance  to  a  Roman  toga. 

The  female  dress  consisted  of  the  pau,  a  garment  formed  of 
a  piece  of  tappa,  several  yards  in  length  and  one  in  width, 
wrapped  round  the  waist  and  reaching,  like  a  petticoat,  to  the 
knees.  Over  this  a  kihei  or  mantle,  larger  than  that  of  the 
men,  sometimes  worn  over  both  shoulders,  like  a  shawl,  some 
times  over  one  only.  These  mantles  were  seldom  worn  by 
either  sex  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  when  the  exposure  of 
their  persons  was  at  first  very  revolting  to  a  civilized  eye. 

Toward  evening  several  of  the  partners  and  clerks  went  on 
shore,  where  they  were  well  received  and  hospitably  enter 
tained.  A  dance  was  performed  for  their  amusement,  in  which 
nineteen  young  women  and  one  man  figured  very  gracefully, 
singing  in  concert,  and  moving  to  the  cadence  of  their  song. 

All  this,  however,  was  nothing  to  the  purpose  in  the  eyes  of 
Captain  Thorn,  who,  being  disappointed  in  his  hope  of  obtain 
ing  a  supply  of  pork,  or  finding  good  water,  was  anxious  to  be 
off.  This  it  was  not  so  easy  to  effect.  The  passengers,  once 
on  shore,  were  disposed,  a,s  usual,  to  profit  by  the  occasion. 
The  partners  had  many  inquiries  to  make  relative  to  the  island, 
with  a  view  to  business ;  while  the  young  clerks  were  delighted 
with  the  charms  and  graces  of  the  dancing  damsels. 

To  add  to  their  gratifications,  an  old  man  offered  to  conduct 
them  to  the  spot  where  Captain  Cook  was  massacred.  The 
proposition  was  eagerly  accepted,  and  all  hands  set  out  on  a 
pilgrimage  to  the  place.  The  veteran  islander  performed  his 
promise  faithfully,  and  pointed  out  the  very  spot  where  the  un 
fortunate  discoverer  fell.  The  rocks  and  cocoa-trees  around 
bore  record  of  the  fact,  in  the  marks  of  the  balls  fired  from  the 
boats  upon  the  savages.  The  pilgrims  gathered  round  the  old 
man,  and  drew  from  him  all  the  particulars  he  had  to  relate 
respecting  this  memorable  event;  while  the  honest  captain 
stood  by  and  bit  his  nails  with  impatience.  To  add  to  his 
vexation,  they  employed  themselves  in  knocking  off  pieces  of 


58  ASTORIA. 

the  rocks,  and  cutting  off  the  bark  of  the  trees  marked  by  the 
balls,  which  they  conveyed  back  to  the  ship  as  precious  relics. 

Eight  glad,  therefore,  was  he  to  get  them  and  their  treasures 
fairly  on  board,  when  he  made  sail  from  this  unprofitable 
place,  and  steered  for  the  Bay  of  Tocaigh,  the  residence  of  the 
chief  or  governor  of  the  island,  where  he  hoped  to  be  more 
successful  in  obtaining  supplies.  On  coming  to  anchor  the 
captain  went  on  shore,  accompanied  by  Mr.  M'Dougal  and 
Mr.  M'Kay,  and  paid  a  visit  to  the  governor.  This  dignitary 
proved  to  be  an  old  sailor,  by  the  name  of  John  Young ;  who, 
after  being  tossed  about  the  seas  like  another  Sinbad,  had,  by 
one  of  the  whimsical  freaks  of  fortune,  been  elevated  to  the 
government  of  a  savage  island.  He  received  his  visitors  with 
more  hearty  familiarity  than  personages  in  his  high  station  are 
apt  to  indulge,  but  soon  gave  them  to  understand  that  pro 
visions  were  scanty  at  Tocaigh,  and  that  there  was  no  good 
water,  no  rain  having  fallen  in  the  neighborhood  in  three 
years. 

The  captain  was  immediately  for  breaking  up  the  conference 
and  departing,  but  the  partners  were  not  so  willing  to  part  with 
the  nautical  governor^  who  seemed  disposed  to  be  extremely 
communicative,  and  from  whom  they  might  be  able  to  pro 
cure  some  useful  information.  A  long  conversation  accord 
ingly  ensued,  in  the  course  of  which  they  made  many  inquiries 
about  the  affairs  of  the  islands,  their  natural  productions,  and 
the  possibility  of  turning  them  to  advantage  in  the  way  of 
trade ;  nor  did  they  fail  to  inquire  into  the  individual  history  of 
John  Young,  and  how  he  came  to  be  governor.  This  he  gave 
with  great  condescension,  running  through  the  whole  course 
of  his  fortunes,  "  even  from  his  boyish  days.'1 

He  was  a  native  of  Liverpool,  in  England,  and  had  followed 
the  sea  from  boyhood,  until,  by  dint  of  good  conduct,  he  had 
risen  so  far  in  his  profession  as  to  be  boatswain  of  an  Ameri 
can  ship  called  the  Eleanor,  commanded  by  Captain  Metcalf. 
In  this  vessel  he  had  sailed  in  1789,  on  one  of  those  casual 
expeditions  to  the  northwest  coast  in  quest  of  furs.  In  the 
course  of  the  voyage  the  captain  left  a  small  schooner,  named 
the  Fair  American,  at  Nootka,  with  a  crew  of  five  men,  com 
manded  by  his  son,  a  youth  of  eighteen.  She  was  to  follow  on 
in  the  track  of  the  Eleanor. 

In  February,  1790,  Captain  Metcalf  touched  at  the  island  of 

Mowee,  one  of  the  Sandwich  group.     While  anchored  here,  a 

'  boat  which  was  astern  of  the  Eleanor  was  stolen,  and  a  seaman 


ASTORIA.  59 

who  was  in  it  was  killed.  The  natives,  generally,  disclaimed 
the  outrage,  and  brought  the  shattered  remains  of  the  boat  and 
the  dead  body  of  the  seaman  to  the  ship.  Supposing'  that  they 
had  thus  appeased  the  anger  of  the  captain,  they  thronged,  as 
usual,  in  great  numbers  about  the  vessel,  to  trade.  Captain 
Metcalf,  however,  determined  on  a  bloody  revenge.  The  Elea 
nor  mounted  ten  guns.  All  these  he  ordered  to  be  loaded  with 
musket-balls,  nails,  and  pieces  of  old  iron,  and  then  fired  them, 
and  the  small  arms  of  the  ship,  among  the  natives.  The  havoc 
was  dreadful;  more  than  a  hundred,  according  to  Young's 
account,  were  slain. 

After  this  signal  act  of  vengeance,  Captain  Metcalf  sailed 
from  Mowee,  and  made  for  the  island  of  Owyhee,  where  he 
was  well  received  by  Tamaahmaah.  The  fortunes  of  this  war 
like  chief  were  at  that  time  on  the  rise.  He  had  originally 
been  of  inferior  rank,  ruling  over  only  one  or  two  districts  of 
Owyhee,  but  had  gradually  made  himself  sovereign  of  his  na 
tive  island. 

The  Eleanor  remained  some  few  days  at  anchor  here,  and  an 
apparently  friendly  intercourse  was  kept  up  with  the  inhabi 
tants.  On  the  17th  March  John  Young  obtained  permission 
to  pass  the  night  on  shore.  On  the  following  morning  a  signal 
gun  summoned  him  to  return  on  board. 

He  went  to  the  shore  to  embark,  but  found  all  the  canoes 
hauled  up  on  the  beach  and  rigorously  tabooed,  or  interdicted. 
He  would  have  launched  one  himself,  but  was  informed  by 
Tamaahmaah  that  if  he  presumed  to  do  so  he  would  be  put  to 
death. 

Young  was  obliged  to  submit,  and  remained  all  day  in  great 
perplexity  to  account  for  this  mysterious  taboo,  and  fearful 
that  some  hostility  was  intended.  In  the  evening  he  learned 
the  cause  of  it,  and  his  uneasiness  was  increased.  It  appeared 
that  the  vindictive  act  of  Captain  Metcalf  had  recoiled  upon- 
his  own  head.  The  schooner  Fair  American,  commanded  by 
his  son,  following  in  his  track,  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the 
natives  to  the  southward  of  Tocaigh  Bay,  and  young  Metcalf 
and  four  of  the  crew  had  been  massacred. 

On  receiving  intelligence  of  this  event,  Tamaahmaah  had 
immediately  tabooed  all  the  canoes,  and  interdicted  all  inter 
course  with  the  ship,  lest  the  captain  should  learn  the  fate  of 
the  schooner,  and  take  his  revenge  upon  the  island.  For  the 
same  reason  he  prevented  Young  from  rejoining  his  country 
men.  The  Eleanor  continued  to  fire  signals  from  time  to  time 


60  ASTORIA. 

for  two  days,  and  then  sailed ;  concluding,  no  doubt,  that  the 
boatswain  had  deserted. 

John  Young  was  in  despair  when  he  saw  the  ship  make  sail, 
and  found  himself  abandoned  among  savages;  and  savages, 
too,  sanguinary  in  their  character,  and  inflamed  l}y  acts  of 
hostility.  Ho  was  agreeably  disappointed,  however,  in  expe 
riencing  nothing  but  kind  treatment  from  Tamaahmaah  and 
his  people.  It  is  true,  he  w^as  narrowly  watched  whenever  a 
vessel  came  in  sight,  lest  he  should  escape  and  relate  what  had 
passed ;  but  at  other  times  he  was  treated  with  entire  confi 
dence  and  great  distinction.  He  became  a  prime  favorite,  cab 
inet  counsellor,  and  active  coadjutor  of  Tamaahmaah,  attend 
ing  him  in  all  his  excursions,  whether  of  business  or  pleasure, 
and  aiding  in  his  warlike  and  ambitious  enterprises.  By  de 
grees  he  rose  to  the  rank  of  a  chief,  espoused  one  of  the  beauties 
of  the  island,  and  became  habituated  and  reconciled  to  his  new 
way  of  life ;  thinking  it  better,  perhaps,  to  rule  among  savages 
than  serve  among  white  men ;  to  be  a  feathered  chief  than  a 
tarpawling  boatswain.  His  favor  with  Tamaahmaah  never  de 
clined  ;  and  when  that  sagacious,  intrepid,  and  aspiring  chief 
tain  had  made  himself  sovereign  over  the  whole  group  of 
islands,  and  removed  his  residence  to  Woahoo,  he  left  his  faith 
ful  adherent  John  Young  in  command  of  Owyhee. 

Such  is  an  outline  of  the  history  of  Governor  Young,  as  fur 
nished  by  himself ;  and  we  regret  that  we  are  not  able  to  give 
any  account  of  the  state  maintained  by  this  seafaring  worthy, 
and  the  manner  in  which  he  discharged  his  high  functions ; 
though  it  is  evident  he  had  more  of  the  hearty  familiarity  of 
the  forecastle  than  the  dignity  of  the  gubernatorial  office. 

These  long  conferences  were  bitter  trials  to  the  patience  of 
the  captain,  who  had  no  respect  either  for  the  governor  or  his 
island,  and  was  anxious  to  push  on  in  quest  of  provisions  and 
water.  As  soon  as  he  could  get  his  inquisitive  partners  once 
more  on  board,  he  weighed  anchor,  and  made  sail  for  the 
island  of  Woahoo,  the  royal  residence  of  Tamaahmaah. 

This  is  the  most  beautiful  island  of  the  Sandwich  group.  It 
is  forty-six  miles  in  length  and  twenty-three  in  breadth.  A 
rid,c;e  of  volcanic  mountains  extends  through  the  centre,  rising 
into  lofty  peaks,  and  skirted  by  undulating  hills  and  rich 
plains,  where  the  cabins  of  the  natives  peep  out  from  beneath 
groves  of  cocoanut  and  other  luxuriant  trees. 

•On  the  21st  of  February  the  Tonquin  cast  anchor  in  the  beau 
tiful  bay  before  the  village  of  Waititi,  (pronounced  Whyteetee), 


ASTORIA.  61 

the  abode  of  Tamaahmaali.  This  village  contained  about  two 
hundred  habitations,  composed  of  poles  set  in  the  ground,  tied 
together  at  the  ends,  and  thatched  with  grass,  and  was  situated 
in  an  open  grove  of  coeoanuts.  The  royal  palace  of  Tamaah- 
niaah  was  a  large  house  of  two  stories;  the  lower  of  stone,*  the 
upper  of  wood.  Round  this  his  body-guard  kept  watch,  com 
posed  of  twenty-four  men,  in  long  blue  cassocks  turned  up 
with  yellow,  and  each  armed  with  a  musket. 

While  at  anchor  at  this  place,  much  ceremonious  visiting 
and  long  conferences  took  place  between  the  potentate  of  the 
islands  and  the  partners  of  the  company.  Tamaahmaah  came 
on  board  of  the  ship  in  royal  style,  in  his  double  pirogue.  He 
was  between  fifty  and  sixty  years  of  age,  above  the  middle 
size,  large  and  well  made,  though  somewhat  corpulent.  He 
was  dressed  in  an  old  suit  of  regimentals,  with  a  swrord  by  his 
side,  and  seemed  somewhat  embarrassed  by  his  magnificent 
attire.  Three  of  his  wives  accompanied  him.  They  were 
almost  as  tall,  and  quite  as  corpulent  as  himself ;  but  by  no 
means  to  be  compared  with  him  in  grandeur  of  habiliments, 
wearing  no  other  garb  than  the  pau.  With  him  also  came  his 
great  favorite  and  confidential  counsellor,  Kraimaker;  who, 
from  holding  a  post  equivalent  to  that  of  prime  minister,  had 
been  familiarly  named  Billy  Pitt  by  the  British  visitors  to  the 
islands. 

The  sovereign  was  received  with  befitting  ceremonial.  The 
American  flag  was  displayed,  four  guns  were  fired,  and  the 
partners  appeared  in  scarlet  coats,  and  conducted  their  illus 
trious  guests  to  the  cabin,  where  they  were  regaled  with  wine. 
In  this  interview  the  partners  endeavored  to  impress  the  mon 
arch  with  a  sense  of  their  importance,  and  of  the  importance 
of  the  association  to  which  they  belonged.  They  let  him  know 
that  they  were  eris,  or  chiefs,  of  a  great  company  about  to  be 
established  on  the  northwest  coast,  and  talked  of  the  probability 
of  opening  a  trade  with  his  islands,  and  of  sending  ships  there 
occasionally.  *A11  this  was  gratifying  and  interesting  to  him, 
for  he  was  aware  of  the  advantages  of  trade,  and  desirous  of 
promoting  frequent  intercourse  with  white  men.  He  encour 
aged  Europeans  and  Americans  to  settle  in  his  islands,  and 
intermarry  with  his  subjects.  There  were  between  twenty  and 
thirty  white  men  at  that  time  resident  in  the  island,  but  many 
of  them  were  mere  vagabonds,  who  remained  there  in  hopes 
of  leading  a  lazy  and  an  easy  life.  For  such  Tamaahmaah  had 
a  great  contempt ;  those  only  had  his  esteem  arid  countenance 


62  ASTORIA. 

who  knew  some  trade  or  mechanic  art,  and  were  sober  and  in 
dustrious. 

On  the  day  subsequent  to  the  monarch's  visit,  the  partners 
landed  and  waited  upon  him  in  return.  Knowing  the  effect  of 
show  and  dress  upon  men  in  savage  life,  and  wishing  to  make 
a  favorable  impression  as  the  ms,  or  chiefs,  of  the  great  Amer 
ican  Fur  Company,  some  of  them  appeared  in  Highland  plaids 
and  kilts,  to  the  great  admiration  of  the  natives. 

While  visits  of  ceremony  and  grand  diplomatic  conferences 
were  going  on  between  the  partners  and  the  king,  the  captain, 
in  his  plain,  matter-of-fact  way,  was  pushing  what  he  consid 
ered  a  far  more  important  negotiation— the  purchase  of  a  sup 
ply  of  hogs.  He  found  that  the  king  had  profited  in  more 
ways  than  one  by  his  intercourse  witli  white  men.  Above  all 
other  arts  he  had  learned  the  art  of  driving  a  bargain.  He  was 
a  magnanimous  monarch,  but  a  shrewd  pork  merchant,  and 
perhaps  thought  he  could  not  do  better  with  his  future  allies, 
the  American  Fur  Company,  than  to  begin  by  close  dealing. 
Several  interviews  were  requisite,  and  much  bargaining,  be 
fore  he  could  be  brought  to  part  with  a  bristle  of  his  bacon, 
and  then  he  insisted  upon  being  paid  in  hard  Spanish  dollars, 
giving  as  a  reason  that  he  wanted  money  to  purchase  a  frigate 
from  his  brother  George,  as  Ije  affectionately  termed  the  King 
of  England.* 

At  length  the  royal  bargain  was  concluded :  the  necessary 
supply  of  hogs  obtained,  besides  several  goats,  two  sheep,  a 
quantity  of  poultry,  and  vegetables  in  abundance.  The  part 
ners  now  urged  to  recruit  their  forces  from  the  natives  of  this 


*  It  appears,  from  the  accounts  of  subsequent  voyages,  that  Tamaahmaah,  after 
ward  succeeded  in  his  wish  of  purchasing  a  large  ship.  In  this  he  sent  a  cargo  of 
sandal-wood  to  Canton,  having  discovered  that  the  foreign  merchants  trading  with 
him  made  large  profits  on  this  wood,  shipped  by  them  from  the  islands  to  the 
Chinese  markets.  The  ship  was  manned  by  natives,  but  the  officers  were  English 
men.  She  accomplished  her  voyage,  and  returned  in  safety  to  the  islands,  with  the 
Hawaiian  flag  floating  gloriously  in  the  breeze.  The  king  hastafced  on  board,  ex 
pecting  to  find  his  sandal-wood  converted  into  crapes  and  damasks,  and  other  rich 
stuffs  of  China,  but  found,  to  his  astonishment,  by  the  legerdemain  of  traffic,  his 
cargo  had  all  disappeared,  and,  in  place  of  it,  remained  a  bill  of  charges  amounting 
to  three  thousand  dollars.  It  was  some  time  before  he  could  be  made  to  compre 
hend  certain  of  the  most  important  items  of  the  bill,  such  as  pilotage,  anchorage, 
and  custom-house  fees;  but  when  he  discovered  that  maritime  states  in  other 
countries  derived  large  revenues  in  this  manner,  to  the  great  cost  of  the  merchant, 
"  Well,"  cried  lie,  ''then  I  will  have  harbor  fees  also."  He  established  them  ac 
cordingly.  Pilotage  a  dollar  a  foot  on  the  draft  of  each  vessel.  Anchorage  from 
sixty  to  seventy  dollars.  In  this  way  lie  greatly  increased  the  royal  revenue,  and 
turned  his  China  speculation  to  account. 


ASTORIA.  63 

island.  They  declared  they  had  never  seen  watermen  equal  to 
them,  even  among  the  voyageurs  of  the  northwest ;  and  in 
deed  they  are  remarkable  for  their  skill  in  managing  their 
light  craft,  and  can  swim  and  dive  like  water-fowl.  The  part 
ners  were  inclined,  therefore,  to  take  thirty  or  forty  with  them 
to  the  Columbia,  to  be  employed  in  the  service  of  the  company. 
The  captain,  however,  objected  that  there  was  not  room  in  his^ 
vessel  for  the  accommodation  of  such  a  number.  Twelve,* 
only,  were  therefore  enlisted  for  the  company,  and  as  many 
more  for  the  service  of  the  ship.  The  former  engaged  to  serve 
for  the  term  of  three  years,  during  which  they  were  to  be  fed 
and  clothed,  and  at  t&e  expiration  of  the  time  were  to  receive 
one  hundred  dollars  in  merchandise. 

And  now,  having  embarked  his  live-stock,  fruits,  vegetables, 
and  water,  the  captain  made  ready  to  set  sail.  How  much  the 
honest  man  had  suffered  in  spirit  by  what  he  considered  the 
freaks  and  vagaries  of  his  passengers,  and  how  little  he  had 
understood  their  humors  and  intentions,  is  amusingly  shown 
in  a  letter  written  to  Mr.  Astor  from  Woahoo,  which  contains 
his  comments  on  the  scenes  we  have  described. 

"  It  would  be  difficult,"  he  writes,  "to  imagine  the  frantic 
gambols  that  are  daily  played  off  here ;  sometimes  dressing  in 
red  coats,  and  otherwise  very  fantastically,  and  collecting  a 
number  of  ignorant  natives  around  them,  telling  them  that 
they  are  the  great  earis  of  the  northwest,  and  making  arrange 
ments  for  sending  three  or  four  vessels  yearly  to  them  from 
the  coast  with  spars,  etc. ;  while  those  very  natives  cannot 
even  furnish  a  hog  to  the  ship.  Then  dressing  in  Highland 
plaids  and  kilts,  and  making  similar  arrangements,  with  pres 
ents  of  rum,  wine,  or  anything  that  is  at  hand.  Then  taking 
a  number  of  clerks  and  men  on  shore  to  the  very  spot  on 
which  Captain  Cook  was  killed,  and  each  fetching  off  a  piece 
of  the  rock  or  tree  that  was  touched  by  the  shot.  Then  sitting 
down  with  some  white  man  or  some  native  who  can  be  a  little 
understood,  and  collecting  the  history  of  those  islands,  of  Ta- 
maahmaah's  wars, the  curiosities  of  the  islands, etc.,  preparatory 
to  the  histories  of  their  voyages ;  and  the  collection  is  indeed 
ridiculously  contemptible.  To  enumerate  the  thousand  in 
stances  of  ignorance,  filth,  etc.,  or  to  particularize  all  the  fran 
tic  gambols  that  are  daily  practised,  would  require  volumes." 

Before  embarking  the  great  eris  of  the  American  Fur  Com. 
pany  took  leave  of  their  illustrious  ally  in  due  style,  with 
many  professions  of  lasting  friendship  and  promises  of  future 


64  ASTORIA. 

intercourse;  while  the  matter-of-fact  captain  anathematized 
him  in  his  heart  for  a  grasping,  trafficking  savage,  as  shrewd 
and  sordid  in  his  dealings  as  a  white  man.  As  one  of  the  ves 
sels  of  the  company  will,  in  the  course  of  events,  have  to  ap 
peal  to  the  justice  and  magnanimity  of  this  island  potentate, 
we  shall  see  how  far  the  honest  captain  was  right  in  his 
opinion. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

IT  was  on  the  28th  of  February  that  the  Tonquin  set  sail  from 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  For  two  days  the  wind  was  contrary, 
and  the  vessel  was  detained  in  their  neighborhood ;  at  length  a 
favorable  breeze  sprang  up,  and  in  a  little  while  the  rich 
groves,  green  hills,  and  snowy  peaks  of  those  happy  islands 
one  after  another  sank  from  sight,  or  melted  into  the  blue 
distance,  and  the  Tonquin  ploughed  her  course  toward  the 
sterner  regions  of  the  Pacific. 

The  misunderstandings  between  the  captain  and  his  passen 
gers  still  continued ;  or  rather,  increased  in  gravity.  By  his 
altercations  and  his  moody  humors  he  had  cut  himself  off  from 
all  community  of  thought  or  freedom  of  conversation  with 
them.  He  disdained  to  ask  any  questions  as  to  their  proceed 
ings,  and  could  only  guess  at  the  meaning  of  their  movements, 
and  in  so  doing  indulged  in  conjectures  and  suspicions  which 
produced  the  most  whimsical  self -torment. 

Thus,  in  one  of  his  disputes  with  them,  relative  to  the  goods 
on  board,  some  of  the  packages  of  which  they  wished  to  open, 
to  take  out  articles  of  clothing  for  the  men,  or  presents  for  the 
natives,  he  was  so  harsh  and  peremptory  that  they  lost  all  pa 
tience,  and  hinted  that  they  were  the  strongest  party,  and 
might  reduce  him  to  a  very  ridiculous  dilemma,  by  taking  from 
him  the  command. 

A  thought  now  flashed  across  the  captain's  mind  that  they 
really  had  a  design  to  depose  him,  and  that,  having  picked  up 
some  information  at  Owyhee,  possibly  of  war  between  the 
United  States  and  England,  they  meant  to  alter  the  destination 
of  the  voyage,  perhaps  to  seize  upon  ship  and  cargo  for  their 
own  use. 

Once  having  conceived  this  suspicion,  everything  went  to 


ASTORIA.  65 

foster  it.  They  had  distributed  firearms  among  some  of  their 
men,  a  common  precaution  among  the  fur  traders  when  ming 
ling  with  the  natives.  This,  however',  looked  like  preparation. 
Then  several  of  the  partners  and  clerks  and  some  of  the  men, 
being  Scotsmen,  were  acquainted  with  the  Gaelic,  and  held  long 
conversations  together  in  that  language.  These  conversations 
were  considered  by  the  captain  of  a  "  mysterious  and  unwar 
rantable  nature,"  and  related,  no  doubt,  to  some  foul  conspir 
acy  that  was  brewing  among  them.  He  frankly  avows  such 
suspicions  in  his  letter  to  Mr.  Astor,  but  intimates  that  he  stood 
ready  to  resist  any  treasonous  outbreak,  and  seems  to  think 
that  the  evidence  of  preparation  on  his  part  had  an  effect  in 
overawing  the  conspirators. 

The  fact  is,  as  we  have  since  been  informed  by  one  of  the 
parties,  it  was  a  mischievous  pleasure  with  some  of  the  partners 
and  clerks,  who  were  young  men,  to  play  upon  the  suspicious 
temper  and  splenetic  humors  of  the  captain.  To  this  we  may 
ascribe  many  of  their  whimsical  pranks  and  absurd  proposi 
tions,  and,  above  all,  their  mysterious  colloquies  in  Gaelic. 

In  this  sore  and  irritable  mood  did  the  captain  pursue  his 
course,  keeping  a  wary  eye  on  every  movement,  and  bristling 
up  whenever  the  detested  sound  of  the  Gaelic  language  grated 
upon  his  ear.  Nothing  occurred,  however,  materially  to  disturb 
the  residue  of  the  voyage,  excepting  a  violent  storm ;  and  on 
the  twenty-second  of  March  the  Tonquin  arrived  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Oregon  or  Columbia  River. 

The  aspect  of  the  river  and  the  adjacent  coast  was  wild  and 
dangerous.  The  mouth  of  the  Columbia  is  upward  of  four 
miles  wide,  with  a  peninsula  and  promontory  on  one  side,  and 
a  long  low  spit  of  land  on  the  other ;  between  which  a  sand-bar 
and  chain  of  breakers  almost  block  up  the  entrance.  The  in 
terior  of  the  country  rises  into  successive  ranges  of  mountains, 
which,  at  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  Tonquin,  were  covered 
with  snow. 

A  fresh  wind  from  the  northwest  sent  a  rough  tumbling  sea 
upon  the  coast,  which  broke  upon  the  bar  in  furious  surges, 
and  extended  a  sheet  of  foam  almost  across  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  Under  these  circumstances  the  captain  did  not  think  it 
prudent  to  approach  within  three  leagues,  until  the  bar  should 
be  sounded  and  the  channel  ascertained.  Mr.  Fox,  the  chief 
mate,  was  ordered  to  this  service  in  the  whaleboat,  accompa 
nied  by  John  Martin,  an  old  seaman,  who  had  formerly  visited 
the  river,  and  by  three  Canadians.  Fox  requested  to  have 


66  ASTORIA. 

regular  sailors  to  man  the  boat,  but  the  captain  would  not 
spare  them  from  the  service  of  the  ship,  and  supposed  the  Ca 
nadians,  being  expert  boatmen  on  lakes  and  rivers,  were  com- 
petent  to  the  service,  especially  when  directed  and  aided  by 
Fox  and  Martin.  Fox  seems  to  have  lost  all  firmness  of  spirit 
on  the  occasion,  and  to  have  regarded  the  service  with  a  mis 
giving  heart.  He  came  to  the  partners  for  sympathy,  know 
ing  their  differences  with  the  captain,  and  the  tears  were  in 
bir;  eyes  as  he  represented  his  case.  "  I  am  sent  off,"  said  he, 
"-without  seamen  to  man  my  boat,  in  boisterous  weather,  and 
011  the  most  dangerous  part  of  the  northwest  coast.  My  uncle 
was  lost  a  few  years  ago  on  this  same  bar,  and  I  am  now  going 
to  lay  my  bones  alongside  of  his."  The  partners  sympathized 
in  his  apprehensions,  and  remonstrated  with  the  captain.  The 
latter,  however,  was  not  to  be  moved.  He  had  been  displeased 
with  Mr.  Fox  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  voyage,  considering  him 
indolent  and  inactive,  and  probably  thought  his  present  repug 
nance  arose  from  a  want  of  true  nautical  spirit.  The  interfer 
ence  of  the  partners  in  the  business  of  the  ship,  also,  was  not 
calculated  to  have  a  favorable  effect  on  a  stickler  for  authority 
like  himself,  especially  in  his  actual  state  of  feeling  toward 
them. 

At  one  o'clock  P.M..  therefore,  Fox  and  his  comrades  set  off 
in  the  whaleboat,  which  is  represented  as  small  in  size  and 
crazy  in  condition.  All  eyes  were  strained  after  the  little  bark 
as  it  pulled  for  shore,  rising  and  sinking  with  the  huge  rolling 
waves,  until  it  entered,  a  mere  speck,  among  the  foaming 
breakers,  and  was  soon  lost  to  view.  Evening  set  in,  night 
succeeded  and  passed  away,  and  morning  returned,  but  with 
out  the  return  of  the  boat. 

As  the  wind  had  moderated,  the  ship  stood  near  to  the  land, 
so  as  to  command  a  view  of  the  river's  mouth.  Nothing  was 
to  be  seen  but  a  wild  chaos  of  tumbling  waves  breaking  upon 
the  bar,  and  apparently  forming  a  foaming  barrier  from  shore 
to  shore.  Toward  night  the  ship  again  stood  out  to  gain  sea- 
room,  and  a  gloom  was  visible  in  every  countenance.  The 
captain  himself  shared  in  the  general  anxiety,  and  probably 
repented  of  his  peremptory  orders.  Another  weary  and  watch 
ful  night  succeeded,  during  which  the  wind  subsided,  and  the 
weather  became  serene. 

On  the  following  day,  the  ship,  having  drifted  near  the  land, 
anchored  in  fourteen  fathoms  water,  to  the  northward  of  the 
long  peninsula  or  promontory  which  forms  the  north  side  of 


ASTORIA.  67 

the  entrance,  and  is  called  Cape  Disappointment.  The  pinnace 
was  then  manned,  and  two  of  the  partners,  Mr.  David  Stuart 
and  Mr.  M'Kay,  set  off  in  the  hope  of  learning  something  of 
the  fate  of  the  whaleboat.  The  surf,  however,  broke  with  such 
violence  along  the  shore  that  they  could  find  no  landing  place. 
Several  of  the  natives  appeared  on  the  beach  and  made  signs 
to  them  to  row  round  the  cape,  but  they  thought  it  most  pru 
dent  to  return  to  the  ship. 

The  wind  now  springing  up,  the  Tonquin  got  under  way,  and 
stood  in  to  seek  the  channel,  but  was  again  deterred,  by  the 
frightful  aspect  of  the  breakers,  from  venturing  within  a 
league.  Here  she  hove  to,  and  Mr.  Mumford,  the  second  mate, 
was  dispatched  with  four  hands,  in  the  pinnace,  to  sound 
across  the  channel,  until  he  should  find  four  fathoms  depth. 
The  pinnace  entered  among  the  breakers,  but  was  near  being 
lost,  and  with  difficulty  got  back  to  the  ship.  The  captain  in 
sisted  that  Mr.  Mumford  had  eteered  too  much  to  the  south 
ward.  He  now  turned  to  Mr.  Aiken,  an  able  mariner,  destined 
to  command  the  schooner  intended  for  the  coasting  trade,  and 
ordered  him,  together  with  John  Coles,  sailmaker,  Stephen 
Weekes,  armorer,  and  two  Sandwich  Islanders,  to  proceed 
ahead  and  take  soundings  while  the  ship  should  follow  under 
easy  sail.  In  this  way  they  proceeded  until  Aiken  had  ascer 
tained  the  channel,  when  signal  was  given  from  the  ship  for 
him  to  return  on  board.  He  was  then  within  pistol-shot,  but 
so  furious  was  the  current,  and  tumultuous  the  breakers,  that 
the  boat  became  unmanageable,  and  was  hurried  away,  the 
crew  crying  out  piteously  for  assistance.  In  a  few  moments 
she  could  not  be  seen  from  the  ship's  deck.  Some  of  the 
passengers  climbed  to  the  mizzentop,  and  beheld  her  still 
struggling  to  reach  the  ship;  but  shortly  after  she  broached, 
broadside  to  the  waves,  and  her  case  seemed  desperate.  The 
attention  of  those  on  board  of  the  ship  was  now  called  to  their 
own  safety.  They  were  in  shallow  water;  the  vessel  struck 
repeatedly,  the  waves  broke  over  her,  and  there  was  danger  of 
her  foundering.  At  length  she  got  into  seven  fathoms  water, 
and  the  wind  lulling,  and  the  night  coming  on,  cast  anchor. 
With  the  darkness  their  anxieties  increased.  The  wind 
whistled,  the  sea  roared ;  the  gloom  was  only  broken  by  the 
ghastly  glare  of  the  foaming  breakers,  the  minds  of  the  sea 
men  were  full  of  dreary  apprehensions,  and  some  of  them 
fancied  they  heard  the  cries  of  their  lost  comrades  mingling 
with  the  uproar  of  the  elements.  For  a  time,  too,  the  rapidly 


68  ASTORIA. 

ebbing  tide  threatened  to  sweep  them  from  their  precarious 
anchorage.  At  length  the  reflux  of  the  tide  and  the  springing 
up  of  the  wind  enabled  them  to  quit  their  dangerous  situation, 
and  take  shelter  in  a  small  bay  within  Cape  Disappointment, 
where  they  rode  in  safety  during  the  residue  of  a  stormy  night, 
and  enjoyed  a  brief  interval  of  refreshing  sleep. 

With  the  light  of  day  returned  their  cares  and  anxieties. 
They  looked  out  from  the  masthead  over  a  wild  coast  and 
wilder  sea,  but  could  discover  no  trace  of  the  two  boats  and 
their  crews  that  were  missing.  Several  of  the  natives  came  on 
board  with  peltries,  but  there  w^s  no  disposition  to  trade. 
They  were  interrogated  by  signs  aftvT  the  lost  boats,  but  could 
not  understand  the  inquiries. 

Parties  now  went  on  shore  and  scoured  the  neighborhood. 
One  of  these  was  headed  by  the  captain.  They  had  not  pro 
ceeded  far  when  they  beheld  a  person  at  a  distance  in  civilized 
g-arb.  As  he  drew  near  he  proved  to  be  Weekes,  the  armorer. 
There  was  a  burst  of  joy,  for  it  was  hoped  his  comrades  were 
near  at  hand.  His  story,  however,  was  one  of  disaster.  He 
and  his  companions  had  found  it  impossible  to  govern  their 
boat,  having  no  rudder,  and  being  beset  by  rapid  and  whirling 
currents  and  boisterous  surges.  After  long  struggling  they 
had  let  her  go  at  the  mercy  of  the  waves,  tossing  about  some 
times  with  her  bow,  sometimes  with  her  broadside  to  the 
surges,  threatened  each  instant  with  destruction,  yet  re 
peatedly  escaping,  until  a  huge  sea  broke  over  and  swamped 
her.  Weekes  was  overwhelmed  by  the  boiling  waves,  but 
emerging  above  the  surface,  looked  round  for  his  companions. 
Aikin  and  Coles  were  not  to  be  seen ;  near  him  were  the  two 
Sandwich  Islanders,  stripping  themselves  of  their  clothing 
that  they  might  swim  more  freely.  He  did  the  same,  and  the 
boat  floating  near  to  him,  he  seized  hold  of  ifc.  The  two 
islanders  joined  him,  and  uniting  their  forces,  they  succeeded 
in  turning  the  boat  upon  her  keel;  then  bearing  down  her 
stern  and  rocking  her,  they  forced  out  so  much  water  that  she 
was  able  to  bear  the  weight  of  a  man  without  sinking.  One  of 
the  islanders  now  got  in  and  in  a  little  while  bailed  out  the 
water  with  his  hands.  The  other  swam  about  and  collected 
the  oars,  and  they  all  three  got  once  more  on  board. 

By  this  time  the  tide  had  swept  them  beyond  the  breakers, 
and  Weekes  called  on  his  companions  to  row  for  land.  They 
were  so  chilled  and  benumbed  by  the  cold,  however,  that  they 
lost  all  heart,  and  absolutely  refused.  Weekes  was  equally 


ASTORIA.  69 

chilled,  but  had  superior  sagacity  and  self-command.  He 
counteracted  the  tendency  to  drowsiness  and  stupor  which  cold 
produces  by  keeping  himself  in  constant  exercise ;  and  seeing 
that  the  vessel  was  advancing,  and  that  everything  depended 
upon  himself,  he  set  to  work  to  scull  the  boat  clear  of  the  bar, 
and  into  quiet  water. 

Toward  midnight  one  of  the  poor  islanders  expired;  his 
companion  threw  himself  on  his  corpse  and  could  not  be  per 
suaded  to  leave  him.  The  dismal  night  wore  away  amid  these 
horrors;  as  the  day  dawned,  Weekes  found  himself  near  the 
land.  He  steered  directly  for  it,  and  at  length,  with  the  aid  of 
the  surf,  ran  his  boat  high  upon  a  sandy  beach. 

Finding  that  one  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders  yet  gave  signs  of 
life,  he  aided  him  to  leave  the  boat,  and  set  out  with  him 
toward  the  adjacent  woods.  The  poor  fellow,  however,  was 
too  feeble  to  follow  him,  and  Weekes  was  soon  obliged  to  aban 
don  him  to  his  fate  and  provide  for  his  own  safety.  Falling 
upon  a  beaten  path,  he  pursued  it,  and  after  a  few  hours  came 
to  a  part  of  the  coast  where,  to  his  surprise  and  joy,  he  beheld 
the  ship  at  anchor,  and  was  met  by  the  captain  and  his  party. 

After  Weekes  had  related  his  adventures,  three  parties  were 
dispatched  to  beat  up  the  coast  in  search  of  the  unfortunate 
islander.  They  returned  at  night  without  success,  though  they 
had  used  the  utmost  diligence.  On  the  following  day  the 
search  was  resumed,  and  the  poor  fellow  was  at  length  dis 
covered  lying  beneath  a  group  of  rocks,  his  legs  swollen,  his 
feet  torn  and  bloody,  from  walking  through  bushes  and  briers, 
and  himself  half  dead  with  cold,  hunger,  and  fatigue.  Weekes 
and  this  islander  were  the  only  survivors  of  the  crew  of  the 
jolly-boat,  and  no  trace  was  ever  discovered  of  Fox  and  his 
party.  Thus  eight  men  were  lost  on  the  first  approach  to  the 
coast— a  commencement  that  cast  a  gloom  over  the  spirits  of 
the  whole  party,  and  was  regarded  by  some  of  the  supersti 
tious  as  an  omen  that  boded  no  good  to  the  enterprise. 

Toward  night  the  Sandwich  Islanders  went  on  shore  to  bury 
the  body  of  their  unfortunate  countryman  who  had  perished 
in  the  boat.  On  arriving  at  the  place  where  it  had  been  left, 
they  dug  a  grave  in  the  sand,  in  which  they  deposited  the 
corpse,  with  a  biscuit  under  one  of  the  arms,  some  lard  under 
the  chin,  and  a  small  quantity  of  tobacco,  as  provisions  for  its 
journey  in  the  land  of  spirits.  Having  covered  the  body  with 
sand  and  flints,  they  kneeled  along  the  grave  in  a  double  row, 
with  their  faces  turned  to  the  east,  while  one  who  officiated  as 


70  ASTORIA. 

a  priest  sprinkled  them  with  water  from  a  hat.  In  so  doing 
he  recited  a  kind  of  prayer  or  invocation,  to  which,  at  inter 
vals,  the  others  made  responses.  Such  were  the  simple  rites 
performed  by  these  poor  savages  at  the  grave  of  their  comrade 
on  the  shores  of  a  strange  land ;  and  when  these  were  done, 
they  rose  and  returned  in  silence  to  the  ship,  without  once 
casting  a  look  behind. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

THE  Columbia,  or  Oregon,  for  the  distance  of  thirty  or  forty 
miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  sea,  is,  properly  speaking,  a 
mere  estuary,  indented  by  deep  bays  so  as  to  vary  from  three 
to  seven  miles  in  width,  and  is  rendered  extremely  intricate 
and  dangerous  by  shoals  reaching  nearly  from  shore  to  shore, 
on  which,  at  times,  the  winds  and  currents  produce  foaming 
and  tumultuous  breakers.  The  mouth  of  the  river  proper  is 
but  about  half  a  mile  wide,  formed  by  the  contracting  shores 
of  the  estuary.  The  entrance  from  the  sea,  as  we  have  already 
observed,  is  bounded  on  the  south  side  by  a  flat,  sandy  spit  of 
land  stretching  into  the  ocean.  This  is  commonly  called  Point 
Adams.  The  opposite  or  northern  side  is  Cape  Disappoint 
ment,  a  kind  of  peninsula,  terminating  in  a  steep  knoll  or 
promontory  crowned  with  a  forest  of  pine  trees,  and  connected 
with  the  main-land  by  a  low  and  narrow  neck.  Immediately 
within  this  cape  is  a  wide,  open  bay,  terminating  at  Chinook 
Point,  so  called  from  a  neighboring  tribe  of  Indians.  This  was 
called  Baker's  Bay,  and  here  the  Tonquin  was  anchored. 

The  natives  inhabiting  the  lower  part  of  the  river,  and  with 
whom  the  company  was  likely  to  have  the  most  frequent  in 
tercourse,  were  divided  at  this  time  into  four  tribes  —  the 
Chinooks,  Clatsops,  Wahkiacums,  and  Cathlamahs.  They 
resembled  each  other  in  person,  dress,  language,  and  manner, 
and  were  probably  from  the  same  stock,  but  broken  into 
tribes,  or  rather  hordes,  by  those  feuds  and  schisms  frequent 
among  Indians. 

These  people  generally  live  by  fishing.  It  is  true  they  occa 
sionally  hunt  the  elk  and  deer,  and  ensnare  the  waterfowl  of 
their  ponds  and  rivers,  but  these  are  casual  luxuries.  Their 
chief  subsistence  is  derived  from  the  salmon  and  other  fish 
which  abound  in  the  Columbia  and  its  tributary  streams, 


ASTORIA.  71 

aided  by  roots  and  herbs,  especially  the  wappatoo,  which  is 
found  on  the  islands  of  the  river. 

As  the  Indians  of  the  plains  who  depend  upon  the  chase  are 
bold  and  expert  riders,  and  pride  themselves  upon  their  horses, 
so  these  piscatory  tribes  of  the  coast  excel  in  the  management 
of  canoes,  and  are  never  more  at  homo  than  when  riding  upon 
the  waves.  Their  canoes  vary  in  form  and  size.  Some  are 
upward  of  fifty  feet  long,  cut  out  of  a  single  tree,  either  fir  or 
white  cedar,  and  capable  of  carrying  thirty  persons.  They 
have  thwart  pieces  from  side  to  side  about  three  inches  thick, 
and  their  gunwales  flare  outward,  so  as  to  cast  off  the  surges 
of  the  waves.  The  bow  and  stern  are  decorated  with  grotesque 
figures  of  men  and  animals,  sometimes  five  feet  in  height. 

In  managing  their  canoes  they  kneel  two  and  two  along  the 
bottom,  sitting  on  their  heels,  and  wielding  paddles  from  four 
to  five  feet  long,  while  one  sits  on  the  stern  and  steers  with  a 
paddle  of  the  same  kind.  The  women  are  equally  expert  with 
the  men  in  managing  the  canoe,  and  generally  take  the  helm. 

It  is  surprising  to  see  with  what  fearless  unconcern  these 
savages  venture  in  their  light  barks  upon  the  roughest  and 
most  tempestuous  seas.  They  seem  to  ride  upon  the  waves 
like  sea-fowl.  Should  a  surge  throw  the  canoe  upon  its  side 
and  endanger  its  overturn,  those  to  windward  lean  over  the 
upper  gunwale,  thrust  their  paddles  deep  into  the  wave,  appa 
rently  catch  the  water  and  force  it  under  the  canoe,  and  by 
this  action  not  merely  regain  an  equilibrium,  but  give  their 
bark  a  vigorous  impulse  forward. 

The  effect  of  different  modes  of  life  upon  the  human  frame 
and  human  character  is  strikingly  instanced  in  the  contrast 
between  the  hunting  Indians  of  the  prairies  and  the  piscatory 
Indians  of  the  sea-coast.  The  former,  continually  on  horse 
back  scouring  the  plains,  gaining  their  food  by  hardy  exercise, 
and  subsisting  chiefly  on  flesh,  are  generally  tall,  sinewy, 
meagre,  but  well  formed,  and  of  bold  and  fierce  deportment ; 
the  latter,  lounging  about  the  river  banks,  or  squatting  and 
curved  up  in  their  canoes,  are  generally  low  in  stature,  ill- 
shaped,  with  crooked  legs,  thick  ankles,  and  broad  flat  feet. 
They  are  inferior  also  in  muscular  power  and  activity,  and  in 
game  qualities  and  appearance,  to  their  hard-riding  brethren 
of  the  prairies. 

Having  premised  these  few  particulars  concerning  the  neigh 
boring  Indians,  we  will  return  to  the  immediate  concerns  of 
the  Tonquin  and  her  crew. 


72  ,  ASTORIA. 

Further  search  was  made  for  Mr.  Fox  and  his  party,  but 
with  no  better  success,  and  they  were  at  length  given  up  as 
lost.  In  the  mean  time  the  captain  and  some  of  the  partners 
explored  the  river  for  some  distance  in  a  large  boat,  to  select  a 
suitable  place  for  the  trading  post.  Their  old  jealousies  and 
differences  continued  ;  they  never  could  coincide  in  their 
choice,  and  the  captain  objected  altogether  to  any  site  so  high 
up  the  river.  They  all  returned,  therefore,  to  Baker's  Bay  in 
no  very  good  humor.  The  partners  proposed  to  examine  the 
opposite  shore,  but  the  captain  was  impatient  of  any  further 
delay.  His  eagerness  to  "get  on"  had  increased  upon  him. 
He  thought  all  these  excursions  a  sheer  loss  of  time,  and  was 
resolved  to  land  at  once,  build  a  shelter  for  the  reception  of 
that  part  of  his  cargo  destined  for  the  use  of  the  settlement, 
and,  having  cleared  his  ship  of  it  and  of  his  irksome  ship 
mates,  to  depart  upon  the  prosecution  of  his  coasting  voyage, 
according  to  orders. 

On  the  following  day,  therefore,  without  troubling  himself 
to  consult  the  partners,  he  landed  in  Baker's  Bay,  and  pro 
ceeded  to  erect  a  shed  for  the  reception  of  the  rigging,  equip 
ments,  and  stores  of  the  schooner  that  was  to  be  built  for  the 
use  of  the  settlement. 

This  dogged  determination  on  the  part  of  the  sturdy  captain 
gave  high  offence  to  Mr.  M'Dougal,  who  now  considered  him 
self  at  the  head  of  the  concern,  as  Mr.  Astor's  representative 
and  proxy.  He  set  off  the  same  day  (April  5th),  accompanied 
by  Mr.  David  Stuart,  for  the  southern  shore,  intending  to  be 
back  by  the  seventh.  Not  having  the  captain  to  contend  with, 
they  soon  pitched  upon  a  spot  which  appeared  to  them  favor 
able  for  the  intended  establishment.  It  was  on  a  point  of  land 
called  Point  George,  having  a  very  good  harbor,  where  vessels, 
not  exceeding  two  hundred  tons  burden,  might  anchor  within 
fifty  yards  of  the  shore. 

After  a  day  thus  profitably  spent  they  recrossed  the  river, 
but  landed  on  the  northern  shore  several  miles  above  the  an 
choring  grounds  of  the  Tonquin,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Chi- 
nooks,  and  visited  the  village  <§f  that  tribe.  Here  they  were 
received  with  great  hospitality  by  the  chief,  who  was  named 
Comcomly,  a  shrewd  old  savage,  with  but  one  eye,  who  will 
occasionally  figure  in  this  narrative.  Each  village  forms  a 
petty  sovereignty,  governed  by  its  own  chief,  who,  however, 
possesses  but  little  authority,  unless  he  be  a  man  of  wealth 
and  substance — that  is  to  say,  possessed  of  canoes,  slaves,  and 


ASTORIA.  73 

wives.  The  greater  number  of  these  the  greater  is  the  chief. 
How  many  wives  this  one-eyed  potentate  maintained  we  are 
not  told,  but  he  certainly  possessed  great  sway,  not  merely  over 
his  own  tribe,  but  over  the  neighborhood. 

Having  mentioned  slaves,  we  would  observe  that  slavery 
exists  among  several  of  the  tribes  beyond  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains.  The  slaves  are  well  treated  while  in  good  health,  but 
occupied  in  all  kinds  of  drudgery.  Should  they  become  use^ 
less,  however,  by  sickness  or  old  age,  they  are  totally  neglect 
ed,  and  left  to  perish ;  nor  is  any  respect  paid  to  their  bodies 
after  death. 

A  singular  custom  prevails,  not  merely  among  the  Chinooks, 
but  among  most  of  the  tribes  about  this  part  of  the  coast, 
which  is  the  flattening  of  the  forehead.  The  process  by  which 
this  deformity  is  effected  commences  immediately  after  birth. 
The  infant  is  laid  in  a  wooden  trough,  by  way  of  cradle.  The 
end  on  which  the  head  reposes  is  higher  than  .the  rest.  A  pad^ 
ding  is  placed  on  the  forehead  of  the  infant,  with  a  piece  of  bark 
above  it,  and  is  pressed  down  by  cords,  which  pass  through 
holes  on  each  side  of  the  trough.  As  the  tightening  of  the 
padding  and  the  pressing  of  the  head  to  the  board  is  gradual, 
the  process  is  said  not  to  be  attended  with  much  pain.  The 
appearance  of  the  infant,  however,  while  in  this  state  of  com 
pression,  is  whimsically  hideous,  and  "its  little  black  eyes," 
we  are  told,  "being  forced  out  by  the  tightness  of  the  band 
ages,  resemble  those  of  a  mouse  choked  in  a  trap." 

About  a  year's  pressure  is  sufficient  to  produce  the  desired 
effect,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the  child  emerges  from  its 
bandages  a  complete  flathead,  and  continues  so  through  life.  It 
must  be  noted,  however,  that  this  flattening  of  the  head  has 
something  in  it  of  aristocratical  significancy,  like  the  crippling 
of  the  feet  among  Chinese  ladies  of  quality.  At  any  rate  it  is 
a  sign  of  freedom.  No  slave  is  permitted  to  bestow  this  envi 
able  deformity  upon  his  child;  all  the  slaves,  therefore,  are 
round -heads. 

With  this  worthy  tribe  of  Chinooks  the  two  partners  passed 
a  part  of  the  day  very  agreeably.  M'Dougal,  who  was  some 
what  vain  of  his  official  rank,  had  given  it  to  be  understood 
that  they  were  two  chiefs  of  a  great  trading  company,  about  to 
be  established  here,  and  the  quick-sighted  though  one-eyed 
chief,  who  was  somewhat  practised  in  traffic  with  white  men, 
immediately  perceived  the  policy  of  cultivating  the  friendship 
of  two  such  important  visitors.  He  regaled  them,  therefore,  to 


74  ASTORIA. 

the  best  of  Ms  ability,  with  abundance  of  salmon  and  wappa- 
too.  The  next  morning,  March  7th,  they  prepared  to  return  to 
the  vessel,  according  to  promise.  They  had  eleven  miles  of 
open  bay  to  traverse ;  the  wind  was  fresh,  the  waves  ran  high. 
Comcomly  remonstrated  with  them  on  the  hazard  to  which 
they  would  be  exposed.  They  were  resolute,  however,  and 
launched  their  boat,  while  the  wary  chieftain  followed  at  some 
short  distance  in  his  canoe.  Scarce  had  they  rode  a  mile 
when  a  wave  broke  over  their  boat  and  upset  it.  They  were 
in  imminent  peril  of  drowning,  especially  Mr.  M'Dougal,  who 
could  not  swim.  Comcomly.  however,  came  bounding  over 
the  waves  in  his  light  canoe,  and  snatched  them  from  a  watery 
grave. 

They  were  taken  on  shore,  and  a  fire  made,  at  which  they 
dried  their  clothes,  after  which  Comcomly  conducted  them 
back  to  his  village.  Here  everything  was  done  that  could  be 
devised  for  their  entertainment  during  three  days  that  they 
were  detained  by  bad  weather.  Comcomly  made  his  people 
perform  antics  before  them ;  and  his  wives  and  daughters  en 
deavored,  by  all  the  soothing  and  endearing  arts  of  women  to 
find  favor  in  their  eyes.  Some  even  painted  their  bodies  with 
red  clay,  and  anointed  themselves  with  fish  oil,  to  give  addi 
tional  lustre  to  their  charms.  Mr.  M'Dougal  seems  to  have  had  a 
heart  susceptible  to  the  influence  of  the  gentler  sex.  Whether 
or  no  it  was  first  touched  on  this  occasion  we  do  not  learn ;  but 
it  will  be  found,  in  the  course  of  this  work,  that  one  of  the 
daughters  of  the  hospitable  Comcomly  eventually  made  a  con 
quest  of  the  great  eri  of  the  American  Fur  Company. 

When  the  weather  had  moderated  and  the  sea  become  tran 
quil,  the  one-eyed  chief  of  the  Chinooks  manned  his  state 
canoe,  and  conducted  his  guests  in  safety  to  the  ship,  where 
they  were  welcomed  with  joy,  for  apprehensions  had  been  felt 
for  their  safety.  Comcomly  and  his  people  were  then  enter 
tained  on  board  of  the  Tonquin,  and  liberally  rewarded  for 
their  hospitality  and  services.  They  returned  home  highly 
satisfied,  promising  to  remain  faithful  friends  and  allies  of  the 
white  men. 


ASTORIA.  75 


CHAPTER  IX. 

FROM  the  report  made  by  the  two  exploring  partners,  it 
was  determined  that  Point  George  should  be  the  site  of  the 
trading  house.  These  gentlemen,  it  is  true,  were  not  per 
fectly  satisfied  with  the  place,  and  were  desirous  of  continu 
ing  their  search;  but  Captain  Thorn  was  impatient  to  land 
his  cargo  and  continue  his  voyage,  and  protested  against  any 
more  of  what  he  termed  "  sporting  excursions." 

Accordingly,  on  the  12th  of  April  the  launch  was  freighted 
with  all  things  necessary  for  the  purpose,  and  sixteen  persons 
departed  in  her  to  commence  the  establishment,  leaving  the 
Tonquin  to  follow  as  soon  as  the  harbor  could  be  sounded. 

Crossing  the  wide  mouth  of  the  river,  the  party  landed,  and 
encamped  at  the  bottom  of  a  small  bay  within  Point  George. 
The  situation  chosen  for  the  fortified  post  was  on  an  elevation 
facing  to  the  north,  with  the  wide  estuary,  its  sand-bars  and 
tumultuous  breakers  spread  out  before  it,  and  the  promontory 
of  Cape  Disappointment,  fifteen  miles  distant,  closing  the  pros 
pect  to  the  left.  The  surrounding  country  was  in  all  the  fresh 
ness  of  spring;  the  trees  were  in  the  young  leaf,  the  weather 
was  superb,  and  everything  looked  delightful  to  men  just 
emancipated  from  a  long  confinement  on  shipboard.  The  Ton 
quin  shortly  afterward  made  her  way  through  the  intricate 
channel,  and  came  to  anchor  in  the  little  bay,  and  was  saluted 
from  the  encampment  with  three  volleys  of  musketry  and 
three  cheers.  She  returned  the  salute  with  three  cheers  and 
three  guns. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  cutting  down  trees,  clearing  away 
thickets,  and  marking  out  the  place  for  the  residence,  store 
house,  and  powder  magazine,  which  were  to  be  built  of  logs 
and  covered  with  bark.  Others  landed  the  timbers  intended 
for  the  frame  of  the  coasting  vessel,  and  proceeded  to  put 
them  together,  while  others  prepared  a  garden  spot,  and  sowed 
the  seeds  of  various  vegetables. 

The  next  thought  was  to  give  a  name  to  the  embryo  metro 
polis  \  the  one  that  naturally  presented  itself  was  that  of  the 
projector  and  supporter  of  the  whole  enterprise.  It  nras  ac 
cordingly  named  ASTORIA. 

The   neighboring  Indians  now  swarmed  about  the  place. 


76  ASTORIA. 

Some  brought  a  few  land-otter  and  sea-otter  ski  .  /,  barter, 
but  in  very  scanty  parcels ;  the  greater  number  ;,me  prying 
about  to  gratify  their  curiosity,  for  they  are  said  DO  be  imper 
tinently  inquisitive ;  while  not  a  few  came  with  nt  other  design 
than  to  pilfer ;  the  laws  of  meum  and  tuum  bein^  but  slightly 
respected  among  them.  Some  of  them  beset  the  ship  in  their 
canoes  among  whom  was  the  Chinook  chief  Comcomly  and 
his  liege  subjects.  These  were  well  received  by  Mr.  M'Dougal, 
who  was  delighted  with  an  opportunity  of  entering  upon  his 
functions  and  acquiring  importance  in  tne  eyes  of  his  future 
neighbors.  The  confusion  thus  produced  on  board,  and  the 
derangement  of  the  cargo  caused  by  this  petty  trade,  stirred 
the  spleen  of  the  captain,  who  had  a  sovereign  contempt  for 
the  one-eyed  chieftain  and  all  his  crew.  He  complained  loudly 
of  having  his  ship  lumbered  by  a  host  of  "Indian  ragamuf 
fins,  "  who  had  not  a  skin  to  dispose  of,  and  at  length  put  his 
positive  interdict  upon  all  trafficking  on  board.  Upon  this 
Mr.  M'Dougal  was  fain  to  land,  and  establish  his  quarters  at 
the  encampment,  where  he  could  exercise  his  rights  and  enjoy 
his  dignities  without  control. 

The  feud,  however,  between  these  rival  powers  still  con 
tinued,  but  was  chiefly  carried  on  by  letter.  Day  after  day 
and  week  after  week  elapsed,  yet  the  storehouses  requisite  for 
the  reception  of  the  cargo  were  not  completed,  and  the  ship 
was  detained  in  port ;  while  the  captain  WAS  teased  by  frequent 
requisitions  for  various  articles  for  the  use  of  the  establish 
ment,  or  the  trade  with  the  natives.  An  angry  correspondence 
took  place,  in  which  he  complained  bitterly  of  the  time  wasted 
in  "smoking  and  sporting  parties,"  as  he  termed  the  recon- 
noitering  expeditions,  and  in  clearing  and  preparing  meadow 
ground  and  turnip  patches  instead  of  dispatching  his  ship. 
At  length  all  these  jarring  matters  were  adjusted,  if  not  to  the 
satisfaction,  at  least  to  the  acquiescence'  of  all  parties.  The 
part  of  the  cargo  destined  for  the  use  of  Astoria  was  landed, 
and  the  ship  left  free  to  proceed  on  her  voyage. 

As  the  Tonquin  was  to  coast  to  the  north,  to  trade  for  pel 
tries  at  the  different  harbors,  and  to  touch  at  Astoria  on  her 
return  in  the  autumn,  it  was  unanimously  determined  that 
Mr.  M'Kay  should  go  in  her  as  supercargo,  taking  with  him 
Mr.  Lewis  as  ship's  clerk.  On  the  first  of  June  the  ship  got 
under  way,  and  dropped  down  to  Baker's  Bay,  where  she  was 
detained  for  a  few  days  by  a  head  wind ;  but  early  in  the 
morning  of  the  fifth  stood  out  to  sea  with  a  fine  breeze  and 


ASTORIA.  77 

swelling  canvas,  and  swept  off  gayly  on  her  fatal  voyage,  from 
which  she  was  never  to  return ! 

On  reviewing  the  conduct  of  Captain  Thorn,  and  examining 
his  peevish  and  somewhat  whimsical  correspondence,  the  im 
pression  left  upon  our  mind  is  upon  the  whole  decidedly  in  his 
favor.  While  we  smile  at  the  simplicity  of  his  heart  and  the 
narrowness  of  his  views,  which  made  him  regard  everything 
out  of  the  direct  path  of  his  daily  duty,  and  the  rigid  exigen 
cies  of  the  service,  as  trivial  and  impertinent,  which  inspired 
him  with  contempt  for  the  swelling  vanity  of  some  of  his  coad 
jutors,  and  the  literary  exercises  and  curious  researches  of 
others,  we  cannot  but  applaud  that  strict  and  conscientious 
devotion  to  the  interests  of  his  employer,  and  to  what  he  con 
sidered  the  true  objects  of  the  enterprise  in^which  he  was 
engaged.  He  certainly  was  to  blame  occasionally  for  the 
asperity  of  his  manners  and  the  arbitrary  nature  of  his  meas 
ures,  yet  much  that  is  exceptionable  in  this  part  of  his  eon- 
duct  may  be  traced  to  rigid  notions  of  duty,  acquired  in  thai 
tyrannical  school,  a  ship  of  war,  and  to  the  construction  given 
by  his  companions  to  the  orders  of  Mr.  Astor,  so  little  in  con 
formity  with  his  own.  His  mind,  too,  appears  to  have  become 
almost  diseased  by  the  suspicions  he  had  formed  as  to  the  loy 
alty  of  his  associates  and  the  nature  of  their  ultimate  designs ; 
yet  on  this  point  thero  were  circumstances  to,  in  some  meas 
ure,  justify  him.  The  relations  between  the  United  States 
and  Great  Britain  were  at  that  time  in  a  critical  state ;  in  fact, 
the  two  countries  were  on  the  eve  of  a  war.  Several  of  the 
partners  were  British  subjects,  and  might  be  ready  to  desert 
the  flag  under  which  they  acted,  should  a  war  take  place. 
Their  application  to  the  British  minister  at  New  York  shows 
the  dubious  feeling  with  which  they  had  embarked  in  the 
present  enterprise.  They  had  been  in  the  employ  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  and  might  be  disposed  to  rally  again 
under  that  association,  should  events  threaten  the  prosperity 
of  this  embryo  establishment  of  Mr.  Astor.  Besides,  we  have 
the  fact,  averred  to  us  by  one  of  the  partners,  that  some  of 
them,  who  were  young  and  heedless,  took  a  mischievous  and 
unwarrantable  pleasure  in  playing  upon  the  jealous  temper  of 
the  captain,  and  affecting  mysterious  consultations  and  sinister 
movements. 

These  circumstances  are  cited  in  palliation  of  the  doubts  and 
surmises  of  Captain  Thorn,  which  might  otherwise  appear 
strange  and  unreasonable.  That  most  of  the  partners  were 


78  ASTORIA. 

perfectly  upright  and  faithful  in  the  discharge  of  the  trust 
reposed  in  them  we  are  fully  satisfied ;  still  the  honest  captain 
was  not  invariably  wrong  in  his  suspicions;  and  that  he 
formed  a  pretty  just  opinion  of  the  integrity  of  that  aspiring 
personage,  Mr.  M'Dougal,  will  be  substantially  proved  in  the 
sequel. 


CHAPTER  X. 

WHILE  the  Astorians  were  busily  occupied  in  completing 
ttieir  factory  and  fort,  a  report  was  brought  to  them  by  an 
Indian  from  the  upper  part  of  the  river,  that  a  party  of  thirty 
white  men  had  appeared  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  and 
were  actually  building  houses  at  the  second  rapids.  This  in 
formation  caused  much  disquiet.  We  have  already  mentioned 
that  the  Northwest  Company  had  established  posts  to  the  west 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  a  district  called  by  them  New 
Caledonia,  which  extended  from  lat.  52°  to  55°  north,  being 
within  Jie  British  territories.  It  was  now  apprehended  that 
they  were  advancing  within  the  American  limits,  and  were 
endeavoring  to  seize  upon  the  upper  part  of  the  river  and  fore 
stall  the  American  Fur  Company  in  the  surrounding  trade ;  in 
which  case  bloody  feuds  might  be  anticipated,  such  as  had 
prevailed  between  the  rival  fur  companies  in  former  days. 

A  reconnoitring  party  was  sent  up  the  river  to  ascertain  the 
truth  of  the  report.  They  ascended  to  the  foot  of  the  first 
rapid,  ah  out  two  hundred  miles,  but  could  hear  nothing  of  any 
white  men  being  in  the  neighborhood. 

Not  long  after  their  return,  however,  further  accounts  were 
received,  by  two  wandering  Indians,  which  established  the 
fact  that  the  Northwest  Company  had  actually  erected  a  trad 
ing  house  on  the  Spokan  River,  which  falls  into  the  north 
branch  of  the  Columbia. 

What  rendered  this  intelligence  the  more  disquieting  was 
the  inability  of  the  Astorians,  in  their  present  reduced  state  as 
to  numbers,  and  the  exigencies  of  their  new  establishment,  to 
furnish  detachments  to  penetrate  the  country  in  different  di 
rections,  and  fix  the  posts  necessary  to  secure  the  interior 
trade. 

It  was  resolved,  however,  at  any  rate,  to  advance  a  counter' 


ASTORIA.  79 

check  to  this  post  on  the  Spokan,  and  one  of  the  partners,  Mr. 
David  Stuart,  prepared  to  set  out  for  the  purpose  with  eight 
men  and  a  small  assortment  of  goods.  He  was  to  be  guided  by 
the  two  Indians,  who  knew  the  country,  and  promised  to  take 
him  to  a  place  not  far  from  the  Spokan  River,  and  in  a  neigh 
borhood  abounding  with  beaver.  Here  he  was  to  establish 
himself  and  to  remain  for  a  time,  provided  he  found  the  situa" 
lion  advantageous  and  the  natives  friendly. 

On  the  15th  of  July,  when  Mr.  Stuart  was  nearly  ready  to 
embark,  a  canoe  made  its  appearance,  standing  for  the  narbor, 
and  manned  by  nine  white  men.  Much  speculation  took  place 
who  these  strangers  could  be,  for  it  was  too  soon  to  expect  their 
own  people,  under  Mr.  Hunt,  who  were  to  cross  the  continent. 
As  the  canoe  drew  near,  the  British  standard  was  distinguished ; 
on  coming  to  land,  one  of  the  crew  stepped  on  shore,  and  an 
nounced  himself  as  Mr.  David  Thompson,  astronomer,  and 
partner  of  the  Northwest  Company.  According  to  his  ac 
count,  he  had  set  out  in  the  preceding  year  with  a  tolerably 
strong  party,  and  a  supply  of  Indian  goods,  to  cross  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  A  part  of  his  people,  however,  had  deserted  him 
on  the  eastern  side,  and  returned  with  the  goods  to  the  nearest 
northwest  post.  He  had  persisted  in  crossing  the  mountains 
with  eight  men,  who  remained  true  to  him.  They  had  trav 
ersed  the  higher  regions,  and  ventured  near  the  source  of  the 
Columbia,  where,  in  the  spring,  they  had  constructed  a  ceda*' 
canoe,  the  same  in  which  they  had  reached  Astoria. 

This,  in  fact,  was  the  party  dispatched  by  the  Northwest 
Company  to  anticipate  Mr.  Astor  in  his  intention  of  effecting  a 
settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River.  It  appears, 
from  information  subsequently  derived  from  other  sources, 
that  Mr.  Thompson  had  pushed  on  his  course  with  great  haste, 
calling  at  all  the  Indian  villages  in  his  march,  presenting  them 
with  British  flags,  and  even  planting  them  at  the  forks  of  the 
rivers,  proclaiming  formally  that  he  took  possession  of  the 
country  in  the  name  of  the  King  of  Great  Britain  for  the 
Northwest  Company.  As  his  original  plan  was  defeated  by 
the  desertion  of  his  people,  it  is  probable  that  he  descended  the 
river  simply  to  reconnoitre,  and  ascertain  whether  an  Ameri 
can  settlement  had  been  commenced. 

Mr.  Thompson  was,  no  doubt,  the  first  white  man  who  de 
scended  the  northern  branch  of  the  Columbia  from  so  near  its 
source.  Lewis  and  Clarke  struck  the  main  body  of  the  river 
at  the  forks,  about  four  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth.  They 


80  ASTORIA. 

entered  it  from  Lewis  Eiver,  its  southern  branch,  and  thence 
descended. 

Though  Mr.  Thompson  could  be  considered  as  little  better 
than  a  spy  in  the  camp,  he  was  received  with  great  cordiality 
by  Mr.  M'Dougal,  who  had  a  lurking  feeling  of  companionship 
and  good- will  for  all  of  the  Northwest  Company.  He  invited 
him  to  head- quarters,  where  he  and  his  people  were  hospitably 
entertained.  Nay,  further;  being  somewhat  in  extremity,  ?.ie 
was  furnished  by  Mr.  M'Dougal  with  goods  and  provisions  for 
his  journey  back  across  the  mountains,  much  against  the 
wishes  of  Mr.  David  Stuart,  who  did  not  think  the  object  of 
his  visit  entitled  him  to  any  favor. 

On  the  23d  of  July  Mr.  Stuart  set  out  upon  his  expedition  to 
the  interior.  His  party  consisted  of  four  of  the  clerks,  Messrs. 
Fillet,  Ross,  M'Lennon,  and  Montigny,  two  Canadian  voya- 
geurs,  and  two  natives  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  They  had 
three  canoes  well  laden  with  provisions,  and  with  goods  and 
necessaries  for  a  trading  establishment. 

Mr.  Thompson  and  his  party  set  out  in  company  with  them, 
it  being  his  intention  to  proceed  direct  to  Montreal.  The  part 
ners  at  Astoria  forwarded  by  him  a  short  letter  to  Mr.  Astor 
informing  him  of  their  safe  arrival  at  the  mouth  of  the  Colum 
bia,  and  that  they  had  not  yet  heard  of  Mr.  Hunt.  The  little 
squadron  of  canoes  set  sail  with  a  favorable  breeze,  and  soon 
passed  Tongue  Point,  a  long,  high,  and  rocky  promontory, 
covered  with  trees,  and  stretching  far  into  the  river.  Opposite 
to  this,  on  the  northern  shore,  is  a  deep  bay,  where  the  Colum 
bia  anchored  at  the  time  of  the  discovery,  and  which  is  still 
called  Gray's  Bay,  from  the  name  of  her  commander. 

From  hence  the  general  course  of  the  river  for  about  seventy 
miles  was  nearly  southeast,  varying  in  breadth  according  to 
its  bays  and  indentations,  and  navigable  for  vessels  of  three 
hundred  tons.  The  shores  were  in  some  places  high  and  rocky, 
with  low,  marshy  islands  at  their  feet,  subject  to  inundation, 
and  covered  with  willows,  poplars,  and  other  trees  that  love 
an  alluvial  soil.  Sometimes  the  mountains  receded,  and  gave 
place  to  beautiful  plains  and  noble  forests.  While  the  river 
margin  was  richly  fringed  with  trees  of  deciduous  foliage,  the 
rough  uplands  were  crowned  by  majestic  pines,  and  firs  of 
gigantic  size,  some  towering  to  the  height  of  between  two  and 
three  hundred  feet,  with  proportionate  circumference.  Out  of 
these  the  Indians  wrought  their  great  canoes  and  pirogues. 

At  one  part  of  the  river,  they  passed,  on  the  northern  side, 


ASTORIA.  81 

an  isolated  rock,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  rising 
from  a  low,  marshy  soil,  and  totally  disconnected  with  the  ad 
jacent  mountains.  This  was  held  in  great  reverence  by  the 
neighboring  Indians,  being  one  of  their  principal  places  of 
sepulture.  The  same  provident  care  for  the  deceased  that  pre 
vails  among,  the  hunting  tribes  of  the  prairies  is  observable 
among  the  piscatory  tribes  of  the  rivers  and  sea-coast.  Among 
the  former  the  favorite  horse  of  the  hunter  is  buried  with  him 
in  the  same  funereal  mound,  and  his  bow  and  arrows  are  laid 
by  his  side,  that  he  may  be  perfectly  equipped  for  the  ' '  happy 
hunting  grounds"  of  the  land  of  spirits.  Among  the  latter, 
the  Indian  is  wrapped  in  his  mantle  of  skins,  laid  in  his  canoe, 
with  his  paddle,  his  fishing  spear,  and  other  implements  beside 
him,  and  placed  aloft  on  some  rock  or  other  eminence  over 
looking  the  river,  or  bay,  or  lake,  that  he  has  frequented.  He 
is  thus  fitted  out  to  launch  away  upon  those  placid  streams 
and  sunny  lakes,  stocked  with  all  kinds  of  fish  and  waterfowl, 
which  are  prepared  in  the  next  world  for  those  who  have  ac 
quitted  themselves  as  good  sons,  good  fathers,  good  husbands, 
and,  above  all,  good  fishermen,  during  their  mortal  sojourn. 

The  isolated  rock  in  question  presented  a  spectacle  of  the 
kind,  numerous  dead  bodies  being  deposited  in  canoes  on  its 
summit;  while  on  poles  around  were  trophies,  or,  rather, 
funereal  offerings  of  trinkets,  garments,  baskets  of  roots,  and 
other  articles  for  the  use  of  the  deceased.  A  reverential  feel 
ing  protects  these  sacred  spots  from  robbery  or  insult.  The 
friends  of  the  deceased,  especially  the  women,  repair  here  at 
sunrise  and  sunset  for  some  time  after  his  death,  singing  his 
funeral  dirge,  and  uttering  loud  wailings  and  lamentations. 

From  the  number  of  dead  bodies  in  canoes  observed  upon 
this  rock  by  the  first  explorers  of  the  river,  it  received  the 
name  of  Mount  Coffin,  which  it  continues  to  bear. 

Beyond  this  rock  they  passed  the  mouth  of  a  river  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Columbia,  which  appeared  to  take  its  rise  in 
a  distant  mountain  covered  with  snow.  The  Indian  name  of 
this  river  was  the  Cowleskee.  Some  miles  further  on  they 
came  to  the  great  Columbian  valley,  so  called  by  Lewis  and 
Clarke.  It  is  sixty  miles  in  width,  and  extends  far  to  the 
south-southeast  between  parallel  ridges  of  mountains,  which 
bound  it  on  the  east  and  west.  Through  the  centre  of  this 
valley  flowed  a  large  and  beautiful  stream  called  the  Walla- 
mot,*  which  came  wandering  for  several  hundred  miles, 

*  Pronounced  Wallamot,  the  accent  being  upon  the  second  syllable. 


82  ASTORIA. 

through  a  yet  unexplored  wilderness.  The  sheltered  situation 
of  this  immense  valley  had  an  obvious  effect  upon  the  climate. 
It  was  a  region  of  great  beauty  and  luxuriance,  with  lakes  and 
pools,  and  green  meadows  shaded  by  noble  groves.  Various 
tribes  were  said  to  reside  in  this  valley  and  along  the  banks 
of  the  Wallamot. 

About  eight  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamot  the  lit 
tle  squadron  arrived  at  Vancouver's  Point,  so  called  in  honor 
of  that  celebrated  voyager  by  his  lieutenant  (Broughton)  when 
he  explored  the  river.  This  point  is  said  to  present  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  scenes  on  the  Columbia— a  lovely  meadow,  with 
a  silver  sheet  of  limpid  water  in  the  centre,  enlivened  by  wild 
fowl,  a  range  of  hills  crowned  by  forests,  while  the  prospect  is 
closed  by  Mount  Hood,  a  magnificent  mountain  rising  into  a 
lofty  peak,  and  covered  with  snow ;  the  ultimate  landmark  of 
the  first  explorers  of  the  river. 

Point  Vancouver  is  about  one  hundred  miles  from  Astoria. 
Here  the  reflux  of  the  tide  ceases  to  be  perceptible.  To  this 
place  vessels  of  two  and  three  hundred  tons  burden  may  as 
cend.  The  party  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Stuart  had  been 
three  or  four  days  in  reaching  it,  though  we  have  forborne  to 
notice  their  daily  progress  and  nightly  encampments. 

From  Point  Vancouver  the  river  turned  toward  the  north 
east,  and  became  more  contracted  and  rapid,  with  occasional 
islands  and  frequent  sand-banks.  These  islands  are  furnished 
with  a  number  of  ponds,  and  at  certain  seasons  abound  with 
swan,  geese,  brand  ts,  cranes,  gulls,  plover,  and  other  wild 
fowl.  The  shores,  too,  are  low,  and  closely  wooded,  and 
covered  with  such  an  undergrowth  of  vines  and  rushes  as  to 
be  almost  impassable. 

About  thirty  miles  above  Point  Vancouver  the  mountains 
again  approach  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  which  is  bordered 
by  stupendous  precipices,  covered  with  the  fir  and  the  white 
cedar,  and  enlivened  occasionally  by  beautiful  cascades  leap 
ing  from  a  great  height,  and  sending  up  wreaths  of  vapor. 
One  of  these  precipices,  or  .cliffs,  is  curiously  worn  by  time  and 
weather  so  as  to  have  the  appearance  of  a  ruined  fortress,  with 
towers  and  battlements  beetling  high  above  the  river ;  while 
two  small  cascades,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height,  pitch 
down  from  the  fissures  of  the  rocks. 

The  turbulence  and  rapidity  of  the  current  continually 
augmenting  as  they  advanced,  gave  the  voyagers  intimation 
that  they  were  approaching  the  great  obstructions  of  the  river, 


•  ASTORIA.  83 

and  at  length  they  arrived  at  Strawberry  Island,  so  called  by 
Lewis  and  Clarke,  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  first  rapid.  As 
this  part  of  the  Columbia  will  be  repeatedly  mentioned  in  the 
course  of  this  work,  being  the  scene  of  some  of  its  incidents, 
.we  shall  give  a  general  description  of  it  in  this  place. 

The  falls  or  rapids  of  the  Columbia  are  situated  about  one 
hundred  and  eighty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The 
v  first  is  a  perpendicular  cascade  of  twenty  feet,  after  which 
there  is  a  swift  descent  for  a  mile,  between  islands  of  hard 
black  rock,  to  another  pitch  of  eight  feet  divided  by  two  rocks. 
About  two  and  a  half  miles  below  this  the  river  expands  into  a 
wide  basin,  seemingly  dammed  up  by  a  perpendicular  ridge  of 
black  rock.  A  current,  however,  sets  diagonally  to  the  left  of 
this  rocky  barrier,  where  there  is  a  chasm  forty-five  yards  in 
width.  Through  this  the  whole  body  of  the  river  roars  along, 
swelling  and  whirling  and  boiling  for  some  distance  in  the 
wildest  confusion.  Through  this  tremendous  channel,  the  in 
trepid  explorers  of  the  river,  Lewis  and  Clarke,  passed  safely 
in  their  boats ;  the  danger  being,  not  from  the  rocks,  but  from 
the  great  surges  and  whirlpools. 

At  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  foot  of  this 
narrow  channel  is  a  rapid,  formed  by  two  rocky  islands ;  and 
two  miles  beyond  is  a  second  great  fall,  over  a  ledge  of  rocks 
twenty  feet  high,  extending  nearly  from  shore  to  shore.  The 
river  is  again  compressed  into  a  channel  from  fifty  to  a  hun 
dred  feet  wide,  worn  through  a  rough  bed  of  hard  black  rock, 
along  which  it  boils  and  roars  with  great  fury  for  the  distance 
of  three  miles.  This  is  called  "  The  Long  Narrows." 

Here  is  the  great  fishing  place  of  the  Columbia.  In  the  spring 
of  the  year,  when  the  water  is  high,  the  salmon  ascend  the  river 
in  incredible  numbers.  As  they  pass  through  this  narrow 
strait,  the  Indians,  standing  on  the  rocks,  or  on  the  end  of 
wooden  stages  projecting  from  the  banks,  scoop  them  up  with 
small  nets  distended  on  hoops  and  attached  to  long  handles, 
and  cast  them  on  the  shore. 

They  are  then  cured  and  packed  in  a  peculiar  manner. 
After  having  been  opened  and  disembowelled,  they  are  ex 
posed  to  the  sun  on  scaffolds  erected  on  the  river  banks. 
When  sufficiently  dry,  they  are  pounded  fine  between  two 
stones,  pressed  into  the  smallest  compass,  and  packed  in 
baskets  or  bales  of  grass  matting,  about  two  feet  long  and  one 
in  diameter,  lined  with  the  cured  skin  of  a  salmon.  The  top 
is  likewise  covered  with  fish-skins,  secured  by  cords  passing 


84  ASTORIA. 

through  holes  in  the  edge  of  the  basket.  Packages  are  then 
made,  each  containing  twelve  of  these  bales,  seven  at  bottom, 
five  at  top,  pressed  close  to  each  other,  with  the  corded  side 
upward,  wrapped  in  mats  and  corded.  These  are  placed  in 
dry  situations,  and  again  covered  with  matting.  Each  of 
these  packages  contains  from  ninety  to  a  hundred  pounds  of 
dried  fish,  which  in  this  state  will  keep  sound  for  several 
years.* 

We  have  given  this  process  at  some  length,  as  furnished  by 
the  first  explorers,  because  it  marks  a  practised  ingenuity  in 
preparing  articles  of  traffic  for  a  market,  seldom  seen  among 
our  aboriginals.  For  like  reasons  we  would  make  especial 
mention  of  the  village  of  Wish-ram,  at  the  head  of  the  Long 
Narrows,  as  being  a  solitary  instance  of  an  aboriginal  trading 
mart,  or  emporium.  Here  the  salmon  caught  in  the  neighbor 
ing  rapids  were  "  warehoused, "  to  await  customers.  Hither 
the  tribes  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  repaired  with  the 
fish  of  the  sea-coast,  the  roots,  berries,  and  especially  the  wap- 
patoo,  gathered  in  the  lower  parts  of  the  river,  together  with 
goods  and  trinkets  obtained  from  the  ships  which  casually  visit 
the  coast.  Hither  also  the  tribes  from  the  Rocky  Mountains 
brought  down  horses,  bear-grass,  quamash,  and  other  com 
modities  of  the  interior.  The  merchant  fishermen  at  the  falls 
acted  as  middlemen  or  factors,  and  passed  the  objects  of 
traffic,  as  it  were,  cross-handed:  trading  away  part  of  the 
wares  received  from  the  mountain  tribes  to  those  of  the  river 
and  the  plains,  and  vice  versa:  their  packages  of  pounded 
salmon  entered  largely  into  the  system  of  barter,  and  being 
carried  off  in  opposite  directions  found  their  way  to  the  savage 
hunting  camps  far  in  the  interior,  and  to  the  casual  white 
traders  who  touched  upon  the  coast. 

We  have  already  noticed  certain  contrarieties  of  character 
between  the  Indian  tribes,  produced  by  their  diet  and  mode  of 
life;  and  nowhere  are  they  more  apparent  than  about  the  falls 
of  the  Columbia.  The  Indians  of  this  great  fishing  mart  are 
represented  by  the  earliest  explorers  as  sleeker  and  fatter,  but 
less  hardy  and  active,  than  the  tribes  of  the  mountains  and 
the  prairies,  who  live  by  hunting,  or  of  the  upper  parts  of  the 
river,  where  fish  is  scanty  and  the  inhabitants  must  eke  out 
their  subsistence  by  digging  roots  or  chasing  the  deer.  In 
deed,  whenever  an  Indian  of  the  upper  country  is  too  lazy  to 

*  Lewis  and  Clarke,  vol.  ii.  p.  32. 


ASTORIA.  85 

hunt,  yet  is  fond  of  good  living,  he  repairs  to  the  falls,  to  live 
in  abundance  without  labor. 

"By  such  worthless  dogs  as  these,"  says  an  honest  trader  in 
his  journal,  which  now  lies  before  us,  "by  such  worthless 
dogs  as  these  are  these  noted  fishing  places  peopled,  which, 
like  our  great  cities,  may  with  propriety  be  called  the  head 
quarters  of  vitiated  principles. " 

.  The  habits  of  trade  and  the  avidity  of  gain  have  their  cor 
rupting  effects  even  in  the  wilderness,  as  may  be  instanced  in 
the  members  of  this  aboriginal  emporium;  for  the  same 
journalist  denounces  them  as  ' '  saucy,  impudent  rascals,  who 
will  steal  when  they  can,  and  pillage  whenever  a  weak  party 
falls  in  their  power. " 

That  he  does  not  belie  them  will  be  evidenced  hereafter,  when 
we  have  occasion  again  to  touch  at  Wish-ram  and  navigate 
the  rapids.  In  the  present  instance  the  travellers  effected  the 
laborious  ascent  of  this  part  of  the  river,  with  all  its  various 
portages,  without  molestation,  and  once  more  launched  away 
in  smooth  water  above  the  high  falls. 

The  two  parties  continued  together  without  material  impedi 
ment,  for  three  or  four  hundred  miles  further  up  the  Colum 
bia;  Mr.  Thompson  appearing  to  take  great  interest  in  the 
success  of  Mr.  Stuart,  and  pointing  out  places  favorable,  as 
he  said,  to  the  establishment  of  his  contemplated  trading  post. 

Mr.  Stuart  who  distrusted  his  sincerity,  at  length  pretended 
to  adopt  his  advice,  and,  taking  leave  of  him,  remained  as  if 
to  establish  himself,  while  the  other  proceeded  on  his  course 
toward  the  mountains.  No  sooner,  however,  had  he  fairly  de 
parted  than  Mr.  Stuart  again  pushed  forward,  under  guidance 
of  the  two  Indians,  nor  did  he  stop  until  he  had  arrived  within 
about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  of  theSpokan  River,  which 
he  considered  near  enough  to  keep  the  rival  establishment  in 
check. 

The  place  which  he  pitched  upon  for  his  trading  post  was  a 
point  of  land  about  three  miles  in  length  and  two  in  breadth, 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Oakinagan  with  the  Columbia. 
The  former  is  a  river  which  has  its  source  in  a  considerable 
lake  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  west  of  the  point  of 
junction.  The  two  rivers,  about  the  place  of  their  confluence, 
are  bordered  by  immense  prairies  covered  with  herbage  but 
destitute  of  trees.  The  point  itself  was  ornamented  with  wild 
flowers  of  every  hue,  in  which  innumerable  humming-birds 
were  "banqueting  nearly  the  live-long  day." 


80  ASTORIA. 

The  situation  of  this  point  appeared  to  be  well  adapted  for 
a  trading  post.  The  climate  was  salubrious,  the  soil  fertile, 
the  rivers  well  stocked  with  fish,  the  natives  peaceable  and 
friendly.  There  were  easy  communications  with  the  interior 
by  the  upper  waters  of  the  Columbia  and  the  lateral  stream 
of  the  Oakinagan,  while  the  downward  current  of  the  Colum 
bia  furnished  a  highway  to  Astoria. 

Availing  himself,  therefore,  of  the  driftwood  which  had 
collected  in  quantities  in  the  neighboring  bends  of  the  river, 
Mr.  Stuart  and  his  men  set  to  work  to  erect  a  house,  which  in 
a  little  while  was  sufficiently  completed  for  their  residence ; 
and  thus  was  established  the  first  interior  post  of  the  com 
pany.  We  will  now  return  to  notice  the  progress  of  affairs  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

THE  sailing  of  the  Tonquin,  and  the  departure  of  Mr.  David 
Stuart  and  his  detachment,  had  produced  a  striking  effect  on 
affairs  at  Astoria.  The  natives  who  had  swarmed  about  the 
place  began  immediately  to  drop  off,  until  at  length  not  an 
Indian  was  to  be  seen.  This,  at  first,  was  attributed  to  the 
want  of  peltries  with  which  to  trade ;  but  in  a  little  while  the 
mystery  was  explained  in  a  more  alarming  manner.  A  con 
spiracy  was  said  to  be  on  foot  among  the  neighboring  tribes 
to  make  a  combined  attack  upon  the  white  men,  now  that 
they  were  so  reduced  in  number.  For  this  purpose  there  had 
been  a  gathering  of  warriors  in  a  neighboring  bay,  under  pre 
text  of  fishing  for  sturgeon;  and  fleets  of  canoes  were  expected 
to  join  them  from  the  north  and  south.  Even  Comcomly,  the 
one-eyed  chief,  notwithstanding  his  professed  friendship  for 
Mr.  M'Dougal,  was  strongly  suspected  of  being  concerned  in 
this  general  combination. 

Alarmed  at  rumors  of  this  impending  danger,  the  Astorians 
suspended  their  regular  labor,  and  set  to  work,  with  all  haste, 
to  throw  up  temporary  works  for  refuge  and  defence.  In  the 
course  of  a  few  days  they  surrounded  their  dwelling-house  and 
magazines  with  a  picket  fence  ninety  feet  square,  flanked  by 
two  bastions,  on  which  were  mounted  four  four-pounders. 
Every  day  they  exercised  themselves  in  the  use  of  their  wea« 


ASTORIA.  87 

pons,  so  as  to  qualify  themselves  for  military  duty,  and  at 
night  ensconced  themselves  in  their  fortress  and  posted  senti 
nels,  to  guard  against  surprise,  In  this  way  they  hoped,  even 
in  case  of  attack,  to  be  able  to  hold  out  until  the  arrival  of  the 
party  to  be  conducted  by  Mr.  Hunt  across  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains,  or  until  the  return  of  the  Tonquin.  The  latter  depen 
dence,  however,  was  doomed  soon  to  be  destroyed.  Early  in 
August  a  wandering  band  of  savages  from  the  Strait  of  Juan 
de  Fuca  made  their  appearance  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
where  they  came  to  fish  for  sturgeon.  They  brought  c&sas- 
trous  accounts  of  the  Tonquin,  which  were  at  first  treated  as 
mere  fables,  but  which  were  too  sadly  confirmed  by  a  diiferent 
tribe  that  arrived  a  few  days  subsequently.  We  shall  relate 
the  circumstances  of  this  melancholy  aft'air  as  correctly  as  the 
casual  discrepancies  in  the  statements  that  have  reached  us 
will  permit. 

We  have  already  stated  that  the  Tonquin  set  sail  from  the 
mouth  of  the  river  on  the  fifth  of  June.  The  whole  number  of 
persons  on  board  amounted  to  twenty-three.  In  one  of  the 
outer  bays  they  picked  up,  from  a  fishing  canoe,  an  Indian 
named  Lamazee,  who  had  already  made  two  voyages  along 
the  coast,  and  knew  something  of  the  language  of  the  various 
tribes.  He  agreed  to  accompany  them  as  interpreter. 

Steering  to  the  north,  Captain  Thorn  arrived  in  a  few  days 
at  Vancouver's  Island,  and  anchored  in  the  harbor  of  Newee- 
tee,  very  much  against  the  advice  of  his  Indian  interpreter, 
who  warned  him  against  the  perfidious  character  of  the  na 
tives  of  this  part  of  the  coast.  Numbers  of  canoes  soon  came 
oif,  bringing  sea-otter  skins  to  sell.  It  was  too  late  in  the  day 
to  commence  a  traffic,  but  Mr.  M'Kay,  accompanied  by  a  few 
of  the  men,  went  on  shore  to  a  large  village  to  visit  Wicana- 
nish,  the  chief  of  the  surrounding  territory,  six  of  the  natives 
remaining  on  board  as  hostages.  He  was  received  with  great 
professions  of  friendship,  entertained  hospitably,  and  a  couch 
of  sea-otter  skins  was  prepared  for  him  in  the  dwelling  of  the 
chieftain,  where  he  was  prevailed  upon  to  pass  the  night. 

In  the  morning  before  Mr.  M'Kay  had  returned  to  the  ship, 
great  numbers  of  the  natives  came  off  in  their  canoes  to  trade, 
headed  by  two  sons  of  Wicananish.  As  they  brought  abun 
dance  of  sea-otter  skins,  and  there  was  every  appearance  of  a 
brisk  trade,  Captain  Thorn  did  not  wait  for  the  return  of  Mr, 
M'Kay,  but  spread  his  wares  upon  deck,  making  a  tempting 
display  of  blankets,  cloths,  knives,  beads,  and  fish-hooks,  ex* 


88  ASTORIA. 

pecting  a  prompt  and  profitable  sale.  The  Indians,  however, 
were  not  so  eager  and  simple  as  he  had  supposed,  having 
learned  the  art  of  bargaining  and  the  value  of  merchandise 
from  the  casual  traders  along  the  coast.  They  were  guided, 
too,  by  a  shrewd  old  chief  named  Nookamis,  who  had  grown 
gray  in  traffic  with  New  England  skippers,  and  prided  himself 
upon  his  acuteness.  His  opinion  seemed  to  regulate  the  mar 
ket.  When  Captain  Thorn  made  what  he  considered  a  liberal 
oiler  for  an  otter-skin,  the  wily  old  Indian  treated  it  with 
scorn,  and  asked  more  than  double.  His  comrades  all  took 
their  cue  from  him,  and  not  an  otter-skin  was  to  be  had  at  a 
reasonable  rate. 

The  old  fellow,  however,  overshot  his  mark,  and  mistook  the 
character  of  the  man  he  was  treating  with.  Thorn  was  a 
plain,  straightforward  sailor,  who  never  had  two  minds  nor 
two  prices  in  his  dealings,  was  deficient  in  patience  and  pli 
ancy,  and  totally  wanting  in  the  chicanery  of  traffic.  He  had 
a  vast  deal  of  stern  but  honest  pride  in  his  nature,  and,  more 
over,  held  the  whole  savage  race  in  sovereign  contempt. 
Abandoning  all  further  attempts,  therefore,  to  bargain  with  his 
shuffling  customers,  he  thrust  his  hands  into  his  pockets,  and 
paced  up  and  down  the  deck  in  sullen  silence.  The  cunning 
old  Indian  followed  him  to  and  fro,  holding  out  a  sea-otter 
skin  to  him  at  every  turn,  and  pestering  him  to  trade.  Find 
ing  other  means  unavailing,  he  suddenly  changed  his  tone, 
and  began  to  jeer  and  banter  him  upon  the  mean  prices  he 
offered.  This  was  too  much  for  the  patience  of  the  captain, 
who  was  never  remarkable  for  relishing  a  joke,  especially 
when  at  his  own  expense.  Turning  suddenly  upon  his  per 
secutor,  he  snatched  the  proffered  otter-skin  from  his  hands, 
ruobed  it  in  his  face,  and  dismissed  him  over  the  side  of  the 
ship  with  no  very  complimentary  application  to  accelerate  his 
exit.  He  then  kicked  the  peltries  to  the  right  and  left  about 
the  deck,  and  broke  up  the  market  in  the  most  ignominious 
manner.  Old  Nookamis  made  for  shore  in  a  furious  passion, 
in  which  he  was  joined  by  Shewish,  one  of  the  sons  of  Wicana- 
nish,  who  went  off  breathing  vengeance,  and  the  ship  was 
soon  abandoned  by  the  natives. 

When  Mr.  M'Kay  returned  on  board,  the  interpreter  related 
what  had  passed,  and  begged  him  to  prevail  upon  the  captain 
to  make  sail,  as,  from  his  knowledge  of  the  temper  and'  pride 
of  the  people  of  the  place,  he  was  sure  they  would  resent  the 
indignity  offered  to  one  of  their  chiefs.  Mr.  M'Kay,  who  him' 


ASTORIA.  89 

self  possessed  some  experience  of  Indian  character,  went  to 
the  captain,  who  was  still  pacing  the  deck  in  moody  humor, 
represented  the  danger  to  which  his  hasty  act  had  exposed  the 
vessel,  and  urged  him  to  weigh  anchor.  The  captain  made 
light  of  his  counsels,  and  pointed  to  his  cannon  and  firearms  as 
a  sufficient  safeguard  against  naked  savages.  Further  remon 
strances  only  provoked  taunting  replies  and  sharp  altercations. 
The  day  passed  away  without  any  signs  of  hostility,  and  at 
night  the  captain  retired  as  usual  to  his  cabin,  taking  no  more 
than  the  usual  precautions. 

On  the  following  morning,  at  daybreak,  while  the  captain 
and  Mr.  M'Kay  were  yet  asleep,  a  canoe  came  alongside,  in 
which  were  twenty  Indians,  commanded  by  young  Shewish. 
They  were  unarmed,  their  aspect  and  demeanor  friendly,  and 
they  held  up  otter-skins,  and  made  signs  indicative  of  a  wish 
to  trade.  The  caution  enjoined  by  Mr.  Astor,  in  respect  to  the 
admission  of  Indians  on  board  of  the  ship  had  been  neglected 
for  some  time  past,  and  the  officer  of  the  watch,  perceiving 
those  in  the  canoe  to  be  without  weapons,  and  having  re 
ceived  no  orders  to  the  contrary,  readily  permitted  them  to 
mount  the  deck.  Another  canoe  soon  succeeded,  the  crew  of 
which  was  likewise  admitted.  In  a  little  while  other  canoes 
came  off,  and  Indians  were  soon  clambering  into  the  vessel  on 
all  sides. 

The  officer  of  the  watch  now  felt  alarmed,  and  called  to  Cap 
tain  Thorn  and  Mr.  M'Kay.  By  the  time  they  came  on  deck, 
it  was  thronged  with  Indians.  The  interpreter  noticed  to  Mr. 
M'Kay  that  many  of  the  natives  wore  short  mantles  of  skins, 
and  intimated  a  suspicion  that  they  were  secretly  armed.  Mr. 
M'Kay  urged  the  captain  to  clear  the  ship  and  get  under  way. 
He  again  made  light  of  the  advice,  but  the  augmented  swarm 
of  canoes  about  the  ship,  and  the  numbers  still  putting  off  from 
shore,  at  length  awakened  his  distrust,  and  he  ordered  some  of 
the  crew  to  weigh  anchor,  while  some  were  sent  aloft  to  make 
sail. 

The  Indians  now  offered  to  trade  with  the  captain  on  his  own 
terms,  prompted,  apparently,  by  the  approaching  departure  of 
the  ship.  Accordingly,  a  hurried  trade  was  commenced.  The 
main  articles  sought  by  the  savages  in  barter,  were  knives ;  as 
fast  as  some  were  supplied  they  moved  off,  and  others  suc 
ceeded.  By  degrees  they  were  thus  distributed  about  the  deck, 
and  all  with  weapons. 

The  anchor  was  now  nearly  up,  the  sails  were  i'oose,  and  the 


90  ASTORIA. 

captain,  in  a  loud  and  peremptory  tone,  ordered  the  ship  to  be 
cleared.  In  an  instant  a  signal  yell  was  given :  it  was  echoed 
on  every  side,  knives  and  war-clubs  were  brandished  in  every 
direction,  and  the  savages  rushed  upon  their  marked  victims. 

The  first  that  fell  was  Mr.  Lewis,  the  ship's  clerk.  He  was 
leaning,  with  folded  arms,  over  a  bale  of  blankets,  engaged  in 
bargaining,  when  he  received  a  deadly  stab  in  the  back,  and 
fell  down  the  companion-way. 

Mr.  M'Kay,  who  was  seated  on  the  taffrail,  sprang  on  his 
feet,  but  was  instantly  knocked  down  with  a  war-club  and 
flung  backward  into  the  sea,  where  he  was  dispatched  by  the 
women  in  the  canoes 

In  the  mean  time  Captain  Thorn  made  desperate  fight 
against  fearful  odds.  He  was  a  powerful  as  well  as  a  resolute 
man,  but  he  had  come  upon  deck  without  weapons.  Shewish, 
the  young  chief,  singled  him  out  as  his  peculiar  prey,  and 
rushed  upon  him  at  the  first  outbreak.  The  captain  had  barely 
time  to  draw  a  clasp-knife,  with  one  blow  of  which  he  laid  the 
young  savage  dead  at  his  feet.  Several  of  the  stoutest  follow 
ers  of  Shewish  now  set  upon  him.  He  defended  himself  vigor 
ously,  dealing  crippling  blows  to  right  and  left,  and  strewing 
the  quarter-deck  with  the  slain  and  wounded.  His  object  was 
to  fight  his  way  to  the  cabin,  where  there  were  firearms ;  but 
he  was  hemmed  in  with  foes,  covered  with  wounds,  and  faint 
with  loss  of  blood.  For  an  instant  he  leaned  upon  the  tiller 
Avheel,  when  a  blow  from  behind,  with'  a  war-club,  felled  him 
to  the  deck,  where  he  was  dispatched  with  knives  and  thrown 
overboard. 

While  this  was  transacting  upon  the  quarter-deck,  a  chance- 
Miedley  fight  was  going  on  throughout  the  ship.  The  crew 
fought  desperately  with  knives,  handspikes,  and  whatever 
weapon  they  could  seize  upon  in  the  moment  of  surprise. 
They  were  soon,  however,  overpowered  by  numbers,  and 
mercil  assly  butchered. 

As  to  the  seven  who  had  been  sent  aloft  to  make  sail,  they 
contemplated  with  horror  the  carnage  that  was  going  on  below. 
Being  destitute  of  weapons,  they  let  themselves  down  by  the 
running  rigging,  in  hopes  of  getting  between  decks.  One  fell 
in  the  attempt,  and  was  instantly  dispatched ;  another  received 
a  death-blow  in  the  back  as  he  was  descending;  a  third, 
Stephen  Weekes,  the  armorer,  was  mortally  wounded  as  he 
was  getting  down  the  hatchway. 

The  remaining  four  made  good  their  retreat  into  the  cabin 


ASTORIA.  91 

where  they  found  Mr.  Lewis,  still  alive,  though  mortally- 
wounded.  Barricading  the  cabin  door,  they  broke  holes 
through  the  companion-way,  and,  with  the  muskets  and  am 
munition  which  were  at  hand,  opened  a  brisk  fire  that  soon 
cleared  the  deck, 

Thus  far  the  Indian  interpreter,  from  whom  these  particulars 
are  derived,  had  been  an  eye-witness  of  the  deadly  conflict. 
He  had  taken  no  part  in  it,  and  had  been  spared  by  the  natives 
as  being  of  their  race.  In  the  confusion  of  the  moment  he  took 
refuge  with  the  rest,  in  the  canoes.  The  survivors  of  the  crew 
now  sallied  forth,  and  discharged  some  of  the  deck  guns,  which 
did  great  execution  among  the  canoes,  and  drove  all  the  savages 
to  shore. 

For  the  remainder  of  the  day  no  one  ventured  to  put  off  to 
the  ship,  deterred  by  the  effects  of  the  firearms.  The  night 
passed  away  without  any  further  attempt  on  the  part  of  the 
natives.  When  the  day  dawned,  the  Tonquin  still  lay  at 
anchor  in  the  bay,  her  sails  all  loose  and  flapping  in  the  wind, 
and  no  one  apparently  on  board  of  her.  After  a  time,  some  of 
the  canoes  ventured  forth  to  reconnoitre,  taking  with  them  the 
interpreter.  They  paddled  about  her,  keeping  cautiously  at  a 
distance,  but  growing  more  and  more  emboldened  at  seeing 
her  quiet  and  lifeless.  One  man  at  length  made  his  appearance 
on  the  deck,  and  was  recognized  by  the  interpreter  as  Mr. 
Lewis.  He  made  friendly  signs,  and  invited  them  on  board. 
It  was  long  before  they  ventured  to  comply.  Those  who 
mounted  the  deck  met  with  no  opposition ;  no  one  was  to  be 
seen  on  board ;  for  Mr.  Lewis,  after  inviting  them,  had  disap 
peared.  Other  canoes  now  pressed  forward  to  board  the  prize ; 
the  decks  were  soon  crowded,  and  the  sides  covered  with  clam 
bering  savages,  all  intent  on  plunder.  In  the  midst  of  their 
eagerness  and  exultation,  the  ship  blew  up  with  a  tremendous 
explosion.  Arms,  legs,  and  mutilated  bodies  were  blown  into 
the  air,  and  dreadful  havoc  was  made  in  the  surrounding  ca 
noes.  The  interpreter  was  in  the  main-chains  at  the  time  of 
the  explosion,  and  was  thrown  unhurt  into  the  water,  where 
he  succeeded  in  getting  into  one  of  the  canoes.  According  to 
his  statement,  the  bay  presented  an  awful  spectacle  after  the 
catastrophe.  The  ship  had  disappeared,  but  the  bay  was 
covered  with  fragments  of  the  wreck,  with  shattered  canoes, 
and  Indians  swimming  for  their  lives,  or  struggling  in  the  ago 
nies"  of  death;  while  those  who  had  escaped  the  danger  re 
mained  aghast  and  stupefied,  or  made  with  frantic  panic  for 


92  ASTORIA. 

the  shore.  Upward  of  a  hundred  savages  were  destroyed  by 
the  explosion,  many  more  were  shockingly  mutilated,  and  for 
days  afterward  the  limbs  and  bodies  of  the  slain  were  thrown 
upon  the  beach. 

The  inhabitants  of  Neweetee  were  overwhelmed  with  con 
sternation  at  this  astounding  calamity,  which  had  burst  upon 
them  in  the  very  moment  of  triumph.  The  warriors  sat  mute 
and  mournful,  while  the  women  filled  the  air  with  loud 
lamentations.  Their  weeping  and  wailing,  however,  was  sud 
denly  changed  into  yells  of  fury  at  the  sight  of  four  unfortu 
nate  white  men,  brought  captive  into  the  village.  They  had 
been  driven  on  shore  in  one  of  the  ship's  boats,  and  taken  at 
some  distance  along  the  coast. 

The  interpreter  was  permitted  to  converse  with  them.  They 
proved  to  be  the  four  brave  fellows  who  had  made  such  despe 
rate  defence  from  the  cabin.  The  interpreter  gathered  from 
them  some  of  the  particulars  already  related.  They  told  him 
further,  that,  after  they  had  beaten  off  the  enemy,  and  cleared 
the  ship,  Lewis  advised  that  they  should  slip  the  cable  and  en 
deavor  to  get  to  sea.  They  declined  to  take  his  advice,  alleg 
ing  that  the  wind  set  too  strongly  into  the  bay,  and  would 
drive  them  on  shore.  They  resolved,  as  soon  as  it  was  dark, 
to  put  off  quietly  in  the  ship's  boat,  which  they  would  be  able 
to  do  unperceived,  and  to  coast  along  back  to  Astoria.  They 
put  their  resolution  into  effect ;  but  Lewis  refused  to  accompany 
them,  being  disabled  by  his  wound,  hopeless  of  escape,  and  de 
termined  on  a  terrible  revenge.  On  the  voyage  out,  he  had  re 
peatedly  expressed  a  presentiment  that  he  should  die  by  his 
own  hands ;  thinking  it  highly  probable  that  he  should  be  en 
gaged  in  some  contest  with  the  natives,  and  being  resolved,  in 
case  of  extremity,  to  commit  suicide  rather  than  be  made  a 
prisoner.  He  now  declared  his  intention  to  remain  on  board 
of  the  ship  until  daylight,  to  decoy  as  many  of  the  savages  on 
board  as  possible,  then  to  set  fire  to  the  powder  magazine,  and 
terminate  his  life  by  a  signal  act  of  vengeance.  How  well  he 
succeeded  has  been  shown.  His  companions  bade  him  a  mel 
ancholy  adieu,  and  set  off  on  their  precarious  expedition. 
They  strove  with  might  and  main  to  get  out  of  the  bay,  but 
found  it  impossible  to  weather  a  point  of  land,  and  were  at 
length  compelled  to  take  shelter  in  a  small  cove,  where  they 
hoped  to  remain  concealed  until  the  wind  should  be  more  . 
favorable.  Exhausted  by  fatigue  and  watching,  they  fell  into 
a  sound  sleep,  and  in  that  state  were  surprised  by  the  savages. 


ASTORIA.  93 

Better  had  it  been  for  those  unfortunate  men  had  they  remained 
with  Lewis,  and  shared  his  heroic  death :  as  it  was,  they  per 
ished  in  a  more  painful  and  protracted  manner,  being  sacrificed 
by  the  natives  to  the  manes  of  their  friends  with  all  the  linger 
ing  tortures  of  savage  cruelty.  Some  time  after  their  death, 
the  interpreter,  who  had  remained  a  kind  of  prisoner  at  large, 
effected  his  escape,  and  brought  the  tragical  tidings  to  Astoria. 

Such  is  the  melancholy  story  of  the  Tonquin,  and  such  was 
the  fate  of  her  brave  but  headstrong  commander,  and  her  ad 
venturous  crew.  It  is  a  catastrophe  that  shows  the  impor 
tance,  in  all  enterprises  of  moment,  to  keep  in  mind  the  general 
instructions  of  the  sagacious  heads  which  devise  them.  Mr. 
Astor  was  well  aware  of  the  perils  to  which  ships  were  exposed 
on  this  coast  from  quarrels  with  the  natives,  and  from  perfidi 
ous  attempts  of  the  latter  to  surprise  and  capture  them  in  un 
guarded  moments.  He  had  repeatedly  enjoined  it  upon  Cap 
tain  Thorn,  in  conversation,  and  at  parting,  in  his  letter  of 
instructions,  to  be  courteous  and  kind  in  his  dealings  with  the 
savages,  but  by  no  means  to  confide  in  their  apparent  friend 
ship,  nor  to  admit  more  than  a  few  on  board  of  his  ship  at  a 
time. 

Had  the  deportment  of  Captain  Thorn  been  properly  regu 
lated,  the  insult  so  wounding  to  savage  pride  would  never 
have  been  given.  Had  he  enforced  the  rule  to  admit  but  a 
few  at  a  time,  the  savages  would  not  have  been  able  to  get  the 
mastery.  He  was  too  irritable,  however,  to  practise  the  nec 
essary  self-command,  and,  having  been  nurtured  in  a  proud 
contempt  of  danger,  thought  it  beneath  him  to  manifest  any 
fear  of  a  crew  of  unarmed  savages. 

With  all  his  faults  and  foibles,  we  cannot  but  speak  of  him 
with  esteem,  and  deplore  his  untimely  fate ;  for  we  remember 
him  well  in  early  life,  as  a  companion  in  pleasant  scenes  and 
joyous  hours.  .  When  on  shore,  among  his  friends,  he  was  a 
frank,  manly,  sound-hearted  sailor.  On  board  ship  he  evi 
dently  assumed  the  hardness  of  deportment  and  sternness 
of  demeanor  which  many  deem  essential  to  naval  service. 
Throughout  the  whole  of  the  expedition,  however,  he  showed 
himself  loyal,  single-minded,  straightforward,  and  fearless; 
and  if  the  fate  of  his  vessel  may  be  charged  to  his  harshness 
and  imprudence,  we  should  recollect  that  he  paid  for  his  error 
with  his  life. 

The  loss  of  the  Tonquin  was  a  grievous  blow  to  the  infant 
establishment  of  Astoria,  and  one  that  threatened  to  bring 


94  ASTORIA. 

after  it  a  train  of  disasters.  The  intelligence  of  it  did  not  reach 
Mr.  Astor  until  many  months  afterward.  He  felt  it  in  all  its 
force,  and  was  aware  that  it  must  cripple,  if  not  entirely  de 
feat,  the  great  scheme  of  his  ambition.  In  his  letters,  written 
at  the  time,  he  speaks  of  it  as  "a  calamity,  the  length  of  which 
he  could  not  foresee. "  He  indulged,  however,  in  no  weak  and 
vain  lamentation,  but  sought  to  devise  a  prompt  and  efficient 
remedy.  The  very  same  evening  he  appeared  at  the  theatre 
with  his  usual  serenity  of  countenance.  A  friend,  who  knew 
the  disastrous  intelligence  he  had  reserved,  expressed  his  as 
tonishment  that  he  could  have  calmness  of  spirit  sufficient  for 
such  a  scene  of  light  amusement.  "What  would  you  have 
me  do?"  was  his  characteristic  reply;  "would  you  have  me 
stay  at  home  and  weep  for  what  I  cannot  help  ?" 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE  tidings  of  the  loss  of  the  Tonquin,  and  the  massacre  of 
her  crew,  struck  dismay  into  the  hearts  of  the  Astorians. 
They  found  themselves  a  mere  handful  of  men,  on  a  savage 
coast,  surrounded  by  hostile  tribes,  who  would  doubtless  be 
incited  and  encouraged  to  deeds  of  violence  by  the  late  fearful 
catastrophe.  In  this  juncture  Mr.  M'Dougal,  we  are  told,  had 
recourse  to  a  stratagem  by  which  to  avail  himself  of  the  igno 
rance  and  credulity  of  the  savages,  and  which  certainly  does 
credit  to  his  ingenuity. 

The  natives  of  the  coast,  and,  indeed,  of  all  the  regions  west 
of  the  mountains,  had  an  extreme  dread  of  the  smallpox,  that 
terrific  scourge  having,  a  few  years  previously,  appeared 
among  them  and  almost  swept  off  entire  tribes.  Its  origin 
and  nature  were  wrapped  in  mystery,  and  they  conceived  it 
?n  evil  inflicted  upon  them  by  the  Great  Spirit,  or  brought 
among  them  by  the  white  men.  The  last  idea  was  seized  upon 
by  Mr.  M'Dougal.  He  assembled  several  of  the  chieftains 
whom  he  believed  to  be  in  the  conspiracy.  When  they  were 
all  seated  around,  he  informed  them  that  he  had  heard  of  the 
treachery  of  some  of  their  northern  brethren  toward  the  Ton 
quin,  and  was  determined  on  vengeance.  "The  white  men 
among  you,"  said  he,  "  are  few  in  number,  it  is  true,  but  they 
are  mighty  in  medicine.  See  here,"  continued  he,  drawing 


ASTORIA.  95 

forth  a  small  bottle  and  holding  it  before  their  eyes,  "  in  this 
bottle  I  hold  the  smallpox,  safely  corked  up;  I  have  but  to 
draw  the  cork,  and  let  loose  the  pestilence,  to  sweep  man, 
woman,  and  child  frcm  the  face  of  the  earth." 

The  chiefs  were  struck  with  horror  and  alarm.  They  im 
plored  him  not  to  uncork  the  bottle,  since  they  and  all  their 
people  were  firm  friends  of  the  white  men,  and  would  always 
remain  so ;  but,  should  the  smallpox  be  once  let  out,  it  would 
run  like  wildfire  throughout  the  country,  sweeping  off  the 
good  as  well  as  the  bad,  and  surely  he  would  not  be  so  unjust 
as  to  punish  his  friends  for  crimes  committed  by  his  enemies. 

Mr.  M'Dougal  pretended  to  be  convinced  by  their  reasoning, 
and  assured  them  that,  so  long  as  the  white  people  should  be 
unmolested,  and  the  conduct  of  their  Indian  neighbors  friendly 
and  hospitable,  the  phial  of  wrath  should  remain  sealed  up; 
but,  on  the  least  hostility,  the  fatal  cork  should  be  drawn. 

From  this  time,  it  is  added,  he  was  much  dreaded  by  the 
natives,  as  one  who  held  their  fate  in  his  hands,,  and  was 
called,  by  way  of  pre-eminence,  "the  Great  Smallpox  Chief." 

All  this  while,  the  labors  at  the  infant  settlement  went  on 
with  unremitting  assiduity,  and,  by  the  26th  of  September  a 
commodious  mansion,  spacious  enough  to  accommodate  all 
hands,  was  completed.  It  was  built  of  stone  and  clay,  there 
being  no  calcareous  stone  in  the  neighborhood  from  which 
lime  for  mortar  could  be  procured.  The  schooner  was  also 
finished,  and  launched,  with  the  accustomed  ceremony,  on  the 
second  of  October,  and  took  her  station  below  the  fort.  She 
was  named  the  Dolly,  and  was  the  first  American  vessel 
launched  on  this  coast. 

On  the  5th  of  October,  in  the  evening,  the  little  community 
at  Astoria  was  enlivened  by  the  unexpected  arrival  of  a  de 
tachment  from  Mr.  David  Stuart's  post  on  the  Oakinagan.  It 
consisted  of  two  of  the  clerks  and  two  of  the  privates.  They 
brought  favorable  accounts  of  the  new  establishment,  but  re 
ported  that,  as  Mr.  Stuart  was  apprehensive  there  might  be  a 
difficulty  of  subsisting  his  whole  party  throughout  the  winter, 
he  had  sent  one  half  back  to  Astoria,  retaining  with  him  only 
Ross,  Montigny,  and  two  others.  Such  is  the  hardihood  of  the 
Indian  trader.  In  the  heart  of  a  savage  and  unknown  coun 
try,  seven  hundred  miles  from  the  main  body  of  his  fellow- 
adventurers,  Stuart  had  dismissed  half  of  his  little  number, 
and  was  prepared  with  the  residue  to  brave  all  the  perils  of 
the  wilderness,  and  the  rigors  of  a  long  and  dreary  winter. 


96  ASTORIA. 

With  the  return  party  came  a  Canadian  Creole  named  Re 
gis  Brugiere,  and  an  Iroquois  hunter,  with  his  wife  and  two 
children.  As  these  two  personages  belong  to  certain  classes 
which  have  derived  their  peculiar  characteristics  from  the  fur 
trade,  we  deem  some  few  particulars  concerning  them  perti 
nent  to  the  nature  of  this  work. 

Brugiere  was  of -a  class  of  beaver  trappers  and  hunters  tech 
nically  called  freemen,  in  the  language  of  the  traders.  They 
are  generally  Canadians  by  birth,  and  of  French  descent,  who 
have  been  employed  for  a  term  of  years  by  some  fur  company, 
but,  their  term  being  expired,  continue  to  hunt  and  trap  on 
their  own  account,  trading  with  the  company  like  the  Indians. 
Hence  they  derive  their  appellation  of  freemen,  to  distinguish 
them  from  the  trappers  who  are  bound  for  a  number  of  years, 
and  receive  wages,  or  hunt  on  shares. 

Having  passed  their  early  youth  in  the  wilderness,  sepa 
rated  almost-entirely  from  civilized  man,  and  in  frequent  inter 
course  with  the  Indians,  they  relapse,  with  a  facility  common 
to  human  nature,  into  the  habitudes  of  savage  life.  Though 
no  longer  bound  by  engagements  to  continue  in  the  interior, 
they  have  become  so  accustomed  to  the  freedom  of  the  forest 
and  the  prairie,  that  they  look  back  with  repugnance  upon  the 
restraints  of  civilization.  Most  of  them  intermarry  with  the 
natives,  and,  like  the  latter,  have  often  a  plurality  of  wives. 
Wanderers  of  the  wilderness,  according  to  the  vicissitudes  of 
the  seasons,  the  migrations  of  animals,  and  the  plenty  or  scar 
city  of  game,  they  lead  a  precarious  and  unsettled  existence ; 
exposed  to  sun  and  storm  and  all  kinds  of  hardships,  until 
they  resemble  Indians  in  complexion  as  well  as  in  tastes  and 
habits.  From  time  to  time  they  bring  the  peltries  they  have 
collected  to  the  trading  houses  of  the  company  in  whose  em 
ploy  they  have  been  brought  up.  Here  they  traffic  them 
away  for  such  articles  of  merchandise  or  ammunition  as  they 
may  stand  in  need  of.  At  the  time  when  Montreal  was  the 
great  emporium  of  the  fur  trader,  one  of  these  freemen  of  the 
wilderness  would  suddenly  return,  after  an  absence  of  many 
years,  among  his  old  friends  and  comrades.  He  would  be 
greeted  as  one  risen  from  the  dead ;  and  with  the  greater  wel 
come,  as  he  returned  flush  of  money.  A  short  time,  however, 
cpent  in  revelry  would  be  sufficient  to  drain  his  purse  and  sate 
him  with  civilized  life,  and  he  would  return  with  new  relish  to 
the  unshackled  freedom  of  the  forest. 

Numbers  of  men  of  this  class  were  scattered  throughout 


ASTORIA.  97 

the  northwest  territories.  Some  of  them  retained  a  little  of 
the  thrift  and  forethought  of  the  civilized  man,  and  became 
wealthy  among  their  improvident  neighbors ;  their  wealth  be 
ing  chiefly  displayed  in  large  bands  of  horses,  which  covered 
the  prairies  in  the  vicinity  of  their  abodes.  Most  of  them, 
however,  were  prone  to  assimilate  to  the  red  man  in  their 
heedlessness  of  the  future. 

Such  was  Regis  Brugiere,  a  freeman  and  rover  of  the  wilder 
ness.  Having  been  brought  up  in  the  service  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  he  had  followed  in  the  train  of  one  of  its  expeditions 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  undertaken  to  trap  for  the 
trading  post  established  on  the  Spokan  River.  In  the  course 
of  his  hunting  excursions  he  had  either  accidentally,  or  design 
edly,  found  his  way  to  the  post  of  Mr.  Stuart,  and  been  pre 
vailed  upon  to  descend  the  Columbia,  and  "try  his  luck"  at 
Astoria. 

Ignace  Shonowane,  the  Iroquois  hunter,  was  a  specimen  of 
a  different  class.  He  was  one  of  those  aboriginals  of  Canada 
who  had  partially  conformed  to  the  habits  of  civilization,  and 
the  doctrines  of  Christianity,  under  the  influence  of  the  French 
colonists  and  the  Catholic  priests ;  who  seem  generally  to  have 
been  more  successful  in  conciliating,  taming,  and  converting 
the  savages,  than  their  English  and  Protestant  rivals.  These 
half-civilized  Indians  retained  some  of  the  good  and  many  of 
the  evil  qualities  of  their  original  stock.  They  were  first-rate 
hunters,  and  dexterous  in  the  management  of  the  canoe. 
They  could  undergo  great  privations,  and  were  admirable  for 
the  service  of  the  rivers,  lakes,  and  forests,  provided  they 
could  be  kept  sober,  and  in  proper  subordination;  but,  once 
inflamed  with  liquor,  to  which  they  were  madly  addicted,  all 
the  dormant  passions  inherent  in  their  nature  were  prone  to 
break  forth,  and  to  hurry  them  into  the  most  vindictive  and 
bloody  acts  of  violence. 

Though  they  generally  professed  the  Roman  Catholic  reli 
gion,  yet  it  was  mixed,  occasionally,  with  some  of  their  ancient 
superstitions;  and  they  retained  much  of  the  Indian  belief  in 
charms  and  omens.  Numbers  of  these  men  were  employed  by 
the  Northwest  Company  as  trappers,  hunters,  and  canoe-men, 
but  on  lower  terms  than  were  allowed  to  white  men.  Ignace 
Shonowane  had,  in  this  way,  followed  the  enterprise  of  the 
company  to  the  banks  of  the  Spokan,  being,  probably,  one  of 
the  first  of  his  tribe  that  had  traversed  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Such  were  some  of  the  motley  populace  of  the  wilderness, 


98  ASTORIA. 

incident  to  the  fur  trade,  who  were  gradually  attracted  to  the 
new  settlement  of  Astoria. 

The  month  of  October  now  began  to  give  indications  of 
approaching  winter.  Hitherto  the  colonists  had  been  well 
pleased  with  the  climate.  The  summer  had  been  temperate, 
the  mercury  never  rising  above  eighty  degrees.  Westerly 
winds  had  prevailed  during  the  spring  and  the  early  part  of 
summer,  and  been  succeeded  by  fresh  breezes  from  the  north 
west.  In  the  month  of  October  the  southerly  winds  set  in, 
bringing  with  them  frequent  rain. 

The  Indians  now  began  to  quit  the  borders  of  the  ocean,  and 
to  retire  to  their  winter  quarters  in  the  sheltered  bosom  of  the 
forests,  or  along  the  small  rivers  and  brooks.  The  rainy  sea 
son,  which  commences  in  October,  continues,  with  little  inter 
mission,  until  April;  and  though  the  winters  are  generally 
mild,  the  mercury  seldom  sinking  below  the  freezing  point, 
yet  the  tempests  of  wind  and  rain  are  terrible.  The  sun  is 
sometimes  obscured  for  weeks,  the  brooks  swell  into  roaring 
torrents,  and  the  country  is  threatened  with  a  deluge. 

The  departure  of  the  Indians  to  their  winter  quarters  gradu 
ally  rendered  provisions  scanty,  and*  obliged  the  colonists  to 
send  out  foraging  expeditions  in  the  Dolly.  Still,  the  little 
handful  of  adventurers  kept  up  their  spirits  in  their  lonely  fort 
at  Astoria,  looking  forward  to  the  time  when"  they  should  be 
animated  and  reinforced  by  the  party  under  Mr.  Hunt,  that 
was  to  come  to  them  across  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  year  gradually  wore  away.  The  rain,  which  had  poured 
down  almost  incessantly  since  the  first  of  October,  cleared  up 
toward  the  evening  of  the  31st  of  December,  and  the  morning 
of  the  first  of  January  ushered  in  a  day  of  sunshine. 

The  hereditary  French  holiday  spirit  of  the  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs  is  hardly  to  be  depressed  by  any  adversities ;  and  they 
can  manage  to  get  up  a  fete  in  the  most  squalid  situations,  and 
under  the  most  untoward  circumstances.  An  extra  allowance 
of  rum,  and  a  little  flour  to  make  cakes  and  puddings,  consti 
tute  a  "  regale;"  and  they  forget  all  their  toils  and  troubles  in 
the  song  and  dance. 

On  the  present  occasion  the  partners  endeavored  to  celebrate 
the  new  year  with  some  effect.  At  sunrise  the  drums  beat  to 
arms,  the  colors  were  hoisted  with  three  rounds  of  smallarms 
and  three  discharges  of  cannon.  The  day  was  devoted  to  games 
of  agility  and  strength,  and  other  amusements ;  and  grog  was 
temperately  distributed,  together  with  bread,  butter,  arid 


ASTORIA.  99 

cheese.  The  best  dinner  their  circumstances  could  afford  was 
served  up  at  midday.  At  sunset  the  colors  were  lowered,  with 
another  discharge  of  artillery.  The  night  was  spent  in  danc 
ing  ;  and,  though  there  was  a  lack  of  female  partners  to  excite 
their  gallantry,  the  voyageurs  kept  up  the  ball,  with  true 
French  spirit,  until  three  o'clock  in  the  morning.  So  passed 
the  new  year  festival  of  1812  at  the  infant  colony  of  Astoria. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

WE  have  followed  up  the  fortunes  of  the  maritime  part  of 
this  enterprise  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  and  have  conducted 
the  affairs  of  the  embryo  establishment  to  the  opening  of  the 
new  year ;  let  us  now  turn  back  to  the  adventurous  band  to 
whom  was  intrusted  the  land  expedition,  and  who  were  to 
make  their  way  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  up  vast  rivers, 
across  trackless  <plains,  and  over  the  rugged  barriers  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains. 

The  conduct  of  this  expedition,  as  has  been  already  men 
tioned,  was  assigned  to  Mr.  Wilson  Price  Hunt,  of  Trenton, 
New  Jersey,  one  of  the  partners  of  the  company,  who  was 
ultimately  to  be  at  the  head  of  the  establishment  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia.  He  is  represented  as  a  man  scrupulously 
upright  and  faithful  in  his  dealings,  amicable  in  his  disposi 
tion,  and  of  most  accommodating  manners;  and  his  whole 
conduct  will  be  found  in  unison  with  such  a  character.  He 
was  not  practically  experienced  in  the  Indian  trade ;  that  is  to 
say,  he  had  never  made  any  expeditions  of  traffic  into  the 
heart  of  the  wilderness,  but  he  had  been  engaged  in  commerce 
at  St.  Louis,  then  a  frontier  settlement  on  the  Mississippi, 
where  the  chief  branch  of  his  business  had  consisted  in  fur 
nishing  Indian  traders  with  goods  and  equipments.  In  this 
way  he  had  acquired  much  knowledge  of  the  trade  at  second 
hand,  and  of  the  various  tribes,  and  the  interior  country  over 
which  it  extended. 

Another  of  the  partners,  Mr.  Donald  M'Kenzie,  was  asso 
ciated  with  Mr.  Hunt  in  the  expedition,  and  excelled  on  those 
points  in  which  the  other  was  deficient ;  for  he  had  been  ten 
years  in  the  interior,  in  service  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
and  valued  himself  on  his  knowledge  of  "woodcraft,"  and 
the  strategy  of  Indian  trade  and  Indian  warfare.  He  had  a 


100  ASTORIA. 

frame  seasoned  to  toils  and  hardships,  a  spirit  not  to  be  intimi 
dated,  and  was  reputed  to  be  a  "remarkable  shot;"  which  of 
itself  was  sufficient  to  give  him  renown  upon  the  frontier. 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  coadjutor  repaired,  about  the  latter  part  of 
July,  1810,  to  Montreal,  the  ancient  emporium  of  the  fur  trade, 
where  everything  requisite  for  the  expedition  could  be  pro 
cured.  One  of  the  first  objects  was  to  recruit  a  complement 
of  Canadian  voyageurs  from  the  disbanded  herd  usually  to  be 
found  loitering  about  the  place.  A  degree  of  jockeyship,  how 
ever,  is  required  for  this  service,  for  a  Canadian  voyageur  is  as 
full  of  latent  tricks  and  vice  as  a  horse ;  and  when  he  makes 
the  greatest  external  promise,  is  prone  to  prove  the  greatest 
"take  in."  Besides,  the  Northwest  Company,  who  maintained 
a  long  established  control  at  Montreal,  and  knew  the  qualities 
of  every  voyageur,  secretly  interdicted  the  prime  hands  from 
engaging  in  this  new  service ;  so  that,  although  liberal  terms 
were  offered,  few  presented  themselves  but  such  as  were  not 
worth  having. 

From  these  Mr.  Hunt  engaged  a  number  sufficient,  as  he 
supposed,  for  present  purposes;  and,  having  laid  in  a  supply 
of  ammunition,  provisions,  and  Indian  goods,  embarked  all  on 
board  one  of  those  great  canons  at  that  time  universally  used 
by  the  fur  traders  for  navigating  the  intricate  and  often-ob 
structed  rivers.  The  canoe  was  between  thirty  and  forty  feet 
long,  and  several  feet  in  width;  constructed  of  birch  bark, 
sewed  with  fibres  of  the  roots  of  the  spruce  tree,  and  daubed 
with  resin  of  the  pine,  instead  of  tar.  The  cargo  was  made  up 
in  packages,  weighing  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  pounds 
each,  for  the  facility  of  loading  and  unloading,  and  of  trans 
portation  at  portages.  The  canoe  itself,  though  capable  of  sus 
taining  a  freight  of  upward  of  four  tons,  could  readily  be 
carried  on  men's  shoulders.  Canoes  of  this  size  are  generally 
managed  by  eight  or  ten  men,  two  of  whom  are  picked  vete 
rans,  who  receive  double  wages,  and  are  stationed,  one  at  the 
bow  and  the  other  at  the  stern,  to  keep  a  lookout  and  to  steer. 
They  are  termed  the  foreman  and  the  steersman.  The  rest, 
who  ply  the  paddles,  are  called  middle-men.  When  there  is  a 
favorable  breeze,  the  canoe  is  occasionally  navigated  with  a 
sail. 

The  expedition  took  its  regular  departure,  as  usual,  from  St. 
Anne's,  near  the  extremity  of  the  island  of  Montreal,  the  great 
starting  place  of  the  traders  to  the  interior.  Here  stood  the 
ancient  chapel  of  St.  Anne,  the  patroness  of  the  Canadian  voy- 


ASTORI4. ::,:::/  101 

ageurs,  where  they  made  confession*  and  "offered c up  their 
vows,  previous  to  departing;  bn^any  li&zardous,  expedition. 
The  shrine  of  the  saint  was  decorated  with  rcltes  and  rvtrtrfye 
offerings  hung  up  by  these  superstitious  beings,  either  to  pro 
pitiate  her  favor,  or  in  gratitude  for  some  signal  deliverance 
in  the  wilderness.  It  was  the  custom,  too,  of  these  devout 
vagabonds,  after  leaving  the  chapel,  to  have  a  grand  carouse, 
in  honor  of  the  saint  and  for  the  prosperity  of  the  voyage.  In 
this  part  of  their  devotions,  the  crew  of  Mr.  Hunt  proved 
themselves  by  no  means  deficient.  Indeed,  he  soon  discovered 
that  his  recruits,  enlisted  at  Montreal,  were  fit  to  vie  with  the 
ragged  regiment  of  Falstaff.  Some  were  able-bodied,  but  in 
expert  ;  others  were  expert,  but  lazy ;  while  a  third  class  were 
expert  and  willing,  but  totally  worn  out,  being  broken  down 
veterans,  incapable  of  toil. 

With  this  inefficient  crew  he  made  his  way  up  the  Ottawa 
River,  and  by  the  ancient  route  of  the  fur  traders  along  a  suc 
cession  of  small  lakes  and  rivers  to  Michilimackinac.  Their 
progress  was  slow  and  tedious.  Mr,  Hunt  was  not  accustomed 
to  the  management  of  "voyageurs,"  and  he  had  a  crew  ad 
mirably  disposed  to  play  the  old  soldier,  and  balk  their  work, 
and  ever  ready  to  come  to  a  halt,  land,  make  a  fire,  put  on  the 
great  pot,  and  smoke,  and  gossip,  and  sing  by  the  hour. 

It  was  not  until  the  22d  of  July  that  they  arrived  at  Macki 
naw,  situated  on  the  island  of  the  same  name,  at  the  confluence 
of  lakes  Huron  and  Michigan.  This  famous  old  French  trad 
ing  post  continued  to  be  a  rallying  point  for  a  multifarious  and 
motley  population.  The  inhabitants  were  amphibious  in  their 
habits,  most  of  them  being,  or  having  been,  voyageurs  or 
canoe-men.  It  was  the  great  place  of  arrival  and  departure  of 
the  southwest  fur  trade.  Here  the  Mackinaw  Company  had 
established  its  principal  post,  from  whence  it  communicated 
with  the  interior  and  with  Montreal.  Hence  its  various 
traders  and  trappers  set  out  for  their  respective  destinations 
about  Lake  Superior  and  its  tributary  waters,  or  for  the  Mis 
sissippi,  the  Arkansas,  the  Missouri,  and  the  other  regions  of 
the  west.  Here,  after  the  absence  of  a  year  or  more:  They 
returned  with  their  peltries,  and  settled  their  accounts;  the 
furs  rendered  in  by  them  being  transmitted,  in  canoes,  from 
hence  to  Montreal.  Mackinaw  was,  therefore,  for  a  great  part 
of  the  year,  very  scantily  peopled ;  but  at  certain  seasons  the 
traders  arrived  from  all  points,  with  their  crews  of  voyageurs, 
and  the  place  swarmed  like  a  hive. 


ASTORIA. 

Mackinaw,  at  that  time,  was  a  mere  village,  stretching  along 
a  SikaU  ba^,,  Hvjtli  a^  fi>ie  ;broati  beach  in  front  of  its  principal 
ro.w  o£  houses,  arid  dotpiiiate^. -by  the  old  fort,  which  crowned 
an  impending  height.  The  beach  was  a  kind  of  public  prome 
nade,  where  were  displayed  all  the  vagaries  of  a  seaport  on 
the  arrival  of  a  fleet  from  a  long  cruise.  Here  voyagetirs 
frolicked  aw^ay  their  wages,  fiddling  and  dancing  in  the  booths 
and  cabins,  buying  all  kinds  of  knick-knacks,  dressing  them 
selves  out  finely,  and  parading  up  and  down,  like  arrent 
braggarts  and  coxcombs.  Sometimes  they  met  with  rival 
coxcombs  in  the  young  Indians  from  the  opposite  shore,  who 
would  appear  on  the  beach  painted  and  decorated  in  fantastic 
style,  and  would  saunter  up  and  down,  to  be  gazed  at  and  ad 
mired,  perfectly  satisfied  that  they  eclipsed  their  pale-faced 
competitors. 

Now  and  then  a  chance  party  of  "Northwesters"  appeared 
at  Mackinaw  from  the  rendezvous  at  Fort  William.  These 
held  themselves  up  as  the  chivalry  of  the  fur  trade.  They 
were  men  of  iron ;  proof  against  cold  weather,  hard  fare,  and 
perils  of  all  kinds.  Some  would  wear  the  northwest  button, 
and  a  formidable  dirk,  and  assume  something  of  a  military 
air.  They  generally  wore  feathers  in  their  hats,  and  affected 
the  "brave."  "Jesuisun  homme  du  nord!" — "I  am  a  man 
of  the  north,"  one  of  these  swelling  fellows  would  exclaim, 
sticking  his  arms  akimbo  and  ruffling  by  the  South  westers, 
whom  he  regarded  with  great  contempt,  as  men  softened  by 
mild  climates  and  the  luxurious  fare  of  bread  and  bacon,  and 
whom  he  stigmatized  with  the  inglorious  name  of  pork-eaters. 
The  superiority  assumed  by  these  vainglorious  swaggerers 
was,  in  general,  tacitly  admitted.  Indeed,  some  of  them  had 
acquired  great  notoriety  for  deeds  of  hardihood  and  courage ; 
for  the  fur  trade  had  its  heroes,  whose  names  resounded 
throughout  the  wilderness. 

Such  was  Mackinaw  at  the  time  of  which  we  are  treating. 
It  now,  doubtless,  presents  a  totally  different  aspect.  The  fur 
companies  no  longer  assemble  there;  the  navigation  of  the 
lakes  is  carried  on  by  steamboats  and  various  shipping,  and 
the  race  of  traders,  and  trappers,  and  voyageurs,  and  Indian 
dandies,  have  vapored  out  their  brief  hour  and  disappeared. 
Such  changes  does  the  lapse  of  a  handful  of  years  make  in  this 
ever-changing  country. 

At  this  place  Mr.  Hunt  remained  for  some  time,  to  complete 
his  assortment  of  Indian  goods,  and  to  increase  his  number  of 


ASTORIA.  103 

voyageurs,  as  well  as  to  engage  some  of  a  more  efficient  char 
acter  than  those  enlisted  at  Montreal. 

And  now  commenced  another  same  of  jockeyship.  Thero 
were  able  and  efficient  men  in  abundance  at  Mackinaw,  but  for 
several  days  not  one  presented  himself.  If  offers  were  made 
to  any,  they  were  listened  to  with  a  shake  of  the  head.  Should 
any  one  seem  inclined  to  enlist,  there  were  officious  idlers  and 
busybodies,  of  that  class  who  are  ever  ready  to  dissuade  others 
from  any  enterprise  in  which  they  themselves  have  no  concern. 
These  would  pull  him  by  the  sleeve,  take  him  on  one  side,  and 
murmur  in  his  ear,  or  would  suggest  difficulties  outright. 

It  was  objected  that  the  expedition  would  have  to  navigate 
unknown  rivers,  and  pass  through  howling  wildernesses  in 
fested  by  savage  tribes,  who  had  already  cut  off  the  unfortu 
nate  voyageurs  that  had  ventured  among  them ;  that  it  was  to 
climb  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  descend  into  desolate  and 
famished  regions,  where  the  traveller  was  often  obliged  to 
subsist  on  grasshoppers  and  crickets,  or  to  kill  his  own  horse 
for  food. 

At  length  one  man  was  hardy  enough  to  engage,  and  he  was 
used  like  a  " stool-pigeon,"  to  decoy  others;  but  several  days 
elapsed  before  any  more  could  be  prevailed  upon  to  join  him. 
A  tew  then  came  to  terms.  It  was  desirable  to  engage  them 
for  five  years,  but  some  refused  to  engage  for  more  than  three. 
Then  they  must  have  part  of  their  pay  in  advance,  which  was 
readily  granted.  When  they  had  pocketed  the  amount,  and 
squandered  it  in  regales  or  in  outfits,  they  began  to  talk  of 
pecuniary  obligations  at  Mackinaw,  which  must  be  discharged 
before  they  would  be  free  to  depart;  or  engagements  with 
other  persons,  which  were  only  to  be  cancelled  by  a  "  reasona 
ble  consideration." 

It  was  in  vain  to  argue  or  remonstrate.  The  money  ad 
vanced  had  already  been  sacked  and  spent,  and  must  be  lost 
and  the  recruits  left  behind,  unless  they  could  be  freed  from 
their  debts  and  engagements.  Accordingly,  a  fine  was  paid 
for  one ;  a  judgment  for  another ;  a  tavern  bill  for  the  third ; 
and  almost  all  had  to  be  bought  off  from  some  prior  engage- 
.ment,  either  real  or  pretended. 

Mr.  Hunt  groaned  in  spirit  at  the  incessant  and  unreason 
able  demands  of  these  worthies  upon  his  purse ;  yet  with  all 
this  outlay  of  funds,  the  number  recruited  was  but  scanty, 
and  many  of  the  most  desirable  still  held  themselves  aloof, 
and  were  not  to  be  caught  by  a  golden  bait.     With  these  he 


104  ASTORIA. 

tried  another  temptation.  Among  the  recruits  who  had  en 
listed  he  distributed  feathers  and  ostrich  plumes.  These  they 
put  in  their  hats,  and  thus  figured  about  Mackinaw,  assuming 
airs  of  vast  importance,  as  "voyageurs  in  a  new  company, 
that  was  to  eclipse  the  Northwest."  The  effect  was  complete. 
A  French  Canadian  is  too  vain  and  mercurial  a  being  to  with 
stand  the  finery  and  ostentation  of  the  feather.  Numbers  im 
mediately  pressed  into  the  service.  One  must  have  an  ostrich 
plume;  another,  a  white  feather  with  a  red  end;  a  third,  a 
bunch  of  cocks'  tails.  Thus  all  paraded  about  in  vainglori  )us 
style,  more  delighted  with  the  feathers  in  their  hats  than  with 
the  money  in  their  pockets ;  and  considering  themselves  fully 
equal  to  the  boastful  "men  of  the  north." 

While  thus  recruiting  the  number  of  rank  and  file,  Mr. 
Hunt  was  joined  by  a  person  whom  he  had  invited,  by  letter, 
to  engage  as  a  partner  in  the  expedition.  This  was  Mr.  Ram 
say  Crooks,  a  young  man,  a  native  of  Scotland,  who  had 
served  under  the  Northwest  Company,  and  been  engaged  in 
trading  expeditions  upon  his  individual  account,  among  the 
tribes  of  the  Missouri.  Mr.  Hunt  knew  him  personally,  and 
had  conceived  a  high  and  merited  opinion  of  his  judgment, 
enterprise,  and  integrity;  he  was  rejoiced,  therefore,  when  tlio 
latter  consented  to  accompany  him.  Mr.  Crooks,  however, 
drew  from  experience  a  picture  of  the  dangers  to  which  they 
would  be  subjected,  and  urged  the  importance  of  going  with  a 
considerable  force.  In  ascending  the  upper  Missouri  they 
would  have  to  pass  through  the  country  of  the  Sioux  Indians, 
who  had  manifested  repeated  hostility  to  the  white  traders, 
and  rendered  their  expeditions  extremely  perilous ;  firing  upon 
them  from  the  river  banks  as  they  passed  beneath  in  their 
boats,  and  attacking  them  in  their  encampments.  Mr.  Crooks 
himself,  when  voyaging  in  company  with  another  trader  of  the 
name  of  M'Lellan,  had  been  interrupted  by  these  marauders, 
and  had  considered  himself  fortunate  in  escaping  down  the 
river  without  loss  of  life  or  property,  but  with  a  total  abandon 
ment  of  his  trading  voyage. 

Should  they  be  fortunate  enough  to  pass  through  the  coun 
try  of  the  Sioux  without  molestation,  they  would  have  another 
tribe  still  more  savage  and  warlike  beyond,  and  deadly  foes  of 
the  white  men.  These  were  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  who  ranged 
over  a  wide  extent  of  country  which  they  would  have  to 
traverse. 

Under  all  these  circumstances  it  was  thought  advisable  to 


ASTORIA.  105 

augment  the  party  considerably.  It  already  exceeded  the 
number  of  thirty,  to  which  it  had  originally  been  limited ;  but 
it  was  determined,  on  arriving  at  St.  Louis,  to  increase  it  to 
the  number  of  sixty. 

These  matters  being  arranged,  they  prepared  to  embark; 
but  the  embarkation  of  a  crew  of  Canadian  voyageurs,  011  a 
distant  expedition,  is  not  so  easy  a  matter  as  might  be  im 
agined;  especially  of  such  a  set  of  vainglorious  fellows  with 
money  in  both  pockets,  and  cocks'  tails  in  their  hats.  Like 
sailors,  the  Canadian  voyageurs  generally  preface  a  long  cruise 
with  a  carouse.  They  have  their  cronies,  their  brothers,  their 
cousins,  their  wives,  their  sweethearts ;  all  to  be  entertained  at 
their  expense.  They  feast,  they  fiddle,  they  drink,  they  sing, 
they  dance,  they  frolic  and  fight,  until  they  are  all  as  mad  as 
so  many  drunken  Indians.  The  publicans  are  all  obedience  to 
their  commands,  never  hesitating  to  let  them  run  up  scores 
without  limit,  knowing  that,  when  their  own  money  is  ex 
pended,  the  purses  of  their  employers  must  answer  for  the  bill, 
or  the  voyage  must  be  delayed.  Neither  was  it  possible,  at 
that  time,  to  remedy  the  matter  at  Mackinaw.  In  that  am 
phibious  community  there  was  always  a  propensity  to  wrest 
the  laws  in  favor  of  riotous  or  mutinous  boatmen.  It  was 
necessary,  also,  to  keep  the  recruits  in  good  humor,  seeing  the 
novelty  and  danger  of  the  service  into  which  they  were  enter 
ing,  and  the  ease  with  which  they  might  at  any  time  escape  it, 
by  jumping  into  a  canoe  and  going  down  the  stream. 

Such  were  the  scenes  that  beset  Mr.  Hunt,  and  gave  him  a 
foretaste  of  the  difficulties  of  his  command.  The  little  cabarets 
and  sutlers'  shops  along  the  bay  resounded  with  the  scraping 
of  fiddles,  with  snatches  of  old  French  songs,  with  Indian 
whoops  and  yells :  while  every  plumed  and  feathered  vagabond 
had  his  troop  of  loving  cousins  and  comrades  at  his  heels.  It 
was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  they  could  be  extricated  from 
the  clutches  of  the  publicans  and  the  embraces  of  their  pot 
companions,  who  followed  them  to  the  water's  edge  with  many 
a  hug,  a  kiss  on  each  cheek,  and  a  maudlin  benediction  in 
Canadian  French. 

It  was  about  the  12th  of  August  that  they  left  Mackinaw, 
and  pursued  the  usual  route  by  Green  Bay,  Fox  and  Wiscon 
sin  Elvers,  to  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  thence  down  the  Missis 
sippi  to  St.  Louis,  where  they  landed  on  the  third  of  Sep 
tember. 


1()6  ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

ST.  Louis,  which  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Missis 
sippi  River,  a  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  was, 
at  that  time,  a  frontier  settlement,  and  the  last  fitting-out 
place  for  the  Indian  trade  of  the  southwest.  It  possessed  a 
motley  population  composed  of  the  Creole  descendants  of  the 
original  French  colonists ;  the  keen  traders  from  the  Atlantic 
States;  the  backwood-men  of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee;  the 
Indians  and  half-breeds  of  the  prairies;  together  with  a  singu 
lar  aquatic  race  that  had  grown  up  from  the  navigation  of  the 
rivers — the  "boatmen  of  the  Mississippi,"  who  possessed  hab 
its,  manners,  and  almost  a  language,  peculiarly  their  own,  and 
strongly  technical.  They,  at  that  time,  were  extremely  numer 
ous,  and  conducted  the  chief  navigation  and  commerce  of  the 
Ohio  and  the  Mississippi,  as  the  voyageurs  did  of  the  Canadian 
waters;  but,  like  them,  their  consequence  and  characteristics 
are  rapidly  vanishing  before  the  all-pervading  intrusion  of 
steamboats. 

The  old  French  houses  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade  had 
gathered  round  them  a  train  of  dependents,  mongrel  Indians, 
and  mongrel  Frenchmen,  who  had  intermarried  with  Indians. 
These  they  employed  in  their  various  expeditions  by  land  and 
water.  Various  individuals  of  other  countries  had  of  late 
years,  pushed  the  trade  farther  into  the  interior,  to  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Missouri,  and  had  swelled  the  number  of  these 
hangers-on.  •  Several  of  these  traders  had,  two  or  three  years 
previously,  formed  themselves  into  a  company,  composed  of 
twelve  partners,  with  a  capital  of  about  forty  thousand  dollars, 
called  the  Missouri  Fur  Company,  the  object  of  which  was  to 
establish  posts  along  the  upper  part  of  that  river,  and  mono 
polize  the  trade.  The  leading  partner  of  this  company  was 
Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  a  Spaniard  by  birth,  and  a  man  of  bold  and 
enterprising  character,  who  had  ascended  the  Missouri  almost 
to  its  source,  and  made  himself  well  acquainted  and  popular 
with  several  of  its  tribes.  By  his  exertions,  trading  posts  had 
been  established,  in  1808,  in  the  Sioux  country,  and  among  the 
Aricara  and  Mandan  tribes;  and  a  principal  one,  under  Mr. 
Henry,  one  of  the  partners,  at  the  forks  of  the  Missouri.  This 


ASTORIA.  107 

company  had  in  its  employ  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  men, 
partly  American  hunters,  and  partly  Creoles  and  Canadian 
voyageurs. 

All  these  circumstanc.es  combined  to  produce  a  population  at 
St.  Louis  even  still  more  motley  than  that  at  Mackinaw.  Here 
were  to  be  seen  about  the  river  banks,  the  hectoring,  extra 
vagant,  bragging  boatmen  of  the  Mississippi,  with  the  gay, 
grimacing,  singing,  good-humored  Canadian  voyageurs.  Va 
grant  Indians,  of  various  tribes,  loitered  about  the  streets. 
Now  and  then,  a  stark  Kentucky  hunter,  in  leathern  hunting- 
dress,  with  rifle  on  shoulder  and  knife  in  belt,  strode  along. 
Here  and  there  were  new  brick  houses  and  shops,  just  set  up 
by  bustling,  driving,  and  eager  men  of  traffic  from  the  Atlantic 
States;  while,  on  the  other  hand,  the  old  French  mansions, 
with  open  casements,  still  retained  the  easy,  indolent  air  of  the 
original  colonists ;  and  now  and  then  the  scraping  of  a  fiddle,  a 
strain  of  an  ancient  French  song,  or  the  sound  of  billiard  balls, 
showed  that  the  happy  Gallic  turn  for  gayety  and  amusement 
still  lingered  about  the  place. 

Such  was  St.  Louis  at  the  time  of  Mr.  Hunt's  arrival  there, 
and  the  appearance  of  a  new  fur  company,  with  ample  funds 
at  its  command,  produced  a  strong  sensation  among  the  Indian 
traders  of  the  place,  and  awakened  keen  jealousy  and  opposi 
tion  on  the  part  of  the  Missouri  Company.  Mr.  Hunt  pro 
ceeded  to  strengthen  himself  against  all  competition.  For  this 
purpose,  he  secured  to  the  interests  of  the  association  another 
of  those  enterprising  men,  who  had  been  engaged  in  indi 
vidual  traffic  with  the  tribes  of  the  Missouri.  This  was  a 
Mr.  Joseph  Miller,  a  gentleman  well  educated  and  well  in 
formed,  and  of  a  respectable  family  of  Baltimore.  He  had 
been  an  officer  in  the  army  of  the  United  States,  but  had 
resigned  in  disgust,  on  being  refused  a  furlough,  and  'had 
taken  to  trapping  beaver  and  trading  among  the  Indians.  He 
was  easily  induced  by  Mr.  Hunt  to  join  as  a  partner,  and  was 
considered  by  him,  on  account  of  his  education  and  acquire 
ments,  and  his  experience  in  Indian  trade,  a  valuable  addition 
to  the  company. 

Several  additional  men  were  likewise  enlisted  in  St.  Louis, 
some  as  boatmen,  and  others  as  hunters.  These  last  were  en 
gaged,  not  merely  to  kill  game  for  provisions,  but  also,  and 
indeed  chiefly,  to  trap  beaver  and  other  animals  of  rich  furs, 
valuable  in  the  trade.  They  enlisted  on  different  terms.  Some 
were  to  have  a  fixed  salary  of  three  hundred  dollars ;  others 


108  ASTORIA. 

weie  to  be  fitted  out  and  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the 
company,  and  were  to  hunt  and  trap  on  shares. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  met  with  much  opposition  on  the  part  of  rival 
traders,  especially  the  Missouri  Fur  Company,  it  took  him 
some  weeks  to  complete  his  preparations.  The  delays  which 
he  had  previously  experienced  at  Montreal,  Mackinaw,  and  on 
the  way,  added  to  those  at  St.  Louis,  had  thrown  him  much 
behind  his  original  calculations,  so  that  it  would  be  impossible 
to  effect  his  voyage  up  the  Missouri  in  the  present  year.  This 
river,  flowing  from  high  and  cold  latitudes,  and  through  wide 
and  open  plains,  exposed  to  chilling  blasts,  freezes  early.  The 
winter  may  be  dated  from  the  first  of  November ;  there  was 
every  prospect,  therefore,  that  it  would  be  closed  with  ice  long 
before  Mr.  Hunt  could  reach  its  upper  waters.  To  avoid,  how 
ever,  the  expense  of  wintering  at  St.  Louis,  he  determined  to 
push  up  the  river  as  far  as  possible,  to  some  point  above  the 
settlements,  where  game  was  plenty,  and  where  his  whole 
party  could  be  subsisted  by  hunting,  until  the  breaking  up 
of  the  ice  in  the  spring  should  permit  them  to  resume  'their 
voyage. 

Accordingly,  on  the  twenty- first  of  October  he  took  his  de 
parture  from  St.  Louis.  His  party  was  distributed  in  three 
boats.  One  was  the  barge  which  he  had  brought  from  Mack 
inaw  ;  another  was  of  a  larger  size,  such  as  was  formerly  used 
in  navigating  the  Mohawk  River,  and  known  by  the  generic 
name  of  the  Schenectady  barge ;  the  other  was  a  large  keel 
boat,  at  that  time  the  grand  conveyance  on  the  Mississippi. 

In  this  way  they  set  out  from  St.  Louis,  in  buoyant  spirits, 
and  soon  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  This  vast  river, 
three  thousand  miles  in  length,  and  which,  with  its  tributary 
streams,  drains  such  an  immense  extent  of  country,  was  as  yet 
but  casually  and  imperfectly  navigated  by  the  adventurous 
bark  of  the  fur  trader.  A  steamboat  had  never  yet  stemmed 
its  turbulent  current.  Sails  were  but  of  casual  assistance,  for 
it  required  a  strong  wind  to  conquer  the  force  of  the  stream. 
The  main  dependence  was  on  bodily  strength  and  manual 
dexterity.  The  boats,  in  general,  had  to  be  propelled  by  oars 
and  setting  poles,  or  drawn  by  the  hand  and  by  grappling  hooks 
from  one  root  or  overhanging  tree  to  another ;  or  towed  by  the 
long  cordelle,  or  towing  line,  where  the  shores  were  sufficiently 
clear  of  woods  and  thickets  to  permit  the  men  to  pass  along 
the  banks. 

During  this  slow  and  tedious  progress  the  boat  would  be  ex- 


ASTORIA.  109 

posed  to  frequent  danger  from  floating  trees  and  great  masses 
of  drift-wood,  or  to  be  impaled  upon  snags  and  sawyers ;  that 
is  to  say,  sunken  trees,  presenting  a  jagged  or  pointed  end 
above  the  surface  of  the  water.  As  the  channel  of  the  river 
frequently  shifted  from  side  to  side,  according  to  the  bends 
and  sand-banks,  the  boat  had,  in  the  same  way,  to  advance  in 
a  zigzag  course.  Often  a  part  of  the  crew  would  have  to  leap 
into  tne  water  at  the  shallows,  and  wade  along  with  the  tow 
ing  line,  while  their  comrades  on  board  toilfully  assisted  with 
oar  and  setting  pole.  Sometimes  the  boat  would  seem  to  be 
retained  motionless,  as  if  spellbound,  opposite  some  point 
round  which  the  current  set  with  violence,  and  where  the 
utmost  labor  scarce  effected  any  visible  progress. 

On  these  occasions  it  was  that  the  merits  of  the  Canadian 
voyageurs  came  into  full  action.  Patient  of  toil,  not  to  be  dis 
heartened  by  impediments  and  disappointments,  fertile  in  ex 
pedients,  and  versed  in  every  mode  of  humoring  and  conquer 
ing  the  wayward  current,  they  would  ply  every  exertion, 
sometimes  in  the  boat,  sometimes  on  shore,  sometimes  in  the 
water,  however  cold;  always  alert,  always  in  good  humor;  and, 
should  they  at  any  time  flag  or  grow  weary,  one  of  their  popu 
lar  boat  songs,  chanted  by  a  veteran  oarsman,  and  responded 
to  in  chorus,  acted  as  a  never-failing  restorative. 

By  such  assiduous  and  persevering  labor  they  made  their 
way  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles  up  the  Missouri,  by 
the  IGth  of  November,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Nodowa.  As  this 
was  a  good  hunting  country,  and  as  the  season  was  rapidly  ad 
vancing,  they  determined  to  establish  their  winter  quarters  at 
this  place ;  and,  in  fact,  two  days  after  they  had  come  to  a 
halt,  the  river  closed  just  above  their  encampment. 

The  party  had  not  been  long  at  this  place  when  they  were 
joined  by  Mr.  Robert  M'Lellan,  another  trader  of  the  Missouri ; 
the  same  who  had  been  associated  with  Mr.  Crooks  in  the  un 
fortunate  expedition  in  which  they  had  been  intercepted  by 
the  Sioux  Indians,  and  obliged  to  make  a  rapid  retreat  down 
the  river. 

M'Lellan  was  a  remarkable  man.  He  had  been  a  partisan 
under  General  Wayne,  in  his  Indian  wars,  where  he  had  dis 
tinguished  himself  by  his  fiery  spirit  and  reckless  daring,  and 
marvellous  stories  were  told  of  his  exploits.  His  appearance 
answered  to  his  character.  His  frame  was  meagre,  but  mus 
cular  ;  showing  strength,  activity,  and  iron  firmness.  His  eyes 
were  dark,  deep  set,  and  piercing.  He  was  restless,  fearless, 


HO  ASTORIA. 

but  of  impetuous  and  sometimes  ungovernable  temper.  He 
had  been  invited  by  Mr.  Hunt  to  enroll  himself  as  a  partner, 
and  gladly  consented ;  being  pleased  with  the  thoughts  of  pass 
ing,  with  a  powerful  force,  through  the  country  of  the  Sioux, 
and  perhaps  having  an  opportunity  of  revenging  himself  upon 
that  lawless  tribe  for  their  past  offences. 

Another  recruit  that  joined  the  camp  at  Nodowa  deserves 
equal  mention.  This  was  John  Day,  a  hunter  i'rom  the  back 
woods  of  Virginia,  who  had  been  several  years  on  the  Missouri 
in  the  service  of  Mr.  Crooks,  and  of  other  traders.  He  was 
about  forty  years  of  age,  six  feet  two  inches  high,  straight  as 
an  Indian ;  with  an  elastic  step  as  if  he  trod  on  springs,  and  a 
handsome,  open,  manly  countenance.  It  was  his  boast  that  in 
his  younger  days  nothing  could  hurt  or  daunt  him ;  but  he  had 
"  lived  too  fast"  and  injured  his  constitution  by  his  excesses. 
Still  he  was  strong  of  hand,  bold  of  heart,  a  prime  woodman, 
and  an  almost  unerring  shot.  He  had  the  frank  spirit  of  a 
Virginian,  and  the  rough  heroism  of  a  pioneer  of  the  west. 

The  party  were  now  brought  to  a  halt  for  several  months. 
They  were  in  a  country  abounding  with  deer  and  wild  turkeys, 
so  that  there  was  no  stint  of  provisions,  and  every  one  ap 
peared  cheerful  and  contented.  Mr.  Hunt  determined  to  avail 
himself  of  this  interval  to  return  to  St.  Louis  and  obtain  a  rein 
forcement.  He  wished  to  procure  an  interpreter,  acquainted 
with  the  language  of  the  Sioux,  as,  from  all  accounts,  he  ap 
prehended  difficulties  in  passing  through  the  country  of  that 
nation.  He  felt  the  necessity,  also,  of  having  a  greater  num 
ber  of  hunters,  not  merely  to  keep  up  a  supply  of  provisions 
throughout  their  long  and  arduous  expedition,  but  also  as  a 
protection  and  defence,  in  case  of  Indian  hostilities.  For  such 
service  the  Canadian  voyageurs  were  little  to  be  depended 
upon,  fighting  not  being  a  part  of  their  profession.  The  proper 
kind  of  men  were  American  hunters  experienced  in  savage 
life  and  savage  warfare,  anji  possessed  of  the  true  game  spirit 
of  the  west. 

Leaving,  therefore,  the  encampment  in  charge  of  the  other 
partners,  Mr.  Hunt  set  off  on  foot  on  the  first  of  January 
(1810),  for  St.  Louis.  He  was  accompanied  by  eight  men  as 
far  as  Fort  Osage,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  below 
Nodowa.  Here  he  procured  a  couple  of  horses,  and  proceeded 
on  the  remainder  of  his  journey  with  two  men,  sending  the 
other  six  back  to  the  encampment.  He  arrived  at  St.  Louis  on 
the  20th  of  January. 


ASTORIA.  HI 


CHAPTER  XV. 

ON  this  his  second  visit  to  St.  Louis,  Mr.  Hunt  was  again 
impeded  in  his  plans  by  the  opposition  of  the  Missouri  Fur 
Company.  The  aft'airs  of  that  company  were,  at  this  time,  in 
a  very  dubious  state.  During  the  preceding  year,  their  prin 
cipal  establishment  at  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  had  been  so 
much  harassed  by  the  Blackfeet  Indians  that  its  commander, 
Mr.  Henry,  one  of  the  partners,  had  been  compelled  to  aban 
don  the  post  and  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  the  in 
tention  of  fixing  himself  upon  one  of  the  upper  branches  of 
the  Columbia.  What  had  become  of  him  and  his  party  was 
unknown.  The  most  intense  anxiety  was  felt  concerning 
them,  and  apprehensions  that  they  might  have  been  cut  off 
by  the  savages.  At  the  time  of  Mr.  Hunt's  arrival  at  St. 
Louis,  the  Missouri  Company  were  fitting  out  an  expedition 
to  go  in  quest  of  Mr.  Henry.  It  was  to  be  conducted  by 
Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  the  enterprising  partner  already  mentioned. 

There  being  thus  two  expeditions  on  foot  at  the  same  mo 
ment,  an  unusual  demand  was  occasioned  for  hunters  and 
voyageurs,  who  accordingly  profited  by  the  circumstance, 
and  stipulated  for  high  terms.  Mr.  Hunt  found  a  keen  and 
subtle  competitor  in  Lisa,  and  was  obliged  to  secure  his  re 
cruits  by  liberal  advances  of  pay,  and  by  other  pecuniary 
indulgences. 

The  greatest  difficulty  was  to  procure  the  Sioux  interpreter. 
There  was  but  one  man  to  be  met  with  at  St.  Louis  who 
was  fitted  for  the  purpose,  but  to  secure  him  would  require 
much  management.  The  individual  in  question  was  a  half- 
breed,  named  Pierre  Dorion;  and  as  he  figures  hereafter  in 
this  narrative,  and  is.  withal,  a  striking  specimen  of  the  hy 
brid  race  on  the  frontier,  we  shall  give  a  few  particulars  con 
cerning  him.  Pierre  was  the  son  of  Dorion,  the  French  in 
terpreter,  who  accompanied  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke  in 
their  famous  exploring  expedition  across  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains.  Old  Dorion  was  one  of  those  French  Creoles,  descend 
ants  of  the  ancient  Canadian  stock,  who  abound  on  the 
western  frontier,  and  amalgamate  or  cohabit  with  the  savages. 
He  had  sojourned  among  various  tribes,  and  perhaps  left 


112  ASTORIA. 

progeny  among  them  all;  but  his  regular  or  habitual  life 
was  a  Sioux  squaw.  By  her  he  had  a  hopeful  brood  of  half- 
breed  sons,  of  whom  Pierre  was  one.  The  domestic  affairs 
of  old  Dor  ion  were  conducted  on  the  true  Indian  plan.  Father 
and  sons  would  occasionally  get  drunk  together,  and  then 
the  cabin  was  a  scene  of  ruffian  brawl  and  fighting,  in  the 
course  of  which  the  old  Frenchman  was  apt  to  get  soundly 
belabored  by  his  mongrel  offspring.  In  a  furious  scuffle  of 
the  kind,  one  of  the  sons  got  the  old  man  upon  the  ground, 
and  was  upon  the  point  of  scalping  him.  "Hold!  my  son," 
cried  the  old  fellow,  in  imploring  accents,  ' '  you  are  too  brave, 
too  honorable  to  scalp  your  father !"  This  last  appeal  touched 
the  French  side  of  the  half-breed's  heart,  so  he  suffered  the 
old  man  to  wear  his  scalp  unharmed 

Of  this  hopeful  stock  was  Pierre  Dorion,  the  man  whom  it 
was  now  the  desire  of  Mr.  Hunt  to  engage  as  an  interpreter. 
He  had  been  employed  in  that  capacity  by  the  Missouri  Fur 
Company  during  the  preceding  year,  and  had  conducted  their 
traders  in  safety  through  the  different  tribes  of  the  Sioux.  He 
had  proved  himself  faithful  and  serviceable  while  sober ;  but 
the  love  of  liquor,  in  which  he  had  been  nurtured  and  brought 
up,  would  occasionally  break  out,  and  with  it  the  savage  side 
of  his  character. 

It  was  his  love  of  liquor  which  had  embroiled  him  with  the 
Missouri  Company.  While  in  their  service  at  Fort  Mandan  on 
the  frontier,  he  had  been  seized  with  a  whiskey  mania;  and  as 
the  beverage  was  only  to  be  procured  at  the  company's  store, 
it  had  been  charged  in  his  account  at  the  rate  of  ten  dollars  a 
quart.  This  item  had  ever  remained  unsettled,  and  a  matter  of 
furious  dispute,  the  mere  mention  of  which  was  sufficient  to 
put  him  in  a  passion. 

The  moment  it  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Lisa  that  Pierre 
Dorion  was  in  treaty  with  the  new  and  rival  association,  he 
endeavored  by  threats  as  well  as  promises,  to  prevent  his  en 
gaging  in  their  service.  His  promises  might,  perhaps,  have 
prevailed;  but  his  threats,  which  related  to  the  whiskey  debt, 
only  served  to  drive  Pierre  into  the  opposite  ranks.  Still,  he 
took  advantage  of  this  competition  for  his  services  to  stand 
out  with  Mr.  Hunt  on  the  most  advantageous  terms,  and,  after 
a  negotiation  of  nearly  two  weeks,  capitulated  to  serve  in  the 
expedition,  as  hunter  and  interpreter,  at  the  rate  of  three  hun 
dred  dollars  a  year,  two  hundred  of  which  were  to  be  paid  in 
advance. 


ASTORIA.  H3 

When  Mr.  Hunt  had  got  everything  ready  for  leaving  St. 
Louis  new  difficulties  rose.  Five  of  the  American  hunters  from 
the  encampment  at  Nodowa,  suddenly  made  their  appearance. 
They  alleged  that  they  had  been  ill-treated  by  the  partners 
at  the  encampment,  and  had  come  off  clandestinely,  in  conse 
quence  of  a  dispute.  It  was  useless  at  the  present  moment, 
and  under  present  circumstances,  to  attempt  any  compulsory 
measures  with  these  deserters.  Two  of  them  Mr.  Hunt  pre 
vailed  upon,  by  mild  means,  to  return  with  him.  The  rest  re 
fused  ;  nay,  what  was  worse,  they  spread  such  reports  of  the 
hardships  and  dangers  to  be  apprehended  in  the  course  of  the 
expedition,  that  they  struck  a  panic  into  those  hunters  who 
had  recently  engaged  at  St.  Louis,  and,  when  the  hour  of  de 
parture  arrived,  all  but  one  refused  to  embark.  It  was  in  vain 
to  plead  or  remonstrate;  they  shouldered  their  rifles,  and 
turned  their  back  upon  the  expedition,  and  Mr.  Hunt  was  fain 
to  put  off  from  shore  with  the  single  hunter  and  a  number  of 
voyageurs  whom  he  had  engaged.  Even  Pierre  Dorion,  at  the 
last  moment,  refused  to  enter  the  boat  until  Mr.  Hunt  con 
sented  to  take  his  squaw  and  two  children  onboard  also.  But 
the  tissue  of  perplexities,  on  account  of  this  worthy  individual, 
did  not  end  here. 

Among  the  various  persons  who,  were  about  to  proceed  up 
the  Missouri  with  Mr.  Hunt,  were  two  scientific  gentlemen: 
one  Mr.  John  Bradbury,  a  man  of  mature  age,  but  great  enter 
prise  and  personal  activity,  who  had  been  sent  out  by  the  Lin- 
nsean  Society  of  Liverpool,  to  make  a  collection  of  American 
plants;  the  other,  a  Mr.  Nuttall,  likewise  an  Englishman, 
younger  in  years,  who  has  since  made  himself  known  as  the 
author  of  " Travels  in  Arkansas,"  and  a  work  on  the  "Genera 
of  American  Plants."  m  Mr.  Hunt  had  offered  them  the  protec 
tion  and  facilities  of  his  party,  in  their  scientific  researches  up 
the  Missouri.  As  they  were  not  ready  to  depart  at  the  moment 
of  embarkation,  they  put  their  trunks  on  board  of  the  boat,  but 
remained  at  St.  Louis  until  the  next  day,  for  the  arrival  of  the 
post,  intending  to  join  the  expedition  at  St.  Charles,  a  short 
distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. 

The  same  evening,  however,  they  learned  that  a  writ  had 
been  issued  against  Pierre  Dorion  for  his  whiskey  debt,  by  Mr. 
Lisa,  as  agent  of  the  Missouri  Company,  and  that  it  was  the  in 
tention  to  entrap  the  mongrel  linguist  on  his  arrival  at  St. 
Charles.  Upon  hearing  this,  Mr.  Bradbury  a-nd  Mr.  Nuttall  set 
off  a  little  after  midnight,  by  land,  got  ahead  of  the  boat  as  it 


114  ASTORIA. 

was  ascending  the  Missouri,  before  its  arrival  at  St.  Charles, 
and  gave  Pierre  Dorion  warning  of  the  legal  toil  prepared  to 
ensnare  him.  The  knowing  Pierre  immediately  landed  and 
took  to  the  woods,  followed  hy  his  squaw  laden  with  their 
papooses,  and  a  large  bundle  containing  their  most  precious 
effects,  promising  to  rejoin  the  party  some  distance  above  St. 
the  Charles.  There  seemed  little  dependence  to  be  placed  upon 
promises  of  a  loose  adventurer  of  the  kind,  who  was  at  the 
very  time  playing  an  evasive  game  with  his  former  employers ; 
who  had  already  received  two  thirds  of  his  year's  pay,  and  had 
his  rifle  on  his  shoulder,  his  family  and  worldly  fortune  at  his 
heels,  and  the  wild  woods  before  him.  There  was  no  alterna 
tive,  however,  and  it  was  hoped  his  pique  against  his  old 
employers  would  render  him  faithful  to  his  new  ones. 

The  party  reached  St.  Charles  in  the  afternoon,  but  the  har 
pies  of  the  law  looked  in  vain  for  their  expected  prey.  The 
boats  resumed  their  course  on  the  following  morning,  and  had 
not  proceeded  far  when  Pierre  Dorion  made  his  appearance  on 
the  shore.  He  was  gladly  taken  on  board,  but  he  came  with 
out  his  squaw.  They  had  quarrelled  in  the  night ;  Pierre  had 
administered  the  Indian  discipline  of  the  cudgel,  whereupon 
she  had  taken  to  the  woods,  with  their  children  and  all  their 
worldly  goods.  Pierre  evidently  was  deeply  grieved  and  dis 
concerted  at  the  loss  of  his  wife  and  his  knapsack,  wherefore 
Mr.  Hunt  dispatched  one  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs  in  search 
of  the  fugitives ;  and  the  whole  party,  after  proceeding  a  few 
miles  further,  encamped  on  an  island  to  await  his  return.  The 
Canadian  rejoined  the  party,  but  without  the  squaw;  and 
Pierre  Dorion  passed  a  solitary  and  anxious  night,  bitterly 
regretting  his  indiscretion  in  having  exercised  his  conjugal 
authority  so  near  home.  Before  daybreak,  however,  a  well- 
known  voice  reached  his  ears  from  the  opposite  shore.  It  was 
his  repentant  spouse,  who  had  been  wandering  the  woods  all 
night  in  quest  of  the  party,  and  had  at  length  descried  it  by  its 
fires.  A  boat  was  dispatched  for  her,  the  interesting  family 
was  once  more  united,  and  Mr.  Hunt  now  flattered  himself 
that  his  perplexities  with  Pierre  Dorion  were  at  an  end. 

Bad  weather,  very  heavy  rains,  and  an  unusually  early  rise 
in  the  Missouri  rendered  the  ascent  of  the  river  toilsome,  slow, 
and  dangerous.  The  rise  of  the  Missouri  does  not  generally 
take  place  until  the  month  of  May  or  June ;  the  present  swell 
ing  of  the  river  must  have  been  caused  by  a  freshet  in  some  of 
its  more  southern  branches.  It  could  not  have  been  the  great 


ASTORIA.  Ho 

annual  flood,  as  the  higher  branches  must  still  have  been  icej 
bound. 

And  here  we  cannot  but  pause,  to  notice  the  admirable 
arrangement  of  nature,  by  which  the  annual  swellings  of  the 
various  great  rivers  which  empty  themselves  into  the  Missis 
sippi  have  been  made  to  precede  each  other  at  considerable 
intervals.  Thus,  the  flood  of  the  Red  River  precedes  that  of 
the  Arkansas  by  a  month.  The  Arkansas,  also,  rising  in  a 
much  more  southern  latitude  than  the  Missouri,  takes  the  lead 
of  it  in  its  annual  excess,  and  its  superabundant  waters  are 
disgorged  and  disposed  of  long  before  the  breaking  up  of  the 
icy  barriers  of  the  north;  otherwise,  did  all  these  mighty 
streams  rise  simultaneously,  and  discharge  their  vernal  floods 
into  the  Mississippi,  an  inundation  would  be  the  consequence, 
that  would  submerge  and  devastate  all  the  lower  country. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day,  January  17th,  the  boats 
touched  at  Charette,  one  of  the  old  villages  founded  by  tho 
original  French  colonists.  Here  they  met  with  Daniel  Boone, 
the  renowned  patriarch  of  Kentucky,  who  had  kept  in  the 
advance  of  civilization,  and  on  the  borders  of  the  wilderness, 
still  leading  a  hunter's  life,  though  now  in  his  eighty-fifth  year. 
He  had  but  recently  returned  from  a  hunting  and  trapping 
expedition,  and  had  brought  nearly  sixty  beaver  skins  as 
trophies  of  his  skill.  The  old  man  was  still  erect  in  form, 
strong  in  limb,  and  unflinching  in  spirit ;  and  as  he  stood  on 
the  river  bank,  watching  the  departure  of  an  expedition  des 
tined  to  traverse  the  wilderness  to  the  very  shores  of  the 
Pacific,  very  probably  felt  a  throb  of  his  old  pioneer  spirit, 
impelling  him  to  shoulder  his  rifle  and  join  the  adventurous 
band.  Boone  flourished  several  years  after  this  meeting,  in  a 
vigorous  old  age,  the  Nestor  of  hunters  and  backwoodsmen; 
and  died,  full  of  sylvan  honor  and  renown,  in  1818,  in  his 
ninety-second  year. 

The  next  morning  early,  as  the  party  were  yet  encamped  at 
the  mouth  of  a  small  stream,  they  were  visited  by  another  o^ 
those  heroes  of  the  wilderness,  one  John  Colter,  who  had 
accompanied  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  their  memorable  expedition. 
He  had  recently  made  one  of  those  vast  internal  voyages  so 
characteristic  of  this  fearless  class  of  men,  and  of  the  immense 
regions  over  which  they  hold  their  lonely  wanderings ;  having 
come  from  the  head- waters  of  the  Missouri  to  St.  Louis  in  a 
small  canoe.  This  distance  of  three  thousand  miles  he  had 
accomplished  in  thirty  days.  Colter  kept  with  the  party  all 


116  ASTORIA. 

the  moining.  He  had  many  particulars  to  give  them  concern 
ing  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  a  restless  and  predatory  tribe,  who 
had  conceived  an  implacable  hostility  to  the  white  men,  in 
consequence  of  one  of  their  warriors  having  been  killed  by 
Captain  Lewis,  while  attempting  to  steal  horses.  Through  the 
country  infested  by  these  savages  the  expedition  would  have 
to  proceed,  and  Colter  was  urgent  in  reiterating  the  precau 
tions  that  ought  to  be  observed  respecting  them.  He  had 
himself  experienced  their  vindictive  cruelty,  and  his  story 
deserves  particular  citation,  as  showing  the  hair-breadth  ad 
ventures  to  which  these  solitary  rovers  of  the  wilderness  are 
exposed. 

Colter,  with  the  hardihood  of  a  regular  trapper,  had  cast 
himself  loose  from  the  party  of  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  wilderness,  and  had  remained  to  trap  beaver 
alone  on  the  head-waters  of  the  Missouri.  Here  he  fell  in  with 
another  lonely  trapper,  like  himself,  named  Potts,  and  they 
agreed  to  keep  together.  They  were  in  the  very  region  of  the 
terrible  Blackfeet,  at  that  time  thirsting  to  revenge  the  death 
of  their  companion,  and  knew  that*  they  had  to  expect  no 
mercy  at  their  hands.  They  were  obliged  to  keep  concealed 
all  day  in  the  woody  margins  of  the  rivers,  setting  their  traps 
after  nightfall,  and  taking  them  up  before  daybreak.  It  was 
running  a  fearful  risk  for  the  sake  of  a  few  beaver  skins ;  but 
such  is  the  life  of  the  trapper. 

They  were  on  a  branch  of  the  Missouri  called  Jefferson's 
Fork,  and  had  set  their  traps  at  night,  about  six  miles  up  a 
small  river  that  emptied  into  the  fork.  Early  in  the  morning 
they  ascended  the  river  in  a  canoe,  to  examine  the  traps.  The 
banks  on  each  side  were  high  and  perpendicular,  and  cast  a 
shade  over  the  stream.  As  they  were  softly  paddling  along, 
they  heard  the  trampling  of  many  feet  upon  the  banks.  Colter 
immediately  gave  the  alarm  of  "Indians!"  and  was  for  in 
stant  retreat.  Potts  scoffed  at  him  for  being  frightened  by  the 
trampling  of  a  herd  of  buffaloes.  Colter  checked  his  uneasi 
ness,  and  paddled  forward.  They  had  not  gone  much  further 
whei"  frightful  whoops  and  yells  burst  forth  from  each  side  of 
the  river,  and  several  hundred  Indians  appeared  on  either 
bank.  Signs  were  made  to  the  unfortunate  trappers  to  come 
on  shore.  They  were  obliged  to  comply.  Before  they  could 
get  out  of  their  canoes,  a  savage  seized  the  rifle  belonging  to 
Potts.  Colter  sprang  on  shore,  wrested  the  weapon  from  the 
hands  of  the  Indian,-  and  restored  it  to  his  companion,  who 


ASTORIA.  117 

was  still  in  the  canoe,  and  immediately  pushed  into  the  stream. 
There  was  the  sharp  twang  of  a  bow,  and  Potts  cried  out  that 
he  was  wounded.  Colter  urged  him  to  come  on  shore  and  sub 
mit,  as  his  only  chance  for  life ;  but  the  other  knew  there  was 
no  prospect  of  mercy,  and  determined  to  die  game.  Levelling 
his  rifle,  he  shot  one  of  the  savages  dead  on  the  spot.  The 
next  moment  he  fell  himself,  pierced  with  innumerable  arrows. 
The  vengeance  of  the  savages  now  turned  upon  Colter.  He 
was  stripped  naked,  and,  having  some  knowledge  of  the  Black- 
foot  language,  overheard  a  consultation  as  to  the  mode  of  dis 
patching  him,  so  as  to  derive  the  greatest  amusement  from  his 
death.  Some  were  for  setting  him  up  as  a  mark,  and  having 
a  trial  of  skill  at  his  expense.  The  chief,  however,  was  for 
nobler  sport.  He  seized  Colter  by  the  shoulder,  and  demanded 
if  he  could  run  fast.  The  unfortunate  trapper  was  too  well 
acquainted  with  Indian  customs  not  to  comprehend  the  drift 
of  the  question.  He  knew  he  was  to  run  for  his  life,  to  furnish 
a  kind  of  human  hunt  to  his  persecutors.  Though  in  reality 
he  was  noted  among  his  brother  hunters  for  swiftness  of  foot, 
he  assured  the  chief  that  he  was  a  very  bad  runner.  His 
stratagem  gained  him  some  vantage  ground.  He  was  led  by 
the  chief  into  the  prairie,  about  four  hundred  yards  from  the 
main  body  of  savages,  and  then  turned  loose  to  save  himself  if 
he  could.  A  tremendous  yell  let  him  know  that  the  whole 
pack  of  bloodhounds  were  off  in  full  cry.  Colter  flew,  rather 
than  ran ;  he  was  astonished  at  his  own  speed ;  but  he  had  six 
miles  of  prairie  to  traverse  before  he  should  reach  the  Jeffer 
son  Fork  of  the  Missouri ;  how  could  he  hope  to  hold  out  such 
a  distance  with  the  fearful  odds  of  several  hundred  to  one 
against  him !  The  plain,  too,  abounded  with  the  prickly  pear, 
which  wounded  his  naked  feet.  Still  he  fled  on,  dreading  each 
moment  to  hear  the  twang  of  a  bow,  and  to  feel  an  arrow 
quivering  at  his  heart.  He  did  not  even  dare  to  look  round, 
lest  he  should  lose  an  inch  of  that  distance  on  which  his  life 
depended.  He  had  ran  nearly  half  way  across  the  plain  when 
the  sound  of  pursuit  grew  somewhat  fainter,  and  he  ventured 
to  turn  his  head.  The  main  body  of  his  pursuers  were  a  con 
siderable  distance  behind ;  several  of  the  fastest  runners  were 
scattered  in  the  advance ;  while  a  swift-footed  warrior,  armed 
with  a  spear,  was  not  more  that  a  hundred  yurds  behind  him. 

Inspired  with  new  hope,  Colter  redoubled  his  exertions,  but 
strained  himself  to  such  a  degree  that  the  blood  gushed  from 
his  mouth  and  nostrils  and  streamed  d^wn  his  breast.  He 


118  ASTORIA. 

arrived  within  a  mile  of  the  river.  The  sound  of  footsteps 
gathered  upon  him.  A  glance  behind  showed  his  pursuer 
within  twenty  yards,  and  preparing  to  launch  his  spear. 
Stopping  short,  he  turned  round  and  spread  out  his  arms. 
The  savage,  confounded  by  this  sudden  action,  attempted  to 
stop  and  hurl  his  spear,  but  fell  in  the  very  act.  His  spear  stuck 
in  the  ground,  and  the  shaft  broke  in  his  hand.  Colter  plucked 
up  the  pointed  part,  pinned  the  savage  to  the  earth,  and  con 
tinued  his  flight.  The  Indians,  as  they  arrived  at  their  slaugh 
tered  companion,  stopped  to  howl  over  him.  Colter  made  the 
most  of  this  precious  delay,  gained  the  skirt  of  cotton-wood 
bordering  the  river,  dashed  through  it,  and  plunged  into  the 
stream.  He  swam  to  a  neighboring  island,  against  the  upper 
end  of  which  the  driftwood  had  lodged  in  such  quantities  as  to 
form  a  natural  raft;  under  this  he  dived,  and  swam  below 
water  until  he  succeeded  in  getting  a  breathing  place  between 
the  floating  trunks  of  trees,  whose  branches  and  bushes  formed 
a  covert  several  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water.  He  had 
scarcely  drawn  breath  after  all  his  toils,  when  he  heard  his 
pursuers  on  the  river  bank,  whooping  and  yelling  like  so  many 
fiends.  They  plunged  in  the  river,  and  swam  to  the  raft.  The 
heart  of  Colter  almost  died  within  him  as  he  saw  them,  through 
the  chinks  of  his  concealment,  passing  and  repassing,  and 
seeking  for  him  in  all  directions.  They  at  length  gave  up  the 
search,  and  he  began  to  rejoice  in  his  escape,  when  the  idea 
presented  itself  that  they  might  set  the  raft  on  fire.  Here  was 
a  new  source  of  horrible  apprehension,  in  which  he  remained 
until  nightfall.  Fortunately,  the  idea  did  not  suggest  itself  to 
the  Indians.  As  soon  as  it  was  dark,  finding  by  the  silence 
around  that  his  pursuers  had  departed,  Colter  dived  again  and 
came  up  beyond  the  raft.  He  then  swam  silently  down  the 
river  for  a  considerable  distance,  when  he  landed,  and  kept  on 
all  night,  to  get  as  far  as  possible  from  this  dangerous  neigh 
borhood. 

By  daybreak  he  had  gained  sufficient  distance  to  relieve  him 
from  the  terrors  of  his  savage  foes ;  but  now  new  sources  of 
inquietude  presented  thenselves.  He  was  naked  and  alone,  in 
the  midst  of  an  unbounded  wilderness;  his  only  chance  was  to 
reach  a  trading  post  of  the  Missouri  Company,  situated  on  a 
branch  of  the  Yellowstone  River.  Even  should  he  elude  his 
pursuers,  days  must  elapse  before  he  could  reach  this  post, 
during  which  he  must  traverse  immense  prairies  destitute  of 
shade,  his  naked  body  exposed  to  the  burning  heat  of  the  sun 


ASTORIA.  H9 

by  day,  and  the  dews  and  chills  of  the  night  season ;  and  his 
feet  lacerated  by  the  thorns  of  the  prickly  pear.  Though  he 
might  see  game  in  abundance  around  him,  he  had  no  means 
of  killing  any  for  his  sustenance,  and  must  depend  for  food 
upon  the  roots  of  the  earth.  In  defiance  of  these  difficulties 
he  pushed  resolutely  forward,  guiding  himself  in  his  trackless 
course  by  those  signs  and  indications  known  only  to  Indians 
and  backwoodsmen ;  and  after  braving  dangers  and  hardships 
enough  to  break  down  any  spirit  but  that  of  a  western  pioneer, 
arrived  safe  at  the  solitary  post  in  question.* 

Such  is  a  sample  of  the  rugged  experience  which  Colter  had 
to  relate  of  savage  life ;  yet,  with  all  these  perils  and  terrors 
fresh  in  his  recollection,  he  could  not  see  the  present  band  on 
their  way  to  those  regions  of  danger  and  adventure,  without 
feeling  a  vehement  impulse  to  join  them.  A  western  trapper 
is  like  a  sailor;  past  hazards  only  stimulate  him  to  further 
risks.  The  vast  prairie  is  to  the  one  what  the  ocean  is  to  the 
other,  a  boundle'ss  field  of  enterprise  and  exploit.  'However  he 
may  have  suffered  in  his  last  cruise,  he  is  always  ready  to  join 
a  new  expedition ;  and  the  more  adventurous  its  nature,  the 
more  attractive  is  it  to  his  vagrant  spirit. 

Nothing  seems  to  have  kept  Colter  from  continuing  with  the 
party  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  but  the  circumstance  of  his 
having  recently  married.  All  the  morning  he  kept  with  them, 
balancing  in  his  mind  the  charms  of  his  bride  against  those  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains;  the  former,  however  prevailed,  and 
after  a  march  of  several  miles,  he  took  a  reluctant  leave  of  the 
travellers,  and  turned  his  face  homeward. 

Continuing  their  progress  up  the  Missouri,  the  party  en 
camped,  on  the  evening  of  the  21st  of  March,  in  the  neighbor 
hood  of  a  little  frontier  village  of  French  Creoles.  Here  Pierre 
Dorion  met  with  some  of  his  old  comrades,  with  whom  he  had 
a  long  gossip,  and  returned  to  the  camp  with  rumors  of  bloody 
feuds  between  the  Osages  and  the  loways,  or  Ayaways,  Poto- 
watomies,  Sioux,  and  Sawkees.  Blood  had  already  been  shed, 
and  scalps  been  taken.  A  war  party,  three  hundred  strong, 
were  prowling  in  the  neighborhood ;  others  might  be  met  with 
higher  up  the  river;  it  behooved  the  travellers,  therefore,  to 
be  upon  their  guard  against  robbery  or  surprise,  for  an  Indian 
war  party  on  the  march  is  prone  to  acts  of  outrage. 

In  consequence  of  this  report,  which  was  subsequently  con- 


*  Bradbury.     Travels  in  America,  p.  17. 


120  ASTORIA. 

firmed  by  further  intelligence,  a  guard  was  kept  up  at  night 
round  the  encampment,  and  they  all  slept  on  their  arms.  As 
they  were  sixteen  in  number,  and  well  supplied  with  weapons 
and  ammunition,  they  trusted  to  be  able  to  give  any  maraud 
ing  party  a  warm  reception.  Nothing  occurred,  however,  to 
molest  them  on  their  voyage,  and  on  the  8th  of  April,  they 
came  in  sight  of  Fort  Osage.  On  their  approach  the  flag  was 
hoisted  on  the  fort,  and  they  saluted  it  by  a  discharge  of  fire 
arms.  Within  a  short  distance  of  the  fort  was  an  Osage  vil 
lage,  the  inhabitants  of  which,  men,  women  and  children, 
thronged  down  to  the  water  side  to  witness  their  landing. 
One  of  the  first  persons  they  met  on  the  river  bank  was  Mr. 
Crooks,  who  had  come  down  in  a  boat,  with  nine  men,  from 
the  winter  encampment  at  Nodowa,  to  meet  them. 

They  remained  at  Fort  Osage  a  part  of  three  days,  during 
which  they  were  hospitably  entertained  at  the  garrison  by 
Lieutenant  Brownson,  who  held  a  temporary  command.  They 
were  regaled  also  with  a  war-feast  at  the  village ;  the  Osage 
warriors  having  returned  from  a  successful  foray  against  the 
loways,  in  which  they  had  taken  seven  scalps.  These  were 
paraded  on  poles  about  the  village,  followed  by  the  warriors 
decked  out  in  all  their  savage  ornaments,  and  hideously  painted 
as  if  for  battle. 

By  the  Osage  warriors,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  were 
again  warned  to  be  on  their  guard  in  ascending  the  river,  as 
the  Sioux  tribe  meant  to  lay  in  wait  and  attack  them. 

On  the  10th  of  April  they  again  embarked,  their  party  being 
now  augmented  to  twenty-six,  by  the  addition  of  Mr.  Crooks 
and  his  boat's  crew.  They  had  not  proceeded  far,  however, 
when  there  was  a  great  outcry  from  one  of  the  boats ;  it  was 
occasioned  by  a  little  domestic  discipline  in  the  Dorion  family. 
The  squaw  of  the  worthy  interpreter,  it  appeared,  had  been  so 
delighted  with  the  scalp-dance,  and  other  festivities  of  the 
Osage  village,  that  she  had  taken  a  strong  inclination  to  re 
main  there.  This  had  been  as  strongly  opposed  by  her  liege 
lord,  who  had  compelled  her  to  embark.  The  good  dame  had 
remained  sulky  ever  since,  whereupon  Pierre,  seeing  no  other 
mode  of  exorcising  the  evil  spirit  out  of  her,  and  being,  per 
haps,  a  little  inspired  by  whiskey,  had  resorted  to  the  Indian 
remedy  of  the  cudgel,  and,  before  his  neighbors  could  interfere, 
had  belabored  her  so  soundly  that  there  is  no  record  of  her 
having  shown  any  refractory  symptoms  throughout  the  re< 
mainder  of  the  expedition 


ASTORIA.  121 

For  a  week  they  continued  their  voyage,  exposed  to  almost 
incessant  rains.  The  bodies  of  drowned  buffaloes  floated  past 
them  in  vast  numbers ;  many  had  drifted  upon  the  shore,  or 
against  the  upper  ends  of  the  rafts  and  islands.  These  had  at 
tracted  great  flights  of  turkey-buzzards ;  some  were  banquet 
ing  on  the  carcasses,  others  were  soaring  far  aloft  in  the  sky, 
and  others  were  perched  on  the  trees,  with  their  backs  to  the 
sun,  and  their  wings  stretched  out  to  dry,  like  so  many  vessels 
in  harbor,  spreading  their  sails  after  a  shower. 

The  turkey -buzzard  (vultur  aura,  or  golden  vulture),  when 
on  the  wing,  is  one  of  the  most  specious  and  imposing  of  birds. 
Its  flight  in  the  upper  regions  of  the  air  is  really  sublime,  ex 
tending  its  immense  wings,  and  wheeling  slowly  and  majesti 
cally  to  and  fro,  seemingly  without  exerting  a  muscle  or  flutter 
ing  a  feather,  but  moving  by  mere  volition,  and  sailing  on 
the  bosom  of  the  air  as  a  ship  upon  the  ocean.  Usurping  the 
empyreal  realm  of  the  eagle,  he  assumes  for  a  time  the  port 
and  dignity  of  that  majestic  bird,  and  often  is  mistaken  for 
him  by  ignorant  crawlers  upon  earth.  It  is  only  when  he  de 
scends  from  the  clouds  to  pounce  upon  carrion  that  he  betrays 
his  low  propensities,  and  reveals  his  caitiff  character.  Near  at 
hand  he  is  a  disgusting  bird,  ragged  in  plumage,  base  in  aspect, 
and  of  loathsome  odor. 

On  the  17th  of  April  Mr.  Hunt  arrived  with  his  party  at  the 
station  near  the  Nodowa  River,  where  the  main  body  had  been 
quartered  during  the  winter. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

THE  weather  continued  rainy  and  ungenial  for  some  days 
after  Mr.  Hunt's  return  to  Nodowa;  yet  spring  was  rapidly  ad 
vancing  and  vegetation  was  putting  forth  with  all  its  early 
freshness  and  beauty.  The  snakes  began  to  recover  from  their 
torpor  and  crawl  forth  into  day,  and  the  neighborhood  of  the 
wintering  house  seems  to  have  been  much  infested  with  them. 
Mr.  Bradbury,  in  the  course  of  his  botanical  researches,  found 
a  surprising  number  in  a  half  torpid  state,  under  flat  stones 
upon  the  banks  which  overhung  the  cantonment,  and  narrowly 
escaped  being  struck  by  a  rattlesnake,  which  started  at  him 
from  a  cleft  in  the  rock,  but  fortunately  gave  him  warning  by 
its  rattle. 


122  ASTORIA. 

The  pigeons  too  were  filling  the  woods  in  vast  migratory 
flocks.  It  is  almost  incredible  to  describe  the  prodigious  flights 
of  these  birds  in  the  western  wildernesses.  They  appear  ab 
solutely  in  clouds,  and  move  with  astonishing  velocity,  their 
wings  making  a  whistling  sound  as  they  fly.  The  rapid  evolu 
tions  of  these  flocks,  wheeling  and  shifting  suddenly  as  if  with 
one  mind  and  one  impulse ;  the  flashing  changes  of  color  they 
present,  as  their  backs,  their  breasts,  or  the  under  part  of 
their  wings  are  turned  to  the  spectator,  are  singularly  pleas 
ing.  When  they  alight,  if  on  the  ground,  they  cover  whole 
acres  at  a  time ;  if  upon  trees,  the  branches  often  break  beneath 
their  weight.  If  suddenly  startled  while  feeding  in  the  midst 
of  a  forest,  the  noise  they  make  in  getting  on  the  wing  is  like 
the  roar  of  a  cataract  or  the  sound  of  distant  thunder. 

A  flight  of  this  kind,  like  an  Egyptian  flight  of  locusts,  de 
vours  everything  that  serves  for  its  food  as  it  passes  along.  So 
great  were  the  numbers  in  the  vicinity  of  the  camp  that  Mr. 
Bradbury,  in  the  course  of  a  morning's  excursion,  shot  nearly 
three  hundred  with  a  fowling-piece.  He  gives  a  curious,  though 
apparently  a  faithful,  account  of  the  kind  of  discipline  observed 
in  these  immense  flocks,  so  that  each  may  have  a  chance  of 
picking  up  food.  As  the  front  ranks  must  meet  with  the  great 
est  abundance,  and  the  rear  ranks  must  have  scanty  pickings, 
the  instant  a  rank  finds  itself  the  hindmost,  it  rises  in  the  air, 
flies  over  the  whole  flock,  and  takes  its  place  in  the  advance. 
The  next  rank  follows  in  its  course,  and  thus  the  last  is  con 
tinually  becoming  first,  and  all  by  turns  have  a  front  place  at 
the  banquet. 

The  rains  having  at  length  subsided,  Mr.  Hunt  broke  up  the 
encampment  and  resumed  his  course  up  the  Missouri. 

The  party  now  consisted  of  nearly  sixty  persons :  of  whom 
five  were  partners ;  one,  John  Reed,  was  a  clerk ;  forty  were 
Canadian  "  voyageurs,"  or  "  engages, "  and  there  were  several 
hunters.  They  embarked  in  four  boats,  one  of  which  was  of  a 
large  size,  mounting  a  swivel  and  two  howitzers.  All  were 
furnished  with  masts  and  sails,  to  be  used  when  the  wind  was 
sufficiently  favorable  and  strong  to  overpower  the  current  of 
the  river.  Such  was  the  case  for  the  first  four  or  five  days, 
when  they  were  wafted  steadily  up  the  stream  by  a  strong 
southeaster. 

Their  encampments  at  night  were  often  pleasant  and  pictu 
resque  :  on  some  beautiful  bank  beneath  spreading  trees,  which 
afforded  them  shelter  and  fuel.  The  tents  were  pitched,  the 


ASTORIA.  123 

fires  made  and  the  meals  prepared  by  the  voyageurs,  and 
many  a  story  was  told,  and  joke  passed,  and  song  sung,  round 
the  evening  fire.  All,  however,  were  asleep  at  an  early  hour. 
Some  under  the  tents,  others  wrapped  in  blankets  before  the 
fire,  or  beneath  the  trees;  and  some  few  in  the  boats  and 
canoes. 

On  the  28th  they  breakfasted  on  one  of  the  islands  which  lie 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  River,  the  largest  tribu 
tary  of  the  Missouri,  and  about  six  hundred  miles  above  its 
confluence  with  the  Mississippi.  This  broad  but  shallow  stream 
flows  for  an  immense  distance  through  a  wide  and  verdant  val 
ley  scooped  out  of  boundless  prairies.  It  draws  its  main  sup 
plies,  by  several  forks  or  branches,  from  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  mouth  of  this  river  is  established  as  the  dividing  point  be 
tween  the  upper  and  lower  Missouri ;  and  the  earlier  voyagers 
in  their  toilsome  ascent,  before  the  introduction  of  steamboats, 
considered  one  half  of  their  labors  accomplished  when  they 
reached  this  place.  The  passing  of  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska, 
therefore,  was  equivalent  among  boatmen  to  the  crossing  of 
the  line  among  sailors,  and  was  celebrated  with  like  ceremoni 
als  of  a  rough  and  waggish  nature,  practised  upon  the  unini 
tiated;  among  which  was  the  old  nautical  joke  of  shaving. 
The  river  deities,  however,  like  those  of  the  sea,  were  to  be  pro 
pitiated  by  a  bribe,  and  the  infliction  of  these  rude  honors  to 
be  parried  by  a  treat  to  the  adepts. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska  new  signs  were  met  with  of 
war  parties  which  had  recently  been  in  the  vicinity.  There 
was  the  frame  of  a  skin  canoe,  in  which  the  warriors  had 
traversed  the  river.  At  night,  also,  the  lurid  reflection  of 
immense  fires  hung  in  the  sky,  showing  the  conflagration  of 
great  tracts  of  the  prairies.  Such  fires  not  being  made  by 
hunters  so  late  in  the  season,  it  was  supposed  they  were  caused 
by  some  wandering  war  parties.  These  often  take  the  precau 
tion  to  set  the  prairies  on  fire  behind  them  to  conceal  their 
traces  from  their  enemies.  This  is  chiefly  done  when  the 
party  has  been  unsuccessful,  and  is  on  the  retreat  and  appre 
hensive  of  pursuit.  At  such  time  it  is  not  safe  even  for 
friends  to  fall  in  with  them,  as  they  are  apt  to  be  in  savage 
humor,  and  disposed  to  vent  their  spleen  in  capricious  out 
rage.  These  signs,  therefore,  of  a  band  of  marauders  on  the 
prowl,  called  for  some  degree  of  vigilance  on  the  part  of  the 
travellers. 

After  passing  the  Nebraska,  the  party  halted  for  part  of  two 


124  ASTORIA. 

days  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  a  little  above  Papillion  Creek, 
to  supply  themselves  with  a  stock  of  oars  and  poles  from  the 
tough  wood  of  the  ash,  which  is  not  met  with  higher  up  the 
Missouri.  While  the  voyageurs  were  thus  occupied,  the 
naturalists  rambled  over  the  adjacent  country  to  collect 
plants.  From  the  summit  of  a  range  of  bluffs  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  they 
had  one  of  those  vast  and  magnificent  prospects  which  some 
times  unfold  themselves  in  these  boundless  regions.  Below 
them  was  the  valley  of  the  Missouri,  about  seven  miles  in 
breadth,  clad  in  the  fresh  verdure  of  spring;  enamelled  with 
flowers  and  interspersed  with  clumps  and  groves  of  noble  trees, 
between  which  the  mighty  river  poured  its  turbulent  and  tur 
bid  stream.  The  interior  of  the  country  presented  a  singular 
scene;  the  immense  waste  being  broken  up  by  innumerable 
green  hills,  not  above  eighty  feet  in  height,  but  extremely 
steep,  and  acutely  pointed  at  their  summits.  A  long  line  of 
bluffs  extended  for  upward  of  thirty  miles,  parallel  to  the  Mis 
souri,  with  a  shallow  lake  stretching  along  their  base,  which 
had  evidently  once  formed  a  bed  of  the  river.  The  surface  of 
this  lake  was  covered  with  aquatic  plants,  on  the  broad  leaves 
of  which  numbers  of  water-snakes,  drawn  forth  by  the  genial 
warmth  of  spring,  were  basking  in  the  sunshine. 

On  the  2d  of  May,  at  the  usual  hour  of  embarking,  the 
camp  was  thrown  into  some  confusion  by  two  of  the  hunters, 
named  Harrington,  expressing  their  intention  to  abandon  the 
expedition  and  return  home.  One  of  these  had  joined  the 
party  in  the  preceding  autumn,  having  been  hunting  for  two 
years  on  the  Missouri;  the  other  had  engaged  at  St.  Louis,  in 
the  following  March,  and  had  come  up  from  thence  with  Mr. 
Hunt.  He  now  declared  that  he  had  enlisted  merely  for  the 
purpose  of  following  his  brother,  and  persuading  him  to  re 
turn;  having  been  enjoined  to  do  so  by  his  mother,  whose 
anxiety  had  been  awakened  by  the  idea  of  his  going  on  such  a 
wild  and  distant  expedition. 

The  loss  of  two  stark  hunters  and  prime  riflemen  was  a  seri 
ous  affair  to  the  party,  for  they  were  approaching  the  region 
where  they  might  expect  hostilities  from  the  Sioux ;  indeed, 
throughout  the  whole  of  their  perilous  journey,  the  services  of 
such  men  would  be  all  important,  for  little  reliance  was  to  be 
placed  upon  the  valor  of  the  Canadians  in  case  of  attack.  Mr. 
Hunt  endeavored  by  arguments,  expostulations,  and  entrea 
ties,  to  shake  the  determination  of  the  two  brothers.  He 


ASTORIA.  125 

represented  to  them  that  they  were  between  six  and  seven 
hundred  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri;  that  they 
would  have  four  hundred  miles  to  go  before  they  could  reach 
the  habitation  of  a  white  man,  throughout  which  they  would 
be  exposed  to  all  kinds  of  risks ;  since  he  declared,  if  they  per 
sisted  in  abandoning  him  and  breaking  their  faith,  he  would 
not  furnish  them  with  a  single  round  of  ammunition.  All  was 
in  vain ;  they  obstinately  persisted  in  their  resolution ;  where 
upon  Mr.  Hunt,  partly  incited  by  indignation,  partly  by  the 
policy  of  deterring  others  from  desertion,  put  his  threat  in 
execution,  and  left  thern  to  find  their  way  back  to  the  settle 
ments  without,  as  he  supposed,  a  single  bullet  or  charge  of 
powder. 

The  boats  now  continued  their  slow  and  toilsome  course  for 
several  days,  against  the  current  of  the  river.  The  late  signs 
of  roaming  war  parties  caused  a  vigilant  watch  to  be  kept  up 
at  night  when  the  crews  encamped  on  shore;  nor  was  this 
vigilance  superfluous ;  for  on  the  night  of  the  seventh  instant 
there  was  a  wild  and  fearful  yell,  and  eleven  Sioux  warriors, 
stark  naked,  with  tomahawks  in  their  hands,  rushed  into  the 
camp.  They  were  instantly  surrounded  and  seized,  where 
upon  their  leader  called  out  to  his  followers  to  desist  from  any 
violence,  and  pretended  to  be  perfectly  pacific  in  his  inten 
tions.  It  proved,  however,  that  they  were  a  part  of  the  war 
party,  the  skeleton  of  whose  canoe  had  been  seen  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Platte,  and  the  reflection  of  whose  fires  had  been 
descried  in  the  air.  They  had  been  disappointed  or  defeated 
in  their  foray,  and  in  their  rage  and  mortification  these  eleven 
warriors  had  "devoted  their  clothes  to  the  medicine."  This  is 
a  desperate  act  of  Indian  braves  when  foiled  in  war,  and  in 
dread  of  scoffs  and  sneers.  In  such  case  they  sometimes  throw 
off  their  clothes  and  ornaments,  devote  themselves  to  the  Great 
Spirit,  and  attempt  some  reckless  exploit  with  which  to  cover 
their  disgrace.  "Woe  to  any  defenceless  party  of  white  men 
that  may  then  fall  in  their  way ! 

Such  was  the  explanation  given  by  Pierre  Dorion,  the  half- 
breed  interpreter,  of  this  wild  intrusion  into  the  camp ;  and 
the  party  were  so  exasperated  when  apprised  of  the  sanguinary 
intentions  of  the  prisoners,  that  they  were  for  shooting  them 
on  the  spot.  Mr.  Hunt,  however,  exerted  his  usual  modera 
tion  and  humanity,  and  ordered  that  they  should  be  conveyed 
across  the  river  in  one  of  the  boats,  threatening  t'.em,  how 
ever,  with  certain  death,  if  again  caught  in  any  hostile  act. 


126  ASTORIA. 

On  the  10th  of  May  the  party  arrived  at  the  Omaha  (pro 
nounced  Omawhaw)  village,  about  eight  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  encamped  in  its 
neighborhood.  The  village  was  situated  under  a  hill  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  consisted  of  about  eighty  lodges.  These 
were  of  a  circular  and  conical  form,  and  about  sixteen  feet  in 
diameter;  being  mere  tents  of  dressed  buffalo  skins,  sewed 
together  and  stretched  on  long  poles,  inclined  toward  each 
other  so  as  to  cross  at  about  half  their  height.  Thus  the  naked 
tops  of  the  poles  diverge  in  such  a  manner  that,  if  they  were 
covered  with  skins  like  the  lower  ends,  the  tent  would  be 
shaped  like  an  hour-glass,  and  present  the  appearance  of  one 
cone  inverted  on  the  apex  of  another. 

The  forms  of  Indian  lodges  are  worthy  of  attention,  each 
tribe  having  a  different  mode  of  shaping  and  arranging  them, 
so  that  it  is  easy  to  tell,  on  seeing  a  lodge  or  an  encampment 
at  a  distance,  to  what  tribe  the  inhabitants  belong.  The  ex 
terior  of  the  Omaha  lodges  have  often  a  gay  and  fanciful 
appearance,  being  painted  with  undulating  bands  of  red  or 
yellow,  or  decorated  with  rude  figures  of  horses,  deer,  and 
buffaloes,  and  with  human  faces,  painted  like  full  moons,  four 
and  five  feet  broad. 

The  Omahas  were  once  one  of  the  numerous  and  powerful 
tribes  of  the  prairies,  vying  in  warlike  might  and  prowess 
with  the  Sioux,  the  Pawnees,  the  Sauks,  the  Konzas,  and  the 
latans.  Their  wars  with  the  Sioux,  however,  had  thinned 
their  ranks,  and  the  small-pox  in  1802  had  swept  off  two  thirds 
of  their  number.  At  the  time  of  Mr.  Hunt's  visit  they  still 
boasted  about  two  hundred  warriors  and  hunters,  but  they  are 
now  fast  melting  away,  and  before  long  will  be  numbered 
among  those  extinguished  nations  of  the  west  that  exist  but  in 
tradition. 

In  his  correspondence  with  Mr.  Astor,  from  this  point  of  his 
journey,  Mr.  Hunt  gives  a  sad  account  of  the  Indian  tribes 
bordering  on  the  river.  They  were  in  continual  war  with 
each  other,  and  their  wars  were  of  the  most  harassing  kind ; 
consisting,  not  merely  of  main  conflicts  and  expeditions  of 
moment,  involving  the  sackings,  burnings  and  massacres  of 
towns  and  villages,  but  of  individual  acts  of  treachery, 
murder,  and  cold-blooded  cruelty;  or  of  vaunting  and  fool 
hardy  exploits  of  single  warriors,  either  to  avenge  some  per 
sonal  wrong,  or  gain  the  vainglorious  trophy  of  a  scalp.  The 
lonely  hunter,  the  wandering  wayfarer,  the  poor  squaw  cut- 


ASTORIA.  197 

ting  wood  or  gathering  corn,  was  liable  to  be  surprised  and 
slaughtered.  In  this  way  tribes  were  either  swept  away  at 
once,  or  gradually  thinned  out,  and  savage  life  was  surrounded 
with  constant  horrors  and  alarms.  That  the  race  of  red  men 
should  diminish  from  year  to  year,  and  so  few  should  survive 
of  the  numerous  nations  which  evidently  once  peopled  the 
vast  regions  of  the  west,  is  nothing  surprising;  it  is  rather 
matter  of  surprise  that  so  many  should  survive ;  for  the  exist 
ence  of  a  savage  in  these  parts  seems  little  better  than  a  pro 
longed  and  all-besetting  death.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  caricature  of 
the  boasted  romance  of  feudal  times;  chivalry  in  its  native 
and  uncultured  state,  and  knight-errantry  run  wild. 

In  their  more  prosperous  days,  the  Omahas  looked  upon 
themselves  as  the  most  powerful  and  perfect  of  human  beings, 
and  considered  all  created  things  as  made  for  their  peculiar  use 
and  benefit.  It  is  this  tribe  of  whose  chief,  the  famous  Wash- 
in  g-guh-sah-ba,  or  Blackbird,  such  savage  and  romantic  stories 
are  told.  He  had  died  about  ten  years  previous  to  the  arrival 
of  Mr.  Hunt's  party,  but  his  name  was  still  mentioned  with 
awe  by  his  people.  He  was  one  of  the  first  among  the  Indian 
chiefs  on  the  Missouri  to  deal  with  the  white  traders,  and 
showed  great  sagacity  in  levying  his  royal  dues.  When  a 
trader  arrived  in  his  village,  he  caused  all  his  goods  to  be 
brought  into  his  lodge  and  opened.  From  these  he  selected 
whatever  suited  his  sovereign  pleasure — blankets,  tobacco, 
whiskey,  powder,  ball,  beads,  and  red  paint— and  laid  the 
articles  on  one  side,  without  deigning  to  give  any  compensa 
tion.  Then  calling  to  him  his  herald  or  crier,  he  would  order 
him  to  mount  on  top  of  the  lodge  and  summon  all  the  tribe  to 
bring  in  their  peltries,  and  trade  with  the  white  man.  The 
lodge  would  soon  be  crowded  with  Indians  bringing  bear, 
beaver,  otter,  and  other  skins.  No  one  was  allowed  to  dispute 
the  prices  fixed  by  the  white  trader  upon  his  articles,  who 
took  care  to  indemnify  himself  five  times  over  for  the  goods 
set  apart  by  the  chief.  In  this  way  the  Blackbird  enriched 
himself,  and  enriched  the  white  men,  and  became  exceedingly 
popular  among  the  traders  of  the  Missouri.  His  people,  how 
ever,  were  not  equally  satisfied  by  a  regulation  of  trade  which 
worked  so  manifestly  against  them,  and  began  to  show  signs 
of  discontent.  Upon  this  a  crafty  and  unprincipled  trader 
revealed  a  secret  to  the  Blackbird,  by  which  he  might  acquire 
unbounded  sway  over  his  ignorant  and  superstitious  subjects. 
He  instructed  him  in  the  poisonous  qualities  of  arsenic,  and 


128  ASTORIA. 

furnished  him  with  an  ample  supply  of  that  baneful  drug. 
From  this  time  the  Blackbird  seemed  endowed  with  super 
natural  powers,  to  possess  the  gift  of  prophecy,  and  to  hold 
the  disposal  of  life  and  death  within  his  hands.  Woe  to  any 
one  who  questioned  his  authority,  or  dared  to  dispute  his  com 
mands  !  The  Blackbird  prophesied  his  death  within  a  certain 
time,  and  he  had  the  secret  means  of  verifying  his  prophecy. 
Within  the  fated  period  the  offender  was  smitten  with  strange 
and  sudden  disease,  and  perished  from  the  face  of  the  earth. 
Every  one  stood  aghast  at  these  multiplied  examples  of  his 
superhuman  might,  and  dreaded  to  displease  so  omnipotent 
and  vindictive  a  being;  and  the  Blackbird  Qn joyed  a  wide  and 
undisputed  sway. 

It  was  not,  however,  by  terror  alone  that  he  ruled  his 
people ;  he  was  a  warrior  of  the  first  order,  and  his  exploits  in 
arms  were  the  theme  of  young  and  old.  His  career  had  begun 
by  hardships,  having  been  taken  prisoner  by  the  Sioux,  in 
early  youth.  Under  his  command  the  Omahas  obtained  great 
character  for  military  prowess,  nor  did  he  permit  an  insult  or 
injury  to  one  of  his  tribe  to  pass  unrevenged.  The  Pawnee 
republicans  had  inflicted  a  gross  indignity  on  a  favorite  and 
distinguished  -Omaha  brave.  The  Blackbird  assembled  his 
warriors,  led  them  against  the  Pawnee  town,  attacked  it  with 
irresistible  fury,  slaughtered  a  great  number  of  its  inhabitants, 
and  burnt  it  to  the  ground.  He  waged  fierce  and  bloody  war 
against  the  Ottoes  for  many  years,  until  peace  was  effected 
between  them  by  the  mediation  of  the  whites.  Fearless  in 
battle,  and  fond  of  signalizing  himself,  he  dazzled  his  followers 
by  daring  acts.  In  attacking  a  Kanza  village,  he  rode  singly 
round  it,  loading  and  discharging  his  rifle  at  the  inhabitants  as 
he  galloped  past  them.  He  kept  up  in  war  the  same  idea  of 
mysterious  and  supernatural  power.  At  one  time,  when  pur 
suing  a  war-party,  by  their  tracks  across  the  prairies,  he 
repeatedly  discharged  his  rifle  into  the  prints  made  by  their 
feet  and  by  the  hoofs  of  their  horses,  assuring  his  followers 
that  he  would  thereby  cripple  the  fugitives,  so  that  they  would 
easily  be  overtaken.  He  in  fact  did  overtake  them,  and  de 
stroyed  them  almost  to  a  man ;  and  his  victory  was  considered 
miraculous,  both  by  friend  and  foe.  By  these  and  similar  ex 
ploits,  he  made  himself  the  pride  and  boast  of  his  people,  and 
became  popular  among  them,  notwithstanding  his  death- 
denouncing  fiat. 

With  all  his  savage  and  terrific  qualities,  he  was  sensible  of 


ASTORIA.  129 

the  power  of  female  beauty,  and  capable  of  love.  A  war  party 
of  the  Poncas  had  made  a  foray  into  the  lands  of  the  Omahas, 
and  carried  off  a  number  of  women  and  horses.  The  Black 
bird  was  roused  to  fury,  and  took  the  field  with  all  his  braves, 
swearing  to  "eat  up  the  Ponca  nation"— the  Indian  threat  of 
exterminating  war.  The  Poncas,  sorely  pressed,  took  refuge 
behind  a  rude  bulwark  of  earth ;  but  the  Blackbird  kept  up  so 
galling  a  tire  that  he  seemed  likely  to  execute  his  menace.  In 
their  extremity  they  sent  forth  a  herald,  bearing  the  calumet 
or  pipe  of  peace,  but  he  was  shot  down  by  order  of  the  Black 
bird.  Another  herald  was  sent  forth  in  similar  guise,  but  he 
shared  a  like  fate.  The  Ponca  chief  then,  as  a  last  hope, 
arrayed  his  beautiful  daughter  in  her  finest  ornaments,  and 
sent  her  forth  with  a  calumet,  to  sue  for  peace.  The  charms  of 
the  Indian  maid  touched  the  stern  heart  of  the  Blackbird ;  he 
accepted  the  pipe  at  her  hand,  smoked  it,  and  from  that  time 
a  peace  took  place  between  the  Poncas  and  the  Omahas. 

This  beautiful  damsel,  in  all  probability,  was  the  favorite 
wife  whose  fate  makes  so  tragic  an  incident  in  the  story  of  the 
Blackbird.  Her  youth  and  beauty  had  gained  an  absolute 
sway  over  his  rugged  heart,  so  that  he  distinguished  her  above 
all  his  other  wives.  The  habitual  gratification  of  his  vindictive 
impulses,  however,  had  taken  away  from  him  all  mastery 
over  his  passions,  and  rendered  him  liable  to  the  most  furious 
transports  of  rage.  In  one  of  these  his  beautiful  wife  had  the 
misfortune  to  offend  him,  w-hen  suddenly  drawing  his  knife, 
he  laid  her  dead  at  his  feet  with  a  single  blow. 

In  an  instant  his  frenzy  was  at  an  end.  He  gazed  for  a  time 
in  mute  bewilderment  upon  his  victim;  then  drawing  his 
buffalo  robe  over  his  head,  he  sat  down  beside  the  corpse,  and 
remained  brooding  over  his  crime  and  his  loss.  Three  days 
elapsed,  yet  the  chief  continued  silent  and  motionless ;  tasting 
no  food,  and  apparently  sleepless.  It  w^as  apprehended  that 
he  intended  to  starve  himself  to  death ;  his  people  approached 
him  in  trembling  awe,  and  entreated  him  once  more  to  un 
cover  his  face  and  be  comforted;  but  he  remained  unmoved. 
At  length  one  of  his  warriors  brought  in  a  small  child,  and 
laying  it  on  the.  ground,  placed  the  foot  of  the  Blackbird  upon 
its  neck.  The  heart  of  the  gloomy  savage  was  touched  by  this 
appeal ;  he  threw  aside  his  robe ;  made  an  harangue  upon  what 
he  had  done;  and  from  that  time  forward  seemed  to  have 
thrown  the  load  of  grief  and  remorse  from  his  mind. 

He  still  retained  his  fatal  and  mysterious  secret,  and  with  it 


J30  ASTORIA. 

his  terrific  power ;  but,  though  able  to  deal  death  to  his  ene 
mies,  he  could  not  avert  it  from  himself  or  his  friends.  In 
1802  the  small-pox,  that  dreadful  pestilence,  which  swept  over 
the  land  like  a  fire  over  the  prairie,  made  its  appearance  in  the 
village  of  the  Omahas.  The  poor  savages  saw  with  dismay  the 
ravages  of  a  malady,  loathsome  and  agonizing  in  its  details, 
and  which  set  the  skill  and  experience  of  their  conjurors  and 
medicine  men  at  defiance.  In  a  little  while  two  thirds  of  the 
population  were  swept  from  the  face  of  the  earth,  and  the 
doom  of  the  rest  seemed  sealed.  The  stoicism  of  the  warriors 
was  at  an  end;  they  became  wild  and  desperate;  some  set 
fire  to  the  village  as  a  last  means  of  checking  the  pestilence; 
others,  in  a  frenzy  of  despair  put  their  wives  and  children  to 
death,  that  they  might  be  spared  the  agonies  of  an  inevitable 
disease,  and  that  they  might  all  go  to  some  better  country. 

When  the  general  horror  and  dismay  was  at  its  height,  the 
Blackbird  himself  was  struck  down  with  the  malady.  The  poor 
savages,  when  they  saw  their  chief  in  danger,  forgot  their 
own  miseries,  and  surrounded  his  dying  bed.  His  dominant 
spirit,  and  his  love  for  the  white  men,  were  evinced  in  his  latest 
breath,  with  which  he  designated  his  place  of  sepulture.  It 
was  to  be  on  a  hill  or  promontory,  upward  of  four  hundred  feet 
in  height,  overlooking  a  great  extent  of  the  Missouri,  from 
whence  he  had  been  accustomed  to  watch  for  the  barks  of  the 
white  men.  The  Missouri  washes  the  base  of  the  promontory, 
and  after  winding  and  doubling  in  many  links  and  mazes  in 
the  plain  below,  returns  to  within  nine  hundred  yards  of  its 
starting  place;  so  that  for  thirty  miles  navigating  with  sail  and 
oar,  the  voyager  finds  himself  continually  near  to  this  singular 
promontory  as  if  spell-bound. 

It  was  the  dying  command  of  the  Blackbird  that  his  tomb 
should  be  upon  the  summit  of  this  hill,  in  which  he  should  be 
interred,  seated  on  his  favorite  horse,  that  he  might  over 
look  his  ancient  domain,  and  behold  the  barks  of  the  white 
men  as  they  came  up  the  river  to  trade  with  his  people. 

His  dying  orders  were  faithfully  obeyed.  His  corpse  was 
placed  astride  of  his  war-steed,  and  a  mound  raised  over  them 
on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  On  top  of  the  mound  was  erected  a 
staff,  from  which  fluttered  the  banner  of  the  chieftain,  and  the 
scalps  that  he  had  taken  in  battle.  When  the  expedition 
under  Mr.  Hunt  visited  that  part  of  the  country,  the  staff  still 
remained  with  the  fragments  of  the  banner;  and  the  super 
stitious  rite  of  placing  food  from  time  to  time  on  tho  mound, 


ASTORIA.  131 

for  the  use  of  the  deceased,  was  still  observed  by  the  Omahas. 
That  rite  has  since  fallen  into  disuse,  for  the  tribe  itself  is 
almost  extinct.  Yet  the  hill  of  the  Blackbird  continues  an  ob 
ject  of  veneration  to  the  wandering  savage,  and  a  landmark 
to  the  voyager  of  the  Missouri ;  and  as  the  civilized  traveller 
comes  within  sight  of  its  spell-bound  crest,  the  mound  is 
pointed  out  to  him  from  afar,  which  still  incloses  the  grim 
skeletons  of  the  Indian  warrior  and  his  horse. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

WHILE  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  were  sojourning  at  the 
village  of  the  Omahas,  three  Sioux  Indians  of  the  Yankton 
Ahna  tribe  arrived,  bringing  unpleasant  intelligence.  They 
reported  that  certain  bands  of  the  Sioux  Tetons,  who  inhabited 
a  region  many  leagues  further  up  the  Missouri,  were  near  at 
hand,  awaiting  the  approach  of  the  party,  with  the  avowed 
intent  of  opposing  their  progress. 

The  Sioux  Tetons  were  at  that  time  a  sort  of  pirates  of  the 
Missouri,  who  considered  the  well-freighted  bark  of  the  Ameri 
can  trader  fair  game.  They  had  their  own  traffic  with  the 
British  merchants  of  the  northwest,  who  brought  them  regular 
supplies  of  merchandise  by  way  of  the  river  St.  Peter.  Being 
thus  independent  of  the  Missouri  traders  for  their  supplies, 
they  kept  no  terms  with  them,  but  plundered  them  whenever 
they  had  an  opportunity.  It  has  been  insinuated  that  they 
were  prompted  to  these  outrages  by  the  British  'merchants, 
who  wished  to  keep  off  all  rivals  in  the  Indian  trade;  but 
others  allege  another  motive,  and  one  savoring  of  a  deeper 
policy.  The  Sioux,  by  their  intercourse  with  the  British 
traders,  had  acquired  the  use  of  firearms,  which  had  given 
them  vast  superiority  over  other  tribes  higher  up  the  Missouri. 
They  had  made  themselves  also,  in  a  manner,  factors  for  the 
upper  tribes,  supplying  them  at  second  hand,  and  at  greatly 
advanced  prices,  with  goods  derived  from  the  white  men.  The 
Sioux,  therefore,  saw  with  jealousy  the  American  traders 
pushing  their  way  up  the  Missouri ;  foreseeing  that  the  upper 
tribes  would  thus  be  relieved  from  all  dependence  on  them  for 
supplies ;  nay,  what  was  worse,  would  be  furnished  with  fire 
arms,  and  elevated  into  formidable  rivals. 


132  ASTORIA. 

We  have  already  alluded  to  a  case  in  which  Mr.  Crooks  and 
Mr.  M'Lellan  had  been  interrupted  in  a  trading  voyage  by 
these  ruffians  of  the  river,  and,  as  it  is  in  some  degree  con 
nected  with  circumstances  hereafter  to  be  related,  we  shall 
specify  it  more  particularly. 

About  two  years  before  the  time  of  which  we  are  treating, 
Crooks  and  M'Lellan  were  ascending  the  river  in  boats  with  a 
party  of  about  forty  men,  bound  on  one  of  their  trading  expe 
ditions  to  the  upper  tribes.  In  one  of  the  bends  of  the  river, 
where  the  channel  made  a  deep  curve  under  impending  banks, 
they  suddenly  heard  yells  and  shouts  above  them,  and  beheld 
the  cliffs  overhead  covered  with  armed  savages.  It  was  a 
band  of  Sioux  warriors,  upward  of  six  hundred  strong.  They 
brandished  their  weapons  in  a  menacing  manner,  and  ordered 
the  boats  to  turn  back  and  land  lower  down  the  river.  There 
was  no  disputing  these  commands,  for  they  had  the  power  to 
shower  destruction  upon  the  white  men,  without  risk  to  them 
selves.  Crooks  and  M'Lellan,  therefore,  turned  back  with 
feigned  alacrity;  and,  landing,  had  an  interview  with  the 
Sioux.  The  latter  forbade  them,  under  pain  of  exterminating 
hostility,  from  attempting  to  proceed  up  the  river,  but  offered 
to  trade  peacefully  with  them  if  they  would  halt  where  they 
were.  The  party,  being  principally  composed  of  voyageurs, 
was  too  weak  to  contend  with  so  superior  a  force,  and  one  so 
easily  augmented ;  they  pretended,  therefore,  to  comply  cheer 
fully  with  their  arbitrary  dictation,  and  immediately  proceeded 
to  cut  down  trees  and  erect  a  'trading  house.  The  warrior 
band  departed  for  their  village,  which  was  about  twenty  miles 
distant,  to  collect  objects  of  traffic;  they  left  six  or  eight  of 
their  number,  however,  to  keep  watch  upon  the  white  men, 
and  scouts  were  continually  passing  to  and  fro  with  intelli 
gence. 

Mr.  Crooks  saw  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  prosecute  his 
voyage  without  the  danger  of  having  his  boats  plundered,  and 
a  great  part  of  his  men  massacred;  he  determined,  however, 
not  to  be  entirely  frustrated  in  the  objects  of  his  expedition. 
While  he  continued,  therefore,  with  great  apparent  earnestness 
and  assiduity,  the  construction  of  the  trading  house,  he  dis 
patched  the  hunters  and  trappers  of  his  party  in  a  canoe,  to 
make  their  way  up  the  river  to  the  original  place  of  destina 
tion,  there  to  busy  themselves  in  trapping  and  collecting  pel 
tries,  and  to  await  his  arrival  at  some  future  period. 

As  soon  as  the  detachment  had  had  sufficient  time  to  ascend 


ASTORIA.  133 

beyond  the  hostile  country  of  the  Sioux,  Mr.  Crooks  suddenly 
broke  up  his  feigned  trading  establishment,  embarked  his  men 
and  effects,  and  after  giving  the  astonished  rear-guard  of 
savages  a  galling  and  indignant  message  to  take  to  their 
countrymen,  pushed  down  the  river  with  all  speed,  sparing 
neither  oar  nor  paddle,  day  nor  night,  until  fairly  beyond  the 
swoop  of  these  river  hawks. 

What  increased  the  irritation  of  Messrs.  Crooks  and  M'Lel- 
lan  at  this  mortifying  check  to  their  gainful  enterprise,  was 
the  information  that  a  rival  trader  was  at  the  bottom  of  it ;  the 
Sioux,  it  is  said,  having  been  instigated  to  this  outrage  by  Mr. 
Manuel  Lisa,  the  leading  partner  and  agent  of  the  Missouri 
Fur  Company,  already  mentioned.  This  intelligence,  whether 
true  or  false,  so  roused  the  fiery  temper  of  M'Lellan,  that  he 
swore,  if  ever  he  fell  in  with  Lisa  in  the  Indian  country,  he 
would  shot  him  on  the  spot ;  a  mode  of  redress  perfectly  in 
uniscn  with  the  character  of  the  man,  and  the  code  of  honor 
prevalent  beyond  the  frontier. 

If  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  had  been  exasperated  by  the  insolent 
conduct  of  the  Sioux  Tetons,  and  the  loss  which  it  had  occa 
sioned,  those  freebooters  had  been  no  less  indignant  at  being 
outwitted  by  the  white  men,  and  disappointed  of  their  antici 
pated  gains,  and  it  was  apprehended  they  would  be  particu 
larly  hostile  against  the  present  expedition,  vrlicn  they  should 
learn  that  these  gentlemen  were  engaged  in  it. 

All  these  causes  of  uneasiness  were  concealed  as  much  as 
possible  from  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  lest  they  should  become 
intimidated ;  it  was  impossible,  however,  to  prevent  the  rumors 
brought  by  the  Indians  from  leaking  out,  and  they  became 
subjects  of  gossiping  and  exaggeration.  The  chief  of  the 
Omahas,  tco,  on  returning  from  a  hunting  excursion,  reported 
that  two  men  had  been  killed  some  distance  above  by  a  band 
of  Sioux.  This  added  to  the  fears  that  already  began  to  bo 
excited.  The  voyageurs  pictured  to  themselves  bands  of  fierce 
warriors  stationed  along  each  bank  of  the  river,  by  whom 
they  would  be  exposed  to  be  shot  down  in  their  boats ;  or  lurk 
ing  hordes,  who  would  set  on  them  at  night,  and  massacre 
them  in  their  encampments.  Some  lost  heart,  and  proposed  to 
return,  rather  than  fight  their  way ,  and,  in  a  manner,  run  the 
gauntlet  through  the  country  of  these  piratical  marauders.  In 
fact,  three  men  deserted  while  at  this  village.  Luckily,  their 
place  was  supplied  by  three  others  who  happened  to  be  there, 
and  who  were  prevailed  on  to  join  the  expedition  by  promises 


ASTORIA. 

of  liberal  pay,  and  by  being  fitted  out  r.nd  equipped  in  com 
plete  style. 

The  irresolution  and  discontent  visible  among  some  of  his 
people,  arising  at  times  almost  to  mutiny,  and  the  occasional 
desertions  which  took  place  while  thus  among  friendly  tribes, 
and  within  reach  of  the  frontiers,  added  greatly  to  the 
anxieties  of  Mr.  Hunt,  and  rendered  him  eager  to  press  for 
ward  and  leave  a  hostile  tract  behind  him,  so  that  it  would  be 
as  perilous  to  return  as  to  keep  on,  and  no  one  would  dare  to 
desert. 

Accordingly  on  the  15th  of  May  he  departed  from  the  vil 
lage  of  the  Omahas  and  set  forward  toward  the  country  of 
the  formidable  Sioux  Tetons.  For  the  first  five  days  they  had 
a  fair  and  fresh  breeze,  and  the  boats  made  good  progress. 
The  wind  then  came  ahead,  and  the  river  beginning  to  rise, 
and  to  increase  in  rapidity,  betokened  the  commencement  of 
the  annual  flood,  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  snow  on  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  vernal  rains  of  the  upper  prairies. 

As  they  were  now  entering  a  region  where  foes  might  be 
lying  in  wait  on  either  bank,  it  was  determined,  in  hunting  for 
game,  to  confine  themselves  principally  to  the  islands,  which 
sometimes  extend  to  considerable  length,  and  are  beautifully 
wooded,  affording  abundant  pasturage  and  shade.  On  one  of 
these  they  killed  three  buffaloes  and  two  elks,  and,  halting  on 
the  edge  of  a  beautiful  prairie,  made  a  sumptuous  hunter's  re 
past.  They  had  not  long  resumed  their  boats  and  pulled  along 
the  river  banks,  when  they  descried  a  canoe  approaching, 
navigated  by  two  men,  whom,  to  their  surprise,  they  ascer 
tained  to  be  white  men.  They  proved  to  be  two  of  those 
strange  and  fearless  wanderers  of  the  wilderness,  the  trappers. 
Their  names  were  Benjamin  Jones  and  Alexander  Carson. 
They  had  been  for  two  years  past  hunting  and  trapping  near 
the  head  of  the  Missouri,  and  were  thus  floating  for  thousands 
of  miles  in  a  cockle-shell  down  a  turbulent  stream,  through  re 
gions  infested  by  savage  tribes,  yet  apparently  as  easy  and  un 
concerned  as  if  navigating  securely  in  the  midst  of  civilization. 

The  acquisition  of  two  such  hardy,  experienced,  and  daunt 
less  hunters  was  peculiarly  desirable  at  the  present  moment. 
They  needed  but  little  persuasion.  The  wilderness  is  the  home 
of  the  trapper ;  like  the  sailor,  he  cares  but  little  to  which  point 
of  the  compass  he  steers;  and  Jones  and  Carson  readily  aban 
doned  their  voyage  to  St.  Louis  and  turned  their  faces  toward 
the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Pacific. 


AST01UA.  1 35 

The  two  naturalists,  Mr.  Bradbury  and  Mr.  Nuttall,  who  had 
joined  the  expedition  at  St.  Louis  still  accompanied  it,  and  pur 
sued  their  researches  on  all  occasions.  Mr.  Nuttall  seems  to 
have  been  exclusively  devoted  to  his  scientific  pursuits.  Ho 
was  a  zealous  botanist,  and  all  his  enthusiasm  was  awakened 
at  beholding  a  new  world,  as  it  were,  opening  upon  him  in  the 
boundless  prairies,  clad  in  the  vernal  and  variegated  robe  of 
unknown  flowers.  Whenever  the  boats  landed  at  meal  times, 
or  for  any  temporary  purpose,  he  would  spring  on  shore, 
and  set  out  on  a  hunt  for  new  specimens.  Every  plant  or 
flower  of  a  rare  or  unknown  species  was  eagerly  seized  as  a 
prize.  Delighted  with  the  treasures  spreading  themselves  out 
before  him,  he  went  groping  and  stumbling  along  among  a 
wilderness  of  sweets,  forgetful  of  everything  but  his  immediate 
pursuit,  and  had  often  to  be  sought  after  when  the  boats  were 
about  to  resume  their  course.  At  such  times  he  would  be 
found  far  off  in  the  prairies,  or  up  the  course  of  some  petty 
stream,  laden  with  plants  of  all  kinds. 

The  Canadian  voyageurs  who  are  a  class  of  people  that  know 
nothing  out  of  their  immediate  line,  and  with  constitutional 
levity  make  a  jest  of  anything  they  cannot  understand,  were 
extremely  puzzled  by  this  passion  for  collecting  what  they 
considered  mere  useless  weeds.  When  they  saw  the  worthy 
botanist  coming  back  heavy  laden  with  his  specimens,  and 
treasuring  them  up  as  carefully  as  a  miser  would  his  hoard, 
they  used  to  make  merry  among  themselves  at  his  expense, 
regarding  him  as  some  whimsical  kind  of  madman. 

Mr.  Bradbury  was  less  exclusive  in  his  tastes  and  habits,  and 
combined  the  hunter  and  sportsman  with  the  naturalist.  He 
took  his  rifle  or  his  fowling-piece  with  him  in  his  geological  re 
searches,  conformed  to  the  hardy  and  rugged  habits  of  the  men 
around  him,  and  of  course  gained  favor  in  their  eyes.  He  had 
a  strong  relish  for  incident  and  adventure,  was  curious  in  ob 
serving  savage  manners  and  savage  life,  and  ready  to  join  any 
hunting  or  other  excursion.  Even  now,  that  the  expedition 
was  proceeding  through  a  dangerous  neighborhood,  he  could 
not  check  his  propensity  to  ramble.  Having  observed,  on  the 
evening  of  the  22d  of  May,  that  the  river  ahead  made  a  great 
bend  which  would  take  up  the  navigation  of  the  following  day, 
he  determined  to  profit  by  the  circumstance.  On  the  morning 
of  the  23d,  therefore,  instead  of  embarking,  he  filled  his  shot- 
pouch  with  parched  corn,  for  provisions,  and  set  off  to  cross 
the  neck  on  foot  and  meet  the  boats  in  the  afternoon  at  the 


136  ASTORIA. 

opposite  side  of  the  bend.  Mr.  Hunt  felt  uneasy  at  his  ventur 
ing  thus  alone,  and  reminded  him  that  he  was  in  an  enemy's 
country;  but  Mr.  Bradbury  made  light  of  the  danger,  and 
started  off  cheerily  upon  his  ramble.  His  day  was  passed 
pleasantly  in  traversing  a  beautiful  tract,  making  botanical 
and  geological  researches,  and  observing  the  habits  of  an  exten 
sive  village  of  prairie  dogs,  at  which  he  made  several  ineffectual 
shots,  without  considering  the  risk  he  run  of  attracting  the 
attention  of  any  savages  that  might  be  lurking  in  the  neighbor 
hood.  In  fact  he  had  totally  forgotten  the  Sioux  Tetons,  and 
all  the  other  perils  of  the  country,  when,  about  the  middle  of 
the  afternoon,  as  he  stood  near  the  river  bank,  and  was  looking 
out  for  the  boat,  he  suddenly  felt  a  hand  laid  011  his  shoulder. 
Starting  and  turning  round,  he  beheld  a  naked  savage  with  a 
bow  bent,  and  the  arrow  pointed  at  his  breast.  In  an  instant 
his  gun  was  levelled  and  his  hand  upon  the  lock.  The  Indian 
drew  his  bow  still  further,  but  forbore  to  launch  the  shaft.  Mr. 
Bradbury,  with  admirable  presence  of  mind,  reflected  that  the 
savage,  if  hostile  in  his  intents,  would  have  shot  him  without 
giving  him  a  chance  of  defence ;  he  paused,  therefore,  and  held 
out  his  hand.  The  other  took  it  in  sign  of  friendship,  and  de 
manded  in  the  Osage  language  whether  he  was  a  Big  Knife,  or 
American.  He  answered  in  the  affirmative,  and  inquired 
whether  the  other  were  a  Sioux.  To  his  great  relief  he  found 
that  he  was  a  Ponca.  By  this  time  two  other  Indians  came 
running  up,  and  all  three  laid  hold  of  Mr.  Bradbury  and 
seemed  disposed  to  compel  him  to  go  off  with  them  among  the 
hills.  He  resisted,  and  sitting  down  on  a  sand-hill,  contrived 
to  amuse  them  with  a  pocket"  compass.  When  the  novelty  of 
this  was  exhausted,  they  again  seized  him,  but  he  now  pro 
duced  a  small  microscope.  This  new  wonder  again  fixed  the 
attention  of  the  savages,  who  have  far  more  curiosity  than  it 
has  been  the  custom  to  allow  them.  While  thus  engaged  one 
of  them  suddenly  leaped  up  and  ga  r,'G  a  warwhoop.  The  hand  of 
the  hardy  naturalist  was  again  on  his  gun,  and  he  was  pre 
pared  to  make  battle,  when  the  Indian  pointed  down  the  river 
and  revealed  the  true  cause  of  his  yell.  It  was  the  mast  of  one 
of  the  boats  appearing  above  the  low  willows  which  bordered 
the  stream.  Mr.  Bradbury  felt  infinitely  relieved  by  the  sight. 
The  Indians  on  their  part  now  showed  signs  of  apprehension, 
and  were  disposed  to  run  away ;  but  he  assured  them  of  good 
treatment  and  something  to  drink  if  they  would  accompany 


ASTORIA.  137 

him  on  board  of  the  boats.     They  lingered  for  a  time,  but  dis 
appeared  before  the  boats  came  to  land. 

On  the  following  morning  they  appeared  at  the  camp  accom 
panied  by  several  of  their  tribe.  With  them  came  also  a  white 
man,  who  announced  himself  as  a  messenger  bearing  missives 
for  Mr.  Hunt.  In  fact  he  Brought  a  letter  from  Mr.  Manuel 
Lisa,  partner  and  agent  of  the  Missouri  Fur  Company.  As 
has  already  been  mentioned,  this  gentleman  was  going  in 
search  of  Mr.  Henry  and  his  party,  who  had  been  dislodged 
from  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  by  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  and 
had  shifted  his  post  somewhere  beyond  the  Eocky  Mountains. 
Mr.  Lisa  had  left  St.  Louis  three  weeks  after  Mr.  Hunt,  and 
having  heard  of  the  hostile  intentions  of  the  Sioux,  had  made 
.the  greatest  exertions  to  overtake  him,  that  they  might  pass 
through  the  dangerous  part  of  the  river  together.  He  had 
twenty  stout  oarsman  in  his  service,  and  they  plied  their  oars 
so  vigorously  that  he  had  reached  the  Omaha  village  just  four 
days  after  the  departure  of  Mr.  Hunt.  From  this  place  he  dis 
patched  the  messenger  in  question,  trusting  to  his  overtaking 
the  barges  as  they  toiled  up  against  the  stream,  and  were  de 
layed  by  the  windings  of  the  river.  The  purport  of  his  letter 
was  to  entreat  Mr.  Hunt  to  wait  until  he  could  come  up  with 
him,  that  they  might  unite  their  forces  and  be  a  protection  to 
each  other  in  their  perilous  course  through  the  country  of  the 
Sioux.  In  fact,  as  it  was  afterward  ascertained,  Lisa  was 
apprehensive  that  Mr.  Hunt  would  do  him  some  ill  office  with 
the  Sioux  bands,  securing  his  own  passage  through  their  coun 
try  by  pretending  that  he  with  whom  they  were  accustomed  to 
trade  was  on  his  way  to  them  with  a  plentiful  supply  of  goods, 
lie  feared,  too,  that  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  would  take  this  op 
portunity  to  retort  upon  him  the  perfidy  which  they  accused 
him  of  having  used,  two  years  previously,  among  these  very 
Sioux.  In  this  respect,  however,  he  did  them  signal  injustice. 
There  was  no  such  thing  as  covert  design  or  treachery  in  their 
thought ;  but  M'Lellan,  when  he  heard  that  Lisa  was  on  his 
way  up  the  river,  renewed  his  open  threat  of  shooting  him  the 
moment  he  met  him  on  Indian  land. 

The  representations  made  by  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  of  the 
treachery  they  had  experienced,  or  fancied,  on  the  part  of 
Lisa,  had  great  weight  with  Mr.  Hunt,  especially  when  he 
recollected  the  obstacles  that  had  been  thrown  in  his  own 
way  by  that  gentleman  at  St.  Louis.  He  doubted,  therefore, 
the  fair  dealing  of  Lisa,  and  feared  that,  should  they  enter  "the 


138  ASTORIA. 

Sioux  country  together,  the  latter  might  make  use  of  his  in 
fluence  with  that  tribe,  as  he  had  in  the  case  of  Crooks  and 
M'Lellan,  and  instigate  them  to  oppose  his  progress  up  the 
river. 

He  sent  back,  therefore,  an  answer  calculated  to  beguile 
Lisa,  assuring  him  that  he  would  wait  for  him  at  the  Poncas 
village,  which  was  but  a  little  distance  in  advance;  but  no 
sooner  had  the  messenger  departed,  than  he  pushed  forward 
with  all  diligence,  barely  stopping  at  the  village  to  procure  a 
supply  of  dried  buffalo  meat,  and  hastening  to  leave  the  other 
party  as  far  behind  as  possible,  thinking  there  was  less  to  be 
apprehended  from  the  open  hostility  of  Indian  foes  than  from 
the  quiet  strategy  of  an  Indian  trader. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

IT  was  about  noon  when  the  party  left  the  Poncas  village, 
about  a  league  beyond  which  they  passed  the  mouth  of  the 
Quicourt,  or  Eapid  River  (called,  in  the  original  French,  V  Eau 
Qui  Court).  After  having  proceeded  some  distance  further, 
they  landed,  and  encamped  for  the  night.  In  the  evening 
camp  the  voyageurs  gossiped,  as  usual,  over  the  events  of  the 
day,  and  especially  over  intelligence  picked  up  among  the  Pon 
cas.  These  Indians  had  confirmed  the  previous  reports  of  the 
hostile  intentions  of  the  Sioux,  and  had  assured  them  that  five 
tribes,  or  bands,  of  that  fierce  nation  were  actually  assembled 
higher  up  the  river,  and  waiting  to  cut  them  off.  This  even 
ing  gossip,  and  the  terrific  stories  of  Indian  warfare  to  which 
it  gave  rise,  produced  a  strong  effect  upon  the  imaginations  of 
the  irresolute,  and  in  the  morning  it  was  discovered  that  the 
two  men  who  had  joined  the  party  at  the  Omaha  village,  and 
been  so  bounteously  fitted  out,  had  deserted  in  the  course  of 
the  night,  carrying  with  them  all  their  equipments.  As  it  was 
known  that  one  of  them  could  not  swim,  it  was  hoped  that  the 
banks  of  the  Quicourt  River  would  bring  them  to  a  halt.  A 
general  pursuit  was  therefore  instituted,  but  without  success. 

On  the  following  morning  (May  26th),  as  they  were  all  on 
shore,  breakfasting  on  one  of  the  beautiful  banks  of  the  river, 
they  observed  two  canoes  descending  along  the  opposite  side. 
By  the  aid  of  spy-glasses  they  observed  that  there  were  two 


ASTORIA.  139 

white  men  in  one  of  the  canoes,  and  one  in  the  other.  A  gun 
was  discharged,  which  called  the  attention  of  the  voyagers, 
who  crossed  over.  They  proved  to  be  three  Kentucky  hunters, 
of  the  true  "dreadnought "  stamp.  Their  names  were  Edward 
Robinson,  John  Hoback,  and  Jacob  Biziier.  Robinson  was  a 
veteran  backwoodsman,  sixty-six  years  of  age.  He  had  been 
one  of  the  first  settlers  of  Kentucky,  and  engaged  in  many  of 
the  conflicts  of  the  Indians  on  "The  Bloody  Ground.5'  In  one 
of  these  battles  he  had  been  scalped,  and  he  still  wore  a  hand 
kerchief  bound  round  his  head  to  protect  the  part.  These  men 
had  passed  several  years  in  the  upper  wilderness.  They  had 
been  in  the  service  of  the  Missouri  Company  under  Mr.  Henry, 
and  had  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains  with  him  in  the  preced 
ing  year,  when  driven  from  his  post  on  the  Missouri  by  the 
hostilities  of  the  Blackfeet.  After  crossing  the  mountains,  Mr. 
Henry  had  established  himself  on  one  of  the  head  branches  of 
the  Columbia  River.  There  they  had  remained  with  him  for 
some  months,  hunting  and  trapping,  until,  having  satisfied 
their  wandering  propensities,  they  felt  disposed  to  return  to 
the  families  and  comfortable  homes  which  they  had  left  in 
Kentucky.  They  had  accordingly  made  their  way  back  across 
the  mountains  and  down  the  rivers,  and  were  in  full  career  for 
St.  Louis,  when  thus  suddenly  interrupted.  The  sight  of  a 
powerful  party  of  traders,  trappers,  hunters,  and  voyageurs, 
well  armed  and  equipped,  furnished  at  all  points,  in  high 
health  and  spirits,  and  banqueting  lustily  on  the  green  margin 
of  the  river,  was  a  spectacle  equally  stimulating  to  these  vet 
eran  backwoodsmen  with  the  glorious  array  of  a  campaigning 
army  to  an  old  soldier;  but  when  they  learned  the  grand  scope 
and  extent  of  the  enterprise  in  hand,  it  was  irresistible :  homes 
and  families  and  all  the  charms  of  green  Kentucky  vanished 
from  their  thoughts ;  they  cast  loose  their  canoes  to  drift  down 
the  stream,  and  joyfully  enlisted  in  the  band  of  adventurers. 
They  engaged  on  similar  terms  with  some  of  the  other  hunt 
ers.  The  company  was  to  fit  them  out,  and  keep  them  sup 
plied  with  the  requisite  equipments  and  munitions,  and  they 
were  to  yield  one  half  of  the  produce  of  their  hunting  and 
trapping. 

The  addition  of  three  such  staunch  recruits  was  extremely 
acceptable  at  this  dangerous  part  of  the  river.  The  knowledge 
of  the  country  which  they  had  acquired,  also,  in  their  journeys 
and  hunting  excursions  along  the  rivers  and  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  was  all  important ;  in  fact,  the  information  derived 


140  A  STOW  A. 

from  thorn  induced  Mr.  Hunt  to  alter  his  future  course.  He 
had  hitherto  intended  to  proceed  by  the  route  taken  by  Lewis 
and  Clnrk  in  their  famous  exploring  expedition,  ascending  the 
Missouri  io  its  forks,  and  thence  going,  by  land,  across  the 
mountains.  These  men  informed  him,  however,  that  on  taking 
that  course  he  would  have  to  pass  through  the  country  infested 
by  the  savage  tribe  of  the  Blackfeet,  and  would  be  exposed  to 
their  hostilities;  they  being,  as  has  already  been  observed,  ex 
asperated  to  deadly  animosity  against  the  whites,  on  account  of 
the  death  of  one  of  their  tribe  by  the  hands  of  Captain  Lewis. 
They  advised  him  rather  to  pursue  a  route  more  to  the  south 
ward,  being  the  same  by  which  they  had  returned.  This  would 
carry  them  over  the  mountains  about  where  the  head-waters 
of  the  Platte  and  the  Yellowstone  take  their  rise,  at  a  place 
much  more  easy  and  practicable  than  that  where  Lewis  and 
Clark  had  crossed.  In  pursuing  this  course,  also,  he  would 
pass  through  a  country  abounding  with  game,  where  he  would 
have  a  better  chance  of  procuring  a  constant  supply  of  provi 
sions  than  by  the  other  route,  and  would  run  less  risk  of  moles 
tation  from  the  Blackfeet.  Should  he  adopt  this  advice,  it 
would  be  better  for  him  to  abandon  the  river  at  the  Aricara 
town,  at  which  he  would  arrive  in  the  course  of  a  few  days. 
As  the  Indians  at  that  town  possessed  horses  in  abundance,  he 
might  purchase  a  sufficient  number  of  them  for  his  great 
journey  overland,  which  would  commence  at  that  place. 

After  reflecting  on  this  advice,  and  consulting  with  his 
associates,  Mr.  Hunt  came  to  the  determination  to  follow  the 
route -thus  pointed  out,  in  which  the  hunters  engaged  to  pilot 
him. 

The  party  continued  their  voyage  with  delightful  May 
weather.  The  prairies  bordering  on  the  river  were  gayly 
painted  with  innumerable  flowers,  exhibiting  the  motley  con 
fusion  of  colors  of  a  Turkey  carpet.  The  beautiful  islands 
also,  on  which  they  occasionally  halted,  presented  the  appear 
ance  of  mingled  grove  and  garden.  The  trees  were  often 
covered  with  clambering  grape-vines  in  blossom,  which  per 
fumed  the  air.  Between  the  stately  masses  of  the  groves  were 
grassy  lawns  and  glades,  studded  with  flowers,  or  interspersed 
with  rose-bushes  in  full  bloom.  These  islands  were  often  the 
resort  of  the  buffalo,  the  elk,  and  the  antelope,  who  had  made 
innumerable  paths  among  the  trees  and  thickets,  which  had 
the  effect  of  the  mazy  walks  and  alleys  of  parks  and  shrub 
beries.  Sometimes,  whore  the  river  passed  between  high 


ASTORIA.  141 

banks  and  bluffs,  the  roads,  made  by  the  tramp  of  buffaloes 
for  many  ages  along  the  face  of  the  heights,  looked  like  so 
many  well-travelled  highways.  At  other  places  the  banks 
were  banded  with  great  veins  of  iron  ore.  laid  bare  by  the 
abrasion  of  the  river.  At  one  place  the  course  of  the  river 
was  nearly  in  a  straight  line  for  about  fifteen  miles.  The 
banks  sloped  gently  to  its  margin,  without  a  single  tree,  but 
bordered  with  grass  and  herbage  of  a  vivid  green.  Along 
each  bank,  for  the  whole  fifteen  miles,  extended  a  stripe,  one 
hundred  yards  in  breadth,  of  a  deep  rusty  brown,  indicating 
an  inexhaustible  bed  of  iron,  through  the  centre  of  which  the 
Missouri  had  worn  its  way.  Indications  of  the  continuance  of 
this  bed  were  afterward  observed  higher  up  the  river.  It  is, 
in  fact,  one  of  the  mineral  magazines  which  nature  has  pro 
vided  in  the  heart  of  this  vast  realm  of  fertility,  and  which,  in 
connection  with  the  immense  beds  of  coal  on  the  same  river, 
seem  garnered  up  as  the  elements  of  the  future  wealth  and 
power  of* the  mighty  West. 

The  sight  of  these  mineral  treasures  greatly  excited  the 
curiosity  of  Mr.  Bradbury,  and  it  was  tantalizing  to  him  to  be 
checked  in  his  scientific  researches,  and  obliged  to  forego  his 
usual  rambles  on  shore ;  but  they  were  now  entering  the  fated 
country  of  the  Sioux  Tetons,  in  which  it  was  dangerous  to 
wander  about  unguarded. 

This  country  extends  for  some  days'  journey  along  the  river, 
and  consists  of  vast  prairies,  here  and.  there  diversified  by 
swelling  hills,  and  cut  up  by  ravines,  the  channels  of  turbid 
streams  in  the  rainy  seasons,  but  almost  destitute  of  water 
during  the  heats  of  summer.'  Here  and  there,  on  the  sides  of 
the  hills,  or  along  the  alluvial  borders  and  bottoms  of  the 
ravines,  are  groves  and  skirts  of  forest ;  but  for  the  most  part 
the  country  presented  to  the  eye  a  boundless  waste,  covered 
with  herbage,  but  without  trees. 

The  soil  of  this  immense  region  is  strongly  impregnated  with 
sulphur,  copperas,  alum,  and  glauber  salts;  its  various  earths 
impart  a  deep  tinge  to  the  streams  which  drain  it,  and  these, 
with  the  crumbling  of  the  banks  along  the  Missouri,  give  to 
the  waters  of  that  river  much  of  the  coloring  matter  with 
which  they  are  clouded. 

Over  this  vast  tract  the  roving  bands  of  the  Sioux  Tetons 
hold  their  vagrant  sway,  subsisting  by  the  chase  of  the  buffalo, 
the  elk,  the  deer,  and  the  antelope,  and  waging  ruthless  war 
fare  with  other  wandering  tribes. 


142  ASTORIA. 

As  the  boats  made  their  way  up  the  stream  bordered  by  this 
land  of  danger,  many  of  ihe  Canadian  voyageurs,  whose  fears 
had  been  awakened,  would  regard  with  a  distrustful  eye  the 
boundless  waste  extending  011  each  side.  All,  however,  was 
silent,  and  apparently  untenanted  by  a  human  being.  Now 
and  then  a  herd  of  deer  would  be  seen  feeding  tranquilly 
among  the  flowery  herbage,  or  a  line  of  buffaloes,  like  a  cara  • 
van  on  its  march,  moving  across  the  distant  profile  of  the 
prairie.  The  Canadians,  however,  began  to  apprehend  an 
ambush  in  every  thicket,  and  to  regard  the  broad,  tranquil 
plain  as  a  sailor  eyes  some  shallow  and  perfidious  sea,  which, 
though  smooth  and  safe  to  the  eye,  conceals  the  lurking  rock 
or  treacherous  shoal.  The  very  name  of  a  Sioux  became  a 
watchword  of  terror.  Not  an  elk,  a  wolf,  or  any  other  animal, 
could  appear  on  the  hills,  but  the  boats  resounded  with  ex 
clamations  from  stern  to  stern,  ' '  Voila  les  Sioux  /"  "  Voila  les 
Sioux!"  (there  are  the  Sioux!  there  are  the  Sioux!).  When 
ever  it  was  practicable,  the  night  encampment  was  on  some 
island  in  the  centre  of  the  stream. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st  of  May,  as  the  travellers  were 
breakfasting  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  the  usual  alarm 
was  given,  but  with  more  reason,  as  two  Indians  actually 
made  their  appearance  on  a  bluff  on  the  opposite  or  northeast 
side,  and  harangued  them  in  a  loud  voice.  As  it  was  im 
possible  at  that  distance  to  distinguish  what  they  said,  Mr. 
Hunt,  after  breakfast,  crossed  the  river  with  Pierre  Dorion, 
the  interpreter,  and  advanced  boldly  to  converse  with  them, 
while  the  rest  remained  watching,  in  mute  suspense,  the  move 
ments  of  the  parties.  As  soon  as  Mr.  Hunt  landed,  one  of  the 
Indians  disappeared  behind  the  hill,  but  shortly  reappeared  on 
horseback,  and  went  scouring  off  across  the  heights.  Mr. 
Hunt  held  some  conference  with  the  remaining  savage,  and 
then  recrossed  the  river  to  his  party. 

These  two  Indians  proved  to  be  spies  or  scouts  of  a  large  war 
party  encamped  about  a  league  off,  and  numbering  two  hun 
dred  and  eighty  lodges,  or  about  six  hundred  warriors,  of  three 
different  tribes  of  Sioux ;  the  Yangtons  Ahna,  the  Tetons  Bois- 
brule,  and  the  Tetons  Min-na-kine-azzo.  They  expected  daily 
to  be  reinforced  by  two  other  tribes,  and  had  been  waiting 
eleven  days  for  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt's  party,  with  a  deter 
mination  to  oppose  their  progress  up  the  river;  being  resolved 
to  prevent  all  trade  of  the  white  men  with  their  enemies  the 
Arickaras,  Mandans,  and  Minatarees.  The  Indian  who  had 


ASTORIA.  143 

galloped  off  on  horseback  had  gone  to  give  notice  of  the  ap 
proach  of  the  party,  so  that  they  might  now  look  out  for  some 
fierce  scenes  with  those  piratical  savages,  of  whom  they  had 
received  so  many  formidable  accounts. 

The  party  braced  up  their  spirits  to  the  encounter,  and  re- 
embarking,  pulled  resolutely  up  the  stream.  An  island  for 
some  time  intervened  between  them  and  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river;  but  on  clearing  the  upper  end,  they  came  in  full 
view  of  the  hostile  shore.  There  was  a  ridge  .of  hills,  down 
which  the  savages  were  pouring  in  great  numbers,  some  on 
horseback,  and  some  on  foot.  Reconnoitering  them  with  the 
aid  of  glasses,  they  perceived  that  they  were  all  in  warlike 
array,  painted  and  decorated  for  battle.  Their  weapons  were 
bows  and  arrows,  and  a  few  short  carbines,  and  most  of  them 
had  round  shields.  Altogether  they  had  a  wild  and  gallant 
appearance,  and,  taking  possession  of  a  point  which  com 
manded  the  river,  ranged  themselves  along  the  bank  as  if 
prepared  to  dispute  their  passage. 

At  sight  of  this  formidable  front  of  war,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his 
companions  held  counsel  together.  It  was  plain  that  the 
rumors  they  had  heard  were  correct,  and  the  Sioux  were  de 
termined  to  oppose  their  progress  by  force  of  arms.  To  at 
tempt  to  elude  them  and  continue  along  the  river  was  out  of 
the  question.  The  strength  of  the  mid-current  was  too  violent 
to  be  withstood,  and  the  boats  were  obliged  to  ascend  along 
the  river  banks.  These  banks  were  often  high  and  perpen 
dicular,  affording  the  savages  frequent  stations,  from  whence, 
sare  themselves,  and  almost  unseen,  they  might  shower  down 
their  missiles  upon  the  boats  below,  and  retreat  at  will,  without 
danger  from  pursuit.  Nothing  apparently  remained,  there 
fore,  but  to  fight  or  turn  back.  The  Sioux  far  outnumbered 
them,  it  is  true,  but  their  own  party  was  about  sixty  strong, 
well  armed  and  supplied  with  ammunition ;  and  besides  their 
guns  and  rifles,  they  had  a  swivel  and  two  howitzers  mounted 
in  the  boats.  Should  they  succeed  in  breaking  this  Indian 
force  by  one  vigorous  assault,  it  was  likely  they  would  be  de  • 
terred  from  making  any  future  attack  of  consequence.  The 
fighting  alternative  Avas,  therefore,  instantly  adopted,  and  the 
boats  pulled  to  shore  nearly  opposite  to  the  hostile  force.  Here 
the  arms  were  all  examined  and  pat  in  order.  The  swivel  and 
howitzers  were  then  loaded  with  powder  and  discharged,  to  let 
the  savages  know  by  the  report  how  formidably  they  were 
provided.  The  noise  echoed  along  the  shores  of  the  river,  and 


144  ASTORIA. 

must  have  startled  the  warriors,  who  were  only  accustomed  to 
sharp  reports  of  rifles.  The  same  pieces  were  then  loaded  with 
as  many  bullets  as  they  would  probably  bear ;  after  which  the 
whole  party  embarked  and  pulled  across  the  river.  The  In 
dians  remained  watching  them  in  silence,  their  painted  forms 
and  visages  glaring  in  the  sun,  and  their  feathers  fluttering 
in  the  breeze.  The  poor  Canadians  eyed  them  with  rueful 
glances,  and  now  and  then  a  fearful  ejaculation  would  escape 
them.  "Parbleu!  this  is  a  sad  scrape  we  are  in,  brother!" 
would  one  mutter  to  the  next  oarsman.  "Ay,  ay!"  the  other 
would  reply,  "  we  are  not  going  to  a  wedding,  my  friend !" 

When  the  boats  arrived  within  rifle  shot,  the  hunters  and 
other  fighting  personages  on  board  seized  their  weapons,  and 
prepared  for  action.  As  they  rose  to  fire,  a  confusion  took 
place  among  the  savages.  They  displayed  their  buffalo  robes, 
raised  them  with  both  hands  above  their  heads,  and  then 
spread  them  before  them  on  the  ground.  At  sight  of  this 
Pierre  Dorion  eagerly  cried  out  to  the  party  not  to  fire,  as 
this  movement  was  a  peaceful  signal,  and  an  invitation  to  a 
parley.  Immediately  about  a  dozen  of  the  principal  warriors, 
separating  from  the  rest,  descended  to  the  edge  of  the  river, 
lighted  a  fire,  seated  themselves  in  a  semicircle  round  it,  and, 
displaying  the  calumet,  invited  the  party  to  land.  Mr.  Hunt 
now  called  a  council  of  the  partners  on  board  of  his  boat.  The 
question  was,  whether  to  trust  to  the  amicable  overtures  of 
these  ferocious  people?  It  was  determined  in  the  affirmative, 
for,  otherwise,  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  fight  them.  The 
main  body  of  the  party  were  ordered  to  remain  on  board  of 
the  boats,  keeping  within  shot,  and  prepared  to  fire  in  case  of 
any  signs  of  treachery ;  while  Mr.  Hunt  and  the  other  partners 
(M'Kenzie,  Crooks,  Miller,  and  M'Lellan),  proceeded  to  land, 
accompanied  by  the  interpreter  and  Mr.  Bradbury.  The  chiefs 
who  awaited  them  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  remained  seated 
in  their  semicircle  without  stirring  a  limb  or  moving  a  muscle, 
motionless  as  so  many  statues.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions 
advanced  without  hesitation,  and  took  their  seats  on  the  sand 
so  as  to  complete  the  circle.  The  band  of  warriors  who  lined 
the  banks  above  stood  looking  down  in  silent  groups  and  clus 
ters,  some  ostentatiously  equipped  and  decorated,  others  en 
tirely  naked,  but  fantastically  painted,  and  all  variously 
armed. 

The  pipe  of  peace  was  now  brought  forward  with  due  cere 
mony.  The  bowl  was  of  a  spacies  of  red  stone  resembling 


ASTORIA.  145 

porphyry;  the  stem  was  six  feet  in  length,  decorated  with 
tufts  of  horse  hair  dyed  red.  The  pipebearer  stepped  within 
the  circle,  lighted  the  pipe,  held  it  toward  the  sun,  then  to 
ward  the  different  points  of  the  compass,  after  which  he 
handed  it  to  the  principal  chief.  The  latter  smoked  a  few 
whiffs,  then,  holding  the  head  of  the  pipe  in  his  hand,  offered 
the  other  end  to  Mr.  Hunt,  and  to  each  one  successively  in  the 
circle.  When  all  had  smoked,  it  was  considered  that  an  as 
surance  of  good  faith  and  amity  had  been  interchanged.  Mr. 
Hunt  now  made  a  speech  in  French,  which  was  interpreted  as 
he  proceeded  by  Pierre  Dorion.  He  informed  the  Sioux  of  the 
real  object  of  the  expedition,  of  himself  and  his  companions, 
which  was,  not  to  trade  with  any  of  the  tribes  up  the  river, 
but  to  cross  the  mountains  to  the  great  salt  lake  in  the  west,  in 
search  of  some  of  their  brothers,  whom  they  had  not  seen  for 
eleven  months.  That  he  had  heard  of  the  intention  of  the 
Sioux  to  oppose  his  passage,  and  was  prepared,  as  they  might 
see,  to  effect  it  at  all  hazards;  nevertheless  his  feelings  toward 
the  Sioux  were  friendly,  in  proof  of  which  he  had  brought 
them  a  present  of  tobacco  and  corn.  So  saying,  he  ordered 
about  fifteen  carottes  of  tobacco,  and  as  many  bags  of  corn,  to 
be  brought  from  the  boat  and  laid  in  a  heap  near  the  coun 
cil  lire. 

The  sight  of  these  presents  mollified  the  chieftain,  who  had 
doubtless  been  previously  rendered  considerate  by  the  reso 
lute  conduct  of  the  white  men,  the  judicious  disposition  of 
their  little  armament,  the  completeness  of  their  equipments, 
and  the  compact  array  of  battle  which  they  presented.  He 
made  a  speech  in  reply,  in  which  he  stated  the  object  of  their 
hostile  assemblage,  which  had  been  merely  to  prevent  supplies 
of  arms  and  ammunition  from  going  to  the  Arickaras,  Man- 
dans,  and  Minatarees,  with  whom  they  were  at  war;  but  being 
now  convinced  that  the  party  were  carrying  no  supplies  of  the 
kind,  but  merely  proceeding  in  quest  of  their  brothers  beyond 
the  mountains,  they  would  not  impede  them  in  their  voyage. 
He  concluded  by  thanking  them  for  their  present,  and  advis 
ing  them  to  encamp  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  as  he  had 
some  young  men  among  his  warriors  for  whose  discretion  he 
could  not  be  answerable,  and  who  might  be  troublesome. 

Here  ended  the  conference:  they  all  arose,  shook  hands,  and 
parted.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  re-embarked,  and  the 
boats  proceeded  on  their  course  unmolested. 


146  ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

ON  the  afternoon  of  the  following  day  (June  1st)  they  arrived 
at  the  great  bend,  where  the  river  winds  for  about  thirty  miles 
round  a  circular  peninsula,  the  neck  of  which  is  not  above  two 
thousand  yards  across.  On  the  succeeding  morning,  at  an 
early  hour,  they  descried  two  Indians  standing  on  a  high  bank 
of  the  river,  waving  and  spreading  their  buffalo  robes  in  signs 
of  amity.  They  immediately  pulled  to  shore  and  landed.  On 
approaching  the  savages,  however,  the  latter  showed  evident 
symptoms  of  alarm,  spreading  out  their  arms  horizontally,  ac 
cording  to  their  mode  of  supplicating  clemency.  The  reason 
was  soon  explained.  They  proved  to  be  two  chiefs  of  the  very 
war  party  that  had  brought  Messrs.  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  to  a 
stand  two  years  before,  and  obliged  them  to  escape  down  the 
river.  They  ran  to  embrace  these  gentlemen,  as  if  delighted 
to  meet  with  them ;  yet  they  evidently  feared  some  retaliation 
of  their  past  misconduct,  nor  were  they  quite  at  ease  until  the 
pipe  of  peace  had  been  smoked. 

Mr.  Hunt  having  been  informed  that  the  tribe  to  which  these 
men  belonged  had  killed  three  white  men  during  the  preceding 
summer  reproached  them  with  the  crime,  and  demanded  their 
reasons  for  such  savage  hostility.  "We  kill  white  men, "  re 
plied  one  the  chiefs,  "  because  white  men  kill  us.  That  very 
man,"  added  he,  pointing  to  Carson,  one  of  the  new  recruits, 
"killed  one  of  our  brothers  last  summer.  The  three  white 
men  were  slain  to  avenge  his  death." 

The  chief  was  correct  in  his  reply.  Carson  admitted  that, 
being  with  a  party  of  Arickaras  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri, 
and  seeing  a  war  party  of  Sioux  on  the  opposite  side,  he  had 
fired  with  his  rifle  across.  It  was  a  random  shot,  made  with 
out  much  expectation  of  effect,  for  the  river  was  full  half  a 
mile  in  breadth.  Unluckily  it  brought  down  a  Sioux  warrior, 
for  whose  wanton  destruction  threefold  vengeance  had  been 
taken,  as  has  been  stated.  In  this  way  outrages  are  frequently 
committed  on  the  natives  by  thoughtless  or  mischievous  white 
men ;  the  Indians  retaliate  according  to  a  law  of  their  code, 
which  requires  blood  for  blood;  their  act,  of  what  with  them 
is  pious  vengeance,  resounds  throughout  the  land,  and  is  rcpre- 


ASTORIA.  147 

sented  as  wanton  and 'unprovoked;  the  neighborhood  is  roused 
to  arms ;  a  war  ensues,  which  ends  in  the  destruction  of  half 
the  tribe,  the  ruin  of  the  rest,  and  their  expulsion  from  their 
hereditary  homes.  Such  is  too  often  the  real  history  of  Indian 
warfare,  which  in  general  is  traced  up  only  to  some  vindictive 
act  of  a  savage ;  while  the  outrage  of  the  scoundrel  white  man 
that  provoked  it  is  sunk  in  silence. 

The  two  chiefs,  having  smoked  their  pipe  of  peace  and  re 
ceived  a  few  presents,  departed  well  satisfied.  In  a  little  while 
two  others  appeared  on  horseback,  and  rode  up  abreast  of  the 
boats.  They  had  seen  the  presents  given  to  their  comrades, 
but  were  dissatisfied  with  them,  and  came  after  the  boats  to 
ask  for  more.  Being  somewhat  peremptory  and  insolent  in 
their  demands,  Mr.  Hunt  gave  them  a  flat  refusal,  and  threat 
ened,  if  they  or  any  of  their  tribe  followed  him  with  similar 
demands,  to  treat  them  as  enemies.  They  turned  and  rode  off 
in  a  furious  passion.  As  he  was  ignorant  what  force  these 
chiefs  might  have  behind  the  hills,  and  as  it  was  very  possible 
they  might  take  advantage  of  some  pass  of  the  river  to  attack 
the  boats,  Mr.  Hunt  called  all  stragglers  on  board  and  prepared 
for  such  emergency.  It  was  agreed  that  the  large  boat  com 
manded  by  Mr.  Hunt,  should  ascend  along  the  northeast  side 
cf  the  river,  and  the  three  smaller  boats  along  the  south  side. 
By  this  arrangement  each  party  would  command  a  visw  of  the 
opposite  heights  above  the  heads  and  out  of  the  sight  of  their 
companions,  and  could  give  the  alarm  should  they  perceive 
any  Indians  lurking  there.  The  signal  of  alarm  was  to  be 
two  shots  fired  in  quick  succession. 

The  boats  proceeded  for  the  greater  part  of  the  day  without 
seeing  any  signs  of  an  enemy.  About  four  o'clock  in  the  after 
noon  the  large  boat,  commanded  by  Mr.  Hunt,  came  to  where 
the  river  was  divided  by  a  long  sand-bar,  which  apparently, 
however,  left  a  sufficient  channel  between  it  and  the  shore 
along  which  they  wese  advancing.  He  kept  up  this  channel, 
therefore,  for  some  distance,  until  the  water  proved  too  shal 
low  for  the  boat.  It  was  necessary,  therefore,  to  put  about, 
return  down  the  channel,  and  pull  round  the  lower  end  of  the 
sand-bar  into  the  main  stream.  Just  as  he  had  given  orders  to 
this  effect  to  his  men,  two  signal  guns  were  fired  from  the  boats 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  At  the  same  moment  a  file 
of  savage  warriors  was  observed  pouring  down  from  the  im 
pending  bank,  and  gathering  on  the  shore  at  the  lower  end  of 
the  bar.  They  were  evidently  a  war  party,  being  armed  with 


148  ASTORIA. 

bows  and  arrows,  battie-clubs,  and  carbines,  and  round  buck 
lers  of  buffalo  hide,  and  their  naked  bodies  were  painted  with 
black  and  white  stripes.  The  natural  inference  was  that  they 
belonged  to  the  two  tribes  of  Sioux  which  had  been  expected 
by  the  great  war  party,  and  that  they  had  been  incited  to  hos 
tility  by  the  two  chiefs  who  had  been  enraged  by  the  refusal 
and  the  menace  of  Mr.  Hunt.  Here  then  was  a  fearful  pre 
dicament.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  crew  seemed  caught,  as  it  were, 
in  a  trap.  The  Indians,  to  the  number  of  about  a  hundred, 
had  already  taken  possession  of  a  point  near  which  the  boat 
would  have  to  pass :  others  kept  pouring  down  the  bank,  and 
it  was  probable  that  some  would  remain  posted  on  the  top  of 
the  height. 

The  hazardous  situation  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  perceived  by  those 
in  the  other  boats,  and  they  hastened  to  his  assistance.  They 
were  at  some  distance  above  the  sand-bar,  however,  and  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  saw,  with  intense  anxiety, 
the  number  of  savages  continually  augmenting,  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  channel,  so  that  the  boat  would  be  exposed  to  a  fear 
ful  attack  before  they  could  render  any  assistance.  Their 
anxiety  increased,  as  they  saw  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  descend 
ing  the  channel  and  dauntlessly  approaching  the  point  of  dan 
ger;  but  it  suddenly  changed  into  surprise  on  beholding  the 
boat  pass  close  by  the  savage  horde  unmolested,  and  steer  out 
safely  into  the  broad  river. 

The  next  moment  the  whole  band  of  warriors  was  in  motion. 
They  ran  along  the  bank  until  they  were  opposite  to  the  boats, 
then  throwing  by  their  weapons  and  buffalo  robes,  plunged 
into  the  river,  waded  and  swam  off  to  the  boats  and  sur 
rounded  them  in  crowds,  seeking  to  shake  hands  with  every 
individual  on  board;  for  the  Indians  have  long  since  found 
this  to  be  the  white  man's  token  of  amity,  and  they  carry  it 
to  an  extreme. 

All  uneasiness  was  now  at  an  end.  The  Indians  proved  to 
be  a  war  party  of  Arickaras,  Mandans,  and  Minatarees,  con 
sisting  of  three  hundred  warriors,  and  bound  on  a  foray 
against  the  Sioux.  Their  war  plans  were  abandoned  for  the 
present,  and  they  determined  to  return  to  the  Arickara  town, 
where  they  hoped  to  obtain  from  the  white  men  arms  and 
ammunition  that  would  enable  them  to  take  the  field  with  ad 
vantage  over  their  enemies. 

The  boats  now  sought  the  first  convenient  place  for  encamp 
ing.  The  tents  were  pitched ;  the  warriors  fixed  their  camp  at 


ASTORIA.  149 

about  a  hundred  yards  distant;  provisions  were  furnished 
from  the  boats  sufficient  for  all  parties;  there  was  hearty 
though  rude  feasting  in  both  camps,  and  in  the  evening  the 
red  warriors  entertained  their  white  friends  with  dances  and 
songs,  that  lasted  until  after  midnight. 

On  the  following  morning  (July  3d)  the  travellers  re-em 
barked,  and  took  a  temporary  leave  of  their  Indian  friends, 
who  intended  to  proaeed  immediately  for  the  Arickara  town, 
where  they  expected  to  arrive  in  three  days,  long  before  the 
boats  could  reach  there.  Mr.  Hunt  had  not  proceeded  far  be 
fore  the  chief  came  galloping  along  the  shore  and  made  signs 
for  a  parley.  He  said  his  people  could  not  go  home  satisfied 
unless  they  had  something  to  take  with  them  to  prove  that 
they  had  met  with  the  white  men.  Mr.  Hunt  understood  the 
drift  of  the  speech,  and  made  the  chief  a  present  of  a  cask  of 
powder,  a  bag  of  balls,  and  three  dozen  of  knives,  with  which 
he  was  highly  pleased.  While  the  chief  was  receiving  these 
presents  an  Indian  came  running  along  the  shore,  and  an 
nounced  that  a  boat,  filled  with  white  men,  was  coming  up 
the  river.  This  was  by  no  means  agreeable  tidings  to  Mr. 
Hunt,  who  correctly  concluded  it  to  be  the  boat  of  Mr.  Manuel 
Lisa;  and  he  was  vexed  to  find  that  alert  and  adventurous 
trader  upon  his  heels,  whom  he  had  hoped  to  have  out 
manoeuvred,  and  left  far  behind.  Lisa,  however,  was  too 
much  experienced  in  the  wiles  of  Indian  trade  to  be  lulled  by 
the  promise  of  waiting  for  him  at  the  Poncas  village ;  on  the 
contrary,  he  had  allowed  himself  no  repose,  and  had  strained 
every  nerve  to  overtake  the  rival  party,  and  availing  himself 
of  the  moonlight,  had  even  sailed  during  a  considerable  part 
of  the  night.  In  this  he  was  partly  prompted  by  his  appre 
hensions  of  the  Sioux,  having  met  a  boat  which  had  probably 
passed  Mr.  Hunt's  party  in  the  night,  and  which  had  been 
fired  into  by  these  savages. 

On  hearing  that  Lisa  was  so  near  at  hand,  Mr.  Hunt  per 
ceived  that  it  was  useless  to  attempt  any  longer  to  evade  him ; 
after  proceeding  a  few  miles  further,  therefore,  he  came  to  a 
halt  and  waited  for  him  to  come  up.  In  a  little  while  the 
barge  of  Lisa  made  its  appearance.  It  came  sweeping  gently 
up  the  river,  manned  by  its  twenty  stout  oarsmen,  and  armed 
by  a  swivel  mounted  at  the  bow.  The  whole  number  on  board 
amounted  to  twenty-six  men ;  among  whom  was  Mr.  Henry 
Breckenridgc,  then  a  young,  enterprising  man;  who  was  a 
mere  passenger,  tempted  by  notions  of  curiosity  to  accom- 


150  ASTORIA. 

pany  Mr.  Lisa.  He  has  since  made  himself  known  by  various 
writings,  among  which  may  be  noted  a  narrative  of  this  very 
voyage. 

The  approach  of  Lisa,  while  it  was  regarded  with  uneasiness 
by  Mr.  Hunt,  roused  the  ire  of  M'Lellan ;  who  calling  to  mind 
old  grievances,  began  to  look  round  for  his  rifle,  as  if  he 
really  intended  to  carry  his  threat  into  execution  and  shoot 
him  on  the  spot ;  and  it  was  with  some  difficulty  that  Mr. 
Hunt  was  enabled  to  restrain  his  ire,  and  prevent  a  scene  of 
outrage  and  confusion. 

The  meeting  between  the  two  leaders,  thus  mutually  dis 
trustful,  could  not  be  very  cordial;  and  as  to  Messrs.  Crooks 
and  M'Lellan,  though  they  refrained  from  any  outbreak,  yet 
they  regarded  in  grim  defiance  their  old  rival  and  under- 
plotter.  In  truth,  a  general  distrust  prevailed  throughout  the 
party  concerning  Lisa  and  his  intentions.  They  considered 
him  artful  and  slippery,  and  secretly  anxious  for  the  failure  of 
their  expedition.  There  being  now  nothing  more  to  be  appre 
hended  from  the  Sioux,  they  suspected  that  Lisa  would  take 
advantage  of  his  twenty-oared  barge  to  leave  them  and  get 
first  among  the  Arickaras.  As  he  had  traded  with  those 
people  and  possessed  great  influence  over  them,  it  was  feared 
he  might  make  use  of  it  to  impede  the  business  of  Mr.  Hunt 
and  his  party.  It  was  resolved,  therefore,  to  keep  a  sharp 
lookout  upon  his  movements ;  and  M'Lellan  swore  that  if  he 
saw  the  least  sign  of  treachery  on  his  part,  he  would  instantly 
put  his  old  threat  into  execution. 

Notwithstanding  these  secret  jealousies  and  heart-burnings, 
the  two  parties  maintained  an  outward  appearance  of  civility, 
and  for  two  days  continued  forward  in  company  with  some 
degree  of  harmony.  On  the  third  day,  however,  an  explosion 
took  place,  and  it  was  produced  by  no  less  a  personage  than 
Pierre  Dorion,  the  half-breed  interpreter.  It  will  be  recol 
lected  that  this  worthy  had  been  obliged  to  steal  a  march  from 
St.  Louis,  to  avoid  being  arrested  for  an  old  whiskey  debt 
which  he  owed  to  the  Missouri  Fur  Company,  and  by  which 
Mr.  Lisa  had  hoped  to  prevent  his  enlisting  in  Mr.  Hunt's  ex 
pedition.  Dorion,  since  the  arrival  of  Lisa,  had  kept  aloof, 
and  regarded  him  with  a  sullen  and  dogged  aspect.  On  the 
fifth  of  July,  the  two  parties  were  brought  to  a  halt  by  a 
heavy  rain,  and  remained  encamped  about  a  hundred  yards 
apart.  In  the  course  of  the  day  Lisa  undertook  to  tamper 
with  the  faith  of  Pierre  Dorion,  and,  inviting  him  on  board  of 


ASTORIA.  Hi 

his  boat,  regaled  him  with  his  lavorite  whiskey.  When  he 
thought  him  sufficiently  mellowed,  he  proposed  to  him  to  quit 
the  service  of  his  new  employers  and  return  to  his  old  alle 
giance.  Finding  him  not  to  be  moved  by  soft  words,  he 
called  to  mind  his  old  debt  to  the  company,  and  threatened  to 
carry  him  off  by  force,  in  payment  of  it.  The  mention  of  this 
debt  always  stirred  up  the  gall  of  Pierre  Dorion,  bringing  with 
it  the  remembrance  of  the  whiskey  extortion.  A  violent 
quarrel  arose  between  him  and  Lisa,  and  he  left  the  boat  in 
high  dudgeon.  His  first  step  was  to  repair  to  the  tent  of  Mr. 
Hunt  and  reveal  the  attempt  that  had  been  made  to  shake  his 
faith.  While  he  was  yet  talking  Lisa  entered  the  tent,  under 
the  pretext  of  coming  to  borrow  a  towing  line.  High  words 
instantly  ensued  between  him  and  Dorion,  which  ended  by  the 
half-breed's  dealing  him  a  blow.  A  quarrel  in  the  ' '  Indian 
country,"  however,  is  not  to  be  settled  with  fisticuffs.  Lisa 
immediately  rushed  to  his  boat  for  a  weapon.  Dorion  snatched 
up  a  pair  of  pistols  belonging  to  Mr.  Hunt,  and  placed  himself 
in  battle  array.  The  noise  had  roused  the  camp,  and  every 
one  pressed  to  know  the  cause.  Lisa  now  reappeared  upon 
the  field  with  a  knife  stuck  in  his  girdle.  Mr.  Breckenridge, 
who  had  tried  in  vain  to  mollify  his  ire,  accompanied  him  to 
the  scene  of  action.  Pierre  Dorion's  pistols  gave  him  the  ad 
vantage,  and  he  maintained  a  most  warlike  attitude.  In  the 
mean  time  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  had  learnt  the  cause  of  the 
affray,  and  were  each  eager  to  take  the  quarrel  into  their  own 
hands.  A  scene  of  uproar  and  hubbub  ensued  that  defies  de 
scription.  M'Lellaii  would  have  brought  his  rifle  into  play 
and  settled  all  old  and  new  grudges  by  a  pull  of  the  trigger, 
had  he  not  been  restrained  by  Mr.  Hunt.  That  gentleman 
acted  as  moderator,  endeavoring  to  prevent  a  general  melee ; 
in  the  midst  of  the  brawl,  however,  an  expression  was  mado 
use  of  by  Lisa  derogatory  to  his  own  honor.  In  an  instant  the 
tranquil  spirit  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  in  a  flame.  He  now  became 
as  eager  for  fight  as  any  one  on  the  ground,  and  challenged 
Lisa  to  settle  the  dispute  on  the  spot  with  pistols.  Lisa  re 
paired  to  his  boat  to  arm  himself  for  the  deadly  feud.  He  was 
followed  by  Messrs.  Bradbury  and  Breckenridge,  who,  novices 
in  Indian  life  and  the  ' '  chivalry"  of  the  frontier,  had  no  relish 
for  scenes  of  blood  and  brawl.  By  their  earnest  mediation  the 
quarrel  was  with  great  difficulty  brought  to  a  close  without 
bloodshed ;  but  the  two  leaders  of  the  rival  camps  separated 
in  anger,  and  all  personal  intercourse  ceased  between  them. 


152  ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

THE  rival  parties  now  coasted  along  the  opposite  sides  of  the 
river,  within  sight  of  each  other ;  the  barges  of  Mr.  Hunt  al 
ways  keeping  some  distance  in  the  advance,  lest  Lisa  should 
push  on  and  get  first  to  the  Arickara  village.  The  scenery 
and  objects,  as  they  proceeded,  gave  evidence  that  they  were 
advancing  deeper  and  deeper  into  the  domains  of  savage 
nature.  Boundless  wastes  kept  extending  to  the  eye,  more 
and  more  animated  by  herds  of  buffalo.  Sometimes  these  un 
wieldy  animals  were  seen  moving  in  long  procession  across  the 
silent  landscape;  at  other  times  they  were  scattered  about, 
singly  or  in  groups,  on  the  brocid  enamelled  prairies  and  green 
acclivities,  some  cropping  the  rich  pasturage,  others  reclining 
amid  the  flowery  herbage;  the  whole  scene  realizing  in  a 
manner  the  old  scriptural  descriptions  of  the  vast  pastoral 
countries  of  the  Orient,  with  "  cattle  upon  a  thousand  hills." 

At  one  place  the  shores  seemed  absolutely  lined  with  buf 
faloes  ;  many  were  making  their  way  across  the  stream,  snort 
ing,  and  blowing,  and  floundering.  Numbers,  in  spite  of  every 
effort,  were  borne  by  the  rapid  current  within  shot  of  the 
boats,  and  several  were  killed.  At  another  place  a  number 
were  descried  on  the  beach  of  a  small  island,  under  the  shade 
of  the  trees,  or  standing  in  the  water,  like  cattle,  to  avoid  the 
flies  and  the  heat  of  the  day. 

Several  of  the  best  marksmen  stationed  themselves  in  the 
bow  of  a  barge  which  advanced  slowly  and  silently,  stemming 
the  current  with  the  aid  of  a  broad  sail  and  a  fair  breeze.  The 
buffalo  stood  gazing  quietly  at  the  barge  as  it  approached, 
perfectly  unconscious  of  their  danger.  The  fattest  of  the  herd 
was  selected  by  the  hunters,  who  all  fired  together  and 
brought  down  their  victim. 

Besides  the  buffaloes  they  eaw  abundance  of  deer,  and  fre 
quent  gangs  of  stately  elks,  together  with  light  troops  of 
sprightly  antelopes,  the  fleetest  and  most  beautiful  inhabitants 
of  the  prairies.  There  are  two  kinds  of  antelopes  in  these 
regions,  one  nearly  the  size  of  the  common  deer,  the  other  not 
much  larger  than  a  goat.  Their  color  is  a  light  gray,  or  rather 
dun,  slightly  spotted  with  white ;  and  they  have  small  horns, 


AXT01UA.  153 

like  those  of  the  deer,  which  they  never  shed.  Nothing  can 
surpass  the  delicate  and  elegant  finish  of  their  limbs,  in  which 
lightness,  elasticity,  and  strength  are  wonderfully  combined. 
All  the  attitudes  and  movements  of  this  beautiful  animal  are 
graceful  and  picturesque ;  and  it  is  altogether  as  fit  a  subject 
for  the  fanciful  uses  of  the  poet,  as  the  oft-sung  gazelle  of  the 
East. 

Their  habits  are  shy  and  capricious ;  they  keep  on  the  open 
plains,  are  quick  to  take  the  alarm,  and  bound  away  with  a 
fleetness  that  defies  pursuit.  When  thus  skimming  across  a 
prairie  in  the  autumn,  their  light  gray  or  dun  color  blends 
with  the  hue  of  the  withered  herbage,  the  swiftness  of  their 
motion  baffles  the  eye,  and  they  almost  seem  unsubstantial 
forms,  driven  like  gossamer  before  the  wind. 

While  they  thus  keep  to  the  open  plain  and  trust  to  their 
speed,  they  are  safe ;  but  they  have  a  prurient  curiosity  that 
sometimes  betrays  them  to  their  ruin.  When  they  have  scud 
for  some  distance  and  left  their  pursuer  behind,  they  will  sud 
denly  stop  and  turn  to  gaze  at  the  object  of  their  alarm.  If 
the  pursuit  is  not  followed  up  they  will,  after  a  time,  yield  to 
their  inquisitive  hankering,  and  return  to  the  place  from 
whence  they  have  been  frightened. 

John  Day,  the  veteran  hunter  already  mentioned,  displayed 
his  experience  and  skill  in  entrapping  one  of  these  beautiful 
animals.  Taking  advantage  of  its  well  known  curiosity,  he 
laid  down  flat  among  the  grass,  and  putting  his  handkerchief 
on  the  end  of  his  ramrod,  waved  it  gently  in  the  air.  This 
had  the  effect  of  the  fabled  fascination  of  the  rattlesnake. 
The  antelope  gazed  at  the  mysterious  object  for  some  time  at  a 
distance,  then  approached,  timidly,  pausing  and  reconnoiter- 
ing  with  increased  curiosity ;  moving  round  the  point  of  attrac 
tion  in  a  circle,  but  still  drawing  nearer  and  nearer,  until  being 
within  the  range  of  the  deadly  rifle,  he  fell  a  victim  to  his 
curiosity. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  as  the  party  were  making  brisk  prog 
ress  with  a  fine  breeze,  they  met  a  canoe  with  three  Indians 
descending  the  river.  They  came  to  a  parley,  and  brought 
news  from  the  Arickara  village.  The  war  party,  which  had 
caused  such  alarm  at  the  sand-bar,  had  reached  the  village 
some  days  previously,  announced  the  approach  of  a  party  of 
traders,  and  displayed  with  great  ostentation  the  presents  they 
had  received  from  them.  On  further  conversation  with  these 
three  Indians,  Mr.  Hunt  learnt  the  real  danger  which  he  had 


154  AST01UA. 

run,  when  hemmed  up  within  the  sand-bar.  The  Mandans 
who  were  of  the  war  party,  when  they  saw  the  boats  so  com 
pletely  entrapped  and  apparently  within  their  power,  had  been 
eager  for  attacking  it,  and  securing  so  rich  a  prize.  The 
Minatarees,  also,  were  nothing  loath,  feeling  in  some  measure 
committed  in  hostility  to  the  whites,  in  consequence  of  their 
tribe  having  killed  two  white  men  above  the  fort  of  the  Mis 
souri  Fur  Company.  Fortunately,  the  Arickaras,  who  formed 
the  majority  of  the  war  party,  proved  true  in  their  friendship 
to  the  whites,  and  prevented  any  hostile  act,  otherwise  a 
bloody  affray,  and  perhaps  a  horrible  massacre,  might  have 
ensued. 

On  the  llth  of  June  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  encamped 
near  an  island  about  six  miles  below  the  Arickara  village.  Mr. 
Lisa  encamped,  as  usual,  at  no  great  distance;  but  the  same 
sullen  and  jealous  reserve  and  non-intercourse  continued  be 
tween  them.  Shortly  after  pitching  the  tents,  Mr.  Brecken- 
ridge  made  his  appearance  as  an  ambassador  from  the  rival 
camp.  He  came  on  behalf  of  his  companions,  to  arrange  the 
manner  of  making  their  entrance  into  the  village  and  of 
receiving  the  chiefs ;  for  everything  of  the  kind  is  a  matter  of 
grave  ceremonial  among  the  Indians. 

The  partners  now  expressed  frankly  their  deep  distrust  of 
the  intentions  of  Mr.  Lisa,  and  their  apprehensions,  that,  out 
of  the  jealousy  of  trade,  and  resentment  of  recent  disputes, 
he  might  seek  to  instigate  the  Arickaras  against  them.  Mr. 
Breckenridge  assured  them  that  their  suspicions  were  entirely 
groundless,  and  pledged  himself  that  nothing  of  the  kind 
should  take  place.  He  found  it  difficult,  however,  to  remove 
their  distrust;  the  conference,  therefore,  ended  without  pro 
ducing  any  cordial  understanding ;  and  M'Lellan  recurred  to 
his  old  threat  of  shooting  Lisa  the  instant  he  discovered  any 
thing  like  treachery  in  his  proceedings. 

That  night  the  rain  fell  in  torrents,  accompanied  by  thunder 
and  lightning.  The  camp  was  deluged,  and  the  bedding  and 
baggage  drenched.  All  hands  embarked  at  an  early  hour,  and 
set  forward  for  the  village.  About  nine  o'clock,  when  half 
way,  they  met  a  canoe,  on  board  of  which  were  two  Arickara 
dignitaries.  One,  a  fine-looking  man,  much  above  the  com 
mon  size,  was  hereditary  chief  of  the  village;  he  was  called 
the  Left-handed,  on  account  of  a  personal  peculiarity.  The 
other,  a  ferocioufr-looking  savage,  was  the  war  chief,  or  gen 
eralissimo;  he  was  known  by  the  name  of  the  Big  Man,  an 


ASTORIA.  155 

appellation  he  well  deserved  from  his  size,  for  he  was  of  a 
gigantic  frame.  Both  were  of  fairer  complexion  than  is  usual 
with  savages. 

They  were  accompanied  by  an  interpreter,  a  French  Creole, 
one  of  those  haphazard  wights  of  Gallic  origin,  who  abound 
Upon  our  frontier,  living  among  the  Indians  like  one  of  their 
own  race.  He  had  been  twenty  years  among  the  Arickaras, 
had  a  squaw  and  a  troop  of  piebald  children,  and  officiated  as 
interpreter  to  the  chiefs.  Through  this  worthy  organ  the  two 
dignitaries  signified  to  Mr.  Hunt  their  sovereign  intention  to 
oppose  the  further  progress  of  the  expedition  up  the  river  un 
less  a  boat  were  left  to  trade  with  them.  Mr.  Hunt,  in  reply, 
explained  the  object  of  his  voyage,  and  his  intention  of  debark 
ing  at  their  village  and  proceeding  thence  by  land;  and  that  he 
would  willingly  trade  with  them  for  a  supply  of  horses  for  his 
journey.  With  this  explanation  they  were  perfectly  satisfied, 
and  putting  about,  steered  for  their  village  to  make  prepara 
tions  for  the  reception  of  the  strangers. 

The  village  of  the  Bikaras,  Arickaras,  or  Eicarees,  for  the 
name  is  thus  variously  written,  is  between  the  46th  and  47th 
parallels  of  north  latitude,  and  fourteen  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  The  party  reached  it 
about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  but  landed  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  where  they  spread  out  their  baggage  and 
effects  to  dry.  From  hence  they  commanded  an  excellent 
view  of  the  village.  It  was  divided  into  two  portions,  about 
eighty  yards  apart,  being  inhabited  by  two  distinct  bands. 
The  whole  extended  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  along  the 
river  bank,  and  was  composed  of  conical  lodges,  that  looked 
like  so  many  small  hillocks,  being  wooden  frames  intertwined 
with  osier,  and  covered  with  earth.  The  plain  beyond  the  vil 
lage  swept  up  into  hills  of  considerable  height,  but  the  whole 
country  was  nearly  destitute  of  trees.  While  they  were  re 
garding  the  village,  they  beheld  a  singular  fleet  coming  down 
the  river.  It  consisted  of  a  number  of  canoes,  each  made  of  a 
single  buffalo  hide  stretched  on  sticks,  so  as  to  form  a  kind  of 
circular  trough.  Each  one  was  navigated  by  a  single  squaw, 
who  knelt  in  the  bottom  and  paddled,  towing  after  her  frail 
bark  a  bundle  of  floating  wood  intended  for  firing.  This  kind 
of  canoe  is  in  frequent  use  among  the  Indians ;  the  buffalo  hide 
being  readily  made  up  into  a  bundle  and  transported  on  horse 
back  ;  it  is  very  serviceable  in  conveying  baggage  across  the 
rivers. 


156  ASTORIA. 

The  great  number  of  horses  grazing  around  the  village,  and 
scattered  over  the  neighboring  hills  and  valleys,  bespoke  the 
equestrian  habits  of  the  Arickaras,  who  are  admirable  horse 
men.  Indeed,  in  the  number  of  his  horses  consists  the  wealth 
of  an  Indian  of  the  prairies ;  who  resembles  an  Arab  in  his 
passion  for  this  noble  animal,  and  in  his  adroitness  in  the  man 
agement  of  it. 

After  a  time,  the  voice  of  the  sovereign  chief,  "the  Left- 
handed,"  was  heard  across  the  river,  announcing  that  the 
council  lodge  was  preparing,  and  inviting  the  white  men  to 
come  over.  The  river  was  half  a  mile  in  width,  yet  every 
word  uttered  by  the  chieftain  was  heard ;  this  may  be  partly 
attributed  to  the  distinct  manner  in  which  every  syllable 
of  the  compound  words  in  the  Indian  language  is  articulated 
and  accented ;  but  in  truth,  a  savage  warrior  might  often  rival 
Achilles  himself  for  force  of  lungs.* 

Now  came  the  delicate  point  of  management :  how  the  two 
rival  parties  were  to  conduct  their  visit  to  the  village  with 
proper  circumspection  and  due  decorum.  Neither  of  the  lead 
ers  had  spoken  to  each  other  'since  their  quarrel.  All  com 
munication  had  been  by  ambassadors.  Seeing  the  jealousy  en 
tertained  of  Lisa,  Mr.  Breckenridge,  in  his  negotiation,  had 
arranged  that  a  deputation  from  each  party  should  cross  the 
river  at  the  same  time,  so  that  neither  would  have  the  first 
access  to  the  ear  of  the  Arickaras. 

The  distrust  of  Lisa,  however,  had  increased  in  proportion 
as  they  approached  the  sphere  of  action,  and  M'Lellan  in  par 
ticular  kept  a  vigilant  eye  upon  his  motions,  swearing  to  shoot 
him  if  he  attempted  to  cross  the  river  first. 

About  two  o'clock  the  large  boat  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  manned, 
and  he  stepped  on  board,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  M'Kenzie 
and  M'Lellan ;  Lisa  at  the  same  time  embarked  in  his  barge ; 
the  two  deputations  amounted  in  all  to  fourteen  persons,  and 
never  was  any  movement  of  rival  potentates  conducted  with 
more  wary  exactness. 

They  landed  amid  a  rabble  crowd,  and  were  received  on  the 
bank  by  the  left-handed  chief,  who  conducted  them  into  the 
village  with  grave  courtesy ;  driving  to  the  right  and  left  the 
swarms  of  old  squaws,  imp-like  boys,  and  vagabond  dogs,  with 
which  the  place  abounded.  They  wound  their  way  between 
the  cabins,  which  looked  like  dirt-heaps  huddled  together  with- 

*  Bradbury,  p.  110. 


ASTORIA.  157 

out  ciny  plan,  and  surrounded  by  old  palisades ;  all  filthy  in 
the  extreme,  and  redolent  of  villainous  smells. 

At  length  they  arrived  at  the  council  lodge.  It  was  some 
what  spacious,  and  formed  of  four  forked  trunks  of  trees 
placed  upright,  supporting  cross-beams  and  a  frame  of  poles 
interwoven  with  osiers,  and  the  whole  covered  with  earth.  A 
hole  sunken  in  the  centre  formed  the  fireplace,  and  immediately 
above  v/as  a  circular  hole  in  the  apex  of  the  lodge,  to  let  out  the 
smoke  and  let  in  the  daylight.  Around  the  lodge  were  recesses 
for  sleeping,  like  the  berths  on  board  ships,  screened  from  view 
by  curtains  of  dressed  skins.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  lodge 
was  a  kind  of  hunting  and  warlike  trophy,  consisting  of  two 
buffalo  heads  garishly  painted,  surmounted  by  shields,  bows, 
quivers  of  arrows,  and  other  weapons. 

On  entering  the  lodge  the  chief  pointed  to  mats  or  cushions 
which  had  been  placed  around  for  the  strangers,  and  on  which 
they  seated  themselves,  while  he  placed  himself  on  a  kind  of 
stool.  An  old  man  then  came  forward  with  the  pipe  of  peace 
or  good-fellowship,  lighted  and  handed  it  to  the  chief,  and  then 
falling  back,  squatted  himself  near  the  door.  The  pipe  was 
passed  from  mouth  to  mouth,  each  one  taking  a  whiff,  which 
is  equivalent  to  the  inviolable  pledge  of  faith,  of  taking  salt 
together  among  the  ancient  Britons.  The  chief  then  made  a 
sign  to  the  old  pipe-bearer,  who  seemed  to  fill,  likewise,  the 
station  of  herald,  seneschal,  and  public  crier,  for  he  ascended 
to  the  top  of  the  lodge  to  make  proclamation.  Here  he  took 
his  post  beside  the  aperture  for  the  emission  of  smoke  and  the 
admission  of  light;  the  chief  dictated  from  within  what  he  was 
to  proclaim,  and  he  bawled  it  forth  with  a  force  of  lungs  that 
resounded  over  all  the  village.  In  this  way  he  summoned  the 
warriors  and  great  men  to  council ;  every  now  and  then  report 
ing  progress  to  his  chief  through  the  hole  in  the  roof. 

In  a  little  while  the  braves  and  sages  began  to  enter  one  by 
one  as  their  names  were  called  or  announced,  emerging  from 
under  the  buffalo  robe  suspended  over  the  entrance  instead  of 
a  door,  stalking  across  the  lodge  to  the  skins  placed  on  the 
floor,  and  crouching  down  on  them  in  silence.  In  this  way 
twenty  entered  and  took  their  seats,  forming  an  assemblage 
worthy  of  the  pencil ;  for  the  Arickaras  are  a  noble  race  of 
men,  large  and  well  formed,  and  maintain  a  savage  grandeur 
and  gravity  of  demeanor  in  their  solemn  ceremonials. 

All  being  seated,  the  old  t  eneschel  prepared  the  pipe  of  cere 
mony  or  council,  and  having  lit  it,  handed  it  to  the  chief.  He 


153  ASTOniA. 

inhaled  the  sacred  smoke,  gave  a  puff  upward  to  the  heaven, 
then  downward  to  the  earth,  then  toward  the  east ;  after  this 
it  was  as  usual  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth,  each  holding  it 
respectfully  until  his  neighbor  had  taken  several  whiffs ;  and 
now  the  grand  council  was  considered  as  opened  in  due  form. 

The  chief  made  an  harangue  welcoming  the  white  men  to 
his  village,  and  expressing  his  happiness  in  taking  them  by  the 
hand  as  friends ;  but  at  the  same  time  complaining  of  the  pov 
erty  of  himself  and  his  people ;  the  usual  prelude  among  In 
dians  to  begging  or  hard  bargaining. 

Lisa  rose  to  reply,  and  the  eyes  of  Hunt  and  his  companions 
were  eagerly  turned  upon  him,  those  of  M'Lellan  glaring  like  a 
basilisk's.  He  began  by  the  usual  expressions  of  friendship, 
and  then  proceeded  to  explain  the  object  of  his  own  party. 
Those  persons,  however,  said  he,  pointing  to  Mr.  Hunt  and  his 
companions,  are  of  a  different  party,  and  are  quite  distinct  in 
their  views;  but,  added  he,  though  we  are  separate  parties, 
we  make  but  one  common  cause  when  the  safety  of  either  is 
concerned.  Any  injury  or  insult  offered  to  them  I  shall  con 
sider  as  done  to  myself,  and  will  resent  it  accordingly.  I  trust, 
therefore,  that  you  will  treat  them  with  the  same  friendship 
that  you  have  always  manifested  for  me,  doing  everything  in 
your  power  to  serve  them  and  to  help  them  on  their  way. 
The  speech  of  Lisa,  delivered  with  an  air  of  frankness  and  sin 
cerity,  agreeably  surprised  and  disappointed  the  rival  party. 

Mr.  Hunt  then  spoke,  declaring  the  object  of  his  journey  to 
the  great  Salt  Lake  beyond  the  mountains,  and  that  Le  should 
want  horses  for  the  purpose,  for  which  he  was  ready  to  trade, 
having  brought  with  him  plenty  of  goods.  Both  he  and  Lisa 
concluded  their  speeches  by  making  presents  of  tobacco. 

The  left-handed  chieftain  in  reply  promised  his  friendship 
and  aid  to  the  new-comers,  and  welcomed  them  to  his  village. 
He  added  that  they  had  not  the  number  of  horses  to  spare  that 
Mr.  Hunt  required,  and  expressed  a  doubt  whether  they  should 
be  able  to  part  with  any.  Upon  this,  another  chieftain,  called 
Gray  Eyes,  made  a  speech,  and  declared  that  they  could  readily 
supply  Mr.  Hunt  with  all  the  horses  he  might  want,  since,  if 
they  had  not  enough  in  the  village,  they  could  easily  steal 
more.  This  honest  expedient  immediately  removed  the  main 
difficulty ;  but  the  chief  deferred  all  trading  for  a  day  or  two, 
until  he  should  have  time  to  consult  with  his  subordinate 
chiefs,  as  to  market  rates ;  for  the  principal  chief  of  a  village, 
in  conjunction  with  his  council,  usually  fixes  the  prices  at 


ASTORIA.  159 

which  articles  shall  be  bought  and  sold,  and  to  them  the  village 
must  conform. 

The  council  now  broke  up.  Mr.  Hunt  transferred  his  camp 
across  the  river  at  a  little  distance  below  the  village,  and  the 
left-handed  chief  placed  some  of  his  warriors  as  a  guard  to 
prevent  the  intrusion  of  any  of  his  people.  The  camp  was 
pitched  on  the  river  bank  just  above  the  boats.  The  tents,  and 
the  men  wrapped  in  their  blankets  and  bivouacking  on  skins 
in  the  open  air,  surrounded  the  baggage  at  night.  Four  senti 
nels  also  kept  watch  within  sight  of  each  other  outside  of  the 
camp  until  midnight,  when  they  were  relieved  by  four  others 
who  mounted  guard  until  daylight.  Mr.  Lisa  encamped  near 
to  Mr.  Hunt,  between  him  and  the  village. 

The  speech  of  Mr.  Lisa  in  the  council  had  produced  a  pacific 
effect  in  the  encampment.  Though  the  sincerity  of  his  friend 
ship  and  good-will  toward  the  new  company  still  remained 
matter  of  doubt,  he  was  no  longer  suspected  of  an  intention  to 
play  false.  The  intercourse  between  the  two  leaders  was, 
therefore,  resumed,  and  the  affairs  of  both  parties  went  on 
harmoniously. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

A  TRADE  now  commenced  with  the  Arickaras  under  the  regu 
lation  and  supervision  of  their  two  chieftains.  Lisa  sent  a  part 
of  his  goods  to  the  lodge  of  the  left-handed  dignitary,  and  Mr. 
Hunt  established  his  mart  in  the  lodge  of  the  Big  Man.  The 
village  soon  presented  the  appearance  of  a  busy  fair ;  and  as 
horses  were  in  demand,  the  purlieus  and  the  adjacent  plain 
were  like  the  vicinity  of  a  Tartar  encampment;  horses  were 
put  through  all  their  paces,  and  horsemen  were  careering  about 
with  that  dexterity  and  grace  for  which  the  Arickaras  are 
noted.  As  soon  as  a  horse  was  purchased,  his  tail  was  cropped, 
a  sure  mode  of  distinguishing  him  from  the  horses  of  the  tribe ; 
for  the  Indians  disdain  to  practise  this  absurd,  barbarous,  and 
indecent  mutilation,  invented  by  some  mean  and  vulgar  mind, 
insensible  to  the  merit  and  perfections  of  the  animal.  On  the 
contrary,  the  Indian  horses  are  suffered  to  remain  in  every 
respect  the  superb  and  beautiful  animals  which  nature  formed 
them. 

The  wealth  of  an  Indian  of  the  far  west  consists  principally 


1(30  ASTORIA. 

in  his  horses,  of  which  each  chief  and  warrior  possesses  a  great 
number,  so  that  the  plains  about  an  Indian  village  or  encamp 
ment  are  covered  with  them.  These  form  objects  of  traffic,  or 
objects  of  depredation,  and  in  this  way  pass  from  tribe  to  tribe 
over -great  tracts  of  country.  The  horses  owned  by  the  Arick- 
aras  are,  for  the  most  part,  of  the  wild  stock  of  the  prairies-, 
some,  however,  had  been  obtained  from  the  Poncas.  Pawnees, 
and  other  tribes  to  the  southwest,  who  had  stolen  them  from 
the  Spaniards  in  the  course  of  horse-stealing  expeditions  into 
the  Mexican  territories.  These  were  to  be  known  by  being 
branded,  a  Spanish  mode  of  marking  horses  not  practised  by 
the  Indians. 

As  the  Arickaras  were  meditating  another  expedition  against 
their  enemies  the  Sioux,  the  articles  of  traffic  most  in  demand 
were  guns,  tomahawks,  scalping-knives,  powder,  ball,  and  other 
munitions  of  war.  The  price  of  a  horse,  as  regulated  by  the 
chiefs,  was  commonly  ten  dollars'  worth  of  goods  at  first  cost. 
To  supply  the  demand  thus  suddenly  created,  parties  of  young 
men  and  braves  had  sallied  forth  on  expeditions  to  steal  horses ; 
a  species  of  service  among  the  Indians  which  takes  precedence 
of  hunting,  and  is  considered  a  department  of  honorable  war 
fare. 

While  the  leaders  of  the  expedition  were  actively  engaged  in 
preparing  for  the  approaching  journey,  those  who  had  accom 
panied  it  for  curiosity  or  amusement,  found  ample  matter  for 
observation  in  the  village  and  its  inhabitants.  Wherever  they 
went  they  were  kindly  entertained.  If  they  entered  a  lodge, 
the  buffalo  robe  was  spread  before  the  fire  for  them  to  sit 
down ;  the  pipe  was  brought,  and  while  the  master  of  the  lodge 
conversed  with  his  guests,  the  squaw  put  the  earthen  vessel 
over  the  fire,  well  filled  with  dried  buffalo  meat  and  pounded 
corn ;  for  the  Indian  in  his  native  state,  before  he  has  mingled 
much  with  white  men,  and  acquired  their  sordid  habits,  has 
the  hospitality  of  the  Arab:  never  does  a  stranger  enter  his 
door  without  having  food  placed  before  him ;  and  never  is  the 
food  thus  furnished  made  a  matter  of  traffic. 

The  life  of  an  Indian  when  at  home  in  his  village  is  a  life  of 
indolence  and  amusement.  To  the  woman  is  consigned  the 
labors  of  the  household  and  the  field;  she  arranges  the  lodge; 
brings  wood  for  the  fire ;  cooks ;  jerks  venison  and  buffalo  meat ; 
dresses  the  skins  of  the  animals  killed  in  the  chase;  cultivates 
the  little  patch  of  maize,  pumpkins,  and  pulse,  which  furnishes 
a  great  part  of  their  provisions.  Their  time  for  repose  and 


ASTORIA.  161 

recreation  is  at  sunset,  when,  the  labors  of  the  day  being 
ended,  they  gather  together  to  amuse  themselves  with  petty 
games,  or  hold  gossiping  convocations  on  the  tops  of  their 
lodges. 

As  to  the  Indian,  he  is  a  game  animal,  not  to  be  degraded  by 
useful  or  menial  toil.  It  is  enough  that  he  exposes  himself  to 
the  hardships  of  the  chase  and  the  perils  of  war ;  that  he  brings 
home  food  for  his  family,  and  watches  and  fights  for  its  pro 
tection.  Everything  else  is  beneath  his  attention.  When  at 
home  he  attends  only  to  his  weapons  and  his  horses,  preparing 
the  means  of  future  exploit.  Or  he  engages  with  his  comrades 
in  games  of  dexterity,  agility  and  strength ;  or  in  gambling 
games  in  which  everything  is  put  at  hazard,  with  a  reckless 
ness  seldom  witnessed  in  civilized  life.  ^ 

A  great  part  of  the' idle  leisure  of  the  Indians  when  at  home 
is  passed  in  groups,  squatted  together  on  the  bank  of  a  river, 
on  the  top  of  a  mound  on  the  prairie,  or  on  the  roof  of  one  of 
their  earth-covered  lodges,  talking  over  the  news  of  the  day, 
the  affairs  of  the  tribe,  the  events  and  exploits  of  their  last 
hunting  or  fighting  expedition;  or  listening  to  the  stories  of 
old  times  told  by  some  veteran  chronicler;  resembling  a  group 
of  our  village  quidnuncs  and  politicians,  listening  to  the  pros- 
ings  of  some  superannuated  oracle,  or  discussing  the  contents 
of  an  ancient  newspaper. 

As  to  the  Indian  women,  they  are  far  from  complaining  of 
their  lot.  On  the  contrary,  they  would  despise  their  husbands 
could  they  stoop  to  any  menial  office,  and  would  think  it  con 
veyed  an  imputation  upon  their  own  conduct.  It  is  the  worst 
insult  one  virago  can  cast  upon  another  in  a  moment  of  alter 
cation.  "Infamous  woman!"  will  she  cry,  "I  have  seen  your 
husband  carrying  wood  into  his  lodge  to  make  the  fire.  Where 
was  his  squaw  that  he  should  be  obliged  to  make  a  woman  of 
himself  ?" 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  fellow-travellers  had  not  been  many  days 
at  the  Arickara  village,  when  rumors  began  to  circulate  that 
the  Sioux  had  followed  them  up,  and  that  a  war  party,  four  or 
five  hundred  in  number,  were  lurking  somewhere  in  the  neigh 
borhood.  These  rumors  produced  much  embarrassment  in  the 
camp.  The  white  hunters  were  deterred  from  venturing  forth 
in  quest  of  game,  neither  did  the  leaders  think  it  proper  to 
expose  them  to  such  risk.  The  Arickaras,  too,  who  had  suf 
fered  greatly  in  their  wars  with  this  cruel  and  ferocious  tribe, 
were  roused  to  increased  vigilance,  and  stationed  mounted 


162  ASTORIA. 

scouts  upon  the  neighboring  hills.  This,  however,  is  a  general 
precaution  among  the  tribes  of  the  prairies.  Those  immense 
plains  present  a  horizon  like  the  ocean,  so  that  any  object  of 
importance  can  be  descried  afar,  and  information  communi 
cated  to  a  great  distance.  The  scouts  are  stationed  on  the 
hills,  therefore,  to  look  out  both  for  game  and  for  enemies,  and 
are,  in  a  manner,  living  telegraphs  conveying  their  intelligence 
by  concerted  signs.  If  they  wish  to  give  notice  of  a  herd  of 
buffalo  in  the  plain  beyond,  they  gallop  backward  and  forward 
abreast,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  If  they  perceive  an  enemy 
at  hand,  they  gallop  to  and  fro,  crossing  each  other ;  at  sight 
of  which  the  whole  village  flies  to  arms. 

Such  an  alarm  was  given  in  the  afternoon  of  the  15th.  Four 
scouts  were  seen  crossing  and  recrossing  each  other  at  full 
gallop,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  about  two  miles  distant  down 
the  river.  The  cry  was  up  that  the  Sioux  were  coming.  In 
an  instant  the  village  was  in  an  uproar.  Men,  women,  and 
children  were  all  brawling  and  shouting ;  dogs  barking,  yelp 
ing,  and  howling.  Some  of  the  warriors  ran  for  the  horses  to 
gather  and  drive  them  in  from  the  prairie,  some  for  their 
weapons.  As  fast  as  they  could  arm  and  equip  they  sallied 
forth;  some  on  horseback,  some  on  foot.  Some  hastily  ar 
rayed  in  their  war  dress,  with  coronets  of  fluttering  feathers, 
and  their  bodies  smeared  with  paint ;  others  naked  and  only 
furnished  with  the  weapons  they  had  snatched  up.  The  wo 
men  and  'children  gathered  on  the  tops  of  the  lodges  and 
heightened  the  confusion  of  the  scene  by  their  vociferation. 
Old  men  who  could  no  longer  bear  arms  took  similar  stations, 
and  harangued  the  warriors  as  they  passed,  exhorting  them 
to  valorous  deeds.  Some  of  the  veterans  took  arms  them 
selves,  and  sallied  forth  with  tottering  steps.  In  this  way,  the 
savage  chivalry  of  the  village  to  the  number  of  five  hundred, 
poured  forth,  helter-skelter,  riding  and  running,  with  hideous 
yells  and  war-whoops,  like  so  many  bedlamites  or  demoniacs 
let  loose. 

After  a  while  the  tide  of  war  rolled  back,  but  with  far  less 
uproar.  Either  it  had  been  a  false  alarm,  or  the  enemy  had 
retreated  on  finding  themselves  discovered,  and  quiet  was  re 
stored  to  the  village.  The  white  hunters  continuing  to  be  fear 
ful  of  ranging  this  dangerous  neighborhood,  fresh  provisions 
began  to  be  scarce  in  the  camp.  As  a  substitute,  therefore, 
for  venison  and  buffalo  meat,  the  travellers  had  to  purchase  a 
number  of  dogs  to  be  shot  and  cooked  for  the  supply  of  the 


ASTORIA.  163 

camp.  Fortunately,  however  chary  the  Indians  might  be  of 
their  horses,  they  were  liberal  of  their  dogs.  In  fact,  these 
animals  swarm  about  an  Indian  village  as  they  do  about  a 
Turkish  town.  Not  a  family  but  has  two  or  three  dozen  be 
longing  to  it  of  all  sizes  and  colors ;  some,  of  a  superior  breed, 
are  used  for  hunting ;  others,  to  draw  the  sledge,  while  others, 
of  a  mongrel  breed,  and  idle  vagabond  nature,  are  fattened  fcr 
food.  They  are  supposed  to  be  descended  from  the  wolf,  and 
retain  something  of  his  savage  but  cowardly  temper,  howling 
rather  than  barking ;  showing  their  teeth  and  snarling  on  the 
slightest  provocation,  but  sneaking  away  on  the  least  attack. 

The  excitement  of  the  village  continued  from  day  to  day. 
On  the  day  following  the  alarm  just  mentioned,  several  parties 
arrived  from  different  directions,  and  were  met  and  conducted 
by  some  of  the  braves  to  the  council  lodge,  where  they  reported 
the  events  and  success  of  their  expeditions,  whether  of  war  or 
hunting ;  which  news  was  afterward  promulgated  throughout 
the  village,  by  certain  old  men  who  acted  as  heralds  or  town 
criers.  Among  the  parties  which  arrived  was  one  that  had 
been  among  the  Snake  nation  stealing  horses,  and  returned 
crowned  with  success.  As  they  passed  in  triumph  through  the 
village  they  were  cheered  by  the  men,  women,  and  children, 
collected  as  usual  on  the  tops  of  the  lodges,  and  were  exhorted 
by  the  Nestors  of  the  village  to  be-  generous  in  their  dealings 
with  the  white  men. 

The  evening  was  spent  in  feasting  and  rejoicing  among  the 
relations  of  the  successful  warriors ;  but  sounds  of  grief  and 
wailing  were  heard  from  the  hills  adjacent  to  the  village :  the 
lamentations  of  women  who  had  lost  some  relative  in  the  foray. 

An  Indian  village  is  subject  to  continual  agitations  and  ex 
citements.  The  next  day  arrived  a  deputation  of  braves  from 
the  Cheyenne  or  Shienne  nation ;  a  broken  tribe,  cut  up,  like 
the  Arickaras,  by  wars  with  the  Sioux,  and  driven  to  take  ref 
uge  among  the  Black  Hills,  near  the  sources  of  the  Cheyenne 
River,  from  which  they  derive  their  name.  One  of  these  depu 
ties  was  magnificently  arrayed  in  a  buffalo  robe,  on  which 
various  figures  were  fancifully  embroidered  with  split  quills 
dyed  red  and  yellow ;  and  the  whole  was  fringed  with  the  slen 
der  hoofs  of  young  fawns,  and  rattled  as  he  walked. 

The  arrival  of  this  deputation  was  the  signal  for  another  of 
those  ceremonials  which  occupy  so  much  of  Indian  life ;  for  no 
being  is  more  courtly  and  punctilious,  and  more  observing  of 
etiquette  and  formality  than  an  American  savage. 


164  ASTORIA. 

The  object  of  the  deputation  was  to  give  notice  of  an  intended 
visit  of  the  Shienne  (or  Cheyenne)  tribe  to  the  Arickara 
village  in  the  course  of  fifteen  days.  To  this  visit  Mr.  Hunt 
looked  forward,  to  procure  additional  horses  for  his  journey ; 
all  his  bargaining  being  ineffectual  in  obtaining  a  sufficient 
supply  from  the  Arickaras.  Indeed  nothing  could  prevail  upon 
the  latter  to  part  with  their  prime  horses,  which  had  been 
trained  to  buffalo  hunting. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  would  have  to  abandon  his  boats  at  this  place, 
Mr.  Lisa  now  offered  to  purchase  them,  and  such  of  his  mer 
chandise  as  was  superfluous,  and  to  pay  him  in  horses,  to  be 
obtained  at  a  fort  belonging  to  the  Missouri  Fur  Company, 
situated  at  the  Mandan  villages,  about  a  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  further  up  the  river.  A  bargain  was  promptly  made, 
and  Mr.  Lisa  and  Mr.  Crooks,  with  several  companions,  set  out 
for  the  fort  to  procure  the  horses.  They  returned,  after  up 
ward  of  a  fortnight's  absence,  bringing  with  them  the  stipu 
lated  number  of  horses.  Still  the  cavalry  was  not  sufficiently 
numerous  to  convey  the  party  and  the  baggage  and  merchan 
dise,  and  a  few  days  more  .were  required  to  complete  the  ar 
rangements  for  the  journey. 

On  the  9th  of  July,  just  before  daybreak,  a  great  noise  and 
vociferation  was  heard  in  the  village.  This  being  the  usual  In 
dian  hour  of  attack  and  surprise,  and  the  Sioux  being  known 
to  be  in  the  neighborhood,  the  camp  was  instantly  on  the  alert. 
As  the  day  broke  Indians  were  descried  in  considerable  num 
ber  on  the  bluffs,  three  or  four  miles  down  the  river.  The 
noise  and  agitation  in  the  village  continued.  The  tops  of  the 
lodges  were  crowded  with  the  inhabitants,  all  earnestly  looking 
toward  the  hills,  and  keeping  up  a  vehement  chattering.  Pres 
ently  an  Indian  warrior  galloped  past  the  camp  toward  the 
village,  and  in  a  little  while  the  legions  began  to  pour  forth. 

The  truth  of  the  matter  was  now  ascertained.  The  Indians 
upon  the  distant  hills  were  three  hundred  Arickara  braves  re 
turning  from  a  foray.  They  had  met  the  war  party  of  Sioux 
who  had  been  so  long  hovering  about  the  neighborhood,  had 
fought  them  the  day  before,  killed  several,  and  defeated  the 
rest  with  the  loss  of  but  two  or  three  of  their  own  men  and 
about  a  dozen  wounded ;  and  they  were  now  halting  at  a  dis 
tance  until  their  comrades  in  the  village  should  come  forth  to 
meet  them,  and  swell  the  parade  of  their  triumphal  entry. 
The  warrior  who  had  galloped  past  the  camp  was  the  leader  of 
the  party  hastening  home  to  give  tidings  of  his  victory. 


ASTORIA.  165 

Preparations  were  now  made  for  this  great  martial  cere 
mony.  All  the  finery  and  equipments  of  the  warriors  were 
sent  forth  to  them,  that  they  might  appear  to  the  greatest  ad 
vantage.  Those,  too,  who  had  remained  at  home,  tasked  their 
wardrobes  and  toilets  to  do  honor  to  the  procession. 

The  Arickaras  generally  go  naked,  but,  like  all  savages,  they 
have  their  gala  dress,  of  which  they  are  not  a  little  vain.  This 
usually  consists  of  a  gray  surcoat  and  leggins  of  the  dressed 
skin  of  the  antelope,  resembling  chamois  leather,  and  embroi 
dered  with  porcupine  quills  brilliantly  dyed.  A  bufialo  robe  is 
thrown  over  the  right  shoulder,  and  across  the  left  is  slung  a 
quiver  of  arrows.  They  wear  gay  coronets  of  plumes,  particu 
larly  those  Ox  the  swan ;  but  the  feathers  of  the  black  eagle  are 
considered  the  most  worthy,  being  a  sacred  bird  among  the 
Indian  warriors.  He  who  has  killed  an  enemy  in  his  own 
land  is  entitled  to  drag  at  his  heels  a  fox-skin  attached  to  each 
moccason ;  and  he  who  has  slain  a  grizzly  bear  wears  a  neck 
lace  of  his  claws,  the  most  glorious  trophy  that  a  hunter  can 
exhibit. 

An  Indian  toilet  is  an  operation  of  some  toil  and  trouble-, 
the  warrior  often  has  to  paint  himself  from  head  to  foot,  and 
is  extremely  capricious  and  difficult  to  please,  as  to  the  hideous 
distribution  of  streaks  and  colors.  A  great  part  of  the  morn 
ing,  therefore,  passed  away  before  there  were  any  signs  of 
the  distant  pageant.  In  the  mean  time  a  profound  stillness 
reigned  over  the  village.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  had  gone 
forth ;  others  remained  in  mute  expectation.  All  sports  and 
occupations  were  suspended,  excepting  that  in  the  lodges  the 
painstaking  squaws  were  silently  busied  in  preparing  the  re 
pasts  for  the  warriors. 

It  was  near  noon  that  a  mingled  sound  of  voices  and  rude 
music,  faintly  heard  from  a  distance,  gave  notice  that  the  pro 
cession  was  on  the  march.  The  old  men  and  such  of  the 
squaws  as  could  leave  their  employments  hastened  forth  to 
meet  it.  In  a  little  while  it  emerged  from  behind  a  hill,  and 
had  a  wild  and  picturesque  appearance  as  it  came  moving  over 
the  summit  in  measured  step,  and  to  the  cadence  of  songs  and 
savage  instruments ;  the  warlike  standards  and  trophies  flaunt 
ing  aloft,  and  the  feathers,  and  paint,  and  silver  ornaments  of 
the  warriors  glaring  and  glittering  in  the  sunshine. 

The  pageant  had  really  something  chivalrous  in  its  arrange 
ment.  The  Arickaras  are  divided  into  several  bands,  each 
bearing  the  name  of  some  animal  or  bird,  as  the  buffalo,  the 


1GG  ASTORIA. 

bear,  the  dog,  the  pheasant.  The  present  party  consisted  of 
four  of  these  bands,  one  of  which  was  the  dog,  the  most 
esteemed  in  war,  being  composed  of  young  men  under  thirty, 
and  noted  for  prowess.  It  is  engaged  on  the  most  desperate 
occasions.  The  bands  marched  in  separate  bodies  under  their 
several  leaders.  The  warriors  on  foot  came  first,  in  platoons 
of  ten  or  twelve  abreast ;  then  the  horsemen.  Each  band  bore 
as  an  ensign  a  spear  or  bow  decorated  with  beads,  porcupine 
quills,  and  painted  feathers.  Each  bore  its  trophies  of  scalps, 
elevated  on  poles,  their  long  black  locks  streaming  in  the 
wind.  Each  was  accompanied  by  its  rude  music  and  niiii- 
strelsy.  In  this  way  the  procession  extended  nearly  a  quarter 
of  a  mile.  The  warriors  were  variously  armed,  some  few  with 
guns,  others  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  war  clubs;  all  had 
shields  of  buffalo  hide,  a  kind  of  defence  generally  used  by  the 
Indians  of  the  open  prairies,  who  have  not  the  covert  of  trees 
and  forests  to  protect  them.  They  were  painted  in  the  most 
savage  style.  Some  had  the  stamp  of  a  red  hand  across  their 
mouths,  a  sign  that  they  had  drunk  the  life-blood  of  a  foe ! 

As  they  drew  near  to  tha  village  the  old  men  and  the  women 
began  to  meet  them,  and  now  a  scene  ensued  that  proved  the 
fallacy  of  the  old  fable  of  Indian  apathy  and  stoicism.  Parents 
and  children,  husbands  and  wives,  brothers  and  sisters  met 
with  the  most  rapturous  expressions  of  joy;  while  wailings 
and  lamentations  were  heard  from  the  relatives  of  the  killed 
and  wounded.  The  procession,  however,  continued  on  with 
slow  and  measured  step,  in  cadence  to  the  solemn  chant,  and 
the  warriors  maintained  their  fixed  and  stern  demeanor. 

Between  two  of  the  principal  chiefs  rode  a  young  warrior 
who  had  distinguished  himself  in  the  battle.  He  was  severely 
wounded,  so  as  with  difficulty  to  keep  on  his  horse ;  but  he 
preserved  a  serene  and  steadfast  countenance,  as  if  perfectly 
unharmed.  His  mother  had  heard  of  his  condition.  She 
broke  through  the  throng,  and  rushing  up,  threw  her  arms 
around  him  and  wept  aloud.  He  kept  up  the  spirit  and  de 
meanor  of  a  warrior  to  the  last,  but  expired  shortly  after  he 
had  reached  his  home. 

The  village  was  now  a  scene  of  the  utmost  festivity  and  tri 
umph.  The  tanners,  and  trophies,  and  scalps,  and  painted 
shields  were  elevated  on  poles  near  the  lodges.  There  were 
war-feasts  and  scalp-dances,  with  warlike  songs  and  savage 
music ;  all  the  inhabitants  were  arrayed  in  their  festal  dresses ; 
while  the  old  heralds  went  round  from  lodge  to  lodge,  promul- 


ASTORIA.  167 

gating  with  loud  voices  the  events  of  the  battle  and  the  ex 
ploits  of  the  various  warriors. 

Such  was  the  boisterous  revelry  of  the  village ;  but  sounds  of 
another  kind  were  heard  on  the  surrounding  hills;  piteous 
wailings  of  the  women,  who  had  retired  thither  to  mourn  in 
darkness  and  solitude  for  those  who  had  fallen  in  battle. 
There  the  poor  mother  of  the  youthful  warror  who  had  re 
turned  home  in  triumph  but  to  die, .gave  full  vent  to  the 
anguish  of  a  mother's  heart.  How  much  does  this  custom 
among  the  Indian  women  of  repairing  to  the  hill  tops  in  the 
night,  and  pouring  forth  their  wailings  for  the  dead,  call  to 
mind  the  beautiful  and  affecting  passage  of  Scripture,  "In 
Eama  was  there  a  voice  heard,  lamentation,  and  weeping,  and 
great  mourning,  Rachel  weeping  for  her  children,  and  would 
not  be  comforted,  because  they  are  not. " 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

WHILE  Mr.  Hunt  was  diligently  preparing  for  his  arduous 
journey,  some  of  his  men  began  to  lose  heart  at  the  perilous 
prospect  before  them ;  but,  before  we  accuse  them  of  want  of 
spirit,  it  is  proper  to  consider  the  nature  of  the  wilderness  into 
which  they  were  about  to  adventure.  It  was  a  region  almost 
as  vast  and  trackless  as  the  ocean,  and,  at  the  time  of  which  we 
treat,  but  little  known,  excepting  through  the  vague  accounts 
of  Indian  hunters.  A  part  of  their  route  would  lay  across  an 
immense  tract,  stretching  north  and  south  for  hundreds  of 
miles  along  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  drained  by 
the  tributary  streams  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Mississippi. 
This  region,  which  resembles  one  of  the  immeasurable  steppes 
of  Asia,  has  not  inaptly  been  termed  "the  great  American 
desert."  It  spreads  forth  into  undulating  and  treeless  plains, 
and  desolate  sandy  wastes,  wearisome  to  the  eye  from  their 
extent  and  monotony,  and  which  are  supposed  by  geologists 
to  have  formed  the  ancient  floor  of  the  ocean,  countless  ages 
since,  when  its  primeval  waves  beat  against  the  gramitG  bases 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

It  is  a  land  where  no  man  permanently  abides ;  for,  in  cer 
tain  seasons  of  the  year  there  is  no  food  either  for  the  hunter 
or  his  steed.  The  herbage  is  parched  and  withered ;  the  brooks 


168  ASTOKIA. 

and  streams  are  dried  up;  the  buffalo,  the  elk,  and  the  deer 
have  wandered  to  distant  parts,  keeping  within  the  verge  of 
expiring  verdure,  and  leaving  behind  them  a  vast  uninhabited 
solitude,  seamed  by  ravines,  the  beds  of  former  torrents,  but 
now  serving  only  to  tantalize  and  increase  the  thirst  of  the 
traveller. 

Occasionally  the  monotony  of  this  vast  wilderness  is  inter 
rupted  by  mountainous  belts  of  sand  and  limestone,  broken 
into  confused  masses ;  with  precipitous  cliffs  and  yawning  ra 
vines,  looking  like  the  ruins  of  a  world ;  or  is  traversed  by 
lofty  and  barren  ridges  of  rock,  almost  impassable,  like  those 
denominated  the  Black  Hills.  Beyond  these  rise  the  stern  bar 
riers  of  the  Eocky  Mountains,  the  limits,  as  it  were,  of  the 
Atlantic  world.  The  rugged  defiles  and  deep  valleys  of  this 
vast  chain  form  sheltering  places  for  restless  and  ferocious 
bands  of  savages,  many  of  them  the  remnants  of  tribes  once 
inhabitants  of  the  prairies,  but  broken  up  by  war  and  violence, 
and  who  carry  into  their  mountain  haunts  the  fierce  passions 
and  reckless  habits  of  desperadoes. 

Such  is  the  nature  of  this  immense  wilderness  of  the  far 
West ;  which  apparently  defies  cultivation,  and  the  habitation 
of  civilized  life.  Some  portions  of  it  along  the  rivers  may  par 
tially  be  subdued  by  agriculture,  others  may  form  vast  pasto 
ral  tracts,  like  those  of  the  East ;  but  it  is  to  be  feared  that  a 
great  part  of  it  will  form  a  lawless  interval  between  the  abodes 
of  civilized  man,  like  the  wastes  of  the  ocean  or  the  deserts  of 
Arabia ;  and,  like  them,  be  subject  to  the  depredations  of  the 
marauder.  Here  may  spring  up  new  and  mongrel  races,  like 
new  formations  in  geology,  the  amalgamation  of  the  "debris" 
and  "  abrasions"  of  former  races,  civilized  and  savage;  the  re 
mains  of  broken  and  almost  extinguished  tribes ;  the  descend 
ants  of  wandering  hunters  and  trappers ;  of  fugitives  from  the 
Spanish  and  American  frontiers ;  of  adventurers  and  despera 
does  of  every  class  and  country,  yearly  ejected  from  the 
bosom  of  society  into  the  wilderness.  We  are  contributing  in 
cessantly  to  swell  this  singular  and  heterogeneous  cloud  of 
wild  population  that  is  to  hang  about  our  frontier,  by  the 
transfer  of  whole  tribes  of  savages  from  the  east  of  the  Missis 
sippi  to  the  great  wastes  of  the  far  West.  Many  of  these  bear 
with  them  the  smart  of  real  or  fancied  in. juries ;  many  con 
sider  themselves  expatriated  beings,  wrongfully  exiled  from 
their  hereditary  homes  and  the  sepulchres  of  their  fathers,  and 
cherish  a  deep  and  abiding  animosity  against  the  race  that 


ASTORIA.  ]  09 

has  dispossessed  them.  Some  may  gradually  become  pastoral 
hordes,  like  those  rude  and  migratory  people,  half  shepherd, 
half  warrior,  who,  with  their  flocks  and  heids,  roam  the  plains 
of  upper  Asia;  but  others,  it  is  to  be  apprehended,  will  become 
predatory  bands,  mounted  on  the  fleet  steeds  of  the  prairies, 
with  the  open  plains  for  their  marauding  grounds,  and  the 
mountains  for  their  retreats  and  lurking-places.  Here  they 
may  resemble  those  great  hordes  of  the  North — "Gog  and  Ma 
gog  with  their  bands, "  that  haunted  the  gloomy  imaginations 
of  the  prophets.  ' '  A  great  company  and  a  mighty  host,  all 
riding  upon  horses,  and  warring  upon  those  nations  which 
were  at  rest,  and  dwelt  peaceably,  and  had  gotten  cattle  and 
goods. " 

The  Spaniards  changed  the  whole  character  and  habits  of 
the  Indians  when  they  brought  the  horse  among  them.  In 
Chili,  Tucuman,  and  other  parts,  it  has  converted  them,  we 
are  told,  into  Tartar-like  tribes,  and  enabled  them  to  keep  the 
Spaniards  out  of  their  country,  and  even  to  make  it  dangerous 
for  them  to  venture  far  from  their  towns  and  settlements. 
Are  we  not  in  danger  of  producing  some  such  state  of  things 
in  the  boundless  regions  of  the  far  West  ?  That  these  are  not 
mere  fanciful  and  extravagant  suggestions  we  have  sufficient 
proofs  in  the  dangers  already  experienced  by  the  traders  to 
the  Spanish  mart  of  Santa  Fe,  and  to  the  distant  posts  of  the 
fur  companies.  These  are  obliged  to  proceed  in  armed  cara 
vans,  and  are  subject  to  murderous  attacks  from  bands  of 
Pawnees,  Camanches,  and  Blackfeet,  that  come  scouring  upon 
them  in  their  weary  march  across  the  plains  or  lie  in  wait  for 
them  among  the  passes  of  the  mountains. 

We  are  wandering,  however,  into  excursive  speculations, 
when  our  intention  was  merely  to  give  an  idea  of  the  nature 
of  the  wilderness  which  Mr.  Hunt  was  about  to  traverse,  and 
which  at  that  time  was  far  less  known  than  at  present,  though 
it  still  remains  in  a  great  measure  an  unknown  land.  We  can 
not  be  surprised,  therefore,  that  some  of  the  least  resolute  of 
his  party  should  feel  dismay  at  the  thoughts  of  adventuring 
into  this  perilous  wilderness,  under  the  uncertain  guidance  of 
three  hunters,  who  had  merely  passed  once  through  tho  coun 
try  and  might  have  forgotten  the  landmarks.  Their  appre 
hensions  were  aggravated  by  some  of  Lisa's  followers,  who, 
not  being  engaged  in  the  expedition,  took  a  mischievous  pleas 
ure  in  exaggerating  its  dangers.  They  painted  in  strong  col- 
el's,  to  the  poor  Canadian  voyageurs,  the  risk  they  would  run 


170  ASTORIA. 

of  perishing  with  hunger  and  thirst ;  of  being  cut  off  by  war- 
parties  of  the  Sioux  who  scoured  the  plains ;  of  having  their 
horses  stolen  by  the  Upsarokas  or  Crows,  who  infested  the 
skirts  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  or  of  being  butchered  by  the 
Blackfeet,  who  lurked  among  the  defiles.  In  a  word,  there 
was  little  chance  of  their  getting  alive  across  the  mountains; 
and  even  if  they  did,  those  three  guides  knew  nothing  of  the 
howling  wilderness  that  lay  beyond. 

The  apprehensions  thus  awakened  in  the  minds  of  some  of 
the  men  came  well-nigh  proving  detrimental  to  the  expedition. 
Some  of  them  determined  to  desert,  and  to  make  their  way 
back  to  St.  Louis.  They  accordingly  purloined  several  weap 
ons  and  a  barrel  of  gunpowder,  as  ammunition  for  their  enter 
prise,  and  buried  them  in  the  river  bank,  intending  to  seize 
one  of  the  boats  and  make  off  in  the  night.  Fortunately  their 
plot  was  overheard  by  John  Day,  the  Kentuckian,  and  com 
municated  to  the  partners,  who  took  quiet  and  effectual  means 
to  frustrate  it. 

The  dangers  to  be  apprehended  from  the  Crow  Indians  had 
not  been  overrated  by  the  camp  gossips.  These  savages, 
through  whose  mountain  haunts  the  party  would  have  to 
pass,  were  noted  for  daring  and  excursive  habits,  and  great 
dexterity  in  horse  stealing.  Mr.  Hunt,  therefore,  considered 
himself  fortunate  in  having  met  with  a  man  who  might  be  of 
great  use  to  him  in  any  intercourse  he  might  have  with  the 
tribe.  This  was  a  wandering  individual,  named  Edward  Rose, 
whom  he  had  picked  up  somewhere  on  the  Missouri — one  of 
those  anomalous  beings  found  on  the  frontier,  who  seem  to 
have  neither  kin  nor  country.  He  had  lived  some  time  among 
the  Crows,  so  as  to  become  acquainted  with  their  language 
and  customs ;  and  was,  withal,  a  dogged,  sullen,  silent  fellow, 
with  a  sinister  aspect,  and  more  of  the  savage  than  the  civi 
lized  man  in  his  appearance.  He  was  engaged  to  serve  in  gen 
eral  as  a  hunter,  but  as  guide  and  interpreter  when  they  should 
reach  the  country  of  the  Crows. 

On  the  18th  of  July  Mr.  Hunt  took  up  his  line  of  march  by 
land  from  the  Arickara  village,  leaving  Mr.  Lisa  and  Mr.  Nut- 
tall  there,  where  they  intended  to  await  the  expected  arrival 
of  Mr.  Henry  from  the  Rocky  Mountains.  As  to  Messrs. 
Bradbury  and  Breckenridge,  they  had  departed,  some  days 
previously,  on  a  voyage  down  the  river  to  St.  Louis,  with  a 
detachment  from  Mr.  Lisa's  party.  With  all  his  exertions, 
Mr.  Hunt  had  been  unable  to  obtain  a  sufficient  number  of 


ASTORIA.  171 

horses  for  the  accommodation  of  all  his  people.  His  cavalcade 
consisted  of  eighty-two  horses,  most  of  them  heavily  laden 
with  Indian  goods,  beaver  traps,  ammunition,  Indian  corn, 
corn  meal,  and  other  necessaries.  Each  of  the  partners  was 
mounted,  and  a  horse  was  allotted  to  the  interpreter,  Pierre 
Dorion,  for  the  transportation  of  his  luggage  and  his  two  chil 
dren.  His  squaw,  for  the  most  part  of  the  time,  trudged  on. 
foot,  like  the  residue  of  the  party ;  nor  did  any  of  the  men 
show  more  patience  and  fortitude  than  this  resolute  woman  in 
enduring  fatigue  and  hardship. 

The  veteran  trappers  and  voyageurs  of  Lisa's  party  shook 
their  heads  as  their  comrades  set  out,  and  took  leave  of  them 
as  of  doomed  men ;  and  even  Lisa  himself  gave  it  as  his  opin 
ion,  after  the  travellers  had  departed,  that  they  would  never 
reach  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  but  would  either  perish  with 
hunger  in  the  wilderness,  or  be  cut  off  by  the  savages. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

THE  course  taken  by  Mr.  Hunt  was  at  first  to  the  northwest, 
but  soon  turned  and  kept  generally  to  the  southwest,  to  avoid 
the  country  infested  by  the  Blackfeet.  His  route  took  him 
across  some  of  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Missouri,  and  over 
immense  prairies,  bounded  only  by  the  horizon,  and  destitute 
of  trees.  It  was  now  the  height  of  summer,  and  these  naked 
plains  would  be  intolerable  to  the  traveller  were  it  not  for  the 
breezes  which  sweep  over  them  during  the  fervor  of  the  day, 
bringing  with  them  tempering  airs  from  the  distant  mountains. 
To  the  prevalence  of  these  breezes,  and  to  the  want  of  all  leafy 
covert,  may  we  also  attribute  the  freedom  from  those  fiies  and 
other  insects  so  tormenting  to  man  and  beast  during  the  sum 
mer  months,  in  the  lower  plains,  which  are  bordered  and  inter 
spersed  with  woodland. 

The  monotony  of  these  immense  landscapes,  also,  would  be  as 
wearisome  as  that  of  the  ocean,  were  it  not  relieved  in  some 
degree  by  the  purity  and  elasticity  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the 
beauty  of  the  heavens.  The  sky  has  that  delicious  blue  for 
which  the  sky  of  Italy  is  renowned;  the  sun  shines  with  a 
splendor,  unobscured  by  any  cloucl  or  vapor,  and  a  starlight 
night  on  the  prairies  is  glorious.  This  purity  and  elasticity  of 


172  ASTORIA. 

atmosphere  increases  as  the  traveller  approaches  the  moun 
tains,  and  gradually  rises  into  more  elevated  prairies. 

On  the  second  day  of  the  journey  Mr.  Hunt  arranged  the 
party  into  small  and  convenient  messes,  distributing  among 
them  the  camp  kettles.  The  encampments  at  night  were  as 
before :  some  sleeping  under  tents,  and  others  bivouacking  in 
the  open  air.  The  Canadians  proved  as  patient  of  toil  and 
hardship  on  the  land  as  on  the  water;  indeed,  nothing  could 
surpass  the  patience  and  good-humor  of  these  men  upon  the 
march.  They  were  the  cheerful  drudges  of  the  party,  loading 
and  unloading  the  horses,  pitching  the  tents,  making  the  fires, 
cooking;  in  short,  performing  all  those  household  and  menial 
offices  which  the  Indians  usually  assign  to  the  squaws ;  and, 
like  the  squaws,  they  left  all  the  hunting  and  fighting  to  others. 
A  Canadian  has  but  little  affection  for  the  exercise  of  the  rifle. 

The  progress  of  the  party  was  but  slow  for  the  first  few  days. 
Some  of  the  men  were  indisposed ;  Mr.  Crooks,  especially,  was 
so  unwell  that  he  could  not  keep  on  his  horse.  A  rude  kind  of 
litter  was  therefore  prepared  for  him,  consisting  of  two  long 
poles,  fixed,  one  on  each  side  of  two  horses,  with  a  matting  be 
tween  them,  on  which  he  reclined  at  full  length,  and  was  pro 
tected  from  the  sun  by  a  canopy  of  boughs. 

On  the  evening  of  the  23d  (July)  they  encamped  on  the 
banks  of  what  theyHerm  Big  River ;  and  here  we  cannot  but 
pause  to  lament  the  stupid,  commonplace,  and  often  ribald 
names  entailed  upon  the  rivers  and  other  features  of  the  great 
West  by  traders  and  settlers.  As  the  aboriginal  tribes  of  these 
magnificent  regions  are  yet  in  existence,  the  Indian  names 
might  easily  be  recovered ;  which,  besides  being  in  general  more 
sonorous  and  musical,  would  remain  mementoes  of  the  primi 
tive  lords  of  the  soil,  of  whom  in  a  little  while  scarce  any  traces 
will  be  left.  Indeed,  it  is  to  be  wished  that  the  whole  of  our 
country  could  be  rescued,  as  much  as  possible,  from  the 
wretched  nomenclature  inflicted  upon  it  by  ignorant  and  vul 
gar  minds ;  and  this  might  be  done,  in  a  great  degree,  by  restor 
ing  the  Indian  names,  wherever  significant  and  euphonious. 
As  there  appears  to  be  a  spirit  of  research  abroad  in  respect 
to  our  aboriginal  antiquities,  we  would  suggest,  as  a  worthy 
object  of  enterprise,  a  map  or  maps,  of  every  part  of  our 
country,  giving  the  Indian  names  wherever  they  could  be 
ascertained.  Whoever  achieves  such  an  object  worthily,  will 
leave  a  monument  to  his  own  reputation. 

To  return  from  this  digression.     As  the  travellers  were  now 


ASTORIA.  173 

in  a  country  abounding  with  buffalo,  they  remained  for  several 
days  encamped  upon  the  banks  of  Big  River,  to  obtain  a  supply 
of  provisions,  and  to  give  the  invalids  time  to  recruit., 

On  the  second  day  of  their  sojourn,  as  Ben  Jones,  John  Day, 
and  others  of  the  hunters  were  in  pursuit  of  game,  they  came 
upon  an  Indian  camp  on  the  open  prairie,  near  to  a  small 
stream  which  ran  through  a  ravine.  The  tents  or  lodges  were 
of  dressed  buffalo  skins,  sewn  together  and  stretched  on  taper 
ing  pine  poles,  joined  at  top,  but  radiating  at  bottom,  so  as  to 
form  a  circle  capable  of  admitting  fifty  persons.  Numbers  of 
horses  were  grazing  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  camp,  or 
straying  at  large  in  the  prairie ;  a  sight  most  acceptable  to  the 
hunters.  After  reconnoitring  the  camp  for  some  time  they  as 
certained  it  to  belong  to  a  band  of  Cheyenne  Indians,  the 
same  that  had  sent  a  deputation  to  the  Arickaras.  They 
received  the  hunters  in  the  most  friendly  manner;  invited 
them  to  their  lodges,  which  were  more  cleanly  than  Indian 
lodges  are  prone  to  be,  and  set  food  before  them  with  true  un 
civilized  hospitality.  Several  of  them  accompanied  the  hunters 
back  to  the  camp,  when  a  trade  was  immediately  opened.  The 
Cheyennes  were  astonished  and  delighted  to  find  a  convoy  of 
goods  and  trinkets  thus  brought  into  the  very  heart  of  the 
prairie ;  while  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  were  overjoyed 
to  have  an  opportunity  of  obtaining  a  further  supply  of  horses 
from  these  equestrian  savages. 

During  a  fortnight  that  the  travellers  lingered  at  this  place, 
their  encampment  was  continually  thronged  by  the  Cheyennes. 
They  were  a  civil,  well-behaved  people,  cleanly  in  their  persons 
and  decorous  in  their  habits.  The  men  were  tall,  straight,  and 
vigorous,  with  aquiline  noses  and  high  cheek  bones.  Some 
were  almost  as  naked  as  ancient  statues,  and  might  have  stood 
as  models  for  statuary ;  others  had  leggins  and  moccasons  of 
deer  skin,  and  buffalo  robes,  which  they  threw  gracefully  over 
their  shoulders.  In  a  little  while,  however,  they  began  to  ap 
pear  in  more  gorgeous  array,  tricked  out  in  the  finery  obtained 
from  the  white  men — bright  cloths,  brass  rings,  beads  of 
various  colors,  and  happy  was  he  who  could  render  himself 
hideous  with  vermillion. 

The  travellers  had  frequent  occasion  to  admire  the  skill  and 
grace  with  which  these  Indians  managed  their  horses.  Some 
of  them  made  a  striking  display  when  mounted,  themselves 
and  their  steeds  decorated  in  gala  style ;  for  the  Indians  often 
bestow  more  finery  upon  their  horses  than  upon  themselves. 


174  ASTORIA. 

Some  would  hang  round  the  necks,  or  rather  on  the  breasts  of 
their  horses,  the  most  precious  ornaments  they  had  obtained 
from  the  white  men ;  others  interwove  feathers  in  their  manes 
and  tails.  The  Indian  horses,  too,  appear  to  have  an  attach 
ment  to  their  wild  riders,  and  indeed  it  is  said  that  the  horses 
of  the  prairies  readily  distinguish  an  Indian  from  a  white  man 
by  the  smell,  and  give  a  preference  to  the  former.  Yet  the 
Indians,  in  general,  are  hard  riders,  and,  however  they  may 
value  their  horses,  treat  them  with  great  roughness  and  neg 
lect.  Occasionally  the  Cheyennes  joined  the  white  hunters  in 
pursuit  of  the  elk  and  buffalo ;  and  when  in  the  ardor  of  tho 
chase,  spared  neither  themselves  nor  their  steeds,  scouring  the 
prairies  at  full  speed,  and  plunging  down  precipices  and  fright 
ful  ravines  that  threatened  the  necks  of  both  horse  and  horse 
man.  The  Indian  steed,  well  trained  to  the  chase,  seems  as 
mad  as  his  rider,  and  pursues  the  game  as  eagerly  as  if  it  were 
his  natural  prey,  on  the  flesh  of  which  he  was  to  banquet. 

The  history  of  the  Cheyennes  is  that  of  many  of  those  wan 
dering  tribes  of  the  prairies.  They  were  the  remnant  of  a 
once  powerful  people  called  the  Shaways,  inhabiting  a  branch 
of  the  Red  Eiver  which  flows  into  Lake  Winnipeg.  Every 
Indian  tribe  has  some  rival  tribe  with  which  it  wages  implaca 
ble  hostility.  The  deadly  enemies  of  the  Shaways  were  the 
Sioux,  who,  after  a  long  course  of  warfare,  proved  too  power 
ful  for  them,  and  drove  them  across  the  Missouri.  They  again 
took  root  near  the  Warricanne  Creek,  and  established  them 
selves  there  in  a  fortified  village. 

The  Sioux  still  followed  them  with  deadly  animosity ;  dis 
lodged  them  from  their  village,  and  compelled  them  to  take 
refuge  in  the  Black  Hills,  near  the  upper  waters  of  the  Shey- 
enne  or  Cheyenne  River.  Here  they  lost  even  their  name,  and 
became  known  among  the  French  colonists  by  that  of  the  river 
they  frequented. 

The  heart  of  the  tribe  was  now  broken ;  its  numbers  were 
greatly  thinned  by  their  harassing  wars.  They  no  longer  at 
tempted  to  establish  themselves  in  any  permanent  abode  that 
might  be  an  object  of  attack  to  their  cruel  foes.  They  gave  up 
the  cultivation  of  the  fruits  of  the  earth,  and  became  a  wan 
dering  tribe,  subsisting  by  the  chase,  and  following  the  buffalo 
in  its  migrations. 

Their  only  possessions  were  horses,  which  they  caught  on 
the  prairies,  or  reared,  or  captured  on  predatory  incursions 
into  the  Mexican  territories,  as  has  already  been  mentioned. 


ASTORIA.  175 

With  some  of  these  they  repaired  once  a  year  to  the  Arickarn 
villages,  exchanged  them  for  corn,  beans,  pumpkins,  and  arti 
cles  of  European  merchandise,  and  then  returned  into  thf. 
heart  of  the  prairies. 

Such  are  the  fluctuating  fortunes  of  these  savage  nations. 
War,  famine,  pestilence,  together  or  singly,  bring  down  theii 
strength  and  thin  their  numbers.  Whole  tribes  are  rooted  up 
from  their  native  places,  wander  for  a  time  about  these  im* 
merise  regions,  become  amalgamated  with  other  tribes,  or  dis* 
appear  from  the  face  of  the  earth.  There  appears  to  be  a  ten' 
dency  to  extinction  among  all  the  savage  nations;  and  this 
tendency  would  seem  to  have  been  in  operation  among  the 
aboriginals  of  this  country  long  before  the  advent  of  the  whito 
men,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  traces  and  traditions  of  ancient 
populousness  in  regions  which  were  silent  and  deserted  at  tho 
time  of  the  discovery ;  and  from  the  mysterious  and  perplex 
ing  vestiges  of  unknown  races,  predecessors  of  those  -found  in 
actual  possession,  and  who  must  long  since  have  become  grad 
ually  extinguished  or  been  destroyed.  The  whole  history  of 
the  aboriginal  population  of  this  country,  however,  is  an 
enigma,  and  a  grand  one — will  it  ever  be  solved? 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

ON  the  sixth  of  August  the  travellers  bade  farewell  to  the 
friendly  band  of  Cheyennes  and  resumed  their  journey.  As 
they  had  obtained  thirty-six  additional  horses  by  their  recent 
traffic,  Mr.  Hunt  made  a  new  arrangement.  The  baggage  was 
made  up  in  smaller  loads.  A  horse  was  allotted  to  each  of  the 
six  prime  hunters,  and  others  were  distributed  among  the  voy- 
ageurs,  a  horse  for  every  two,  so  that  they  could  ride  and  walk 
alternately.  Mr.  Crooks,  being  still  too  feeble  to  mount  the 
saddle,  was  carried  on  a  litter. 

Their  march  this  day  lay  among  singular  hills  and  knolls  of 
an  indurated  red  earth,  resembling  brick,  about  the  bases  of 
which  were  scattered  pumice  stones  and  cinders,  the  whole 
bearing  traces  of  the  action  of  fire.  In  the  evening  they  en 
camped  on  a  branch  of  Big  River. 

They  were  now  out  of  the  tract  of  country  infested  by  the 
Sioux ,  and  had  advanced  such  a  distance  into  the  interior  that 


176  ASTORIA. 

Mr.  Hunt  no  longer  felt  apprehensive  of  the  desertion  of  any 
of  his  men.  He  was  doomed,  however,  to  experience  new 
cause  of  anxiety.  As  he  was  seated  in  his  tent  after  night 
fall,  one  of  the  men  came  to  him  privately,  and  informed  him 
that  there  was  mischief  brewing  in  the  camp.  Edward  Rose, 
the  interpreter,  whose  sinister  looks  we  have  already  men 
tioned,  was  denounced  by  this  secret  informer  as  a  designing, 
treacherous  scoundrel,  who  was  tampering  with  the  fidelity  of 
certain  of  the  men,  and  instigating  them  to  a  flagrant  piece  of 
treason.  In  the  course  of  a  few  days  they  would  arrive  at  the 
mountainous  district  infested  by  the  Upsarokas  or  Crows,  the 
tribe  among  which  Rose  was  to  officiate  as  interpreter.  His 
plan  was  that  several  of  the  men  should  join  with  him,  when 
in  that  neighborhood,  in  carrying  off  a  number  of  the  horses 
with  their  packages  of  goods,  and  deserting  to  those  savages. 
He  assured  them  of  good  treatment  among  the  Crows,  the 
principal  chiefs  and  warriors  of  whom  he  knew ;  thev  would 
soon  become  great  men  among  them,  a,nd  have  the  finest 
women,  and  the  daughters  of  the  chiefs,  for  wives;  and  the 
horses  and  goods  they  carried  off  would  make  them  rich  for 
life. 

The  intelligence  of  this  treachery  on  the  part  of  Rose  gave 
much  disquiet  to  Mr.  Hunt,  for  he  knew  not  how  far  it  might 
be  effective  among  his  men.  He  had  already  had  proofs  that 
several  of  them  were  disaffected  to  the  enterprise,  and  loath 
to  cross  the  mountains.  He  knew  also  that  savage  life  had 
charms  for  many  of  them,  especially  the  Canadians,  who  were 
prone  to  intermarry  and  domesticate  themselves  among  the 
Indians. 

And  here  a  word  or  two  concerning  the  Crows  may  be  of 
service  to  the  reader,  as  they  will  figure  occasionally  in  the 
succeeding  narration. 

The  tribe  consists  of  four  bands,  which  have  their  nestling 
places  in  fertile,  well- wooded  valleys,  lying  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  watered  by  the  Big  Horse  River  and  its  tribu 
tary  streams;  but,  though  these  are  properly  their  homes, 
where  they  shelter  their  old  people,  their  wives,  and  their 
children,  the  men  of  the  tribe  are  aimost  continually  on  the 
foray  and  the  scamper.  They  are,  in  fact,  notorious  marauders 
and  horse-stealers ;  crossing  and  recrossing  the  mountains, 
robbing  on  the  one  side,  and  conveying  their  spoils  to  the 
other.  Hence,  we  are  told,  is  derived  their  name,  given  to 
them  on  account  of  their  unsettled  and  predatory  habits ;  wing' 


ASTORIA.  177 

ing  their  flight,  like  the  crows,  from  one  side  of  the  mountains 
to  the  other,  and  making  free  booty  of  everything  that  lies  in 
their  way.  Horses,  however,  are  the  especial  objegts  of  their 
depredations,  and  their  skill  and  audacity  in  stealing  them  are 
said  to  be  astonishing.  This  is  their  glory  and  delight ;  an  ac 
complished  horse-stealer  fills  up  their  idea  of  a  hero.  Many 
horses  are  obtained  by  them,  also,  in  barter  from  tribes  in  and 
beyond  the  mountains.  They  have  an  absolute  passion  foi 
this  noble  animal;  besides  which  he  is  with  them  an  important 
object  of  traffic.  Once  a  year  they  make  a  visit  to  the  Mandans, 
Minatarees,  and  other  tribes  of  the  Missouri,  taking  with  them 
droves  of  horses  which  they  exchange  for  guns,  ammunition, 
trinkets,  vermilion,  cloths  of  bright  colors,  and  various  other 
articles  of  European  manufacture.  With  these  they  supply 
their  own  wants  and  caprices,  and  carry  on  the  internal  trade 
for  horses  already  mentioned. 

The  plot  of  Rose  to  rob  and  abandon  his  countrymen  when  in 
the  heart  of  the  wilderness,  and  to  throw  himself  into  the  hands 
of  a  horde  of  savages,  may  appear  strange  and  improbable  to 
those  unacquainted  with  the  singular  and  anomalous  characters 
that  are  to  be  found  about  the  borders.  This  fellow,  it  appears, 
was  one  of  those  desperadoes  of  the  frontiers,  outlawed  by 
their  crimes,  who  combine  the  vices  of  civilized  and  savage 
life,  and  are  ten  times  mere  barbarous  than  the  Indians  with 
whom  they  consort.  Rose  had  formerly  belonged  to  one  of 
the  gangs  of  pirates  who  infested  the  islands  of  the  Mississippi, 
plundering  boats  as  they  went  up  and  down  the  river,  and  who 
sometimes  shifted  the  scene  of  their  robberies  to  the  shore, 
waylaying  travellers  as  they  returned  by  land  from  New 
Orleans  with  the  proceeds  of  iheir  downward  voyage,  plunder 
ing  them  of  their  money  and  effects,  and  often  perpetrating  tho 
most  atrocious  murders. 

These  hordes  of  villains  being  broken  up  and  dispersed,  Rose 
had  betaken  himself  to  the  wilderness,  and  associated  himself 
with  the  Crows,  whose  predatory  habits  were  congenial  with 
his  own,  had  married  a  woman  of  the  tribe,  and,  in  short,  had 
identified  himself  with  those  vagrant  savages. 

Such  was  the  worthy  guide  and  interpreter,  Edward  Rose. 
We  give  his  story,  "however,  not  as  it  was  known  to  Mr.  Hunt 
and  his  companions  at  the  time,  but  as  it  has  been  subsequently 
ascertained.  Enough  was  known  of  the  fellow  and  his  dark 
and  perfidious  character  to  put  Mr.  Hunt  upon  his  guard;  still, 
as  there  was  no  knowing  how  far  his  plans  might  have  sue- 


178  ASTORIA. 

cceded,  and  as  any  rash  act  might  blow  the  mere  smouldering 
sparks  of  treason  into  a  sudden  blaze,  it  was  thought  advisable 
by  those  with  whom  Mr.  Hunt  consulted,  to  conceal  all  knowl 
edge  or  suspicion  of  the  meditated  treachery,  but  to  keep  up  a 
vigilant  watch  upon  the  movements  of  Rose,  and  a  strict  guard 
upon  the  horses  at  night. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

THE  plains  over  which  the  travellers  were  journeying  con 
tinued  to  be  destitute  of  trees  or  even  shrubs ;  insomuch  that 
they  had  to  use  the  dung  of  the  buffalo  for  fuel,  as  the  Arabs  of 
the  desert  use  that  of  the  camel.  This  substitute  for  fuel  is 
universal  among  the  Indians  of  these  upper  prairies,  and  is 
said  to  make  a  fire  equal  to  that  of  turf.  If  a  few  chips  are 
added,  it  throws  out  a  cheerful  and  kindly  blaze. 

These  plains,  however,  had  not  always  been  equally  destitute 
of  wood,  as  was  evident  from  the  trunks  of  the  trees  which 
the  travellers  repeatedly  met  with,  some  still  standing,  others 
lying  about  in  broken  fragments,  but  all  in  a  fossil  state,  having 
flourished  in  times  long  past.  In  these  singular  remains, 
the  original  grain  of  the  wood  was  still  so  distinct  that  they 
could  be  ascertained  to  be  the  ruins  of  oak  trees.  Several 
pieces  of  the  fossil  wood  were  selected  by  the  men  to  serve  as 
whetstones. 

In  this  part  of  the  journey  there  was  no  lack  of  provisions, 
for  the  prairies  were  covered  with  immense  herds  of  buffalo. 
These,  in  general,  are  animals  of  peaceful  demeanor,  grazing 
quietly  like  domestic  cattle ;  but  this  was  the  season  when  they 
are  in  heat,  and  when  the  bulls  are  usually  fierce  and  pugna 
cious.  There  was  accordingly  a  universal  restlessness  and 
commotion  throughout  the  plain ;  and  the  amorous  herds  gave 
utterance  to  their  feelings  in  low  bellowings  that  resounded 
like  distant  thunder.  Here  and  there  fierce  duellos  took  place 
between  rival  enamorados ;  butting  their  huge  shagged  fronts 
together,  goring  each  other  with  their  short  black  horns,  and 
tearing  up  the  earth  with  their  feet  in  perfect  fury. 

In  one  of  the  evening  halts,  Pierre  Dorion,  the  interpreter, 
together  with  Carson  and  Gardpie,  two  of  the  hunters,  were 
missing,  nor  had  they  returned  by  morning.  As  it  was  sup 


ASTORIA.  179 

posed  they  had  wandered  away  in  pursuit  of  buffalo,  and  would 
readily  find  the  track  of  the  party,  no  solicitude  was  felt  on 
their  account.  A  fire  was  left  burning,  to  guide  them  by  its 
column  of  smoke,  and  the  travellers  proceeded  on  their  march, 
In  the  evening  a  signal  fire  was  made  on  a  hill  adjacent  to  the 
camp,  and  in  the  morning  it  was  replenished  with  fuel  so  as  to 
last  throughout  the  day.  These  signals  are  usual  among  the 
Indians,  to  give  warnings  to  each  other,  or  to  call  home  strag 
gling  hunters ;  and  such  is  the  transparency  of  the  atmosphere 
in  those  elevated  plains,  that  a  slight  column  of  smoke  can  be 
discerned  from  a  great  distance,  particularly  in  the  evenings. 
Two  or  three  days  elapsed,  however,  without  the  reappearance 
of  the  three  hunters;  and  Mr.  Hunt  slackened  his  march  to 
give  them  time  to  overtake  him. 

A  vigilant  watch  continued  to  be  kept  upon  the  movements 
of  Rose,  and  of  such  of  the  men  as  were  considered  doubtful  in 
their  loyalty ;  but  nothing  occurred  to  excite  immediate  appre 
hensions.  Rose  evidently  was  not  a  favorite  among  his  com 
rades,  and  it  was  hoped  that  he  had  not  been  able  to  make  any 
real  partisans. 

On  the  10th  of  August  they  encamped  among  hills,  on  the 
highest  peak  of  which  Mr.  Hunt  caused  a  huge  pyre  of  pine 
wood  to  be  made,  which  soon  sent  up  a  great  column  of  flame 
that  might  be  seen  far  and  wide  over  the  prairies.  This  fire 
blazed  all  night  and  was  amply  replenished  at  daybreak ;  so 
that  the  towering  pillar  of  smoke  could  not  but  be  descried  by 
the  wanderers  if  within  the  distance  of  a  day's  journey. 

It  is  a  common  occurrence  in  these  regions,  where  the 
features  of  the  country  so  much  resemble  each  other,  for 
hunters  to  lose  themselves  and  wander  for  many  days,  before 
they  can  find  their  way  back  to  the  main  body  of  their  party. 
In  the  present  instance,  however,  a  more  than  common  solici 
tude  was  felt,  in  consequence  of  the  distrust  awakened  by  the 
sinister  designs  of  Rose. 

The  route  now  became  excessively  toilsome,  over  a  ridge 
of  steep  rocky  hills,  covered  with  loose  stones.  These  were 
intersected  by  deep  valleys,  formed  by  two  branches  of  Big 
River,  coming  from  the  south  of  west,  both  of  which  they 
crossed.  These  streams  were  bordered  by  meadows,  well 
stocked  with  buffaloes.  Loads  of  meat  were  brought  in  by 
the  hunters ;  but  the  travellers  were  rendered  dainty  by  profu 
sion,  and  would  cook  only  the  choice  pieces. 

They  had  now  travelled  for  several  days  at  a  very  slow  rate, 


180  ASTORIA. 

and  had  made  signal  fires  and  left  traces  of  their  route  at 
every  stage,  yet  nothing  was  heard  or  seen  of  the  lost  men. 
It  began  to  be  feared  that  they  might  have  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  some  lurking  band  of  savages.  A  party  numerous 
as  that  of  Mr.  Hunt,  with  a  long  train  of  pack-horses,  moving 
across  open  plains  or  naked  hills,  is  discoverable  at  a  great 
distance  by  Indian  scouts,  who  spread  the  intelligence  rapidly 
to  various  points,  and  assemble  their  friends  to  hang  about 
the  skirts  of  the  travellers,  steal  their  horses,  or  cut  off  any 
stragglers  from  the  main  body, 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  were  more  and  more  sensible 
how  much  it  would  be  in  the  power  of  this  sullen  and  daring 
vagabond  Rose,  to  do  them  mischief,  when  they  should  become 
entangled  in  the  denies  of  the  mountains,  with  the  passes  of 
which  they  were  wholly  unacquainted,  and  which  were  in 
fested  by  his  freebooting  friends,  the  Crows.  There,  should 
he  succeed  in  seducing  some  of  the  party  into  his  plans,  he 
might  carry  off  the  best  horses  and  effects,  throw  himself 
among  his  savage  allies,  and  set  all  pursuit  at  defiance.  Mr. 
Hunt  resolved  therefore  to  frustrate  the  knave,  divert  him,  by 
management,  from  his  plans,  and  make  it  sufficiently  advan 
tageous  for  him  to  remain  honest.  He  took  occasion  accord 
ingly,  in  the  course  of  conversation,  to  inform  Rose  that, 
having  engaged  him  chiefly  as  a  guide  and  interpreter  through 
the  country  of  the  Crows,  they  would  not  stand  in  need  of 
his  services  beyond.  Knowing,  therefore,  his  connection  by 
marriage  with  that  tribe,  and  his  predilection  for  a  residence 
among  them,  they  would  put  no  restraint  upon  his  will,  but, 
whenever  they  met  with  a  party  of  that  people,  would  leave 
him  at  liberty  to  remain  among  his  adopted  brethren. 
Furthermore,  that,  in  thus  parting  with  him,  they  would  pay 
him  half  a  year's  wages  in  consideration  of  his  past  services, 
and  would  give  him  a  horse,  three  beaver  traps,  and  sundry 
other  articles  calculated  to  set  him  up  in  the  world. 

This  unexpected  liberality,  which  made  it  nearly  as  profita 
ble  and  infinitely  less  hazardous  for  Rose  to  remain  honest 
than  to  play  the  rogue,  completely  disarmed  him.  From  that 
time  his  whole  deportment  underwent  a  change.  His  brow 
cleared  up  and  appeared  more  cheerful :  he  left  off  his  sullen, 
skulking  habits,  and  made  no  further  attempts  to  tamper  with 
the  faith  of  his  comrades. 

On  the  13th  of  August  Mr.  Hunt  varied  his  course,  and  in 
clined  westward,  in  hopes  of  falling  In  with  the  three  lost 


ASTORIA.  181 

hunters,  who,  it  was  now  thought,  might  have  kept  to  the 
right  hand  of  Big  River.  This  course  soon  brought  him.  to  a, 
fork  of  the  Little  Missouri,  about  a  hundred  yards  wide,  and 
resembling  the  great  river  of  the  same  name  in  the  strength  of 
its  current,  its  turbid  water,  and  the  frequency  of  drift-wood 
and  sunken  trees. 

Rugged  mountains  appeared  ahead,  crowding  down  to  the 
water  edge,  and  offering  a  barrier  to  further  progress  on  the 
side  they  were  ascending.  Crossing  the  river,  therefore,  they 
encamped  on  its  northwest  bank,  where  they  found  good  pas 
turage  and  buffalo  in  abundance.  The  weather  was  overcast 
and  rainy,  and  a  general  gloom  pervaded  the  camp ;  the  voy- 
ageurs  sat  smoking  in  groups,  with  their  shoulders  as  high  as 
their  heads,  croaking  their  forebodings,  when  suddenly  toward 
evening  a  shout  of  joy  gave  notice  that  the  lost  men  were 
found.  They  came  slowly  lagging  into  the  camp,  with  weary 
looks,  and  horses  jaded  and  wayworn.  They  had,  in  fact, 
been  for  several  days  incessantly  on  the  move.  In  their  hunt 
ing  excursion  on  the  prairies  they  had  pushed  so  far  in  pursuit 
of  buffalo  as  to  find  it  impossible  to  retrace  their  steps  over 
plains  trampled  by  innumerable  herds,  and  were  baffled  by 
the  monotony  of  the  landscape  in  their  attempts  to  recall 
landmarks.  They  had  ridden  to  and  fro  until  they  had  almost 
lost  the  points  of  the  compass,  and  become  totally  bewildered ; 
nor  did  they  ever  perceive  any  of  the  signal  fires  and  columns 
of  smoke  made  by  their  comrades.  At  length,  about  two 
days  previously,  when  almost  spent  by  anxiety  and  hard 
riding,  they  came,  to  their  great  joy,  upon  the  u  trail"  of  the 
party,  which  they  had  since  followed  up  steadily. 

Those  only  who  have  experienced  the  warm  cordiality  that 
grows  up  between  comrades  in  wild  and  adventurous  expedi 
tions  of  the  kind,  can  picture  to  themselves  the  hearty  cheer 
ing  with  which  the  stragglers  were  welcomed  to  the  camp. 
Every  one  crowded  round  them  to  ask  questions,  and  to  hear 
the  story  of  their  mishaps ;  and  even  the  squaw  of  the  moody 
half-breed,  Pierre  Dorion,  forgot  the  sternness  of  his  domestic 
rule,  and  the  conjugal  discipline  of  the  cudgel,  in  her  joy  at 
his  safe  return. 


182  ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

MR.  HUNT  and  his  party  were  now  on  the  skirts  of  the  Black 
Hills,  or  Black  Mountains,  as  they  are  sometimes  called ;  an 
extensive  chain,  lying  about  a  hundred  miles  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  stretching  in  a  northeast  direction  from  the 
south  fork  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  River,  to  the  great  north 
bend  of  the  Missouri.  The  Sierra  or  ridge  of  the  Black  Hills, 
in  fact,  forms  the  dividing  line  between  the  waters  of  the 
Missouri  and  those  of  the  Arkansas  and  the  Mississippi,  and 
gives  rise  to  the  Cheyenne,  the  Little  Missouri,  and  several 
tributary  streams  of  the  Yellowstone. 

The  wild  recesses  of  these  hills,  like  those  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  are  retreats  and  lurking-places  for  broken  and  pre 
datory  tribes,  and  it  was  among  them  that  the  remnant  of  the 
Cheyenne  tribe  took  refuge,  as  has  been  stated,  from  their 
conquering  enemies,  the  Sioux. 

The  Black  Hills  are  chiefly  composed  of  sandstone,  and  in 
many  places  are  broken  into  savage  cliffs  and  precipices,  and 
present  the  most  singular  and  fantastic  forms ;  sometimes  re 
sembling  towns  and  castellated  fortresses.  The  ignorant  in 
habitants  of  plains  are  prone  to  clothe  the  mountains  that 
bound  their  horizon  with  fanciful  and  superstitious  attributes. 
Thus  the  wandering  tribes  of  the  prairies,  who  often  behold 
clouds  gathering  round  the  summits  of  these  hills,  and  light 
ning  flashing,  and  thunder  pealing  from  them,  when  all  the 
neighboring  plains  are  serene  and  sunny,  consider  them  the 
abode  of  the  genii  or  thunder-spirits,  who  fabricate  storms  and 
tempests.  On  entering  their  defiles,  therefore,  they  often 
hang  offerings  on  the  trees,  or  place  them  on  the  rocks,  to 
propitiate  the  invisible  "lords  of  the  mountains, " and  procure 
good  weather  and  successful  hunting ;  and  they  attach  unusual 
significance  to  the  echoes  which  haunt  the  precipices.  This 
superstition  may  also  have  arisen,  in  part,  from  a  natural 
phenomenon  of  a  singular  nature.  In  the  most  calm  and 
serene  weather,  and  at  all  times  of  the  day  or  night,  successive 
reports  are  now  and  then  heard  among  these  mountains,  re 
sembling  the  discharge  of  several  pieces  of  artillery.  Similar 
reports  were  heard  by  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  the  Rocky 


ASTORIA.  183 

Mountains,  which  they  say  were  attributed  by  the  Indians  to 
the  bursting  of  the  rich  mines  of  silver  contained  in  the  bosom 
of  the  mountains. 

In  fact  these  singular  explosions  have  received  fanciful 
explanations  from  learned  men,  and  have  not  been  satisfac 
torily  accounted  for  even  by  philosophers.  They  are  said  to 
occur  frequently  in  Brazil.  Vasconcelles,  a  Jesuit  father, 
describes  one  which  he  heard  in  the  Sierra,  or  mountain  region 
of  Piratininga,  and  which  he  compares  to  the  discharges  of  a 
park  of  artillery.  The  Indians  told  him  that  it  was  an  ex 
plosion  of  stones.  The  worthy  father  had  soon  a  satisfactory 
proof  of  the  truth  of  their  information,  for  the  very  place  was 
found  where  a  rock  had  burst  and  exploded  from  its  entrails  a 
stony  mass,  like  a  bomb-shell,  and  of  the  size  of  a  bull's  heart. 
This  mass  was  broken  either  in  its  ejection  or  its  fall,  and 
wonderful  was  the  internal  organization  revealed.  It  had  a 
shell  harder  even  than  iron ;  within  which  were  arranged,  like 
the  seeds  of  a  pomegranate,  jewels  of  various  colors;  some 
transparent  as  crystal;  others  of  a  fine  red,  and  others  of 
mixed  hues.  The  same  phenomenon  is  said  to  occur  occasion 
ally  in  the  adjacent  province  of  Guayra,  where  stones  of  the 
bigness  of  a  man's  hand  are  exploded,  with  a  loud  noise,  from 
the  bosom  of  the  earth,  and  scatter  about  glittering  and  beau 
tiful  fragments  that  look  like  precious  gems,  but  are  of  no 
value. 

The  Indians  of  the  Orellanna,  also,  tell  of  horrible  noises 
heard  occasionally  in  the  Paraguaxo,  which  they  consider  the 
throes  and  groans  of  the  mountain,  endeavoring  to  cast  forth 
the  precious  stones  hidden  within  its  entrails.  Others  have 
endeavored  to  account  for  these  discharges  of  "mountain 
artillery"  on  humbler  principles ;  attributing  them  to  the  loud 
reports  made  by  the  disruption  and  fall  of  great  masses  of 
rock,  reverberated  and  prolonged  by  the  echoes ;  others,  to  the 
disengagement  of  hydrogen,  produced  by  subterraneous  beds 
of  coal  in  a  state  of  ignition.  In  whatever  way  this  singular 
phenomenon  may  be  accounted  for,  the  existence  of  it  appears 
to  be  well  established.  It  remains  one  of  the  lingering  mys 
teries  of  nature  which  throw  something  of  a  supernatural 
charm  over  her  wild  mountain  solitudes;  and  we  doubt 
whether  the  imaginative  reader  will  not  rather  join  with  the 
poor  Indian  in  attributing  it  to  the  thunder-spirits,  or  the  guar 
dian  genii  of  unseen  treasures,  than  to  any  commonplace  phy 
sical  cause. 


184  ASTORIA. 

Whatever  might  be  the  supernatural  influences  among  these 
mountains,  the  travellers  found  their  physical  difficulties  hard 
to  cope  with.  They  made  repeated  attempts  to  find  a  passage 
through  or  over  the  chain,  but  were  as  often  turned  back  by 
impassable  barriers.  Sometimes  a  defile  seemed  to  open  a 
practicable  path,  but  it  would  terminate  in  some  wild  chaos  of 
rocks  and  cliffs,  which  it  was  impossible  to  climb.  The  ani 
mals  of  these  solitary  regions  were  different  from  those  they 
had  been  accustomed  to.  The  black-tailed  deer  would  bound 
up  the  ravines  on  their  approach,  and  the  bighorn  would  gaze 
fearlessly  down  upon  them  from  "some  impending  precipice,  or 
skip  playfully  from  rock  to  rock.  These  animals  are  only  to 
be  met  with  in  mountainous  regions.  The  former  is  larger 
than  the  common  deer,  but  its  flesh  is  not  equally  esteemed  by 
hunters.  It  has  very  large  ears,  and  the  tip  of  the  tail  is 
black,  from  which  it  derives  its  name. 

The  bighorn  is  so  named  from  its  horns,  which  are  of  a  great 
size,  and  twisted  like  those  of  a  ram.  It  is  called  by  some  the 
argali,  by  others,  the  ibex,  though  differing  from  both  of  these 
animals.  The  Mandans  call  it  the  ahsahta,  a  name  much  bet 
ter  than  the  clumsy  appellation  which  it  generally  bears.  It 
is  of  the  size  of  a  small  elk,  or  large  deer,  and  of  a  dun  color, 
excepting  the  belly  and  round  the  tail,  where  it  is  white.  In 
its  habits  it  resembles  the  goat,  frequenting  the  rudest  preci 
pices;  cropping  the  herbage  from  their  edges;  and,  like  the 
chamois,  bounding  lightly  and  securely  among  dizzy  heights, 
where  the  hunter  dares  not  venture.  It  is  difficult,  therefore, 
to  get  within  shot  of  it.  Ben  Jones  the  hunter,  however,  in 
one  of  the  passes  of  the  Black  Hills,  succeeded  in  bringing 
down  a  bighorn  from  the  verge  of  a  precipice,  the  "flesh  of 
which  was  pronounced  by  the  gourmands  of  the  camp  to  have 
the  flavor  of  excellent  mutton. 

Baffled  in  his  attempts  to  traverse  this  mountain  chain,  Mr. 
Hunt  skirted  along  it  to  the  southwest,  keeping  it  on  the  right, 
and  still  in  hopes  of  finding  an  opening.  At  an  early  hour  one 
day,  he  encamped  in  a  narrow  valley  on  the  banks  of  a  beauti 
fully  clear  but  rushy  pool,  surrounded  by  thickets  bearing 
abundance  of  wild  cherries,  currants,  and  yellow  and  purple 
gooseberries. 

While  the  afternoon's  meal  was  in  preparation,  Mr.  Hunt 
and  Mr.  M'Kenzie  ascended  to  the  summit  of  the  nearest  hill, 
from  whence,  aided  by  the  purity  and  transparency  of  the 
evening  atmosphere,  they  commanded  a  vast  prospect  on  all 


ASTORIA.  185 

sides.  Below  them  extended  a  plain,  dotted  with  innumerable 
herds  of  buffalo.  Some  were  lying  down  among  the  herbage, 
others  roaming  in  their  unbounded  pastures,  while  many  were 
engaged  in  fierce  contests  like  those  already  described,  their 
low  bello  wings  reaching  the  ear  like  the  hoarse  murmurs  of 
the  surf  of  a  distant  shore. 

Far  off  in  the  west  they  descried  a  range  of  lofty  mountains 
printing  the  clear  horizon,  some  of  them  evidently  capped 
with  snow.  These  they  supposed  to  be  the  Big  Horn  Moun 
tains,  so  called  from  the  animal  of  that  name,  with  which  they 
abound.  They  are  a  spur  of  the  great  Rocky  chain.  The  hill 
from  whence  Mr.  Hunt  had  this  prospect  was,  according  to  his 
computation,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the 
Arickara  village. 

On  returning  to  the  camp  Mr.  Hunt  found  some  uneasi 
ness  prevailing  among  the  Canadian  voyageurs.  In  straying 
among  the  thickets  they  had  beheld  tracks  of  grizzly  bears  in 
every  direction,  doubtless  attracted  thither  by  the  fruit.  To 
their  dismay,  they  now  found  that  they  had  encamped  in 
one  of  the  favorite  resorts  of  this  dreaded  animal.  The  idea 
marred  all  the  comfort  of  the  encampment.  As  night  closed, 
the  surrounding  thickets  were  peopled  with  terrors ;  insomuch 
that,  according  to  Mr.  Hunt,  they  could  not  help  starting  at 
every  little  breeze  that  stirred  the  bushes. 

The  grizzly  bear  is  the  only  really  formidable  quadruped  of 
our  continent.  He  is  the  favorite  theme  of  the  hunters  of  the 
far  West,  who  describe  him  as  equal  in  size  to  a  common  cow 
and  of  prodigious  strength.  He  makes  battle  if  assailed,  and 
often,  if  pressed  by  hunger,  is  the  assailant.  If  wounded,  he 
becomes  furious  and  will  pursue  the  hunter.  His  speed  ex 
ceeds  that  of  a  man,  but  is  inferior  to  that  of  a  horse.  In  at 
tacking  he  rears  himself  on  his  hind  legs,  and  springs  the 
length  of  his  body.  Woe  to  horse  or  rider  that  comes  within 
the  sweep  of  his  terrific  claws,  which  are  sometimes  nine 
inches  in  length,  and  tear  everything  before  them. 

At  the  time  we  are  treating  of,  the  grizzly  bear  was  still  fre 
quent  011  the  Missouri,  and  in  the  lower  country,  but,  like 
some  of  the  broken  tribes  of  the  prairie,  he  has  .gradually  fallen 
back  before  his  enemies,  and  is  now  chiefly  to  be  found  in  the 
upland  regions,  in  rugged  fastnesses,  like  those  of  the  Black 
Hills  and  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Here  he  lurks  in  caverns,  or 
holes  which  he  has  digged  in  the  sides  of  hills,  or  under  the 
roots  and  trunks  of  fallen  trees.  Like  the  common  bear  he  is 


186  ASTOlilA. 

fond  of  fruits,  and  mast,  and  roots,  the  latter  of  which  he  will 
dig  up  with  his  fore  claws.  He  is  carnivorous  also,  and  will 
.  even  attack  and  conquer  the  lordly  buffalo,  dragging  his  huge 
carcass  to  the  neighborhood  of  his  den,  that  he  may  prey  upon 
it  at  his  leisure. 

The  hunters,  both  white  and  red  men,  consider  this  the  most 
heroic  game.  They  prefer  to  hunt  him  on  horseback,  and  will 
venture  so  near  as  sometimes  to  singe  his  hair  with  the  flash  of 
the  rifle.  The  hunter  of  the  grizzly  bear,  however,  must  be 
an  experienced  hand,  and  know  where  to  aim  at  a  vital  part ; 
for  of  all  quadrupeds  he  is  the  most  difficult  to  be  killed.  He 
will  receive  repeated  wounds  without  flinching,  and  rarely  is 
a  shot  mortal  unless  through  the  head  or  heart. 

That  the  dangers  apprehended  from  the  grizzly  bear,  at  this 
night  encampment,  were  not  imaginary,  was  proved  on  the 
following  morning.  Among  the  hired  men  of  the  party  was 
one  William  Cannon,  who  had  been  a  soldier  at  one  of  the 
frontier  posts,  and  entered  into  the  employ  of  Mr.  Hunt  at 
Mackinaw.  He  was  an  inexperienced  hunter  and  a  poor  shot, 
for  which  he  was  much  bantered  by  his  more  adroit  comrades. 
Piqued  at  their  raiUery,  he  had  been  practising  ever  since  he 
had  joined  the  expedition,  but  without  success.  In  the  course 
of  the  present  afternoon,  he  went  forth  by  himself  to  take  a 
lesson  in  venerie,  and,  to  his  great  delight,  had  the  good  for 
tune  to  kill  a  buffalo.  As  he  was  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  camp,  he  cut  out  the  tongue  and  some  of  the  choice  bits, 
made  them  into  a  parcel,  and,  slinging  them  on  his  shoulders 
by  a  strap  passed  round  his  forehead,  as  the  voyageurs  carry 
packages  of  goods,  set  out  all  glorious  for  the  camp,  anticipat 
ing  a  triumph  over  his  brother  hunters.  In  passing  through 
a  narrow  ravine  he  heard  a  noise  behind  him,  and  looking 
round  beheld,  to  his  dismay,  a  grizzly  bear  in  full  pursuit,  ap 
parently  attracted  by  the  scent  of  the  meat.  Cannon  had 
heard  so  much  of  the  invulnerability  of  this  tremendous  ani 
mal,  that  he  never  attempted  to  fire,  but,  slipping  the  strap 
from  his  forehead,  let  go  the  buffalo  meat  and  ran  for  his 
life.  The  bear  did  not  stop  to  regale  himself  with  the  game, 
but  kept  on  after  the  hunter.  He  had  nearly  overtaken  him 
when  Cannon  reached  a  tree,  and,  throwing  down  his  rifle, 
scrambled  up  it.  The  next  instant  Bruin  was  at  the  foot  of 
the  tree ;  but,  as  this  species  of  bear  does  not  climb,  he  con 
tented  himself  with  turning  the  chase  into  a  blockade.  Night 
came  on.  In  the  darkness  Cannon  could  not  perceive  whether 


ASTORIA,  187 

or  not  the  enemy  maintained  his  station ;  but  his  fears  pic 
tured  him  rigorously  mounting  guard.  He  passed  the  night, 
therefore,  in  the  tree,  a  prey  to  dismal  fancies.  In  the  morn 
ing  the  bear  was  gone.  Cannon  warily  descended  the  tree, 
gathered  up  his  gun,  and  made  the  best  of  his  way  back  to 
the  camp,  without  venturing  to  look  after  his  buffalo  meat. 

While  on  this  theme  we  will  add  another  anecdote  of  an  ad 
venture  with  a  grizzly  bear,  told  of  John  Day,  the  Kentucky 
hunter,  but  which  happened  at  a  different  period  of  the  expe 
dition.  Day  was  hunting  in  company  with  one  of  the  clerks 
of  the  company,  a  lively  youngster,  who  was  a  great  favorite 
with  the  veteran,  but  whose  vivacity  he  had  continually  to 
keep  in  check.  They  were  in  search  of  deer,  when  suddenly  a 
huge  grizzly  bear  emerged  from  a  thicket  about  thirty  yards 
distant,  rearing  himself  upon  his  hind  legs  with  a  terrific 
growl,  and  displaying  a  hideous  array  of  teeth  and  claws. 
The  rifle  of  the  young  man  was  levelled  in  an  instant,  but 
John  Day's  iron*  hand  was  as  quickly  upon  his  arm.  "Be 
quiet,  boy!  be  quiet!"  exclaimed  the  hunter,  between  his 
clenched  teeth,  and  without  turning  his  eyes  from  the  bear. 
They  remained  motionless.  The  monster  regarded  them,  for 
a  time,  then,  lowering  himself  on  his  fore  paws,  slowly  with 
drew.  He  had  not  gone  many  paces  before  he  again  turned, 
reared  himself  on  his  hind  legs,  and  repeated  his  menace. 
Day's  hand  was  still  on  the  arm  of  his  young  companion ;  he 
again  pressed  it  hard,  and  kept  repeating  between  his  teeth, 
"Quiet,  boy !— keep  quiet!— keep  quiet!"  though  the  latter  had 
not  made  a  move  since  his  first  prohibition.  The  bear  again 
lowered  himself  on  all  fours,  retreated  some  twenty  yards 
further,  and  again  turned,  reared,  showed  his  teeth,  and 
growled.  This  third  menace  was  too  much  for  the  game 
spirit  of  John  Day.  "By  Jove!"  exclaimed  he,  "I  can  stand 
this  no  longer,"  and  in  an  instant  a  ball  from  his  rifle  whizzed 
into  the  foe.  The  wound  was  not  mortal ;  but,  luckily,  it  dis 
mayed  instead  of  enraging  the  animal,  and  he  retreated  into 
the  thicket. 

Day's  young  companion  reproached  him  for  not  practising 
the  caution  which  he  enjoined  upon  others.  "Why,  boy," 
replied  the  veteran,  "caution  is  caution,  but  one  must  not  put 
up  with  too  much  even  from  a  bear.  Would  you  have  me  suf 
fer  myself  to  be  bullied  all  day  by  a  varmint?" 


188  ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

FOR  the  two  following  days  the  travellers  pursued  a  west> 
erly  course  for  thirty -four  miles  along  a  ridge  of  country  divid 
ing  the  tributary  waters  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Yellowstone. 
As  landmarks  they  guided  themselves  by  the  summits  of  the 
far  distant  mountains,  which  they  supposed  to  belong  to  the 
Big  Horn  chain.  They  were  gradually  rising  into  a  higher 
temperature,  for  the  weather  was  cold  for  the  season,  with  a 
sharp  frost  in  the  night,  and  ice  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness. 

On  the  twenty-second  of  August,  early  in  the  day,  they  came 
upon  the  trail  of  a  numerous  band.  Rose  and  the  other  hunters 
examined  the  footprints  with  great  attention^  and  determined 
it  to  be  the  trail  of  a  party  of  Crows  returning  from  an  annual 
trading  visit  to  the  Mandans.  As  this  trail  afforded  more 
commodious  travelling,  they  immediately  struck  into  it,  and 
followed  it  for  two  days.  It  led  them  over  rough  hills,  and 
through  broken  gullies,  during  which  time  they  suffered  great 
fatigue  from  the  ruggedness  of  the  country.  The  weather,  too, 
which  had  recently  been  frosty,  was  now  oppressively  warm, 
and  there  was  a  great  scarcity  of  water,  insomuch  that  a  valu 
able  dog  belonging  to  Mr.  M'Kenzie  died  of  thirst. 

At  one  time  they  had  twenty-five  miles  of  painful  travel, 
without  a  drop  of  water,  until  they  arrived  at  a  small  running 
stream.  Here  they  eagerly  slaked  their  thirst ;  but,  this  being 
allayed,  the  calls  of  hunger  became  equally  importunate. 
Ever  since  they  had  got  among  these  barren  and  arid  hills, 
where  there  was  a  deficiency  of  grass,  they  had  met  with  no 
buffaloes,  those  animals  keeping  in  the  grassy  meadows  near 
the  streams.  They  were  obliged,  therefore,  to  have  recourse  to 
their  corn  meal,  which  they  reserved  for  such  emergencies. 
Some,  however,  were  lucky  enough  to  kill  a  wolf,  which  they 
cooked  for  supper,  and  pronounced  excellent  food. 

The  next  morning  they  resumed  their  wayfaring,  hungry 
and  jaded,  and  had  a  dogged  march  of  eighteen  miles  among 
the  same  kind  of  hills.  At  length  they  emerged  upon  a  stream 
of  clear  water,  one  of  the  forks  of  Powder  River,  and  to  their 
great  joy  beheld  once  more  wide  grassy  meadows,  stocked 


ASTORIA.  189 

with  herds  of  buffalo.  For  several  days  they  kept  along  the 
banks  of  the  river,  ascending  it  about  eighteen  miles.  It  was  a 
hunter's  paradise ;  the  buffaloes  were  in  such  abundance  that 
they  were  enabled  to  kill  as  many  as  they  pleased,  and  to 
jerk  a  sufficient  supply  of  meat  for  several  days'  journeying. 
Here,  then,  they  revelled  and  reposed  after  their  hungry  and 
weary  travel,  hunting  and  feasting,  and  reclining  upon  the 
grass.  Their  quiet,  however,  was  a  little  marred  by  coming 
upon  traces  of  Indians,  who,  they  concluded,  must  be  Crows ; 
they  were  therefore  obliged  to  keep  a  more  vigilant  watch  than 
ever  upon  their  horses.  For  several  days  they  had  been  direct 
ing  their  march  toward  the  lofty  mountain  described  by  Mr. 
Hunt  and  Mr.  M'Kenzie  on  the  17th  of  August,  the  height  of 
which  rendered  it  a  landmark  over  a  vast  extent  of  country. 
At  first  it  had  appeared  to  them  solitary  and  detached ;  but  as 
they  advanced  toward  it,  it  proved  to  be  the  principal  summit 
of  a  chain  of  mountains.  Day  by  day  it  varied  in  form,  or 
rather  its  lower  peaks,  and  the  summits  of  others  of  the  chain 
emerged  above  the  clear  horizon,  and  finally  the  inferior  line 
of  hills  which  connected  most  of  them  rose  to  view.  So  far, 
however,  are  objects  discernible  in  the  pure  atmosphere  of 
these  elevated  plains,  that,  from  the  place  where  they  first 
descried  the  main  mountain,  they  had  to  travel  a  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  before  they  reached  its  base.  Here  they  encamped 
on  the  thirtieth  of  August,  having  come  nearly  four  hundred 
miles  since  leaving  the  Arickara  village. 

The  mountain  which  now  towered  above  them  was  one  of  the 
Big  Horn  chain,  bordered  by  a  river  of  the  same  name,  and 
extending  for  a  long  distance  rather  east  of  north  and  west  of 
south.  It  was  a  part  of  the  great  system  of  granite  mountains 
which  forms  one  of  the  most  important  and  striking  features 
of  North  America,  stretching  parallel  to  the  coast  of  the  Pacific 
from  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  almost  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and 
presenting  a  corresponding  chain  to  that  of  the  Andes  in  the 
southern  hemisphere.  This  vast  range  has  acquired,  from  its 
rugged  and  broken  character,  and  its  summits  of  naked  gran 
ite,  the  appellation  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  a  name  by  no 
means  distinctive,  as  all  elevated  ranges  are  rocky.  Among 
the  early  explorers  it  was  known  as  the  range  of  Chippewyan 
Mountains,  and  this  Indian  name  is  the  one  it  is  likely  to  re 
tain  in  poetic  usage.  Rising  from  the  midst  of  vast  plains  and 
prairies,  traversing  several  degrees  of  latitude,  dividing  the 
waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific,  and  seeming  toTbind 


190  ASTORIA. 

with  diverging  ridges  the  level  regions  on  its  flanks,  it  has 
been  figuratively  termed  the  backbone  of  the  northern  con 
tinent. 

The  Rocky  Mountains  do  not  present  a  range  of  uniform 
elevation,  but  rather  groups  and  occasionally  detached  peaks. 
Though  some  of  these  rise  to  the  region  of  perpetual  snows, 
and  are  upward  of  eleven  thousand  feet  in  real  altitude,  yet 
their  height  from  their  immediate  basis  is  not  so  great  as  might 
be  imagined,  as  they  swell  up  from  elevated  plains,  several 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  These  plains  are 
often  of  a  desolate  sterility ;  mere  sandy  wastes,  formed  of  the 
detritus  of  the  granite  heights,  destitute  of  trees  and  herbage, 
scorched  by  the  ardent  and  reflected  rays  of  the  summer's  sun, 
and  in  winter  swept  by  chilling  blasts  from  the  snow-clad 
mountains.  Such  is  a  great  part  of  that  vast  region  extending 
north  and  south  along  the  mountains,  several  hundred  miles  in 
width,  which  has  not  improperly  been  termed  the  Great  Ameri 
can  Desert.  It  is  a  region  that  almost  discourages  all  hope  of 
cultivation,  and  can  only  be  traversed  with  safety  by  keeping 
near  the  .streams  which  intersect  it.  Extensive  plains  likewise 
occur  among  the  higher  regions  of  the  mountains,  of  consider 
able  fertility.  Indeed,  these  lofty  plats  of  table-land  seem  to 
form  a  peculiar  feature  in  the  American  continents.  Some 
occur  among  the  Cordilleras  of  the  Andes,  where  cities  and 
towns  and  cultivated  farms  are  to  be  seen  eight  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  Rocky  Mountains,  as  we  have  already  observed,  occur 
sometimes  singly  or  in  groups,  and  occasionally  in  collateral 
ridges.  Between  these  are  deep  valleys,  with  small  streams 
winding  through  them,  which  'find  their  way  into  the  lower 
plains,  augmenting  as  they  proceed,  and  ultimately  discharg 
ing  themselves  into  those  'vast  rivers  which  traverse  the 
prairies  like  great  arteries  and  drain  the  continent. 

While  the  granitic  summits  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are 
bleak  and  bare,  many  of  the  inferior  ridges  are  scantily  clothed 
with  scrubbed  pines,  oaks,  cedar,  and  furze.  Various  parts  of 
the  mountains  also  bear  traces  of  volcanic  action.  Some  of  the 
interior  valleys  are  strewed  with  scoria  and  broken  stones, 
evidently  of  volcanic  origin;  the  surrounding  rocks  bear  the 
like  character,  and  vestiges  of  extinguished  craters  are  to  bo 
seen  on  the  elevated  heights. 

We  have  already  noticed  the  superstitious  feelings  with 
which  the  Indians  regard  the  Black  Hills ;  but  this  immense 


ASTORIA.  191 

range  of  mountains,  which  divides  all  that  they  know  of  the 
world,  and  gives  birth  to  such  mighty  rivers,  is  still  more  an 
object  of  awe  and  veneration.  They  call  it  "the  crest  of  the 
world,"  and  think  that  Wacondah,  or  the  master  of  life,  as 
they  designate  the  Supreme  Being,  has  his  residence  among 
these  aerial  heights.  The  tribes  on  the  eastern  prairies  call 
them  the  mountains  of  the  setting  sun.  Some  of  them  place 
the  "happy  hunting-grounds,"  their  ideal  paradise,  among  the 
recesses  of  these  mountains;  but  say  they  are  invisible  to  liv 
ing  men.  Here  also  is  the  "  Land  of  Souls,"  in  which  are  the 
' '  towns  of  the  free  and  generous  spirits, "  where  those  who 
have  pleased  the  master  of  life  while  living,  enjoy  after  death 
all  manner  of  delights. 

Wonders  are  told  of  these  mountains  by  the  distant  tribes, 
whose  warriors  or  hunters  have  ever  wandered  in  their  neigh 
borhood.  It  is  thought  by  some  that,  after  death,  they  will 
have  to  travel  to  these  mountains  and  ascend  one  of  their  high 
est  and  most  rugged  peaks,  among  rocks,  and  snows,  and  tum 
bling  torrents.  After  many  moons  of  painful  toil  they  will  reach 
the  summit,  from  whence  they  will  have  a  view  over  the  land 
of  souls.  There  they  will  see  the  happy  hunting-grounds,  with 
the  souls  of  the  brave  and  good  living  in  tents  in  green  mead 
ows,  by  bright  running  streams,  or  hunting  the  herds  of  buffalo, 
and  elks,  and  deer,  which  have  been  slain  on  earth.  There, 
toe,  they  will  see  the  villages  or  towns  of  the  free  and  generous 
spirits  brightening  in  the  midst  of  delicious  prairies.  If  they 
have  acquitted  themselves  well  while  living,  they  will  be  per 
mitted  to  descend  and  enjoy  this  happy  country ;  if  otherwise, 
they  will  but  be  tantalized  with  this  prospect  of  it,  and  then 
hurled  back  from  the  mountain  to  wander  about  the  sandy 
plains,  and  endure  the  eternal  pangs  of  unsatisfied  thirst  and 
hunger. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

THE  travellers  had  now  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of  the  moun 
tain  regions  infested  by  the  Crow  Indians.  These  restless 
marauders,  as  has  already  been  observed,  are  apt  to  be  con 
tinually  on  the  prowl  about  the  skirts  of  the  mountains ;  and 
even  when  encamped  in  some  deep  and  secluded  glen,  they 


192  ASTORIA. 

keep  scouts  upon  the  cliffs  and  promontories,  who,  unseen 
themselves,  can  discern  every  living  thing  that  moves  over  the 
subjacent  plains  and  valleys.  It  was  not  to  be  expected  that 
our  travellers  could  pass  unseen  through  are  gion  thus  vigi 
lantly  sentinelled ;  accordingly,  in  the  edge  of  the  evening,  not 
long  after  they  had  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  Big  Horn 
Sierra,  a  couple  of  wild-looking  beings,  scantily  clad  in  skins, 
but  well  armed,  and  mounted  on  horses  as  wild-looking  as 
themselves,  were  seen  approaching  with  great  caution  from 
among  the  rocks.  They  might  have  been  mistaken  tor  two  of 
the  evil  spirits  of  the  mountains  so  formidable  in  Indian  fable. 

Rose  was  immediately  sent  out  to  hold  a  parley  with  them, 
and  invite  them  to  the  camp.  They  proved  to  be  two  scouts 
from  the  same  band  that  had  been  tracked  for  some  days  past, 
and  which  was  now  encamped  at  some  distance  in  tlie  folds  of 
the  mountain.  They  were  easily  prevailed  upon  to  come  to  the 
camp,  where  they  were  well  received,  and,  after  remaining 
there  until  late  in  the  evening,  departed  to  make  a  report  of  all 
they  had  seen  and  experienced  to  their  companions. 

The  following  day  had  scarce  dawne  .1  when  a  troop  of  these 
wild  mountain  scamperers  came  galloping  with  whoops  and 
yells  into  the  camp,  bringing  an  invitation  from  their  chief  for 
the  white  men  to  visit  him.  The  tents  were  accordingly  struck, 
the  horses  laden,  and  the  party  were  soon  on  the  march.  The 
Crow  horsemen,  as  they  escorted  them,  appeared  to  take  pride 
in  showing  off  their  equestrian  skill  and  hardihood ;  careering 
at  full  speed  on  their  half -savage  steads,  and  dashing  among 
rocks  and  crags,  and  up  and  down  the  most  rugged  and  dan 
gerous  places  with  perfect  ease  and  unconcern. 

A  ride  of  sixteen  miles  brought  them,  in  the  afternoon,  in 
sight  of  the  Crow  camp.  It  was  composed  of  leathern  tents, 
pitched  in  a  meadow  on  the  border  of  a  small  clear  stream  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain.  A  great  number  of  horses  were 
grazing  in  the  vicinity,  many  of  them  doubtless  captured  in 
marauding  excursions. 

The  Crow  chieftain  came  forth  to  meet  his  guests  with  great 
professions  of  friendship,  and  conducted  them  to  his  tents, 
pointing  out,  by  the  way,  a  convenient  place  where  they  might 
fix  their  camp.  No  sooner  had  they  done  so  than  Mr.  Hunt 
opened  some  of  the  packages  and  made  the  chief  a  present-  of 
a,  scarlet  blanket,  and  a  quantity  of  powder  and  ball ;  he  gave 
him  also  some  knives,  trinkets,  and  tobacco  to  be  distributed 
among  his  warriors,  with  all  which  the  griin  potentate  seemed 


ASTORIA.  193 

for  the  time  well  pleased.  As  the  Crows,  however,  were  reputed 
to  be  perfidious  in  the  extreme,  and  as  errant  freebooters  as  the 
bird  after  which  they  were  so  worthily  named,  and  as  their  gen 
eral  feelings  toward  the  whites  were  known  to  be  by  no  means 
friendly,  the  intercourse  with  them  was  conducted  with  great 
circumspection. 

The  following  day  was  passed  in  trading  with  the  Crows  for 
buffalo  robes  and  skins,  and  in  bartering  galled  and  jaded 
horses  for  others  that  were  in  good  condition.  Some  of  the 
men  also  purchased  horses  on  their  own  account,  so  that  the 
number  now  amounted  to  one  hundred  and  twenty-one,  most 
of  them  sound  and  active  and  fit  for  mountain  service. 

Their  wants  being  supplied,  they  ceased  all  further  traffic, 
much  to  the  dissatisfaction  of  the  Crows,  who  became  extremely 
urgent  to  continue  the  trade,  and,  finding  their  importunities 
of  no  avail,  assumed  an  insolent  and  menacing  tone.  All  this 
was  attributed  by  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  associates  to  the  perfidious 
instigations  of  Rose  the  interpreter,  who  they  suspected  of  the 
desire  to  foment  ill-will  between  them  and  the  savages,  for  the 
promotion  of  his  nefarious  plans.  M'Lellan,  with  his  usual 
tranchant  mode  of  dealing  out  justice,  resolved  to  shoot  the 
desperado  on  the  spot  in  case  of  any  outbreak.  Nothing  of  the 
kind,  however,  occurred.  The  Crows  were  probably  daunted 
by  the  resolute  though  quiet  demeanor  of  the  white  men,  and 
the  constant  vigilance  and  armed  preparations  which  they 
maintained ;  and  Rose,  if  he  really  still  harbored  his  knavish 
designs,  must  have  perceived  that  they  were  suspected,  and,  if 
attempted  to  be  carried  into  effect,  might  bring  ruin  on  his 
own  head. 

The  next  morning,  bright  and  early,  Mr.  Hunt  proposed  to 
resume  his  journeying.  He  took  a  ceremonious  leave  of  the 
Crow  chieftain  and  his  vagabond  warriors,  and  according  to 
previous  arrangements,  consigned  to  their  cherishing  friend 
ship  and  fraternal  adoption  their  worthy  confederate,  Rose ; 
who,  having  figured  among  the  water  pirates  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  was  well  fitted  to  rise  to  distinction  among  the  land 
pirates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

It  is  proper  to  add  that  the  ruffian  was  well  received  among 
the  tribe,  and  appeared  to  be  perfectly  satisfied  with  the 
compromise  he  had  made,  feeling  much  more  at  his  ease 
among  savages  than  among  white  men.  It  is  outcasts  from 
civilization,  fugitives  from  justice,  and  heartless  desperadoes 
of  this  kind,  who  sow  the  seeds  of  enmity  and  bitterness 


194  ASTORIA. 

among  the  unfortunate  tribes  of  the  frontier.  There  is  no 
enemy  so  implacable  against  a  country  or  a  community  as  one 
of  its  own  people  who  has  rendered  himself  an  alien  by  his 
crimes. 

Right  glad  to  be  relieved  from  this  treacherous  companion, 
Mr.  Hunt  pursued  his  course  along  the  skirts  of  the  mountain, 
in  a  southern  direction,  seeking  for  some  practicable  defile  by 
Avhich  he  might  pass  through  it;  none  such  presented,  how 
ever,  in  the  course  of  fifteen  miles,  and  he  encamped  on  a 
small  stream,  still  on  the  outskirts.  The  green  meadows 
which  border  these  mountain  streams  are  generally  well 
stocked  with  game,  and  the  hunters  soon  killed  several  fat 
elks,  which  supplied  the  camp  with  fresh  meat.  In  the  even 
ing  the  travellers  were  surprised  by  an  unwelcome  visit  from 
several  Crows  belonging  to  a  different  band  from  that  which 
they  had  recently  left,  and  who  said  their  camp  was  among 
the  mountains.  The  consciousness  of  being  environed  by  such 
dangerous  neighbors,  and  of  being  still  within  the  range  of 
Rose  and  his  fellow  ruffians,  obliged  the  party  to  be  continu 
ally  on  the  alert,  and  to  maintain  weary  vigils  throughout  the 
night,  lest  they  should  be  robbed  of  their  horses. 

On  the  third  of  September,  finding  that  the  mountain  still 
stretched  onward,  presenting  a  continued  barrier,  they  en 
deavored  to  force  a  passage  to  the  westward,  but  soon  became 
entangled  among  rocks  and  precipices  which  set  all  their 
efforts  at  defiance.  The  mountain  seemed,  for  the  most  part, 
rugged,  bare,  and  sterile;  yet  here  and  there  it  was  clothed 
with  pines  and  with  shrubs  and  flowering  plants,  some  of 
which  were  in  bloom.  In  toiling  among  these  weary  places 
their  thirst  became  excessive,  for  no  water  was  to  be  met  with. 
Numbers  of  the  men  wandered  off  into  rocky  dells  and  ravines 
in  hopes  of  finding  some  brook  or  fountain ;  some  of  whom  lost 
their  way  and  did  not  rejoin  the  main  party. 

After  half  a  day  of  painful  and  fruitless  scrambling,  Mr. 
Hunt  gave  up  the  attempt  to  penetrate  in  this  direction,  and 
returning  to  the  little  stream  on  the  skirts  of  the  mountain, 
pitched  his  tents  within  six  miles  of  his  encampment  of  the 
preceding  night.  He  now  ordered  that  signals  should  be  made 
for  the  stragglers  in  quest  of  water,  but  the  night  passed  away 
without  their  return. 

The  next  morning,  to  their  surprise,  Rose  made  his  appear 
ance  at  the  camp,  accompanied  by  some  of  his  Crow  associates. 
His  unwelcome  visit  revived  their  suspicions;  but  he  an- 


ASTORIA.  195 

nounced  himself  as  a  messenger  of  good  will  from  the  chief, 
who,  finding  they  had  taken  a  wrong  road,  had  sent  Rose  and 
his  companions  to  guide  them  to  a  nearer  and  better  one  across 
the  mountain. 

Having  no  choice,  being  themselves  utterly  at  fault,  they  set 
out  under  this  questionable  escort.  They  had  not  gone  far  be 
fore  they  fell  in  with  the  whole  party  of  Crows,  who,  they  now 
found,  were  going  the  same  road  with  themselves.  The  two 
cavalcades  of  white  and  red  men,  therefore,  pushed  on  to 
gether,  and  presented  a  wild  and  picturesque  spectacle,  as, 
equipped  with  various  weapons  and  in  various  garbs,  with 
trains  of  pack-horses,  they  wound  in  long  lines  through  the 
rugged  defiles,  and  up  and  down  the  crags  and  steeps  of  the 
mountain. 

The  travellers  had  again  an  opportunity  to  see  and  admire 
the  equestrian  habitudes  and  address  of  this  hard-riding  tribe. 
They  were  all  mounted,  man,  woman,  and  child,  for  the  Crows 
have  horses  in  abundance,  so  that  no  one  goes  on  foot.  The 
children  are  perfect  imps  on  horseback.  Among  them  was 
one  so  young  that  he  could  not  yet  speak.  He  was  tied  on  a 
colt  of  two  years  old,  but  managed  the  reins  as  if  by  instinct, 
and  plied  the  whip  with  true  Indian  prodigality.  Mr.  Hunt 
inquired  the  age  of  this  infant  jockey,  and  was  answered  that 
uhe  had  seen  two  winters." 

This  is  almost  realizing  the  fable  of  the  centaurs ;  nor  can 
we  wonder  at  the  equestrian  adroitness  of  these  savages,  who 
are  thus  in  a  manner  cradled  in  the  saddle,  and  become  in  in 
fancy  almost  identified  with  the  animal  they  bestride. 

The  mountain  defiles  were  exceedingly  rough  and  broken, 
and  the  travelling  painful  to  the  burdened  horses.  The  party, 
therefore,  proceeded  but  slowly,  and  were  gradually  left  be 
hind  by  the  band  of  Crows,  who  had  taken  the  lead.  It  is 
more  than  probable  that  Mr.  Hunt  loitered  in  his  course,  to  get 
rid  of  such  doubtful  fellow-travellers.  Certain  it  is  that  he  felt 
a  sensation  of  relief  as  he  saw  the  whole  crew,  the  renegade 
Rose  and  all,  disappear  among  the  windings  of  the  mountain, 
and  heard  the  last  yelp  of  the  savages  die  away  in  the  dis 
tance. 

When  they  were  fairly  out  of  sight,  and  out  of  hearing,  he 
encamped  on  the  head  waters  of  the  little  stream  of  the  pre 
ceding  day,  having  come  about  sixteen  miles.  Here  he  re 
mained  all  the  succeeding  day.  as  well  to  give  time  for  the 
Crows  to  get  in  the  advance,  as  for  the  stragglers,  who  had 


196  ASTORIA. 

wandered  away  in  quest  of  water  two  days  previously,  to  re 
join  the  camp.  Indeed,  considerable  uneasiness  began  to  be 
felt  concerning  these  men,  lest  they  should  become  utterly  be 
wildered  in  the  defiles  of  the  mountains,  or  should  fall  into  the 
hands  of  some  marauding  band  of  savages.  Some  of  the  most 
experienced  hunters  were  sent  in  search  of  them,  others,  in  the 
mean  time,  employed  themselves  in  hunting.  The  narrow 
valley  in  which  they  encamped,  being  watered  by  a  running 
stream,  yielded  fresh  pasturage,  and,  though  in  the  heart  of 
the  Big  Horn  Mountains,  was  well  stocked  with  buffalo. 
Several  of  these  were  killed,  as  also  a  grizzly  bear.  In  the 
evening,  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  parties,  the  stragglers  made 
their  appearance,  and  provisions  being  in  abundance,  there 
was  hearty  good  cheer  in  the  camp. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

RESUMING  their  course  on  the  following  morning,  Mr.  Hunt 
and  his  companions  continued  on  westward  through  a  rugged 
region  of  hills  and  rocks,  but  diversified  in  many  places  by 
grassy  little  glens,  with  springs  of  water,  bright  sparkling 
brooks,  clumps  of  pine  trees,  and  a  profusion  of  flowering 
plants,  which  were  in  full  bloom,  although  the  weather  was 
frosty.  These  beautiful  and  verdant  recesses,  running  through 
and  softening  the  rugged  mountains,  were  cheering  and  re 
freshing  to  the  way-worn  travellers. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning,  as  they  were  entangled  in  a 
defile,  they  beheld  a  small  band  of  savages,  as  wild  looking  as 
the  surrounding  scenery,  who  reconnoitred  them  warily  from 
the  rocks  before  they  ventured  to  advance.  Some  of  them 
were  mounted  on  horses  rudely  caparisoned,  with  bridles  or 
halters  of  buffalo  hide,  one  end  trailing  after  them  on  the 
ground.  They  proved  to  be  a  mixed  party  of  Flatheads  and 
Shoshonies,  or  Snakes ;  and  as  these  tribes  will  be  frequently 
mentioned  in  the  course  of  this  work,  we  shall  give  a  few  in 
troductory  particulars  concerning  them. 

The  Flatheads  in  question  are  not  to  be  confounded  with 
those  of  the  name  who  dwell  about  the  lower  waters  of  the 
Columbia;  neither  do  they  flatten  their  heads  as  the  "others  do. 
They  inhabit  the  banks  of  a  river  on  the  west  side  of  the 


ASTORIA.  197 

mountains,  and  are  described  as  simpb,  honest,  and  hospita 
ble.  Like  all  people  of  similar  character,  whether  civilized 
or  savage,  they  are  prone  to  be  imposed  upon ;  and  are  espe 
cially  maltreated  by  the  ruthless  Blackfeet,  who  harass  them 
in  their  villages,  steal  their  horses  by  night,  or  openly  carry 
them  off  in  the  face  of  day,  without  provoking  pursuit  or  re 
taliation. 

The  Shoshonies  are  a  branch  of  the  once  powerful  and  pros 
perous  tribe  of  the  Snakes,  who  possessed  a  glorious  hunting 
country  about  the  upper  forks  of  the  Missouri,  abounding  in 
beaver  and  buffalo.  Their  hunting-ground  was  occasionally 
invaded  by  the  Blackfeet,  but  the  Snakes  battled  bravely  for 
their  domains,  and  a  long  and  bloody  feud  existed,  with  varia 
ble  success.  At  length  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  extending 
their  trade  into  the  interior,  had  dealings  with  the  Blackfeet, 
who  were  nearest  to  them,  and  supplied  them  with  firearms. 
The  Snakes,  who  occasionally  traded  with  the  Spaniards,  en 
deavored,  but  in  vain,  to  obtain  similar  weapons ;  the  Spanish 
traders  wisely  refused  to  arm  them  so  formidably.  The  Black- 
feet  had  now  a  vast  advantage,  and  soon  dispossessed  the  poor 
Snakes  of  their  favorite  hunting-grounds,  their  land  of  plenty, 
and  drove  them  from  place  to  place,  until  they  were  fain  to 
take  refuge  in  the  wildest  and  most  desolate  recesses  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Even  here  they  are  subject  to  occasional 
visits  from  their  implacable  foes,  as  long  as  they  have  horses, 
or  any  other  property  to  tempt  the  plunderer.  Thus  by  de 
grees  the  Snakes  have  become  a  scattered,  broken-spirited, 
impoverished  people,  keeping  about  lonely  rivers  and  moun 
tain  streams,  and  subsisting  chiefly  upon  fish.  Such  of  them 
as  still  possess  horses,  and  occasionally  figure  as  hunters,  are 
called  Shoshonies ;  but  there  is  another  class,  the  most  abject 
and  forlorn,  who  are  called  Shuckers,  or  more  commonly  Dig 
gers  and  Root  Eaters.  These  are  a  shy,  secret,  solitary  race, 
who  keep  in  the  most  retired  parts  of  the  mountains,  lurking 
like  gnomes  in  caverns  and  clefts  of  the  rocks,  and  subsisting 
in  a  great  measure  on  the  roots  of  the  earth.  Sometimes,  in 
passing  through  a  solitary  mountain  valley,  the  traveller 
comes  perchance  upon  the  bleeding  carcass  of  a  deer  or  buffalo 
that  has  just  been  slain.  He  looks  round  in  vain  for  the 
hunter ;  the  whole  landscape  is  lifeless  and  deserted ;  at  length 
he  perceives  a  thread  of  smoke,  curling  up  from  among;  the  crags 
and  cliffs,  and,  scrambling  to  the  place,  finds  some  forlorn  and 
skulking  brood  of  Diggers,  terrified  at  being  discovered. 


198  ASTORIA, 

The  Shoshonics,  however,  who,  as  has  been  observed,  have 
still  "horse  to  ride  and  weapon  to  wear,"  are  somewhat  bolder 
in  their  spirit,  and  more  open  and  Avide  in  their  wanderings. 
In  the  autumn,  when  salmon  disappear  from  the  rivers,  and 
hunger  begins  to  pinch,  they  even  venture  down  into  their 
ancient  hunting-grounds,  to  make  a  foray  among  the  buffaloes. 
In  this  perilous  enterprise  they  are  occasionally  joined  by  the 
Flatheads,  the  persecutions  of  the  Blackfeet  having  produced 
a  close  alliance  and  co-operation  between  these  luckless  and 
maltreated  tribes.  Still,  notwithstanding  their  united  force, 
every  step  they  take  within  the  debatable  ground  is  taken  in 
fear  and  trembling,  and  with  the  utmost  precaution ;  and  an 
Indian  trader  assures  us  that  he  has  seen  at  least  five  hundred 
of  them,  armed  and  equipped  for  action,  and  keeping  watch 
upon  the  hill  tops,  while  about  fifty  were  hunting  in  the 
prairie.  Their  excursions  are  brief  and  hurried;  as  soon  as 
they  have  collected  and  jerked  sufficient  buffalo  meat  for 
winter  provisions,  they  pack  their  horses,  abandon  the  dan 
gerous  hunting  grounds,  and  hasten  back  to  the  mountains, 
happy  if  they  have  not  the  terrible  Blackfeet  rattling  after 
them. 

Such  a  confederate  band  of  Shoshonies  and  Flatheads  was 
the  one  met  by  our  travellers.  It  was  bound  on  a  visit  to  the 
Arapahoes,  a  tribe  inhabitkig  the  banks  of  the  Nebraska. 
They  were  armed  to  the  best  of  their  scanty  means,  and  some 
of  the  Shoshonies  had  bucklers  of  buffalo  hide,  adorned  with 
feathers  and  leathern  fringes,  and  which  have  a  charmed 
virtue  in  their  eyes,  from  having  been  prepared,  with  mystic 
ceremonies,  by  their  conjurors. 

In  company  with  this  wandering  band  our  travellers  pro 
ceeded  all  day.  In  the  evening  they  encamped  near  to  each 
other  in  a  defile  of  the  mountains,  on  the  borders  of  a  stream 
running  north  and  falling  into  Big  Horn  River.  In  the  vicinity 
of  the  camp  they  found  gooseberries,  strawberries,  and  cur 
rants  in  great  abundance.  The  defile  bore  traces  of  having 
been  a  thoroughfare  for  countless  herds  of  buffaloes,  though 
not  one  was  to  be  seen.  The  hunters  succeeded  in  killing  an 
elk  and  several  black-tailed  deer. 

They  were  now  in  the  bosom  of  the  second  Big  Horn  ridge, 
with  another  lofty  and  snow-crowned  mountain  full  in  view  to 
the  west. .  Fifteen  miles  of  western  course  brought  them,  on 
the  following  day,  down  into  an  intervening  plain,  well  stocked 
with  buffalo.  Here  the  Snakes  and  Flatheads  joined  with  the 


ASTORIA.  ]y'J 

white  hunters  in  a  successful  hunt,  that  soon  filled  the  camp 
with  provisions. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  September  the  travellers  parted 
company  with  their  Indian  friends,  and  continued  on  their 
course  to  the  west.  A  march  of  thirty  miles  brought  them, 
in  the  evening,  to  the  banks  of  a  rapid  and  beautifuUy  clear 
stream  about  a  hundred  yards  wide.  It  is  the  north  fork  or 
branch  of  the  Big  Horn  River,  but  bears  its  peculiar  name  of 
the  Wind  River,  from  being  subject  in  the  winter  season  to  a 
continued  blast  which  sweeps  its  banks  and  prevents  the  snow 
from  lying  on  them.  This  blast  is  said  to  be  caused  by  a  nar 
row  gap  or  funnel  in  the  mountains,  through  which  the  river 
forces  its  way  between  perpendicular  precipices,  resembling 
cut  rocks. 

This  river  gives  its  name  to  a  whole  range  of  mountains, 
consisting  of  three  parallel  chains,  eighty  miles  in  length,  and 
about  twenty  or  twenty-five  broad.  One  of  its  peaks  is  prob 
ably  fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  being  one 
of  the  highest  of  the  Rocky  Sierra,  These  mountains  give 
rise,  not  merely  to  the  Wind  or  Big  Horn  River,  but  to  several 
branches  of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Missouri  on  the  east,  and 
of  the  Columbia  and  Colorado  on  the  west,  thus  dividing  the 
sources  of  these  mighty  streams. 

For  five  succeeding  days  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  continued 
up  the  course  of  the  Wind  River,  to  the  distance  of  about 
eighty  miles,  crossing  and  recrossing  it,  according  to  its  wind 
ings  and  the  nature  of  its  banks ;  sometimes  passing  through 
valleys,  at  other  times  scrambling  over  rocks  and  hills.  The 
country  in  general  was  destitute  of  trees,  but  they  passed 
through  groves  of  wormwood,  eight  and  ten  feet  in  height, 
which  they  used  occasionally  for  fuel,  and  they  met  with  large 
quantities  of  wild  flax. 

The  mountains  were  destitute  of  game ;  they  came  in  sight 
of  two  grizzly  bears,  but  could  not  get  near  enough  for  a  shot ; 
provisions,  therefore,  began  to  be  scanty.  They  saw  largo 
flights  of  the  kind  of  thrush  commonly  called  the  robin,  and 
many  smaller  birds  of  migratory  species ;  but  the  hills  in  gene 
ral  appeared  lonely  and  with  few  signs  of  animal  life.  On  the 
evening  of  the  14th  of  September  they  encamped  on  the  forks 
of  the  Wind  or  Big  Horn  River.  The  largest  of  these  forks 
came  from  the  range  of  Wind  River  Mountains. 

The  hunters  who  served  as  guides  to  the  party  in  this  part  of 
their  route  had  assured  Mr.  Hwit  that,  by  following  up  Wind 


200  ASTORIA. 

Eiver,  and  crossing  a  single  mountain  ridge,  he  would  come 
upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia.  The  scarcity  of  game, 
however,  which  already  had  been  felt  to  a  pinching  degree,  and 
which  threatened  them  with  famine  among  the  sterile  heights 
which  lay  before  them,  admonished  them  to  change  their 
course.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  to  make  for  a  stream, 
which,  they  were  informed,  passed  the  neighboring  mountains 
to  the  south  of  west,  on  the  grassy  banks  of  which  it  was  prob 
able  they  would  meet  with  buffalo.  Accordingly,  about  three 
o'clock  on  the  following  day,  meeting  with  a  beaten  Indian 
road  which  led  in  the  proper  direction,  they  struck  into  it, 
turning  their  backs  upon  Wind  Eiver. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  they  came  to  a  height  that  com 
manded  an  almost  boundless  prospect.  Here  one  of  the  guides 
paused,  and,  after  considering  the  vast  landscape  attentively, 
pointed  to  three  mountain  peaks  glistening  with  snow,  which 
rose,  he  said,  above  a  fork  of  Columbia  River.  They  were 
hailed  by  the  travellers  with  that  joy  with  which  a  beacon  on 
a  sea-shore  is  hailed  by  mariners  after  a  long  and  dangerous 
voyage.  It  is  true  there  was  many  a  weary  league  to  be  trav 
ersed  before  they  should  reach  these  landmarks,  for,  allowing 
for  their  evident  height  and  the  extreme  transparency  of  the 
atmosphere,  they  could  not  be  much  less  than  a  hundred  miles 
distant.  Even  after  reaching  them  there  would  yet  remain 
hundreds  of  miles  of  their  journey  to  be  accomplished.  All 
these  matters  were  forgotten  in  the  joy  at  seeing  the  first  land 
marks  of  the  Columbia,  that  river  which  formed  the  bourne  of 
the  expedition.  These  remarkable  peaks  are  known  to  some 
travellers  as  the  Tetons ;  as  they  had  been  guiding  points,  for 
many  days,  to  Mr.  Hunt,  he  gave  them  the  name  of  the  Pilot 
Knobs. 

The  travellers  continued  their  course  to  the  south  of  west  for 
about  forty  miles,  through  a  region  so  elevated  that  patches  of 
snow  lay  on  the  highest  summits,  and  on  the  northern  declivi 
ties.  At  length  they  came  to  the  desired  stream,  the  object  of 
their  search,  the  waters  of  which  flowed  to  the  west.  It  was, 
in  fact,  a  branch  of  the  Colorado,  which  falls  into  the  gulf  of 
California,  and  had  received  from  the  hunters  the  name  of 
Spanish  River,  from  information  given  by  the  Indians  that 
Spaniards  resided  upon  its  lower  waters. 

The  aspect  of  this  river  and  its  vicinity  was  cheering  to  the 
way-worn  and  hungry  travellers.  Its  banks  were  green,  and 
there  were  grassy  valleys  running  from  it  in  various  direc- 


ASTORIA.  201 

tions,  into  the  heart  of  the  rugged  mountains,  wilh  herds  of 
buffalo  quietly  grazing.  The  hunters  sallied  forth  with  keen 
alacrity,  and  soon  returned  laden  with  provisions. 

In  this  part  of  the  mountains  Mr.  Hunt  met  with  three  dif 
ferent  kinds  of  gooseberries.  The  common  purple,  on  a  low 
and  very  thorny  bush;  a  yellow  kind,  of  an  excellent  flavor, 
crowing  on  a  stock  free  from  thorns ;  and  a  deep  purple,  of  the 
size  and  taste  of  our  winter  grape,  with  a  thorny  stalk.  There 
were  also  three  kinds  of  currants,  one  very  large  and  well 
tasted,  of  a  purple  color,  and  growing  on  a  bush  eight  or  nine 
feet  high.  Another  of  a  yellow  color,  and  of  tl\e  size  and  taste 
of  the  large  red  currant,  the  bush  four  or  five  feet  high;  and 
the  third  a  beautiful  scarlet,  resembling  the  strawberry  in 
sweetness,  though  rather  insipid,  and  growing  on  a  low  bush. 

On  the  17th  they  continued  down  the  course  of  the  river, 
making  fifteen  miles  to  the  southwest.  The  river  abounded 
with  geese  and  ducks,  and  there  were  signs  of  its  being  inhab 
ited  by  beaver  and  otters ;  indeed  they  were  now  approaching 
regions  where  these  animals,  the  great  objects  of  the  fur  trade, 
are  said  to  abound.  They  encamped  for  the  night  opposite  the 
end  of  a  mountain  in  the  west,  which  was  probably  the  last 
chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  On  the  following  morning 
they  abandoned  the  main  course  of  Spanish  River,  and  taking 
a  northwest  direction  for  eight  miles,  canae  upon  one  of  its  little 
tributaries,  issuing  out  of  the  bosom  of  the  mountains,  and 
running  through  green  meadows,  yielding  pasturage  to  herds 
of  buffalo.  As  these  were  probably  the  last  of  that  animal 
they  would  meet  with,  they  encamped  on  the  grassy  banks  of 
the  river,  determining  to  spend  several  days  in  hunting,  so  as 
to  be  able  to  jerk  sufficient  meat  to  supply  them  until  they 
should  reach  the  waters  of  the  Columbia,  where  they  trusted 
to  find  fish  enough  for  their  support.  A  little  repose,  too,  was 
necessary  for  both  men  and  horses,  after  their  rugged  and  in 
cessant  marching;  having  in  the  course  of  the  last  seventeen 
days  traversed  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  of  rough,  and  in 
many  parts  sterile  mountain  country. 


202  ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

FIVE  days  were  passed  by  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  in 
the  fresh  meadows  watered  by  the  bright  little  mountain 
stream.  The  hunters  made  great  havoc  among  the  buffaloes, 
and  brought  in  quantities  of  meat ;  the  voyageurs  busied  them 
selves  about  the  fires,  roasting  and  stewing  for  present  pur 
poses,  or  drying  provisions  for  the  journey ;  the  pack-horses, 
eased  of  their  burdens,  rolled  on  the  grass  or  grazed  at  large 
about  the  ample  pastures ;  those  of  the  party  who  had  no  call 
upon  their  services  indulged  in  the  luxury  of  perfect  relaxav 
tion,  and  the  camp  presented  a  picture  of  rude  feasting  and 
revelry,  of  mingled  bustle  and  repose,  characteristic  of  a  halt 
in  a  fine  hunting  country.  In  the  course  of  one  of  their  excur 
sions  some  of  the  men  came  in  sight  of  a  small  party  of  In 
dians,  who  instantly  fled  in  great  apparent  consternation.  They 
immediately  returned  to  camp  with  the  intelligence;  upon 
which  Mr.  Hunt  and  four  others  flung  themselves  upon  their 
horses  and  sallied  forth  to  reconnoitre.  After  riding  for  about 
eight  miles  they  came  upon  a  wild  mountain  scene.  A  lonely 
green  valley  stretched  before  them,  surrounded  by  rugged 
heights.  A  herd  of  buffalo  were  careering  madly  through  it, 
with  a  troop  of  savage  horsemen  in  full  chase,  plying  them 
with  their  bows  and  arrows.  The  appearance  of  Mr.  Hunt  and 
his  companions  put  an  abrupt  end  to  the  hunt;  the  buffalo 
scuttled  off  in  one  direction,  while  the  Indians  plied  their  lashes 
and  galloped  off  in  another,  as  fast  as  their  steeds  could  carry 
them.  Mr.  Hunt  gave  chase;  there  was  a  sharp  scamper, 
though  of  short  continuance.  Two  young  Indians,  who  were 
indifferently  mounted,  were  soon  overtaken.  They  were  ter 
ribly  frightened,  and  evidently  gave  themselves  up  for  lost. 
By  degrees  their  fears  were  allayed  by  kind  treatment;  but 
they  continued  to  regard  the  strangers  with  a  mixture  of  awe 
and  wonder ;  for  it  was  the  first  time  in  their  lives  they  had 
ever  seen  a  white  man. 

They  belonged  to  a  party  of  Snakes  who  had  come  across  the 
mountains  on  their  autumnal  hunting  excursion  to  provide 
buffalo  meat  for  the  winter.  Being  persuaded  of  the  peacea 
ble  intentions  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions,  they  willingly 


ASTORIA.  203 

conducted  them  to  their  camp.  It  was  pitched  in  a  narrow 
valley  on  the  margin  of  a  stream.  The  tents  were  of  dressed 
skins,  some  of  them  fantastically  painted,  with  horses  grazing 
about  them.  The  approach  of  the  party  caused  a  transient 
alarm  in  the  camp,  for  these  poor  Indians  were  ever  on  the  look 
out  for  cruel  foes.  No  sooner,  however,  did  they  recognize  the 
garb  and  complexion  of  their  visitors  than  their  apprehensions 
were  changed  into  joy;  for  some  of  them  had  dealt  with  white 
men,  and  knew  them  to  be  friendly,  and  to  abound  with  arti 
cles  of  singular  value.  They  welcomed  them,  therefore,  to 
their  tents,  set  food  before  them,  and  entertained  them  to  the 
best  of  their  power. 

They  had  been  successful  in  their  hunt,  and  their  camp  was 
full  of  jerked  buffalo  meat,  all  of  the  choicest  kind,  and  ex 
tremely  fat.  Mr.  Hunt  purchased  enough  of  them,  in  addition 
to  what  had  been  killed  and  cured  by  his  own  hunters,  to  load 
all  the  horses  excepting  those  reserved  for  the  partners  and  the 
wife  of  Pierre  Dorion.  He  found  also  a  few  beaver  skins  in 
their  camp,  for  which  he  paid  liberally,  as  an  inducement  to 
them  to  hunt  for  more,  informing  them  that  some  of  his  party 
intended  to  live  among  the  mountains,  and  trade  with  the 
native  hunters  for  their  peltries.  The  poor  Snakes  soon  com 
prehended  the  advantages  thus  held  out  to  them,  and  promised 
to  exert  themselves  to  procure  a  quantity  of  beaver  skins  for 
future  traffic. 

Being  now  well  supplied  with  provisions,  Mr.  Hunt  broke  up 
his  encampment  on  the  24th  of  September,  and  continued  on 
to  the  west.  A  march  of  fifteen  miles,  over  a  mountain  ridge, 
brought  them  to  a  stream  about  fifty  feet  in  width,  which  Ho- 
back,  one  of  their  guides,  who  had  trapped  about  the  neigh 
borhood  when  in  the  service  of  Mr.  Henry,  recognized  for  one 
of  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia.  The  travellers  hailed  it 
with  delight,  as  the  first  stream  they  had  encountered  tending 
toward  their  point  of  destination.  They  kept  along  it  for  two 
days,  during  which,  from  the  contribution  of  many  rills  and 
brooks,  it  gradually  swelled  into  a  small  river.  As  it  mean 
dered  among  rocks  and  precipices,  they  were  frequently 
obliged  to  ford  it,  and  such  was  its  rapidity  that  the  men  were 
often  in  danger  of  being  swept  away.  Sometimes  the  banks 
advanced  so  close  upon  the  river  that  they  were  obliged  to 
scramble  up  and  down  their  rugged  promontories,  or  to  skirt 
along  their  bases  where  there  was  scarce  a  foothold.  Their 
horses  had  dangerous  falls  in  some  of  these  passes.  One  of  them 


204  ASTORIA. 

rolled,  with  his  load,  nearly  two  hundred  feet  down  hill,  into 
the  river,  but  without  receiving  any  injury.  At  length  they 
emerged  from  these  stupendous  defiles,  and  continued  for  sev 
eral  miles  along  the  bank  of  Hoback's  River,  through  one  of 
the  stern  mountain  valleys.  Here  it  was  joined  by  a  river  of 
greater  magnitude  and  swifter  current,  and  their  united  wa 
ters  swept  off  through  the  valley  in  one  impetuous  stream, 
which,  from  its  rapidity  and  turbulence,  had  received  the 
name  of  Mad  Paver.  At  the  confluence  of  these  streams  the 
travellers  encamped.  An  important  point  in  their  arduous  jour 
ney  had  been  attained,  a  few  miles  from  their  camp  rose  the 
three  vast  snowy  peaks  called  the  Tetons,  or  the  Pilot  Knobs, 
the  g.reat  landmarks  of  the  Columbia,  by  which  they  had  shaped 
their  course  through  this  mountain  wilderness.  By  their  feet 
flowed  the  rapid  current  of  Mad  River,  a  stream  ample  enough  to 
admit  of  the  navigation  of  canoes,  and  down  which  they  might 
possibly  be  able  to  steer  their  course  to  the  main  body  of  the 
Columbia.  The  Canadian  voyageurs  rejoiced  at  the  idea  of 
once  more  launching  themselves  upon  their  favorite  element : 
of  exchanging  their  horses  for  canoes,  and  of  gliding  down  the 
bosoms  of  rivers,  instead  of  scrambling  over  the  backs  of 
mountains.  Others  of  the  party,  also,  inexperienced  in  this 
kind  of  travelling,  considered  their  toils  and  troubles  as  draw 
ing  to  a  close.  They  had  conquered  the  chief  difficulties  of 
this  great  rocky  barrier,  and  now  flattered  themselves  with 
the  hope  of  an  easy  downward  course  for  the  rest  of  their 
journey.  Little  did  they  dream  of  the  hardships  and  perils  by 
land  and  water,  which  were  yet  to  be  encountered  in  the 
frightful  wilderness  that  intervened  between  them  and  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific ! 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

ON  the  banks  of  Mad  River  Mr.  Hunt  held  a  consultation 
with  the  ether  partners  as  to  their  future  movements.  The 
wild  and  impetuous  current  of  the  river  rendered  him  doubt 
ful  whether  it  might  not  abound  with  impediments  lower 
down,  sufficient  to  render  the  navigation  of  it  slow  and  peril 
ous,  if  not  impracticable.  The  hunters  who  had  acted  as 
guides  knew  nothing  of  the  character  of  the  river  below ;  what 
rocks,  and  shoals,  and  rapids  might  obstruct  it,  or  through 


ASTORIA.  205 

what  mountains  and  deserts  it  might  pass.  Should  they  then 
abandon  their  horses,  cast  themselves  loose  in  fragile  barks 
upon  this  wild,  doubtful,  and  unknown  river ;  or  should  they 
continue  their  more  toilsome  and  tedious,  but  perhaps  more 
certain  wayfaring  by  land? 

The  vote,  as  might  have  been  expected,  was  almost  unani 
mous  for  embarkation ;  for  when  men  are  in  difficulties  every 
change  seems  to  be  for  the  better.  The  difficulty  now  was  to 
find  timber  of  sufficient  size  for  the  construction  of  canoes,  the 
trees  of  these  high  mountain  regions  being  chiefly  a  scrubbed 
growth  of  pines  and  cedars,  aspens,  haws,  and  service-berries, 
and  a  small  kind  of  cotton-tree,  with  a  leaf  resembling  that  of 
the  willow.  There  was  a  species  of  large  fir,  but  so  full  of 
knots  as  to  endanger  the  axe  in  hewing  it.  After  searching 
for  some  time,  a  growth  of  timber,  of  sufficient  size,  was 
found  lower  down  the  river,  whereupon  the  encampment  was 
moved  to  the  vicinity. 

The  men  were  now  set  to  work  to  fell  trees,  and  the  moun 
tains  echoed  to  the  unwonted  sound  of  their  axes.  While  pre 
parations  were  thus  going  on  for  a  voyage  down  the  river,  Mr. 
Hunt,  who  still  entertained  doubts  of  its  practicability,  dis 
patched  an  exploring  party,  consisting  of  John  Eeed,  the  clerk, 
John  Day,  the  hunter,  and  Pierre  Dorion,  the  interpreter,  with 
orders  to  proceed  several  days'  march  along  the  stream,  and 
notice  its  course  and  character. 

After  their  departure  Mr.  Hunt  turned  his  thoughts  to  an 
other  object  of  importance.  He  had  now  arrived  at  the  head 
waters  of  the  Columbia,  which  were  among  the  main  points 
embraced  by  the  enterprise  of  Mr.  Astor.  These  upper  streams 
were  reputed  to  abound  in  beaver,  and  had  as  yet  been  unmo 
lested  by  the  white  trapper.  The  numerous  signs  of  beaver 
met  with  during  the  recent  search  for  timber  gave  evidence 
that  the  neighborhood  was  a  good  "trapping  ground."  Here 
then  it  was  proper  to  begin  to  cast  loose  those  leashes  of  hardy 
trappers,  that  are  detached  from  trading  parties,  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  wilderness.  The  men  detached  in  the  present  in 
stance  were  Alexander  Carson,  Louis  St.  Michel,  Pierre  Detaye, 
and  Pierre  Delaunay.  Trappers  generally  go  in  pairs,  that 
they  may  assist,  protect,  and  comfort  each  other  in  their  lonely 
and  perilous  occupations.  Thus  Carson  and  St.  Michel  formed 
one  couple,  and  Detaye  and  Delaunay  another.  They  were 
fitted  out  with  traps,  arms,  ammunition,  horses,  and  every 
other  req  aisite,  and  were  to  trap  upon  the  upper  part  of  Mad 


206  ASTORIA. 

River,  and  upon  the  neighboring  streams  of  the  mountains 
This  would  probably  occupy  them  for  some  months;  and 
when  they  should  have  collected  a  sufficient  quantity  of  pel 
tries,  they  were  to  pack  them  upon  their  horses  and  make  the 
best  of  their  way  to  the  mouth  of  Columbia  River,  or  to  any 
intermediate  post  which  might  be  established  by  the  company. 
They  took  leave  of  their  comrades  and  started  off  on  their 
several  courses  with  stout  hearts  and  cheerful  countenances ; 
though  these  lonely  cruisiugs  into  a  wild  and  hostile  wilder 
ness  seem  to  the  uninitiated  equivalent  to  being  cast  adrift  in 
the  ship's  yawl  in  the  midst  of  the  ocean. 

Of  the  perils  that  attend  the  lonely  trapper,  the  reader  will 
have  sufficient  proof,  when  he  comes,  in  the  after  part  of  this 
work,  to  learn  the  hard  fortunes  of  these  poor  fellows  in  the 
course  of  their  wild  peregrinations. 

The  trappers  had  not  long  departed  when  two  Snake  Indians 
wandered  into  the  camp.  When  they  perceived  that  the 
strangers  were  fabricating  canoes,  they  shook  their  heads  and 
gave  them  to  understand  that  the  river  was  not  navigable. 
Their  information,  however,  was  scoffed  at  by  some  of  the 
party,  who  were  obstinately  bent  on  embarkation,  but  was 
confirmed  by  the  exploring  party,  who  returned  after  several 
days'  absence.  They  had  kept  along  the  river  with  great  diffi 
culty  for  two  days,  and  found  it  a  narrow,  crooked,  turbulent 
stream,  confined  in  a  rocky  channel,  with  many  rapids,  and 
occasionally  overhung  with  precipices.  From  the  summit  of 
one  of  these  they  had  caught  a  bird's-eye  view  of  its  boisterous 
career,  for  a  great  distance,  through  the  heart  of  the  mountain, 
with  impending  rocks  and  cliffs.  Satisfied  from  this  view  that 
it  was  useless  to  follow  its  course  either  by  land  or  water,  they 
had  given  up  all  further  investigation. 

These  concurring  reports  determined  Mr.  Hunt  to  abandon 
Mad  River,  and  seek  some  more  navigable  stream.  This  de 
termination  was  concurred  in  by  all  his  associates  excepting 
Mr.  Miller,  who  had  become  impatient  of  the  fatigue  of  land 
travel,  and  was  for  immediate  embarkation  at  all  hazards. 
This  gentleman  had  been  in  a  gloomy  and  irritated  state  of 
mind  for  some  time  past,  being  troubled  with  a  bodily  malady 
that  rendered  travelling  on  horseback  extremely  irksome  to 
him,  and  being,  moreover,  discontented  with  having  a  smaller 
share  in  the  expedition  than  his  comrades.  His  unreasonable 
objections  to  a  further  march  by  land  were  overruled,  and  the 
party  prepared  to  decamp. 


ASTORIA.  2(_>7 

Robinson,  Hoback,  and  Rezner.  the  three  hunters  who  had 
hitherto  served  as  guides  among  uhe  mountains,  now  stepped 
forward,  and  advised  Mr.  Hunt  to  make  for  the  post  estab 
lished  during  the  preceding  year  by  Mr.  Henry,  of  the  Missouri 
Fur  Company.  They  had  been  with  Mr.  Henry,  and  as  far  as 
they  could  judge  by  the  neighboring  landmarks,  his  post  could 
not  be  very  far  off.  They  presumed  there  could  be  but  one 
intervening  ridge  of  mountains,  which  might  be  passed  with 
out  any  great  difficulty.  Henry's  post,  or  fort,  was  on  an 
upper  branch  of  the  Columbia,  down  which  they  made  no 
doubt  it  would  be  easy  to  navigate  in  canoes. 

The  two  Snake  Indians  being  questioned  in  the  matter,  showed 
a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  situation  of  the  post,  and  offered, 
with  great  alacrity,  to  guide  them  to  the  place.  Their  offer 
was  accepted,  greatly  to  the  displeasure  of  Mr.  Miller,  who 
seemed  obstinately  bent  upon  braving  the  perils  of  Mad  River. 

The  weather  for  a  few  days  past  had  been  stormy,  with  rain 
and  sleet.  The  Rocky  Mountains  are  subject  to  tempestuous 
winds  from  the  west ;  these,  sometimes,  come  in  flaws  or  cur 
rents,  making  a  path  through  the  forests  many  yards  in  width, 
and  whirling  off  trunks  and  branches  to  a  great  distance.  The 
present  storm  subsided  on  the  third  of  October,  leaving  all  the 
surrounding  heights  covered  with  snow;  for  while  rain  had 
fallen  in  the  valley,  it  had  snowed  on  the  hill  tops, 

On  the  4th  they  broke  up  their  encampment  and  crossed  the 
river,  the  water  coming  up  to  the  girths  of  their  horses.  After 
travelling  four  miles,  they  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  moun 
tain,  the  last,  as  the 5-  hoped,  which  they  should  have  to  traverse. 
Fonr  days  more  took  them  across  it,  and  over  several  plains, 
watered  by  beautiful  little  streams,  tributaries  of  Mad  River. 
Near  one  of  their  encampments  there  was  a  hot  spring  contin 
ually  emitting  a  cloud  of  vapor.  These  elevated  plains,  which 
give  a  peculiar  character  to  the  mountains,  are  frequented  by 
large  gangs  of  antelopes,  fleet  as  the  wind. 

On  the  evening  of  the  8th  of  October,  after  a  cold  wintry  day, 
with  gusts  oi  westerly  wind  and  flurries  of  snow,  they  arrived 
at  the  sought-for  post  of  Mr.  Henry.  Here  he  had  fixed  him 
self,  after  being  compelled  by  the  hostilities  of  the  Blackfeet  to 
abandon  the  upper  waters  of  the  Missouri.  The  post,  however, 
was  deserted,  for  Mr.  Henry  had  left  it,  in  the  course  of  the 
preceding  spring,  and,  as  it  afterward  appeared,  had  fallen  in 
with  Mr.  Lisa,  at  the  Arickara  village  on  the  Missouri,  some 
time  after  tbo  separation  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party. 


208  ASTORIA. 

The  weary  travellers  gladly  took  possession  of  the  deserted 
log  huts  which  had  formed  the  post,  and  which  stood  on  the 
bank  of  a  stream  upward  of  a  hundred  yards  wide,  on  which 
they  intended  to  embark.  There  being  plenty  of  suitable  tim 
ber  in  the  neighborhood,  Mr.  Hunt  immediately  proceeded  to 
construct  canoes.  As  he  would  have  to  leave  his  horses  and 
their  accoutrements  here,  he  determined  to  make  this  a  trad 
ing  post,  where  the  trappers  and  hunters,  to  be  distributed 
about  the  country,  might  repair ;  and  where  the  traders  might 
touch  on  their  way  through  the  mountains  to  and  from  the 
establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  He  informed 
the  two  Snake  Indians  of  this  determination,  and  engaged 
them  to  remain  in  that  neighborhood  and  take  care  of  the 
horses  until  the  white  men  should  return,  promising  them 
ample  rewards  for  their  fidelity.  It  may  seem  a  desperate 
chance  to  trust  to  the  faith  and  honesty  of  two  such  vaga 
bonds;  but,  as  the  horses  would  have,  at  all  events,  to  be 
abandoned,  and  would  otherwise  become  the  property  of  the 
first  vagrant  horde  that  should  encounter  them,  it  was  one 
chance  in  favor  of  their  being  regained. 

At  this  place  another  detachment  of  hunters  prepared  to 
separate  from  the  party  for  the  purpose  of  trapping  beaver. 
Three  of  these  had  already  been  in  this  neighborhood,  being 
the  veteran  Robinson  and  his  companions,  Hoback  and  Rez- 
ner,  who  had  accompanied  Mr.  Henry  across  the  mountains, 
and  who  had  been  picked  up  by  Mr.  Hunt  on  the  Missouri,  on 
their  way  home  to  Kentucky.  According  to  agreement  they 
were  fitted  out  with  horses,  traps,  ammunition,  and  every 
thing  requisite  for  their  undertaking,  and  were  to  bring  in  all 
the  peltries  they  should  collect,  either  to  this  trading  post  or  to 
the  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  Columbia  River.  Another 
hunter,  of  the  name  of  Cass,  was  associated  with  them  in 
their  enterprise.  It  is  in  this  way  that  small  knots  of  trappers 
and  hunters  are  distributed  about  the  wilderness  by  the  fur 
companies,  and,  like  cranos  and  bitterns,  haunt  its  solitary 
streams.  Robinson,  the  Kentuckian,  the  veteran  of  the 
"bloody  ground,"  who,  as  has  already  been  noted,  had  been 
scalped  by  the  Indians  in  his  younger  days,  was  the  leader  of 
this  little  band.  When  they  were  about  to  depart,  Mr.  Miller 
called  the  partners  together,  and  threw  up  his  share  in  the 
company,  declaring  his  intention  of  joining  the  party  of 
trappers. 

This  resolution  struck  every  one  with  astonishment.   Mr. 


ASTORIA.  209 

Miller  being  a  man  of  education  and  of  cultivated  habits,  and 
little  fitted  for  the  rude  life  of  a  hunter.  Besides,  the  pre 
carious  and  slender  profits  arising  from  such  a  life  were 
beneath  the  prospects  of  one  who  held  a  share  in  the  general 
enterprise.  Mr.  Hunt  was  especially  concerned  and  mortified 
at  his  determination,  as  it  was  through  his  advice  and  influence 
he  had  entered  into  the  concern.  He  endeavored,  therefore, 
to  dissuade  him  from  this  sudden  resolution ;  representing  its 
rashness,  and  the  hardships  and  perils  to  which  it  would  ex 
pose  him.  He  earnestly  advised  him,  however  he  might  feel 
dissatisfied  with  the  enterprise,  still  to  continue  on  in  com 
pany  until  they  should  reach  the  mouth  of  Columbia  River. 
There  they  would  meet  the  expedition  that  was  to  come  by 
sea ;  when,  should  he  still  feel  disposed  to  relinquish  the  under 
taking,  Mr.  Hunt  pledged  himself  to  furnish  him  a  passage 
home  in  one  of  the  vessels  belonging  to  the  company. 

To  all  this  Miller  replied  abruptly,  that  it  was  useless  to 
argue  with  him,  as  his  mind  was  made  up.  They  might  fur 
nish  him,  or  not,  as  they  pleased,  with  the  necessary  supplies, 
but  he  was  determined  to  part  company  here,  and  set  off  with 
the  trappers.  So  saying,  he  flung  out  of  their  presence  with 
out  vouchsafing  any  further  conversation. 

Much  as  this  wayward  conduct  gave  them  anxiety,  the 
partners  saw  it  was  in  vain  to  remonstrate.  Every  attention 
was  paid  to  fit  him  out  for  his  headstrong  undertaking.  He 
was  provided  with  four  horses  and  all  the  articles  he  required. 
The  two  Snakes  undertook  to  conduct  him  and  his  companions 
to  an  encampment  of  their  tribe,  lower  down  among  the  moun 
tains,  from  whom  they  would  receive  information  as  to  the 
best  trapping  grounds.  After  thus  guiding  them,  the  Snakes 
were  to  return  to  Fort  Henry,  as  the  new  trading  post  was 
called,  and  take  charge  of  the  horses  which  the  party  would 
leave  there,  of  which,  after  all  the  hunters  were  supplied, 
there  remained  seventy  -  seven.  These  matters  being  all 
arranged,  Mr.  Miller  set  out  with  his  companions,  under 
guidance  of  the  two  Snakes,  on  the  10th  of  October ;  and  much 
did  it  grieve  the  friends  of  that  gentleman  to  see  him  thus 
wantonly  casting  himself  loose  upon  savage  life.  How  he  and 
his  comrades  fared  in  the  wilderness,  and  how  the  Snakes 
acquitted  themselves  of  their  trust  respecting  the  horses,  will 
hereafter  appear  in  the  course  of  these  rambling  anecdotes. 


210  ASTOlilA. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

WHILE  the  canoes  were  in  preparation,  the  hunters  ranged 
about  the  neighborhood,  but  with  little  success.  Tracks  of 
buffaloes  were  to  be  seen  in  all  directions,  but  none  of  a  fresh 
date.  There  were  some  elk,  but  extremely  wild;  two  only 
were  killed.  Antelopes  were  likewise  seen,  but  too  shy  and 
fleet  to  be  approached.  A  few  beavers  were  taken  every  night, 
and  salmon  trout  of  a  small  size,  so  that  the  camp  had  princi 
pally  to  subsist  upon  dried  buffalo  meat. 

On  the  14th,  a  poor,  half -naked  Snake  Indian,  one  of  that- 
forlorn  caste  called  the  Shuckers,  or  Diggers,  made  his  appear 
ance  at  the  camp.  He  came  from  some  lurking-place  among 
the  rocks  and  cliffs,  and  presented  a  picture  of  that  famishing 
wretchedness  to  which  these  lonely  fugitives  among  the  moun 
tains  are  sometimes  reduced.  Having  received  wherewithal 
to  allay  his  hunger,  he  disappeared,  but  in  the  course  of  a  day 
or  two  returned  to  the  camp,  bringing  with  him  his  son,  a 
miserable  boy,  still  more  naked  and  forlorn  than  himself. 
Food  was  given  to  both;  they  skulked  about  the  camp  like 
hungry  hounds,  seeking  what  they  might  devour,  and  having 
gathered  up  the  feet  and  entrails  of  some  beavers  that  were 
lying  about,  slunk  off  with  them  to  their  den  among  the  rocks. 

By  the  18th  of  October  fifteen  canoes  were  completed,  and 
on  the  following  day  the  party  embarked  with  their  effects, 
leaving  their  horses  grazing  about  the  banks,  and  trusting  to 
the  honesty  of  the  two  Snakes,  and  some  special  turn  of  good 
luck  for  their  future  recovery. 

The  current  bore  them  along  at  a  rapid  rate ;  the  light  spirits 
of  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  which  had  occasionally  flagged 
upon  land,  rose  to  their  accustomed  buoyancy  on  finding 
themselves  again  upon  the  water.  They  wielded  their  paddles 
with  their  wonted  dexterity,  and  for  the  first  time  made  the 
mountains  echo  with  their  favorite  boat  songs. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  the  little  squadron  arrived  at  the 
confluence  of  Henry  and  Mad  Rivers,  which  thus  united, 
swelled  into  a  beautiful  stream  of  a  light  pea-green  color, 
navigable  for  boats  of  any  size,  and  which  from  the  place  of 
junction,  took  the  name  of  Snake  River,  a  stream  doomed  to 


ASTORIA. 

be  the  scene  of  much  disaster  to  the  travellers.  The  banks  were 
here  and  there  fringed  with  willow  thickets  and  small  cotton- 
wood  trees.  The  weather  was  cold,  and  it  snowed  all  day,  and 
great  flocks  of  ducks  and  geese,  sporting  in  the  water  or 
streaming  through  the  air,  gave  token  that  winter  was  at 
hand;  yet  the  hearts  of  the  travellers  were  light,  and,  as  they 
glided  down  the  little  river,  they  flattered  themselves  with  the 
hope  of  soon  reaching  the  Columbia.  After  making  thirty 
miles  in  a  southerly  direction,  they  encamped  for  the  night  in 
a  neighborhood  which  required  some  little  vigilance,  as  there 
were  recent  traces  of  grizzly  bears  among  the  thickets. 

On  the  following  day  the  river  increased  in  width  and 
beauty,  flowing  parallel  to  a  range  of  mountains  on  the  left, 
which  at  times  were  finely  reflected  in  its  light  green  waters. 
The  three  snowy  summits  of  the  Pilot  Knobs  or  Tetons  were 
still  seen  towering  in  the  distance.  After  pursuing  a  swift  but 
placid  course  for  twenty  miles,  the  current  began  to  foam  and 
brawl,  and  assume  the  wild  and  broken  character  common  to 
the  streams  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  fact  the  rivers 
which  flow  from  those  mountains  to  the  Pacific  are  essentially 
different  from  those  which  traverse  the  great  prairies  on  their 
eastern  declivities.  The  latter,  though  sometimes  boisterous, 
are  generally  free  from  obstructions,  and  easily  navigated ;  but 
the  rivers  to  the  west  of  the  mountains  descend  more  steeply 
and  impetuously,  and  are  continually  liable  to  cascades  and 
rapids.  The  latter  abounded  in  the  part  of  the  river  which  the 
travellers  were  now  descending.  Two  of  the  canoes  filled 
among  the  breakers ;  the  crews  were  saved,  but  much  of  the 
lading  was  lost  or  damaged,  and  one  of  the  canoes  drifted 
down  the  stream  and  was  broken  among  the  rocks. 

On  the  following  day,  October  21st,  they  made  but  a  short 
distance  when  they  came  to  a  dangerous  strait,  where  the  river 
was  compressed  for  nearly  half  a  mile  between  perpendicular 
rocks,  reducing  it  to  the  width  of  twenty  yards,  and  increasing 
its  violence.  Here  they  were  obliged  to  pass  the  canoes  down 
cautiously  by  a  line  from  the  impending  banks.  This  con 
sumed  a  great  part  of  a  day ;  and  after  they  had  re-embarked 
they  were  soon  again  impeded  by  rapids,  when  they  had  to 
unload  their  canoes  and  carry  them  and  their  cargoes  for  some 
distance  by  land.  It  is  at  these  places,  called  "portages," 
that  the  Canadian  voyageur  exhibits  his  most  valuable  quali 
ties,  carrying  heavy  burdens,  and  toiling  to  and  fro,  on  land 
and  in  t£ie  water,  over  rocks  and  precipices,  among  brakes  and 


212  ASTORIA. 

brambles,  not  only  without  a  murmur,  but  with  the  greatest 
cheerfulness  and  clacrity,  joking  and  laughing  and  singing 
scraps  of  old  French  ditties. 

The  spirits  of  the  party,  however,  which  had  been  elated  on 
first  varying  their  journeying  from  land  to  water,  had  now 
lost  some  of  their  buoyancy.  Everything  ahead  was  wrapped 
in  uncertainty.  They  knew  nothing  of  the  river  on  which 
they  were  floating.  It  had  never  been  navigated  by  a  white 
man,  nor  could  theif  meet  with  an  Indian  to  give  them  any  in 
formation  concerning  it.  It  kept  on  its  course  through  a  vast 
wilderness  of  silent  and  apparently  uninhabited  mountains, 
without  a  savage  wigwam  upon  its  banks,  or  bark  upon  its 
waters.  The  difficulties  and  perils  they  had  already  passed 
made  them  apprehend  others  before  them  that  might  effectu 
ally  bar  their  progress.  As  they  glided  onward,  however, 
they  regained  heart  and  hope.  The  current  continued  to  be 
strong;  but  it  was  steady,  and  though  they  met  with  frequent 
rapids,  none  of  them  were  bad.  Mountains  were  constantly  to 
be  seen  in  different  directions,  but  sometimes  the  swift  river 
glided  through  prairies,  and  was  bordered  by  small  cotton- 
wood  trees  and  willows.  These  prairies  at  certain  seasons  are 
ranged  by  migratory  herds  of  the  wide- wandering  buffalo,  the 
tracks  of  which,  though  not  of  recent  date,  were  frequently  to 
be  seen.  Here,  too,  were  to  be  found  the  prickly  pear,  or  In 
dian  fig,  a  plant  which  loves  a  more  southern  climate.  On  the 
land  were  large  flights  of  magpies  and  American  robins ;  whole 
fleets  of  ducks  and  geese  navigated  the  river,  or  flew  off  in 
long  streaming  files  at  the  approach  of  the  canoes ;  while  the 
frequent  establishments  of  the  painstaking  and  quiet-loving 
beaver  showed  that  the  solitude  of  these  waters  was  rarely  dis 
turbed,  even  by  the  all-pervading  savage. 

They  had  now  come  near  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles 
since  leaving  Fort  Henry,  yet  without  seeing  a  human  being 
or  a  human  habitation ;  a  wild  and  desert  solitude  extended 
on  either  side  of  the  river,  apparently  almost  destitute  of  ani 
mal  life.  At  length,  on  the  24th  of  October,  they  were  glad 
dened  by  the  sight  of  some  savage  tents,  and  hastened  to  land 
and  visit  them,  for  they  were  anxious  to  procure  information 
to  guide  them  on  their  route.  On  their  approach,  however, 
the  savages  fled  in  consternation.  They  proved  to  be  a  wan 
dering  band  of  Shoshonies.  In  their  tents  were  great  quan 
tities  of  small  fish  about  two  inches  long,  together  with  roots 
and  seeds,  or  grain,  which  they  were  drying  for  winter  pro- 


ASTORIA.  213 

visions.  They  appeared  to  be  destitute  of  tools  of  any  kind, 
yet  there  were  bows  and  arrows  very  well  made ;  the  former 
were  formed  of  pine,  cedar,  or  bone,  strengthened  by  sinews, 
and  the  latter  of  the  wood  of  rose-bushes,  and  other  crooked 
plants,  but  carefully  straightened,  and  tipped  with  stone  of  a 
bottle-green  color. 

There  were  also  vessels  of  willow  and  grass,  so  closely 
wrought  as  to  hold  water,  and  a  seine  neatly  made  with 
meshes,  in  the  ordinary  manner,  of  the  fibres  of  wild  flax  or 
nettle.  The  humble  effects  of  the  poor  savages  remained  un 
molested  by  their  visitors,  and  a  few  small  articles,  with 
a  knife  or  two,  were  left  in  the  camp,  and  were  no  doubt  re 
garded  as  invaluable  prizes. 

Shortly  after  leaving  this  deserted  camp,  and  re  embarking 
in  the  canoes,  the  travellers  met  with  three  of  the  Snakes  on  a 
triangular  raft  made  of  flags  or  reeds ;  such  was  their  rude 
mode  of  navigating  the  river.  They  were  entirely  naked  ex  • 
jepting  small  mantles  of  hare  skins  over  their  shoulders.  The 
canoes  approached  near  enough  to  gain  a  full  view  of  them, 
but  they  were  not  to  be  brought  to  a  parley. 

All  further  progress  for  the  day  was  barred  by  a  fall  in  the 
river  of  about  thirty  feet  perpendicular ;  at  the  head  of  which 
the  party  encamped  for  the  night. 

The  next  day  was  one  of  excessive  toil  and  but  little  prog 
ress,  the  river  winding  through  a  wild  rocky  country,  and 
being  interrupted  by  frequent  rapids,  among  which  the  canoes 
were  in  great  peril.  On  the  succeeding  day  they  again  visited 
a  camp  of  wandering  Snakes,  but  the  inhabitants  fled  with 
terror  at  the  sight  of  a  fleet  of  canoes,  filled  with  white  men, 
coming  down  their  solitary  river. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  was  extremely  anxious  to  gain  information 
concerning  his  route,  he  endeavored  by  all  kinds  of  friendly 
signs  to  entice  back  the  fugitives.  At  length  one,  who  was  011 
horseback,  ventured  back  with  fear  and  trembling.  He  was 
better  clad  and  in  better  condition  than  most  of  his  vagrant 
tribe  that  Mr.  Hunt  had  yet  seen.  The  chief  object  of  his 
return  appeared  to  be  to  intercede  for  a  quantity  of  dried 
meat  and  salmon  trout,  which  he  had  left  behind ;  on  which, 
probably,  he  depended  for  his  winter's  subsistence.  The  poor 
wretch  approached  with  hesitation,  the  alternate  dread  ot 
famine  and  of  white  men  operating  upon  his  mind.  He  made 
the  most  abject  signs  imploring  Mr.  Hunt  not  to  carry  off  his 
food.  The  latter  tried  in  every  way  to  reassure  him,  and 


214  ASTORIA. 

offered  him  knives  in  exchange  for  his  provisions;  great  as 
was  the  temptation,  the  poor  Snake  could  only  prevail  upon 
himself  to  spare  a  part,  keeping  a  feverish  watch  over  the  rest, 
lest  it  should  be  taken  away.  It  was  in  vain  Mr.  Hunt  made 
inquiries  of  him  concerning  his  route,  and  the  course  of  the 
river.  The  Indian  was  too  much  frightened  and  bewildered  to 
comprehend  him  or  to  reply;  he  did  nothing  but  alternately 
commend  himself  to  the  protection  of  the  Good  Spirit,  and 
supplicate  Mr.  Hunt  not  to  take  away  his  fish  and  buffalo 
meat;  and  in  this  state  they  left  him,  trembling  about  his 
treasures. 

In  the  course  of  that  and  the  next  day  they  made  nearly 
eight  miles,  the  river  inclining  to  the  south  of  west,  and  being 
clear  and  beautiful,  nearly  half  a  mile  in  width  with  many 
populous  communities  of  the  beaver  along  its  banks.  The  28th 
of  October,  however,  was  a  day  of  disaster.  The  river  again 
became  rough  and  impetuous,  and  was  chafed  and  broken  by 
numerous  rapids.  These  grew  more  and  more  dangerous,  and 
the  utmost  skill  was  required  to  steer  among  them.  Mr. 
Crooks  was  seated  in  the  second  canoe  of  the  squadron,  and 
had  an  old  experienced  Canadian  for  steersman,  named 
Antoine  Clappine,  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  the  voyageurs. 
The  leading  canoe  had  glided  safely  among  the  turbulent  and 
roaring  surges,  but  in  following  it  Mr.  Crooks  perceived  that 
his  canoe  was  bearing  toward  a  rock.  He  called  out  to  the 
steersman,  but  his  warning  voice  was  either  unheard  or  un 
heeded.  In  the  next  moment  they  struck  upon  the  rock.  The 
cance  was  split  and  overturned.  There  were  five  persons  on 
board.  Mr.  Crooks  and  one  of  his  companions  were  thrown 
amid  roaring  breakers  and  a  whirling  current,  but  succeeded, 
by  strong  swimming,  to  reach  the  shore.  Clappine  and  two 
others  clung  to  the  shattered  bark,  and  drifted  with  it  to  a 
rock.  The  wreck  struck  the  rock  with  one  end,  and  swinging 
round,  flung  poor  Clappine  off  into  the  raging  stream,  which 
swept  him  away,  and  he  perished.  His  comrades  succeeded 
in  getting  upon  the  rock,  from  whence  they  were  afterward 
taken  off. 

This  disastrous  event  brought  the  whole  squadron  to  a  halt, 
and  struck  a  chill  into  every  bosom.  Indeed,  they  had  arrived 
at  a  terrific  strait,  that  forbade  all  further  progress  in  the 
canoes,  and  dismayed  the  most  experienced  voyageur.  The 
whole  body  of  the  river  was  compressed  into  a  space  of 
less  than  thirty  feet  in  width,  between  two  ledges  of  rocks, 


ASTORIA.  215 

upward  of  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  formed  a  whirling  and 
tumultuous  vortex,  so  frightfully  agitated  as  to  receive  the 
name  of  "  The  Caldron  Linn."  Beyond  this  fearful  abyss  the 
river  kept  raging  and  roaring  on,  until  lost  to  sight  among 
impending  precipices. 


CHAPTEE  XXXIII. 

MR.  HUNT  and  his  companions  encamped  upon  the  borders 
of  the  Caldron  Linn,  and  held  gloomy  counsel  as  to  their  future 
course.  The  recent  wreck  had  dismayed  even  the  voyageurs, 
and  the  fate  of  their  popular  comrade,  Clappine,  one  of  the 
most  adroit  and  experienced  of  their  fraternity,  had  struck 
sorrow  to  their  hearts,  for,  with  all  their  levity,  these  thought 
less  beings  have  great  kindness  toward  each  other. 

The  whole  distance  they  had  navigated  since  leaving  Henry's 
Fort  was  computed  to  be  about  three  hundred  and  forty  miles ; 
strong  apprehensions  were  now  entertained  that  the  tremen 
dous  impediments  before  them  would  oblige  them  to  abandon 
their  canoes.  It  was  determined  to  send  exploring  parties  on 
each  side  of  the  river  to  ascertain  whether  it  was  possible  to 
navigate  it  further.  Accordingly,  on  the  following  morning 
three  men  were  dispatched  along  the  south  bank,  while  Mr. 
Hunt  and  three  others  proceeded  along  the  north.  The  two 
parties  returned  after  a  weary  scramble  among  swamps,  rocks, 
and  precipices,  and  with  very  disheartening  accounts.  For 
nearly  forty  miles  that  they  had  explored,  the  river  foamed 
and  roared  along  through  a  deep  and  narrow  channel,  from 
twenty  to  thirty  yards  wide,  which  it  had  worn,  in  the  course 
of  ages,  through  the  heart  of  a  barren,  rocky  country.  The 
precipices  on  each  side  were  often  two  and  three  hundred  feet 
high,  sometimes  perpendicular,  and  sometimes  overhanging, 
so  that  it  was  impossible,  excepting  in  one  or  two  places,  to  get 
down  to  the  margin  of  the  stream.  This  dreary  strait  was 
rendered  the  more  dangerous  by  frequent  rapids,  and  occasion 
ally  perpendicular  falls  from  ten  to  forty  feet  in  height ;  so 
that  it  seemed  almost  hopeless  to  attempt  to  pass  the  canoes 
down  it.  The  party,  however,  who  had  explored  the  south 
side  of  the  river,  had  found  a  place,  about  six  miles  from  the 
camp,  where  they  thought  it  possible  the  canoes  might  be 


216  ASTORIA. 

carried  down  the  bank  and  launched  upon  the  stream,  and 
from  whence  they  might  make  their  way  with  the  aid  of  occa 
sional  portages.  Four  of  the  best  canoes  were  accordingly 
selected  for  the  experiment,  and  were  transported  to  the  place 
on  the  shoulders  of  sixteen  of  the  men.  At  the  same  time 
Mr.  Reed,  the  clerk,  and  three  men  were  detached  to  explore 
the  river  still  further  down  than  the  previous  scouting  parties 
had  been,  and  at  the  same  time  to  look  out  for  Indians,  from 
whom  provisions  might  be  obtained,  and  a  supply  of  horses, 
should  it  be  found  necessary  to  proceed  by  land. 

The  party  who  had  been  sent  with  the  canoes  returned  on 
the  following  day,  weary  and  dejected.  One  of  the  canoes 
had  been  swept  away  with  all  the  weapons  and  effects  of  four 
of  the  voyageurs,  in  attempting  to  pass  it  down  a  rapid  by 
means  of  a  line.  The  other  three  had  stuck  fast  among  the 
rocks,  so  that  it  was  impossible  to  move  them ;  the  men  re 
turned,  therefore,  in  despair,  and  declared  the  river  unnaviga- 
ble. 

The  situation  of  the  unfortunate  travellers  was  now  gloomy 
in  the  extreme.  They  were  in  the  heart  of  an  unknown  wilder 
ness,  untraversed  as  yet  by  a  white  man.  They  were  at  a  loss 
what  route  to  take,  and  how  far  they  were  from  the  ultimate 
place  of  their  destination,  nor  could  they  meet,  in  these  unin 
habited  wilds,  with  any  human  being  to  give  them  informa 
tion.  The  repeated  accidents  to  their  canoes  had  reduced  their 
stock  of  provisions  to  five  days'  allowance,  and  there  was  now 
every  appearance  of  soon  having  famine  added  to  their  other 
sufferings. 

This  last  circumstance  rendered  it  more  perilous  to  keep 
together  than  to  separate.  Accordingly,  after  a  little  anxious 
but  bewildered  counsel,  it  was  determined  that  several  small 
detachments  should  start  off  in  different  directions,  headed  by 
the  several  partners.  Should  any  of  them  succeed  in  falling  in 
with  friendly  Indians,  within  a  reasonable  distance,  and  ob 
taining  a  supply  of  provisions  and  horses,  they  were  to  return 
to  the  aid  of  the  main  body ;  otherwise,  they  were  to  shift  for 
themselves,  and  shape  their  course  according  to  circumstances, 
keeping  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  Eiver  as  the  ultimate  point 
of  their  wayfaring.  Accordingly,  three  several  parties  set  off 
from  the  camp  at  Caldron  Linn,  in  opposite  directions.  Mr. 
M'Lcllan,  with  three  men,  kept  down  along  the  bank  of  the 
river.  Mr.  Crooks,  with  five  others,  turned  their,  steps  up  it, 
retracing  by  land  the  weary  course  they  had  made  by  water, 


ASTORIA.  217 

intending,  should  thoy  not  find  relief  nearer  at  hand,  to  keep 
on  until  they  should  reach  Henry's  Fort,  where  they  hoped  to 
find  the  horses  they  had  left  there,  and  to  return  with  them  to 
the  main  body. 

The  third  party,  composed  of  five  men,  was  headed  by  Mr. 
M'Kenzie,  who  struck  to  the  northward,  across  the  desert 
plains,  in  hopes  of  coming  upon  the  main  stream  of  the  Co 
lumbia. 

Having  seen  these  three  adventurous  bands  depart  upon 
their  forlorn  expeditions,  Mr.  Hunt  turned  his  thoughts  to  pro 
vide  for  the  subsistence  of  the  main  body,  left  to  his  charge, 
and  to  prepare  for  their  future  march.  There  remained  with 
him  thirty-one  men,  besides  the  squaw  and  two  children  of 
Pierre  Dorion.  There  was  no  game  to  be  met  with  in  the 
neighborhood ;  but  beavers  were  occasionally  trapped  about  the 
river  banks,  which  afforded  a  scanty  supply  of  food;  in  the 
mean  time  they  comforted  themselves  that  some  one  or  other 
of  the  foraging  detachments  would  be  successful,  and  return 
with  relief. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  set  to  work  with  all  diligence,  to  prepare 
caches  in  which  to  deposit  the  baggage  and  merchandise,  of 
which  it  would  be  necessary  to  disburden  themselves,  prepara 
tory  to  their  weary -march  by  land;  and  here  we  shall  give  a 
brief  description  of  those  contrivances,  so  noted  in  the  wil 
derness. 

A  cache  is  a  term,  common  among  traders  and  hunters,  to 
designate  a  hiding-place  for  provisions  and  effects.  It  is  de 
rived  from  the  French  word  cacher,  to  conceal,  and  originated 
among  the  early  colonists  of  Canada  and  Louisiana;  but  the 
secret  depository  which  it  designates  was  in  use  among  the 
aboriginals  long  before  the  intrusion  of  the  white  men.  It  is, 
in  fact,  the  only  mode  that  migratory  hordes  have  of  preserv 
ing  their  valuables  from  robbery,  during  their  long  absences 
from  their  villages  or  accustomed  haunts,  or  hunting  expedi 
tions,  or  during  the  vicissitudes  of  war.  The  utmost  skill  and 
caution  are  required  to  render  these  places  of  concealment  in 
visible  to  the  lynx  eye  of  an  Indian.  The  first  care  is  to  seek 
out  a  proper  situation,  which  is  generally  some  dry  low  bank 
of  clay,  on  the  margin  of  a  water-course.  As  soon  as  the  pre 
cise  spot  is  pitched  upon,  blankets,  saddle-cloths,  and  other 
coverings  are  spread  over  the  surrounding  grass  and  bushes, 
to  prevent  foot  tracks,  or  any  other  derangement ;  and  as  f ew 
hands  as  possible  are  employed.  A  circle  of  about  two  feet  in 


218  ASTORIA. 

diameter  is  then  nicely  cut  in  the  sod,  which  is  carefully  re* 
moved,  with  the  loose  soil  immediately  beneath  it,  and  laid 
aside  in  a  place  where  it  will  be  safe  from  anything  that  may 
change  its  appearance.  The  uncovered  area  is  then  digged 
perpendicularly  to  the  depth  of  about  three  feet,  and  is  then 
gradually  widened  so  as  to  form  a  conical  chamber,  six  or  seven 
feet  deep.  The  whole  of  the  earth  displaced  by  thi  3  process, 
being  of  a  different  color  from  that  on  the  surface,  is  handed 
up  in  a  vessel,  and  heaped  into  a  skin  or  cloth,  in  which  it  is 
conveyed  to  the  stream  and  thrown  into  the  midst  of  the  cur 
rent  that  it  may  be  entirely  carried  off.  Should  the  cache  not 
be  formed  in  the  vicinity  of  a  stream,  the  earth  thus  thrown 
up  is  carried  to  a  distance,  and  scattered  in  such  manner  as  not 
to  leave  the  minutest  trace.  The  cave,  being  formed,  is  well 
lined  with  dry  grass,  bark,  sticks,  and  poles,  and  occasionally 
a  dried  hide.  The  property  intended  to  be  hidden  is  then  laid 
in,  after  having  been  well  aired ;  a  hide  is  spread  over  it,  and 
dried  grass,  brush,  and  stones  thrown  in,  and  trampled  down 
until  the  pit  is  filled  to  the  neck.  The  loose  soil  which  had 
been  put  aside  is  then  brought,  and  rammed  down  firmly,  to 
prevent  its  caving  in,  and  is  frequently  sprinkled  with  water, 
to  destroy  the  scent,  lest  the  wolves  and  bears  should  be  at 
tracted  to  the  place,  and  root  up  the  concealed  treasure.  When 
the  neck  of  the  cache  is  nearly  level  with  the  surrounding  sur 
face,  the  sod  is  again  fitted  in  with  the  utmost  exactness,  and 
any  bushes,  stocks,  or  stones,  that  may  have  originally  been 
about  the  spot,  are  restored  to  their  former  places.  The  blank 
ets  and  other  coverings  are  then  removed  from  the  surrounding 
herbage ;  all  tracks  are  obliterated ;  the  grass  is  gently  raised 
by  the  hand  to  its  natural  position,  and  the  minutest  chip  or 
straw  is  scrupulously  gleaned  up  and  thrown  into  the  stream. 
After  all  is  done,  the  place  is  abandoned  for  the  night,  and,  if 
all  be  right  next  morning,  is  not  visited  again,  until  there  be  a 
necessity  for  reopening  the  cache.  Four  men  are  sufficient,  in 
this  way,  to  conceal  the  amount  of  three  tons'  weight  of  mer 
chandise  in  the  course  of  two  days.  Nine  caches  were  required 
to  contain  the  goods  and  baggage  which  Mr.  Hunt  found  it 
necessary  to  leave  at  this  place. 

Three  days  had  been  thus  employed  since  the  departure  of 
the  several  detachments,  when  that  of  Mr.  Crooks  unexpect 
edly  made  its  appearance.  A  momentary  joy  was  diffused 
through  the  camp,  for  they  supposed  succor  to  be  at  hand.  It 
\vas  soon  dispelled.  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  companions  had  be- 


ASTORIA. 

come  completely  disheartened  by  this  retrograde  march  through 
a  bleak  and  barren  country ;  and  had  found,  computing  from 
their  progress  and  the  accumulating  difficulties  besetting  every 
step,  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  reach  Henry's  Fort  and  re 
turn  to  the  main  body  in  the  course  of  the  winter.  They  had 
determined,  therefore,  to  rejoin  their  comrades,  and  share  their 
lot. 

One  avenue  of  hope  was  thus  closed  upon  the  anxious  so- 
sojourriers  at  the  Caldron  Linn ;  their  main  expectation  of  re 
lief  was  now  from  the  two  parties  under  Reed  and  M'Lellan, 
which  had  proceeded  down  the  river,  for,  as  to  Mr.  M'Kenzie's 
detachment,  which  had  struck  across  the  plains,  they  thought 
it  would  have  sufficient  difficulty  in  struggling  forward  through 
the  trackless  wilderness.  For  five  days  they  continued  to  sup 
port  themselves  by  trapping  and  fishing.  Some  fish  of  tolera 
ble  size  were  speared  at  night  by  the  light  of  cedar  torches ; 
others,  that  were  very  small,  were  caught  in  nets  with  fine 
meshes.  The  product  of  their  fishing,  however,  was  very 
scanty.  Their  trapping  was  also  precarious,  and  the  tails  and 
bellies  of  the  beavers  were  dried  and  put  by  for  the  journey. 

At  length  two  of  the  companions  of  Mr.  Reed  returned,  and 
were  hailed  with  the  most  anxious  eagerness.  Their  report 
served  but  to  increase  the  general  despondency.  They  had 
followed  Mr.  Reed  for  some  distance  below  the  point  to  which 
Mr.  Hunt  had  explored,  but  had  met  with  no  Indians,  from 
whom  to  obtain  information  and  relief.  The  river  still  pre 
sented  the  same  furious  aspect,  brawling  and  boiling  along  a 
narrow  and  rugged  channel,  between  rocks  that  rose  like 
walls. 

A  lingering  hope,  which  had  been  indulged  by  some  of  the 
party,  of  proceeding  by  water,  was  now  finally  given  up :  the 
long  and  terrific  strait  of  the  river  set  all  further  progress  at 
defiance,  and  in  their  disgust  at  the  place,  and  their  vexation 
at  the  disasters  sustained  there,  they  gave  it  the  indignant 
though  not  very  decorous  appellation  of  the  Devil's  Scuttle 
Hole. 


220  ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

THE  resolution  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  was  no\v 
taken  to  set  out  immediately  on  foot.  As  to  the  other  detach 
ments  that  had  in  a  manner  gone  forth  to  seek  their  fortunes, 
there  was  little  chance  of  their  return ;  they  would  probably 
make  their  own  way  through  the  wilderness.  At  any  rate,  to 
linger  in  the  vague  hope  of  relief  from  them  would  be  to  run 
the  risk  of  perishing  with  hunger.  Besides,  the  winter  was 
rapidly  advancing,  and  they  had  a  long  journey  to  make 
through  an  unknown  country,  where  all  kinds  of  perils  might 
await  them.  They  were  yet,  in  fact,  a  thousand  miles  from 
Astoria,  but  the  distance  was  unknown  to  them  at  the  time ; 
everything  before  and  around  them  was  vague  and  conjectural, 
and  wore  an  aspect  calculated  to  inspire  despondency. 

In  abandoning  the  river  they  would  have  to  launch  forth 
upon  vast  trackless  plains,  destitute  of  all  means  of  sub 
sistence,  where  they  might  perish  of  hunger  and  thirst,  A 
dreary  desert  of  sand  and  gravel  extends  from  Snake  River 
almost  to  the  Columbia.  Here  and  there  is  a  thin  and  scanty 
herbage,  insufficient  for  the  pasture  of  horse  or  buffalo.  In 
deed  these  treeless  wastes  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and 
the  Pacific  are  even  more  desolate  and  barren  than  the  naked, 
upper  prairies  on  the  Atlantic  side ;  they  present  vast  desert 
tracts  that  must  ever  defy  cultivation,  and  interpose  dreary 
and  thirsty  wilds  between  the  habitations  of  man,  in  travers 
ing  which  the  wanderer  will  often  be  in  danger  of  perishing. 

Seeing  the  hopeless  character  of  these  wastes,  Mr.  Hunt  and 
his  companions  determined  to  keep  along  the  course  of  the 
river,  where  they  would  always  have  water  at  hand,  and 
would  be  able  occasionally  to  procure  fish  and  beaver,  and 
might  perchance  meet  with  Indians,  from  whom  they  could 
obtain  provisions. 

They  now  made  their  final  preparations  for  the  march.  All 
their  remaining  stock  of  provisions  consisted  of  forty  pounds 
of  Indian  corn,  twenty  pounds  of  grease,  about  five  pounds  of 
portable  soup,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  dried  meat  to  allow 
each  man  a  pittance  of  five  pounds  and  a  quarter,  to  be  re 
served  for  emergencies.  This  being  properly  distributed,  they 


ASTORIA.  221 

deposited  all  their  goods  and  superfluous  articles  in  the  caches, 
taking  nothing  with  them  but  what  was  indispensable  to  the 
journey.  With  all  their  management,  each  man  had  to  carry 
twenty  pounds'  weight  beside  his  own  articles  and  equipments. 

That  they  might  have  the  better  chance  of  procuring  sub 
sistence  in  the  scanty  regions  they  were  to  traverse,  they 
divided  their  party  into  two  bands,  Mr.  Hunt,  with  eighteen 
men,  besides  Pierre  Dorion  and  his  family,  was  to  proceed 
down  the  north  side  of  tne  river,  while  Mr.  Crooks,  with 
eighteen  men,  kept  along  the  south  side. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  October,  the  two  parties  sepa 
rated  and  set  forth  on  their  several  courses.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his 
companions  followed  along  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  which 
made  its  way  far  below  them,  brawling  at  the  foot  of  perpen 
dicular  precipices  of  solid  rock,  two  and  three  hundred  feet 
high.  For  twenty-eight  miles  that  they  travelled  this  day, 
they  found  it  impossible  to  get  down  to  the  margin  of  the 
stream.  At  the  end  of  this  distance  they  encamped  for  the 
night  at  a  place  which  admitted  a  scrambling  descent.  It 
was  with  the  greatest  difficulty,  however,  they  succeeded  in 
getting  up  a  kettle  of  water  from  the  river  for  the  use  of  the 
camp.  As  some  rain  had  fallen  in  the  afternoon,  they  passed 
the  night  under  the  shelter  of  the  rocks. 

The  next  day  they  continued  thirty-two  miles  to  the  north 
west,  keeping  along  the  river,  which  still  ran  in  its  deep  cut 
channel.  Here  and  there  a  sandy  beach  or  a  narrow  strip  of 
soil  fringed  with  dwarf  willows  would  extend  for  a  little  dis 
tance  along  the  foot  of  the  cliffs,  and  sometimes  a  reach  of  still 
water  would  intervene  like  a  smooth  mirror  between  the  foam 
ing  rapids. 

As  through  the  preceding  day,  they  journeyed  on  without 
finding,  except  in  one  instance,  any  place  where  they  could 
get  down  to  the  river's  edge,  and  they  were  fain  to  allay  the 
thirst  caused  by  hard  travelling,  with  the  water  collected  in 
the  hollow  of  the  rocks. 

In  the  course  of  their  march  on  the  following  morning  they 
fell  into  a  beaten  horse  path  leading  along  the  river,  which 
showed  that  they  were  in  the  neighborhood  of  some  Indian 
village  or  encampment.  They  had  not  proceeded  far  along  it, 
when  they  met  with  two  Shoshonies  or  Snakes.  They  ap 
proached  with  some  appearance  of  uneasiness,  and  accosting 
Mr.  Hunt,  held  up  a  knife,  which  by  signs  they  let  him  know 
they  had  received  from  some  of  the  white  men  of  the  advance 


ASTORIA. 

parties.  It  was  with  some  difficulty  that  Mr.  Hunt  prevailed 
upon  one  of  the  savages  to  conduct  him  to  the  lodges  of  his 
people.  Striking  into  a  trail  or  path  which  led  up  from  the 
river,  he  guided  them  for  some  distance  in  the  prairie,  until 
they  came  in  sight  of  a  number  of  lodges  made  of  straw,  and 
shaped  like  haystacks.  Their  approach,  as  on  former  occa 
sions,  caused  the  wildest  affright  among  ^the  inhabitants.  The 
women  hid  such  of  their  children  as  were  too  large  to  be  car 
ried,  and  too  small  to  take  care  of  themselves,  under  straw, 
and,  clasping  their  infants  to  their  breasts,  fled  across  the  prai 
rie.  The  men  awaited  the  approach  of  these  strangers,  but 
evidently  in  great  alarm. 

Mr.  Hunt  entered  the  lodges,  and,  as  he  was  looking  about, 
observed  where  the  children  were  concealed,  their  black  eyes 
glistening  like  those  of  snakes  from  beneath  the  straw.  He 
lifted  up  the  covering  to  look  at  them ;  the  poor  little  beings 
were  horribly  frightened,  and  their  fathers  stood  trembling  as 
if  a  beast  of  prey  were  about  to  pounce  upon  the  brood. 

The  friendly  manner  of  Mr.  Hunt  soon  dispelled  these  appre 
hensions;  he  succeeded  in  purchasing  some  excellent  dried 
salmon,  and  a  dog,  an  animal  much  esteemed  as  food  by  the 
natives ;  and  when  he  returned  to  the  river  one  of  the  Indians 
accompanied  him.  He  now  came  to  where  lodges  were  fre 
quent  along  the  banks,  and,  after  a  day's  journey  of  twenty- 
six  miles  to  the  northwest,  encamped  in  a  populous  neighbor 
hood.  Forty  or  fifty  of  the  natives  soon  visited  the  camp, 
conducting  themselves  in  a  very  amicable  manner.  They  were 
well  clad,  and  all  had  buffalo  robes,  which  they  procured  from 
some  of  the  hunting  tribes  in  exchange  for  salmon.  Their 
habitations  were  very  comfortable ;  each  had  its  pile  of  worm 
wood  at  the  door  for  fuel,  and  within  was  abundance  of  salmon, 
some  fresh,  but  the  greater  part  cured.  When  the  white  men 
visited  the  lodges,  however,  the  women  and  children  hid  them 
selves  through  fear.  Among  the  supplies  obtained  here  were 
two  dogs,  on  which  our  travellers  breakfasted,  and  found  them 
to  be  very  excellent,  well  flavored,  and  hearty  food. 

In  the  course  of  the  three  following  days  they  made  about 
sixty-three  miles,  generally  in  a  northwest  direction.  They  met 
with  many  of  the  natives  in  their  straw-built  cabins  who  re 
ceived  them  without  alarm.  About  their  dwellings  were  im 
mense  quantities  of  the  heads  and  skins  of  salmon,  the  best 
part  of  which  had  been  cured  and  hidden  in  the  ground.  The 
women  were  badly  clad,  the  children  worse ;  their  garments 


ASTORIA.  228 

were  buffalo  robes,  or  the  skins  of  foxes,  wolves,  hares,  and 
badgers,  and  sometimes  the  skins  of  ducks,  sewed  together 
with  the  plumage  on.  Most  of  the  skins  must  have  been  pro 
cured  by  traffic  with  other  tribes,  or  in  distant  hunting  excur 
sions,  for  the  naked  prairies  in  the  neighborhood  afforded  few  i 
animals,  excepting  horses,  which  were  abundant.  There  were 
signs  of  buffaloes  having  been  there,  but  a  long  time  before. 

On  the  15th  of  November  they  made  twenty-eight  miles  along 
the  river,  which  was  entirely  free  from  rapids.  The  shores 
were  lined  with  dead  salmon,  which  tainted  the  whole  atmos 
phere.  The  natives  whom  they  met  spoke  of  Mr.  Reed's  party 
having  passed  through  that  neighborhood.  In  the  course  of 
the  day  Mr.  Hunt  saw  a  few  horses,  but  the  owners  of  them 
took  care  to  hurry  them  out  of  the  way.  All  the  provisions 
they  were  able  to  procure  were  two  dogs  and  a  salmon.  On 
the  following  day  they  were  still  worse  off,  having  to  subsist 
on  parched  corn  and  the  remains  of  their  dried  meat.  The 
river  this  day  had  resumed  its  turbulent  character,  forcing  i'ts 
way  through  a  narrow  channel  between  steep  rocks,  and  down 
violent  rapids.  They  made  twenty  miles  over  a  rugged  road, 
gradually  approaching  a  mountain  in  the  northwest,  covered 
with  snow,  which  had  been  in  sight  for  three  days  past. 

On  the  17th  they  met  with  several  Indians,  one  of  whom  had 
a  horse.  Mr.  Hunt  was  extremely  desirous  of  obtaining  it  as  a 
pack-horse;  for  the  men,  worn  down  by  fatigue  and  hunger, 
found  the  loads  of  twenty  pounds'  weight  which  they  had  to 
carry,  daily  growing  heavier  and  more  galling.  The  Indians, 
however,  along  this  river,  were  never  willing  to  part  with  their 
horses,  having  none  to  spare.  The  owner  of  the  steed  in  ques 
tion  seemed  proof  against  all  temptation ;  article  after  article 
of  great  value  in  Indian  eyes  was  offered  and  refused.  The 
charms  of  an  old  tin-kettle,  however,  were  irresistible,  and  a 
bargain  was  concluded. 

A  great  part  of  the  following  morning  was  consumed  in 
lightening  the  packages  of  the  men  and  arranging  the  load  for 
the  horse.  At  this  encampment  there  was  no  wood  for  fuel, 
even  the  wormwood  on  which  they  had  frequently  depended 
having  disappeared.  For  the  two  last  days  they  had  made 
thirty  miles  to  the  northwest. 

On  the  19th  of  November  Mr.  Hunt  was  lucky  enough  to 
purchase  another  horse  for  his  own  use;  giving  in  exchange  a 
tomahawk,  a  knife,  a  fire  steel,  and  some  beads  and  gartering. 
In  an  evil  hour,  however,  he  took  the  advice  of  the  Indians  to 


224  ASTORIA. 

abandon  the  river,  and  follow  a  road  or  trail  leading  into  the 
prairies.  He  soon  had  cause  to  repent  the  change.  The  road 
led  across  a  dreary  waste  without  verdure ;  and  where  there 
was  neither  fountain,  nor  pool,  nor  running  stream.  The  men 
now  began  to  experience  the  torments  of  thirst,  aggravated  by 
their  usual  diet  of  dried  fish.  The  thirst  of  the  Canadian 
voyageurs  became  so  insupportable  as  to  drive  them  to  the 
most  revolting  means  of  allaying  it.  For  twenty-five  miles 
did  they  toil  on  across  this  dismal  desert,  and  laid  themselves 
down  at  night,  parched  and  disconsolate,  beside  their  worm 
wood  fires ;  looking  forward  to  still  greater  sufferings  on  the 
following  day.  Fortunately,  it  began  to  rain  in  the  night,  to 
their  infinite  relief;  the  water  soon  collected  in  puddles  and 
afforded  them  delicious  draughts. 

Refreshed  in  this  manner,  they  resumed  their  wayfaring  as 
soon  as  the  first  streaks  of  dawn  gave  light  enough  for  them  to 
see  their  path.  The  rain  continued  all  day,  so  that  they  no 
longer  suffered  from  thirst,  but  hunger  took  its  place,  for  after 
travelling  thirty-three  miles  they  had  nothing  to  sup  on  but  a 
little  parched  corn. 

The  next  day  brought  them  to  the  banks  of  a  beautiful  little 
stream,  running  to  the  west,  and  fringed  with  groves  of  cotton- 
wood  and  willow.  On  its  borders  was  an  Indian  camp,  with  a 
great  many  horses  grazing  around  it.  The  inhabitants,  too, 
appeared  to  be  better  clad  than  usual.  The  scene  was  alto 
gether  a  cheering  one  to  the  poor  half-famished  wanderers. 
They  hastened  to  the  lodges,  but  on  arriving  at  them,  met  with 
a  check  that  at  first  dampened  their  cheerfulness.  An  Indian 
immediately  laid  claim  to  the  horse  of  Mr.  Hunt,  saying  that 
it  had  been  stolen  from  him.  There  was  no  disproving  a  fact 
supported  by  numerous  bystanders,  and  which  the  horse-steal 
ing  habits  of  the  Indians  rendered  but  too  probable;  so  Mr. 
Hunt  relinquished  his  steed  to  the  claimant ;  not  being  able  to 
retain  him  by  a  second  purchase. 

At  this  place  they  encamped  for  the  night,  and  made  a 
sumptuous  repast  upon  fish  and  a  couple  of  dogs,  procured 
from  their  Indian  neighbors.  The  next  day  they  kept  along 
the  river,  but  came  to  a  halt  after  ten  miles'  march,  on  account 
of  the  rain.  Here  they  again  got  a  supply  of  fish  and  dogs 
from  the  natives ;  and  two  of  the  men  were  fortunate  enough 
each  to  get  a  horse  in  exchange  for  a  buffalo  robe.  One  of  these 
men  was  Pierre  Dorion,  the  half-breed  interpreter,  to  whose 
suffering  family  the  horse  was  a  most  timely  acquisition.  And 


ASTORIA.  225 

here  we  cannot  but  notica  the  wonderful  patience,  persever 
ance,  and  hardihood  of  the  Indian  women,  as-  exemplified  in 
the  conduct  of  the  poor  squaw  of  the  interpreter.  She  was 
now  far  advanced  in  her  pregnancy,  and  had  two  children  to 
take  care  of,  one  four,  and  the  other  two  years  of  age.  The 
latter  of  course  she  had  frequently  to  carry  on  her  back,  in 
addition  to  the  burden  usually  imposed  upon  the  squaw,  yet 
she  had  borne  all  her  hardships  without  a  murmur,  and 
throughout  this  weary  and  painful  journey  had  kept  pace 
with  the  best  of  the  pedestrians.  Indeed  on  various  occasions 
in  the  course  of  this  enterprise,  she  displayed  a  force  of  char 
acter  that  won  the  respect  and  applause  of  the  white  men. 

l.Ir.  Hunt  endeavored  to  gather  some  information  from  these 
Indians  concerning  the  country  and  the  course  of  the  rivers. 
His  communications  with  them  had  to  be  by  signs,  and  a  few 
words  which  he  had  learnt,  and  of  course  were  extremely 
vague.  All  that  he  could  learn  from  them  was  that  the  great 
river,  the  Columbia,  was  still  far  distant,  but  he  could  ascer 
tain  nothing  as  to  the  route  he  ought  to  take  to  arrive  at  it. 
For  tho  two  following  days  they  continued  westward  upward 
of  forty  miles  along  the  little  stream,  until  they  crossed  it  just 
before  its  junction  with  Snake  Eiver,  which  they  found  still 
running  to  the  north.  Before  them  was  a  wintry-looking 
mountain  covered  with  snow  on  all  sides. 

In  three  days  more  they  maAe  about  seventy  miles,  fording 
two  small  rivers,  the  waters  of  which  were  very  cold.  Provi 
sions  were  extremely  scarce ;  their  chief  sustenance  was  porta 
ble  soup,  a  meagre  diet  for  weary  pedestrians. 

On  the  27th  of  November  the  river  led  them  into  the  moun 
tains  through  a  rocky  defile  where  there  was  scarcely  room  to 
pass.  They  were  frequently  obliged  to  unload  the  horses  to 
get  them  by  the  narrow  places,  and  sometimes  to  wade  through 
the  water  in  getting  round  rocks  and  butting  cliffs.  All  their 
food  this  day  was  a  beaver  which  they  had  caught  the  night 
before ;  by  evening  the  cravings  of  hunger  were  so  sharp,  and 
the  prospect  of  any  supply  among  the  mountains  so  faint,  that 
they  had  to  kill  one  of  the  horses.  "  The  men,"  says  Mr.  Hunt 
in  his  journal,  "  find  the  meat  very  good,  and  indeed,  so  should 
I,  were  it  not  for  the  attachment  I  have  to  the  animal." 

Early  in  the  following  day,  after  proceeding  ten  miles  to  the 
north,  they  came  to  two  lodges  of  Shoshonies,  who  seemed  in 
nearly  as  great  an  extremity  as  themselves,  having  just  killed 
two  horses  for  food.  They  had  no  other  provisions  excepting 


226  ASTORIA. 

the  seed  of  a  weed  which  they  gather  in  great  quantities,  and 
pound  fine.  It  resembles  hemp  seed.  Mr.  Hunt  purchased  a 
bag  of  it,  and  also  some  small  pieces  of  horse-flesh,  which  he 
began  to  relish,  pronouncing  them  "  fat  and  tender." 

From  these  Indians  he  received  information  that  several 
white  men  had  gone  down  the  river,  some  one  side,  and  a  good 
many  on  the  other ;  these  last  he  concluded  to  be  Mr.  Crooks 
and  his  party.  He  was  thus  released  from  much  anxiety  about 
their  safety,  especially  as  the  Indians  spoke  of  Mr.  Crooks 
having  one  of  his  dogs  yet,  which  showed  that  he  and  his  men 
had  not  been  reduced  to  extremity  of  hunger. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  feared  that  he  might  be  several  days  in  passing 
through  this  mountain  defile,  and  run  the  risk  of  famine,  he 
encamped  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Indians,  for  the  purpose 
of  bartering  with  them  for  a  horse.  The  evening  was  expended 
in  ineffectual  trials.  He  offered  a  gun,  a  buffalo  robe,  and 
various  other  articles.  The  poor  fellows  had,  probably,  like 
himself,  the  fear  of  starvation  before  their  eyes.  At  length  the 
women,  learning  the  object  of  his  pressing  solicitations  and 
tempting  offers,  set  up  such  a  terrible  hue  and  cry  that  he  was 
fairly  howled  and  scolded  from  the  ground. 

The  next  morning  early,  the  Indians  seemed  very  desirous 
to  get  rid  of  their  visitors,  fearing,  probably,  for  the  safety  of 
their  horses.  In  reply  to  Mr.  Hunt's  inquiries  about  the  moun 
tains,  they  told  him  that  he  would  have  to  sleep  but  three 
nights  more  among  them,  and  that  six  days'  travelling  would 
take  him  to  the  falls  of  the  Columbia ;  information  in  which  he 
put  no  faith,  believing  it  was  only  given  to  induce  him  to  set  for 
ward.  These,  he  was  told,  were  the  last  Snakes  he  would  meet 
with,  and  that  he  would  soon  come  to  a  nation  called  Sciatogas. 

Forward  then  did  he  proceed  on  his  tedious  journey,  which 
at  every  step  grew  more  painful.  The  road  continued  for  two 
days  through  narrow  defiles,  where  they  were  repeatedly 
obliged  to  unload  the  horses.  Sometimes  the  river  passed 
through  such  rocky  chasms  and  under  such  steep  precipices 
that  they  had  to  leave  it,  and  make  their  way,  with  excessive 
labor,  over  immense  hills,  almost  impassable  for  horses.  On 
some  of  these  hills  were  a  few  pine  trees,  and  their  summits 
wore  covered  with  snow.  On  the  second  day  of  this  scramble 
one  of  the  hunters  killed  a  black-tailed  deer,  which  afforded 
the  half -starved  travellers  a  sumptuous  repast.  Their  progress 
these  two  days  was  twenty-eight  miles,  a  little  to  the  north 
ward  of  east. 


ASTORIA.  227 

The  month  of  December  set  in  drearily,  with  rain  in  the  val 
leys  and  snow  upon  the  hills.  They  had  to  climb  a  mountain 
with  snow  to  the  midleg,  which  increased  their  painful  toil. 
A  small  beaver  supplied  them  with  a  scanty  meal,  which  they 
eked  out  with  frozen  blackberries,  haws,  and  choke-cherries, 
which  they  found  in  the  course  of  their  scramble.  Their  jour 
ney  this  day,  though  excessively  fatiguing,  was  but  thirteen 
miles ;  and  all  the  next  day  they  had  to  remain  encamped,  not 
being  able  to  see  half  a  mile  ahead,  on  account  of  a  snow-storm. 
Having  nothing  else  to  eat,  they  were  compelled  to  kill  another 
of  their  horses.  The  next  day  they  resumed  their  march  in 
snow  and  rain,  but  with  all  their  efforts  could  only  get  forward 
nine  miles,  having  for  a  part  of  the  distance  to  unload  the 
horses  and  carry  the  packs  themselves.  On  the  succeeding 
morning  they  were  obliged  to  leave  the  river  and  scramble  up 
the  hills.  From  the  summit  of  these,  they  got  a  wide  view  of 
the  surrounding  country,  and  it  was  a  prospect  almost  sufficient 
to  make  them  despair.  In  every  direction  they  beheld  snowy 
mountains,  partially  sprinkled  with  pines  and  other  evergreens, 
and  spreading  a  desert  and  toilsome  world  around  them.  The 
wind  howled  over  the  bleak  and  wintry  landscape,  and  seemed 
to  penetrate  to  the  marrow  of  their  bones.  They  waded  on 
through  the  snow,  which  at  every  step  was  more  than  knee 
deep. 

After  toiling  in  this  way  all  day,  they  had  the  mortification 
to  find  that  they  were  but  four  miles  distant  from  the  encamp 
ment  of  the  preceding  night,  such  was  the  meandering  of  the 
river  among  these  dismal  hills.  Pinched  with  famine,  ex 
hausted  with  fatigue,  with  evening  approaching,  and  a  wintry 
wild  still  lengthening  as  they  advanced,  they  began  to  look 
forward  with  sad  forebodings  to  the  night's  exposure  upon  this 
frightful  waste.  Fortunately  they  succeeded  in  reaching  a 
cluster  of  pines  about  sunset.  Their  axes  were  immediately  at 
work :  they  cut  down  trees,  piled  them  up  in  great  heaps,  and 
soon  had  huge  fires  "  to  cheer  their  cold  and  hungry  hearts." 

About  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  it  again  began  to  snow, 
and  at  daybreak  they  found  themselves,  as  it  were,  in  a  cloud, 
scarcely  being  able  to  distinguish  objects  at  the  distance  of  a 
hundred  yards.  Guiding  themselves  by  the  sound  of  running 
water,  they  set  out  for  the  river,  and  by  slipping  and  sliding 
contrived  to  get  down  to  its  bank.  One  of  the  horses,  missing 
his  footing,  rolled  down  several  hundred  yards  with  his  load, 
but  sustained  no  injury.  The  weather  in  tho  valley  was  less 


228  ASTORIA. 

rigorous  than  on  the  hills.  The  snow  lay  but  ankle  deep,  and 
there  was  a  quiet  rain  now  falling.  After  creeping  along  for 
six  miles,  they  encamped  on  the  border  of  the  river.  Being 
utterly  destitute  of  provisions,  they  were  again  compelled  to 
kill  one  of  their  horses  to  appease  their  famishing  hunger. 


CHAPTER   XXXV. 

THE  wanderers  had  now  accomplished  four  hundred  and 
seventy-two  miles  of  their  dreary  journey  since  leaving  the 
Caldron  Linn ;  how  much  further  they  had  yet  to  travel,  and 
what  hardships  to  encounter,  no  one  knew. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  December  they  left  their  dis 
mal  encampment,  but  had  scarcely  begun  their  march  when, 
to  their  surprise,  they  beheld  a  party  of  white  men  coming  up 
along  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.  As  they  drew  nearer 
they  were  recognized  for  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  companions. 
When  they  came  opposite,  and  could  make  themselves  heard 
across  the  murmuring  of  the  river,  their  first  cry  was  for  food ; 
in  fact,  they  were  almost  starved.  Mr.  Hunt  immediately 
returned  to  the  camp,  and  had  a  kind  of  canoe  made  out  of 
the  skin  of  the  horse  killed  on  the  preceding  night.  This  was 
done  after  the  Indian  fashion,  by  drawing  up  the  edges  of  the 
skin  with  thongs,  and  keeping  them  distended  by  sticks  or 
thwarts  pieces.  In  this  frail  bark,  Sardepie,  one  of  the  Cana 
dians,  carried  over  a  portion  of  the  flesh  of  the  horse  to  the 
famishing  party  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  brought 
back  with  him  Mr.  Crooks  and  the  Canadian,  Le  Clerc.  The 
forlorn  and  wasted  looks  and  starving  condition  of  these  two 
men  struck  dismay  to  the  hearts  of  Mr.  Hunt's  followers. 
They  had  been  accustomed  to  each  other's  appearance,  and  to 
the  gradual  operation  of  hunger  and  hardship  upon  their 
frames,  but  the  change  in  the  looks  of  these  men,  since  last 
they  parted,  was  a  type  of  the  famine  and  desolation  of  the 
land;  and  they  now  began  to  indulge  the  horrible  presenti 
ment  that  they  would  all  starve  together,  or  be  reduced  to  the 
direful  alternative  of  casting  lots ! 

When  Mr.  Crooks  had  appeased  his  hunger,  he  gave  Mr. 
Hunt  some  account  of  his  wayfaring.  On  the  side  of  the  river 
along  which  he  had  kept  he  had  met  with  but  few  Indians, 


ASTORIA.  229 

and  those  were  too  miserably  poor  to  yield  much  assistance. 
For  the  first  eighteen  days  after  leaving  the  Caldron  Linn,  he 
and  his  men  had  been  confined  to  half  a  meal  in  twenty-four 
hours ;  for  three  days  following  they  had  subsisted  on  a  single 
beaver,  a  few  wild  cherries,  and  the  soles  of  old  moccasons ; 
and  for  the  last  six  days  their  only  animal  food  had  been  the 
carcass  of  a  dog.  They  hod  been  three  days'  journey  further 
down  the  river  than  Mr.  Hunt,  always  keeping  as  near  to  its 
banks  as  possible,  and  frequently  climbing  over  sharp  and 
rocky  ridges  that  projected  into  the  stream.  At  length  they 
had  arrived  to  where  the  mountains  increased  in  height,  and 
came  closer  to  the  river,  with  perpendicular  precipices,  which 
rendered  it  impossible  to  keep  along  the  stream.  The  river  here 
rushed  with  incredible  velocity  through  a  defile  not  more  than 
thirty  yards  wide,  where  cascades  and  rapids  succeeded  each 
other  almost  without  intermission.  Even  had  the  opposite 
banks,  therefore,  been  such  as  to  permit  a  continuance  of  their 
journey,  it  would  have  been  madness  to  attempt  to  pass  the 
tumultuous  current,  either  on  rafts  or  otherwise.  Still  bent, 
however,  on  pushing  forward,  they  attempted  to  climb  the 
opposing  mountains ;  and  struggled  on  through  the  snow  for 
half  a  day  until,  coming  to  where  they  could  command  a 
prospect,  they  found  that  they  were  not  half  way  to  the  sum 
mit,  and  that  mountain  upon  mountain  lay  piled  beyond  them, 
in  wintry  desolation.  Famished  and  emaciated  as  they  were, 
to  continue  forward  would  be  to  perish;  their  only  chance 
seemed  to  be  to  regain  the  river,  and  retrace  their  steps  up  its 
banks.  It  was  in  this  forlorn  and  retrograde  march  that  they 
had  met  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party. 

Mr.  Crooks  also  gave  information  of  some  others  of  their 
fellow  adventurers.  He  had  spoken  several  days  previously 
with  Mr.  Reed  and  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  who  with  their  men  were  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  where  it  was  impossible  to  get 
over  to  them.  They-  informed  hiin  that  Mr.  M'Lellan  had 
struck  across  from  the  little  river  above  the  mountains,  in  the 
hope  of  falling  in  with  some  of  the  tribe  of  Flatheads,  who  in 
habit  the  western  skirts  of  the  Rocky  range.  As  the  com 
panions  of  Reed  and  M'Kenzie  were  picked  men,  and  had 
found  provisions  more  abundant  on  their  side  of  the  river, 
they  were  in  better  condition,  and  more  fitted  to  contend  with 
the  difficulties  of  the  country,  than  those  of  Mr.  Crooks,  and 
when  he  lost  sight  of  them,  were  pushing  onward,  down  the 
course  of  the  river. 


230  ASTORIA. 

Mr.  Hunt  took  a  night  to  revolve  over  his  critical  situation, 
and  to  determine  what  was  to  be  done.  No  time  was  to  be 
lost ;  he  had  twenty  men  and  more  in  his  own  party  to  pro 
vide  for,  and  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  men  to  relieve.  To  linger 
would  be  to  starve.  The  idea  of  retracing  his  stens  was  intol 
erable,  and,  notwithstanding  all  the  discouraging  accounts  of 
the  ruggedness  of  the  mountains  lower  down  the  river,  he 
would  have  been  disposed  to  attempt  them.,  but  the  depth  of 
the  snow  with  which  they  were  covered  deterred  him ;  having 
already  experienced  the  impossibility  of  forcing  his  way  against 
such  an  impediment. 

The  only  alternative,  therefore,  appeared  to  be  to  return  and 
seek  the  Indian  bands  scattered  along  the  small  rivers  above 
the  mountains.  Perhaps  from  some  of  these  he  might  procure 
horses  enough  to  support  him  until  he  could  reach  the  Colum 
bia;  for  he  still  cherished  the  hope  of  arriving  at  that  river  in 
the  course  of  the  winter,  though  he  was  apprehensive  that 
few  of  Mr.  Crooks'  party  would  be  sufficiently  strong  to  follow 
him.  Even  in  adopting  this  course  he  had  to  make  up  his 
mind  to  the  certainty  of  several  days  of  famine  at  the  outset, 
for  it  would  take  that  time  to  reach  the  last  Indian  lodges 
from  which  he  had  parted,  and  until  they  should  arrive  there 
his  people  would  have  nothing  to  subsist  upon  but  haws  and 
wild  berries,  excepting  one  miserable  horse,  which  was  little 
better  than  skin  and  bone. 

After  a  night  of  sleepless  cogitation,  Mr.  Hunt  announced  to 
his  men  the  dreary  alternative  he  had  adopted,  and  prepara 
tions  were  made  to  take  Mr.  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  across  the 
river,  with  the  remainder  of  the  meat  as  the  other  party  were 
to  keep  up  along  the  opposite  bank.  The  skin  canoe  had  un 
fortunately  been  lost  in  the  night;  a  raft  was  constructed, 
therefore,  after  the  manner  of  the  natives,  of  bundles  of  wil 
lows,  but  it  could  not  be  floated  across  the  impetuous  current. 
The  men  were  directed,  in  consequence,  to  keep  on  along  the 
river  by  themselves,  while  Mr.  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  would  pro 
ceed  with  Mr.  Hunt.  They  all  then  took  up  their  retrograde 
march  with  drooping  spirits. 

In  a  little  while  it  was  found  that  Mr.  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc 
were  so  feeble  as  to  walk  with  difficulty,  so  that  Mr.  Hunt 
was  obliged  to  retard  his  pace,  that  they  might  keep  up  with 
him.  His  men  grew  impatient  at  the  delay.  They  murmured 
that  they  had  a  long  and  desolate  region  to  traverse,  before 
they  could  arrive  at  the  point  where  they  might  expect  to  find 


ASTORIA.  231 

horses;  that  it  was  impossible  for  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc,  in 
their  feeble  condition,  to  get  over  it ;  that  to  remain  with  them 
would  only  be  to  starve  in  their  company.  They  importuned 
Mr.  Hunt,  therefore,  to  leave  these  unfortunate  men  to  their 
fate,  and  think  only  of  the  safety  of  himself  and  his  party. 
Finding  him  not  to  be  moved,  either  by  entreaties  or  their 
clamors,  they  began  to  proceed  without  him,  singly  and  in 
parties.  Among  those  who  thus  went  off  was  Pierre  Dorion, 
the  interpreter.  Pierrj  owned  the  only  remaining  horse,  which 
was  now  a  mere  skeleton.  Mr.  Hunt  had  suggested,  in  their 
present  extremity,  that  it  should  be  killed  for  food ;  to  which 
the  half-breed  flatly  refused  his  assent,  and  cudgelling  the 
miserable  animal  forward,  pushed  on  sullenly,  with  the  air  of 
a  man  doggedly  determined  to  quarrel  for  his  light.  In  this 
way  Mr.  Hunt  saw  his  men,  one  after  another  break  away, 
until  but  five  remained  to  bear  him  company. 

On  the  following  morning  another  raft  was  made,  on  which 
Mr.  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  again  attempted  to  ferry  themselves 
across  the  river,  but  after  repeated  trials  had  to  give  up  in 
despair.  This  caused  additional  delay ;  after  which  they  con 
tinued  to  crawl  forward  at  a  snail1  s  pace.  Some  of  the  men 
who  had  remained  with  Mr.  Hunt  now  became  impatient  of 
these  incumbrances,  and  urged  him  clamorously  to  push  for 
ward,  crying  out  that  they  should  all  starve.  The  night  which 
succeeded  was  intensely  cold,  so  that  one  of  the  men  was 
severely  frost-bitten.  In  the  course  of  the  night  Mr.  Crooks 
was  taken  ill,  and  in  the  morning  was  still  more  incompetent 
to  travel.  Their  situation  was  now  desperate,  for  their  stock 
of  provisions  was  reduced  to  three  beaver-skins.  Mr.  Hunt, 
therefore,  resolved  to  push  on,  overtake  his  people,  and  insist 
upon  having  the  horse  of  Pierre  Dorion  sacrificed  for  the  relief 
of  all  hands.  Accordingly  he  left  two  of  his  men  to  help 
Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  on  their  way,  giving  them  two  of  the 
beaver  skins  for  their  support ;  the  remaining  skin  he  retained, 
as  provision  for  himself  and  the  three  other  men  who  struck 
forward  with  him. 


232  ASTORIA. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

ALL  that  day  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  three  comrades  travelled 
without  eating.  At  night  they  made  a  tantalizing  supper  on 
their  beaver  skin,  and  were  nearly  exhausted  by  hunger  and 
cold.  The  next  day,  December  10th,  they  overtook  the  ad 
vance  party,  who  were  all  as  much  famished  as  themselves, 
some  of  them  not  having  eaten  since  the  morning  of  the 
seventh.  Mr.  Hunt  now  proposed  the  sacrifice  of  Pierre 
Dorion's  skeleton  horse.  Here  he  again  met  with  positive 
and  vehement  opposition  from  the  half-breed,  who  was  too 
sullen  and  vindictive  a  fellow  to  be  easily  dealt  with.  What 
was  singular,  the  men,  though  suffering  such  pinching  hunger, 
interfered  in  favor  of  the  horse.  They  represented  that  it  was 
better  to  keep  on  as  long  as  possible  without  resorting  to  this 
last  resource.  Possibly  the  Indians,  of  whom  they  were  in 
quest,  might  have  shifted  their  encampment,  in  v/hich  case  it 
would  be  time  enough  to  kill  the  horse  to  escape  starvation. 
Mr.  Hunt,  therefore,  was  prevailed  upon  to  grant  Pierre 
Dorion's  horse  a  reprieve. 

Fortunately,  they  had  not  proceeded  much  farther,  when, 
toward  evening,  they  came  in  sight  of  a  lodge  of  Shoshonies, 
with  a  number  of  horses  grazing  around  it.  The  sight  was  as 
unexpected  as  it  was  joyous.  Having  seen  no  Indians  in  this 
neighborhood  as  they  passed  down  the  river,  they  must  have 
subsequently  come  out  from  among  the  mountains.  Mr. 
Hunt,  who  first  descried  them,  checked  the  eagerness  of  his 
companions,  knowing  the  unwillingness  of  these  Indians  to 
part  with  their  horses,  and  their  aptness  to  hurry  them  off 
and  conceal  them,  in  case  of  an  alarm.  This  was  no  time  to 
risk  such  a  disappointment.  Approaching,  therefore,  stealthily 
and  silently,  they  came  upon  the  savages  by  surprise,  who 
fled  in  terror.  Five  of  their  horses  were  eagerly  seized,  and 
one  was  dispatched  upon  the  spot.  The  carcass  was  imme 
diately  cut  up,  and  a  part  of  it  hastily  cooked  and  ravenously 
devoured.  A  man  was  now  sent  on  horseback  with  a  supply 
of  the  flesh  to  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  companions.  He  reached 
them  in  the  night;  they  were  so  famished  that  the  supply  sent 
them  seemed  but  to  aggravate  their  hunger,  and  they  were 


ASTORIA.  233 

almost  tempted  to  kill  and  eat  the  horse  that  had  brought  the 
messenger.  Availing  themselves  of  the  assistance  of  the  ani 
mal,  they  reached  the.  camp  early  in  the  morning. 

On  arriving  there,  Mr.  Crooks  was  shocked  to  find  that,  while 
the  people  on  this  side  of  the  river  were  amply  supplied  with 
provisions,  none  had  been  sent  to  his  own  forlorn  and  famish 
ing  men  on  the  opposite  bank.  He  immediately  caused  a  skin 
canoe  to  be  constructed,  and  called  out  to  his  men  to  fill  their 
camp-kettles  with  water  and  hang  them  over  .the  fire,  that  no 
time  might  be  lost  in  cooking  the  meat  the  moment  it  should 
be  received.  The  river  was  so  narrow,  though  deep,  that  every 
thing  could  be  distinctly  heard  and  seen  across  it.  The  kettles 
were  placed  on  the  fire,  and  the  water  was  boiling  by  the  time 
the  canoe  was  completed.  When  all  was  ready,  however,  no 
one  would  undertake  to  ferry  the  meat  across.  A  vague  and 
almost  superstitious  terror  had  infected  the  minds  of  Mr. 
Hunt's  followers,  enfeebled  and  rendered  imaginative  of  hor 
rors  by  the  dismal  scenes  and  sufferings  through  which  they 
had  passed.  They  regarded  th3  haggard  crew,  hovering  like 
spectres  of  famine  on  the  opposite  bank,  with  indefinite  feel 
ings  of  awe  and  apprehension,  as  if  something  desperate  and 
dangerous  was  to  be  feared  from  them. 

Mr.  Crooks  tried  in  vain  to  reason  or  shame  them  out  of  this 
singular  state  of  mind.  He  then  attempted  to  navigate  the 
canoe  himself,  but  found  his  strength  incompetent  to  brave 
the  impetuous  current.  The  good  feelings  of  Ben  Jones,  the 
Kentuckian,  at  length  overcame  his  fears,  and  he  ventured 
over.  The  supply  he  brought  was  received  with  trembling 
avidity.  A  poor  Canadian,  however,  named  Jean  Baptiste 
Prevost,  whom  famine  had  rendered  wild  and  desperate,  ran 
frantically  about  the  bank,  after  Jones  had  returned,  crying 
out  to  Mr.  Hunt  to  send  the  canoe  for  him,  and  take  him  from 
that  horrible  region  of  famine,  declaring  that  otherwise  he 
would  never  march  another  .step,  but  would  lie  down  there 
and  die. 

Thex  canoe  was  shortly  sent  over  again  under  the  manage 
ment  of  Joseph  Delaunay,  with  further  supplies.  Prevost 
immediately  pressed  forward  to  embark.  Delaunay  refused  to 
admit  him,  telling  him  that  there  was  now  a  sufficient  supply 
of  meat  on  his  side  of  the  river.  He  replied  that  it  was  not 
cooked,  and  he  should  starve  before  it  was  ready ;  he  implored, 
therefore,  to  be  taken  where  he  could  get  something  to  appease 
his  hunger  immediately.  Finding  the  canoe  putting  off  with- 


234  ASTORIA, 

out  him,  he  forced  himself  aboard.  As  he  drew  near  the 
opposite  shore,  and  beheld  meat  roasting  before  the  fire,  he 
jumped  up,  shouted,  clapped  his  hands,  and  danced  in  a  deli 
rium  of  joy,  until  he  upset  the  canoe.  The  poor  wretch  was 
swept  away  by  the  current  and  drowned,  and  it  was  with  ex 
treme  difficulty  that  Delaunay  reached  the  shore. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  sent  all  his  men  forward  excepting  two  or 
three.  In  the  evening  he  caused  another  horse  to  be  killed, 
and  a  canoe  to  be  made  out  of  the  skin,  in  which  he  sent  over 
a  further  supply  of  meat  to  the  opposite  party.  The  canoe 
brought  back  John  Day,  the  Kentucky  hunter,  who  came  to 
join  his  former  employer  and  commander,  Mr.  Crooks.  Poor 
Day,  once  so  active  and  vigorous,  was  now  reduced  to  a  condi 
tion  even  more  feeble  and  emaciated  than  his  companions. 
Mr.  Crooks  had  such  a  value  for  the  man,  on  account  of  his 
past  services  and  faithful  character,  that  he  determined  not  to 
quit  him ;  he  exhorted  Mr.  Hunt,  however,  to  proceed  forward, 
and  join  the  party,  as  his  presence  was  all  important  to  the 
conduct  of  the  expedition.  One  of  the  Canadians,  Jean  Bap- 
tiste  Dubreuil,  likewise  remained  with  Mr.  Crooks. 

Mr.  Hunt  left  two  horses  with  them,  and  a  part  of  the  car 
cass  of  the  last  that  had  been  killed.  This,  he  hoped,  would  be 
sufficient  to  sustain  them  until  they  should  reach  the  Indian 
encampment. 

One  of  the  chief  dangers  attending  the  enfeebled  condition 
of  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  companions  was  their  being  overtaken 
by  the  Indians  whose  horses  had  been  seized,  though  Mr.  Hunt 
hoped  that  he  had  guarded  against  any  resentment  on  the  part 
of  the  savages,  by  leaving  various  articles  in  their  lodge,  more 
than  sufficient  to  compensate  for  the  outrage  he  had  been  com 
pelled  to  commit. 

Eesuming  his  onward  course,  Mr.  Hunt  came  up  with  his 
people  in  the  evening.  The  next  day,  December  13th,  he  be 
held  several  Indians,  with  three  horses,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  and  after  a  time  came  to  the  two  lodges  which  he 
had  seen  on  going  down.  Here  he  endeavored  in  vain  to 
barter  a  rifle  for  a  horse,  but  again  succeeded  in  effecting  the 
purchase  with  an  old  tin  kettle,  aided  by  a  few  beads. 

The  two  succeeding  days  were  cold  and  stormy ;  the  snow 
was  augmenting,  and  there  was  a  good  deal  of  ice  running  in 
the  river.  Their  road,  however,  was  becoming  easier;  they 
were  getting  out  of  the  hills,  and  finally  emerged  into  the  open 
country,  after  twenty  days  of  fatigue,  famine,  and  hardship  of 


ASTORIA.  235 

every  kind,  in  the  ineffectual  attempt  to  find  a  passage  down 
the  river. 

They  now  encamped  on  a  little  willowed  stream,  running 
from  the  east,  which  they  had  crossed  on  the  26th  of  Novem 
ber.  Here  they  found  a  dozen  lodges  of  Shoshonies,  recently 
arrived,  who  informed  them  that  had  they  persevered  along 
the  river,  they  would  have  found  their  difficulties  augment 
until  they  became  absolutely  insurmountable.  This  intelli 
gence  added  to  the  anxiety  of  Mr.  Hunt  for  the  fate  of  Mr. 
M'Kenzie  and  his  people,  who  had  kept  on. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  followed  up  the  little  river,  and  encamped  at 
some  lodges  of  Shoshonies,  from  whom  he  procured  a  couple 
of  horses,  a  dog,  a  few  dried  fish,  and  some  roots  and  dried 
cherries.  Two  or  three  days  were  exhausted  in  obtaining  in 
formation  about  the  route,  and  what  time  it  would  take  to  get 
to  the  Sciat)gas,  a  hospitable  tribe  on  the  west  side  of  the 
mountains,  represented  as  having  many  horses.  The  replies 
were  various,  but  concurred  in  saying  that  the  distance  was 
great,  and  would  occupy  from  seventeen  to  twenty-one  nights. 
Mr.  Hunt  then  tried  to  procure  a  guide ;  but  though  he  sent  to 
various  lodges  up  and  down  the  river,  offering  articles  of  great 
value  in  Indian  estimation,  no  one  would  venture.  The  snow, 
they  said,  was  waist  deep  in  the  mountains;  and  to  all  his 
offers  they  shook  their  heads,  gave  a  shiver,  and  replied,  "  We 
shall  freeze !  we  shall  freeze !"  At  the  same  time  they  urged 
him  to  remain  and  pass  the  winter  among  them. 

Mr.  Hunt  was  in  a  dismal  dilemma.  To  attempt  tht  moun 
tains  without  a  guide  would  be  certain  death  to  him  and  all  his 
people ;  to  remain  there,  after  having  already  been  so  long  on 
the  journey,  and  at  such  great  expense,  was  worse  to  him,  he 
said,  than  "two  deaths."  He  now  changed  his  tone  with  the 
Indians,  charged  them  with  deceiving  him  in  respect  to  the 
mountains,  and  talking  with  a  "forked  tongue,"  or,  in  other 
words,  with  lying.  He  upbraided  them  with  their  want  of 
courage,  and  told  them  they  were  women,  to  shrink  from  the 
perils  of  such  a  journey.  At  length  one  of  them,  piqued  by  his 
taunts,  or  tempted  by  his  offers,  agreed  to  be  his  guide ;  for 
which  he  was  to  receive  a  gun,  a  pistol,  three  knives,  two 
horses,  and  a  little  of  every  article  in  possession  of  the  party ; 
a  reward  sufficient  to  make  him  one  of  the  wealthiest  of  his 
vagabond  nation. 

Once  more,  than,  on  the  21st  of  December,  they  set  out  upon 
their  way  faring  with  newly  excited  spirits.  Two  other  Indiana 


236  ASTORIA 

accompanied  their  guide,  who  led  them  immediately  back  to 
Snake  River,  which  they  followed  down  for  a  short  distance, 
in  search  of  some  Indian  rafts  made  of  reeds,  on  which  they 
might  cross.  Finding  none,  Mr.  Hunt  caused  a  horse  to  be 
killed  and  a  canoe  to  be  made  out  of  its  skin.  Here,  on  the 
opposite  bank,  they  saw  the  thirteen  men  of  Mr.  Crooks'  party, 
who  had  continued  up  along  the  river.  They  told  Mr.  Hunt, 
across  the  stream,  that  they  had  not  seen  Mr.  Crooks,  and  the 
two  men  who  had  remained  with  him,  since  the  day  that  he 
had  separated  from  them. 

The  canoe  proving  too  small,  another  horse  was  killed,  and 
the  skin  of  it  joined  to  that  of  the  first.  Night  came  on  before 
the  little  bark  had  made  more  than  two  voyages.  Being  badly 
mado,  it  was  taken  apart  and  put  together  again,  by  the  light 
of  the  fire.  The  night  was  cold ;  the  men  were  weary  and  dis 
heartened  with  such  varied  and  incessant  toil  and  hardship. 
They  crouched,  dull  and  drooping,  around  their  fires ;  many  of 
them  began  to  express  a  wish  to  remain  where  they  were  for 
the  winter.  The  very  necessity  of  crossing  the  river  dismayed 
some  of  them  in  their  present  enfeebled  and  dejected  state. 
It  was  rapid  and  turbulent,  and  filled  with  floating  ice,  and 
they  remembered  that  two  of  their  comrades  had  already  per 
ished  in  its  waters.  Others  looked  forward  with  misgivings  to 
the  long  and  dismal  journey  through  lonesome  regions  that 
awaited  them,  when  they  should  have  passed  this  dreary  flood. 

At  an  early  hour  of  the  morning,  December  23d,  they  began 
to  cross  the  river.  Much  ice  had  formed  during  the  night,  and 
they  were  obliged  to  break  it  for  some  distance  on  each  shore. 
At  length  they  all  got  over  in  safety  to  the  west  side :  and 
their  spirits  rose  on  having  achieved  this  perilous  passage. 
Here  they  were  rejoined  by  the  people  of  Mr.  Crooks,  who  had 
with  them  a  horse  and  a  dog,  which  they  had  recently  pro 
cured;  The  poor  fellows  were  in  the  most  squalid  and  ema 
ciated  state.  Three  of  them  were  so  completely  prostrated  in 
strength  and  spirits  that  they  expressed  a  wish  to  remain 
among  the  Snakes.  Mr.  Hunt,  therefore,  gave  them  the  canoe, 
that  they  might  cross  the  river,  and  a  few  articles,  with  which 
to  procure  necessaries  until  they  should  meet  with  Mr.  Crooks. 
There  was  another  man,  named  Michael  Carriere,  who  was  al 
most  equally  reduced,  but  he  determined  to  proceed  with  his 
comrades,  who  were  now  incorporated  with  the  party  of  Mr. 
Hunt.  After  the  day's  exertions  they  encamped  together  on 
the  banks  of  the  river.  This  was  the  last  night  they  wore  to 


ASTORIA.  237 

spend  upon  its  borders.  More  than  eight  hundred  miles  of 
hard  travelling  and  many  weary  days  had  it  cost  them,  and 
the  sufferings  connected  with  it  rendered  it  hateful  in  their  re 
membrance,  so  that  the  Canadian  voyageurs  always  spoke  of 
it  as  "  La  maudite  riviere  enragee  " — the  accursed  mad  river, 
thus  coupling  a  malediction  with  its  r.ame. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

ON  the  24th  of  December,  all  things  being  arranged,  Mr. 
Hunt  turned  his  back  upon  the  disastrous  banks  of  Snake 
River,  and  struck  his  course  westward  for  the  mountains.  His 
party,  being  augmented  by  the  late  followers  of  Mr.  Crooks, 
amounted  now  to  thirty-two  white  men,  three  Indians,  and 
the  squaw  and  two  children  of  Pierre  Dorion.  Five  jaded, 
half-starved  horses  were  laden  with  their  luggage,  and,  in  case 
of  need,  were  to  furnish  them  with  provisions.  They  travelled 
painfully  about  fourteen  miles  a  day,  over  plains  and  among 
hills,  rendered  dreary  by  occasional  falls  of  snow  and  rain. 
Their  only  sustenance  was  a  scanty  meal  of  horse-flesh  once  in 
four-and-twenty  hours. 

On  the  third  day  the  poor  Canadian,  Carriere,  one  of  the 
famished  party  of  Mr.  Crooks,  gave  up  in  despair,  and  lying 
down  upon  the  ground  declared  he  could  go  no  farther.  Ef 
forts  were  made  to  cheer  him  up,  but  it  was  found  that  the 
poor  fellow  was  absolutely  exhausted  and  could  not  keep  on 
his  legs.  He  was  mounted,  therefore,  upon  one  of  the  horses, 
though  the  forlorn  animal  was  in  little  better  plight  than 
himself. 

On  the  28th  they  came  upon  a  small  stream  winding  to  the 
north,  through  &  fLie  level  valley,  the  mountains  receding  on 
each  side.  Here  their  Indian  friends  pointed  out  a  chain  of 
woody  mountains  to  the  left,  running  north  and  south,  and 
covered  with  snow,  over  which  they  would  have  to  pass.  They 
kept  along  the  valley  for  twenty -one  miles  on  the  29th,  suffer 
ing  much  from  a  continued  fall  of  snow  and  rain,  and  being 
twice  obliged  to  ford  the  icy  stream.  Early  in  the  following 
morning  the  squaw  of  Pierre  Dorion,  who  had  hitherto  kept 
on  without  murmuring  or  flinching,  was  suddenly  taken  in 
labor,  and  enriched  her  husband  with  another  child.  As  the 


238  ASTORIA. 

fortitude  and  good  conduct  of  the  poor  woman  had  gained  for 
her  the  good  will  of  the  party,  her  situation  caused  concern 
and  perplexity.  Pierre,  however,  treated  the  matter  as  an  oc 
currence  that  could  soon  be  arranged  and  need  cause  no  delay. 
He  remained  by  his  wife  in  the  camp,  with  his  other  children 
and  his  horse,  and  promised  soon  to  rejoin  the  main  body,  who 
proceeded  on  their  march. 

Finding  that  the  little  river  entered  the  mountains,  they 
abandoned  it,  and  turned  off  for  a  few  miles  among  hills. 
Here  another  Canadian,  named  La  Bonte,  gave  out,  and  had 
to  be  helped  on  horseback.  As  the  horse  was  too  weak  to  bcai 
both  him  and  his  pack,  Mr.  Hunt  took  the  latter  upon  his  OWE 
shoulders.  Thus,  with  difficulties  augmenting;  at  every  step, 
they  urged  their  toilsome  way  among  the  hills,  half  famished 
and  faint  at  heart,  when  they  came  to  where  a  fair  valley 
spread  out  before  them  of  great  extent,  and  several  leagues  in 
width,  with  a  beautiful  stream  meandering  through  it.  A 
genial  climate  seemed  to  prevail  here,  for  though  the  snow 
lay  upon  all  the  mountains  within  sight,  there  was  none  to  be 
seen  in  the  valley.  The  travellers  gazed  with  delight  upon  {his 
serene,  sunny  landscape,  but  their  joy  was  complete  on  behold 
ing  six  lodges  of  Shoshonies  pitched  upon  the  borders  of  the 
stream,  with  a  number  of  horses  and  dogs  about  them.  They 
all  pressed  forward  with  eagerness  and  soon  reached  the  camp. 
Here  their  first  attention  was  to  obtain  provisions.  A  rifle,  an 
old  musket,  a  tomahawk,  a  tin  kettle,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
ammunition  soon  procured  them  four  horses,  three  dogs,  and 
some  roots.  Part  of  the  live  stock  was  immediately  killed, 
cooked  with  all  expedition,  and  as  promptly  devoured.  A 
hearty  meal  restored  every  one  to  good  spirits.  In  the  course 
of  the  following  morning  the  Dorion  family  made  its  reappear 
ance.  Pierre  came  trudging  in  the  advance,  followed  by  his 
valued,  though  skeleton  steed,  on  which  was  mounted  his 
squaw  with  the  new-born  infant  in  her  arms,  and  her  boy  of 
two  years  old  wrapped  in  a  blanket  and  slung  at  her  side. 
The  mother  looked  as  unconcerned  as  if  nothing  had  happened 
to  her;  so  easy  is  nature  in  her  operations  in  the  wilderness, 
when  free  from  the  enfeebling  refinements  of  luxury,  and  the 
tamperings  and  appliances  of  art. 

The  next  morning  ushered  in  the  new  year  (1812).  Mr.  Hunt 
was  about  to  resume  his  march  when  his  men  requested  per 
mission  to  celebrate  the  day.  This  was  particularly  urged 
by  the  Canadian  voyageurs.  with  whom  new-year's  day  is  a 


ASTORIA.  23$ 

favorite  festival,  and  who  never  willingly  give  up  a  holiday, 
under  any  circumstances.  There  was  no  resisting  such  an 
application ;  so  the  day  was  passed  in  repose  and  revelry ;  the 
poor  Canadians  contrived  to  sing  and  dance  in  defiance  of  all 
their  hardships,  and  there  was  a  sumptuous  new-year's  ban 
quet  of  dog's-meat  and  horse-flesh. 

After  two  days  of  welcome  rest  the  travellers  addressed 
themselves  once  more  to  their  painful  journey.  The  Indians 
of  the  lodges  pointed  out  a  distant  gap  through  which  they 
must  pass  in  traversing  the  ridge  of  mountains.  They  assured 
them  that  they  would  be  but  little  incommoded  by  snow,  and 
in  three  days  would  arrive  among  the  Sciatogas.  Mr,  Hunt, 
however,  had  been  so  frequently  deceived  by  Indian  accounts 
of  routes  and  distances,  that  he  gave  but  little  faith  to  this> 
information. 

The  travellers  continued  their  course  due  west  for  five  days, 
crossing  the  valley  and  entering  the  mountains.  Here  the 
travelling  became  excessively  toilsome,  across  rough  stony 
ridges,  and  amid  fallen  trees.  They  were  often  knee  deep  in 
snow,  and  sometimes  in  the  holloAvs  between  the  ridges  sank 
up  to  their  waists.  The  weather  was  extremely  cold,  the  sky 
covered  with  clouds,  so  that  for  days  they  had  not  a  glimpse  of 
the  sun.  In  traversing  the  highest  ridge  they  had  a  wide  but 
chilling  prospect  over  a  wilderness  of  snowy  mountains. 

On  the  6th  of  January,  however,  they  had  crossed  the  divid 
ing  summit  of  the  chain,  and  were  evidently  under  the  influ 
ence  of  a  milder  climate.  The  snow  began  to  decrease,  the  sun 
once  more  emerged  from  the  thick  canopy  of  clouds,  and  shone 
cheeringly  upon  them,  and  they  caught  a  sight  of  what  ap 
peared  to  be  a  plain  stretching  out  in  the  west.  They  hailed  it 
as  the  poor  Israelites  hailed  the  first  glimpse  of  the  promised 
land,  for  they  flattered  themselves  that  this  might  be  the  great 
plain  of  the  Columbia,  and  that  their  painful  pilgrimage  might 
be  drawing  to  a  close. 

It  was  now  five  days  since  they  had  left  the  lodges  of  the 
Shoshonies,  during  which  they  had  come  about  sixty  miles,  and 
their  guide  assured  them  that  in  the  course  of  the  next  day 
they  would  see  the  Sciatogas. 

On  the  following  morning,  therefore,  they  pushed  forward 
with  eagerness,  and  soon  fell  upon  a  small  stream  which  led 
them  through  a  deep,  narrow  defile,  between  stupendous  ridges. 
Here  among  the  rocks  and  precipices  they  saw  gangs  of  that 
mountain-loving  animal,  the  black-tailed  deer,  and  came  to 


240  ASTORIA, 

where  great  tracks  of  horses  were  to  be  seen  in  all  directions, 
made  by  the  Indian  hunters. 

The  snow  had  entirely  disappeared,  and  the  hopes  of  soon 
coming  upon  some  Indian  encampment  induced  Mr.  Hunt  to 
press  on.  Many  of  the  men,  however,  were  so  enfeebled  that 
they  could  not  keep  up  with  the  main  body,  but  lagged,  at  in 
tervals,  behind,  and  some  of  them  did  not  arrive  at  the  night 
encampment.  In  the  course  of  this  day's  march  the  recently 
born  child  of  Pierre  Dorion  died. 

The  march  was  resumed  early  the  next  morning,  without 
waiting  for  the  stragglers.  The  stream  which  they  had  followed 
throughout  the  preceding  day  was  now  swollen  by  the  influx  of 
another  river ;  the  declivities  of  the  hills  were  green  and  the 
valleys  were  clothed  with  grass.  At  length  the  jovial  cry  was 
given  of  "an  Indian  camp !"  It  was  yet  in  the  distance,  in  the 
bosom  of  the  green  valley,  but  they  could  perceive  that  it  con 
sisted  of  numerous  lodges,  and  that  hundreds  of  horses  were 
grazing  the  grassy  meadows  around  it.  The  prospect  of  abun 
dance  of  horse-nesh  diffused  universal  joy,  for  by  this  time 
the  whole  stock  of  travelling  provisions  was  reduced  to  the 
skeleton  steed  of  Pierre  Dorion,  and  another  wretched  animal, 
equally  emaciated,  that  had  been  repeatedly  reprieved  during 
the  journey. 

A  forced  march  soon  brought  the  weary  and  hungry  travel 
lers  to  the  camp.  It  proved  to  be  a  strong  party  of  Sciatogas 
and  Tus-che-pas.  There  were  thirty-four  lodges,  comfortably 
constructed  of  mats;  the  Indians,  too,  were  better  clothed 
than  any  of  the  wandering  bands  they  had  hitherto  met  on 
this  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Indeed  they  were  as  well 
clad  as  the  generality  of  the  wild  hunter  tribes.  Each  had  a 
good  buffalo  or  deer  skin  robe ;  and  a  deer  skin  hunter  shirt 
and  leggins.  Upward  of  two  thousand  horses  were  ranging  the 
pastures  around  their  encampment;  but  what  delighted  Mr. 
Hunt  was,  on  entering  the  lodges,  to  behold  brass  kettles,  axes, 
copper  tea-kettles,  and  various  other  articles  of  civilized  man 
ufacture,  which  showed  that  these  Indians  had  an  indirect 
communication  with  the  people  of  the  sea-coast  who  traded 
with  the  whites.  He  made  eager  inquiries  of  the  Sciatogas, 
and  gathered  from  them  that  the  great  river  (the  Columbia), 
was  but  two  days'  march  distant,  and  that  several  white  people 
had  recently  descended  it,  who  he  hoped  might  prove  to  be 
M'Lellan,  M'Kenzie,  and  their  companions. 

It  was  with  the  utmost  joy,  and  the  most  profound  gratitude 


ASTORIA.  241 

to  Heaven,  that  Mr.  Hunt  found  himself  and  his  band  of  weary 
and  famishing  wanderers,  thus  safely  extricated  from  the  most 
perilous  part  of  their  long  journey,  and  within  the  prospect  of 
a  termination  of  their  toils.  All  the  stragglers,  who  had. 
lagged  behind,  arrived,  one  after  another,  excepting  the  poor 
Canadian  voyageur,  Carriere.  He  had  been  seen  late  in  the 
preceding  afternoon,  riding  behind  a  Snake  Indian,  near  some 
lodges  of  that  nation,  a  few  miles  distant  from  the  last  night's 
encampment,  and  it  was  expected  that  he  woulc1  soon  make  hib 
appearance. 

The  first  object  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  to  obtain  provisions  for  his 
men.  A  little  venison,  of  an  indifferent  quality,  and  some 
roots  were  all  that  could  be  procured  that  evening;  but  the 
next  day  he  succeeded  in  purchasing  a  mare  and  colt,  which 
were  immediately  killed,  and  the  cravings  of  the  half-starved 
people  in  some  degree  appeased. 

For  several  days  they  remained  in  the  neighborhood  of  these 
Indians,  reposing  after  all  their  hardships,  and  feasting  upon 
horse-flesh  and  roots,  obtained  in  subsequent  traffic.  Many  of 
the  people  ate  to  such  excess  as  to  render  themselves  sick, 
others  were  lame  from  their  past  journey ;  but  all  gradually 
recruited  in  the  repose  qnd  abundance  of  the  valley.  Horses 
were  obtained  here  much  more  readily  and  at  a  cheaper  rate 
than  among  the  Snakes.  A  blanket,  a  knife,  or  a  half  pound 
of  blue  beads  would  purchase  a  steed,  and  at  this  rate  many  of 
the  men  bought  horses  for  their  individual  use. 

This  tribe  of  Indians,  who  are  represented  as  a  proud-spirited 
race,  and  uncommonly  cleanly,  never  eat  horses  nor  dogs,  nor 
would  they  permit  the  raw  flesh  of  either  to  be  brought  into 
their  huts.  They  had  a  small  quantity  of  venison  in  each 
lodge,  but  set  so  high  a  price  upon  it  that  the  white  men,  in 
their  impoverished  state,  could  not  afford  to  purchase  it.  They 
hunted  the  deer  on  horseback,  "ringing,"  or  surrounding 
them,  and  running  them  down  in  a  circle.  They  were  admi 
rable  horsemen,  and  their  weapons  were  bows  and  arrows, 
which  they  managed  with  great  dexterity.  They  were  alto 
gether  primitive  in  their  habits,  and  seemed  to  cling  to  the 
usages  of  savage  life,  even  when  possessed  of  the  aids  of  civili 
zation.  They  had  axes  among  them,  yet  they  generally  made 
use  of  a  stone  mallet  wrought  into  the  shape  of  a  bottle,  and 
wedges  of  elk-horn,  in  splitting  their  wood.  Though  they 
might  have  two  or  three  brass  kettles  hanging  in  their  lodges, 
yet  they  would  frequently  use  vessels  made  of  willow,  for 


242  ASTORIA. 

carrying  water,  and  would  even  boil  their  meat  in  them,  by 
means  of  hot  stones.  Their  women  wore  caps  of  willow  neatly 
worked  and  figured. 

As  Carriere,  the  Canadian  straggler,  did  not  make  his  appear 
ance  for  two  or  three  days  after  the  encampment  in  the  valley, 
two  men  were  sent  out  on  horseback  in  search  of  him.  They 
returned,  however,  without  success.  The  lodges  of  the  Snake 
Indians  near  which  he  had  been  seen  were  removed,  and  they 
could  find  110  trace  of  him.  Several  days  more  elapsed,  yet 
nothing  was  seen  or  heard  of  him,  or  of  the  Snake  horseman, 
behind  whom  he  had  been  last  observed.  It  was  feared,  there 
fore,  that  he  had  either  perished  through  hunger  and  fatigue ; 
had  been  murdered  by  the  Indians ;  or,  being  left  to  himself, 
had  mistaken  some  hunting  tracks  for  the  trail  of  the  party, 
and  been  led  astray  and  lost. 

The  river  on  the  banks  of  which  they  were  encamped,  emp 
tied  into  the  Columbia,  was  called  by  the  natives  the  Eu-o-tal- 
la,  or  Umatalla,  and  abounded  with  beaver.  In  the  course  of 
their  sojourn  in  the  valley  which  it  watered,  they  twice  shifted 
their  camp,  proceeding  about  thirty  miles  down  its  course, 
which  was  to  the  west.  A  heavy  fall  of  rain  caused  the  river 
to  overflow  its  banks,  dislodged  them  from  their  encampment, 
and  drowned  three  of  their  horses,  which  were  tethered  in  the 
low  ground. 

Further  conversation  with  the  Indians  satisfied  them  that 
they  were  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Columbia.  The  number 
of  the  white  men  who  they  said  had  passed  down  the  river, 
agreed  with  that  of  M'Lellan,  M'Kenzie,  and  their  companions, 
and  increased  the  hope  of  Mr.  Hunt  that  they  might  have 
passed  through  the  wilderness  with  safety. 

These  Indians  had  a  vague  story  that  white  men  were  coming 
to  trade  among  them ;  and  they  often  spoke  of  two  great  men 
named  Ke-Koosh  and  Jacquean,  who  gave  them  tobacco,  and 
smoked  with  them.  Jacquean,  they  said,  had  a  house  some 
where  upon  the  great  river.  Some  of  the  Canadians  supposed 
they  were  speaking  of  one  Jacquean  Finlay,  a  clerk  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  and  inferred  that  the  house  must  be  some 
trading  post  on  one  of  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Columbia. 
The  Indians  were  overjoyed  when  they  found  this  band  of 
white  men  intended  to  return  and  trade  with  them.  They 
promised  to  use  all  diligence  in  collecting  quantities  of  beaver 
skins,  and  no  doubt  proceeded  to  make  deadly  war  upon  that 
sagacious,  but  ill-fated  animal,  who,  in  general,  lived  in  peace- 


ASTORIA.  243 

ful  insignificance  among  his  Indian  neighbors,  before  the  intru 
sion  of  the  white  trader.  On  the  20th  of  January,  Mr.  Hunt 
took  leave  of  these  friendly  Indians,  and  of  the  river  on  which 
they  were  encamped,  and  continued  westward. 

At  length,  on  the  following  day,  the  wayworn  travellers 
lifted  up  their  eyes  and  beheld  before  them  the  long-sought 
waters  of  the  Columbia.  The  sight  was  hailed  with  as  much 
transport  as  if  they  had  already  reached  the  end  of  their  pil 
grimage  ;  nor  can  we  wonder  at  their  joy.  Two  hundred  and 
forty  miles  had  they  marched,  through  wintry  wastes  and 
.rugged  mountains,  since  leaving  Snake  River ;  and  six  months 
of  perilous  wayfaring  had  they  experienced  since  their  depart 
ure  from  the  Arickara  village  on  the  Missouri.  Their  whole 
route  by  land  and  water  from  that  point  had  been,  according  to 
their  computation,  seventeen  hundred  and  fifty-one  miles,  in  the 
course  of  which  they  had  endured  all  kinds  of  hardships.  In 
fact,  the  necessity  of  avoiding  the  dangerous  country  of  the 
Blackfeet  had  obliged  them  to  make  a  bend  to  the  south,  and 
to  traverse  a  great  additional  extent  of  unknown  wilderness. 

The  place  where  they  struck  the  Columbia  was  some  distance 
below  the  junction  of  its  two  great  branches,  Lewis  and  Clarke 
Rivers,  and  not  far  from  the  influx  of  the  Wallah- Wallah.  It 
was  a  beautiful  stream,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  totally 
free  from  trees ;  bordered  in  some  places  with  steep  rocks,  in 
others  with  pebbled  shores. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  they  found  a  miserable  horde 
of  Indians,  called  Akai-chies,  with  no  clothing  but  a  scanty 
mantle  of  the  skins  of  animals,  and  sometimes  a  pair  of  sleeves 
of  wolf's  skin.  Their  lodges  were  shaped  like  a  tent,  and  very 
tight  and  warm,  being  covered  with  mats  of  rushes;  beside 
which  they  had  excavations  on  the  ground,  lined  with  mats, 
and  occupied  by  the  women,  who  were  even  more  slightly  clad 
than  the  men.  These  people  subsisted  chiefly  by  fishing ;  hav 
ing  canoes  of  a  rude  construction,  being  merely  the  trunks  of 
pine  trees  split  and  hollowed  out  by  fire.  Their  lodges  were 
well  stored  with  dried  salmon,  and  they  had  great  quantities 
of  fresh  salmon  trout  of  an  excellent  flavor,  taken  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Umatalla ;  of  which  the  travellers  obtained  a  most  ac 
ceptable  supply. 

Finding  that  the  road  was  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  Mr. 
Hunt  crossed,  and  continued  five  or  six  days  travelling  rather 
slowly  down  along  its  banks,  being  much  delayed  by  the  stray 
ing  of  the  horses,  and  the  attempts  made  by  the  Indians  to 


244  AS  TOIU  A. 

steal  them.  They  frequently  passed  lodges,  where  they  ob 
tained  fish  and  dogs.  At  one  place  the  natives  had  just  re 
turned  from  hunting,  and  had  brought  back  a  large  quantity 
of  elk  and  deer  meat,  but  asked  so  high  a  price  for  it  as  to  be 
beyond  the  funds  of  the  travellers,  so  they  had  to  content 
themselves  with  dog's  flesh.  They  had  by  this  time,  however, 
come  to  consider  it  very  choice  food,  superior  to  horse  flesh, 
and  the  minutes  of  the  expedition  speak  rather  exultingly  now 
and  then,  of  their  having  made  a  ' '  famous  repast, "  where  this 
viand  happened  to  be  unusually  plenty. 

They  again  learnt  tidings  of  some  of  the  scattered  members 
of  the  expedition,  supposed  to  be  M'Kenzie,  M'Lellan,  and  their 
men,  who  had  preceded  them  down  the  river,  and  had  over 
turned  one  of  their  canoes,  by  which  they  lost  many  articles. 
All  these  floating  pieces  of  intelligence  of  their  fellow  adven 
turers,  who  had  separated  from  them  in  the  heart  of  the  wil 
derness,  they  received  with  eager  interest. 

The  weather  continued  to  be  temperate,  marking  the  superior 
softness  of  the  climate  on  this  side  of  the  mountains.  For  a 
great  part  of  the  time,  the  days  were  delightfully  mild  and  clear, 
like  the  serene  days  of  October,  on  the  Atlantic  borders.  The 
country  in  general,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  river,  was  a 
continual  plain,  low  near  the  water,  but  rising  gradually ;  des 
titute  of  trees,  and  almost  without  shrubs  or  plants  of  any 
kind,  excepting  a  few  willow  bushes.  After  travelling  about 
sixty  miles,  they  came  to  where  the  country  became  very 
hilly  and  the  river  made  its  way  between  rocky  banks  and 
down  numerous  rapids.  The  Indians  in  this  vicinity  were 
better  clad  and  altogether  in  more  prosperous  condition  than 
those  above,  and,  as  Mr.  Hunt  thought,  showed  their  con 
sciousness  of  ease  by  something  like  sauciness  of  manner. 
Thus  prosperity  is  apt  to  produce  arrogance  in  savage  as  well 
as  in  civilized  life.  In  both  conditions  man  is  an  animal  that 
will  not  bear  pampering. 

From  these  people  Mr.  Hunt  for  the  first  time  received  vague 
but  deeply  interesting  intelligence  of  that  part  of  the  enterprise 
which  had  proceeded  by  sea  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  The 
Indians  spoke  of  a  number  of  white  men  who  had  built  a  large 
house  at  the  mouth  of  the  great  river,  and  surrounded  it  with 
palisades.  None  of  them  had  been  down  to  Astoria  themselves ; 
but  rumors  spread  widely  and  rapidly  from  mouth  to  mouth 
among  the  Indian  tribes,  and  are  carried  to  the  heart  of  the 
interior,  by  hunting  paities  and  migratory  hordes. 


ASTORIA.  245 

The  establishment  of  a  trading  emporium  at  such  a  point, 
also,  was  calculated  to  cause  a  sensation  to  the  most  remote 
parts  of  the  vast  wilderness  beyond  the  mountains.  It,  in  a 
manner,  struck  the  pulse  of  the  great  vital  river,  and  vibrated 
up  all  its  tributary  streams. 

It  is  surprising  to  notice  how  well  this  remote  tribe  of  sav 
ages  had  learnt,  through  intermediate  gossips,  the  private  feel 
ings  of  the  colonists  at  Astoria ;  it  shows  that  Indians  are  not 
the  incurious  and  indifferent  observers  that  they  have  been 
represented.  They  told  Mr.  Hunt  that  the  white  people  at  the 
large  house  had  been  looking  anxiously  for  many  of  their 
friends,  whom  they  had  expected  to  descend  the  great  river ; 
and  had  been  in  much  affliction,  fearing  that  they  were  lost. 
Now,  however,  the  arrival  of  him  and  his  party  would  wipe 
away  all  their  tears,  and  they  would  dance  and  sing  for  joy. 

On  the  31st  of  January,  Mr.  Hunt  arrived  at  the  falls  of  the 
Columbia,  and  encamped  at  the  village  of  Wish-ram,  situated 
at  the  head  of  that  dangerous  pass  of  the  river  called  "the 
long  narrows." 


CHAPTEE  XXXVIII. 

OF  the  village  of  Wish-ram,  the  aborigines'  fishing  mart  of 
the  Columbia,  we  have  given  some  account  in  an  early  chapter 
of  this  work.  The  inhabitants  held  a  traffic  in  the  productions 
of  the  fisheries  of  the  falls,  and  their  village  was  the  trading 
resort  of  the  tribes  from  the  coast  and  from  the  mountains. 
Mr.  Hunt  found  the  inhabitants  shrewder  and  more  intelligent 
than  any  Indians  he  had  met  with.  Trade  had  sharpened 
their  wits,  though  it  had  not  improved  their  honesty ;  for  they 
were  a  community  of  arrant  rogues  and  freebooters.  Their 
habitations  comported  with  their  circumstances,  and  were  su 
perior  to  any  the  travellers  had  yet  seen  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  In  general  the  dwellings  of  the  savages  on  the 
Pacific  side  of  that  great  barrier,  were  mere  tents  and  cabins 
of  mats,  or  skins,  or  straw,  the  country  being  destitute  of  tim 
ber.  In  Wish-ram,  on  the  contrary,  the  houses  were  built  of 
wood,  with  long  sloping  roofs.  The  floor  was  sunk  about  six 
feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  with  a  low  door  at  the 
gable  end,  extremely  narrow,  and  partly  sunk.  Through  this 


246  ASTORIA. 

it  was  necessary  to  crawl,  and  then  to  descend  a  short  ladder. 
This  inconvenient  entrance  was  probably  for  the  purpose  of 
defence ;  there  were  loop-holes  also  under  the  eaves,  apparently 
for  the  discharge  of  arrows.  The  houses  were  large,  generally 
containing  two  or  three  families.  Immediately  within  the 
door  were  sleeping  places,  ranged  along  the  walls,  like  berths 
in  a  ship ;  and  furnished  with  pallets  of  matting.  These  ex 
tended  along  one-half  of  the  building ;  the  remaining  half  was 
appropriated  to  the  storing  of  dried  fish. 

The  trading  operations  of  the  inhabitants  of  Wish-ram  had 
given  them  a  wider  scope  of  information,  and  rendered  their 
village  a  kind  of  headquarters  of  intelligence.  Mr.  Hunt  was 
able,  therefore,  to  collect  more  distinct  tidings  concerning  the 
settlement  of  Astoria  and  its  affairs.  One  of  the  inhabitants 
had  been  at  the  trading  post  established  by  David  Stuart,  on 
the  Oakinagan,  and  had  picked  up  a  few  words  of  English 
there.  From  him,  Mr.  Hunt  gleaned  various  particulars  about 
that  establishment,  as  well  as  about  the  general  concerns  of  the 
enterprise.  Others  repeated  the  name  of  Mr.  M'Kay,  the  part 
ner  who  perished  in  the  massacre  on  board  of  the  Tonquin, 
and  gave  some  account  of  that  melancholy  affair.  They  said 
Mr.  M'Kay  was  a  chief  among  the  white  men,  and  had  built  a 
great  house  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  but  had  left  it  and  sailed 
away  in  a  large  ship  to  the  northward,  where  he  had  been  at 
tacked  by  bad  Indians  in  canoes.  Mr.  Hunt  was  startled  by 
this  intelligence,  and  made  further  inquiries.  They  informed 
him  that  the  Indians  had  lashed  their  canoes  to  the  ship,  and 
fought  until  they  had  killed  him  and  all  his  people.  This  is 
another  instance  of  the  clearness  with  which  intelligence  is 
transmitted  from  mouth  to  mouth  among  the  Indian  tribes. 
These  tidings,  though  but  partially  credited  by  Mr.  Hunt,  filled 
his  mind  with  anxious  forebodings.  He  now  endeavored  to 
procure  canoes  in  which  to  descend  the  Columbia,  but  none 
suitable  for  the  purpose  were  to  be  obtained  above  the  nar 
rows  ;  he  continued  on,  therefore,  the  distance  of  twelve  miles, 
and  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  camp  was  soon 
surrounded  by  loitering  savages,  who  went  prowling  about, 
seeking  what  they  might  pilfer.  Being  baffled  by  the  vigi 
lance  of  the  guard,  they  endeavored  to  compass  their  ends  by 
other  means.  Toward  evening,  a  number  of  warriors  entered 
the  camp  in  ruffling  style;  painted  and  dressed  out  as  if  for 
battle,  and  armed  with  lances,  bows  and  arrows,  and  scalping 
knives.  They  informed  Mr.  Hunt  that  a  party  of  thirty  or 


ASTORIA.  247 

forty  braves  were  coming  up  from  a  village  below  to  attack 
the  camp  and  carry  off  the  horses,  but  that  they  were  deter 
mined  to  stay  with  him,  and  defend  him.  Mr.  Hunt  received 
them  with  great  coldness,  and,  when  they  had  finished  their 
story,  gave  them  a  pipe  to  smoke.  He  tr-e^ii  called  up  all 
hands,  stationed  sentinels  in  different  quarters,  but  told  them 
to  keep  as  vigilant  an  eye  within  the  camp  as  without. 

The  warriors  were  evidently  baffled,  by  these  precautions, 
and,  having  smoked  their  pipe,  and  Capered  off  their  valor, 
took  their  departure.  The  farce,  however,  did  not  end  here. 
After  a  little  while  the  warriors  returned,  ushering  in  another 
savage,  still  more  heroically  arrayed.  This  they  announced 
as  the  chief  of  the  belligerent  Tillage,  but  as  a  great  pacificator. 
His  people  had  been  furiously  bent  upon  the  attack,  and  would 
have  doubtless  carried  it  into  effect,  but  this  gallant  chief  had 
stood  forth  as  the  friend  of  the  white  men,  and  had  dispersed 
the  throng  by  his  own  authority  and  prowess.  Having 
vaunted  this  signal  piece  of  service,  there  was  a  significant 
pause;  all  evidently  expecting  some  adequate  reward.  Mr. 
Hunt  again  produced  the  pipe,  smoked  with  the  chieftain  and 
his  worthy  compeers ;  but  made  no  further  demonstrations  of 
gratitude.  They  remained  about  the  camp  all  night,  but  at 
daylight  returned,  baffled  and  crestfallen,  to  their  homes,  with 
nothing  but  smoke  for  their  pains. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  endeavored  to  procure  canoes,  of  which  he 
saw  several  about  the  neighborhood,  extremely  well  made, 
with  elevated  stems  and  sterns,  some  of  them  capable  of  car 
rying  three  thousand  pounds  weight.  He  found  it  extremely 
difficult,  however,  to  deal  with  these  slippery  people,  who 
seemed  much  more  inclined  to  pilfer.  Notwithstanding  a 
strict  guard  maintained  round  the  camp,  various  implements 
were  stolen,  and  several  horses  carried  off.  Among  the  latter 
we  have  to  include  the  long-cherished  steed  of  Pierre  Dorion. 
From  some  wilful  caprice,  that  worthy  pitched  his  tent  at 
some  distance  from  the  main  body,  and  tethered  his  invaluable 
steed  beside  ft,  from  whence  it  was  abstracted  in  the  night,  to 
the  infinite  chagrin  and  mortification  of  the  hybrid  interpreter. 

Having,  after  several  days'  negotiation,  procured  the  requi 
site  number  of  canoes,  Mr.  Hunt  would  gladly  have  left  this 
thievish  neighborhood,  but  was  detained  until  the  5th  of  Feb 
ruary  by  violent  head  winds,  accompanied  by  snow  and  rain. 
Even  after  he  was  enabled  to  get  under  way,  he  had  still  to 
struggle  against  contrary  winds  and  tempestuous  weather. 


248  ASTORIA. 

The  current  of  the  river,  however,  was  in  his  favor ;  having 
made  a  portage  at  the  grand  rapid,  the  canoes  met  with  no 
further  obstruction,  and,  on  the  afternoon  of  the  15th  of  Feb 
ruary,  swept  round  an  intervening  cape,  and  came  in  sight  of 
the  infant  settlement  of  Astoria.  After  eleven  months  wan 
dering  in  the  wilderness,  a  great  part  of  the  time  over  track 
less  wastes,  where  the  sight  of  a  savage  wigwam  was  a  rarity, 
we  may  imagine  the  delight  of  the  poor  weather-beaten  trav 
ellers,  at  beholding  the  embryo  establishment,  with  its  maga 
zines,  habitations,  and  picketed  bulwarks,  seated  on  a  high 
point  of  land,  dominating  a  beautiful  little  bay,  in  which  was 
a  trim-built  shallop  riding  quietly  at  anchor.  A  shout  of  joy 
burst  from  each  canoe  at  the  long-wished-for  sight.  They 
urged  their  canoes  across  the  bay,  and  pulled  with  eagerness 
for  shore,  where  all  hands  poured  down  from  the  settlement 
to  receive  and  welcome  them.  Among  the  first  to  greet  them 
on  their  landing,  were  some  of  their  old  comrades  and  fellow- 
suiferers,  who,  under  the  conduct  of  Eeed,  M'Lellan,  and 
M'Kenzie,  had  parted  from  them  at  the  Caldron  Linn.  These 
had  reached  Astoria  nearly  a  month  previously,  and,  judging 
from  their  own  narrow  escape  from  starvation,  had  given  up 
Mr.  Hunt  and  his  followers  as  lost.  Their  greeting  was  the 
more  warm  and  cordial.  As  to  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  their 
mutual  felicitations,  as  usual,  were  loud  and  vociferous,  and  it 
was  almost  ludicrous  to  behold  these  ancient  "comrades"  and 
"confreres,"  hugging  and  kissing  each  other  on  the  river 
bank.  When  the  first  greetings  were  over,  the  different  bands 
interchanged  accounts  of  their  several  wanderings,  after  sepa 
rating  at  Snake  River;  we  shall  briefly  notice  a  few  of  the 
leading  particulars.  It  will  be  recollected  by  the  reader,  that 
a  small  exploring  detachment  had  proceeded  down  the  river, 
under  the  conduct  of  Mr.  John  Reed,  a  clerk  of  the  company : 
that  another  had  set  off  under  M'Lellan,  and  a  third  in  a 
different  direction,  under  M'Kenzie.  After  wandering  for 
several  days  without  meeting  with  Indians,  or  obtaining  any 
supplies,  they  came  together  fortuitously  among  the  Snake 
River  mountains,  some  distance  below  that  disastrous  pass  or 
strait,  which  had  received  the  appellation  of  the  Devil's  Scuttle 
Hole. 

When  thus  united,  their  party  consisted  of  M'Kenzie,  M'Lel 
lan,  Reed,  and  eight  men,  chiefly  Canadians.  Being  all  in  the 
same  predicament,  without  horses,  provisions,  or  information 
of  any  kind,  they  all  agreed  that  it  would  be  worse  than  useless 


ASTORIA.  249 

to  return  to  Mr.  Hunt  and  encumber  him  with  so  many  starv 
ing  men,  and  that  their  only  course  was  to  extricate  themselves 
as  soon  as  possible  from  this  land  of  famine  and  misery,  and 
make  the  best  of  their  way  for  the  Columbia.  They  accord 
ingly  continued  to  follow  the  downward  course  of  Snake  Eiver ; 
clambering  rocks  and  mountains,  and  defying  all  the  diffi 
culties  and  dangers  of  that  rugged  defile,  which  subsequently, 
when  the  snows  had  fallen,  was  found  impassable  by  Messrs. 
Hunt  and  Crooks. 

Though  constantly  near  to  the  borders  of  the  river,  and  for 
a  great  part  of  the  time  within  sight  of  its  current,  one  of  their 
greatest  sufferings  was  thirst.  The  river  had  worn  its  way 
in  a  deep  channel  through  rocky  mountains,  destitute  of  brooks 
or  springs.  Its  banks  were  so  high  and  precipitous,  that  there 
was  rarely  any  place  where  the  travellers  could  get  down  to 
drink  its  waters.  Frequently  they  suffered  for  miles  the  tor 
ments  of  Tantalus ;  water  continually  within  sight,  yet  fevered 
with  the  most  parching  thirst.  Here  and  there  they  met  with 
rain-water  collected  in  the  hollows  of  the  rocks,  but  more  than 
once  they  were  reduced  to  the  utmost  extremity ;  and  some 
of  the  men  had  recourse  to  the  last  expedient  to  avoid  per 
ishing 

Their  sufferings  from  hunger  were  equally  severe.  They 
could  meet  with  no  game,  and  subsisted  for  a  time  on  strips  of 
beaver  skin,  broiled  on  the  coals.  These  were  doled  out  in 
scanty  allowances,  barely  sufficient  to  keep  up  existence,  and 
at  length  failed  them  altogether.  Still  they  crept  feebly  on, 
scarce  dragging  one  limb  after  another,  until  a  severe  snow 
storm  brought  them  to  a  pause.  To  struggle  against  it,  in 
their  exhausted  condition,  was  impossible ;  so  cowering  under 
an  impending  rock  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  mountain,  they  pre 
pared  themselves  for  that  wretched  fate  which  seemed  in 
evitable. 

At  this  critical  juncture,  when  famine  stared  them  in  the 
face,  M'Lellan  casting  up  his  eyes,  beheld  an  ahsahta,  or  big 
horn,  sheltering  itself  under  a  shelving  rock  on  the  side  of  the 
hill  above  them.  Being  in  a  more  active  plight  than  any  of 
his  comrades,  and  an  excellent  marksman,  he  set  off  to  get 
within  shot  of  the  animal.  His  companions  watched  his  move 
ments  with  breathless  anxiety,  for  their  Mves  depended  upon 
his  success.  He  made  a  cautious  circuit ;  scrambled  up  the 
hill  with  the  utmost  silence,  and  at  length  arrived,  unper- 
ceived,  within  a  proper  distance.  Here  levelling  his  rifle  he 


250  ASTORIA. 

took  so  sure  an  aim,  that  the  highorn  fell  dead  on  the  spot ;  a 
fortunate  circumstance,  for,  to  pursue  it,  if  merely  wounded, 
would  have  been  impossible  in  his  emaciated  state.  The  de 
clivity  of  the  hill  enabled  him  to  roll  the  carcass  down  to  his 
companions,  who  were  too  feeble  to  climb  the  rocks.  They 
fell  to  work  to  cut  it  up ;  yet  exerted  a  remarkable  self-denial 
for  men  in  their  starving  condition,  for  they  contented  them 
selves  for  the  present  with  a  soup  made  from  the  bones,  re 
serving  the  flesh  for  future  repasts.  This  providential  relief 
gave  them  strength  to  pursue  their  journey,  but  they  were 
frequently  reduced  to  almost  equal  straits,  and  it  was  only  the 
smallness  of  their  party,  requiring  a  small  supply  of  provi 
sions,  that  enabled  them  to  get  through  this  desolate  region 
with  their  lives. 

At  length,  after  twenty-one  days  of  toil  and  suffering,  they 
got  through  these  mountains,  and  arrived  at  a  tributary  stream 
of  that  branch  of  the  Columbia  called  Lewis  River,  of  which 
Snake  River  forms  the  southern  fork.  In  this  neighborhood 
they  met  with  wild  horses,  the  first  they  had  seen  w^est  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  From  hence  they  made  their  way  to  Lewis 
River,  where  they  fell  in  with  a  friendly  tribe  of  Indians,  who 
freely  administered  to  their  necessities.  On  this  river  they 
procured  two  canoes,  in  which  they  dropped  down  the  stream 
to  its  confluence  with  the  Columbia,  and  then  down  that  river 
to  Astoria,  where  they  arrived  haggard  and  emaciated,  and 
perfectly  in  rags. 

Thus,  all  the  leading  persons  of  Mr.  Hunt's  expedition  were 
once  more  gathered  together,  excepting  Mr.  Crooks,  of  whose 
safety  they  entertained  but  little  hope,  considering  the  feeble 
condition  in  which  they  had  been  compelled  to  leave  him  in  the 
heart  of  the  wilderness. 

A  day  was  now  given  up  to  jubilee,  to  celebrate  the  arrival 
of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions,  and  the  joyful  meeting  of  the 
various  scattered  bands  of  adventurers  at  Astoria.  The  colors 
were  hoisted ;  the  guns,  great  and  small,  were  fired ;  there  was 
a  feast  of  fish,  of  beaver,  and  venison,  which  relished  well  with 
men  who  had  so  long  been  glad  to  revel  on  horse  flesh  and  dogs' 
meat;  a  genial  allowance  of  grog  was  issued,  to  increase  the 
general  animation,  and  the  festivities  wound  up,  as  usual,  with 
a  grand  dance  at  night,  by  the  Canadian  voyageurs.  * 

*  The  distance  from  St.  Louis  to  Astoria,  by  the  route  travelled  by  Hunt  and 
M'Kenzie,  was  upward  of  thirty-five  hundred  miles,  though  in  a  direct  line  it  does 
not  exceed  eighteen  hundred. 


ASTORIA.  251 


CHAPTER  XXXIX 

THE  winter  had  passed  away  tranquilly  at  Astoria.  The  ap 
prehensions  of  hostility  from  the  natives  had  subsided ;  indeed, 
as  the  season  advanced,  the  Indians  for  the  most  part  had  dis 
appeared  from  the  neighborhood,  and  abandoned  the  sea- coast, 
so  that,  for  want  of  their  aid,  the  colonists  had  at  times  suffered 
considerably  for  want  of  provisions.  The  hunters  belonging  to 
the  establishment  made  frequent  and  wide  excursions,  but  with 
very  moderate  success.  There  were  some  deer  and  a  few  bears 
to  be  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  elk  in  great  numbers;  the 
country,  however,  was  so  rough,  and  the  woods  so  close  and 
entangled,  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  beat  up  the  game. 
The  prevalent  rains  of  winter,  also,  rendered  it  difficult  for  the 
hunter  to  keep  his  arms  in  order.  The  quantity  of  game, 
therefore,  brought  in  by  the  hunters  was  extremely  scanty, 
and  it  was  frequently  necessary  to  put  all  hands  on  very 
moderate  allowance.  Toward  spring,  however,  the  fishing  sea" 
son  commenced — the  season  of  plenty  on  the  Columbia.  About, 
the  beginning  of  February,  a  small  kind  of  fish,  about  six  inches 
long,  called  by  the  natives  the  uthlecan,  and  resembling  the 
smelt,  made  its  appearance  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It  is 
said  to  be  of  delicious  flavor,  and  so  fat  as  to  burn  like  a  candle, 
for  which  it  is  often  used  by  the  natives.  It  enters  the  river 
in  immense  shoals,  like  solid  columns,  often  extending  to  the 
depth  of  five  or  more  feet,  and  is  scooped  up  by  the  natives 
with  small  nets  at  the  end  of  poles.  In  this  way  they  will  soon 
fill  a  canoe,  or  form,  a  great  heap  upon  the  river  banks.  These 
fish  constitute  a  principal  article  of  their  food ;  the  women  dry 
ing  them  and  stringing  them  on  cords.  As  the  uthlecan  is 
only  found  in  the  lower  part  of  the  river,  the  arrival  of  it  soon 
brought  back  the  natives  to  the  coast ;  who  again  resorted  to 
the  factory  to  trade,  and  from  that  time  furnished  plentiful 
supplies  of  fish.  » 

The  sturgeon  makes  its  appearance  in  the  river  shortly  after 
the  uthlecan,  and  is  taken  in  different  ways,  by  the  natives : 
sometimes  they  spear  it ;  but  oftener  they  use  the  hook  and 
line,  and  the  net.  Occasionally,  they  sink  a  cord  in  the  river 
by  a  heavy  weight,  with  a  buoy  at  the  upper  end,  to  keep  it 


252  AS  TORT  A. 

floating.  To  this  cord  several  hooks  are  attached  by  short 
lines,  a  few  feet  distant  from  each  other,  and  baited  with  small 
fish.  This  apparatus  is  often  set  toward  night,  and  by  the  next 
morning  several  sturgeon  will  be  found  hooked  by  it;  for 
though  a  large  and  strong  fish,  it  makes  but  little  resistance 
when  ensnared. 

The  salmon,  which  are  the  prime  fish  of  the  Columbia,  and 
as  important  to  the  piscatory  tribes  as  are  the  buffaloes  to  the 
hunters  of  the  prairies,  do  not  enter  the  river  until  toward  the 
latter  part  of  May,  from  which  time  until  the  middle  of  Aug 
ust,  they  abound,  and  are  taken  in  vast  quantities,  either  with 
the  spear  or  seine,  and  mostly  in  shallow  water.  An  inferior 
species  succeeds,  and  continues  from  August  to  December.  It 
is  remarkable  for  having  a  double  row  of  teeth,  half  an  inch 
long  and  extremely  sharp,  from  whence  it  has  received  the 
name  of  the  dog- toothed  salmon.  It  is  generally  killed  with 
the  spear  in  small  rivulets,  and  smoked  for  winter  provision. 
We  have  noticed  in  a  former  chapter  the  mode  in  which  the 
salmon  are  taken  and  cured  at  the  falls  of  the  Columbia ;  and 
put  up  in  parcels  for  exportation.  From  these  different  fisher 
ies  of  the  river  tribes,  the  establishment  at  Astoria  had  to  de 
rive  much  of  its  precarious  supplies  of  provisions. 

A  year's  residence  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and  various 
expeditions  in  the  interior,  had  now  given  the  Astorians  some 
idea  of  the  country.  The  whole  coast  is  described  as  remarka 
bly  rugged  and  mountainous ;  with  dense  forests  of  hemlock, 
spruce,  white  and  red  cedar,  cotton-wood,  white  oak.  white  and 
swamp  ash,  willow,  and  a  few  walnut.  There  is  likewise  an 
undergrowth  of  aromatic  shrubs,  creepers,  and  clambering 
vines,  that  render  the  forests  almost  impenetrable;  together 
with  berries  of  various  kinds,  such  as  gooseberries,  strawber 
ries,  raspberries,  both  red  and  yellow,  very  large  and  finely 
flavored  whortleberries,  cranberries,  serviceberries,  blackber 
ries,  currants,  sloes,  and  wild  and  choke  cherries. 

Among  the  flowering  vines  is  one  deserving  of  particular  no 
tice.  Each  flower  is  composed  of  six  leaves  or  petals,  about 
three  inches  in  length,  of  a  beautiful  crimson,  the  inside  spotted 
with  white.  Its  leaves,  of  a  fine  green,  are  oval,  and  disposed 
by  threes.  This  plant  climbs  upon  the  trees  without  'attaching 
itself  to  them ;  when  it  has  reached  the  topmost  branches  it  de 
scends  perpendicularly,  and  as  it  continues  to  grow,  extends 
from  tree  to  tree,  until  its  various  stalks  interlace  the  grove 
like  the  rigging  of  a  ship.  The  stems  or  trunks  of  this  vine  are 


ASTORIA.  253 

tougher  and  more  flexible  than  willow,  and  are  from  fifty  to 
one  hundred  fathoms  in  length.  From  the  fibres,  the  Indians 
manufacture  baskets  of  such  close  texture  as  to  hold  water. 

The  principal  quadrupeds  that  had  been  seen  by  the  colonists 
in  their  various  expeditions  were  the  stag,  fallow  deer,  hart, 
black  and  grizzly  bear,  antelope,  ahsahta,  or  bighorn,  beaver, 
sea  and  river  otter,  muskrat,  fox,  wolf,  and  panther,  the  latter 
extremely  rare.  The  only  domestic  animals  among  the  natives 
were  horses  and  dogs. 

The  country  abounded  with  aquatic  and  land  birds,  such  as 
swans,  wild  geese,  brant,  ducks  of  almost  every  description, 
pelicans,  herons,  gulls,  snipes,  curlews,  eagles,  vultures,  crows, 
ravens,  magpies,  woodpeckers,  pigeons,  partridges,  pheasants, 
grouse,  and  a  great  variety  of  singing  birds. 

There  were  few  reptiles ;  the  only  dangerous  kinds  were  the 
rattlesnake,  and  one  striped  with  black,  yellow,  and  white, 
about  four  feet  long.  Among  the  lizard  kind  was  one  about 
nine  or  ten  inches  in  length,  exclusive  of  the  tail,  and  three 
inches  in  circumference.  The  tail  was  round,  and  of  the  same 
length  as  the  body.  The  head  was  triangular,  covered  with 
small  square  scales.  The  upper  part  of  the  body  was  likewise 
covered  with  small  scales,  green,  yellow,  black,  and  blue. 
Each  foot  had  five  toes,  furnished  with  strong  nails,  probably 
to  aid  it  in  burrowing,  as  it  usually  lived  underground  on  the 
plains. 

A  remarkable  fact,  characteristic  of  the  country  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  is  the  mildness  and  equability  of  the 
climate.  That  great  mountain  barrier  seems  to  divide  the 
continent  into  different  climates,  even  in  the  same  degrees  of 
latitude.  The  rigorous  winters,  and  sultry  summers,  and  all 
the  capricious  inequalities  of  temperature  prevalent  on  the 
Atlantic  side  of  the  mountains,  are  but  little  felt  on  their 
western  declivities.  The  countries  between  them  and  the 
Pacific  are  blessed  with  milder  and  steadier  temperature,  re 
sembling  the  climates  of  parallel  latitudes  in  Europe.  In  the 
plains  and  valleys  but  little  snow  falls  throughout  the  winter, 
and  usually  melts  while  falling.  It  rarely  lies  on  the  ground 
more  than  two  days  at  a  time,  except  on  the  summits  of  the 
mountains.  The  winters  are  rainy  rather  than  cold.  The 
rains  for  five  months,  from  the  middle  of  October  to  the  mid 
dle  of  March,  are  almost  incessant,  and  often  accompanied 
by  tremendous  thunder  and  lightning.  The  winds  preralent  at 
this  season  are  from  the  south  and  southeast,  which  usually 


254  ASTORIA. 

bring  rain.  Those  from  the  north  to  the  southwest  are  the 
harbingers  of  fair  weather  and  a  clear  sky.  The  residue  of  the 
year  from  the  middle  of  March  to  the  middle  of  October,  an 
interval  of  seven  months,  is  serene  and  delightful.  There  is 
scarcely  any  rain  throughout  this  time,  yet  the  face  of  the 
country  is  kept  fresh  and  verdant  by  nightly  dews,  and  occa 
sionally  by  humid  fogs  in  the  mornings.  These  are  not  con 
sidered  prejudicial  to  health,  since  both  the  natives  and  the 
whites  sleep  in  the  open  air  with  perfect  impunity.  While 
this  equable  and  bland  temperature  prevails  throughout  the 
lower  country,  the  peaks  and  ridges  of  the  vast  mountains  by 
which  it  is  dominated,  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  This 
renders  them  discernible  at  a  great  distance,  shining  at  times, 
like  bright  summer  clouds,  at  other  times  assuming  the  most 
aerial  tints,  and  always  forming  brilliant  and  striking  features 
in  the  vast  landscape.  The  mild  temperature  prevalent 
throughout  the  country  is  attributed  by  some  to  the  succession 
of  winds  from  the  Pacific  Ocean,  extending  from  latitude 
twenty  degrees  to  at  least  fifty  degrees  north.  These  temper 
the  heat  of  summer,  so  that  in  the  shade  no  one  is  incommoded 
by  perspiration ;  they  also  soften  the  rigors  of  winter,  and  pro 
duce  such  a  moderation  in  the  climate,  that  the  inhabitants 
can  wear  the  same  dress  throughout  the  year. 

The  soil  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  sea-coast  is  of  a  brown 
color,  inclining  to  red,  and  generally  poor ;  being  a  mixture  of 
clay  and  gravel.  In  the  interior,  and  especially  in  the  valleys 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  soil  is  generally  blackish ;  though 
sometimes  yellow.  It  is  frequently  mixed  with  marl,  and 
with  marine  substances  in  a  state  of  decomposition.  This 
kind  of  soil  extends  to  a  considerable  depth,  as  may  be  per 
ceived  in  the  deep  cuts  made  by  ravines,  and  by  the  beds  of 
rivers.  The  vegetation  in  these  valleys  is  .much  more  abun 
dant  than  near  the  coast;  in  fact,  it  is  in  these  fertile  in 
tervals,  locked  up  between  rocky  sierras,  or  scooped  out  from 
barren  wastes,  that  population  must  extend  itself,  as  it  were, 
in  veins  and  ramifications,  if  ever  the  regions  beyond  the 
mountains  should  become  civilized. 


ASTORIA.  255 


CHAPTER  XL. 

A  BRIEF  mention  has  already  been  made  of  the  tribes  or 
hordes  existing  about  the  lower  part  of  the  Columbia  at  the 
time  of  the  settlement;  a  few  more  particulars  concerning 
them  may  be  acceptable.  The  four  tribes  nearest  to  Astoria, 
and  with  whom  the  traders  had  most  intercourse,  were,  as  has 
heretofore  been  observed,  the  Chinooks,  the  Clatsops,  the 
Wahkiacums,  and  the  Cathlamets.  The  Chinooks  resided 
chiefly  along  the  banks  of  a  river  of  the  same  name,  running 
parallel  to  the  sea-coast,  through  a  low  country  studded  with 
stagnant  pools,  and  emptying  itself  into  Baker's  Bay,  a  few 
miles  from  Cape  Disappointment.  This  was  the  tribe  over 
which  Comcomly,  the  one-eyed  chieftain,  held  sway ;  it  boasted 
two  hundred  and  fourteen  fighting  men.  Their  chief  subsist 
ence  was  on  fish,  with  an  occasional  regale  of  the  flesh  of  elk 
and  deer,  and  of  wild-fowl  from  the  neighboring  ponds. 

The  Clatsops  resided  on  both  sides  of  Point  Adams;  they 
were  the  mere  relics  of  a  tribe  which  had  been  nearly  swept 
off  by  the  smallpox,  and  did  not  number  more  than  one  hun 
dred  and  eighty  fighting  men. 

The  Wahkiacums  or  Waak-i-cums,  inhabited  the  north  side 
of  the  Columbia,  and  numbered  sixty-six  warriors.  They  and 
the  Chinooks  were  originally  the  same ;  but  a  dispute  arising 
about  two  generations  previous  to  the  time  of  the  settlement 
between  the  ruling  chief  and  his  brother  Wahkiacum,  the 
latter  seceded,  and  with  his  adherents  formed  the  present 
horde  which  continues  to  go  by  his  name.  In  this  way  new 
tribes  or  clans  are  formed,  and  lurking  causes  of  hostility 
engendered. 

The  Cathlamets  lived  opposite  to  the  lower  village  of  the 
Wahkiacums,  and  numbered  ninety-four  warriors. 

These  four  tribes,  or  rather  clans,  have  every  appearance 
of  springing  from  the  same  origin,  resembling  each  other  in 
person,  dress,  language,  and  manners.  They  are  rather  a 
diminutive  race,  generally  below  five  feet  five  inches,  with 
crooked  le^s  and  thick  ankles;  a  deformity  caused  by  their 
passing  so  much  of  their  time  sitting  or  squatting  upon  the 
calves  of  their  legs,  and' their  heels,  in  the  bottom  of  their 


256  ASTORIA. 

canoes ;  a  favorite  position,  which  they  retain,  even  when  on 
shore.  The  women  increase  the  deformity  by  wearing  tight 
bandages  around  the  ankles,  which  prevent  the  circulation  of 
the  blood,  and  cause  a  swelling  of  the  muscles  of  the  leg. 

Neither  sex  can  boast  of  personal  beauty.  Their  faces  are 
round,  with  small,  but  animated  eyes.  Their  noses  are  broad 
and  flat  at  top,  and  fleshy  at  the  end,  with  large  nostrils. 
They  have  wide  mouths,  thick  lips,  and  short,  irregular  and 
dirty  teeth.  Indeed,  good  teeth  are  seldom  to  be  seen  among 
the  tribes  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  who  live  chiefly  011 
fish. 

In  the  early  stages  of  their  intercourse  with  white  men, 
these  savages  were  but  scantily  clad.  In  summer  time  the 
men  went  entirely  naked ;  in  the  winter  and  in  bad  weather, 
the  men  wore  a  small  robe,  reaching  to  the  middle  of  the  thigh, 
made  of  the  skins  of  animals,  or  of  the  wool  of  the  mountain 
sheep.  Occasionally,  they  wore  a  kind  of  mantle  of  matting, 
to  keep  off  the  rain ;  but  having  thus  protected  tihe  back  and 
shoulders,  they  left  the  rest  of  the  body  naked. 

The  women  wore  similar  robes,  though  shorter,  not  reaching 
below  the  waist;  beside  which,  they  had  a  kind  of  petticoat,  or 
fringe,  reaching  from  the  waist  to  the  knee,  formed  of  the 
fibres  of  cedar  bark,  broken  into  strands,  or  a  tissue  of  silk 
grass  twisted  and  knotted  at  the  ends.  This  was  the  usual 
dress  of  the  women  in  summer;  should  the  weather  be  in 
clement,  they  added  a  vest  of  skins,  similar  to  the  robe. 

The  men  carefully  eradicated  every  vestige  of  a  beard,  con 
sidering  it  a  great  deformity.  They  looked  with  disgust  at  the 
whiskers  and  well-furnished  chins  of  the  white  men,  and  in 
derision  called  them  Long-beards.  Both  sexes,  on  the  other 
hand,  cherished  the  hair  of  the  head,  which  with  them  is  gen 
erally  black  and  rather  coarse.  They  allowed  it  to  grow  to  a 
great  length,  and  were  very  proud  and  careful  of  it,  some 
times  wearing  it  plaited,  sometimes  wound  round  the  head  in 
fanciful  tresses.  No  greater  affront  could  be  offered  them 
than  to  cut  off  their  treasured  locks. 

They  had  conical  hats  with  narrow  rims,  neatly  woven  of 
bear-grass  or  of  the  fibres  of  cedar  bark,  interwoven  with  de 
signs  of  various  shapes  and  colors ;  sometimes  merely  squares 
and  triangles,  at  other  times  rude  representations  of  canoes, 
with  men  fishing  and  harpooning.  These  hats  were  nearly 
waterproof,  and  extremely  durable. 

The  favorite  ornaments  of  the  men  were  collars  of  bears' 


ASTORIA.  257 

claws,  the  proud  trophies  of  hunting  exploits;  while  the  wo 
men  and  children  wore  similar  decorations  of  elks'  tusks.  An 
intercourse  with  the  white  traders,  however,  soon  effected  a 
change  in  the  toilets  of  "both  sexes.  They  became  fond  of 
arraying  themselves  in  any  article  of  civilized  dress  which 
they  could  procure,  and  often  made  a  most  grotesque  appear 
ance.  They  adapted  many  articles  of  finery,  also,  to  their 
own  previous  tastes.  Both  sexes  were  fond  of  adorning  them 
selves  with  bracelets  of  iron,  brass  or  copper.  They  were 
delighted,  also,  with  blue  and  white  beads,  particularly  the 
former,  and  wore  broad  tight  bands  of  them  round  the  waist 
and  ankles ;  large  rolls  of  them  round  the  neck,  and  pendants 
of  them  in  the  ears.  The  men,  especially,  who,  in  savage  life 
carry  a  passion  for  personal  decoration  farther  than  the  fe 
males,  did  not  think  their  gala  equipments  complete,  unless 
they  had  a  jewel  of  haiqua,  or  wampum,  dangling  at  the  nose. 
Thus  arrayed,  their  hair  besmeared  with  fish  oil,  and  their 
bodies  bedaubed  with  red  clay,  they  considered  themselves 
irresistible. 

When  on  warlike  expeditions,  they  painted  their  faces  and 
bodies  in  the  most  hideous  and  grotesque  manner,  according 
to  the  universal  practice  of  American  savages.  Their  arms 
were  bows  and  arrows,  spears,  and  war-clubs.  Some  wore  a 
corslet  formed  of  pieces  of  hard  wood,  laced  together  with 
bear-grass,  so  as  to  form  a  light  coat  of  mail,  pliant  to  the 
body ;  and  a  kind  of  casque  of  cedar  bark,  leather,  and  bear- 
grass,  sufficient  to  protect  the  head  from  an  arrow  or  war  club. 
A  more  complete  article  of  defensive  armor  was  a  buff  jerkin 
or  shirt  of  great  thickness,  made  of  doublings  of  elk  skin,  and 
reaching  to  the  feet,  holes  being  left  for  the  head  and  arms. 
This  was  perfectly  arrow  proof ;  add  to  which,  it  was  often  en 
dowed  with  charmed  virtues,  by  the  spells  and  mystic  cere 
monials  of  the  medicine  man,  or  conjurer. 

Of  the  peculiar  custom,  prevalent  among  these  people  of 
flattening  the  head,  we  have  already  spoken.  It  is  one  of 
those  instances  of  human  caprice,  like  the  crippling  of  the  feet 
of  females  in  China,  which  are  quite  incomprehensible.  This 
custom  prevails  principally  among  the  tribes  on  the  sea-coast, 
and  about  the  lower  parts  of  the  rivers.  How  far  it  extends 
along  the  coast  we  are  not  able  to  ascertain.  Some  of  the  tribes, 
both  north  and  south  of  the  Columbia,  practice  it ;  but  they  all 
speak  the  Chinook  language,  and  probably  originated  from  the 
same  stock.  As  far  as  WQ  can  learn,  the  remoter  tribes,  which 


258  ASTORIA. 

speak  an  entirely  different  language,  do  not  flatten  the  head. 
This  absurd  custom  declines,  also,  in  receding  from  the  shores 
of  the  Pacific ;  few  traces  of  it  are  to  be  found  among  the  tribes 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  after  crossing  the  mountains  it 
disappears  altogether.  Those  Indians,  therefore,  about  the 
head  waters  of  the  Columbia,  and  in  the  solitary  mountain 
regions,  who  are  often  called  Matheads,  must  not  be  supposed 
to  be  characterized  by  this  deformity.  It  is  an  appellation 
often  given  by  the  hunters  east  of  the  mountain  chain,  to  all 
the  western  Indians,  excepting  the  Snakes. 

The  religious  belief  of  these  people  was  extremely  limited 
and  confined ;  or  rather,  in  ah1  probability,  their  explanations 
were  but  little  understood  by  their  visitors.  They  had  an  idea 
of  a  benevolent  and  omnipotent  spirit,  the  creator  of  all  things. 
They  represent  him  as  assuming  various  shapes  at  pleasure, 
but  generally  that  of  an  immense  bird.  He  usually  inhabits 
the  sun,  but  occasionally  wings  his  way  through  the  aerial 
regions,  and  sees  all  that  is  doing  upon  earth.  Should  any 
thing  displease  him  he  vents  his  wrath  in  terrific  storms  and 
tempests,  the  lightning  being  the  flashes  of  his  eye,  and  the 
thunder  the  clapping  of  his  wings.  To  propitiate  his  favor 
they  offer  him  annual  sacrifices  of  salmon  and  venison,  the 
first-fruits  of  their  fishing  and  hunting. 

Beside  this  aerial  spirit  they  believe  in  an  inferior  one,  who 
inhabits  the  fire,  and  of  whom  they  are  in  perpetual  dread,  as, 
though  he  possesses  equally  the  power  of  good  and  evil,  the 
evil  is  apt  to  predominate.  They  endeavor,  therefore,  to  keep 
him  in  good  humor  by  frequent  offerings.  He  is  supposed  also 
to  have  great  influence  with  the  winged  spirit,  their  sovereign 
protector  and  benefactor.  They  implore  him,  therefore,  to  act 
as  their  interpreter,  and  procure  them  all  desirable  things, 
such  as  success  in  fishing  and  hunting,  abundance  of  game, 
fleet  horses,  obedient  wives,  and  male  children. 

These  Indians  have  likewise  their  priests,  or  conjurers,  or 
medicine  men,  who  pretend  to  be  in  the  confidence  of  the  dei 
ties,  and  the  expounders  and  enforcers  of  their  will.  Each  of 
these  medicine  men  has  his  idols  carved  in  wood,  representing 
the  spirits  of  the  air  and  of  the  fire,  under  some  rude  and  gro 
tesque  form  of  a  horse,  a  bear,  a  beaver,  or  other  quadruped, 
or  that  of  bird  or  fish.  These  idols  are  hung  round  with  amu 
lets  and  votive  offerings,  such  as  beavers'  teeth,  and  bears'  and 
eagles'  claws. 

When  any  chief  personage  is  on  his  death-bed,  or  danger- 


ASTORIA.  259 

ously  ill,  the  medicine  men  are  sent  for.  Each  brings  with 
him  his  idols,  with  which  he  retires  into  a  canoe  to  hold  a  con 
sultation.  As  doctors  are  prone  to  disagree,  so  these  medicine 
men  have  now  and  then  a  violent  altei  cation  as  to  the  malady 
of  the  patient,  or  the  treatment  of  it.  To  settle  this  they  beat 
their  idols  soundly  against  each  other ;  whichever  first  loses  a 
tooth  or  a  claw  is  considered  as  confuted,  and  his  votary  re 
tires  from  the  field. 

Polygamy  is  not  only  allowed,  but  considered  honorable,  and 
the  greater  number  of  wives  a  man  can  maintain,  the  more 
important  is  he  in  the  eyes  of  the  tribe.  The  first  wife,  how 
ever,  takes  rank  of  all  the  others,  and  is  considered  mistress 
of  the  house.  Still  the  domestic  establishment  is  liable  to 
jealousies  and  cabals,  and  the  lord  and  master  has  much  diffi 
culty  in  maintaining  harmony  in  his  jangling  household. 

In  the  manuscript  from  which  we  draw  many  of  these  partic 
ulars,  it  is  stated  that  he  who  exceeds  his  neighbors  in  the 
number  of  his  wives,  male  children  and  slaves,  is  elected  chief 
of  the  village ;  a  title  to  office  which  we  do  not  recollect  ever 
before  to  have  met  with. 

Feuds  are  frequent  among  these  tribes,  but  are  not  very 
deadly.  They  have  occasionally  pitched  battles,  fought  on 
appointed  days,  and  at  specified  places,  which  are  generally 
the  banks  of  a  rivulet.  The  adverse  parties  post  themselves 
on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  stream,  and  at  such  distances  that 
the  battles  often  last  a  long  while  before  any  blood  is  shed. 
The  number  of  killed  and  wounded  seldom  exceed  half  a  dozen. 
Should  the  damage  be  equal  on  each  side,  the  war  is  considered 
as  honorably  concluded ;  should  one  party  lose  more  than  the 
other,  it  is  entitled  to  a  compensation  in  slaves  or  other  prop 
erty,  otherwise  hostilities  are  liable  to  be  renewed  at  a  future 
day.  They  are  much  given  also  to  predatory  inroads  into  the 
territories  of  their  enemies,  and  sometimes  of  their  friendly 
neighbors.  Should  they  fall  upon  a  band  of  inferior  force,  or 
upon  a  village,  weakly  defended,  they  act  with  the  ferocity  of 
true  poltroons,  slaying  all  the  men,  and  carrying  off  the 
women  and  children  as  slaves.  As  to  the  property,  it  is 
packed  upon  horses  which  they  bring  with  them  for  the  pur 
pose.  They  are  mean  and  paltry  as  warriors,  and  altogether 
inferior  in  heroic  qualities  to  the  savages  of  the  buffalo  plains 
on  the  east  side  of  the  mountains. 

A  great  portion  of  their  time  is  passed  in  revelry,  music, 
dancing,  and  gambling.  Their  music  scarcely  deserves  the 


200  ASTORIA. 

name ;  the  instruments  being  of  the  rudest  kind.  Their  sing* 
ing  is  harsh  and  discordant ;  the  songs  are  chiefly  extempore, 
relating  to  passing  circumstances,  the  persons  present,  or  any 
trifling  object  that  strikes  the  attention  of  the  singer.  They 
have  several  kinds  of  dances,  some  of  them  lively  and  pleas 
ing.  The  women  are  rarely  permitted  to  dance  with  the  men, 
but  form  groups  apart,  dancing  to  the  same  instrument  and 
song. 

They  have  a  great  passion  for  play,  and  a  variety  of  garner. 
To  such  a  pitch  of  excitement  are  they  sometimes  roused,  that 
they  gamble  away  everything  they  possess,  even  to  their  wives 
and  children.  They  are  notorious  thieves,  also,  and  proud  of 
their  dexterity.  He  who  is  frequently  successful,  gains  much 
applause  and  popularity ;  but  the  clumsy  thief,  who  is  detected 
in  some  bungling  attempt,  is  scoffed  at  and  despised,  and 
•sometimes  severely  punished. 

Such  are  a  few  leading  characteristics  of  the  natives  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Astoria,  They  appear  to  us  inferior  in  many 
respects  to  the  tribes  east  of  the  mountains,  the  bold  rovers  of 
the  prairies ;  and  to  partake  much  of  the  Esquimaux  character ; 
elevated  in  some  degree  by  a  more  genial  climate,  and  more 
varied  style  of  living. 

The  habits  of  traffic  engendered  at  the  cataracts  of  the 
Columbia,  have  had  their  influence  along  the  coast.  The  Chi- 
nooks  and  other  Indians  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  soon  proved 
themselves  keen  traders,  and  in  their  early  dealings  with  the 
Astorians,  never  hesitated  to  ask  three  times  what  they  con 
sidered  the  real  value  of  an  article.  They  were  inquisitive, 
also,  in  the  extreme,  and  impertinently  intrusive;  and  were 
prone  to  indulge  in  scoffing  and  ridicule,  at  the  expense  of  the 
strangers. 

In  one  thing,  however,  they  showed  superior  judgment  and 
self-command  to  most  of  their  race;  this  was,  in  their  ab 
stinence  from  ardent  spirits,  and  the  abhorrence  and  disgust 
with  which  they  regarded  a  drunkard.  On  one  occasion,  a 
son  of  Comcomly  had  been  induced  to  drink  freely  at  the  fac 
tory,  and  went  home  in  a  state  of  intoxication,  playing  all 
kinds  of  mad  pranks,  until  he  sank  into  a  stupor,  in  which 
he  remained  for  two  days.  The  old  chieftain  repaired  to  his 
friend  M'Dougal,  with  indignation  flaming  in  his  countenance, 
and  bitterly  reproached  him  for  having  permitted  his  son  to 
degrade  himself  into  a  beast,  and  to  render  himself  an  object 
of  scorn  and  laughter  to  his  slave. 


ASTORIA.  261 


CHAPTEE  XLI. 

As  the  spring  opened,  the  little  settlement  of  Astoria  was  ip 
agitation,  and  prepared  to  send  forth  various  expeditions, 
Several  important  things  were  to  be  done.  It  was  necessary 
to  send  a  supply  of  goods  to  the  trading  post  of  Mr.  David 
Stuart,  established  in  the  preceding  autumn  on  the  Oakinagan. 
The  cache,  or  secret  deposit,  made  by  Mr.  Hunt  at  the  Caldron 
Linn,  was  likewise  to  be  visited,  and  the  merchandise  and 
other  effects  left  there,  to  be  brought  to  Astoria.  A  third 
object  of  moment  was  to  send  dispatches  overland  to  Mr.  Astor 
at  New  York,  informing  him  of  the  state  of  affairs  at  the  settle 
ment,  and  the  fortunes  of  the  several  expeditions. 

The  task  of  carrying  supplies  to  Oakinagan  was  assigned  to 
Mr.  Robert  Stuart,  a  spirited  and  enterprising  young  man, 
nephew  to  the  one  who  had  established  the  post.  The  cache 
was  to  be  sought  out  by  two  of  the  clerks,  named  Russell 
Farnham  and  Donald  M'Grilles,  conducted  by  a  guide,  and 
accompanied  by  eight  men,  to  assist  in  bringing  home  the 
goods. 

As  to  the  dispatches,  they  were  confided  to  Mr.  John  Reed, 
the  clerk,  the  same  who  had  conducted  one  of  the  exploring 
detachments  of  Snake  River.  He  was  now  to  trace  back  his 
way  across  the  mountains  by  the  same  route  by  which  he  had 
come,  with  no  other  companions  or  escort  than  Ben  Jones,  the 
Kentucky  hunter,  and  two  Canadians.  As  it  was  still  hoped 
that  Mr.  Crooks  might  be  in  existence,  and  that  Mr.  Reed  and 
his  party  might  meet  with  him  in  the  course  of  their  route, 
they  were  charged  with  a  small  supply  of  goods  and  provisions, 
to  aid  that  gentleman  on  his  way  to  Astoria. 

When  the  expedition  of  Reed  Avas  made  known,  Mr.  M'Lellan 
announced  his  determination  to  accompany  it.  He  had  long 
been  dissatisfied  with  the  smallness  of  his  interest  in  the  co 
partnership,  and  had  requested  an  additional  number  of 
shares;  his  request  not  being  complied  with,  he  resolved  to 
abandon  the  country.  M'Lellan  was  a  man  of  singularly  self- 
willed  and  decided  character,  with  whom  persuasion  was 
useless;  he  was  permitted,  therefore,  to  take  his  own  course 
without  opposition. 


ASTORIA. 

As  to  Reed,  he  set  about  preparing  for  his  hazardous  journey 
with  the  zeal  of  a  true  Irishman.  He  had  a  tin  case  made,  in 
which  the  letters  and  papers  addressed  to  Mr.  Astor  were  care 
fully  soldered  up.  This  case  he  intended  to  strap  upon  his 
shoulders,  so  as  to  bear  it  about  with  him,  sleeping  and  wak 
ing,  in  all  changes  and  chances,  by  land  or  by  water,  and  never 
to  part  with  it  but  with  his  life ! 

As  the  route  of  these  several  parties  would  be  the  same  for 
nearly  four  hundred  miles  up  the  Columbia,  and  within  that 
distance  would  lie  through  the  piratical  pass  of  the  rapids,  and 
among  the  freebooting  tribes  of  the  river,  it  was  thought  ad 
visable  to  start  about  the  same  time,  and  to  keep  together. 
Accordingly,  011  the  22d  of  March  they  all  set  off,  to  the  num 
ber  of  seventeen  men,  in  two  canoes — and  here  we  cannot  but 
pause  to  notice  the  hardihood  of  these  several  expeditions,  so 
insignificant  in  point  of  force,  and  severally  destined  to 
traverse  immense  wildernesses,  where  larger  parties  had  ex 
perienced  so  much  danger  and  distress.  When  recruits  were 
sought  in  the  preceding  year  among  experienced  hunters  and 
voyageurs  at  Montreal  and  St.  Louis,  it  was  considered  dan 
gerous  to  attempt  to  cross  the  Eocky  Mountains  with  less  than 
sixty  men ;  and  yet  here  we  find  Eeed  ready  to  push  his  way 
across  those  barriers  with  merely  three  companions.  Such  is 
the  fearlessness,  the  insensibility  to  danger,  which  men  acquire 
by  the  habitude  of  constant  risk.  The  mind,  like  the  body, 
becomes  callous  by  exposure. 

The  little  associated  band  proceeded  up  the  river,  under  the 
command  of  Mr.  Robert  Stuart,  and  arrived  early  in  the 
month  of  April  at  the  Long  Narrows,  that  notorious  plunder 
ing  place.  Here  it  was  necessary  to  unload  the  canoes,  and  to 
transport  both  them  and  their  cargoes  to  the  head  of  the  Nar 
rows  by  land.  Their  party  was  too  few  in  number  for  the  pur 
pose.  They  were  obliged,  therefore,  to  seek  the  assistance  of 
the  Cathlasco  Indians,  who  undertook  to  carry  the  goods  on 
their  horses.  Forward  then  they  set,  the  Indians  with  their 
horses  well  freighted,  and  the  first  load  convoyed  by  Reed  and 
five  men,  well  armed;  the  gallant  Irishman  striding  along  at 
the  head,  with  his  tin  case  of  dispatches  glittering  on  his  back. 
In  passing,  however,  through  a  rocky  and  intricate  defile,  some 
of  the  freebooting  vagrants  turned  their  horses  up  a  narrow 
path  and  galloped  off,  carrying  with  them  two  bales  of  goods 
and  a  number  of  small  articles.  To  follow  them  was  useless; 
indeed,  it  was  with  much  ado  that  the  convoy  got  into  port 
•with  the  residue  of  the  cargoes;  for  some  of  the  guards  were 


ASTORIA.  263 

pillaged  of  their  knives  and  pocket-handkerchiefs,  and  the 
lustrous  tin  case  of  Mr.  John  Reed  was  in  imminent  jeopardy. 

Mr.  Stuart  heard  of  these  depredations,  and  hastened  for 
ward  to  the  relief  of  the  'convoy,  but  could  not  reach  them 
before  dusk,  by  which  time  they  had  arrived  at  the  village  of 
Wish-ram,  already  noted  for  its  great  fishery,  and  the  knavish 
propensities  of  its  inhabitants.  Here  they  found  themselves 
benighted  in  a  strange  place,  and  surrounded  by  savages  bent 
on  pilfering,  if  not  upon  open  robbery.  Not  knowing  what 
active  course  to  take,  they  remained  under  arms  all  night 
without  closing  an  eye,  and  at  the  very  first  peep  of  dawn, 
when  objects  were  yet  scarce  visible,  everything  was  hastily 
embarked,  and,  without  seeking  to  recover  the  stolen  effects, 
they  pushed  off  from  shore;  "  glad  to  bid  adieu,"  as  they  said, 
"  to  this  abominable  nest  of  miscreants." 

The  worthies  of  Wish  ram,  however,  were  not  disposed  to 
part  so  easily  with  their  visitors.  Their  cupidity  had  been 
quickened  by  the  plunder  Avhich  they  had  already  taken,  and 
their  confidence  increased  by  the  impunity  with  which  their 
outrage  had  passed.  They  resolved,  therefore,  to  take  further 
toll  of  the  travellers,  and,  if  possible,  to  capture  the  tin  case  of 
dispatches ;  which  shining  conspicuously  from  afar,  and  being 
guarded  by  John  Reed  with  such  especial  care,  must,  as  they 
supposed,  be  "  a  great  medicine. " 

Accordingly,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  comrades  had  not  proceeded 
far  in  the  canoes,  when  they  beheld  the  whole  rabble  of  Wish- 
ram  stringing  in  groups  along  the  bank,  whooping  and  yelling, 
and  gibbering  in  their  wild  jargon,  and  when  they  landed 
below  the  falls  they  were  surrounded  by  upward  of  four  hundred 
of  these  river  ruffians,  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  war 
clubs,  and  other  savage  weapons.  These  now  pressed  forward, 
with  offers  to  carry  the  canoes  and  effects  up  the  portage.  Mr. 
Stuart  declined  forwarding  the  goods,  alleging  the  lateness  of 
the  hour ;  but,  to  keep  them  in  good  humor,  informed  them, 
that,  if  they  conducted  themselves  well,  their  offered  services 
might  probably  be  accepted  in  the  morning ;  in  the  meanwhile 
he  suggested  that  they  might  carry  up  the  canoes.  They  ac 
cordingly  set  off  with  the  two  canoes  on  their  shoulders,  ac 
companied  by  a  guard  of  eight  men  well  armed. 

When  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  falls,  the  mischievous  spirit 
of  the  savages  broke  out,  and  they  were  on  the  point  of  de 
stroying  the  canoes,  doubtless  with  a  view  to  impede  the  white 
men  from  carrying  forward  their  goods,  and  laying  them  open 


264  ASTOIUA. 

to  further  pilfering.  They  were  with  some  difficulty  prevented 
from  committing  this  outrage  by  the  interference  of  an  old 
man,  who  appeared  to  have  authority  among  them ;  and,  in 
consequence  of  his  harangue,  the  whole  of  the  hostile  band, 
with  the  exception  of  about  fifty,  crossed  to  the  north  side  of 
the  river,  where  they  lay  in  wait,  ready  for  further  mischief. 

In  the  meantime,  Mr.  Stuart,  who  had  remained  at  the  foot 
of  the  falls  with  the  goods,  and  who  knew  that  the  proffered 
assistance  of  the  savages  was  only  for  the  purpose  of  having 
an  opportunity  to  plunder,  determined,  if  possible,  to  steal  a 
march  upon  them,  and  defeat  their  machinations.  In  the  dead 
of  the  night,  therefore,  about  one  o'clock,  the  moon  shining 
brightly,  he  roused  his  party,  and  proposed  that  they  should 
endeavor  to  transport  the  goods  themselves  above  the  falls, 
before  the  sleeping  savages  could  be  aware  of  their  operations. 
All  hands  sprang  to  the  work  with  zeal,  and  hurried  it  on  in 
the  hope  of  getting  all  over  before  daylight.  Mr.  Stuart  went 
forward  with  the  first  loads,  and  took  his  station  at  the  head 
of  the  portage,  while  Mr.  Heed  and  Mr.  M'Lellan  remained  at 
the  foot  to  forward  the  remainder. 

The  day  dawned  before  the  transportation  was  completed. 
Some  of  the  fifty  Indians  who  had  remained  on  the  south  side 
of  the  river,  perceived  what  was  going  on,  and,  feeling  them 
selves  too  weak  for  an  attack,  gave  the  alarm  to  those  on  the 
opposite  side,  upward  of  a  hundred  of  whom  embarked  in 
several  large  canoes.  Two  loads  of  goods  yet  remained  to  be 
brought  up.  Mr.  Stuart  dispatched  some  of  the  people  for  one 
of  the  loads,  with  a  request  to  Mr.  Reed  to  retain  with  him  as 
many  men  as  he  thought  necessary  to  guard  the  remaining 
load,  as  he  suspected  hostile  intentions  on  the  part  of  the  In 
dians.  Mr.  Reed,  however,  refused  to  retain  any  of  them,  say 
ing  that  M'Lellan  and  himself  were  sufficient  to  protect  the 
small  quantity  that  remained.  The  men  accordingly  departed 
with  the  load,  while  Reed  and  M'Lellan  continued  to  mount 
guard  over  the  residue.  By  this  time,  a  number  of  the  canoes 
had  arrived  from  the  opposite  side.  As  they  approached  the 
shore,  the  unlucky  tin  box  of  John  Reed,  shining  afar  like  the 
brilliant  helmet  of  Euryalus,  caught  their  eyes.  No  sooner  did 
the  canoes  touch  the  shore,  than  they  leaped  forward  on  the 
rocks,  set  up  a  war-whoop,  and  sprang  forward  to  secure  the 
glittering  prize.  Mr.  M'Lellan,  who  was  at  the  river  bank,  ad 
vanced  to  guard  the  goods,  when  one  of  the  savages  attempted 
to  hoodwink  him  with  his  buffalo  robe  with  one  hand,  and  to 


A&T01UA.  265 

stab  him  with  the  other.  M'Lellan  sprang  back  just  far  enough 
to  avoid  the  blow,  and  raising  his  rifle,  shot  the  ruffian  through 
the  heart. 

In  the  meantime,  Reed,  who  with  the  want  of  forethought 
of  an  Irishman,  had  neglected  to  remove  the  leathern  cover 
from  the  leek  of  his  rifle,  was  fumbling  at  the  fastenings,  when 
he  received  a  blow  on  the  head  with  a  war-club  that  laid  him 
senseless  on  the  ground.  In  a  twinkling  he  was  stripped  of  his 
rifle  and  pistols,  and  the  tin  box,  the  cause  of  all  this  onslaught, 
was  borne  off  in  triumph. 

At  this  critical  juncture,  Mr.  Stuart,  who  had  heard  the 
war-whoop,  hastened  to  the  scene  of  action  with  Ben  Jones, 
and  seven  others  of  the  men.  When  he  arrived,  Reed  was 
weltering  in  his  blood,  and  an  Indian  standing  over  him  and 
about  to  dispatch  him  with  a  tomahawk.  Stuart  gave  the 
word,  when  Ben  Jones  levelled  his  rifle,  and  shot  the  mis 
creant  on  the  spot.  The  men  then  gave  a  cheer  and  charged 
upon  the  main  body  of  the  savages,  who  took  to  instant  flight. 
Reed  was  now  raised  from  the  ground,  and  borne  senseless 
and  bleeding  to  the  upper  end  of  the  portage.  Preparations 
were  made  to  launch  the  canoes  and  embark  all  in  haste,  when 
it  was  found  that  they  were  too  leaky  to  be  put  in  the  water, 
and  that  the  oars  had  been  left  at  the  foot  of  the  falls.  A 
scene  of  confusion  now  ensued.  The  Indians  were  whooping 
and  yelling,  and  running  about  likfe  fiends.  A  panic  seized 
upon  the  men,  at  being  thus  suddenly  checked,  the  hearts  of 
some  of  the  Canadians  died  within  them,  and  two  young  men 
actually  fainted  away.  The  moment  they  recovered  their 
senses  Mr.  Stuart  ordered  that  they  should  be  deprived  of 
their  arms,  their  under-garments  taken  off,  and  that  a  piece 
of  cloth  should  be  tied  round  their  waists,  in  imitation  of  a 
squaw;  an  Indian  punishment  for  cowardice.  Thus  equipped, 
they  were  stowed  away  among  the  goods  in  one  of  the  canoes. 
This  ludicrous  affair  excited  the  mirth  of  the  bolder  spirits, 
even  in  the  midst  of  their  perils,  and  roused  the  pride  of  the 
wavering.  The  Indians  having  crossed  back  again  to  the 
north  side,  order  was  restored,-  some  of  the  hands  were  sent 
back  for  the  oars,  others  set  to  work  to  calk  and  launch  the 
canoes,  and  in  a  little  while  all  were  embarked  and  were  con 
tinuing  their  voyage  along  the  southern  shore. 

No  sooner  had  they  departed,  than  the  Indians  returned  to 
the  scene  of  action,  bore  off  their  two  comrades,  who  had  been 
shot,  one  of  whom  was  still  living,  and  returned  to  their  vil- 


266  ASTORIA. 

lage.  Here  they  killed  two  horses ;  and  drank  the  hot  blood 
to  give  fierceness  to  their  courage.  They  painted  and  arrayed 
themselves  hideously  for  battle;  performed  the  dead  dance 
round  the  slain,  and  raised  the  war  song  of  vengeance.  Then 
mounting  their  horses,  to  the  number  of  four  hundred  and 
fifty  men,  and  brandishing  their  weapons,  they  set  off  along 
the  northern  bank  of  the  river,  to  get  ahead  of  the  canoes, 
lie  in  wait  for  them,  and  take  a  terrible  revenge  on  the  white 
men. 

They  succeeded  in  getting  some  distance  above  the  canoes 
without  being  discovered,  and  were  crossing  the  river  to  post 
themselves  on  the  side  along  which  the  white  men  were  coast 
ing,  when  they  were  fortunately  descried.  Mr.  Stuart  and  his 
companions  were  immediately  on  the  alert.  As  they  drew 
near  to  the  place  where  the  savages  had  crossed,  they  ob 
served  them  posted  among  steep  and  overhanging  rocks, 
close  along  which  the  canoes  would  have  to  pass.  Finding 
that  the  enemy  had  the  advantage  of  the  ground,  the  whites 
stopped  short  when  within  five  hundred  yards  of  them,  and 
discharged  and  reloaded  their  pieces.  They  then  made  a  fire 
and  dressed  the  wounds  of  Mr.  Reed,  who  had  received  five 
severe  gashes  in  the  head.  This  being  done,  they  lashed  the 
canoes  together,  fastened  them  to  a  rock  at  a  small  distance 
from  the  shore,  and  there  awaited  the  menaced  attack. 

They  had  not  been  long  posted  in  this  manner,  when  they 
saw  a  canoe  approaching.  It  contained  a  war-chief  of  the 
tribe  and  three  of  his  principal  warriors.  He  drew  near  and 
made  a  long  harangue,  in  which  he  informed  them  that  they 
had  killed  one  and  wounded  another  of  his  nation ;  that  the 
relations  of  the  slain  cried  out  for  vengeance,  and  he  had 
been  compelled  to  lead  them  to  fight.  Still  he  wished  to 
spare  unnecessary  bloodshed,  he  proposed,  therefore,  that  Mr. 
Reed,  who,  he  observed,  was  little  better  than  a  dead  man,  might 
be  given  up  to  be  sacrificed  to  the  manes  of  the  deceased  war 
rior.  This  would  appease  the  fury  of  his  friends :  the  hatchet 
would  then  be  buried,  and  all  thenceforward  would  be  friends. 
The  answer  was  a  stern  refusal  and  a  defiance,  and  the  war- 
chief  saw  that  the  canoes  were  well  prepared  for  a  vigorous 
defence.  He  withdrew,  therefore,  and  returning  to  his  war 
riors  among  the  rocks  held  long  deliberations.  Blood  for  blood 
is  a  principle  in  Indian  equity  and  Indian  honor ;  but  though 
the  inhabitants  of  Wish-ram  were  men  of  war,  they  were  like 
wise  men  of  traffic,  and  it  was  suggested  that  honor  for  once 


ASTORIA.  267 

might  give  way  to  profit.  A  negotiation  was  accordingly 
opened  with  the  white  men,  and  after  some  diplomacy  the 
matter  was  compromised  for  a  blanket  to  cover  the  dead,  and 
some  tobacco  to  be  smoked  by  the  living.  This  being  granted, 
the  heroes  of  Wish-ram  crossed  the  river  once  more,  returned 
to  their  village  to  feast  upon  the  horses  whose  blood  they  had 
so  vain-gloriously  drunk,  and  the  travellers  pursued  their  voy 
age  without  further  molestation. 

The  tin  case,  however,  containing  the  important  dispatches 
for  New  York,  was  irretrievably  lost;  the  very  precaution 
taken  by  the  worthy  Hibernian  to  secure  his  missives,  had,  by 
rendering  them  conspicuous,  produced  their  robbery.  The  ob 
ject  of  his  overland  journey,  therefore,  being  defeated,  he  gave 
up  the  expedition.  The  whole  party  repaired  with  Mr.  Robert 
Stuart  to  the  establishment  of  Mr.  David  Stuart,  on  the  Oaki- 
nagan  River.  After  remaining  here  two  or  three  days  they  all 
set  out  on  their  return  to  Astoria,  accompanied  by  Mr.  David 
Stuart.  This  gentleman  had  a  large  Quantity  of  beaver  skins 
at  his  establishment,  but  did  not  think  it  prudent  to  take  them 
with  him,  fearing  the  levy  of  "  black  mail "  at  the  falls. 

On  their  way  down,  when  below  the  forks  of  the  Columbia, 
they  were  hailed  one  day  from  the  shore  in  English.  Looking 
around,  they  descried  two  wretched  men,  entirely  naked. 
They  pulled  to  shore ;  the  men  came  up  and  made  themselves 
known.  They  proved  to  be  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  faithful  fol 
lower,  John  Day. 

The  reader  will  recollect  that  Mr.  Crooks,  with  Day  and  four 
Canadians,  had  been  so  reduced  by  famine  and  fatigue,  that 
Mr.  Hunt  was  obliged  to  leave  them,  in  the  month  of  Decem 
ber,  on  the  banks  of  the  Snake  River.  Their  situation  was  the 
more  critical,  as  they  were  in  the  neighborhood  of  a  band  of 
Shoshonies,  whose  horses  had  been  forcibly  seized  by  Mr. 
Hunt's  party  for  provisions.  Mr.  Crooks  remained  here 
twenty  days,  detained  by  the  extremely  reduced  state  of  John 
Day,  who  was  utterly  unable  to  travel,  and  whom  he  would 
not  abandon,  as  Day  had  been  in  his  employ  on  the  Missouri, 
and  had  always  proved  himself  most  faithful.  Fortunately 
the  Shoshonies  did  not  offer  to  molest  them.  They  had  never 
before  seen  white  men,  and  seemed  to  entertain  some  supersti 
tions  with  regard  to  them,  for,  though  they  would  encamp  near 
them  in  the  day  time,  they  would  move  off  with  their  tents  in 
the  night:  and  finally  disappeared,  without  taking  leave. 

When  Day  was  sufficiently  recovered  to  travel,  they  kept 


268  ASTORIA. 

feebly  on,  sustaining  themselves  as  well  as  they  could,  until  in 
the  month  of  February,  when  three  of  the  Canadians,  fearful 
of  perishing  with  want,  left  Mr.  Crooks  on  a  small  river,  on  the 
road  by  which  Mr.  Hunt  had  passed  in  quest  of  Indians.  Mr. 
Crooks  followed  Mr.  Hunt's  track  in  the  snow  for  several  days, 
sleeping  as  usual  in  the  open  air,  and  suffering  all  kinds  of 
hardships.  At  length,  coming  to  a  low  prairie,  he  lost  every 
appearance  of  the  "trail,"  and  wandered  during  the  remainder 
of  the  winter  in  the  mountains,  subsisting  sometimes  on  horse- 
meat,  sometimes  on  beavers  and  their  skins,  and  a  part  of  the 
time  on  roots. 

About  the  last  of  March,  the  other  Canadian  gave  out,  and 
was  left  with  a  lodge  of  Shoshonies ;  but  Mr.  Crooks  and  John 
Day  still  kept  on,  and  finding  the  snow  sufficiently  diminished, 
undertook,  from  Indian  information,  to  cross  the  last  moun 
tain  ridge.  They  happily  succeeded,  and  afterward  fell  in  with 
the  Wallah- Wallahs,  a  tribe  of  Indians  inhabiting  the  banks  of 
a  river  of  the  same  name,  and  reputed  as  being  frank,  hospita 
ble,  and  sincere.  They  proved  worthy  of  the  character,  for 
they  received  the  poor  wanderers  kindly,  killed  a  horse  for 
them  to  eat,  and  directed  them  on  their  way  to  the  Columbia. 
They  struck  the  river  about  the  middle  of  April,  and  advanced 
down  it  one  hundred  miles,  until  they  came  within  about 
twenty  miles  of  the  falls. 

Here  they  me^  with  some  of  the  "chivalry"  of  that  noted 
pass,  who  received  them  in  a  friendly  way,  and  set  food  before 
them;  but,  while  they  were  satisfying  their  hunger,  perfid 
iously  seized  their  rifles.  They  then  stripped  them  naked,  and 
drove  them  off,  refusing  the  entreaties  of  Mr.  Crooks  for  a  flint 
and  steel  of  which  they  had  robbed  him ;  and  threatening  his 
life  if  he  did  not  instantly  depart. 

In  this  forlorn  plight,  still  worse  off  than  before,  they  re 
newed  their  wanderings.  They  now  sought  to  find  their  way 
back  to  the  hospitable  Wallah- Wallahs,  and  had  advanced 
eighty  miles  along  the  river,  when  fortunately,  on  the  very 
morning  that  they  were  going  to  leave  the  Columbia,  and 
strike  inland,  the  canoes  of  Mr.  Stuart  hove  in  sight. 

It  is  needless  to  describe  the  joy  of  these  poor  men  at  once 
more  finding  themselves  among  countrymen  and  friends,  or  of 
the  honest  and  hearty  welcome  with  which  they  were  received 
by  their  fellow  adventurers.  The  whole  party  now  continued 
down  the  river,  passed  all  the  dangerous  places  without  inter 
ruption,  and  arrived  safely  at  Astoria  on  the  llth  of  May. 


ASTORIA.  269 


CHAPTER  XLII. 

HAVING  traced  the  fortunes  of  the  two  expeditions  by  sea 
and  land  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and  presented  a  view 
of  affairs  at  Astoria,  we  will  return  for  a  moment  to  the  master 
spirit  of  the  enterprise  who  regulated  the  springs  of  Astoria,  at 
his  residence  in  New  York. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  a  part  of  the  plan  of  Mr.  Astor 
was  to  furnish  the  Eussian  fur  establishment  on  the  north-west 
coast  with  regular  supplies,  so  as  to  render  it  independent  of 
those  casual  vessels  which  cut  up  the  trade  and  supplied  the 
natives  Avith  arms.  This  plan  had  been  countenanced  by  our 
own  government,  and  likewise  by  Count  Pahlem,  the  Russian 
Minister  at  Washington.  As  its  views,  however,  were  impor 
tant  and  extensive,  and  might  eventually  affect  a  wide  course 
of  commerce,  Mr.  Astor  was  desirous  of  establishing  a  complete 
arrangement  on  the  subject  with  the  Russian  American  Fur 
Company,  under  the  sanction  of  the  Russian  Government. 
For  this  purpose,  in  March,  1811,  he  dispatched  a  confidential 
agent  to  St.  Petersburgh,  fully  empowered  to  enter  into  the 
requisite  negotiations.  A  passage  was  given  to  this  gentleman 
by  the  government  of  the  United  States,  in  the  John  Adams, 
one  of  its  armed  vessels,  bound  to  a  European  port. 

The  next  step  of  Mr.  Astor  was,  to  dispatch  the  annual  ship 
contemplated  in  his  general  plan.  He  had  as  yet  heard  nothing 
of  the  success  of  the  previous  expeditions,  and  had  to  proceed 
upon  the  presumption  that  everything  had  been  effected  ac 
cording  to  his  instructions.  He  accordingly  fitted  out  a  fine 
ship  of  four  hundred  and  ninety  tons,  called  the  Beaver,  and 
freighted  her  with  a  valuable  cargo,  destined  for  the  factory, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  the  trade  along  the  coast,  and 
the  supply  of  the  Russian  establishment.  In  this  ship  em 
barked  a  reinforcement,  consisting  of  a  partner,  five  clerks, 
fifteen  American  laborers,  and  six  Canadian  voyageurs.  In 
choosing  his  agents  for  his  first  expedition,  Mr.  Astor  had  been 
obliged  to  have  recourse  to  British  subjects  experienced  in  the 
Canadian  fur  trade ;  henceforth  it  was  his  intention,  as  much 
as  possible,  to  select  Americans,  so  as  to  secure  an  ascendency 
of  American  influence  in  the  management  of  the  company,  and 
to  make  it  decidedly  national. 


270  ASTORIA. 

Accordingly,  Mr.  John  Clarke,  the  partner,  who  took  the 
lead  in  the  present  expedition,  was  a  native  of  the  United 
States,  though  he  had  passed  much  of  his  life  in  the  north-west, 
having  been  employed  in  the  fur  trade  since  the  age  of  sixteen. 
Most  of  the  clerks  were  young  gentlemen  of  good  connections 
in  the  American  cities,  some  of  whom  embarked  in  the  hope  of 
gain,  others  through  the  mere  spirit  of  adventure  incident  to 
youth. 

The  instructions  given  by  Mr.  Astor  to  Captain  Sowle,  the 
commander  of  the  Beaver,  were,  in  some  respects,  hypotheti 
cal,  in  consequence  of  the  uncertainty  resting  upon  the  previ 
ous  steps  of  the  enterprise. 

He  was  to  touch  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  inquire  about  the 
fortunes  of  the  Tonquin,  and  whether  an  establishment  had 
been  formed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  If  so,  he  was  to 
take  as  many  Sandwich  Islanders  as  his  ship  would  accommo 
date,  and  proceed  hither.  On  arriving  at  the  river,  he  was  to 
observe  great  caution,  for  even  if  an  establishment  should  have 
been  formed,  it  might  have  fallen  into  hostile  hands.  He  was, 
therefore,  to  put  in  as  if  by  casualty  or  distress,  to  give  him 
self  out  as  a  coasting  trader,  and  to  say  nothing  about  his  ship 
being  owned  by  Mr.  Astor,  until  he  had  ascertained  that  every 
thing  was  right.  In  that  case,  he  was  to  land  such  part  of  his 
cargo  as  was  intended  for  the  establishment,  and  to  proceed  to 
New  Archangel  with  the  supplies  intended  for  the  Eussian  post 
at  that  place,  where  he  could  receive  peltries  in  payment. 
With  these  he  was  to  return  to  Astoria ;  take  in  the  furs  col 
lected  there,  and,  having  completed  his  cargo  by  trading  along 
the  coast,  was  to  proceed  to  Canton.  The  captain  received  the 
same  injunctions  that  had  been  given  to  Captain  Thorn  of  the 
Tonquin,  of  great  caution  and  circumspection  in  his  inter 
course  with  the  natives,  and  that  he  should  not  permit  more 
than  one  or  two  to  be  on  board  at  a  time. 

The  Beaver  sailed  from  New  York  on  the  10th  of  October, 
1811,  and  reached  the  Sandwich  Islands  without  any  occur 
rence  of  moment.  Here  a  rumor  was  heard  of  the  disastrous 
fate  of  tho  Tonquin.  Deep  solicitude  was  felt  by  every  one  on 
board  for  the  fate  of  both  expeditions,  by  sea  and  land.  Doubts 
were  entertained  whether  any  establishment  had  been  formed 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  or  whefher  any  of  the  company 
would  be  found  there.  After  much  deliberation,  the  captain 
took  twelve  Sandwich  Islanders  on  board,  for  the  service  of 


ASTORIA.  271 

the  factory,  should  there  be  one  in  existence,  and  proceeded 
on  his  voyage. 

On  the  6th  of  May  he  arrived  off  the  mouth  of  the  Colum 
bia,  and  running  as  near  as  possible,  fired  two  signal-guns.  No 
answer  was  returned,  nor  was  there  any  signal  to  be  descried. 
Night  coming  on,  the  ship  stood  out  to  sea,  and  every  heart 
drooped  as  the  land  faded  away.  On  the  following  morning 
bhey  again  ran  in  within  four  miles  of  the  shore,  and  fired 
other  signal-guns,  but  still  without  reply.  A  boat  was  then 
dispatched,  to  sound  the  channel,  and  attempt  an  entrance; 
but  returned  without  success,  there  being  a  tremendous  swell, 
and  breakers.  Signal-guns  were  fired  again  in  the  evening, 
but  equally  in  vain,  and  once  more  the  ship  stood  off  to  sea  for 
the  night.  The  captain  now  gave  up  all  hope  of  finding  any 
establishment  at  the  place,  and  indulged  in  the  most  gloomy 
apprehensions.  He  feared  his  predecessors  had  been  massacred 
before  they  had  reached  their  place  of  destination ;  or  if  they 
should  have  erected  a  factory,  that  it  had  been  surprised  and 
destroyed  by  the  natives. 

In  this  moment  of  doubt  and  uncertainty,  Mr.  Clarke  an 
nounced  his  determination,  in  case  of  the  worst,  to  found  an 
establishment  with  the  present  party,  and  all  hands  bravely 
engaged  to  stand  by  him  in  the  undertaking.  The  next  morn 
ing  the  ship  stood  in  for  the  third  time,  and  fired  three  signal- 
guns,  but  with  little  hope  of  reply.  To  the  great  joy  of  the 
crew,  three  distinct  guns  were  heard  in  answer.  The  appre 
hensions  of  all  but  Captain  Sowle  were  now  at  rest.  That  cau 
tious  commander  recollected  the  instructions  given  him  by 
Mr.  Astor,  and  determined  to  proceed  with  great  circumspec 
tion.  He  was  well  aware  of  Indian  treachery  and  cunning.  It 
was  not  impossible,  he  observed,  that  these  cannon  might  have 
been  fired  by  the  savages  themselves.  They  might  have  sur 
prised  the  fort,  massacred  its  inmates ;  and  these  signal-guns 
might  only  be  decoys  to  lure  him  across  the  bar,  that  they 
might  have  a  chance  of  cutting  him  off,  and  seizing  his 
vessel. 

At  length  a  white  flag  was  descried  hoisted  as  a  signal  on 
Cape  Disappointment.  The  passengers  pointed  to  it  in  tri 
umph,  but  the  captain  did  not  yet  dismiss  his  doubts.  A  bea 
con  fire  blazed  through  the  night  on  the  same  place,  but  the 
captain  observed  that  all  these  signals  might  be  treacherous. 

On  the  following  morning,  May  9th,  the  vessel  came  to 
anchor  off  Cape  Disappointment,  outside  of  the  bar.  Toward 


272  ASTORIA. 

noon  an  Indian  canoe  was  seen  making  for  the  ship  and  all 
hands  were  ordered  to  be  on  the  alert.  A  few  moments  after 
ward,  a  barge  was  perceived  following  the  canoe.  The  hopes 
and  fears  of  those  on  board  of  the  ship  were  in  tumultuous 
agitation,  as  the  boat  drew  nigh  that  was  to  let  them  know  the 
fortunes  of  the  enterprise,  and  the  fate  of  their  predecessors. 
The  captain,  who  was  haunted  with  the  idea  of  possible  treach 
ery,  did  not  suffer  his  curiosity  to  get  the  better  of  his  caution, 
but  ordered  a  party  of  his  men  under  arms,  to  receive  the  visit 
ors.  The  canoe  came  first  alongside,  in  which  were  Comcomly 
and  six  Indians;  in  the  barge  were  M'Dougal,  M'Lellan,  and 
eight  Canadians.  A  little  conversation  with  these  gentlemen 
dispelled  all  the  captain's  fears,  and  the  Beaver  crossing  the 
bar  under  their  pilotage,  anchored  safely  in  Baker's  Bay. 


CHAPTER  XLIIL 

THE  arrival  of  the  Beaver  with  a  reinforcement  and  sup 
plies,  gave  new  life  and  vigor  to  affairs  at  Astoria.  These 
were  means  for  extending  the  operations  of  the  establish 
ment,  and  founding  interior  trading  posts.  Two  parties  were 
immediately  set  on  foot  to  proceed  severally  under  the  com 
mand  of  Messrs.  M'Kenzie  and  Clarke,  and  establish  posts 
above  the  forks  of  the  Columbia,  at  points  where  most  rivalry 
and  opposition  were  apprehended  from  the  North-west  Com 
pany. 

A  third  party,  headed  by  Mr.  David  Stuart,  was  to  repair 
with  supplies  to  the  post  of  that  gentleman  on  the  Oakina- 
gan.  In  addition  to  these  expeditions  a  fourth  was  necessary 
to  convey  dispatches  to  Mr.  Astor,  at  New  York,  in  place  of 
those  unfortunately  lost  by  John  Eeed.  The  safe  conveyance 
of  these  dispatches  was  highly  important,  as  by  them  Mr. 
Astor  would  receive  an  account  of  the  state  of  the  factory, 
and  regulate  his  reinforcements  and  supplies  accordingly. 
The  mission  was  one  of  peril  and  hardship,  and  required  a 
man  of  nerve  and  vigor.  It  was  confided  to  Robert  Stuart, 
who,  though  he  had  never  been  across  the  mountains,  and  a 
very  young  man,  had  given  proofs  of  his  competenc}7"  to  the 
task.  Four  trusty  and  well-tried  men,  who  had  come  over- 


ASTORIA.  273 

land  in  Mr.  Hunt's  expedition,  were  given  as  his  guides  and 
hunters.  These  were  Ben  Jones  and  John  Day,  the  Kentuck- 
ians,  and  Andri  Vallar  and  Francis  Le  Clerc,  Canadians. 
Mr.  M'Lellan  again  expressed  his  determination  to  take  this 
opportunity  of  returning  to  the  Atlantic  States.  In  this  he 
was  joined  by  Mr.  Crooks,  who,  notwithstanding  all  that  he 
had  suffered  in  the  dismal  journey  of  the  preceding  winter, 
was  ready  to  retrace  his  steps  and  brave  every  danger  and 
hardship,  rather  than  remain  at  Astoria.  This  little  handful 
of  adventurous  men  we  propose  to  accompany  in  its  long 
and  perilous  peregrinations. 

The  several  parties  we  have  mentioned  all  set  off  in  company 
on  the  29th  of  June,  under  a  salute  of  cannon  from  the  fort. 
They  were  to  keep  together,  for  mutual  protection,  through 
the  piratical  passes  of  the  river,  and  to  separate,  on  their  dif 
ferent  destinations,  at  the  forks  of  the  Columbia.  Their  num 
ber,  collectively,  was  nearly  sixty,  consisting  of  partners  and 
clerks,  Canadian  voyageurs,  Sandwich  Islanders,  and  Ameri 
can  hunters;  and  they  embarked  in  two  barges  and  ten 
canoes. 

They  had  scarcely  got  under  way,  when  John  Day,  the  Ken 
tucky  hunter,  became  restless  and  uneasy,  and  extremely 
wayward  in  his  deportment.  This  caused  surprise,  for  in 
general,  he  was  remarkable  for  his  cheerful,  manly  deport 
ment.  It  was  supposed  that  the  recollection  of  past  sufferings 
might  harass  his  mind  in  undertaking  to  retrace  the  scenes 
where  they  had  been  experienced.  As  the  expedition  ad 
vanced,  however,  his  agitation  increased.  He  began  to  talk 
wildly  and  incoherently,  and  to  show  manifest  symptoms  of 
derangement. 

Mr.  Crooks  now  informed  his  companions  that  in  his  desolate 
wanderings  through  the  Snake  River  country  during  the  pre 
ceding  winter,  in  which  he  had  been  accompanied  by  John 
Day,  the  poor  fellow's  wits  had  been  partially  unsettled  by 
the  sufferings  and  horrors  through  which  they  had  passed,  and 
he  doubted  whether  they  had  ever  been  restored  to  perfect 
sanity.  It  was  still  hoped  that  this  agitation  of  spirit  might 
pass  away  as  they  proceeded;  but,  on  the  contrary,  it  grew 
more  and  more  violent.  His  comrades  endeavored  to  divert 
his  mind  and  to  draw  him  into  rational  conversation,  but  he 
only  became  the  more  exasperated,  uttering  wild  and  inco 
herent  ravings.  The  sip;ht  of  any  of  the  natives  put  him  in  an 
absolute  fury,  and  lie  would  heap  on  them  the  most  opprobri- 


274  ASTORIA. 

ous  epithets;  recollecting,  no  doubt,  what   he  had  suffered 
from  Indian  robbers. 

On  the  evening  of  the  2d  of  July  he  became  absolutely  fran 
tic,  and  attempted  to  destroy  himself.  Being  disarmed,  he 
sank  into  quietude,  and  professed  the  greatest  remorse  for  the 
crime  he  had  meditated.  He  then  pretended  to  sleep,  and  hav 
ing  thus  lulled  suspicion,  suddenly  sprang  up,  just  before  day 
light,  seized  a  pair  of  loaded  pistols,  and  endeavored  to  blow 
out  his  brains.  In  his  hurry  he  fired  too  high,  and  the  balls 
passed  over  his  head.  He  was  instantly  secured  and  placed 
under  a  guard  in  one  of  the  boats.  How  to  dispose  of  him  was 
now  the  question,  as  it  was  impossible .  to  keep  him  with  the 
expedition.  Fortunately  Mr.  Stuart  met  with  some  Indians 
accustomed  to  trade  with  Astoria.  These  undertook  to  con 
duct  John  Day  back  to  the  factory,  and  deliver  him  there  in 
safety.  It  was  with  the  utmost  concern  that  his  comrades 
saw  the  poor  fellow  depart ;  for,  independent  of  his  invaluable 
services  as  a  first-rate  hunter,  his  frank  and  loyal  qualities  had 
made  him  a  universal  favorite.  It  may  be  as  well  to  add  that 
the  Indians  executed  their  task  faithfully,  and  landed  John 
Day  among  his  friends  at  Astoria;  but  his  constitution  was 
completely  broken  by  the  hardships  he  had  undergone,  and  he 
died  within  a  year. 

On  the  evening  of  the  6th  of  July  the  party  arrived  at  the 
piratical  pass  of  the  river,  and  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the 
first  rapid.  The  next  day,  before  the  commencement  of  the 
portage,  the  greatest  precautions  were  taken  to  guard  against 
lurking  treachery,  or  open  attack.  The  weapons  of  every  man 
were  put  in  order,  and  his  cartridge-box  replenished.  Each 
one  wore  a  kind  of  surcoat  made  of  the  skin  of  the  elk,  reach 
ing  from  his  neck  to  his  knees,  and  answering  the  purpose  of  a 
shirt  of  mail,  for  it  was  arrow  proof,  and  it  could  even  resist  a 
musket  ball  at  the  distance  of  ninety  yards.  Thus  armed  and 
equipped,  they  posted  their  forces  in  military  style.  Five  of 
jhe  officers  took  their  stations  at  each  end  of  the  portage, 
which  was  between  three  and  i'our  miles  in  length ;  a  number 
of  men  mounted  guard  at  short  distances  along  the  heights 
immediately  overlooking  the  river,  while  the  residue,  thus 
protected  from  surprise,  employed  themselves  below  in  drag 
ging  up  the  barges  and  canoes,  and  carrying  up  the  goods 
along  the  narrow  margin  of  the  rapids.  With  these  precau 
tions  they  all  passed  unmolested.  The  only  accident  that  hap 
pened  was  the  upsetting  of  one  of  the  canoes,  by  which  some 


ASTORIA.  275 

of  the  goods  sunk,  and  others  floated  down  the  stream.  The 
alertness  and  rapacity  of  the  hordes  which  infest  these  rapids, 
were  immediately  apparent.  They  pounced  upon  the  floating 
merchandise  with  the  keenness  of  regular  wreckers.  A  bale 
of  goods  which  landed  upon  one  of  the  islands  was  immediately 
ripped  open,  one  hall  of  its  contents  divided  among  the  cap 
tives,  and  the  other  half  secreted  in  a  lonely  hut  in  a  deep 
ravine.  Mr.  Robert  Stuart,  however,  set  out  in  a  canoe  with 
five  men  and  an  interpreter,  ferreted  out  the  wreckers  in  their 
retreat,  and  succeeded  in  wresting  from  them  their  booty. 

Similar  precautions  to  those  already  mentioned,  and  to  a  still 
greater  extent,  were  observed  in  passing  the  long  narrows,  and 
the  falls,  where  they  would  be  exposed  to  the  depredations  of 
the  chivalry  of  Wish-ram,  and  its  freebooting  neighborhood. 
In  fact,  they  had  scarcely  set  their  first  watch  one  night,  when 
an  alarm  of  " Indians!"  was  given.  "To  arms!"  was  the  cry, 
and  every  man  was  at  his  post  in  an  instant.  The  alarm  was 
explained ;  a  war  party  of  Shoshonies  had  surprised  a  canoe  of 
the  natives  just  below  the  encampment,  had  murdered  four 
men  and  two  women,  and  it  was  apprehended  they  would 
attack  the  camp.  The  boats  and  canoes  were  immediately 
hauled  up,  a  breastwork  was  made  of  them,  and  the  packages, 
forming  three  sides  01  a  square,  with  the  river  in  the  rear,  and 
thus  the  party  remained  fortified  throughout  the  night. 

The  dawn,  however,  dispelled  the  alarm;  the  portage  was 
conducted  in  peace;  the  vagabond  warriors  of  the  vicinity 
hovered  about  them  while  at  work,  but  were  kept  at  a  wary 
distance.  They  regarded  the  loads  of  merchandise  with  wist 
ful  eyes,  but  seeing  the  ' '  long-beards"  so  formidable  in  num 
ber,  and  so  well  prepared  for  action,  they  made  no  attempt, 
either  by  open  force  or  sly  pilfering  to  collect  their  usual  toll, 
but  maintained  a  peaceful  demeanor,  and  were  afterward  re 
warded  for  their  good  conduct  with  presents  of  tobacco. 

Fifteen  days  were  consumed  in  ascending  from  the  foot  of 
the  first  rapid,  fco  the  head  of  the  falls,  a  distance  of  about 
eighty  miles,  but  full  of  all  kinds  of  obstructions.  Having 
happily  accomplished  these  difficult  portages,  the  party,  on 
the  19th  of  July,  arrived  at  a  smoother  part  of  the  river,  and 
pursued  their  way  up  the  stream  with  greater  speed  and 
facility. 

They  were  now  in  the  neighborhood  where  Mr.  Crooks  and 
John  Day  had  been  so  perfidiously  robbed  and  stripped  a  few 
months  previously,  when  confiding  in  the  proffered  hospitality 


276  ASTORIA. 

of  a  ruffian  band.  On  landing  at  night,  therefore,  a  vigilant 
guard  was  maintained  about  the  camp.  On  the  following 
morning  a  number  of  Indians  made  their  appearance,  and 
came  prowling  round  the  party  while  at  breakfast.  To  his 
great  delight  Mr.  Crooks  recognized  among  them  two  of  the 
miscreants  by  whom  he  had  been  robbed.  They  were  instantly 
seized,  bound  hand  and  foot,  and  thrown  into  one  of  the  canoes. 
Here  they  lay  in  doleful  fright,  expecting  summary  execution. 
Mr.  Crooks,  however,  was  not  of  a  revengeful  disposition,  and 
agreed  to  release  the  culprits  as  soon  as  the  pillaged  property 
should  be  restored.  Several  savages  immediately  started  off 
in  different  directions,  and  before  night  the  rifles  of  Crooks 
and  Day  were  produced ;  several  of  the  smaller  articles  pilfered 
from  them,  however,  could  not  be  recovered. 

The  bands  of  the  culprits  were  then  removed,  and  they  lost 
no  time  in  taking  their  departure,  still  under  the  influence  of 
abject  terror,  and  scarcely  crediting  their  senses  that  they  had 
escaped  the  merited  punishment  of  their  offences. 

The  country  on  each  side  of  the  river  now  began  to  assume  a 
different  character.  The  hills,  and  cliffs,  and  forests  disap 
peared  ;  vast  sandy  plains,  scantily  clothed  here  and  there 
with  short  tufts  of  grass,  parched  by  the  summer  sun,  stretched 
far  a'.vay  to  the  north  and  south.  The  river  was  occasionally 
obstructed  with  rocks  and  rapids,  but  often  there  were  smooth, 
placid  intervals,  where  the  current  was  gentle,  and  the  boat 
men  were  enabled  to  lighten  their  labors  with  the  assistance  of 
the  sail. 

The  natives  in  this  part  of  the  river  resided  entirely  on  the 
northern  side.  They  were  hunters,  as  well  as  fishermen,  and 
had  horses  in  plenty.  Some  of  these  were  purchased  by  the 
party,  as  provisions,  and  killed  on  the  spot,  though  they  occa 
sionally  found  a  difficulty  in  procuring  fuel  wherewith  to  cook 
them.  One  of  the  greatest  dangers  that  beset  the  travellers  in 
this  part  of  their  expedition,  was  the  vast  number  of  rattle 
snakes  which  infested  the  rocks  about  the  rapids  and  portages, 
and  on  which  the  men  were  in  danger  of  treading.  They  were 
often  found,  too,  in  quantities  about  the  encampments.  In  one 
place  a  nest  of  them  lay  coiled  together,  basking  in  the  sun. 
Several  guns  loaded  with  shot  were  discharged  at  them,  and 
thirty-seven  killed  and  wounded.  To  prevent  any  unwelcome 
visits  from  them  in  the  night,  tobacco  was  occasionally  strewed 
around  the  tents,  a  weed  for  which  they  have  a  very  proper 
abhorrence. 


ASTORIA. 

On  the  28th  of  July,  the  travellers  arrived  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Wallah- Wallah,  a  bright,  clear  stream,  about  six  feet  deep 
and  fifty-five  yards  wide,  which  flows  rapidly  over  a  bed  of 
sand  and  gravel,  and  throws  itself  into  the  Columbia,  a  few 
miles  below  Lewis  River.  Here  the  combined  parties  that  had 
thus  far  voyaged  together  were  to  separate,  each  for  its  partic 
ular  destination. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Wallah- Wallah  lived  the  hospitable 
tribo  of  the  same  name  who  had  succored  Mr.  Crooks  and  John 
Day  in  the  time  of  their  extremity.  No  sooner  did  they  hear 
of  the  arrival  of  the  party,  than  they  hastened  to  greet  them. 
They  built  a  great  bonfire  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  before  the 
camp,  and  men  and  women  danced  round  it  to  the  cadence  of 
their  songs,  in  which  they  sang  the  praises  of  the  white  men, 
and  welcomed  them  to  their  country. 

On  the  following  day  a  traffic  was  commenced,  to  procure 
horses  for  such  of  the  party  as  intended  to  proceed  by  land. 
The  Wallah- Wallahs  are  an  equestrian  tribe.  The  equipments 
of  their  horses  were  rude  and  inconvenient.  High  saddles, 
roughly  made  of  deer  skin,  stuffed  with  hair,  which  chafe  the 
horse's  back,  and  leave  it  raw ;  wooden  stirrups  with  a  thong 
of  raw  hide  wrapped  round  them ;  and  for  bridles  they  have 
cords  of  twisted  horse-hair,  which  they  tie  round  the  under 
jaw.  They  are,  like  most  Indians,  bold  but  hard  riders,  and 
when  on  horseback  gallop  about  the  most  dangerous  places, 
without  fear  for  themselves,  or  pity  for  their  steeds. 

From  these  people  Mr.  Stuart  purchased  twenty  horses  for 
his  party ;  some  for  the  saddle,  and  others  to  transport  the  bag 
gage.  He  was  fortunate  in  procuring  a  noble  animal  for  his 
own  use,  which  was  praised  by  the  Indians  for  its  great  speed 
and  bottom,  and  a  high  price  set  upon  it.  No  people  under 
stand  better  the  value  of  a  horse  than  these  equestrian  tribes ; 
and  nowhere  is  speed  a  greater  requisite,  as  they  frequently 
engage  in  the  chase  of  the  antelope,  one  of  the  fleetest  of  ani 
mals.  Even  after  the  Indian  who  sold  this  boasted  horse  to 
Mr.  Stuart  had  concluded  his  bargain,  he  lingered  about  the 
animal,  seeming  loth  to  part  from  him,  and  to  be  sorry  for 
what  he  had  done. 

A  day  or  two  were  employed  by  Mr.  Stuart  in  arranging 
packages  and  pack-saddles,  and  making  other  preparations  for 
his  long  and  arduous  journey.  His  party,  by  the  loss  of  John 
Day,  was  now  reduced  to  six,  a  small  number  for  such  an 
expedition.  They  were  young  men,  however,  full  of  courage, 


273  ASTORIA. 

health,  and  good  spirits,  and  stimulated,  rather  than  appalled 
by  danger. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st  of  July,  all  preparations  being 
concluded,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  little  band  mounted  their  steeds 
and  took  a  farewell  of  their  fellow-travellers,  who  gave  them 
three  hearty  cheers  as  they  set  out  on  their  langerous  journey. 
The  course  they  took  was  to  the  south-east,  toward  the  fated 
region  of  the  Snake  River.  At  an  immense  distance  rose  a 
chain  of  craggy  mountains  which  they  would  have  to  traverse ; 
they  were  the  same  among  which  the  travellers  had  experi 
enced  such  sufferings  from  cold  during  the  preceding  winter, 
and  from  their  azure  tints,  when  seen  at  a  distance,  had  re 
ceived  the  name  of  the  Blue  Mountains. 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 

IN  retracing  the  route  which  had  proved  so  disastrous  to  Mr. 
Hunt's  party  during  the  preceding  winter,  Mr.  Stuart  had 
trusted,  in  the  present  more  favorable  season,  to  find  easy  trav 
elling  and  abundant  supplies.  On  these  great  wastes  and 
wilds,  however,  each  season  has  its  peculiar  hardships.  The 
travellers  had  not  proceeded  far,  before  they  found  themselves 
among  naked  and  arid  hills,  with  a  soil  composed  of  sand  and 
clay,  baked  and  brittle,  that  to  all  appearance  had  never  been 
visited  by  the  dews  of  heaven. 

Not  a  spring,  or  pool,  or  running  stream  was  to  be  seen ;  the 
sunburnt  country  was  seamed  and  cut  up  by  dry  ravines,  the 
beds  of  winter  torrents  serving  only  to  balk  the  hopes  of  man 
and  beast,  with  the  sight  of  dusty  channels  where  water  had 
once  poured  along  in  floods. 

For  a  long  summer  day  they  continued  onward  without 
halting ;  a  burning  sky  above  their  heads,  a  parched  desert  be 
neath  their  feet,  with  just  wind  enough  to  raise  the  light  sand 
from  the  knolls,  and  envelop  them  in  stifling  clouds.  The  suf 
ferings  from  thirst  became  intense;  a  fine  young  dog,  their 
only  companion  of  the  kind,  gave  out,  and  expired.  Evening 
drew  on  without  any  prospect  of  relief,  and  they  were  almost 
reduced  to  despair,  when  they  descried  something  that  looked 
like  a  fringe  of  forest  along  the  horizon.  All  were  inspired 


AXT01UA.  279 

with  new  hope,  for  they  knew  that  on  these  arid  wastes,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  trees,  there  is  always  water. 

They  now  quickened  their  pace;  the  horses  seemed  to  un 
derstand  their  motives,  and  to  partake  of  their  anticipa 
tions  ;  for,  though  before  almost  ready  to  give  out,  they  now 
required  neither  whip  nor  spur.  With  all  their  exertions  it 
was  late  in  the  night  before  they  drew  near  to  the  trees.  As 
they  approached,  they  heard  with  transport,  the  rippling  of  a 
shallow  stream.  No  sooner  did  the  refreshing  sound  reach  the 
ears  of  the  horses,  than  the  poor  animals  snuffed  the  air, 
rushed  forward  with  ungovernable  eagerness,  and  plunging 
their  muzzles  into  the  water,  drank  until  they  seemed  in  dan 
ger  of  bursting.  Their  riders  had  but  little  more  discretion, 
and  required  repeated  draughts  to  quench  their  excessive 
thirst.  Their  weary  march  that  day  had  been  forty-five  miles, 
over  a  track  that  might  rival  the  deserts  of  Africa  for  aridity. 
Indeed,  the  sufferings  of  the  traveller  on  these  American 
deserts  is  frequently  more  severe  than  in  the  wastes  of  Africa 
or  Asia,  from  being  less  habituated  and  prepared  to  cope  with 
them. 

On  the  banks  of  this  blessed  stream  the  travellers  encamped 
for  the  night;  and  so  great  had  been  their  fatigue,  and  so 
sound  and  sweet  was  their  sleep,  that  it  was  a  late  hour  the 
next  morning  before  they  awoke.  They  now  'recognized  the 
little  river  to  be  the  Umatalla,  the  same  on  the  banks  of  which 
Mr.  Hunt  and  his  followers  had  arrived  after  their  painful 
struggle  through  the  Blue  Mountains,  and  experienced  such  a 
kind  relief  in  the  friendly  camp  of  the  Sciatogas. 

That  range  of  Blue  Mountains  now  extended  in  the  distance 
before  them ;  they  were  the  same  among  which  poor  Michael 
Carriere  had  perished.  They  form  the  south-east  boundary  of 
the  great  plains  along  the  Columbia,  dividing  the  waters  of  its 
main  stream  from  those  of  Lewis  River.  They  are,  in  fact,  a 
part  of  a  long  chain,  which  stretches  over  a  great  extent  of 
country,  and  includes  in  its  links  the  Snake  River  Mountains. 

The  day  was  somewhat  advanced  before  the  travellers  left 
the  shady  banks  of  the  Umatalla.  Their  route  gradually  took 
them  among  the  Blue  Mountains,  which  assumed  the  most 
rugged  aspect  on  a  near  approach.  They  were  shagged  with 
dense  and  gloomy  forests,  and  cut  up  by  deep  and  precipitous 
ravines,  extremely  toilsome  to  the  horses.  Sometimes  the 
travellers  had  to  follow  the  course  of  some  brawling  stream, 
with  a  broken,  rocky  bed,  which  the  shouldering  cliffs  and 


280  ASTORIA. 

promontories  on  either  side  obliged  them  frequently  to  crosa 
and  recross.  For  gome  miles  they  struggled  forward  through 
these  savage  and  darkly  wooded  defiles,  when  all  at  once  the 
whole  landscape  changed,  as  if  by  magic.  The  rude  moun 
tains  and  rugged  ravines  softened  into  beautiful  bills,  and  in 
tervening  meadows,  with  rivulets  winding  through  fresh  herb 
age,  and  sparkling  and  murmuring  over  gravelly  beds,  the 
whole  forming  a  verdant  and  pastoral  scene,  which  derived 
additional  charms  from  being  locked  up  in  the  bosom  of  such 
a  hard-hearted  region. 

Emerging  from  the  chain  of  Blue  Mountains,  they  descended 
upon  a  vast  plain,  almost  a  dead  level,  sixty  miles  in  circum 
ference,  of  excellent  soil,  with  fine  streams  meandering  through 
it  in  every  direction,  their  courses  marked  out  in  the  wide 
landscape  by  serpentine  lines  of  cotton-wood  trees,  and  wil 
lows,  which  fringed  their  banks,  and  afforded  sustenance  to 
great  numbers  of  beavers  and  ctters. 

In  traversing  this  plain,  they  passed,  close  to  the  skirts  of 
the  hills,  a  great  pool  of  water,  three  hundred  yards  in  circum 
ference,  fed  by  a  sulphur  spring,  about  ten  feet  in  diameter, 
boiling  up  in  one  corner.  The  vapor  from  this  pool  w^as  ex^ 
tremely  noisome,  and  tainted  the  air  for  a  considerable  dis 
tance.  The  place  was  much  frequented  by  elk,  which  were 
found  in  considerable  numbers  in  the  adjacent  mountains,  and 
their  horns,  shed  in  the  spring  time,  were  strewed  in  every 
direction  around  the  pond. 

On  the  20th  of  August,  they  reached  the  main  body  of  Wocd- 
ville  Creek,  the  same  stream  which  Mr.  Hunt  had  ascended 
in  the  preceding  year,  shortly  after  his  separation  from  Mr. 
Crooks. 

On  the  banks  of  this  stream  they  saw  a  herd  of  nineteen  an 
telopes  ;  a  sight  so  unusual  in  that  part  of  the  country,  that  at 
first  they  doubted  the  evidence  of  their  senses.  They  tried  by 
every  means  to  get  within  a  shot  of  them,  but  they  were  too 
shy  and  fleet,  and  after  alternately  bounding  to  a  distance, 
and  then  stopping  to  gaze  with  capricious  curiosity  at  the 
hunter,  they  at  length  scampered  out  of  sight. 

On  the  12th  of  August  the  travellers  arrived  on  the  banks  of 
Snake  River,  the  scene  of  so  many  trials  and  mishaps  to  all  of 
the  present  party  excepting  Mr.  Stuart.  They  struck  the  river 
just  above  the  place  where  it  entered  the  mountains,  through 
which  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Crooks  had  vainly  endeavored  to 
find  a  passage.  The  river  was  here  a  rapid  stream,  four  hun- 


ASTORIA.  281 

dred  yards  in  width,  with  high  sandy  banks,  and  here  and 
there  a  scanty  growth  of  willow.  Up  the  southern  side  of  the 
river  they  now  bent  their  course,  intending  to  visit  the  caches 
made  by  Mr.  Hunt  at  the  Caldron  Linn. 

On  the  second  evening  a  solitary  Snake  Indian  visited  their 
camp,  at  a  late  hour,  and  informed  them  that  there  was  a 
white  man  residing  at  one  of  the  cantonments  of  his  tribe, 
about  a  day's  journey  higher  up  the  river.  It  was  immedi 
ately  concluded  that  he  must  be  one  of  the  poor  fellows  of  Mr. 
Hunt's  party,  who  had  given  out,  exhausted  by  hunger  and 
fatigue,  in  the  wretched  journey  of  the  preceding  winter.  All 
present,  who  had  borne  a  part  in  the  sufferings  of  that  jour 
ney,  were  eager  now  to  press  forward,  and  bring  relief  to  a 
lost  comrade.  Early  the  next  morning,  therefore,  they  pushed 
forward  with  unusual  alacrity.  For  two  days,  however,  did 
they  travel  without  being  able  to  find  any  trace  of  such  a 
straggler. 

On  the  evening  of  the  second  day,  they  arrived  at  a  place 
where  a  largo  river  came  in  from  the  east,  which  was  re 
nowned  among  all  the  wandering  hordes  of  the  Snake  nation 
for  its  salmon  fishery,  that  fish  being  taken  in  incredible  quan 
tities  in  this  neighborhood.  Here,  therefore,  during  the  fish 
ing  season,  the  Snake  Indians  resort  from  far  and  near,  to  lay 
in  their  stock  of  salmon,  which,  with  esculent  roots,  forms  the 
principal  food  of  the  inhabitants  of  these  barren  regions. 

On  the  banks  of  a  small  stream  emptying  into  Snake  River 
at  this  place,  Mr.  Stuart  found  an  encampment  of  Shoshonies. 
He  made  the  usual  inquiry  of  them  concerning  the  white  man 
of  whom  he  had  received  intelligence.  No  such  person  was 
dwelling  among  them,  but  they  said  there  were  white  men 
residing  with  some  of  their  nation  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  This  was  still  more  animating  information.  Mr. 
Crooks  now  hoped  that  these  might  be  the  men  of  his  party, 
who,  disheartened  by  perils  and  hardships,  had  preferred  to 
remain  among  the  Indians.  Others  thought  they  might  be 
Mr.  Miller  and  the  hunters  who  had  left  the  main  body  at 
Henry's  Fort,  to  trap  among  the  mountain  streams.  Mr. 
Stuart  halted,  therefore,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Shoshoiiie 
lodges,  and  sent  an  Indian  across  the  river  to  seek  out  the 
white  men  in  question,  and  bring  them  to  his  camp. 

The  travellers  passed  a  restless,  miserable  night.  The  place 
swarmed  with  myriads  of  mosquitoes,  which,  with  their  stings 
and  their  music,  set  all  sleep  at  defiance.  The  morning  dawn 


282  ASTORIA. 

found  them  in  a  feverish,  irritable  mood,  and  their  spleen  was 
completely  aroused  by  the  return  of  the  Indian  witnout  any 
intelligence  of  the  white  men.  They  now  considered  them 
selves  the  dupes  of  Indian  falsehoods,  and  resolved  to  put  no 
more  confidence  in  Snakes.  They  soon,  however,  forgot  this 
resolution.  In  the  course  of  the  morning  an  Indian  came  gal 
loping  after  them;  Mr.  Stuart  waited  to  receive  him;  no 
sooner  had  he  come  up,  than,  dismounting  and  throwing  his 
arms  round  the  neck  of  Mr.  Stuart's  horse,  he  began  to  kiss 
and  caress  the  animal,  who  on  his  part  seemed  by  no  means 
surprised  or  displeased  with  his  salutation.  Mr.  Stuart,  who 
valued  his  horse  highly,  was  somewhat  annoyed  by  these  tran 
sports  ;  the  cause  of  them  was  soon  explained.  The  Snake  said 
the  horse  had  belonged  to  him,  and  been  the  best  in  his  posses 
sion,  and  that  it  had  been  stolen  by  the  Wallah- Wallahs.  Mr. 
Stuart  was  by  no  means  pleased  with  this  recognition  of  his 
steed,  nor  disposed  to  admit  any  claim  on  fhe  part  of  its 
ancient  owner.  In  fact,  it  was  a  noble  animal,  admirably 
shaped,  of  free  and  generous  spirit,  graceful  in  movement,  and 
fleet  as  an  antelope.  It  was  his  intention,  if  possible,  to  take 
the  horse  to  New  York,  and  present  him  to  Mr.  Astor. 

In  the  meantime  some  of  the  party  came  up,  and  immedi 
ately  recognized  in  the  Snake  an  old  friend  and  ally.  He  was 
in  fact  one  of  the  two  guides  who  had  conducted  Mr.  Hunt's 
party,  in  the  preceding  autumn,  across  Mad  River  Mountain  to 
Fort  Henry,  and  who  subsequently  departed  with  Mr.  Miller  and 
his  fellow  trappers,  to  conduct  them  to  a  good  trapping  ground. 
The  reader  may  recollect  that  these  two  trusty  Snakes  were 
engaged  by  Mr.  Hunt  to  return  and  take  charge  of  the  horses 
which  the  party  intended  to  leave  at  Fort  Henry,  when  they 
should  embark  in  canoes. 

The  party  now  crowded  round  the  Snake,  and  began  to  ques 
tion  him  with  eagerness.  His  replies  were  somewhat  vague, 
and  but  partially  understood.  He  told  a  long  story  about  the 
horses,  from  which  it  appeared  that  they  had  been  stolen  by 
various  wandering  bands,  and  scattered  in  different  directions. 
The  cache,  too,  had  been  plundered,  and  the  saddles  and  other 
equipments  carried  off.  His  information  concerning  Mr. 
Miller  and  his  comrades,  was  not  more  satisfactory.  They  had 
trapped  for  seme  time  about  the  upper  streams,  but  had  fallen 
into  the  hands  of  a  marauding  party  of  Crows,  who  had  robbed 
them  of  horsey,  weapons,  and  everything. 

Further  questioning:  brought  forth  further  intelligence,  but 


ASTORIA.  2S3 

all  of  a  disastrous  kind.  About  ten  days  previously,  he  had 
met  with  .three  other  white  men,  in  very  miserable  plight? 
having  one  horse  each,  and  but  one  rifle  among  them.  They 
also  had  been  plundered  and  maltreated  by  the  Crows,  those 
universal  freebooters.  The  Snake  endeavored  to  pronounce 
the  names  of  these  three  men,  and  as  far  as  his  imperfect 
sounds  could  be  understood,  they  were  supposed  to  be  three  of 
the  party  of  four  hunters,  viz.,  Carson,  St.  Michael,  Detaye, 
and  Delaunay,  who  were  detached  from  Mr.  Hunt's  party  on 
the  28th  of  September,  to  trap  beaver  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
Columbia. 

In  the  course  of  conversation,  the  Indian  informed  them  that 
the  route  by  which  Mr.  Hunt  had  crossed  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains  was  very  bad  and  circuitous,  and  that  he  knew  one 
much  shorter  and  easier.  Mr.  Stuart  urged  him  to  accompany 
them  as  guide,  promising  to  reward  him  with  a  pistol  with 
powder  and  ball,  a  knife,  an  awl,  some  blue  beads,  a  blanket, 
and  a  looking-glass.  Such  a  catalogue  of  riches  was  too  tempt 
ing  to  be  resisted ;  beside  the  poor  Snake  languished  after  the 
prairies ;  he  was  tired,  he  said,  of  salmon,  and  longed  for  buf 
falo  meat,  and  to  have  a  grand  buffalo  hunt  beyond  the  moun 
tains.  He  departed,  therefore,  with  all  speed,  to  get  his  arms 
and  equipment  for  the  journey,  promising  to  rejoin  the  party 
the  next  day.  He  kept  his  word,  and,  as  he  110  longer  said 
anything  to  Mr.  Stuart  on  the  subject  of  the  pet  horse,  they 
journeyed  very  harmoniously  together ;  though  now  and  then, 
the  Snake  would  regard  his  quondam  steed  with  a  wistful 
eye. 

They  had  not  travelled  many  miles,  when  they  came  to  a 
great  bend  in  the  river.  Here  the  Snake  informed  them  that, 
by  cutting  across  the  hills  they  would  save  many  miles  dis 
tance.  The  route  across,  however,  would  be  a  good  day's  jour 
ney.  He  advised  them,  therefore,  to  encamp  here  for  the 
night,  and  set  off  early  in  the  morning.  They  took  his  advice, 
though  they  had  come  but  nine  miles  that  day. 

On  the  following  morning  they  rose,  bright  and  early,  to  as 
cend  the  hills.  On  mustering  their  little  party,  the  guide  was 
missing.  They  supposed  him  to  be  somewhere  in  the  neigh 
borhood,  and  proceeded  to  collect  the  horses.  The  vaunted 
steed  of  Mr.  Stuart  was  not  to  be  found.  A  suspicion  flashed 
upon  his  mind.  Search  for  the  horse  of  the  Snake !— he  like 
wise  was  gone— the  tracks  of  two  horses,  one  after  the  other, 
were  found,  making  off  from  the  camp.  They  appeared  as  if 


284  ASTORIA. 

one  horse  had  been  mounted,  and  the  other  led.  They  were 
traced  for  a  few  miles  above  the  camp,  until  they  both  crossed 
the  river.  It  was  plain  the  Snake  had  taken  an  Indian  mode  of 
recovering  his  horse,  having  quietly  decamped  with  him  in 
the  night. 

New  vows  were  made  never  more  to  trust  in  Snakes  or  any 
other  Indians.  It  was  determined,  also,  to  maintain,  hereafter, 
the  strictest  vigilance  over  their  horses,  dividing  the  night  into 
three  watches,  and  one  person  mounting  guard  at  a  time. 
They  resolved,  also,  to  keep  along  the  river,  instead  of  taking 
the  short  cut  recommended  by  the  fugitive  Snake,  whom  they 
now  set  down  for  a  thorough  deceiver.  The  heat  of  the 
weather  was  oppressive,  and  their  horses  were,  at  times,  ren 
dered  almost  frantic  by  the  stings  of  the  prairie  flies.  The 
nights  were  suffocating,  and  it  was  almost  impossible  to  sleep, 
from  the  swarms  of  mosquitoes. 

On  the  20th  of  August  they  resumed  their  march,  keeping 
along  the  prairie  parallel  to  Snake  River.  The  day  was  sultry, 
and  some  of  the  party,  being  parched  with  thirst,  left  the  line 
of  march,  and  scrambled  down  the  bank  of  the  river  to  drink. 
The  bank  was  overhung  with  willows,  beneath  which,  to  their 
surprise,  they  beheld  a  man  fishing.  No  sooner  did  he  see 
them,  than  he  uttered  an  exclamation  of  joy.  It  proved  to  be 
John  Hoback,  one  of  their  lost  comrades.  They  had  scarcely 
exchanged  greetings,  when  three  other  men  came  out  from 
among  the  willows.  They  were  Joseph  Miller,  Jacob  Reziier, 
and  Robinson,  the  scalped  Kentuckian,  the  veteran  of  the 
Bloody  Ground. 

The  reader  will  perhaps  recollect  the  abrupt  and  wilful  man 
ner  in  which  Mr.  Miller  threw  up  his  interest  as  a  partner  of 
the  company,  and  departed  from  Fort  Henry,  in  company  with 
these  three  trappers,  and  a  fourth,  named  Cass.  He  may  like 
wise  recognize  in  Robinson,  Rezner,  and  Hoback,  the  trio  of 
Kentucky  hunters  who  had  originally  been  in  the  service  of 
Mr.  Henry,  and  whom  Mr.  Hunt  found  floating  down  the  Mis 
souri,  on  their  way  homeward ;  and  prevailed  upon,  once  more, 
to  cross  the  mountains.  The  haggard  looks  and  naked  condi 
tion  of  these  men  proved  how  much  they  had  suffered.  After 
leaving  Mr.  Hunt's  party,  they  had  made  their  way  about  two 
hundred  miles  to  the  southward,  where  they  trapped  beaver  on 
a  river,  which,  according  to  their  account,  discharged  itself 
into  the  ocean  to  the  south  of  the  Columbia,  but  which  we  ap 
prehend  to  be  Bear  River,  a  stream  emptying  itself  into  Lake 


ASTORIA.  285 

Bonneville,  an  immense  body  of  salt  water,  west  of  the  Eocky 
Mountains. 

Having  collected  a  considerable  quantity  of  beaver  skins, 
they  made  them  into  packs,  loaded  their  horses,  and  steered 
two  hundred  miles  due  east.  Here  they  came  upon  an  encamp 
ment  of  sixty  lodges  of  Arapahays,  an  outlawed  band  of  the 
Arapjiiioes,  and  notorious  robbers.  These  fell  upon  the  poor 
trappers;  robbed  them  of  their  peltries,  most  of  their  clothing, 
and  several  of  their  horses.  They  were  glad  to  escape  with  their 
lives,  and  without  being  entirely  stripped,  and  after  proceed 
ing  about  fifty  miles  further,  made  their  halt  for  the  winter. 

Early  in  the  spring,  they  resumed  their  wayfaring,  but  were 
unluckily  overtaken  by  the  same  ruffian  horde,  who  levied  still 
further  contributions,  and  carried  off  the  remainder  of  their 
horses,  excepting  two.  With  these  they  continued  on,  suffer 
ing  the  greatest  hardships.  They  still  retained  rifles  and  am 
munition,  but  were  in  a  desert  country,  where  neither  bird 
nor  beast  was  to  be  found.  Their  only  chance  was  to  keep 
along  the  rivers  and  subsist  by  fishing ;  but,  at  times,  no  fish 
were  to  be  taken,  and  then  their  sufferings  were  horrible.  One 
of  their  horses  was  stolen  among  the  mountains  by  the  Snake 
Indians;  the  other,  they  said,  was  carried  off  by  Cass,  who, 
according  to  their  account,  "  villainously  left  them  in  their  ex 
tremities."  Certain  dark  doubts  and  surmises  were  afterward 
circulated  concerning  the  fate  of  that  poor  follow,  which,  if 
true,  showed  to  what  a  desperate  state  of  famine  his  comrades 
had  been  reduced. ' 

Being  now  completely  unhorsed,  Mr.  Miller  and  his  three 
companions  wandered  on  foot  for  several  hundred  miles,  en 
during  hunger,  thirst,  and  fatigue,  while  traversing  the  barren 
wastes  which  abound  beyond  the  Eocky  Mountains.  At  the 
time  they  were  discovered  by  Mr.  Stuart's  party,  they  were 
almost  famished,  and  were  fishing  for  a  precarious  meal.  Had 
Mr.  Stuart  made  the  short  cut  across  the  hills,  avoiding  this 
bend  of  the  river,  or  had  not  some  of  his  party  accidentally 
gone  down  to  the  margin  of  the  stream  to  drink,  these  poor 
wanderers  might  have  remained  undiscovered,  and  have  per 
ished  in  the  wilderness.  Nothing  could  exceed  their  joy  on 
thus  meeting  with  their  old  comrades,  or  the  heartiness  with 
which  they  were  welcomed.  All  hands  immediately  encamped ; 
and  the  slender  stores  of  the  party  were  ransacked  to  furnish 
out  a  suitable  regale. 

The  next  morning  they  all  set  out  together;  Mr.  Miller  arid 


ASTORIA,  286 

his  comrades  being  resolved  to  give  up  the  life  of  a  trapper, 
and  accompany  Mr.  Stuart  back  to  St.  Louis. 

For  several  days  they  kept  along  the  course  of  Snake  River, 
occasionally  making  short  cuts  across  hills  and  promon 
tories,  where  there  were  bends  in  the  stream.  In  their  way 
they  passed  several  camps  of  Shoshonies,  from  some  of  whom 
they  procured  salmon,  but  in  general  they  were  too  wretchedly 
poor  to  furnish  anything.  It  was  the  wish  of  Mr.  Stuart  to 
purchase  horses  for  the  recent  recruits  of  his  party ;  but  the 
Indians  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  part  with  any,  alleging 
that  they  had  not  enough  for  their  own  use. 

On  the  25th  of  August,  they  reached  a  great  fishing  place,  to 
which  they  gave  the  name  of  the  Salmon  Falls.  Here  there  is 
a  perpendicular  fall  of  twenty  feet  on  the  north  side  of  the 
liver,  while  on  the  south  side  there  is  a  succession  of  rapids. 
The  salmon  are  taken  here  in  incredible  quantities,  as  they  at 
tempt  to  shoot  the  falls.  It  was  now  a  favorable  season,  and 
there  were  about  one  hundred  lodges  of  Shoshonies  busily 
engaged  killing  and  drying  fish.  The  salmon  begin  to  leap, 
shortly  after  sunrise.  At  this  time  the  Indians  swim  to  the 
centre  of  the  falls,  where  some  station  themselves  on  rocks, 
and  others  stand  to  their  waists  in  the  water,  all  armed  with 
spears,  with  which  they  assail  the  salmon  as  they  attempt  to 
leap,  or  fall  back  exhausted.  It  is  an  incessant  slaughter,  so 
great  is  the  throng  of  the  fish. 

The  construction  of  the  spears  thus  used  is  peculiar.  The 
head  is  a  straight  piece  of  elk  horn,  about  seven  inches  long ; 
on  the  point  of  which  an  artificial  barb  is  made  fast,  with  twine 
well  gummed.  The  head  is  stuck  on  the  end  of  the  shaft,  a 
very  long  pole  of  willow,  to  which  it  is  likewise  connected  by 
a  strong  cord,  a  few  inches  in  length.  When  the  spearsman 
makes  a  sure  blow,  he  often  strikes  the  head  of  the  spear 
through  the  body  of  the  fish.  It  comes  off  easily,  and  leaves 
tlio  salmon  struggling  with  the  string  through  its  body,  while 
the  pole  is  still  held  by  the  spearsman.  Were  it  not  for  the 
precaution  of  the  string,  the  willow  shaft  would  be  snapped  by 
the  struggles  and  the  weight  of  the  fish.  Mr.  Miller,  in  the 
course  of  his  wanderings,  had  been  at  these  falls,  and  had  seen 
several  thousand  salmon  taken  in  the  course  of  one  afternoon. 
He  declared  that  he  had  seen  a  salmon  leap  a  distance  of  about 
thirty  feet,  from  the  commencement  of  the  foam  at  the  foot  of 
the  fall,  completely  to  the  top. 

Having  purchased  a  good  supply  of  salmon,  from  the  fisher- 


ASTORIA.  287 

men,  the  party  resumed  their  journey,  and  on  the  twenty- 
ninth,  arrived  at  the  Caldron  Linn ;  the  eventful  scene  of  the 
preceding  autumn.  Here,  the  first  thing  that  met  their  eyes, 
was  a  memento  of  the  perplexities  of  that  period ;  the  wreck  of 
a  canoe  lodged  between  two  ledges  of  rocks.  They  endeavored 
to  get  down  to  it,  but  the  river  banks  were  too  high  and  pre 
cipitous. 

They  now  proceeded  to  that  part  of  the  neighborhood  where 
Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  had  made  the  caches,  intending  to 
take  from  them  such  articles  as  belonged  to  Mr.  Crooks,  M'Lel- 
lan,  and  the  Canadians.  On  reaching  the  spot,  they  found,  to 
their  astonishment,  six  of  the  caches  open  and  rifled  of  their 
contents,  excepting  a  few  books  which  lay  scattered  about  the 
vicinity.  They  had  the  appearance  of  having  been  plundered 
in  the  course  of  the  summer.  There  were  tracks  of  wolves  in 
every  direction,  to  and  from  the  holes,  from  which  Mr.  Stuart 
concluded  that  these  animals  had  first  been  attracted  to  the 
place  by  the  smell  of  the  skins  contained  in  the  caches,  which 
they  had  probably  torn  up,  and  that  their  tracks  had  betrayed 
the  secret  to  the  Indians. 

The  three  remaining  caches  had  not  been  molested;  they 
contained  a  few  dry  goods,  some  ammunition,  and  a  number 
of  beaver  traps.  From  these  Mr.  Stu-art  took  whatever  was 
requisite  for  his  party ;  he  then  deposited  within  them  all  his 
superfluous  baggage,  and  all  the  books  and  papers  scattered 
around ;  the  holes  were  then  caref ully  closed  up,  and  all  traces 
of  them  effaced.  And  here  we  have  to  record  another  in 
stance  of  the  indomitable  spirit  of  the  western  trappers.  No 
sooner  did  the  trio  of  Kentucky  hunters,  Robinson,  Rezner, 
and  Hoback,  find  that  they  could  once  more  be  fitted  out  for  a 
campaign  of  beaver-trapping,  than  they  forgot  all  that  they 
had  suffered,  and  determined  upon  another  trial  of  their  for 
tunes  ;  preferring  to  take  their  chance  in  the  wilderness,  rather 
than  return  home  ragged  and  penniless.  As  to  Mr.  Miller,  he 
declared  his  curiosity  and  his  desire  of  travelling  through  the 
Indian  countries  fully  satisfied ;  he  adhered  to  his  determina 
tion,  therefore,  to  keep  on  with  the  party  to  St.  Louis,  and  to 
return  to  the  bosom  of  civilized  society. 

The  three  hunters,  therefore,  Robinson,  Rezner,  and  Hoback, 
were  furnished  as  far  as  the  caches  and  the  means  of  Mr. 
Stuart's  party  afforded,  with  the  requisite  munitions  and 
equipments  for  a  * '  two  years'  hunt ;"  but  as  their  fitting  out 
\v?,s  yet  incomplete,  they  resolved  to  wait  in  this  neighborhood, 


until  Mr.  Reed  should  arrive;  whose  arrival  might  soon  bo  ex 
pected,  as  he  was  to  set  out  for  the  caches  about  twenty  day  a 
after  Mr.  Stuart  parted  with  him  at  the  Wallah-Wallah  River. 

Mr.  Stuart  gave  in  charge  to  Robinson  a  letter  to  Mr.  Reed, 
reporting  his  safe  journey  thus  far,  and  the  state  in  which  he 
had  found  the  caches.  A  duplicate  of  this  letter  he  elevated  on 
a  pole,  and  set  it  up  near  the  place  of  deposit. 

All  things  being  thus  arranged,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  little 
band,  now  seven  in  number,  took  leave  of  the  three  hardy 
trappers,  wishing  them  all  possible  success  in  their  lonely  and 
perilous  sojourn  in  the  wilderness ;  and  we,  in  like  manner, 
shall  leave  them  to  their  fortunes,  promising  to  take  them  up 
again  at  some  future  page,  and  to  close  the  story  of  their  per 
severing  and  ill-fated  enterprise. 


CHAPTER    XLV, 

ON  the  1st  of  September,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  companions  re 
sumed  their  journey,  bending  their  course  eastward,  along  the 
course  of  Snake  River.  As  they  advanced  the  country 
opened.  The  hills  which  had  hemmed  in  the  river  receded  on 
either  hand,  and  great  sandy  and  dusty  plains  extended  before 
them.  Occasionally  there  were  intervals  of  pasturage,  and  the 
banks  of  the  river  were  fringed  with  willows  and  cotton-wood, 
so  that  its  course  might  be  traced  from  the  hill-tops,  winding 
under  an  umbrageous  covert,  through  a  wide  sunburnt  land 
scape.  The  soil,  however,  was  generally  poor;  there  was  in 
some  places  a  miserable  growth  of  wormwood,  and  a  plant 
called  salt-weed,  resembling  pennyroyal ;  but  the  summer  heat 
had  parched  the  plains,  and  left  but  little  pasturage.  The 
game  too  had  disappeared.  The  hunter  looked  in  vain  over 
the  lifeless  landscape ;  now  and  then  a  few  antelope  might  be 
seen,  but  not  within  reach  of  the  rifle.  We  forbear  to  follow 
the  travellers  in  a  week's  wandering  over  these  barren  wastes, 
where  they  suffered  much  from  hunger;  having  to  depend 
upon  a  few  fish  from  the  streams,  and  now  and  then  a  little 
dried  salmon,  or  a  dog,  procured  from  some  forlorn  lodge  of 
the  Shoshonies. 

Tired  of  these  cheerless  wastes,  they  left  the  banks  of  Snake 


ASTORIA.  289 

Biver  on  the  7th  of  September,  under  guidance  of  Mr.  Miller, 
who  having  acquired  some  knowledge  of  the  country  during 
his  trapping  campaign,  undertook  to  conduct  them  across  the 
mountains  by  a  better  route  than  that  by  Fort  Henry,  and  one 
more  out  of  the  range  of  the  Blackfeet.  He  proved,  however, 
but  an  indifferent  guide,  and  they  soon  became  bewildered 
among  rugged  hills  and  unknown  streams,  and  burnt  and  bar 
ren  prairies. 

At  length  they  came  to  a  river  on  which  Mr.  Miller  had 
trapped,  and  to  which  they  gave  his  name ;  though,  as  before 
observed,  we  presume  it  to  be  the  same  called  Bear  River, 
which  empties  itself  into  Lake  Bonneville.  Up  this  river  and 
its  branches  they  kept  for  two  or  three  days,  supporting  them 
selves  precariously  upon  fish.  They  soon  found  that  they 
were  in  a  dangerous  neighborhood.  On  the  12th  of  September, 
having  encamped  early,  they  sallied  forth  with  their  rods  to 
angle  for  their  supper.  On  returning,  they  beheld  a  number 
of  Indians  prowling  about  their  camp,  whom  to  their  infinite 
disquiet,  they  soon  perceived  to  be  Upsarokas,  or  Crows. 
Their  chief  came  forward  with  a  confident  air.  He  was  a  dark 
herculean  fellow,  full  six  feet  four  inches  in  height,  with  a 
mingled  air  of  the  ruffian  and  the  rogue.  He  conducted  him 
self  peaceably,  however,  and  dispatched  some  of  his  people  to 
their  camp,  which  was  somewhere  in  the  neighborhood,  from 
whence  they  returned  with  a  most  acceptable  supply  of  buffalo 
meat.  He  now  signified  to  Mr.  Stuart  that  he  was  going  to 
trade  with  the  Snakes  who  reside  on  the  west  base  of  the 
mountains  below  Henry's  Fort.  Here  they  cultivate  a  delicate 
kind  of  tobacco,  much  esteemed  and  sought  after  by  the  moun 
tain  tribes.  There  was  something  sinister,  however,  in  the 
look  of  this  Indian,  that  inspired  distrust.  By  degrees,  the 
number  of  his  people  increased,  until,  by  midnight,  there  were 
twenty-one  of  them  about  the  camp,  who  began  to  be  impudent 
and  troublesome.  The  greatest  uneasiness  was  now  felt  for  the 
safety  of  the  horses  and  effects,  and  every  one  kept  vigilant 
watch  throughout  the  night. 

The  morning  dawned,  however,  without  any  unpleasant 
occurrence,  and  Mr.  Stuart,  having  purchased  all  the  buffalo 
meat  that  the  Crows  had  to  spare,  prepared  to  depart.  His 
Indian  acquaintance,  however,  were  disposed  for  further  deal 
ings  ;  and  above  all,  anxious  for  a  supply  of  gunpowder,  for 
which  they  offered  horses  in  exchange.  Mr.  Stuart  declined  to 
furnish  them  with  the  dangerous  commodity.  They  became 


290  ASTORIA. 

more  importunate  in  their  solicitations,  until  they  met  with  a 
flat  refusal. 

The  gigantic  chief  now  stepped  forward,  assumed  a  swelling 
air,  and  slapping  himself  upon  the  breast  gave  Mr.  Crooks  to 
understand  that  he  was  a  chief  of  great  power  and  importance. 
He  signified  further  that  it  was  customary  for  great  chiefs 
when  they  met,  to  make  each  other  presents.  He  requested, 
therefore,  that  Mr.  Stuart  would  alight,  and  give  him  the  horse 
upon  which  he  was  mounted.  This  was  a  noble  animal,  of  one 
of  the  wild  races  of  the  prairies ;  on  which  Mr.  Stuart  set  great 
value ;  he  of  course  shook  his  head  at  the  request  of  the  Crow 
dignitary.  Upon  this  the  latter  strode  up  to  him,  and  taking 
hold  of  him,  moved  him  backward  and  forward  in  his  saddle, 
as  if  to  make' him  feel  that  he  was  a  mere  child  within  his  grasp. 
Mr.  Stuart  preserved  his  calmness  and  still  shook  his  head. 
The  chief  then  seized  the  bridle  and  gave  it  a  jerk  that  startled 
the  horse,  and  nearly  brought  the  rider  to  the  ground.  Mr. 
Stuart  instantly  drew  forth  a  pistol  and  presented  it  at  the 
head  of  the  bully-ruffian.  In  a  twinkling,  his  swaggering  was 
at  an  end,  and  he  dodged  behind  his  horse  to  escape  the  ex 
pected  shot.  As  his  subject  Crows  gazed  on  the  affray  from  a 
little  distance,  Mr.  Stuart  ordered  his  men  to  level  their  rifles 
at  them,  but  not  to  fire.  The  whole  crew  scampered  among 
the  bushes,  and  throwing  themselves  upon  the  ground,  van 
ished  from  sight. 

The  chieftain  thus  left  alone  was  confounded  for  an  instant; 
but  recovering  himself,  with  true  Indian  shrewdness,  burst 
into  a  loud  laugh,  and  affected  to  turn  off  the  whole  matter  as 
a  piece  of  pleasantry.  Mr.  Stuart  by  no  means  relished  such 
equivocal  joking,  but  it  was  not  his  policy  to  get  into  a  quar 
rel  ;  so  he  joined  with  the  best  grace  he  could  assume,  in  the 
merriment  of  the  jocular  giant ;  and,  to  console  the  latter  for 
the  refusal  of  the  horse,  made  him  a  present  of  twenty  charges 
of  powder.  They  parted,  according  to  all  outward  professions, 
the  best  friends  in  the  world ;  it  was  evident,  however,  that 
nothing  but  the  smallness  of  his  own  force,  and  the  martial 
array  and  alertness  of  the  wliite  men,  had  prevented  the 
Crow  chief  from  proceeding  to  open  outrage.  As  it  was,  his 
worthy  followers,  in  the  course  of  their  brief  interview,  had 
contrived  to  purloin  a  bag  containing  almost  all  the  culinary 
utensils  of  the  party. 

The  travellers  kept  on  their  way  due  east,  over  a  chain  of 
hills.  The  recent  rencontre  showed  them  that  they  were  now 


ASTORIA. 

in  a  land  of  danger,  subject  to  the  wide  roamings  of  a  preda 
cious  tribe ;  nor  in  fact,  had  they  gone  many  miles  before  they 
beheld  such  sights  calculated  to  inspire  anxiety  and  alarm. 
From  the  summits  of  some  of  the  loftiest  mountains,  in  differ 
ent  directions,  columns  of  smoke  began  to  rise.  These  they 
concluded  to  be  signals  made  by  the  runners  of  the  Crow 
chieftain  to  summon  the  stragglers  of  his  band,  so  as  to  pur 
sue  them  with  greater  force.  Signals  of  this  kind,  made  by 
outrunners  from  one  central  point,  will  rouse  a  wide  circuit  of 
the  mountains  in  a  wonderfully  short  space  of  time ;  and  bring 
the  straggling  hunters  and  warriors  to  the  standard  of  their 
chieftain. 

To  keep  as  much  as  possible  out  of  the  way  of  these  free 
booters,  Mr.  Stuart  altered  his  course  to  the  north,  and,  quit 
ting  the  main  stream  of  Miller's  River  kept  up  a  large  branch 
that  came  in  from  the  mountains.  Here  they  encamped  after 
a  fatiguing  march  of  twenty-five  miles.  As  the  night  drew  on, 
the  horses  were  hobbled  or  tethered,  and  tethered  close  to  the 
camp;  a  vigilant  watch  was  maintained  until  morning  and 
every  one  slept  with  his  rifle  on  his  arm. 

At  sunrise,  they  were  again  on  the  march,  still  keeping  to 
the  north.  They  soon  began  to  ascend  the  mountains,  and 
occasionally  had  wide  prospects  over  the  surrounding  country. 
Not  a  sign  of  a  Crow  was  to  be  seen ;  but  this  did  not  assure 
them  of  their  security,  well  knowing  the  perseverance  of  these 
savages  in  dogging  any  party  they  intend  to  rob,  and  the 
stealthy  way  in  which  they  can  conceal  their  movements, 
keeping  along  ravines  and  denies.  After  a  mountain  scramble 
of  twenty-one  miles  they  encamped  on  the  margin  of  a  stream 
running  to  the  north. 

In  the  evening  there  was  an  alarm  of  Indians  and  every  one 
was  instantly  on  the  alert.  They  proved  to  be  three  miserable 
Snakes,  who  were  no  sooner  informed  that  a  band  of  Crows 
was  prowling  in  the  neighborhood,  than  they  made  off  with 
great  signs  of  consternation. 

A  couple  more  of  weary  days  and  watchful  nights  brought 
them  to  a  strong  and  rapid  stream,  running  due  north,  which 
they  concluded  to  be  one  of  the  upper  branches  of  Snake  Eiver. 
It  was  probably  the  same  since  called  Salt  River.  They  deter 
mined  to  bend  their  course  down  this  river,  as  it  would  take 
them  still  further  out  of  the  dangerous  neighborhood  of  the 
Crows.  They  then  would  strike  upon  Mr.  Hunt's  track  of  the 
preceding  autumn,  and  retrace  it  across  the  mountains.  The 


292  ASTORIA. 

attempt  to  find  a  better  route  under  guidance  of  Mr.  Miller  had 
cost  them  a  large  bend  to  the  south ;  in  resuming  Mr.  Hunt's 
track,  they  would  at  least  be  sure  of  their  road.  They  accord 
ingly  turned  down  along  the  course  of  this  stream,  and  at  the 
end  of  three  days'  journey,  came  to  where  it  was  joined  by  a 
larger  river,  and  assumed  a  more  impetuous  character,  raging 
and  roaring  among  rocks  and  precipices.  It  proved,  in  fact, 
to  be  Mad  River,  already  noted  in  the  expedition  of  Mr.  Hunt. 
On  the  banks  of  this  river  they  encamped  on  the  18th  of  Sep 
tember,  at  an  early  hour. 

Six  days  had  now  elapsed  since  their  interview  with  the 
Crows ;  during  that  time  they  had  come  nearly  a  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  to  the  north  and  west,  without  seeing  any  signs  of 
those  marauders.  They  considered  themselves,  therefore,  be 
yond  the  reach  of  molestation,  and  began  to  relax  in  their  vigi 
lance,  lingering  occasionally  for  part  of  a  day,  where  there  was 
good  pasturage.  The  poor  horses  needed  repose.  They  had 
been  urged  on,  by  forced  marches,  over  rugged  heights,  among 
rocks  and  fallen  timber,  or  over  low  swampy  valleys,  inun 
dated  by  the  labors  of  the  beaver.  These  industrious  animals 
abounded  in  all  the  mountain  streams,  and  water  courses, 
wherever  there  were  willows  for  their  subsistence.  Many  of 
them  they  had  so  completely  dammed  up  as  to  inundate  the  low 
grounds,  making  shallow  pools  or  lakes,  and  extensive  quag 
mires;  by  which  the  route  of  the  travellers  was  often  impeded. 

On  the  19th  of  September,  they  rose  at  early  dawn;  some 
began  to  prepare  breakfast,  and  others  to  arrange  the  packs 
preparatory  to  a  march.  The  horses  had  been  hobbled,  but 
left  at  large  to  graze  upon  the  adjacent  pasture.  Mr.  Stuart 
was  on  the  bank  of  a  river,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  camp, 
when  he  heard  the  alarm  cry — "Indians!  Indians !— to  arms ! 
to  arms !" 

A  mounted  Crow  galloped  past  the  camp,  bearing  a  red  flag. 
He  reined  his  steed  on  the  summit  of  a  neighboring  knoll,  and 
waved  his  flaring  banner.  A  diabolical  yell  now  broke  forth 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  camp,  beyond  where  the  horses  were 
grazing,  and  a  small  troop  of  savages  came  galloping  up, 
whooping  and  making  a  terrific  clamor.  The  horses  took 
fright,  and  dashed  across  the  camp  in  the  direction  of  the 
standard-bearer,  attracted  by  his  waving  flag.  He  instantly 
put  spurs  to  his  steed,  and  scoured  off,  followed  by  the  panic- 
stricken  herd,  their  flight  being  increased  by  the  yells  of  the 
savaeres  in  their  rear. 


ASTORIA.  293 

At  the  first  alarm  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  comrades  had  seized 
their  rifles,  and  attempted  to  cut  off  the  Indians,  who  were 
pursuing  the  horses.  Their  attention  was  instantly  distracted 
by  whoops  and  yells  in  an  opposite  direction.  They  now  ap' 
prehended  that  a  reserve  party  was  about  to  carry  off  their 
baggage.  They  ran  to  secure  it.  The  reserve  party,  however, 
galloped  by,  whooping  and  yelling  in  triumph  and  derision. 
The  last  of  them  proved  to  be  their  commander,  the  identical 
giant  joker  already  mentioned.  He  was  not  cast  in  the  stern 
poetical  mould  of  fashionable  Indian  heroism,  but  on  the  con 
trary,  was  grievously  given  to  vulgar  jocularity.  As  he  passed 
Mr.  Stuart  and  his  companions,  he  checked  his  horse,  raised 
himself  in  the  saddle,  and  clapping  his  hand  on  the  most  in 
sulting  part  of  his  body,  uttered  some  jeering  words,  which, 
fortunately  for  their  delicacy,  they  could  not  understand. 
The  rifle  of  Ben  Jones  was  levelled  in  an  instant,  and  he  was 
on  the  point  of  whizzing  a  bullet  into  the  target  so  tauntingly 
displayed.  "Not  for  your  life!  not  for  your  life !"  exclaimed 
Mr.  Stuart,  "you  will  bring  destruction  on  us  all !" 

It  was  hard  to  restrain  honest  Ben,  when  the  mark  was  so 
fair  and  the  insult  so  foul.  "Oh,  Mr.  Stuart,"  exclaimed  he, 
' '  only  let  me  have  one  crack  at  the  infernal  rascal,  and  you 
may  keep  all  the  pay  that  is  due  to  me." 

"By  heaven,  if  you  fire,"  cried  Mr.  Stuart,  "I  blow  your 
brains  out." 

By  this  time  the  Indian  was  far  out  of  reach,  and  had  re 
joined  his  men,  and  the  whole  dare-devil  band,  with  the  cap 
tured  horses,  scuttled  off  along  the  defiles,  their  red  flag  flaunt 
ing  overhead,  and  the  rocks  echoing  to  their  whoops  and  yells, 
and  demoniac  laughter. 

The  unhorsed  travellers  gazed  after  them  in  silent  mortifica 
tion  and  despair;  yet  Mr.  Stuart  could  not  but  admire  the 
style  and  spirit  with  which  the  whole  exploit  had  been  man 
aged,  and  pronounced  it  one  of  the  most  daring  and  intrepid 
actions  he  had  ever  heard  of  among  Indians.  The  whole  num 
ber  of  the  Crows  did  not  exceed  twenty.  In  this  way  a  small 
gang  of  lurkers  will  hurry  off  the  cavalry  of  a  large  war  party, 
for  when  once  a  drove  of  horse  are  seized  with  a  panic,  they 
become  frantic,  and  nothing  short  of  broken  necks  can  stop 
them. 

No  one  was  more  annoyed  by  this  unfortunate  occurrence 
than  Ben  Jones.  He  declared  he  would  actually  have  given  his 
whole  arrears  of  pay,  amounting  to  upwards  of  a  year's  wages, 


294  ASTORIA. 

rather  than  be  balked  of  such  a  capital  shot.  Mr.  Stuart,  how 
ever,  represented  what  might  'have  been  the  consequence  of 
so  rash  an  act.  Life  for  life  is  the  Indian  maxim.  The  whole 
tribe  would  have  made  common  cause  in  avenging  the  death 
of  a  warrior.  The  party  were  but  seven  dismounted  men,  with 
a  wide  mountain  region  to  traverse,  infested  by  these  people, 
and  which  might  all  be  roused  by  signal  fires.  In  fact,  the 
conduct  of  the  band  of  marauders  in  question,  showed  the 
perseverance  of  savages  when  once  they  have  fixed  their  minds 
upon  a  project.  These  fellows  had  evidently  been  silently  and 
secretly  dogging  the  party  for  a  week  past,  and  a  distance  of  a 
hundred  and  fifty  miles,  keeping  out  of  sight  by  day,  lurking 
about  the  encampment  at  night,  watching  all  their  movements, 
and  waiting  for  a  favorable  moment  when  they  should  be  off 
their  guard.  The  menace  of  Mr.  Stuart  in  their  first  inter 
view,  to  shoot  the  giant  chief  with  his  pistol,  and  the  fright 
caused  among  the  warriors  by  presenting  the  rifles,  had  prob 
ably  added  the  stimulus  of  pique  to  their  usual  horse-stealing 
propensities,  and  in  this  mood  of  mind  they  would  doubtless 
have  followed  the  party  throughout  the  whole  course  over 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  rather  than  be  disappointed  in  their 
scheme. 


CHAPTER  XLVL 

FEW  reverses  in  this  changeful  world  are  more  complete  and 
disheartening  than  that  of  a  traveller,  suddenly  unhorsed,  in 
the  midst  of  the  wilderness.  Our  unfortunate  travellers  con 
templated  their  situation,  for  a  time,  in  perfect  dismay.  A 
long  journey  over  rugged  mountains  and  immeasurable  plains 
lay  before  them,  which  they  must  painfully  perform  on  foot, 
and  everything  necessary  for  subsistence  or  defence  must  be 
carried  on  their  shoulders.  Their  dismay,  however,  was  but 
transient,  and  they  immediately  set  to  work,  with  that  prompt 
expediency  produced  by  the  exigencies  of  the  wilderness,  to  fit 
themselves  for  the  change  in  their  condition. 

Their  first  attention  was  to  select  from  their  baggage  such 
articles  as  were  indispensable  to  their  journey ;  to  make  them 
up  into  convenient  packs,  and  to  deposit  the  residue  in  caches. 
The  whole  day  was  consumed  in  these  occupations ;  at  night 
they  made  a  scanty  meal  of  their  remaining  provisions,  ancl 


295  ASTORIA. 

lay  down  to  sleep  with  heavy  hearts.  In  the  morning,  they 
were  up  and  about  at  an  early  hour,  and  began  to  prepare  their 
knapsacks  for  a  march,  while  Ben  Jones  repaired  to  an  old 
beaver  trap  which  he  had  set  in  the  river  bank  at  some  little 
distance  from  the  camp.  He  was  rejoiced  to  find  a  middle- 
sized  beaver  there,  sufficient  for  a  morning's  meal  to  his 
hungry  comrades.  On  his  way  back  wi£h  his  prize,  he  ob 
served  two  heads  peering  over  the  edge  of  an  impending  cliff, 
several  hundred  feet  high,  which  he  supposed  to  a  couple  of 
wolves.  As  he  continued  on,  he  now  and  then  cast  his  eye  up; 
the  heads  were  still  there,  looking  down  with  fixed  and  watch 
ful  gaze.  A  suspicion  now  flashed  across  his  mind  that  they 
might  be  Indian  scouts ;  and  had  they  not  been  far  above  the 
reach  of  his  rifle,  he  would  undoubtedly  have  regaled  them 
with  a  shot. 

On  arriving  at  the  camp,  he  directed  the  attention  of  his 
comrades  to  these  aerial  observers.  The  same  idea  was  at  first 
entertained,  that  they  were  wolves;  but  their  immovable 
watchfulness  soon  satisfied  every  one  that  they  were  Indians. 
It  was  concluded  that  they  were  watching  the  movements  of 
the  party,  to  discover  their  place  of  concealment  of  such  ar 
ticles  as  they  would  be  compelled  to  leave  behind.  There  was 
no  likelihood  that  the  caches  would  escape  the  search  of  such 
keen  eyes  and  experienced  rummagers,  and  the  idea  was  in 
tolerable  that  any  more  booty  should  fall  into  their  hands.  To 
disappoint  them,  therefore,  the  travellers  stripped  the  caches  of 
the  articles  deposited  there,  and  collecting  together  everything 
that  they  could  not  carry  away  with  them,  made  a  bonfire  of 
all  that  would  burn,  and  threw  the  rest  into  the  river.  There 
was  a  forlorn  satisfaction  in  thus  balking  the  Crows,  by  the 
destruction  of  their  own  property ;  and,  having  thus  gratified 
their  pique,  they  shouldered  their  packs,  about  ten  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  and  set  out  on  their  pedestrian  wayfaring. 

The  route  they  took  was  down  along  the  banks  of  Mad 
River.  This  stream  makes  its  way  through  the  defiles  of  the 
mountains,  into  the  plain  below  Fort  Henry,  where  it  termi 
nates  in  Snake  River.  Mr.  Stuart  was  in  hopes  of  meeting 
with  Snake  encampments  in  the  plain,  where  he  might  pro 
cure  a  couple  of  horses  to  transport  the  baggage.  In  such 
case,  he  intended  to  resume  his  eastern  course  across  the 
mountains,  and  endeavor  to  reach  the  Cheyenne  River  before 
winter.  Should  he  fail,  however,  of  obtaining  horses,  he  would 
probably  be  compelled  to  winter  on  the  Pacific  side  of  the 


296  ASTORIA. 

mountains,  somewhere  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Spanish  or 
Colorado  Eiver. 

With  all  the  care  that  had  been  observed  in  taking  nothing 
with  them  that  was  not  absolutely  necessary,  the  poor  pedes 
trians  were  heavily  laden,  and  their  burdens  added  to  the 
fatigue  of  their  rugged  road,  They  suffered  much,  too,  from 
hunger.  The  trout  they  caught  were  too  poor  to  yield  much 
nourishment ;  their  main  dependence,  therefore,  was  upon  an 
old  beaver  trap,  which  they  had  providentially  retained. 
Whenever  they  were  fortunate  enough  to  entrap  a  beaver,  it 
was  cut  up  immediately  ana  djstriouted,  that  each  man  might 
carry  his  share. 

After  two  days  of  toilsome  travel,  during  which  they  made 
but  eighteen  miles,  they  stopped  on  the  £lst  to  build  two  rafts 
on  which  to  cross  to  the  north  side  of  the  river.  On  these  they 
embarked  on  the  following  morning,  lour  on  one  raft,  and 
three  on  the  other,  and  pushed  boldly  from  shore.  Finding 
the  rafts  sufficiently  firm  and  steady  to  withstand  the  rough 
and  rapid  water,  they  changed  their  miners,  and  instead  of 
crossing,  ventured  to  float  down  with  the  current.  The  river 
was  in  general  very  rapid,  and  from  one  to  two  hundred  yards 
in  width,  winding  in  every  direction  through  mountains  of 
hard  black  rock,  covered  with  pines  and  cedars.  The  moun 
tains  to  the  east  of  the  river  were  spurs  or.  the  Rocky  range, 
and  of  great  magnitude ;  those  on  the  wes--  were  little  better 
than  hills,  bleak  and  barren,  or  scantily  clothed  with  stunted 
grass. 

Mad  River,  though  deserving  its  name  from  the  impetuosity 
of  its  current,  was  free  from  rapids  and  cascades,  and  flowed 
on  in  a  single  channel  between  gravel  banks,  often  fringed  with 
cotton-wood  and  dwarf  willows  in  abundance.  These  gave 
sustenance  to  immense  quantities  of  beaver,  so  that  the  voy- 
ageurs  found  no  difficulty  in  procuring  food.  Ben  Jones,  also, 
killed  a  fallow  deer  and  a  wolverine,  and  as  they  were  enabled 
to  carry  the  carcasses  on  their  rafts,  their  larder  was  well  sup 
plied.  Indeed  they  might  have  occasionally  shot  beavers  that 
were  swimming  in  the  river  as  they  floated  by,  but  they  hu 
manely  spared  their  lives,  being  in  no  want  of  meat  at  the 
time.  In  this  way  they  kept  down  the  river  for  three  days, 
drifting  with  the  current  and  encamping  on  land  at  night, 
when  they  drew  up  their  rafts  on  shore.  Toward  the  evening 
of  the  third  day,  they  came  to  a  little  island  on  which  they 
descried  a  gang  of  elk.  Ben  Jones  landed,  and  was  fortunate 


ASTORIA.  297 

enough  to  wound  one,  which  immediately  took  to  the  water, 
but,  being  unable  to  stem  the  current,  drifted  above  a  mile, 
when  it  was  overtaken  and  drawn  to  shore.  As  a  storm  was 
gathering,  they  now  encamped  on  the  margin  of  the  river, 
where  they  remained  all  the  next  day,  sheltering  themselves 
as  well  as  they  could  from  the  rain,  and  hail,  and  snow,  a 
sharp  foretaste  of  the  impending  winter.  During  their  en 
campment  they  employed  themselves  in  jerking  a  part  of  the 
elk  for  future  supply.  In  cutting  up  the  carcass  they  found 
that  the  animal  had  been  wounded  by  hunters,  about  a  week 
previously,  an  arrow  head  and  a  musket  ball  remaining  in  the 
wounds.  In  the  wilderness  every  trivial  circumstance  is  a 
matter  of  anxious  speculation.  The  Snake  Indians  have  no 
guns;  the  elk,  therefore,  could  not  have  been  wounded  by  one 
of  them.  They  were  on  the  borders  of  the  country  infested  by 
the  Blackfeet,  who  carry  firearms.  It  was  concluded,  there 
fore,  that  the  elk  had  been  hunted  by  some  of  that  wandering 
and  hostile  tribe,  who,  of  course,  must  be  in  the  neighborhood. 
Th«  idea  put  an  end  to  the  transient  solace  they  had  enjoyed 
in  the  comparative  repose  and  abundance  of  the  river. 

For  three  days  longer  they  continued  to  navigate  with  their 
rafts.  The  recent  storm  hid  rendered  the  weather  extremely 
cold.  They  had  now  floated  down  the  river  about  ninety-one 
miles,  when,  finding  the  mountains  on  the  right  diminished  to 
moderate  sized  hills,  they  landed,  and  prepared  to  resume  their 
journey  on  foot.  Accordingly,  having  spent  a  day  in  prepara 
tions,  making  moccasons,  and  parcelling  out  their  jerked  meat 
in  packs  of  twenty  pounds  to  each  man,  they  turned  their 
backs  upon  the  river  on  the  29th  of  September,  and  struck  off 
to  the  northeast;  keeping  along  the  southern  skirt  of  the 
mountain  on  which  Henry's  Fort  was  situated. 

Their  march  was  slow  and  toilsome ;  part  of  the  time  through 
an  alluvial  bottom,  thickly  grown  with  cotton- wood,  hawthorn, 
and  willows,  and  part  of  the  time  over  rough  hills.  Three  ante 
lopes  came  within  shot,  but  they  dared  not  fire  at  them,  lest 
the  report  of  their  rifles  should  betray  them  to  the  Blackfeet. 
In  the  course  of  the  day  they  came  upon  a  large  horse-track, 
apparently  about  three  weeks  old,  and  in  the  evening  en 
camped  on  the  ba,nks  of  a  small  stream,  on  a  spot  which  had 
been  the  camping  place  of  this  same  band. 

On  the  following  morning  they  still  observed  the  Indian 
track,  but  after  a  time  they  came  to  where  it  separated  in 
every  direction,  and  was  lost.  This  showed  that  the  band  had 


298  ASTORIA. 

dispersed  in  various  hunting  parties,  and  was,  in  all  proba 
bility,  still  in  the  neighborhood;  it  was  necessary,  therefore, 
to  proceed  with  the  utmost  caution.  They  kept  a  vigilant  eye 
as  they  marched,  upon  every  height  where  a  scout  might  be 
posted,  and  scanned  the  solitary  landscape  and  the  distant 
ravines,  to  observe  any  column  of  smoke ;  but  nothing  of  the 
kind  was  to  be  seen ;  all  was  indescribably  stern  and  lifeless. 

Toward  evening  they  came  to  where  there  were  several  hot 
springs,  strongly  impregnated  with  iron  and  sulphur,  and  send 
ing  up  a  volume  of  vapor  that  tainted  the  surrounding  atmos 
phere,  and  might  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  a  couple  of  miles. 

Near  to  these  they  encamped  in  a  deep  gully,  which  afforded 
some  concealment.  To  their  great  concern,  Mr.  Crooks,  who 
had  been  indisposed  for  the  two  preceding  days,  had  a  violent 
fever  in  the  night. 

Shortly  after  daybreak  they  resumed  their  march.  On 
emerging  from  the  glen  a  consultation  was  held  as  to  their 
course.  Should  they  continue  round  the  skirt  of  the  moun 
tain,  they  would  be  in  danger  of  falling  in  with  the  scattered 
parties  of  Blackfeet,  who  were  probably  hunting  in  the  plain, 
it  was  thought  most  advisable,  therefore,  to  strike  directly 
across  the  mountain,  since  the  route,  though  rugged  and  diffi 
cult,  would  be  most  secure.  This  counsel  was  indignantly  de 
rided  by  M'Lellan  as  pusillanimous.  Hot-headed  and  impatient 
at  all  times,  he  had  been  rendered  irascible  by  the  fatigues  of 
the  journey,  and  the  condition  of  his  feet,  which  were  chafed 
and  sore.  He  could  not  endure  the  idea  of  encountering  the 
difficulties  of  the  mountain,  and  swore  he  would  rather  face 
all  the  Blackfeet  in  the  country.  He  was  overruled,  however, 
and  the  party  began  to  ascend  the  mountain,  striving,  with 
the  ardor  and  emulation  of  young  men,  who  should  be  first 
up.  M'Lellan,  who  was  double  the  age  of  some  of  his  com 
panions,  soon  began  to  lose  breath,  and  fall  in  the  rear.  In 
the  distribution  of  burdens,  it  was  his  turn  to  carry  the  old 
beaver  trap.  Piqued  and  irritated,  he  suddenly  came  to  a 
halt,  swore  he  would  carry  it  no  further,  and  jerked  it  half 
way  down  the  hill.  He  was  offered  in  place  of  it  a  package  of 
dried  meat,  but  this  he  scornfully  threw  upon  the  ground. 
They  might  carry  it,  he  said,  who  needed  it,  for  his  part,  he 
could  provide  his  daily  food  with  his  rifle.  He  concluded  by 
flinging  off  from  the  party,  and  keeping  along  the  skirts  of  the 
mountain,  leaving  those,  he  said,  to  climb  rocks,  who  were 
afraid  to  face  Indians.  It  was  in  vain  that  Mr.  Stuart  rep- 


ASTORIA.  299 

resented  to  him  the  rashness  of  his  conduct,  and  the  dangers 
to  which  he  exposed  himself;  he  rejected  such  counsel  as 
craven.  It  was  equally  useless  to  represent  the  dangers  to 
which  he  subjected  his  companions ;  as  he  could  be  discovered 
at  a  great  distance  on  those  naked  plains,  and  the  Indians, 
seeing  him,  would  know  that  there  must  be  other  white  men 
within  reach.  M'Lellan  turned  a  deaf  ear  to  every  remon 
strance,  and  kept  on  his  wilful  way. 

It  seems  a  strange  instance  of  perverseness  in  this  man  thus 
to  fling  himself  off  alone,  in  a  savage  region,  where  solitude  it 
self  was  dismal,  but  every  encounter  with  his  fellow-man  full 
of  peril.  Such,  however,  is  the  hardness  of  spirit,  and  the  in 
sensibility  to  danger  that  grow  upon  men  in  the  wilderness. 
M'Lellaii,  moreover,  was  a  man  of  peculiar  temperament,  un 
governable  in  his  will,  of  a  courage  that  absolutely  knew  no 
fear,  and  somewhat  of  a  braggart  spirit,  that  took  a  pride  in 
doing  desperate  and  hair-brained  things. 

Mr.  Stuart  and  his  party  found  the  passage  of  the  mountain 
somewhat  difficult,  on  account  of  the  snow,  which  in  many 
places  was  of  considerable  depth,  though  it  was  now  but  the  1st 
of  October.  They  crossed  the  summit  early  in  the  afternoon, 
and  beheld  below  them  a  plain  about  twenty  miles  wide, 
bounded  on  the  opposite  side  by  their  old  acquaintances,  the 
Pilot  Knobs,  those  towering  mountains  which  had  served  Mr. 
Hunt  as  landmarks  in  part  of  his  route  of  the  preceding  year. 
Through  the  intermediate  plain  wandered  a  river  about  fifty 
yards  wide,  sometimes  gleaming  in  open  day,  but  oftener  run 
ning  through  willowed  banks,  which  marked  its  serpentine 
course. 

Those  of  the  party  who  had  been  across  these  mountains 
pointed  out  much  of  the  bearings  of  the  country  to  Mr.  Stuart. 
They  showed  him  in  what  direction  must  lie  the  deserted  post 
called  Henry's  Fort,  where  they  had  abandoned  their  horses 
and  embarked  in  canoes,  and  they  informed  him  that  the 
stream  which  wandered  through  the  plain  below  them,  fell 
into  Henry  River,  half  way  between  the  fort  and  the  mouth  of 
Mad  or  Snake  River.  The  character  of  all  this  mountain  region 
was  decidedly  volcanic ;  and  to  the  northwest,  between  Henry's 
Fort  and  the  source  of  the  Missouri,  Mr.  Stuart  observed 
several  very  high  peaks  covered  with  snow,  from  two  of  which 
smoke  ascended  in  considerable  volumes,  apparently  from 
craters,  in  a  state  of  eruption. 

On  their  way  down  the  mountain,  when  they  had  reached 


300  ASTORIA. 

the  skirts,  they  descried  M'Lellan  at  a  distance,  in  the  advance, 
traversing  the  plain.  Whether  he  saw  them  or  not,  he  showed 
no  disposition  to  rejoin  them,  but  pursued  his  sullen  and  soli 
tary  way.  After  descending  into  the  plain,  they  kept  on 
about  six  miles,  until  they  reached  the  little  river,  which-was 
here  about  knee  deep,  and  richly  fringed  with  willows.  Here 
they  encamped  for  the  night.  At  this  encampment  the  fever 
of  Mr.  Crooks  increased  to  such  a  degree  that  it  was  impossible 
for  him  to  travel.  Some  of  the  men  were  strenuous  for  Mr. 
Stuart  to  proceed  without  him,  urging  the  imminent  danger 
they  were  exposed  to  by  delay  in  that  unknown  and  barren 
region,  infested  by  the  most  treacherous  and  inveterate  of  foes. 
They  represented  that  the  season  was  rapidly  advancing ;  the 
weather  for  some  days  had  been  extremely  cold ;  the  moun 
tains  were  already  almost  impassable  from  snow,  and  would 
soon  present  effectual  barriers.  Thsir  provisions  were  ex 
hausted  ;  there  was  no  game  to  be  seen,  and  they  did  not  dare 
to  use  their  rifles,  through  fear  of  drawing  upon  them  the 
Blackfeet. 

The  picture  thus  presented  was  too  true  to  be  contradicted, 
and  made  a  deep  impression  on  the  mind  of  Mr.  Stuart ;  but 
the  idea  of  abandoning  a  fellow-being,  and  a  comrade,  in  such 
a  forlorn  situation,  was  too  repugnant  to  his  feelings  to  be 
admitted  for  an  instant.  He  represented  to  the  men  that  the 
malady  of  Mr.  Crooks  could  not  be  of  long  duration,  and  that 
in  all  probability  he  would  be  able  to  travel  in  the  course  of  a 
few  days.  It  was  with  great  difficulty,  however,  that  he  pre 
vailed  upon  them  to  abide  the  event. 


CHAPTER  XLVII. 

As  the  travellers  were  now  in  a  dangerous  neighborhood 
where  the  report  of  a  rifle  might  bring  the  savages  upon  them, 
they  had  to  depend  upon  their  old  beaver-trap  for  subsistence. 
The  little  river  on  which  they  were  encamped  gave  many 
"beaver  signs,"  and  Ben  Jones  set  off  at  daybreak,  along  the 
willowed  banks,  to  find  a  proper  trapping -place.  As  he  was 
making  his  way  among  the  thickets,  with  his  trap  on  his 
shoulder  and  his  rifle  in  his  hand,  he  heard  a  crashing  sound, 
and  turning,  beheld  a  huge  grizzly  bear  advancing  upon  him 


ASTORIA,  301 

with  a  terrific  growl.  The  sturdy  Kentuckian  was  not  to  be 
intimidated  by  man  or  monster.  Levelling  his  rifle,  he  pulled 
trigger.  The  bear  was  wounded,  but  not  mortally;  instead, 
however,  of  rushing  upon  his  assailant,  as  is  generally  the  case 
with  this  kind  of  bear,  he  retreated  into  the  bushes.  Jones 
followed  him  for  some  distance,  but  with  suitable  caution,  and 
Bruin  effected  his  escape. 

As  there  was  every  prospect  of  a  detention  of  some  days  in 
this  place,  and  as  the  supplies  of  the  beaver  trap  were  too  pre 
carious  to  be  depended  upon,  it  became  absolutely  necessary  to 
run  some  risk  of  discovery  by  hunting  in  the  neighborhood. 
Ben  Jones,  therefore,  obtained  permission  to  range  with  his 
rifle  some  distance  from  the  camp,  and  set  off  to  beat  up  the 
river  banks,  in  defiance  of  bear  or  Blackfeet. 

He  returned  in  great  spirits  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours, 
having  come  upon  a  gang  of  elk  about  six  miles  off,  and  killed 
five.  This  was  joyful  news,  and  the  party  immediately  moved 
forward  to  the  place  where  he  had  left  the  carcasses.  They 
were  obliged  to  support  Mr.  Crooks  the  whole  distance,  for  he 
was  unable  to  walk.  Here  they  remained  for  two  or  three 
days,  feasting  heartily  on  elk  meat,  and  drying  as  much  as 
they  would  be  able  to  carry  away  with  them. 

By  the  5th  of  October,  some  simple  prescriptions,  together 
with  an  "  Indian  sweat,"  had  so  far  benefited  Mr.  Crooks,  that 
he  was  enabled  to  move  about;  they,  therefore,  set  forward 
slowly,  dividing  his  pack  and  accoutrements  among  them,  and 
made  a  creeping  day's  progress  of  eight  miles  south.  Their 
route  for  the  most  part  lay  through  swamps,  caused  by  the 
industrious  labors  of  the  beaver;  for  this  little  animal  had 
dammed  up  numerous  small  streams  issuing  from  the  Pilot 
Knob  Mountains,  so  that  the  low  grounds  on  their  borders  were 
completely  inundated.  In  the  course  of  their  march  they  killed 
a  grizzly  bear,  with  fat  on  its  flank  upwards  of  three  inches  in 
thickness.  This  was  an  acceptable  addition  to  their  stock  of 
elk  meat.  The  next  day  Mr.  Crooks  was  sufficiently  recruited 
in  strength  to  be  able  to  carry  his  rifle  and  pistols,  and  they 
made  a  march  of  seventeen  miles  along  the  borders  of  the  plain. 

Their  journey  daily  became  more  toilsome,  and  their  suffer 
ings  more  severe,  as  they  advanced.  Keeping  up  the  channel 
of  a  river,  they  traversed  the  rugged  summit  of  the  Pilot  Knob 
Mountain,  covered  with  snow  nine  inches  deep.  For  several 
days  they  continued,  bending  their  course  as  much  as  possible 
to  the  east,  over  a  succession  of  rocky  heights,  deep  valleys. 


302  ASTORIA 

and  rapid  streams.  Sometimes  their  dizzy  path  lay  along  the 
margin  of  perpendicular  precipices,  several  hundred  feet  in 
height,  where  a  single  false  step  might  precipitate  them  into 
the  rocky  bed  of  a  torrent  which  roared  below.  Not  the  least 
part  of  their  weary  task  was  the  fording  of  the  numerous  wind 
ings  and  branchings  of  the  mountain  rivers,  all  boisterous  in 
their  currents  and  icy  cold. 

Hunger  was  added  to  their  other  sufferings,  and  soon  be 
came  the  keenest.  The  small  supply  of  bear  and  elk  meat 
which  they  had  been  able  to  carry,  in  addition  to  their  previous 
burdens,  served  but  for  a  very  short  time.  In  their  anxiety  to 
struggle  forward,  they  had  but  little  time  to  hunt,  and  scarce 
any  game  in  their  path.  For  three  days  they  had  nothing  to 
eat  but  a  small  duck  and  a  few  poor  trout.  They  occasionally 
saw  numbers  of  antelopes,  and  tried  every  art  to  get  within 
shot ;  but  the  timid  animals  were  more  than  commonly  wild, 
and  after  tantalizing  the  hungry  hunters  for  a  time,  bounded 
away  beyond  all  chance  of  pursuit.  At  length  they  were  for 
tunate  enough  to  kill  one ;  it  was  extremely  meagre,  and  yield 
ed  but  a  scanty  supply ;  but  on  this  they  subsisted  for  several 
days. 

On  the  llth,  they  encamped  on  a  small  stream,  near  the  foot 
of  the  Spanish  Eiver  Mountain.  Here  they  met  with  traces  of 
that  wayward  and  solitary  being,  M'Lellan,  who  was  still  keep 
ing  on  ahead  of  them  through  these  lonely  mountains.  He  had 
encamped  the  night  before  on  this  stream ;  they  found  the  em 
bers  of  the  fire  by  which  he  had  slept,  and  the  remains  of  a 
miserable  wolf  on  which  he  had  supped.  It  was  evident  he  had 
suffered,  like  themselves,  the  pangs  of  hunger,  though  he  had 
fared  better  at  this  encampment ;  for  they  had  not  a  mouthful 
to  eat. 

The  next  day  they  rose  hungry  and  alert,  and  set  out  with 
the  dawn  to  climb  the  mountain,  which  was  steep  and  difficult. 
Traces  of  volcanic  eruptions  were  to  be  seen  in  various  direc 
tions.  There  was  a  species  of  clay  also  to  be  met  with,  out  of 
which  the  Indians  manufacture  pots  and  jars,  and  dishes.  It  is 
very  fine  and  light,  of  an  agreeable  smell,  and  of  a  brown  color 
spotted  with  yellow,  and  dissolves  readily  in  the  mouth.  Ves 
sels  manufactured  of  it  are  said  to  impart  a  pleasant  smell  and 
flavor  to  any  liquids.  These  mountains  abound  also  with  min 
eral  earths,  or  chalks  of  various  colors;  especially  two  kinds  of 
ochre,  one  a  pale,  the  other  a  bright  red,  like  vermilion;  much 
used  by  the  Indians,  in  painting  their  bodies. 


ASTORIA.  303 

About  noon  the  travellers  reached  the  "  drains"  and  brooks 
that  formed  the  head  waters  of  the  river,  and  later  in  the  day 
descended  to  where  the  main  body,  a  shallow  stream,  about  a 
hundred  and  sixty  yards  wide,  poured  through  its  mountain 
valley. 

Here  the  poor  famishing  wanderers  had  expected  to  find  buf 
falo  in  abundance,  and  had  fed  their  hungry  hopes  during  their 
scrambling  toil,  with  the  thoughts  of  roasted  ribs,  juicy  humps, 
and  broiled  marrow  bones.  To  their  great  disappointment  the 
river  banks  were  deserted ;  a  few  old  tracks,  showed  where  a 
herd  of  bulls  had  some  time  before  passed  along,  but  not  a  horn 
nor  hump  was  to  be  seen  in  the  sterile  landscape.  A  few  ante 
lopes  looked  down  upon  them  from  the  brow  of  a  crag,  but 
flitted  away  out  of  sight  at  the  least  approach  of  the  hunter. 

In  the  most  starving  mood  they  kept  for  several  miles  further 
along  the  bank  of  the  river,  seeking  for  "  beaver  signs."  Find 
ing  some,  they  encamped  in  the  vicinity,  and  Ben  Jones  imme 
diately  proceeded  to  set  the  trap.  They  had  scarce  come  to  a 
halt,  when  they  perceived  a  large  smoke  at  some  distance 
to  the  southwest.  The  sight  was  hailed  with  joy,  for  they 
trusted  it  might  rise  from  some  Indian  camp,  where  they  could 
procure  something  to  eat,  and  the  dread  of  starvation  had  now 
overcome  even  the  terror  of  the  Blackfeet.  Le  Clerc,  one  of 
the  Canadians,  was  instantly  dispatched  by  Mr.  Stuart,  to  re 
connoitre  ;  and  the  travellers  sat  up  till  a  late  hour,  watching 
and  listening  for  his  return,  hoping  he  might  bring  them  food. 
Midnight  arrived,  but  Le  Clerc  did  not  make  his  appearance, 
and  they  laid  down  once  more  supperless  to  sleep,  comforting 
themselves  with  the  hopes  that  their  old  beaver  trap  might  fur 
nish  them  with  a  breakfast. 

At  daybreak  they  hastened  with  famished  eagerness  to  the 
trap— they  found  in  it  the  f orepaw  of  a  beaver;  the  sight  of 
which  tantalized  their  hunger,  and  added  to  their  dejection. 
They  resumed  their  journey  with  flagging  spirits,  but  had  not 
gone  far  when  they  perceived  Le  Clerc  approaching  at  a  dis 
tance.  They  hastened  to  meet  him,  in  hopes  of  tidings  of  good 
cheer.  He  had  none  to  give  them ;  but  news  of  that  strange 
wanderer,  M'Lellan.  The  smoke  had  risen  from  his  encamp 
ment,  which  took  fire  while  he  was  at  a  little  distance  from  it 
fishing.  Le  Clerc  found  him  in  forlorn  condition.  His  fishing 
had  been  unsuccessful.  During  twelve  days  that  he  had  been 
wandering  alone  through  these  savage  mountains,  he  had  found 
goarce  anything  to  eat.  He  had  been  ill,  wayworn,  sick  at 


3()4  ASTORIA. 

heart,  still  he  had  kept  forward ;  but  now  his  strength  and  his 
stubbornness  were  exhausted.  He  expressed  his  satisfaction  at 
hearing  that  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  party  were  near,  and  said  he 
would  wait  at  his  camp  for  their  arrival,  in  hopes  they  would 
give  him  something  to  eat,  for  without  food  he  declared  he 
should  not  be  able  to  proceed  much  further. 

When  the  party  reached  the  place,  they  found  the  poor 
fellow  lying  on  a  parcel  of  withered  grass,  wasted  to  a  perfect 
skeleton,  and  so  feeble  that  he  could  scarce  raise  his  head  to 
speak.  The  presence  of  his  old  comrades  seemed  to  revive  him ; 
but  they  had  no  food  to  give  him,  for  they  themselves  were 
almost  starving.  They  urged  him  to  rise  and  accompany 
them,  but  he  shook  his  head.  It  was  all  in  vain,  he  said ;  there 
was  no  prospect  of  their  getting  speedy  relief,  and  without  it  he 
should  perish  by  the  way;  he  might  as  well,  therefore,  stay 
and  die  where  he  was.  At  length,  after  much  persuasion,  they 
got  him  upon  his  legs ;  his  rifle  and  other  effects  were  shared 
among  them,  and  he  was  cheered  and  aided  forward.  In  this 
way  they  proceeded  for  seventeen  miles,  over  a  level  plain  of 
sand,  until,  seeing  a  few  antelopes  in  the  distance,  they  en 
camped  O:«L  the  margin  of  a  small  stream.  All  now  that  were 
capable  of  the  exertion,  turned  out  to  hunt  for  a  meal.  Their 
efforts  were  fruitless,  and  after  dark  they  returned  to  their 
camp,  famished  almost  to  desperation. 

As  they  were  preparing  for  the  third  time  to  lay  down  to 
sleep  without  a  mouthful  to  eat,  Le  Clerc,  one  of  the  Canadi 
ans,  gaunt  and  wild  with  hunger,  approached  Mr.  Stuart  with 
his  gun  in  his  hand.  ' '  It  was  all  in  vain, "  he  said,  ' '  to  attempt 
to  proceed  any  further  without  food.  They  had  a  barren  plain 
before  them,  three  or  four  days'  journey  in  extent,  on  which 
nothing  was  to  be  procured.  They  must  all  perish  before  they 
could  get  to  the  end  of  it.  It  was  better,  therefore,  that  one 
should  die  to  save  the  rest."  He  proposed,  therefore,  that  they 
should  cast  lots ;  adding  as  an  inducement  for  Mr.  Stuart  to 
assent  to  the  proposition,  that  he  as  leader  of  the  party,  should 
be  exempted. 

Mr.  Stuart  shuddered  at  the  horrible  proposition,  and 
endeavored  to  reason  with  the  man,  but  his  words  were 
unavailing.  At  length,  snatching  up  his  rifle,  he  threatened  to 
shoot  him  on  the  spot  if  he  persisted.  The  famished  wretch 
dropped  on  his  knees,  begged  pardon  in  the  most  abject 
terms,  and  promised  never  again  to  offend  him  with  such  a 
suggestion. 


ASTORIA.  305 

Quiet  being  restored  to  the  forlorn  encampment,  each  one 
sought  repose.  Mr.  Stuart,  however,  was  so  exhausted  by  the 
agitation  of  the  past  scene,  acting  upon  his  emaciated  frame, 
that  he  could  scarce  crawl  to  his  miserable  couch ;  where,  not 
withstanding  his  fatigues,  he  passed  a  sleepless  night,  revolv 
ing  upon  their  dreary  situation,  and  the  desperate  prospect  be 
fore  them. 

Before  daylight  the  next  morning,  they  were  up  and  on  their 
way ;  they  had  nothing  to  detain  them ;  no  breakfast  to  prepare, 
and  to  linger  was  to  perish.  They  proceeded,  however,  but 
slowly,  for  all  were  faint  and  weak.  Here  and  there  they 
passed  the  skulls  and  bones  of  buffaloes,  which  showed  that 
these  animals  must  have  been  hunted  here  during  the  past 
season;  the  sight  of  these  bones  served  only  to  mock  their 
misery.  After  travelling  about  nine  miles  along  the  plain, 
they  ascended  a  range  of  hills,  and  had  scarcely  gone  two  miles 
further,  when  to  their  great  joy,  they  discovered  "  an  old  run 
down  buffalo  bull;"  the  laggard  probably  of  some  herd  that 
had  been  hunted  and  harassed  through  the  mountains.  They 
now  all  stretched  themselves  out  to  encompass  and  make  sure 
of  tins  solitary  animal,  for  their  lives  depended  upon  their  suc 
cess.  After  considerable  trouble  and  infinite  anxiety,  they  at 
length  succeeded  in  killing  him.  He  was  instantly  flayed  and 
cut  up,  and  so  ravenous  was  their  hunger  that  they  devoured 
some  of  the  flesh  raw.  The  residue  they  carried  to  a  brook 
near  by,  where  they  encamped,  lit  a  fire,  and  began  to  cook. 

Mr.  Stuart  was  fearful  that  in  their  famished  state,  they 
would  eat  to  excess  and  injure  themselves.  He  caused  a  soup 
to  be  made  of  some  of  the  meat,  and  that  each  should  take  a 
quantity  of  it  as  a  prelude  to  his  supper.  This  may  have  had  a 
beneficial  effect,  for  though  they  sat  up  the  greater  part  of  the 
night,  cooking  and  cramming,  no  one  suffered  any  inconve 
nience. 

The  next  morning  the  feasting  was  resumed,  and  about  mid 
day,  feeling  somewhat  recruited  and  refreshed,  they  set  out  on 
their  journey  with  renovated  spirits,  shaping  their  course 
toward  a  mountain,  the  summit  of  which  they  saw  towering  in 
the  east,  and  near  to  which  they  expected  to  find  the  head 
waters  of  the  Missouri. 

As  they  proceeded,  they  continued  to  see  the  skeletons  of 
buffaloes  scattered  about  the  plain  in  every  direction,  which 
showed  that  there  had  been  much  hunting  here  by  the  Indians  . 
in  the  recent  season.     Further  on  they  crossed  a  large  Indian 


306  ASTORIA. 

trail,  forming  a  deep  path,  about  fifteen  days  old,  which  went 
in  a  north  direction.  They  concluded  it  to  have  been  made  by 
some  numerous  band  of  Crows,  who  had  hunted  in  this  country 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  summer. 

On  the  following  day  they  forded  a  stream  of  considerable 
magnitude,  with  banks  clothed  with  pine  trees.  Among  these 
they  found  the  traces  of  a  large  Indian  camp,  which  had  evi 
dently  been  the  headquarters  of  a  hunting  expedition,  from  the 
great  quantities  of  buffalo  bones  strewed  about  the  neighbor 
hood.  The  camp  had  apparently  been  abandoned  about  a 
month. 

In  the  centre  was  a  singular  lodge  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
in  circumference,  supported  by  the  trunks  of  twenty  trees, 
about  twelve  inches  in  diameter  and  forty-four  feet  long. 
Across  these  were  laid  branches  of  pine  and  willow  trees,  so  as 
to  yield  a  tolerable  shade.  At  the  west  end,  immediately  oppo 
site  to  the  door,  three  bodies  lay  interred  with  their  feet 
toward  the  east.  At  the  head  of  each  grave  was  a  branch  of 
red  cedar  firmly  planted  in  the  ground.  At  the  foot  was  a 
large  buffalo's  skull,  painted  black.  Savage  ornaments  were 
suspended  in  various  parts  of  the  edifice,  and  a  great  number 
of  children's  moccasons.  From  the  magnitude  of  this  building, 
and  the  time  and  labor  that  must  have  been  expended  in  erect 
ing  it,  the  bodies  which  it  contained  were  probably  those  of 
noted  warriors  and  hunters. 

The  next  day,  October  17th,  they  passed  two  large  tributary 
streams  of  the  Spanish  Eiver.  They  took  their  rise  in  the 
Wind  River  Mountains,  which  ranged  along  to  the  east,  stu 
pendously  high  and  rugged,  composed  of  vast  masses  of  black 
rock,  almost  destitute  of  wood,  and  covered  in  many  places 
with  snow.  This  day  they  saw  a  few  buffalo  bulls,  and  some 
antelopes,  but  could  not  kill  any ;  and  their  stock  of  provisions 
began  to  grow  scanty  as  well  as  poor. 

On  the  18th,  after  crossing  a  mountain  ridge,  and  traversing 
a  plain,  they  waded  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Spanish  River, 
and  on  ascending  its  bank,  met  with  about  a  hundred  and 
thirty  Snake  Indians. '  They  were  friendly  in  their  demeanor, 
and  conducted  them  to  their  encampment,  which  was  about 
three  miles  distant.  It  consisted  of  about  forty  wigwams,  con 
structed  principally  of  pine  branches.  The  Snakes,  like  most 
of  their  nation,  were  very  poor ;  the  marauding  Crows,  in  their 
late  excursion  through  the  country,  had  picked  this  unlucky 
band  to  the  very  bone,  carrying  off  their  horses,  several  of 


ASTORIA.  307 

their  squaws,  and  most  of  their  effects.  In  spite  of  their  pov 
erty,  they  were  hospitable  in  the  extreme,  and  made  the 
hungry  strangers  welcome  to  their  cabins.  A  few  trinkets 
procured  from  them  a  supply  of  buffalo  meat,  and  of  leather 
for  moccasons,  of  which  the  party  were  greatly  in  need.  The 
most  valuable  prize  obtained  from  them,  however,  was  a 
horse ;  it  wa,s  a  sorry  old  animal,  in  truth,  but  it  was  the  only 
one  that  remained  to  the  poor  fellows,  after  the  fell  swoop  of 
the  Crows ;  yet  this  they  were  prevailed  upon  to  part  with  to 
their  guests  for  a  pistol,  an  axe,  a  knife,  and  a  few  other 
trifling  articles. 

They  had  doleful  stories  to  tell  of  the  Crows,  who  were  en> 
camped  on  a  river  at  no  great  distance  to  the  east,  and  were  in 
such  force  that  they  dared  not  venture  to  seek  any  satisfac 
tion  for  their  outrages,  or  to  get  back  a  horse  or  squaw.  They 
endeavored  to  excite  the  indignation  of  their  visitors  by  ac 
counts  of  robberies  and  murders  committed  on  lonely  white 
hunters  and  trappers  by  Crows  and  Blackfeet.  Some  of  these 
were  exaggerations  of  the  outrages  already  mentioned,  sus 
tained  by  some  of  the  scattered  members  of  Mr.  Hunt's  expedi 
tion  ;  others  were  in  all  probability  sheer  fabrications,  to  which 
the  Snakes  seem  to  have  been  a  little  prone.  Mr.  Stuart  as 
sured  them  that  the  day  was  not  far  distant  when  the  whites 
would  make  their  power  to  be  felt  throughout  that  country 
and  take  signal  vengeance  on  the  perpetrators  of  these  mis 
deeds.  The  Snakes  expressed  great  joy  at  the  intelligence,  and 
offered  their  services  to  aid  the  righteous  cause,  brightening 
at  the  thoughts  of  taking  the  field  with  such  potent  allies,  and 
doubtless  anticipating  their  turn  at  stealing  horses  and  abduct 
ing  squaws.  Their  offers  of  course  were  accepted ;  the  calumet 
of  peace  was  produced,  and  the  two  forlorn  powers  smoked 
eternal  friendship  between  themselves,  and  vengeance  upon 
their  common  spoilers,  the  Crows. 


CHAPTER  XLVIII. 

BY  sunrise  on  the  following  morning  (October  19th),  the 
travellers  had  loaded  their  old  horse  with  buffalo  meat,  suffi 
cient  for  five  days'  provisions,  and,  taking  leave  of  their  new 
allies,  the  poor  but  hospitable  Snakes,  set  forth  in  somewhat 


308  ASTORIA. 

better  spirits,  though  the  increasing  cold  of  the  weather  and 
the  sight  of  the  snowy  mountains  which  they  had  yet  to 
traverse,  were  enough  to  chill  their  very  hearts.  The  country 
along  this  branch  of  the  Spanish  River,  as  far  as  they  could 
see,  was  perfectly  level,  bounded  by  ranges  of  lofty  moun 
tains,  both  to  the  east  and  west.  They  proceeded  about  three 
miles  to  the  south,  where  they  came  again  upon  the  large  trail 
of  Crow  Indians,  which  they  had  crossed  four  days  previously, 
made,  no  doubt,  by  the  same  marauding  band  that  had  plun 
dered  the  Snakes ;  and  which,  according  to  the  account  of  the 
latter,  was  now  encamped  on  a  stream  to  the  eastward.  The 
trail  kept  on  to  the  southeast,  and  was  so  well  beaten  by  horse 
and  foot,  that  they  supposed  at  least  a  hundred  lodges  had 
passed  along  it.  As  it  formed,  therefore,  a  convenient  high 
way,  and  ran  in  a  proper  direction,  they  turned  into  it,  and 
determined  to  keep  along  it  as  far  as  safety  would  permit ;  as 
the  Crow  encampment  must  be  some  distance  off,  and  it  was 
not  likely  those  savages  would  return  upon  their  steps.  They 
travelled  forward,  therefore,  all  that  day,  in  the  track  of  their 
dangerous  predecessors,  which  led  them  across  mountain 
streams,  and  along  ridges,  and  through  narrow  valleys,  all 
tending  generally  toward  the  southeast.  The  wind  blew  coldly 
from  the  northeast,  with  occasional  flurries  of  snow,  which 
made  them  encamp  early,  on  the  sheltered  banks  of  a  brook. 
The  two  Canadians,  Vallee  and  Le  Clerc,  killed  a  young 
buffalo  bull  in  the  evening,  which  was  in  good  condition, 
and  afforded  them  a  plentiful  supply  of  fresh  beef.  They 
loaded  their  spits,  therefore,  and  crammed  their  camp  kettle 
with  meat,  and  while  the  wind  whistled,  and  the  snow 
whirled  around  them,  huddled  round  a  rousing  fire,  basked  in 
warmth,  and  comforted  both  soul  and  body  with  a  hearty  and 
invigorating  meal.  No  enjoyments  have  greater  zest  than 
these,  snatched  in  the  very  midst  of  difficulty  and  danger; 
and  it  is  probable  the  poor  wayworn  and  weather-beaten 
travellers  relished  these  creature  comforts  the  more  highly 
from  the  surrounding  desolation,  and  the  dangerous  proximity 
of  the  Crows. 

The  snow  which  had  fallen  in  the  night  made  it  late  in  the 
morning  before  the  party  loaded  their  solitary  pack-horse,  and 
resumed  their  march.  They  had  not  gone  far  before  the  Crow 
trace  which  they  were  following  changed  its  direction,  and 
bore  to  the  north  of  east.  They  had  already  begun  to  feel 
themselves  on  dangerous  ground  in  keeping  along  it,  as  they 


ASTORIA.  309 

might  be  descried  by  some  scouts  and  spies  of  that  race  of 
Ishmaelites,  whose  predatory  life  required  them  to  be  con 
stantly  on  the  alert.  On  seeing  the  trace  turn  so  much  to  the 
north,  thereforth,  they  abandoned  it,  and  kept  on  their  course 
to  the  northeast  for  eighteen  miles,  through  a  beautifully  un 
dulating  country,  having  the  main  chain  of  mountains  on  the 
left,  and  a  considerably  elevated  ridge  on  the  right.  Here  the 
mountain  ridge  which  divides  Wind  Eiver  from  the  head 
waters  of  the  Columbia  and  Spanish  Rivers  ends  abruptly,  and 
winding  to  the  north  of  east,  becomes  the  dividing  barrier  be 
tween  a  branch  of  the  Big  Horn  and  Cheyenne  Rivers,  and 
those  head  waters  which  flow  into  the  Missouri  below  the 
Sioux  country. 

The  ridge  which  lay  on  the  right  of  the  travellers  having  now 
become  very  low,  they  passed  over  it,  and  came  into  a  level 
plain  about  ten  miles  in  circumference,  and  incrusted  to  the 
depth  of  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  with  salt  as  white  as  snow. 
This  is  furnished  by  numerous  salt  springs  of  limpid  water, 
which  are  continually  welling  up,  overflowing  their  borders 
and  forming  beautiful  crystallizations.  The  Indian  tribes  of 
the  interior  are  excessively  fond  of  this  salt,  and  repair  to  the 
valley  to  collect  it,  but  it  is  held  in  distaste  by  the  tribes  of  the 
sea-coast,  who  will  eat  nothing  that  has  been  cured  or  seasoned 
by  it. 

This  evening  they  encamped  on  the  banks  of  a  small  stream, 
in  the  open  prairie.  The  northeast  wind  was  keen  and  cut 
ting  ;  they  had  nothing  wherewith  to  make  a  tire,  but  a  scanty 
growth  of  sage,  or  wormwood,  and  were  fain  to  wrap  themselves 
up  in  their  blankets,  and  huddle  themselves  in  their  "nests," 
at  an  early  hour.  In  the  course  of  the  evening,  Mr.  M'Lellan, 
who  had  now  regained  his  strength,  killed  a  buffalo,  but  it 
was  some  distance  from  the  camp,  and  they  postponed  supply 
ing  themselves  from  the  carcass  until  the  following  morning. 

The  next  day  (October  21st)  the  cold  continued,  accompanied 
by  snow.  They  set  forward  on  their  bleak  and  toilsome  way, 
keeping  to  the  east-northeast,  toward  the  lofty  summit  of  a 
mountain,  which  it  was  necessary  for  them  to  cross.  Before 
they  reached  its  base  they  passed  another  large  trail,  steering 
a  little  to  the  right  of  the  point  of  the  mountain.  This  they 
presumed  to  have  been  made  by  another  band  of  Crows,  who 
had  probably  been  hunting  lower  down  on  the  Spanish  River. 

The  severity  of  the  weather  compelled  them  to  encamp  at 
the  end  of  fifteen  miles,  on  the  skirts  of  the  mountain,  where 


310  ASTORIA. 

they  found  sufficient  dry  aspen  trees  to  supply  them  with  fire, 
but  they  sought  in  vain  about  the  neighborhood  for  a  spring 
or  rill  of  water. 

At  daybreak  they  were  up  and  on  the  march,  scrambling 
up  the  mountain  side  for  the  distance  of  eight  painful  miles. 
From  the  casual  hints  given  in  the  travelling  memoranda  of 
Mr.  Stuart,  this  mountain  would  seem  to  offer  a  rich  field  of 
speculation  for  the  geologist.  Here  was  a  plain  three  miles 
in  diameter,  strewed  with  pumice  stone  and  other  volcanic 
reliques,  with  a  lake  in  the  centre,  occupying  what  had  prob 
ably  been  the  crater.  Here  were  also,  in  some  places,  deposits 
of  marine  shells,  indicating  that  this  mountain  crest  had  at 
some  remote  period  been  below  the  waves. 

After  pausing  to  repose,  and  to  enjoy  these  grand  but 
savage  and  awful  scenes,  they  began  to  descend  the  eastern 
side  of  the  mountain.  The  descent  was  rugged  and  romantic, 
along  deep  ravines  and  defiles,  overhung  with  crags  and  cliffs, 
among  which  they  beheld  numbers  of  the  ahsahta  or  bighorn, 
skipping  fearlessly  from  rock  to  rock.  Two  of  them  they  suc 
ceeded  in  bringing  down  with  their  rifles,  as  they  peered  fear 
lessly  from  the  brow  of  their  airy  precipices. 

Arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  the  travellers  found 
a  rill  of  water  oozing  out  of  the  earth,  and  resembling  in  look 
and  taste  the  water  of  the  Missouri.  Here  they  encamped  for 
the  night,  and  supped  sumptuously  upon  their  mountain  mut 
ton,  which  they  found  in  good  condition,  and  extremely  well 
tasted. 

The  morning  was  bright  and  intensely  cold.  Early  in  the 
day  they  came  upon  a  stream  running  to  the  east,  between 
low  hills  of  bluish  earth,  strongly  impregnated  with  copperas. 
Mr.  Stuart  supposed  this  to  be  one  of  the  head  waters  of  the 
Missouri,  and  determined  to  follow  its  banks.  After  a  march 
of  twenty-six  miles,  however,  he  arrived  at  the  summit  of  a 
hill,  the  prospect  of  which  induced  him  to  alter  his  intention. 
He  beheld,  in  every  direction  south  of  east,  a  vast  plain, 
bounded  only  by  the  horizon,  through  which  wandered  the 
stream  in  question,  in  a  south-southeast  direction.  It  could 
not,  therefore,  be  a  branch  of  the  Missouri.  He  now  gave  up 
all  idea  of  taking  the  stream  for  his  guide,  and  shaped  his 
course  toward  a  range  of  mountains  in  the  east,  about  sixty 
miles  distant,  near  which  he  hoped  to  find  another  stream. 

The  weather  was  now  so  severe,  and  the  hardships  of  travel 
ling  so  great,  that  he  resolved  to  halt  for  the  winter,  at  the 


ASTORIA.  311 

first  eligible  place.  That  night  they  had  to  encamp  on  the 
open  prairie,  near  a  scanty  pool  of  water,  and  without  any 
wood  to  make  a  fire.  The  northeast  wind  blew  keenly  across 
the  naked  waste,  and  they  were  fain  to  decamp  from  their 
inhospitable  bivouac  before  the  dawn. 

For  two  days  they  kept  on  in  an  eastward  direction,  against 
wintry  blasts  and  occasional  snow  storms.  They  suffered, 
also,  from  scarcity  of  water,  having  occasionally  to  use  melted 
snow;  this,  with  the  want  of  pasturage,  reduced  their  old 
pack-horse  sadly.  They  saw  many  tracks  of  buffalo,  and 
some  few  bulls,  which,  however,  got  the  wind  of  them,  and 
scampered  off. 

On  the  26th  of  October  they  steered  east-northeast,  for  a 
wooded  ravine,  in  a  mountain  at  a  small  distance  from  the 
base  of  which,  to  their  great  joy,  they  discovered  an  abundant 
stream,  running  between  willowed  banks.  Here  they  halted 
for  the  night,  and  Ben  Jones  having  luckily  trapped  a  beaver, 
and  killed  two  buffalo  bulls,  they  remained  all  the  next  day 
encamped,  feasting  and  reposing,  and  allowing  their  jaded 
horse  to  rest  from  his  labors. 

The  little  stream  on  which  they  were  encamped,  was  one 
of  the  head  waters  of  the  Platte  Eiver,  which  flows  into  the 
Missouri ;  it  was,  in  fact,  the  northern  fork,  or  branch  of  that 
river,  though  this  the  travellers  did  not  discover  until  long 
afterward.  Pursuing  the  course  of  this  stream  for  about 
twenty  miles,  they  came  to  where  it  forced  a  passage  through 
a  range  of  high  hills  covered  with  cedars,  into  an  extensive 
low  country,  affording  excellent  pasture  to  numerous  herds  of 
buffalo.  Here  they  killed  three  cows,  which  were  the  first 
"they  had  been  able  to  get,  having  hitherto  had  to  content 
themselves  with  bull  beef,  which  at  this  season  of  the  year  is 
very  poor.  The  hump  meat  afforded  them  a  repast  fit  for  an 
epicure. 

Late  on  the  afternoon  of  the  30th  they  came  to  where  the 
stream,  now  increased  to  a  considerable  size,  poured  along  in 
a  ravine  between  precipices  of  red  stone,  two  hundred  feet  in 
height.  For  some  distance  it  dashed  along,  over  huge  masses 
of  rock,  with  foaming  violence,  as  if  exasperated  by  being 
compressed  into  so  narrow  a  channel,  and  at  length  leaped 
down  a  chasm  that  looked  dark  and  frightful  in  the  gathering 
twilight. 

For  a  part  of  the  next  day,  the  wild  river,  in  its  capricious 
wanderings,  led  them  through  a  variety  of  striking  scenes. 


312  ASTORIA. 

At  one  time  they  were  upon  high  plains,  like  platforms  among 
the  mountains,  with  herds  of  buffaloes  roaming  about  them; 
at  another,  among  rude  rocky  defiles,  broken  into  cliffs  and 
precipices,  where  the  black-tailed  deer  bounded  off  among  the 
crags,  and  the  bighorn  basked  on  the  sunny  brow  of  the  preci 
pice. 

In  the  after  part  of  the  day  they  came  to  another  scene, 
surpassing  in  savage  grandeur  those  already  described.  They 
had  been  travelling  for  some  distance  through  a  pass  of  the 
mountains,  keeping  parallel  with  the  river,  as  it  roared  along, 
out  of  sight,  through  a  deep  ravine.  Sometimes  their  devious 
path  approached  the  margin  of  cliffs  below  which  the  river 
foamed  and  boiled  and  whirled  among  the  masses  of  rock  that 
had  fallen  into  its  channel.  As  they  crept  cautiously  on,  lead 
ing  their  solitary  pack-horse  along  these  giddy  heights,  they 
all  at  once  came  to  where  the  river  thundered  down  a  succes 
sion  of  precipices,  throwing  up  clouds  of  spray,  and  making 
a  prodigious  din  and  uproar.  The  travellers  remained,  for  a 
time,  gazing  with  mingled  awe  and  delight,  at  this  furious 
cataract,  to  which  Mr.  Stuart  gave,  from  the  color  of  tho 
impending  rocks,  the  name  of  "The  Fiery  Narrows." 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 

• 

THE  travellers  encamped  for  the  night  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  below  the  cataract.  The  night  was  cold,  with  partial 
showers  of  rain  and  sleet.  The  morning  dawned  gloomily,  the 
skies  were  sullen  and  overcast,  and  threatened  further  storms ; 
but  the  little  band  resumed  their  journey,  in  defiance  of  the 
weather.  The  increasing  rigor  of  the  season,  however,  which 
makes  itself  felt  early  in  these  mountainous  regions,  and  on 
these  naked  and  elevated  plains,  brought  them  to  a  pause,  and 
a  serious  deliberation,  after  they  had  descended  about  thirty 
miles  further  along  the  course  of  the  river. 

All  were  convinced  that  it  was  in  vain  to  attempt  to  accom 
plish  their  journey  on  foot  at  this  inclement  season.  They 
had  still  many  hundred  miles  to  traverse  before  they  should 
reach  the  main  course  of  the  Missouri,  and  their  route  would 
lay  over  immense  prairies,  naked  and  bleak,  arid  destitute  of 
fuel.  The  question  then  was,  where  to  choose  their  wintering 


ASTORIA.  313 

place,  and  whether  or  not  to  proceed  further  down  the  river. 
They  had  at  first  imagined  it  to  be  one  of  the  head  waters,  or 
tributary  streams,  of  the  Missouri.  Afterward,  they  had 
believed  it  to  be  the  Rapid,  or  Quicourt  Eiver,  in  which 
opinion  they  had  not  come  nearer  to  the  truth;  they  now, 
however,  were  persuaded,  with  equal  fallacy,  by  its  inclining 
somewhat  to  the  north  of  east,  that  it  was  the  Cheyenne.  If 
so,  by  continuing  down  it  much  further  they  must  arrive 
among  the  Indians,  from  whom  the  river  takes  its  name. 
Among  these  they  would  be  sure  to  meet  some  of  the  Sioux 
tribe.  These  would  apprise  their  relatives,  the  piratical  Sioux 
of  the  Missouri,  of  the  approach  of  a  band  of  white  traders ;  so 
that,  in  the  spring  time,  they  would  be  likely  to  be  waylaid 
and  robbed  on  their  way  down  the  river,  by  some  party  in 
ambush  upon  its  banks. 

Even  should  this  prove  to  be  the  Quicourt  or  Rapid  River,  it 
would  not  be  prudent  to  winter  much  further  down  upon  its 
banks,  as,  though  they  might  be  out  of  the  range  of  the  Sioux, 
they  would  be  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Poncas,  a  tribe 
nearly  as  dangerous.  It  was  resolved,  therefore,  since  they 
must  winter  somewhere  on  this  side  of  the  Missouri,  to 
descend  no  lower,  but  to  keep  up  in  these  solitary  regions, 
where  they  would  be  in  no  danger  of  molestation. 

They  were  brought  the  more  promptly  and  unanimously  to 
this  decision,  by  coming  upon  an  excellent  wintering  place, 
that  promised  everything  requisite  for  their  comfort.  It  was 
on  a  fine  bend  of  the  river,  just  below  where  it  issued  out  from 
among  a  ridge  of  mountains,  and  bent  toward  the  northeast. 
Here  was  a  beautiful  low  po^nt  of  land,  covered  by  cotton- 
wood,  and  surrounded  by  a  thick  growth  of  willow,  so  as  to 
yield  both  shelter  and  fuel,  as  well  as  materials  for  building. 
The  river  swept  by  in  a  strong  current,  about  a  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  wide.  To  the  southeast  were  mountains  of  moder 
ate  height,  the  nearest  about  two  miles  off,  but  the  whole  chain 
ranging  to  the  east,  south,  and  southwest,  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach.  Their  summits  were  crowned  with  extensive 
tracts  of  pitch  pine,  checkered  with  small  patches  of  the  quiv 
ering  aspen.  Lower  down  were  thick  forests  of  firs  and  red 
cedars,  growing  out  in  many  places  from  the  very  fissures  of 
the  rocks.  The  mountains  were  broken  and  precipitous,  with 
huge  bluffs  protruding  from  among  the  forests.  Their  rocky 
recesses  and  beetling  cliffs  afforded  retreats  to  innumerable 
flocks  of  the  bighorn,  while  their  woody  summits  and  ravines 


314  ASTORIA. 

abounded  with  bears  and  black-tailed  deer.  These,  with  the 
numerous  herds  of  buffalo  that  ranged  the  lower  grounds  along 
the  river,  promised  the  travellers  abundant  cheer  in  their 
winter  quarters. 

On  the  2d  of  November,  therefore,  they  pitched  their  camp  for 
the  winter,  on  the  woody  point,  and  their  first  thought  was  to 
obtain  a  supply  of  provisions.  Ben  Jones  and  the  two  Cana 
dians  accordingly  sallied  forth,  accompanied  by  two  others  of 
the  party,  leaving  but  one  to  watch  the  camp.  Their  hunting 
was  uncommonly  successful.  In  the  course  of  two  days  they 
killed  thirty-two  buffaloes,  and  collected  their  meat  on  the 
margin  of  a  small  brook,  about  a  mile  distant.  Fortunately,  a 
severe  frost  froze  the  river,  so  that  the  meat  was  easily  trans 
ported  to  the  encampment.  On  a  succeeding  day,  a  herd  of 
buffalo  came  trampling  throught  the  woody  bottom  on  the 
river  banks,  and  fifteen  more  were  killed. 

It  was  soon  discovered,  however,  that  there  was  game  of  a 
more  dangerous  nature  in  the  neighborhood.  On  one  occasion 
Mr.  Crooks  had  wandered  about  a  mile  from  the  camp,  and 
had  ascended  a  small  hill  commanding  a  view  of  the  river. 
He  was  without  his  rifle,  a  rare  circumstance,  for  in  these 
wild  regions,  where  one  may  put  up  a  wild  animal,  or  a  wild 
Indian,  at  every  turn,  it  is  customary  never  to  stir  from  the 
camp-fire  unarmed.  The  hill  where  he  stood  overlooked  the 
place  where  the  massacre  of  the  buffalo  had  taken  place.  As 
he  was  looking  around  on  the  prospect  his  eye  was  caught  by 
an  object  below,  moving  directly  toward  him.  To  his  dismay 
he  discovered  it  to  be  a  grizzly  bear,  with  two  cubs.  There 
was  no  tree  at  hand  into  which  he  could  climb ;  to  ran  would 
only  be  to  provoke  pursuit,  and  he  should  soon  be  overtaken. 
He  threw  himself  on  the  ground,  therefore,  and  lay  motionless, 
watching  the  movements  of  the  animal  with  intense  anxiety. 
It  continued  to  advance  until  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  when  it 
turned,  and  made  into  the  woods,  having  probably  gorged  it 
self  with  buffalo  flesh.  Mr.  Crooks  made  all  haste  back  to  the 
camp,  rejoicing  at  his  escape,  and  determining  never  to  stir 
out  again  without  his  rifle.  A  few  days  after  this  circum 
stance,  a  grizzly  bear  was  shot  in  the  neighborhood  by  Mr. 
Miller. 

As  the  slaughter  of  so  many  buffaloes  had  provided  the 
party  with  beef  for  the  winter,  in  case  they  met  with  no 
further  supply,  they  now  set  to  work,  heart  and  hand,  to  build 
a  comfortable  wigwam.  In  a  little  while  the  woody  promon- 


ASTORIA. 

tory  rang  with  the  unwonted  sound  of  the  axe.  Some  of  its 
lofty  trees  were  laid  low,  and  by  the  second  evening  the  cabin 
was  complete.  It  was  eight  feet  wide,  and  eighteen  feet  long. 
The  walls  were  six  feet  high,  and  the  whole  was  covered 
with  buffalo  skins.  The  fireplace  was  in  the, centre,  and  the 
smoke  found  its  way  out  by  a  hole  in  the  roof. 

The  hunters  were  next  sent  out  to  procure  deer  skins  for 
garments,  moccasons,  and  other  purposes.  They  made  the 
mountains  echo  with  their  rifles,  and,  in  the  course  of  two 
days'  hunting,  killed  twenty-eight  bighorns  and  black-tailed 
deer. 

The  party  now  revelled  in  abundance.  After  all  that  they 
had  suffered  from  hunger,  cold,  fatigue,  and  watchfulness; 
after  all  their  perils  from  treacherous  and  savage  men,  they 
exulted  in  the  snugness  and  security  of  their  isolated  cabin, 
hidden,  as  they  thought,  even  from  the  prying  eyes  of  Indian 
scouts,  and  stored  with  creature  comforts;  and  they  looked 
forward  to  a  winter  of  peace  and  quietness ;  of  roasting,  and 
boiling,  and  broiling,  and  feasting  upon  venison,  and  moun 
tain  mutton,  and  bear's  meat,  and  marrow  bones,  and  buffalo 
humps,  and  other  hunter's  dainties,  and  of  dosing  and  reposing 
round  their  fire,  and  gossiping  over  past  dangers  and  adven- 
uires,  and  telling  long  hunting  stories,  until  spring  should 
return ;  when  they  would  make  canoes  of  buffalo  skins  and 
float  themselves  down  the  river. 

From  such  halcyon  dreams  they  were  startled  one  morning 
at  daybreak,  by  a  savage  yell.  They  started  up,  and  seized 
their  rifles.  The  yell  was  repeated  by  two  or  three  voices. 
Cautiously  peeping  out,  they  beheld,  to  their  dismay,  several 
Indian  warriors  among  the  trees,  all  armed  and  painted  in 
warlike  style ;  being  evidently  bent  on  some  hostile  purpose. 

Miller  changed  countenance  as  he  regarded  them.  '•  We  are 
in  trouble, "  said  he,  ' '  these  are  some  of  the  rascally  Arapa- 
hays  that  robbed  me  last  year."  Not  a  word  was  uttered  'by 
the  rest  of  the  party,  but  they  silently  slung  their  powder 
horns  and  ball  pouches,  and  prepared  for  battle.  M'Lellan, 
who  had  taken  his  gun  to  pieces  the  evening  before,  put  it 
together  in  all  haste.  He  proposed  that  they  should  break 
out  the  clay  from  between  the  logs,  so  as  to  be  able  to  fire 
upon  the  enemy. 

"Not  yet,"  replied  Stuart;  "it  will  not  do  to  show  fear  or 
distrust ;  we  must  first  hold  a  parley.  Some  one  must  go  out 
and  meet  them  as  a  friend." 


316  ASTORIA. 

Who  was  to  undertake  the  task?  it  was  full  of  peril,  as  the 
envoy  might  be  shot  down  at  the  threshold. 

"The  leader  of  a  party,"  said  Miller,  "  ahvays  takes  the  ad 
vance." 

"Good!"  replied  Stuart;  "I  am  ready."  He  immediately 
went  forth;  one  of  the  Canadians  followed  him;  the  rest  of 
the  party  remained  in  garrison,  to  keep  the  savages  in  cheek. 

Stuart  advanced  holding  his  rifle  in  one  hand,  and  extending 
the  other  to  the  savage  that  appeared  to  be  the  chief.  The 
latter  stepped  forward  and  took  it ;  his  men  followed  his  ex- 
a.nple,  and  all  shook  hands  with  Stuart,  in  token  of  friendship. 
They  now  explained  their  errand.  They  were  a  war  party  of 
Arapahay  braves.  Their  village  lay  on  a  stream  several  days' 
journey  to  the  eastward.  It  had  been  attacked  and  ravaged 
during  their  absence,  by  a  band  of  Crows,  who  had  carried  off 
several  of  their  women  and  most  of  their  horses.  They  were  in 
quest  of  vengeance.  For  sixteen  days  they  had  been  tracking 
the  Crows  about  the  mountains,  but  had  not  yet  come  upon 
them.  In  the  meantime  they  had  met  with  scarcely  any  game, 
and  were  half  famished.  About  two  days  previously,  they 
had  heard  the  report  of  firearms  among  the  mountains,  and  on 
searching  in  the  direction  of  the  sound,  had  come  to  a  place 
where  a  deer  had  been  killed.  They  had  immediately  put 
themselves  upon  the  track  of  the  hunters,  and  by  following  it 
up,  had  arrived  at  the  cabin. 

Mr.  Stuart  now  invited  the  chief  and  another,  who  appeared 
to  be  his  lieutenant,  into  the  hut,  but  made  signs  that  no  one 
else  was  to  enter.  The  rest  halted  at  the  door ;  others  came 
straggling  up,  until  the  whole  party,  to  the  number  of  twenty- 
three,  were  gathered  before  the  hut.  They  were  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows,  tomahawks,  and  scalping  knives,  and  some 
few  with  guns.  All  were  painted  and  dressed  for  war,  and 
had  a  wild  and  fierce  appearance.  Mr.  Miller  recognized 
among  them  some  of  the  very  fellows  who  had  robbed  him  in 
the  preceding  year ;  and  put  his  comrades  upon  their  guard. 
Every  man  stood  ready  to  resist  the  first  act  of  hostility; 
the  savages,  however,  conducted  themselves  peaceably,  and 
showed  none  of  that  swaggering  arrogance  which  a  war  party 
is  apt  to  assume. 

On  entering  the  hut  the  chief  and  his  lieutenant  cast  a  wist 
ful  look  at  the  rafters,  laden  with  venison  and  buffalo  meat. 
Mr.  Stuart  made  a  merit  of  necessity,  and  invited  them  to  help 
themselves.  They  did  not  wait  to  be  pressed.  The  rafters 


ASTORIA.  317 


were  soon  eased  of  their  vo^tien-,  -z-cnissn-and  beef  were  passed 
out  to  the  crew  before  the  door,  and  a  scene  of  gormandizing 
commenced,  of  which  few  can  have  an  idea,  who  have  not 
witnessed  the  gastronomic  powers  of  an  Indian,  after  an  in 
terval  of  fasting.  This  was  kept  up  throughout  the  day;  they 
paused  now  and  then,  it  is  true,  for  a  brief  interval,  but  only 
to  return  to  the  charge  with  renewed  ardor.  The  chief  and 
the  lieutenant  surpassed  all  the  rest  in  the  vigor  and  persever 
ance  of  their  attacks  ;  as  if,  from  their  station,  they  were 
bound  to  signalize  themselves  in  all  onslaughts.  Mr.  Stuart 
kept  them  well  supplied  with  choice  bits,  for  it  was  his  policy 
to  overfeed  them,  and  keep  them  from  leaving  the  hut,  where 
they  served  as  hostages  for  the  good  conduct  of  their  followers. 
Once,  only,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  did  the  chief  sally  forth. 
Mr.  Stuart  and  one  of  his  men  accompanied  him,  armed  with 
their  rifles,  bujfc  without  betraying  any  distrust.  The  chieftain 
soon  returned,  and  renewed  his  attack  upon  the  larder.  In  a 
word,  he  and  his  worthy  coadjutor,  the  lieutenant,  ate  until 
they  were  both  stupefied. 

Toward  the  evening  the  Indians  made  their  preparations  for 
the  night  according  to  the  practice  of  war  parties.  Those  out 
side  of  the  hut  threw  up  two  breastworks,  into  which  they  re 
tired  at  a  tolerably  early  hour,  and  slept  like  overfed  hounds. 
As  to  the  chief  and  his  lieutenant,  they  passed  the  night  in  the 
hut,  in  the  course  of  which,  they,  two  or  three  tim  3s,  got  up  to 
eat.  The  travellers  took  turns,  one  at  a  time,  to  mount  guard 
until  the  morning. 

Scarce  had  the  day  dawned,  when  the  gormandizing  was  re 
newed  by  the  whole  band,  and  carried  on  with  surprising  vigor 
until  ten  o'clock,  when  all  prepared  to  depart.  They  had  six 
days'  journey  yet  to  make,  they  said,  before  they  should  come 
up  with  the  Crows,  who  they  understood  were  encamped  on  a 
river  to  the  northward.  Their  way  lay  through  a  hungry 
country  where  there  was  no  game;  they  would,  moreover, 
have  but  little  time  to  hunt;  they,  therefore,  craved  a  small 
supply  of  provisions  for  their  journey.  Mr.  Stuart  again  in 
vited  them  to  help  themselves.  They  did  so  with  keen  fore 
thought,  loading  themselves  with  the  choicest  parts  of  the 
meat,  and  leaving  the  late  plenteous  larder  far  gone  in  a  con 
sumption.  Their  next  request  was  for  a  supply  of  ammunition, 
having  guns,  but  no  powder  and  ball.  "  They  promised  to  pay 
magnificently  out  of  the  spoils  of  their  foray.  "We  are  poor 
now,"  said  they,  "and  are  obliged  to  go  on  foot,  but  we  shall 


318  ASTORIA. 

soon  come  back  ladei*  with  booty,  -:^^d  an  mounted  un: horse 
back,  with  scalps  hanging  at  our  bridles.  We  will  then  give 
each  of  you  a  horse  to  keep  you  from  being  tired  on  your 
journey." 

* '  Well, "  said  Mr.  Stuart,  ' '  when  you  bring  the  horses,  you 
shall  have  the  ammunition,  but  not  before. "  The  Indians  saw 
by  his  determined  tone,  that  all  further  entreaty  would  be  un 
availing,  so  they  desisted,  with  a  good-humored  laugh,  and 
went  off  exceedingly  well  freighted,  both  within  and  without, 
promising  to  be  back  again  in  the  course  of  a  fortnight. 

No  sooner  were  they  out  of  hearing,  than  the  luckless  travel 
lers  held  another  council.  The  security  of  their  cabin  was  at 
an  end,  and  with  it  all  their  dreams  of  a  quiet  and  cosy  winter. 
They  were  between  two  fires.  On  one  side  were  their  old 
enemies,  the  Crows,  on  the  other  side,  the  Arapahays,  no  less 
dangerous  freebooters.  As  to  the  moderation  of  this  war 
party,  they  considered  it  assumed,  to  put  them  off  their  guard 
against  some  more  favorable  opportunity  for  a  surprisal.  It 
was  determined,  therefore,  not  to  await  their  return,  but  to 
abandon,  with  all  speed,  this  dangerous  neighborhood.  Frore 
the  accounts  of  their  recent  visitors,  they  were  led  to  believe,, 
though  erroneously,  that  they  were  upon  the  Quicourt,  or 
Rapid  River.  They  proposed  now  to  keep  along  it  to  its  con 
fluence  with  the  Missouri;  but,  should  they  be  prevented  by 
the  rigors  of  the  season  from  proceeding  so  far,  at  least  to 
reach  a  part  of  the  river  where  they  might  be  able  to  construct 
canoes  of  greater  strength  and  durability  than  those  of  buffalo 
skins. 

Accordingly,  on  the  13th  of  December,  they  bade  adieu,  with 
many  a  regret,  to  their  comfortable  quarters,  where,  for  five 
weeks,  they  had  been  indulging  the  sweets  of  repose,  of  plenty, 
and  of  fancied  security.  They  were  still  accompanied  by  their 
veteran  pack-horse,  which  the  Arapahays  had  omitted  to  steal, 
either  because  they  intended  to  steal  him  on  their  return,  or 
because  they  thought  him  not  worth  stealing. 


CHAPTER  L. 

THE  interval  of  comfort  and  repose  which  the  party  had  en 
joyed  in  their  wigwam,  rendered  the  renewal  of  their  fatigues 
intolerable  for  the  first  two  or  three  days.  The  snow  lay  deep, 


ASTORIA.  319 

and  was  slightly  frozen  on  the  surface,  but  not  sufficiently  to 
bear  their  weight.  Their  feet  became  sore  by  breaking  through 
the  crust,  and  their  limbs  weary  by  floundering  on  without 
firm  foothold.  So  exhausted  and  dispirited  were  they,  that 
they  began  to  think  it  would  be  better  to  remain  and  run  the 
risk  of  being  killed  by  the  Indians,  than  to  drag  on  thus  pain 
fully,  with  the  probability  of  perishing  by  the  way.  Their 
miserable  horse  fared  no  better  than  themselves,  having  for 
the  first  day  or  two  no  other  fodder  than  the  ends  of  willow 
twigs,  and  the  bark  of  the  cotton-wood  tree. 

They  all,  however,  appeared  to  gain  patience  and  hardihood 
as  they  proceeded,  and  for  fourteen  days  kept  steadily  on, 
making  a  distance  of  about  three  hundred  and  thirty  miles. 
For  some  days  the  range  of  mountains  which  had  been  near 
to  their  wigwam  kept  parallel  to  the  river  at  no  great  distance, 
but  at  length  subsided  into  hills.  Sometimes  they  found  the 
river  bordered  with  alluvial  bottoms,  and  groves  with  cotton- 
wood  and  willows;  sometimes  the  adjacent  country  was  naked 
and  barren.  In  one  place  it  ran  for  a  considerable  distance 
between  rocky  hills  and  promontories  covered  with  cedar  and 
pitch  pines,  and  peopled  with  the  bighorn  and  the  mountain 
deer ;  at  other  places  it  wandered  through  prairies  well  stocked 
with  buffaloes  and  antelopes.  As  they  descended  the  course  of 
the  river,  they  began  to  perceive  the  ash  and  white  oak  here 
and  there  among  the  cotton- wood  and  willow;  and  at  length 
caught  a  sight  of  some  wild  horses  on  the  distant  prairies. 

The  weather  was  various ;  at  one  time  the  snow  lay  deep ; 
then  they  had  a  genial  day  or  two,  with  the  mildness  and 
serenity  of  autumn;  then,  again,  the  frost  was  so  severe  that 
the  river  was  sufficiently  frozen  to  bear  them  upon  the  ice. 

During  the  last  three  days  of  their  fortnight's  travel,  how- 
ever,  the  face  of  the  country  changed.  The  timber  gradually 
diminished,  until  they  could  scarcely  find  fuel  sufficient  for 
culinary  purposes.  The  game  grew  more  and  more  scanty,  and, 
finally,  none  were  to  be  seen  but  a  few  miserable  broken-down, 
buffalo  bulls,  not  worth  killing.  The  snow  lay  fifteen  inches 
deep,  and  made  the  travelling  grievously  painful  and  toilsome. 
At  length,  they  came  to  an  immense  plain,  where  no  vestige  of 
timber  was  to  be  seen ;  nor  a  single  quadruped  to  enliven  the 
desolate  landscape.  Here,  then,  their  hearts  failed  them,  and 
they  held  another  consultation.  The  width  of  the  river,  which 
was  upward  of  a  mile,  its  extreme  shallowness,  the  frequency 
of  quicksands,  and  various  other  characteristics,  had  at  length 


320  ASTORIA. 

made  them  sensible  of  their  errors  with  respect  to  it,  and  they 
now  came  to  the  correct'  conclusion,  that  they  were  on  the 
banks  of  the  Platte  or  Shallow  Eiver.  What  were  they  to  do? 
Pursue  its  course  to  the  Missouri?  To  go  on  at  this  season  of 
the  year  seemed  dangerous  in  the  extreme.  There  was  no 
prospect  of  obtaining  either  food  or  firing.  The  country  was 
destitute  of  trees,  and  though  there  might  be  drift-wood  along 
the  river,  it  lay  too  deep  beneath  the  snow  for  them  to  find  it. 

The  weather  was  threatening  a  change,  and  a  snow-storm  on 
these  boundless  wastes  might  prove  as  fatal  as  a  whirlwind  of 
sand  on  an  Arabian  desert.  After  much  dreary  deliberation, 
it  was  at  length  determined  to  retrace  their  three  last  days1 
journey  of  seventy-seven  miles,  to  a  place  which  they  had  re 
marked  where  there  was  a  sheltering  growth  of  forest  trees, 
and  a  country  abundant  in  game.  Here  they  would  once  more 
set  up  their  winter  quarters,  and  await  the  opening  of  the  navi 
gation  to  launch  themselves  in  canoes. 

Accordingly,  on  the  27th  of  December,  they  faced  about,  re 
traced  their  steps,  and  on  the  30th,  regained  the  part  of  the 
river  in  question.  Here  the  alluvial  bottom  was  from  one  to 
two  miles  wide,  and  thickly  covered  with  a  forest  of  cotton- 
wood  trees ;  while  herds  of  buffalo  were  scattered  about  the 
neighboring  prairie,  several  of  which  soon  fell  beneath  their 
rifles. 

They  encamped  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  in  a  grove  where 
there  were  trees  large  enough  for  canoes.  Here  they  put  up  a 
shed  for  immediate  shelter,  and  immediately  proceeded  to  erect 
a  hut.  New  Year's  day  dawned  when,  as  yet,  but  one  wall  of 
their  cabin  was  completed ;  the  genial  and  jovial  day,  however, 
was  not  permitted  to  pass  uncelebrated,  even  by  this  weather- 
beaten  crew  of  wanderers.  All  work  was  suspended,  except 
that  of  roasting  and  boiling.  The  choicest  of  the  buffalo  meat, 
with  tongues,  and  humps,  and  marrow  bones,  were  devoured 
in  quantities  that  would  astonish  any  one  that  has  not  lived 
among  hunters  or  Indians ;  and  as  an  extra  regale,  having  no 
tobacco  left,  they  cut  up  an  old  tobacco  pouch,  still  redolent 
with  the  potent  herb,  and  smoked  it  in  honor  of  the  day.  Thus 
for  a  time,  in  present  revelry,  however  uncouth,  they  forgot 
all  past  troubles  and  all  anxieties  about  the  future,  and  their 
forlorn  wigwam  echoed  to  the  sound  of  gayety. 

The  next  day  they  resumed  their  labors,  and  by  the  Gth  of 
the  month  it  was  complete.  They  soon  killed  abundance  of 
buffalo,  and  again  laid  in  a  stock  of  winter  provisions. 


ASTORIA.  321 

The  party  were  more  fortunate  in  this  their  second  canton 
ment.  The  winter  passed  away  without  any  Indian  visitors, 
and  the  game  continued  to  be  plenty  in  the  neighborhood. 
They  felled  two  large  trees,  and  shaped  them  into  canoes ;  and, 
as  the  spring  opened,  and  a  thaw  of  several  days'  continuance 
melted  the  ice  in  the  river,  they  made  every  preparation  for 
embarking.  On  the  8th  of  March  they  launched  forth  in  their 
canoes,  but  soon  found  that  the  river  had  not  depth  sufficient 
even  for  such  slender  barks.  It  expanded  into  a  wide  but  ex 
tremely  shallow  stream,  with  many  sand-bars,  and  occasionally 
various  channels.  They  got  one  of  their  canoes  a  few  miles 
down  it,  with  extreme  difficulty,  sometimes  wading  and  drag 
ging  it  over  the  shoals;  at  length  they  had  to  abandon  the 
attempt,  and  to  resume  their  journey  on  foot,  aided  by  their 
faithful  old  pack-horse,  who  had  recruited  strength  during 
the  repose  of  the  winter. 

The  weather  delayed  them  for  a  few  days,  having  suddenly 
become  more  rigorous  than  it  had  been  at  any  time  during  the 
winter ;  but  on  the  20th  of  March  they  were  again  on  their 
journey. 

In  two  days  they  arrived  at  the  vast  naked  prairie,  the  win 
try  aspect  of  which  had  caused  them,  in  December,  to  pause 
and  turn  back.  It  was  nowtclothed  in  the  early  verdure  of 
spring,  and  plentifully  stocked  with  game.  Still,  when  obliged 
to  bivouac  on  its  bare  surface,  without  any  shelter,  and  by  a 
scanty  fire  of  dry  buffalo  dung,  they  found  the  night  blasts 
piercing  cold.  On  one  occasion  a  herd  of  buffalo  straying  near 
their  evening  camp,  they  killed  three  of  them  merely  for  their 
hides,  wherewith  to  make  a  shelter  for  the  night. 

They  continued  on  for  upward  of  a  hundred  miles;  with 
vast  prairies  extending  before  them  as  they  advanced ;  some 
times  diversified  by  undulating  hills,  but  destitute  of  trees. 
In  one  place  they  saw  a  gang  of  sixty-five  wild  horses,  but  as 
to  the  buffaloes,  they  seemed  absolutely  to  cover  the  country. 
Wild  geese  abounded,  and  they  passed  extensive  swamps  that 
were  alive  with  innumerable  flocks  of  water-fowl,  among 
which  were  a  few  swans,  but  an  endless  variety  of  ducks. 

The  river  continued  a  winding  course  to  the  east-northeast, 
nearly  a  mile  in  width,  but  too  shallow  to  float  even  an  empty 
canoe.  The  country  spread  out  into  a  vast  level  plain,  bounded 
by  the  horizon  alone,  excepting  to  the  north,  where  a  line  of 
hills  seemed  like  a  long  promontory,  stretching  into  the  bosom 
of  the  ocean.  The  dreary  sameness  of  the  prairie  wastes  began 


322  ASTOlllA. 

to  grow  extremely  irksome.  The  travellers  longed  for  tho 
sight  of  a  forest  or  grove,  or  single  tree,  to  break  the  level  uni 
formity,  and  began  to  notice  every  object  that  gave  reason  to 
hope  they  were  drawing  toward  the  end  of  this  weary  wilder 
ness.  Thus  the  occurrence  of  a  particular  kind  of  grass  was 
hailed  as  a  proof  that  they  could  not  be  far  from  the  bottoms 
of  the  Missouri;  and  they  were  rejoiced  at  putting  up  several 
prairie  hens,  a  kind  of  grouse  seldom  found  far  in  the  interior. 
In  picking  up  drift-wood  for  fuel,  also,  they  found  on  some 
pieces  the  mark  of  an  axe,  which  caused  much  speculation  as 
to  the  time  when  and  the  persons  by  whom  the  trees  had  been 
felled.  Thus  they  went  on  like  sailors  at  sea,  who  perceive  in 
every  floating  weed  and  wandering  bird,  harbingers  of  the 
wished-f  or  land. 

-By  the  close  of  the  month  the  weather  became  very  mild, 
and,  heavily  burdened  as  they  were,  they  found  the  noontide 
temperature  uncomfortably  warm.  On  the  30th,  they  came  to 
three  deserted  hunting  camps,  either  of  Pawnees  or  Ottoes, 
about  which  were  buffalo  skulls  in  all  directions;  and  the 
frames  on  which  the  hides  had  been  stretched  and  cured. 
They  had  apparently  been  occupied  the  preceding  autumn. 

For  several  days  they  kept  patiently  on,  watching  every 
sign  that  might  give  them  an  idea  as  to  where  they  were,  and 
how  near  to  the  banks  of  the  Missouri. 

Though  there  were  numerous  traces  of  hunting  parties  ard 
encampments,  they  were  not  of  recent  date.  The  country 
seemed  deserted.  The  only  human  beings  they  met  with  were 
three  Pawnee  squaws,  in  a  hut  in  the  midst  of  a  deserted 
camp.  Their  people  had  all  gone  to  the  south,  in  pursuit  of 
the  buffalo,  and  had  left  these  poor  women  behind,  being  too 
sick  and  infirm  to  travel. 

It  is  a  common  practice  with  the  Pawnees,  and  probably 
with  other  roving  tribes,  when  departing  on  a  distant  expedi 
tion,  which  will  not  admit  of  incumbrance  or  delay,  to  leave 
their  aged  and  infirm  with  a  supply  of  provisions  sufficient  for 
a  temporary  subsistence.  When  this  is  exhausted  they  must 
perish;  though  sometimes  their  sufferings  are  abridged  by 
hostile  prowlers  who  may  visit  the  deserted  camp. 

The  poor  squaws  in  question  expected  some  such  fate  at  the 
hands  of  the  white  strangers,  and  though  the  latter  accosted 
them  in  the  kindest  manner,  and  made  them  presents  of  dried 
buffalo  meat,  it  was  impossible  to  soothe  their  alarm  or  get 
any  information  from  them. 


ASTORIA.  323 

The  first  landmark  by  which  the  travellers  were  enabled  to 
conjecture  their  position  with  any  degree  of  confidence,  was 
an  island  about  seventy  miles  in  length,  which  they  presumed 
to  be  Grand  Isle.  If  so,  they  were  within  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles  of  the  Missouri.  They  kept  on,  therefore,  with 
renewed  spirit,  and  at  the  end  of  three  days  met  with  an  Otto 
Indian,  by  whom  they  were  confirmed  in  their  conjecture. 
They  learnt  at  the  same  time  another  piece  of  information,  of 
an  uncomfortable  nature.  According  to  his  account,  there 
was  war  between  the  United  States  and  England,  and  in  fact 
it  had  existed  for  a  whole  year,  during  which  time  they  had 
been  beyond  the  reach  of  all  knowledge  of  the  aifairs  of  the 
civilized  world. 

The  Otto  conducted  the  travellers  to  his  village,  situated  a 
short  distance  from  the  banks  of  the  Platte.  Here  they  were 
delighted  to  meet  with  two  white  men,  Messrs.  Dornin  and  Eoi, 
Indian  traders  recently  from  St.  Louis.  Of  these  they  had  a 
thousand  inquiries  to  make  concerning  all  affairs,  foreign  and 
domestic,  during  their  year  of  sepulture  in  the  wilderness ;  and 
especially  about  the  events  of  the  existing  war. 

They  now  prepared  to  abandon  their  weary  travel  by  land, 
and  to  embark  upon  the  water.  A  bargain  was  made  with 
Mr.  Dornin,  who  engaged  to  furnish  them  with  a  canoe  and 
provisions  for  the  voyage,  in  exchange  for  their  venerable  and 
well-tried  fellow-traveller,  the  old  Snake  horse. 

Accordingly,  in  a  couple  of  days,  the  Indians  employed  by 
that  gentleman  constructed  for  them  a  canoe  twenty  feet  long, 
four  feet  wide,  and  eighteen  inches  deep.  The  frame  was  of 
poles  and  willow  twigs,  on  which  were  stretched  five  elk  and 
buffalo  hides,  sewed  together  with  sinews,  and  the  seams 
payed  with  unctuous  mud.  In  this  they  embarked  at  an  early 
hour  on  the  16th  of  April,  and  drifted  down  ten  miles  with  the 
stream,  when  the  wind  being  high  they  encamped,  and  set  to 
work  to  make  oars,  which  they  had  not  been  able  to  procure 
at  the  Indian  village. 

Once  more  afloat,  they  went  merrily  down  the  stream,  and 
after  making  thirty-five  miles,  emerged  into  the  broad  turbid 
current  of  the  Missouri.  Here  they  were  borne  along  briskly 
by  the  rapid  stream,  though,  by  the  time  their  fragile  bark 
had  floated  a  couple  of  hundred  miles,  its  frame  began  to  show 
the  effects  of  the  voyage.  Luckily  they  came  to  the  deserted 
wintering  place  of  some  hunting  party,  where  they  found  two 
old  wooden  canoes.  Taking  possession  of  the  largest,  they 


324  ASTORIA. 

again  committed  themselves  to  the  current,  and  after  dropping 
down  fifty-five  miles  further,  arrived  safely  at  Fort  Osage. 

Here  they  found  Lieutenant  Brownson  still  in  command;  the 
officer  who  had  given  the  expedition  a  hospitable  reception  on 
its  way  up  the  river,  eighteen  months  previously.  He  re 
ceived  this  remnant  of  the  party  with  a  cordial  welcome,  and 
endeavored  in  every  way  to  promote  their  comfort  and  enjoy 
ment  during  their  sojourn  at  the  fort.  The  greatest  luxury 
they  met  with  on  their  return  to  the  abode  of  civilized  man, 
was  bread,  not  having  tasted  any  for  nearly  a  year. 

Their  stay  at  Fort  Osage  was  but  short.  On  re-embarking 
they  were  furnished  with  an  ample  supply  of  provisions  by  the 
kindness  of  Lieutenant  Brownson,  and  performed  the  rest  of 
their  voyage  without  adverse  circumstance.  On  the  30th  of 
April  they  arrived  in  perfect  health  and  fine  spirits  at  St. 
Louis,  having  been  ten  months  in  performing  this  perilous  ex 
pedition  from  Astoria.  Their  return  caused  quite  a  sensation 
at  the  place,  bringing  the  first  intelligence  of  the  fortune  of  Mr. 
Hunt  and  his  party  in  their  adventurous  route  across  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  of  the  new  establishment  on  the  shores 
of  the  Pacific. 


CHAPTER  LT. 

IT  is  now  necessary,  in  linking  together  the  parts  of  this  ex 
cursive  narrative,  that  we  notice  the  proceedings  of  Mr.  Astor, 
in  support  of  his  great  undertaking.  His  project  with  respect 
to  the  Russian  establishments  along  the  northwest  coast  had 
been  diligently  prosecuted.  The  agent  sent  by  him  to  St. 
Petersburgh,  to  negotiate  in  his  name  as  president  of  the 
American  Fur  Company,  had,  under  sanction  of  the  Russian 
Government,  made  a  provisional  agreement  with  the  Russian 
company. 

By  this  agreement,  which  was  ratified  by  Mr.  Astor  in  1813, 
the  two  companies  bound  themselves  not  to  interfere  with 
each  other's  trading  and  hunting  grounds,  nor  to  furnish  arms 
and  ammunition  to  the  Indians.  They  were  to  act  in  concert, 
also,  against  all  interlopers,  and  to  succor  each  other  in  case  of 
danger.  The  American  company  was  to  have  the  exclusive 
right  of  supplying  the  Russian  posts  with  goods  and  neces- 


ASTORIA.  325 

saries,  receiving  peltries  in  payment  at  stated  prices.  They 
were  also,  if  so  requested  by  the  Russian  governor,  to  convey 
the  furs  of  the  Russian  company  to  Canton,  sell  them  on  com 
mission,  and  bring  back  the  proceeds,  at  such  freight  as  might 
be  agreed  on  at  the  time.  This  agreement  was  to  continue  in 
operation  four  years,  and  to  be  renewable  for  a  similar  term, 
unless  some  unforeseen  contingency  should  render  a  modifica 
tion  necessary. 

It  was  calculated  to  be  of  great  service  to  the  infant  estab 
lishment  at  Astoria;  dispelling  the  fears  of  hostile  rivalry  on 
the  part  of  the  foreign  companies  in  its  neighborhood,  and  giv 
ing  a  formidable  blow  to  the  irregular  trade  along  the  coast. 
It  was  also  the  intention  of  Mr.  Astor  to  have  coasting  vessels 
of  his  own,  at  Astoria,  of  small  tonnage  and  draft  of  water, 
fitted  for  coasting  service.  These  having  a  place  of  shelter 
and  deposit,  could  ply  about  the  coast  in  short  voyages,  in 
favorable  weather,  and  would  have  vast  advantage  over 
chance  ships,  which  must  make  long  voyages,  maintain  numer 
ous  crews,  and  could  only  approach  the  coast  at  certain  seasons 
of  the  year.  He  hoped,  therefore,  gradually  to  make  Astoria 
the  great  emporium  of  the  American  fur  trade  in  the  Pacific, 
and  the  nucleus  of  a  powerful  American  state.  Unfortunately 
for  these  sanguine  anticipations,  before  Mr.  Astor  had  ratified 
the  agreement,  as  above  stated,  war  broke  out  between  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain.  He  perceived  at  once  the 
peril  of  the  case.  The  harbor  of  New  York  would  doubtless 
be  blockaded,  and  the  departure  of  the  annual  supply  ship  in 
the  autumn  prevented ;  or,  if  she  should  succeed  in  getting  out 
to  sea,  she  might  be  captured  on  her  voyage. 

In  this  emergency,  he  wrote  to  Captain  Sowle,  commander 
of  the  Beaver.  The  letter,  which  was  addressed  to  him  at  Can 
ton,  directed  him  to  proceed  to  the  factory  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  with  such  articles  as  the  establishment  might  need ; 
and  to  remain  there,  subject  to  the  orders  of  Mr.  Hunt,  should 
that  gentleman  be  in  command  there. 

The  war  continued,  no  tidings  had  yet  been  received  from 
Astoria;  the  dispatches  having  been  delayed  by  the  misadven 
ture  of  Mr.  Reed  at  the  falls  of  the  Columbia,  and  the  rnhors- 
ing  of  Mr.  Stuart  by  the  Crows  among  the  mountains.  A  pain 
ful  uncertainty,  also,  prevailed  about  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party. 
Nothing  had  been  heard  of  them  since  their  departure  from 
the  Arickara  village;  Lisa,  who  parted  them  there,  had  pre 
dicted  their  destruction ;  and  some  of  the  traders  of  the  North- 


326  ASTORIA. 

west  Company  had  actually  spread  a  rumor  of  their  having 
been  cut  off  by  the  Indians. 

It  was  a  hard  trial  of  the  courage  and  means  of  an  individ 
ual,  to  have  to  fit  out  another  costly  expedition,  where  so 
much  had  already  been  expended,  so  much  uncertainty  pre 
vailed,  and  where  the  risk  of  loss  was  so  greatly  enhanced,  that 
no  insurance  could  be  effected. 

In  spite  of  all  these  discouragements,  Mr.  Astor  determined 
to  send  another  ship  to  the  relief  of  the  settlement.  He 
selected  for  this  purpose  a  vessel  called  the  Lark,  remarkable 
for  her  fast  sailing.  The  disordered  state  of  the  times,  how 
ever,  caused  such  a  delay,  that  February  arrived,  while  the 
vessel  was  yet  lingering  in  port. 

At  this  juncture  Mr.  Astor  learnt  that  the  Northwest  Com 
pany  were  preparing  to  send  out  an  armed  ship  of  twenty 
guns,  called  the  Isaac  Todd,  to  form  an  establishment  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia.  These  tidings  gave  him  great  uneasi 
ness.  A  considerable  proportion  of  the  persons  in  his  employ 
were  Scotchmen  and  Canadians,  and  several  of  them  had  been 
in  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company.  Should  Mr.  Hunt 
have  failed  to  arrive  at  Astoria,  the  whole  establishment  would 
be  under  the  control  of  Mr.  M'Dougal,  of  whose  fidelity  he  had 
received  very  disparaging  accounts  from  Captain  Thorn.  The 
British  Government,  also,  might  deem  it  worth  while  to  send  a 
force  against  the  establishment,  having  been  urged  to  do  so 
some  time  previously  by  the  Northwest  Company. 

Under  all  these  circumstances,  Mr.  Astor  wrote  to  Mr.  Mon 
roe,  then  Secretary  of  State,  requesting  protection  from  the 
Government  of  the  United  States.  He  represented  the  import 
ance  of  this  settlement,  in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  and  the 
shelter  it  might  afford  to  the  American  vessels  in  those  seas. 
All  he  asked  was,  that  the  American  Government  would  throw 
forty  or  fifty  men  into  the  fort  at  his  establishment,  which 
would  be  sufficient  for  its  defence,  until  he  could  send  rein 
forcements  overland. 

He  waited  in  vain  for  a  reply  to  his  letter,  the  Government, 
no  doubt,  being  engrossed  at  the  time,  by  an  overwhelming 
crowd  of  affairs.  The  month  of  March  arrived,  and  the  Lark 
was  ordered  by  Mr.  Astor  to  put  to  sea.  The  officer  who  was 
to  command  her  shrunk  from  his  engagement,  and  in  the  ex 
igency  of  the  moment  she  was  given  in  charge  to  Mr.  North 
rop,  the  mate.  Mr.  Nicholas  G.  Ogden,  a  gentlemen  on  whose 
talents  and  integrity  the  highest  reliance  could  be  placed,  sailed 


ASTOMIA.  327 

as  supercargo.  The  Lark  put  to  sea  in  the  beginning  of  March, 
1813. 

By  this  opportunity  Mr.  Astor  wrote  to  Mr.  Hunt,  as  head 
of  the  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  for  he 
would  not  allow  himself  to  doubt  of  his  welfare.  "I  always 
think  you  are  well,"  said  he,  "and  that  I  shall  see  you  again, 
which  heaven,  I  hope,  will  grant." 

He  warned  him  to  be  on  his  guard  against  any  attempts  to 
surprise  the  post ;  suggesting  the  probability  of  armed  hostility 
on  the  part  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  expressing  his  in 
dignation  at  the  ungrateful  returns  made  by  that  association 
for  his  frank  and  open  conduct,  and  advantageous  overtures. 
"  Were  I  on  the  spot,"  said  he,  "and  had  the  management  of 
affairs,  I  would  defy  them  all;  but,  as  it  is,  everything  de 
pends  upon  you  and  your  friends  about  you.  Our  enterprise 
is  grand,  and  deserves  success,  and  I  hope  in  God  it  will  meet 
it.  If  my  object  was  merely  gain  of  money,  I  should  say, 
think  whether  it  is  best  to  save  what  we  can,  and  abandon  the 
place;  but  the  very  idea  is  like  a  dagger  to  my  heart."  This  ex 
tract  is  sufficient  to  show  the  spirit  and  the  views  which  actu 
ated  Mr.  Astor  in  this  great  undertaking. 

Week  after  week  and  month  after  month  elapsed,  without 
anything  to  dispel  the  painful  incertitude  that  hung  over  every 
part  of  this  enterprise.  Though  a  man  of  resolute  spirit,  and 
not  easily  cast  down,  the  dangers  impending  over  this  darling 
scheme  of  his  ambition,  had  a  gradual  effect  upon  the  spirits  of 
Mr.  Astor.  He  was  sitting  one  gloomy  evening  by  his  window 
revolving  over  the  loss  of  the  Tonquin,  and'  the  fate  of  her  un 
fortunate  crew,  and  fearing  that  some  equally  tragical  calami 
ty  might  have  befallen  the  adventurers  across  the  mountains, 
when  the  evening  newspaper  was  brought  to  him.  The  first 
paragraph  that  caught  his  eye,  announced  the  arrival  of  Mr. 
Stuart  and  his  party  at  St.  Louis,  with  intelligence  that  Mr. 
Hunt  and  his  companions  had  effected  their  perilous  expedi 
tion  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  This  was  a  gleam  of  sun 
shine  that  for  a  time  dispelled  every  cloud,  and  he  no^r  looked 
forward  with  sanguine  hope  to  the  accomplishment  of  all  his 
plans. 


828  ASTORIA. 


CHAPTEE  LII. 

THE  course  of  our  narrative  now  takes  us  back  to  the  regions 
beyond  the  mountains,  to  dispose  of  the  parties  that  set  out 
from  Astoria  in  company  with  Mr.  Robert  Stuart,  and  whom 
lie  left  on  the  banks  of  the  Wallah- Wallah.  Those  parties  like 
wise  separated  from  each  other  shortly  after  his  departure, 
proceeding  to  their  respective  destinations,  but  agreeing  to 
meet  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wallah-Wallah,  about  the  beginning 
of  June  in  the  following  year,  with  such  peltries  as  they  should 
have  collected  in  the  interior,  so  as  to  convoy  each  other 
through  the  dangerous  passes  of  the  Columbia. 

Mr.  David  Stuart,  one  of  the  partners,  proceeded  with  his 
men  to  the  post  already  established  by  him  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Oakinagan;  having  furnished  this  with  goods  and  ammuni 
tion,  he  proceeded  three  hundred  miles  up  that  river,  where  he 
established  another  post  in  a  good  trading  neighborhood. 

Mr.  Clarke,  another  partner,  conducted  his  little  band  up 
Lewis  River  to  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  coming  in  from 
the  north,  to  which  the  Canadians  gave  the  name  of  the  Pav- 
ion.  Here  he  found  a  village  or  encampment  of  forty  huts  or 
tents,  covered  with  mats,  and  inhabited  by  Nez  Perces,  or 
pierced-nose  Indians,  as  they  are  called  by  the  traders;  but 
Chipunnish,  as  they  are  called  by  themselves.  They  are  a 
hardy,  laborious,  and  somewhat  knavish  race,  who  lead  a  pre 
carious  life,  fishing  and  digging  roots  during  the  summer  and 
autumn,  hunting  the  deer  on  snow  shoes  during  the  winter, 
and  traversing  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  the  spring,  to  trade  for 
buffalo  skins  with  the  hunting  tribes  of  the  Missouri.  In  these 
migrations  they  are  liable  to  be  waylaid  and  attacked  by  the 
Black  feet,  and  other  warlike  and  predatory  tribes,  and  driven 
back  across  the  mountains  with  the  loss  of  their  horses,  and  of 
many  of  their  comrades. 

A  life  of  this  unsettled  and  precarious  kind  is  apt  to  render 
men  selfish,  and  such  Mr.  Clarke  found  the  inhabitants  of  this 
village,  who  were  deficient  in  the  usual  hospitality  of  Indians; 
parting  with  everything  with  extreme  reluctance,  and  showing 
no  sensibility  to  any  act  of  kindness.  At  the  time  of  his  ar 
rival  they  were  all  occupied  in  catching  and  curing  salmon. 


ASTORIA.       \  ./     329 

The  men  were  stout,  robust,  active,  and  good  looking,  and  the 
women  handsomer  than  those  of  the  tribes  nearer  the  coast. 

It  was  the  plan  of  Mr.  Clarke  to  lay  up  his  boats  here,  and 
proceed  by  land  to  his  place  of  destination,  which  was  among 
the  Spokan  tribe  of  Indians,  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
distant.  He  accordingly  endeavored  to  purchase  horses  for 
the  journey,  but  in  this  he  had  to  contend  with  the  sordid  dis 
position  of  these  people.  They  asked  high  prices  for  their 
horses,  and  were  so  difficult  to  deal  with,  that  Mr.  Clarke  was 
detained  seven  days  among  them  before  he  could  procure  a 
sufficient  number.  During  that  time  he  was  annoyed  by  re 
peated  pilf erings,  for  which  he  could  get  no  redress.  The  chief 
promised  to  recover  the  stolen  articles ;  but  failed  to  do  so,  al 
leging  that  the  thieves  belonged  to  a  distant  tribe,  and  had 
made  off  with  their  booty.  With  ,this  excuse  Mr.  Clarke  was 
fain  to  content  himself,  though  he  laid  up  in  his  heart  a  bitter 
grudge  against  the  whole  pierced-nose  race  which  as  will  be 
found  he  took  occasion  subsequently  to  gratify  in  a  signal 
manner. 

Having  made  arrangements  for  his  departure,  Mr.  Clarke 
laid  up  his  barge  and  canoes  in  a  sheltered  place,  on  the  banks 
of  a  small  bay,  overgrown  with  shrftbs  and  willows,  confiding 
them  to  the  care  of  the  Nez  Perce  chief,  who,  on  being  prom 
ised  an  ample  compensation,  engaged  to  have  a  guardian  eye 
mpon  them ;  then  mounting  his  steed,  and  putting  himself  at 
the  head  of  his  little  caravan,  he  shook  the  dust  off  his  feet  as 
he  turned  his  back  upon  this  village  of  rogues  and  hard  deal 
ers.  We  shall  not  follow  him  minutely  in  his  journey ;  which 
lay  at  times  over  steep  and  rocky  hills,  and  among  crags  and 
precipices ;  at  other  times  over  vast  naked  and  sunburnt  plains, 
abounding  with  rattlesnakes,  in  traversing  which,  both  men  and 
horses  suffered  intolerably  from  heat  and  thirst.  The  place  on 
which  he  fixed  for  a  trading  post,  was  a  fine  point  of  land,  at 
the  junction  of  the  Pointed  Heart  and  Spokan  Rivers.  His  es 
tablishment  was  intended  to  compete  with  a  trading  post  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  situated  at  no  great  distance,  and  to 
rival  it  in  the  trade  with  the  Spokan  Indians ;  as  well  as  with 
the  Cootonais  and  Flatheads.  In  this  neighborhood  we  shall 
leave  him  for  the  present. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie,  who  conducted  the  third  party  from  the  Wal 
lah-Wallah,  navigated  for  several  days  up  the  south  branch  of 
the  Columbia,  named  the  Camoenum  by  the  natives,  but  com 
monly  called  Lewis  River,  in  honor  of  the  first  explorer.  Wan- 


330  ASTORIA. 

dering  bands  of  various  tribes  were  seen  along  this  river,  trav 
elling  in  various  directions;  for  the  Indians  generally  are 
restless,  roving  beings,  continually  intent  on  enterprises  of 
war,  traffic,  and  hunting.  Some  of  these  people  were  driving 
large  gangs  of  horses,  as  if  to  a  distant  market.  Having  ar 
rived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Shahaptan,  he  ascended  some  dis 
tance  up  that  river,  and  established  his  trading  post  upon  its 
banks.  This  appeared  to  be  a  great  thoroughfare  for  the  tribes 
from  the  neighborhood  of  the  falls  of  the  Columbia,  in  their 
expeditions  to  make  war  upon  the  tribes  of  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains  ;  to  hunt  buffalo  on  the  plains  beyond,  or  to  traffic  for 
roots  and  buffalo  robes.  It  was  the  season  of  migration,  and 
the  Indians  from  various  distant  parts  were  passing  and  re- 
passing  in  great  numbers. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie  now  detached  a  small  band,  under  the  con 
duct  of  Mr.  John  Reed,  to  visit  the  caches  made  by  Mr.  Hunt 
at  the  Caldron  Linn,  and  to  bring  the  contents  to  his  post ;  as 
he  depended  in  some  measure  on  them  for  his  supplies  of  goods 
and  ammunition.  They  had  not  been  gone  a  week  when  two 
Indians  arrived  of  the  Pallatapalla  tribe,  who  live  upon  a  river 
of  the  came  name.  These  communicated  the  unwelcome  in 
telligence  that  the  caches  had  been  robbed.  They  said  that 
some  of  their  tribe  had,  in  the  course  of  the  preceding  spring, 
been  across  the  mountains  which  separated  them  from  Snake 
River,  and  had  traded  horses  with  the  Snakes  in  exchange  for 
blankets,  robes,  and  goods  of  various  descriptions.  These  arti 
cles  the  Snakes  had  procured  from  caches  to  which  they  were 
guided  by  some  white  men  who  resided  among  them,  and  who 
afterward  accompanied  them  across  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
This  intelligence  was  extremely  perplexing  to  Mr.  M'Kenzie, 
but  the  truth  of  part  of  it  was  confirmed  by  the  two  Indians, 
who  brought  them  an  English  saddle  and  bridle,  which  was 
recognized  as  having  belonged  to  Mr.  Crooks.  The  perfidy  of 
the  white  men  who  revealed  the  secret  of  the  caches,  was, 
however,  perfectly  inexplicable.  We  shall  presently  account 
for  it  in  narrating  the  expedition  of  Mr.  Reed. 

That  worthy  Hibernian  proceeded  on  his  mission  with  his 
usual  alacrity.  His  forlorn  travels  of  the  preceding  winter 
had  made  him  acquainted  with  the  topography  of  the  country, 
and  he  reached  Snake  River  without  any  material  difficulty. 
Here  in  an  encampment  of  the  natives,  he  met  with  six  white 
men,  wanderers  from  the  main  expedition  of  Mr.  Hunt,  who, 
after  having  had  their  respective  shares  of  adventures  and 


ASTORIA.  331 

mishaps,  had  fortunately  come  together  at  this  place.  Three 
of  these  men  were  Turcotte,  La  Chapelle,  and  Francis  Landry ; 
the  three  Canadian  voyageurs,  who,  it  may  be  recollected,  had 
left  Mr.  Crooks  in  February,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Snake 
River,  being  dismayed  by  the  increasing  hardships  of  the  jour 
ney,  and  fearful  of  perishing  of  hunger.  They  had  returned 
to  a  Snake  encampment,  where  they  passed  the  residue  of  the 
winter. 

Early  in  the  spring,  being  utterly  destitute,  and  in  great  ex 
tremity,  and  having  worn  out  the  hospitality  of  the  Snakes, 
they  determined  to  avail  themselves  of  the  buried  treasures 
within .  their  knowledge.  They  accordingly  informed  the 
Snake  chieftains  that  they  knew  where  a  great  quantity  of 
goods  had  been  left  in  caches,  enough  to  enrich  the  whole 
tribe;  and  offered  to  conduct  them  to  the  place,  on  condi 
tion  of  being  rewarded  with  horses  and  provisions.  The  chief 
tains  pledged  their  faith  and  honor  as  great  men  and  Snakes, 
and  the  three  Canadians  conducted  them  to  the  place  of  de 
posit  at  the  Caldron.  Linn.  This  is  the  way  that  the  savages 
got  knowledge  of  the  caches,  and  not  by  following  the  tracks 
of  wolves,  as  Mr.  Stuart  had  supposed.  Never  did  money  dig 
gers  turn  up  a  miser's  hoard  with  more  eager  delight  than  did 
the  savages  lay  open  the  treasures  of  the  caches.  Blankets 
and  robes;  brass  trinkets  and  blue  beads  were  drawn  forth 
with  chuckling  exultation,  and  long  strips  of  scarlet  cloth  pro 
duced  yells  of  ecstasy. 

The  rifling  of  the  caches  effected  a  change  in  the  fortunes 
and  deportment  of  the  whole  party.  The  Snakes  were  better 
equipped  and  clad  than  ever  were  Snakes  before,  and  the  three 
Canadians,  suddenly  finding  themselves  with  horse  to  ride  and 
weapon  to  wear,  were,  like  beggars  on  horseback,  ready  to 
ride  on  any  wild  scamper.  An  opportunity  soon  presented. 
The  Snakes  determined  on  a  hunting  match  on  the  buffalo 
prairies,  to  lay  in  a  supply  of  beef,  that  they  might  live  in 
plenty,  as  became  men  of  their  improved  condition.  The 
three  newly  mounted  cavaliers  must  fain  accompany  them. 
They  all  traversed  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  safety,  descended 
to  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri,  and  made  great  havoc 
among  the  buffaloes. 

Their  hunting  camp  was  full  of  meat;  they  were  gorging 
themselves,  like  true  Indians,  with  present  plenty,  and  dry 
ing  and  jerking  great  quantities  for  a  winter's  supply.  In  the 
midst  of  their  revelry  and  good  cheer,  the  camp  was  surprised 


382  ASTORIA. 

by  the  Blackfeet.  Several  of  the  Snakes  were  slain  on  the 
spot ;  the  residue,  with  th^ir  three  Canadian  allies,  fled  to  the 
mountains,  stripped  of  horses,  buffalo  meat,  everything;  and 
made  their  way  back  to  the  old  encampment  on  Snake  River, 
poorer  than  ever,  but  esteeming  themselves  fortunate  in  hav 
ing  escaped  with  their  lives.  They  had  not  been  long  there 
when  the  Canadians  were  cheered  by  the  sight  of  a  companion 
in  misfortune,  Dubreuil,  the  poor  voyageur  who  had  left  Mr. 
Crooks  in  March,  being  too  much  exhausted  to  keep  on  with 
him.  Not  long  afterward,  three  other  straggling  members  of 
the  main  expedition  made  their  appearance.  These  were  Car 
son,  St.  Michael,  and  Pierre  Delaunay,  three  of  the  trappers, 
who,  in  company  with  Pierre  Detaye,  had  been  left  among  the 
mountains  by  Mr.  Hunt,  to  trap  beaver,  in  the  preceding 
month  of  September.  They  had  departed  from  the  main 
body  well  armed  and  provided,  with  horses  to  ride,  and 
horses  to  carry  the  peltries  they  were  to  collect.  They  came 
wandering  into  the  Snake  camp  as  ragged  and  destitute  as 
their  predecessors.  It  appears  that  they  had  finished  their 
trapping,  and  were  making  their  way  in  the  spring  to  the 
Missouri,  when  they  were  met  and  attacked  by  a  powerful 
band  of  the  all-pervading  Crows.  They  made  a  desperate  re 
sistance,  and  killed  seven  of  the  savages,  but  were  overpow-  --. 
ered  by  numbers.  Pierre  Detaye  was  slain,  the  rest  were 
robbed  of  horses  and  effects,  and  obliged  to  turn  back,  when 
they  fell  in  with  their  old  companions,  as  already  mentioned. 

We  should  observe,  that  at  the  heels  of  Pierre  Delaunay 
came  draggling  an  Indian  wife,  whom  he  had  picked  up  in  his 
wanderings ;  having  grown  weary  of  celibacy  among  the  sav 
ages. 

The  whole  seven  of  this  forlorn  fraternity  of  adventurers, 
thus  accidentally  congregated  on  the  banks  of  Snake  River, 
were  making  arrangements  once  more  to  cross  the  mountains, 
when  some  Indian  scouts  brought  word  of  the  approach  of  the 
little  band  headed  by  John  Reed. 

The  latter,  having  heard  the  several  stories  of  these  wander 
ers,  took  them  all  into  his  party,  and  set  out  for  the  Caldron 
Linn,  to  clear  out  two  or  three  of  the  caches  which  had  not 
been  revealed  to  the  Indians. 

At  that  place  he  met  with  Robinson,  the  Kentucky  veteran, 
who  with  his  two  comrades,  Rezner  and  Hoback,  had  remained 
there  when  Mr.  Stuart  went  on.  This  adventurous  trio  had 
been  trapping  higher  up  the  river,  but  Robinson  had  come 


ASTORIA.  333 

down  in  a  canoe,  to  await  the  expected  arrival  of  the  party, 
and  obtain  horses  and  equipments.  He  told  Reed  the  story  of 
the  robbery  of  his  party  by  the  Arapahays,  but  it  differed,  in 
some  particulars,  from  the  account  given  by  him  to  Mr.  Stuart. 
In  that  he  had  represented  Cass  as  having  shamefully  deserted 
his  companions  in  their  extremity,  carrying  off  with  him  a 
horse ;  in  the  one  now  given  he  spoke  of  him  as  having  been 
killed  in  the  affray  with  the  Arapahays.  This  discrepancy,  of 
which,  of  course,  Reed  could  have  had  no  knowledge  at  the 
time,  concurred  with  other  circumstances,  to  occasion  after 
ward  some  mysterious  speculations  and  dark  surmises,  as  to 
the  real  fate  of  Cass ;  but  as  no  substantial  grounds  were  ever 
adduced  for  them,  we  forbear  to  throw  any  deeper  shades  into 
this  story  of  sufferings  in  the  wilderness. 

Mr.  Reed  having  gathered  the  remainder  of  the  goods  from 
the  caches,  put  himself  at  the  head  of  his  party,  now  augmented 
by  the  seven  men  thus  casually  picked  up,  and  the  squaw  of 
Pierre  Delaunay,  and  made  his  way  successfully  to  M'Kenzie's 
Post,  on  the  waters  of  the  Shahaptan. 


CHAPTER  LIII. 

AFTER  the  departure  of  the  different  detachments  or  brigades, 
as  they  are  called  by  the  fur  traders,  the  Beaver  prepared  for 
her  voyage  along  the  coast,  and  her  visit  to  the  Russian  estab 
lishment,  at  New  Archangel,  where  she  was  to  carry  supplies. 
It  had  been  determined  in  the  council  of  partners  at  Astoria, 
that  Mr.  Hunt  should  embark  in  this  vessel,  for  the  purpose  of 
acquainting  himself  with  the  coasting  trade,  and  of  making 
arrangements  with  the  commander  of  the  Russian  post,  and 
that  he  should  be  relanded  in  October,  at  Astoria,  by  the 
Beaver,  on  her  way  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  Canton. 

The  Beaver  put  to  sea  in  the  month  of  August.  Her  depart 
ure,  and  that  of  the  various  brigades,  left  the  fortress  of  Astoria 
but  slightly  garrisoned.  This  was  soon  perceived  by  some  of 
the  Indian  tribes,  and  the  consequence  was  increased  insolence 
of  deportment,  and  a  disposition  to  hostility.  It  was  now  the 
fishing  season,  when  the  tribes  from  the  northern  coast  drew 
into  the  neighborhood  of  the  Columbia.  These  were  warlike 
and  perfidious  in  their  dispositions-,  and  noted  for  their  at- 


334  ASTORIA. 

tempts  to  surprise  trading  ships.  Among  them  were  numbers 
of  the  Neweetees,  the  ferocious  tribe  that  massacred  the  crew 
of  the  Tonquin. 

Great  precautions,  therefore,  were  taken  at  the  factory  to 
guard  against  surprise  while  these  dangerous  intruders  were 
in  the  vicinity.  Galleries  were  constructed  inside  of  the  pali 
sades  ;  the  bastions  were  heightened,  and  sentinels  were  posted 
day  and  night.  Fortunately,  the  Chinooks  and  other  tribes 
resident  in  the  vicinity  manifested  the  most  pacific  disposition. 
Old  Comcomly,  who  held  sway  over  them,  was  a  shrewd  calcu 
lator.  He  was  aware  of  the  advantages  of  having  the  whites 
as  neighbors  and  allies,  and  of  the  consequence  derived  to  him 
self  and  his  people  from  acting  as  intermediate  traders  between 
them  and  the  distant  tribes.  He  had,  therefore,  by  this  time, 
become  a  firm  friend  of  the  Astorians,  and  formed  a  kind  of 
barrier  betAveen  them  and  the  hostile  intruders  from  the  north. 

The  summer  of  1812  passed  away  without  any  of  the  hostili 
ties  that  had  been  apprehended;  the  Neweetees,  and  other 
dangerous  visitors  to  the  neighborhood,  finished  their  fishing 
and  returned  home,  and  the  inmates  of  the  factory  once  more 
felt  secure  from  attack. 

It  now  'became  necessary  to  guard  against  other  evils.  The 
season  of  scarcity  arrived,  which  commences  in  October,  and 
lasts  until  the  end  of  January.  To  provide  for  the  support  of 
the  garrison,  the  shallop  was  employed  to  forage  about  the 
shores  of  the  river.  A  number  of  the  men,  also,  under  the  com 
mand  of  some  of  the  clerks,  were  sent  to  quarter  themselves 
on  the  banks  of  the  Wollamut  (the  Multnomah  of  Lewis  and 
Clarke),  a  fine  river  which  disembogues  itself  into  the  Columbia, 
about  sixty  miles  above  Astoria.  The  country  bordering  on 
the  river  is  finely  diversified  with  prairies  and  hills,  and  forests 
of  oak,  ash,  maple,  and  cedar.  It  abounded,  at  that  time,  with 
elk  and  deer,  and  the  streams  were  well  stocked  with  beaver. 
Here  the  party,  after  supplying  their  own  wants,  were  enabled 
to  pack  up  quantities  of  dried  meat,  and  send  it  by  canoes  to 
Astoria. 

The  month  of  October  elapsed  without  the  return  of  the 
Beaver.  November,  December,  January,  passed  away,  and 
still  nothing  was  seen  or  heard  of  her.  Gloomy  apprehensions 
now  began  to  be  entertained ;  she  might  have  been  wrecked  in 
the  course  of  her  coasting  voyage,  or  surprised,  like  the  Ton 
quin,  by  some  of  the  treacherous  tribes  of  the  north. 

No  one  indulged  more  in  these  apprehensions  than  M'Dougal, 


ASTORIA.  335 

who  had  now  the  charge  of  the  establishment.  He  no  longer 
evinced  the  bustling  confidence  and  buoyancy  which  once 
characterized  him.  Command  seemed  to  have  lost  its  charms 
for  him,  or  rather,  he  gave  way  to  the  most  abject  despond 
ency,  decrying  the  whole  enterprise,  magnifying  every  un 
toward  circumstance,  and  foreboding  nothing  but  evil. 

While  in  this  moody  state,  he  was  surprised,  on  the  IGth  of 
January,  by  the  sudden  appearance  of  M'Kenzie,  wayworn  and 
weather-beaten  by  a  long  wintry  journey  from  his  post  on  the 
Shahaptan,  and  with  a  face  the  very  frontispiece  for  a  volume 
of  misfortune.  M'Kenzie  had  been  heartily  disgusted  and  dis 
appointed  at  his  post.  It  was  in  the  midst  of  the  Tushepaws, 
a  powerful  and  warlike  nation,  divided  into  many  tribes, 
under  different  chiefs,  who  possessed  innumerable  horses,  but, 
not  having  turned  their  attention  to  beaver  trapping,  had  no 
furs  to  offer.  According  to  M'Kenzie  they  were  but  a  ' '  rascally 
tribe;"  from  which  we  may  infer  that  they  were  prone  to  con 
sult  their  own  interests,  more  than  comported  with  the  inter 
ests  of  a  greedy  Indian  trader. 

Game  being  scarce,  he  was  obliged  to  rely,  for  the  most  part, 
on  horse-flesh  for  subsistence,  and  the  Indians  discovering  his 
necessities,  adopted  a  policy  usual  in  civilized  trade,  and  raised 
the  price  of  horses  to  an  exorbitant  rate,  knowing  that  he  and 
his  men  must  eat  or  die.  In  this  way,  the  goods  he  had 
brought  to  trade  for  beaver  skins,  were  likely  to  be  bartered 
for  horse-flesh,  and  all  the  proceeds  devoured  upon  the  spot. 

tie  had  dispatched  trappers  in  various  directions,  but  the 
country  around  did  not  offer  more  beaver  than  his  own  sta 
tion.  In  this  emergency  he  began  to  think  of  abandoning  his 
unprofitable  post,  sending  his  goods  to  the  posts  of  Clarke  and 
David  Stuart,  who  could  make  a  better  use  of  them,  as  they 
were  in  a  good  beaver  country,  and  returning  with  his  party 
to  Astoria,  to  seek  some  better  destination.  With  this  view, 
he  repaired  to  the  post  of  Mr.  Clarke,  to  hold  a  consultation. 
While  the  two  partners  were  in  conference  in  Mr.  Clarke's 
wigwam,  an  unexpected  visitor  came  bustling  in  upon  them. 

This  was  Mr.  John  George  M'Tavish,  a  partner  of  the  North 
west  Company,  who  had  charge  of  the  rival  trading  posts 
established  in  that  neighborhood.  Mr.  M'Tavish  was  the  de 
lighted  messenger  of  bad  news.  He  had  been  to  Lake  Winni 
peg,  where  he  received  an  express  from  Canada,  containing 
the  declaration  of  war,  and  President  Madison's  proclamation, 
which  he  handed  with  the  most  officious  complaisance  to 


336  ASTORIA. 

Messrs.  Clarke  and  M'Kenzie.  He  moreover  told  them  that  he 
had  received  a  fresh  supply  of  goods  from  the  northwest  posts 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  was  prepared 
for  vigorous  opposition  to  the  establishment  of  the  American 
Company.  He  capped  the  climax  of  this  obliging,  but  bellig 
erent  intelligence,  bv  informing  them  that  the  armed  ship, 
Isaac  Todd,  was  to  be  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  about  the 
beginning  of  March,  to  get  possession  of  the  trade  of  the  river, 
and  that  he  was  ordered  to  join  her  there  at  that  time. 

The  receipt  of  this  news  determined  M'Kenzie.  He  imme 
diately  returned  to  the  Shahaptan,  broke  up  his  establishment, 
deposited  his  goods  in  cache,  and  hastened,  with  all  his  people, 
to  Astoria. 

The  intelligence  thus  brought,  completed  the  dismay  of 
M'Dougal,  and  seemed  to  produce  a  complete  confusion  of 
mind.  He  held  a  council  of  war  with  M'Kenzie,  at  which 
some  of  the  clerks  were  present,  but  of  course  had  no  votes. 
They  gave  up  all  hope  of  maintaining  their  post  at  Astoria. 
The  Beaver  had  probably  been  lost ;  they  could  receive  no  aid 
from  the  United  States,  as  all  ports  would  be  blockaded. 
From  England  nothing  could  be  expected  but  hostility.  It 
was  determined,  therefore,  to  abandon  the  establishment  in 
the  course  of  the  following  spring,  and  return  across  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 

In  pursuance  of  this  resolution,  they  suspended  all  trade 
with  the  natives,  except  for  provisions,  having  already  more 
peltries  than  they  could  carry  away,  and  having  need  of  all 
the  goods  for  the  clothing  and  subsistence  of  their  people 
during  the  remainder  of  their  sojourn,  and  on  their  journey 
across  the  mountains.  Their  intention  of  abandoning  Astoria 
was,  however,  kept  secret  from  the  men,  lest  they  should  at 
once  give  up  all  labor,  and  become  restless  and  insubordinate. 

In  the  meantime,  M'Kenzie  set  off  for  his  post  at  the  Sha 
haptan,  to  get  his  goods  from  the  caches,  and  buy  horses  and 
provisions  with  them  for  the  caravan  across  the  mountains. 
He  was  charged  with  dispatches  from  M'Dougal  to  Messrs. 
Stuart  and  Clarke,  apprizing  them  of  the  intended  migration, 
that  they  might  make  timely  preparations. 

M'Kenzie  was  accompanied  by  two  of  the  clerks,  Mr.  John 
Reed,  the  Irishman,  and  Mr.  Alfred  Seton,  of  New  York. 
They  embarked  in  two  canoes,  manned  by  seventeen  men,  and 
ascended  the  river  without  any  incident  of  importance,  until 
they  arrived  in  the  eventful  neighborhood  of  the  rapids.  They 


ASTORIA.  337 

made  the  portage  of  the  narrows  and  the  falls  early  in  the 
afternoon,  and,  having  partaken  of  a  scanty  meal,  had  now  a 
long  evening  on  their  hands. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  lay  the  village  of  Wish- 
ram,  of  freebooting  renown.  Here  lived  the  savages  who  had 
robbed  and  maltreated  Reed,  when  bearing  his  tin  box  of 
dispatches.  It  was  known  that  the  rifle  of  which  he  was 
despoiled  was  retained  as  a  trophy  at  the  village.  M'Kenzie 
offered  to  cross  the  river,  and  demand  the  rifle,  if  any  one 
would  accompany  him.  It  was  a  hair-brained  project,  for 
these  villages  were  noted  for  the  ruffian  character  of  their 
inhabitants;  yet  two  volunteers  promptly  stepped  forward; 
Alfred  Seton,  the  clerk,  and  Joe  de  la  Pierre,  the  cook.  The 
trio  soon  reached  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  On  landing 
they  freshly  primed  their  rifles  and  pistols.  A  path  winding 
for  about  a  hundred  yards  among  rocks  and  crags,  led  to  the 
village.  No  notice  seemed  to  be  taken  of  their  approach.  Not 
a  solitary  being,  man,  woman,  or  child  greeted  them.  The 
very  dogs,  those  noisy  pests  of  an  Indian  town,  kept  silence. 
On  entering  the  village,  a  boy  made  his  appearance,  and 
pointed  to  a  house  of  larger  dimensions  than  the  rest.  They 
had  to  stoop  to  enter  it ;  as  soon  as  they  had  passed  the  thresh 
old,  the  narrow  passage  behind  them  was  filled  up  by  a  sudden 
rush  of  Indians,  who  had  before  kept  out  of  sight. 

M'Kenzie  and  his  companions  found  themselves  in  a  rude 
chamber  of  about  twenty-five  feet  long,  and  twenty  wide.  A 
bright  fire  was  blazing  at  one  end,  near  which  sat  the  chief, 
about  sixty  years  old.  A  large  number  of  Indians,  wrapped 
in  buffalo  robes,  were  squatted  in  rows,  three  deep,  forming  a 
semicircle  round  three  sides  of  the  room.  A  single  glance 
around  sufficed  to  show  them  the  grim  and  dangerous  assem 
bly  into  wbich  they  had  intruded,  and  that  all  retreat  was  cut 
off  by  th  j  mass  which  blocked  up  the  entrance. 

The  chief  pointed  to  the  vacant  side  of  the  room  opposite  to 
the  djor,  and  motioned  for  them  to  take  their  seats.  They 
corr.plied.  A  dead  pause  ensued.  The  grim  warriors  around 
sal  like  statues ;  each  muffled  in  his  robe,  with  his  fierce  eyes 
bent  on  the  intruders.  The  latter  felt  they  were  in  a  perilous 
predicament. 

"Keep  your  eyes  on  the  chief  while  I  am  addressing  him," 
said  M'Kenzie  to  his  companions.  ' '  Should  he  give  any  sign 
to  his  band,  shoot  him,  and  make  for  the  door." 

M'Kenzie  advanced,  and  offered  the   pipe   of  peace  to  the 


338  ASTORIA. 

chief,  but  it  was  refused.  He  then  made  a  regular  speech, 
explaining  the  object  of  their  visit,  and  proposing  to  give  in 
exchange  for  the  rifle  two  blankets,  an  axe,  some  beads,  and 
tobacco. 

When  he  had  done  the  chief  rose,  began  to  address  him  in  a 
low  voice,  but  soon  became  loud  and  violent,  and  ended  by 
working  himself  up  into  a  furious  passion.  He  upbraided  the 
white  men  for  their  sordid  conduct  in  passing  and  repassing 
through  their  neighborhood,  without  giving  them  a  blanket 
or  any  other  article  of  goods,  merely  because  they  had  no 
furs  to  barter  in  exchange ;  and  he  alluded  with  menaces  of 
vengeance,  to  the  death  of  ths  Indian  killed  by  the  whites  in 
the  skirmish  at  the  falls. 

Matters  were  verging  to  a  crisis.  It  was  evident  the  sur 
rounding  savages  were  only  waiting  a  signal  from  the  chief  to 
spring  upon  their  prey.  M'Kenzie  and  his  companions  had 
gradually  risen  on  their  feet  during  the  speech,  and  had 
brought  their  rifles  to  a  horizontal  position,  the  barrels  resting 
in  their  left  hands ;  the  muzzle  of  M'Kenzie's  piece  was  within 
three  feet  of  the  speaker's  heart.  They  cocked  their  rifles ;  the 
click  of  the  locks  for  a  moment  suffused  the  dark  cheek  of  the 
savage,  and  there  was  a  pause.  They  coolly,  but  promptly  ad 
vanced  to  the  door ;  the  Indians  fell  back  in  awe,  and  suffered 
them  to  pass.  The  sun  was  just  setting  as  they  emerged  from 
this  dangerous  den.  They  took  the  precaution  to  keep  along 
the  tops  of  the  rocks  as  much  as  possible  on  their  way  back*  to 
the  canoe,  and  reached  their  camp  in  safety,  congratulating 
themselves  on  their  escape,  and  feeling  no  desire  to  make  a 
second  visit  to  the  grim  warriors  of  Wish-ram. 

M'Kenzie  and  his  party  resumed  their  journey  the  next 
morning.  At  some  distance  above  the  falls  of  the  Columbia, 
they  observed  two  bark  canoes,  filled  with  white  men,  coming 
down  the  river,  to  the  full  chant  of  a  set  of  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs.  A  parley  ensued.  Tt  was  a  detachment  of  north 
westers,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  John  George  M'Tavish, 
bound,  full  of  song  and  spirit,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
to  await  the  arrival  of  the  Isaac  Todd. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie  and  M'Tavish  came  to  a  halt,  and  landing,  en 
camped  together  for  the  night.  The  voyageurs  of  either  party 
hailed  each  other  as  brothers,  and  old  "comrades,"  and  they 
mingled  together  as  if  united  by  one  common  interest,  instead 
of  belonging  to  rival  companies,  and  trading  under  hostile 
flags. 


ASTGU1A.  339 

In  the  morning  they  proceeded  011  their  different  ways,  in 
style  corresponding  to  their  different  fortunes,  the  one  toiling 
painfully  against  the  stream,  the  other  sweeping  down  gayly 
with  the  current. 

M'Kenzie  arrived  safely  at  his  deserted  post  on  the  Shahap- 
tan,  but  found,  to  his  chagrin,  that  his  caches  had  been  dis 
covered  and  rifled  by  the  Indians.  Here  was  a  dilemma,  for 
on  the  stolen  goods  he  had  depended  to  purchase  horses  of  the 
Indians.  He  sent  out  men  in  all  directions  to  endeavor  to 
discover  the  thieves,  and  dispatched  Mr.  Reed  to  the  posts  of 
Messrs.  Clarke  and  David  Stuart,  with  the  letters  of  Mr. 
M'Dougal. 

The  resolution  announced  in  these  letters,  to  break  up  and 
depart  from  Astoria,  was  condemned  by  both  Clarke  and 
Stuart.  These  two  gentlemen  had  been  very  successful  at  their 
posts,  and  considered  it  rash  and  pusillanimous  to  abandon,  on 
the  first  difficulty,  an  enterprise  of  such  great  cost  and  ample 
promise.  They  made  no  arrangements,  therefore,  for  leaving 
the  country,  but  acted  with  a  view  to  the  maintenance  of  their 
new  and  prosperous  establishments. 

The  regular  time  approached,  when  the  partners  of  the  in 
terior  posts  were  to  rendezvous  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wallah  - 
"Wallah,  on  their  way  to  Astoria,  with  the  peltries  they  had 
collected.  Mr.  Clarke  accordingly  packed  all  his  furs  on 
twenty-eight  horses,  and  leaving  a  clerk  and  four  men  to 
take  charge  of  the  post,  departed  on  the  25th  of  May  with  the 
residue  of  his  force. 

On  the  30th  he  arrived  at  the  confluence  of  the  Pavion  and 
Lewis  Rivers,  where  he  had  left  his  barge  and  canoes,  in  the 
guardianship  of  the  old  Pierced-nose  chieftain.  That  dignitary 
had  acquitted  himself  more  faithfully  of  his  charge  than  Mr. 
Clarke  had  expected,  and  the  canoes  were  found  in  very  tol 
erable  order.  Some  repairs  were  necessary,  and  while  they 
were  making,  the  party  encamped  close  by  the  village. 
Having  had  repeated  and  vexatious  proofs  of  the  pilfering  pro 
pensities  of  this  tribe  during  his  former  visit,  Mr.  Clarke 
ordered  that  a  wary  eye  should  be  kept  upon  them. 

He  was  a  tall,  good-looking  man,  and  somewhat  given  to 
pomp  and  circumstance,  which  made  him  an  object  of  note  in 
the  eyes  of  the  wondering  savages.  He  was  stately,  too,  in  his 
appointments,  and  had  a  silver  goblet  or  drinking  cup,  out  of 
which  he  would  drink  with  a  magnificent  air,  and  then  lock  it 
up  in  a  large  garde  vin,  which  accompanied  him  in  his  travels, 


340  ASTORIA. 

and  stood  in  his  tent.  This  goblet  had  originally  been  sent  as  a 
present  from  Mr.  Astor  to  Mr.  M'Kay,  the  partner  who  had 
unfortunately  been  blown  up  in  the  Tonquin.  As  it  reached 
Astoria  after  the  departure  of  that  gentleman,  it  had  remained 
in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Clarke. 

A  silver  goblet  was  too  glittering  a  prize  not  to  catch  the 
eye  of  a  Pierced-nose.  It  was  like  the  shining  tin  case  of  John 
Eeed.  Such  a  wonder  had  never  been  seen  in  the  land  before. 
The  Indians  talked  about  it  to  one  another.  They  marked  the 
care  with  which  it  was  deposited  in  the  garde  vin,  like  a  relic 
in  its  shrine,  and  concluded  that  it  must  be  a  "  great  medi 
cine.  "  That  night  Mr.  Clarke  neglected  to  lock  up  his  treasure ; 
in  the  morning  the  sacred  casket  was  open— the  precious  relic 
gone ! 

Clarke  was  now  outrageous.  All  the  past  vexations  that  he 
had  suffered  from  this  pilfering  community  rose  to  mind,  and 
he  threatened  that,  unless  the  goblet  was  promptly  returned, 
he  would  hang  the  thief  should  he  eventually  discover  him. 
The  day  passed  away,  however,  without  the  restoration  of 
the  cup.  At  night  sentinels  were  secretly  posted  about  the 
camp.  With  all  their  vigilance  a  Pierced-nose  contrived  to 
get  into  the  camp  unperceived,  and  to  load  himself  with  booty ; 
it  was  only  on  his  retreat  that  he  was  discovered  and  taken. 

At  daybreak  the  culprit  was  brought  to  trial,  and  promptly 
convicted.  He  stood  responsible  for  all  the  spoliations  of  the 
camp,  the  precious  goblet  among  the  number,  and  Mr.  Clarke 
passed  sentence  of  death  upon  him. 

A  gibbet  was  accordingly  constructed  of  oars ;  the  chief  of 
the  village  and  his  people  were  assembled  and  the  culprit  was 
produced,  with  his  legs  and  arms  pinioned.  Clarke  then  made 
a  harangue.  He  reminded  the  tribe  of  the  benefits  he  had  be 
stowed  upon  them  during  his  former  visits,  and  the  many 
thefts  and  other  misdeeds  which  he  had  overlooked.  The 
prisoner  especially  had  always  been  peculiarly  well  treated  by 
the  white  men,  but  had  repeatedly  been  guilty  of  pilfering. 
He  was  to  be  punished  for  his  'own  misdeeds,  and  as  a  warning 
to  his  tribe. 

The  Indians  now  gathered  round  Mr.  Clarke  and  interceded 
for  the  culprit.  They  were  willing  he  should  be  punished 
severely,  but  implored  that  his  life  might  be  spared.  The  com 
panions,  too,  of  Mr.  Clarke  considered  the  sentence  too  severe, 
and  advised  him  to  mitigate  it ;  but  he  was  inexorable.  He 
was  not  naturally  a  stern  or  cruel  man ;  but  from  his  boyhood 


ASTORIA.  341 

he  had  lived  in  the  Indian  country  among  Indian  traders,  and 
held  the  life  of  a  savage  extremely  cheap.  He  was,  moreover, 
a  firm  believer  in  the  doctrine  of  intimidation. 

Farnham,  a  clerk,  a  tall  ' '  Green  Mountain  boy"  from  Ver 
mont,  who  had  been  robbed  of  a  pistol,  acted  as  executioner. 
The  signal  was  given,  and  the  poor  Pierced-nose,  resisting, 
struggling,  and  screaming,  in  the  most  frightful  manner,  was 
launched  into  eternity.  The  Indians  stood  round  gazing  in 
silence  and  mute  awe,  but  made  no  attempt  to  oppose  the  exe 
cution,  nor  testified  any  emotion  when  it  was  over.  They 
locked  up  their  feelings  within  their  bosoms  until  an  oppor 
tunity  should  arrive  to  gratify  them  with  a  bloody  act  of 
vengeance. 

To  say  nothing  of  the  needless  severity  of  this  act,  its  im 
policy  was  glaringly  obvious.  Mr.  M'Lennan  and  three  men 
were  to  return  to  the  post  with  the  horses,  their  loads  having 
been  transferred  to  the  canoes.  They  would  have  to  pass 
through  a  tract  of  country  infested  by  this  tribe,  who  were  all 
horsemen  and  hard  riders,  and  might  pursue  them  to  take 
vengeance  for  the  death  of  their  comrade.  M'Lennan,  however, 
was  a  resolute  fellow,  and  made  light  of  all  dangers.  He  and 
his  three  men  were  present  at  the  execution,  and  set  off  as  soon 
as  life  was  extinct  in  the  victim ;  but,  to  use  the  words  of  one 
of  their  comrades,  "they  did  not  let  the  grass  grow  under  the 
heels  of  their  horses,  as  they  clattered  out  of  the  Pierced-nose 
country,"  and  were  glad  to  find  themselves  in  safety  at  the 
post. 

Mr.  Clarke  and  his  party  embarked  about  the  same  time  in 
their  canoes,  and  early  on  the  following  day  reached  the 
mouth  of  the  Wallah- Wallah,  where  they  found  Messrs.  Stuart 
and  M'Kenzie  awaiting  them ;  the  latter  having  recovered  part 
of  the  goods  stolen  from  his  cache.  Clarke  informed  them 
of  the  signal  punishment  he  had  inflicted  on  the  Pierced-noso, 
evidently  expecting  to  excite  their  admiration  by  such  a  hardy 
act  of  justice,  performed  in  the  very  midst  of  the  Indian  coun 
try,  but  was  mortified  at  finding  it  strongly  censured  as  inhu 
man,  unnecessary,  and  likely  to  provoke  hostilities. 

The  parties  thus  united  formed  a  squadron  of  two  boats  and 
six  canoes,  with  which  they  performed  their  voyage  in  safety 
down  the  river,  and  arrived  at  Astoria  on  the  12th  of  June, 
bringing  with  them  a  valuable  stock  of  peltries. 

About  ten  days  previously,  the  brigade  which  had  been 
quartered  on  the  banks  of  the  Wollamut,  had  arrived  with 


342  ASTORIA. 

numerous  packs  of  beaver,  the  result  of  a  few  months'  sojourn 
on  that  river.  These  were  the  first  fruits  of  the  enterprise, 
gathered  by  men  as  yet  mere  strangers  in  the  land ;  but  they 
were  such  as  to  give  substantial  grounds  for  sanguine  antici 
pations  of  profit,  when  the  country  should  be  more  completely 
explored,  and  the  trade  established. 


CHAPTER  LIV. 

THE  partners  found  Mr.  M'Dougal  in  all  the  bustle  of  prepa 
ration  ;  having  about  nine  days  previously  announced  at  the 
factory,  his  intention  of  breaking  up  the  establishment,  and 
fixed  upon  the  1st  of  July  for  the  time  of  departure.  Messrs. 
Stuart  and  Clarke  felt  highly  displeased  at  his  taking  so  pre 
cipitate  a  step,  without  waiting  for  their  concurrence,  when  he 
must  have  known  that  their  arrival  could  not  be  far  distant. 

Indeed,  the  whole  conduct  of  Mr.  M'Dougal  was  such  as  to 
awaken  strong  doubts  as  to  his  loyal  devotion  to  the  cause. 
His  old  sympathies  with  the  Northwest  Company  seemed  to 
have  revived.  He  had  received  M'Tavish  and  his  party  with 
uncalled-for  hospitality,  as  though  they  were  friends  and  allies, 
instead  of  being  a  party  of  observation,  come  to  reconnoitre 
the  state  of  affairs  at  Astoria,  and  to  await  the  arrival  of  a 
hostile  ship.  Had  they  been  left  to  themselves,  they  would 
have  been  starved  off  for  want  of  provisions,  or  driven  away 
by  the  Chinooks,  who  only  wanted  a  signal  from  the  factory 
to  treat  them  as  intruders  and  enemies.  M'Dougal,  on  the  con 
trary,  had  supplied  them  from  the  stores  of  the  garrison,  and 
had  gained  them  the  favor  of  the  Indians,  by  treating  them  as 
friends. 

Having  set  his  mind  fixedly  on  the  project  of  breaking  up 
the  establishment  at  Astoria,  in  the  current  year,  M'Dougal  was 
sorely  disappointed  at  finding  that  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clarke 
had  omitted  to  comply  with  his  request  to  purchase  horses  and 
provisions  for  the  caravan  across  the  mountains.  It  was  now 
too  late  to  make  the  necessary  preparations  in  time  for  trav 
ersing  the  mountains  before  winter,  and  the  project  had  to  be 
postponed. 

In  the  meantime,  the  non-arrival  of  the  annual  ship,  and  the 
apprehensions  entertained  of  the  loss  of  the  Beaver,  and  of  Mr. 


ASTORIA.  343 

Hunt,  had  their  effect  upon  the  minds  of  Messrs.  Stuart  and 
Clarke.  They  began  to  listen  to  the  desponding  representa 
tions  of  M'Dougal,  seconded  by  M'Kenzie,  who  inveighed 
against  their  situation  as  desperate  and  forlorn;  left  to  shift 
for  themselves,  or  perish  upon  a  barbarous  coast ;  neglected  by 
those  who  sent  them  there,  and  threatened  with  dangers  of 
every  kind.  In  this  way  they  were  brought  to  consent  to  the 
plan  of  abandoning  the  country  in  the  ensuing  year. 

About  this  time,  M'Tavish  applied  at  the  factory  to  purchase 
a  small  supply  of  goods  wherewith  to  trade  his  way  back  to  his 
post  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Columbia,  having  waited  in 
vain  for  the  arrival  of  the  Isaac  Todd.  His  request  brought 
on  a  consultation  among  the  partners.  M'Dougal  urged  that 
it  should  be  complied  with.  He  furthernore  proposed,  that 
they  should  give  up  to  M'Tavish,  for  a  proper  consideration, 
the  post  on  the  Spokan,  and  all  its  dependencies,  as  they  had 
not  sufficient  goods  on  hand  to  supply  that  post  themselves, 
and  to  keep  up  a  competition  with  the  Northwest  Company  in 
the  trade  with  the  neighboring  Indians.  This  last  representa 
tion  has  since  been  proved  incorrect.  By  inventories,  it  ap 
pears  that  their  stock  in  hand  for  the  supply  of  the  interior 
posts,  was  superior  to  that  of  the  Northwest  Company ;  so  that 
they  had  nothing  to  fear  from  competition. 

Through  the  influence  of  Messrs.  M'Dougal  and  M'Kenzie, 
this  proposition  was  adopted,  and  was  promptly  accepted  by 
M'Tavish.  The  merchandise  sold  to  him  amounted  to  eight 
hundred  and  fifty-eight  dollars,  to  be  paid  for,  in  the  following 
spring,  in  horses,  or  in  any  other  manner  most  acceptable  to 
the  partners  at  that  period. 

This  agreement  being  concluded,  the  partners  formed  their 
plans  for  the  year  that  they  would  yet  have  to  pass  in  the 
country.  Their  objects  were,  chiefly,  present  subsistence,  and 
the  purchase  of  horses  for  the  contemplated  journey,  though 
they  were  likewise  to  collect  as  much  peltries  as  their  dimin 
ished  means  would  command.  Accordingly,  it  was  arranged 
that  David  Stuart  should  return  to  his  former  post  on  the 
Oakinagan,  and  Mr.  Clarke  should  make  his  sojourn  among 
the  Flatheads.  John  Eeed,  the  sturdy  Hibernian,  was  to  un 
dertake  the  Snake  Elver  country,  accompanied  by  Pierre 
Dorion  and  Pierre  Delaunay,  as  hunters,  and  Francis  Landry, 
Jean  Baptiste  Turcotte,  Andre  La  Chapelle,  and  Gilles  le  Clerc, 
Canadian  voyageurs. 

Astoria,  however,  was  the  post  about  which  they  felt  the 


344  ASTORIA, 

greatest  solicitude,  and  on  which  they  all  more  or  less  depended. 
The  maintenance  of  this  in  safety  throughout  the  coming  year, 
was,  therefore,  their  grand  consideration.  Mr.  M'Dougal  was 
to  continue  in  command  of  it,  with  a  party  of  forty  men.  They 
would  have  to  depend  chiefly  upon  the  neighboring  savages  for 
their  subsistence.  These,  at  present,  were  friendly,  but  it  was 
to  be  feared  that,  when  they  should  discover  the  exigencies  of 
the  post,  and  its  real  weakness,  they  might  proceed  to  hostili 
ties  ;  or,  at  any  rate,  might  cease  to  furnish  their  usual  supplies. 
It  was  important,  therefore,  to  render  the  place  as  independent 
as  possible,  of  the  surrounding  tribes  for  its  support ;  and  it  was 
accordingly  resolved  that  M'Kenzie,  with  four  hunters,  and 
eight  common  men,  should  winter  in  the  abundant  country  of 
Wollamut,  from  whence  they  might  be  enabled  to  furnish  a 
constant  supply  of  provisions  to  Astoria. 

As  there  was  too  great  a  proportion  of  clerks  for  the  number 
of  privates  in  the  service,  the  engagements  of  three  of  them, 
Ross  Cox,  Ross,  and  M'Lennan,  were  surrendered  to  them,  and 
they  immediately  enrolled  themselves  in  the  service  of  the 
Northwest  Company ;  glad,  no  doubt,  to  escape  from  what  they 
considered  a  sinking  ship. 

Having  made  all  these  arrangements,  the  four  partners,  on 
the  first  of  July,  signed  a  formal  manifesto,  stating  the  alarm 
ing  state  of  their  affairs,  from  the  non-arrival  of  the  annual  ship, 
and  the  absence  and  apprehended  loss  of  the  Beaver,  their 
want  of  goods,  their  despair  of  receiving  any  further  supply, 
their  ignorance  of  the  coast,  and  their  disappointment  as  to 
the  interior  trade,  which  they  pronounced  unequal  to  the  ex 
penses  incurred,  and  incompetent  to  stand  against  the  powerful 
opposition  of  the  Northwest  Company.  And  as  by  the  16th 
article  of  the  company's  agreement,  they  were  authorized  to 
abandon  this  undertaking  and  dissolve  the  concern,  if  before 
the  period  of  five  years  it  should  be  found  unprofitable,  they 
now  formally  announced  their  intention  to  do  so  on  the  1st  day 
of  June,  of  the  ensuing  year,  unless  in  the  interim  they 
should  receive  the  necessary  support  and  supplies  from  Mr. 
Astor,  or  the  stockholders,  with  orders  to  -continue. 

This  instrument,  accompanied  by  private  letters  of  similar 
import,  was  delivered  to  Mr.  M'Tavish,  who  departed  on  the 
5th  of  July.  He  engaged  to  forward  the  dispatches  to  Mr. 
Astor,  by  the  usual  winter  express  sent  overland  by  the  North 
west  Company. 

The  manifesto  was  signed  with  great  reluctance  by  Messrs. 


ASTORIA.  B45 

Clarke  and  D.  Stuart,  whose  experience  by  no  means  justified 
the  discouraging  account  given  in  it  of  the  internal  trade,  and 
who  considered  the  main  difficulties  of  exploring  an  unknown 
and  savage  country,  and  oi'  ascertaining  the  best  trading  and 
trapping  grounds,  in  a  great  measure  overcome.  They  were 
overruled,  however,  by  the  urgent  instances  of  M'Dougal  and 
M'Kenzie,  who,  having  resolved  upon  abandoning  the  enter 
prise,  were  desirous  of  making  as  strong  a  case  as  possible  to 
excuse  their  conduct  to  Mr.  Astor  and  to  the  world. 


CHAPTEE  LV. 

WHILE  difficulties  and  disasters  had  been  gathering  about 
the  infant  settlement  of  Astoria,  the  mind  of  its  projector  at 
New  York  was  a  prey  to  great  anxiety.  The  ship  Lark,  dis 
patched  by  him  with  supplies  for  the  establishment,  sailed  on 
the  6th  of  March,  1813.  Within  a  fortnight  afterward,  he  re 
ceived  intelligence  which  justified  all  his  apprehensions  of 
hostility  on  the  part  of  the  British.  The  Northwest  Company 
had  made  a  second  memorial  to  that  government,  representing 
Astoria  as  an  American  establishment,  stating  the  vast  scope  of 
its  contemplated  operations,  magnifying  the  strength  of  its  for 
tifications,  and  expressing  their  fears,  that,  unless  crushed  in 
the  bud,  it  would  effect  the  downfall  of  their  trade. 

Influenced  by  these  representations,  the  British  Government 
ordered  the  frigate  Phoebe  to  be  detached  as  a  convoy  for  the 
armed  ship,  Isaac  Todd,  which  was  ready  to  sail  with  men  and 
munitions  for  forming  a  new  establishment.  They  were  to 
proceed  together  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  capture  or  de 
stroy  whatever  American  fortress  they  should  find  there,  and 
plant  the  British  flag  on  its  ruins. 

Informed  of  these  movements,  Mr.  Astor  lost  no  time  in 
addressing  a  second  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  State,  communi 
cating  this  intelligence,  and  requesting  it  might  be  laid  before 
the  President;  as  no  notice,  however,  had  been  taken  of  his 
previous  letter,  he  contented  himself  with  this  simple  communi 
cation,  and  made  no  further  application  for  aid. 

Awakened  now  to  the  danger  that  menaced  the  establishment 
at  Astoria,  and  aware  of  the  importance  of  protecting  this  foot 
hold  of  American  commerce  and  empire  on  the  shores  of  the 


346  ASTORIA. 

Pacific,  the  government  determined  to  send  the  frigate  Adams, 
Captain  Crane,  upon  this  service.  On  hearing  of  this  deter 
mination,  Mr.  Astor  immediately  proceeded  to  fit  out  a  ship 
called  the  Enterprise,  to  sail  in  company  with  the  Adams, 
freighted  with  additional  supplies  and  reinforcements  for 
Astoria. 

About  the  middle  of  June,  while  in  the  midst  of  these  pre 
parations,  Mr.  Astor  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  R.  Stuart, 
dated  St.  Louis,  May  1st,  confirming  the  intelligence  already 
received  through  the  public  newspapers,  of  his  safe  return,  and 
of  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  at  Astoria,  and  giving 
the  most  flattering  accounts  of  the  prosperity  of  the  enterprise. 

So  deep  had  been  the  anxiety  of  Mr.  Astor,  for  the  success  of 
this  great  object  of  his  ambition,  that  this  gleam  of  good  news 
was  almost  overpowering.  "I  felt  ready,"  said  he,  "to  fall 
upon  my  knees  in  a  transport  of  gratitude." 

At  the  same  time  he  heard  that  the  Beaver  had  made  good 
her  voyage  from  New  York  to  the  Columbia.  This  was  addi 
tional  ground  of  hope  for  the  welfare  of  the  little  colony.  The 
post  being  thus  relieved  and  strengthened  with  an  American  at 
its  head,  and  a  ship  of  war  about  to  sail  for  its  protection,  the 
prospect  for  the  future  seemed  full  of  encouragement,  and  Mr. 
Astor  proceeded,  with  fresh  vigor,  to  fit  out  his  merchant  ship. 

Unfortunately  for  Astoria,  this  bright  gleam  of  sunshine  was 
soon  overclouded.  Just  as  the  Adams  had  received  her  com 
plement  of  men,  and  the  two  vessels  were  ready  for  sea,  news 
came  from  Commodore  Chauncey,  commanding  on  Lake  On 
tario,  that  a  reinforcement  of  seamen  was  wanted  in  that 
quarter.  The  demand  was  urgent,  the  crew  of  the  Adams  was 
immediately  transferred  to  that  service,  and  the  ship  was  laid 
up. 

This  was  a  most  ill-timed  and  discouraging  blow,  but  Mr. 
Astor  would  not  yet  allow  himself  to  pause  in  his  undertaking. 
He  determined  to  send  the  Enterprise  to  sea  alone,  and  let  her 
take  the  chance  of  making  her  unprotected  way  across  the 
ocean.  Just  at  this  time,  nowever,  a  British  force  made  its 
appearance  off  the  Hook,  and  the  port  of  New  York  was  effec 
tually  blockaded.  To  send  a  ship  to  sea  under  these  circum 
stances  would  be  to  expose  her  to  almost  certain  capture.  The 
Enterprise  was,  therefore,  unloaded  and  dismantled,  and  Mr. 
Astor  was  obliged  to  comfort  himself  with  the  hope  that  the 
Lark  might  reach  Astoria  in  safety,  and  that,  aided  by  her 
supplies  and  by  the  good  management  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  as- 


ASTORIA.  347 

sociates,  the  little  colony  might  be  able  to  maintain  itself,  until 
the  return  of  peace. 


CHAPTER  LVI. 

WE  have. hitherto  had  so  much  to  relate  of  a  gloomy  and 
disastrous  nature,  that  it  is  with  a  feeling  of  momentary  relief 
we  turn  to  something  of  a  more  pleasing  complexion,  and  re 
cord  the  first,  and  indeed  only  nuptials  in  high  life  that  took 
place  in  the  infant  settlement  of  Astoria. 

M'Dougal,  who  appears  to  have  been  a  man  of  a  thousand 
projects,  and  of  great  though  somewhat  irregular  ambition, 
suddenly  conceived  the  idea  of  seeking  the  hand  of  one  of  the 
native  princesses,  a  daughter  of  the  one  eyed  potentate  Com- 
comly,  who  held  sway  over  the  fishing  tribe  of  the  Chinooks, 
and  had  long  supplied  the  factory  with  smelts  and  sturgeons. 

Some  accounts  give  rather  a  romantic  origin  to  this  affair, 
tracing  it  to  the  stormy  night  when  M'Dougal,  in  the  course  of 
an  exploring  expedition,  was  driven  by  stress  of  weather  to 
seek  shelter  in  the  royal  abode  of  Comcomly.  Then  and  there 
he  was  first  struck  with  the  charms  of  this  piscatory  princess, 
as  she  exerted  herself  to  entertain  her  father's  guest. 

The  "journal  of  Astoria,"  however,  which  was  kept  under 
his  own  eye,  records  this  union  as  a  high  state  alliance,  and 
great  stroke  of  policy.  The  factory  had  to  depend,  in  a  great 
measure,  on  the  Chinooks  for  provisions.  They  were  at  pres 
ent  friendly,  but  it  was  to  be  feared  they  would  prove  other 
wise,  should  they  discover  the  weakness  and  the  exigencies  of 
the  post,  and  the  intention  to  leave  the  country.  This  alliance, 
therefore,  would  infallibly  rivet  Comcomly  to  the  interests  of 
the  Astorians,  and  with  him  the  powerful  tribe  of  the  Chinooks. 
Be  this  as  it  may,  and  it  is  hard  to  fathom  the  real  policy  of 
governors  and  princes,  M'Dougal  dispatched  two  of  the  clerks 
as  ambassadors  extraordinary,  to  wait  upon  the  one-eyed 
chieftain,  and  make  overtures  for  the  hand  of  his  daughter. 

The  Chinooks,  though  not  a  very  refined  nation,  have  notions 
of  matrimonial  arrangements  that  would  not  disgrace  the  most 
refined  sticklers  for  settlements  and  pin  money.  The  suitor  re 
pairs  not  to  the  bower  of  his  mistress,  but  to  her  father's  lodge, 
and  throws  down  a  present  at  his  feet.  His  wishes  are  then 
disclosed  by  some  discreet  friend  employed  by  him  for  the 


348  ASTORIA. 

purpose.  If  the  suitor  and  his  present  find  favor  in  the  eyes  of 
the  father,  he  breaks  the  matter  to  his  daughter,  and  inquires 
into  the  state  of  her  inclinations.  Should  her  answer  be  favor 
able,  the  suit  is  accepted,  and  the  lover  has  to  make  further 
presents  to  the  father,  of  horses,  canoes,  and  other  valuables, 
according  to  the  beauty  and  merits  of  the  bride ;  looking  for 
ward  to  a  return  in  kind  whenever  they  shall  go  to  house 
keeping. 

We  have  more  than  once  had  occasion  to  speak  of  the 
shrewdness  of  Comcomly;  but  never  was  it  exerted  more 
adroitly  than  on  this  occasion.  He  was  a  great  friend  of 
M'Dougal,  and  pleased  with  the  idea  of  having  so  distinguished 
a  son-in-law;  but  so  favorable  an  opportunity  of  benefiting 
his  own  fortune  was  not  likely  to  occur  a  second  time,  and  he 
determined  to  make  the  most  of  it.  Accordingly,  the  negotia 
tion  was  protracted  with  true  diplomatic  skill.  Conference 
after  conference  was  held  with  the  two  ambassadors;  Com 
comly  was  extravagant  in  his  terms,  rating  the  charms  of  his 
daughter  at  the  highest  price,  and  indeed  she  is  represented  as 
having  one  of  the  flattest  and  most  aristocratical  heads  in  the 
tribe.  At  length  the  preliminaries  were  all  happily  adjusted. 
On  the  20th  of  July,  early  in  the  afternoon,  a  squadron  of 
canoes  crossed  over  from  the  village  of  the  Chinooks,  bearing 
the  royal  family  of  Comcomly,  and  all  his  court. 

That  worthy  sachem  landed  in  princely  state,  arrayed  in  a 
bright  blue  blanket  and  red  breech-clout,  with  an  extra 
quantity  of  paint  and  feathers,  attended  by  a  train  of  half- 
naked  warriors  and  nobles.  A  horse  was  in  waiting  to  receive 
the  princess,  who  was  mounted  behind  one  of  the  clerks,  and 
thus  conveyed,  coy  but  compliant,  to  the  fortress.  Here  she 
was  received  with  devout  though  decent  joy,  by  her  expecting 
bridegroom. 

Her  bridal  adornments,  it  is  true,  at  first  caused  some  little 
dismay,  having  painted  and  anointed  herself  for  the  occasion 
according  to  the  Chinook  toilet ;  by  dint,  however,  of  copious 
ablutions,  she  was  freed  from  all  adventitious  tint  and  fra 
grance,  and  entered  into  the  nuptial  state,  the  cleanest  princess 
that  had  ever  been  known,  of  the  somewhat  unctuous  tribe  of 
the  Chinooks. 

From  that  time  forward  Comcomly  was  a  daily  visitor  at  the 
fort,  and  was  admitted  into  the  most  intimate  councils  of  his 
son-in-law.  He  took  an  interest  in  everything  that  was  going 
forward,  but  was  particularly  frequent  in  his  visits  to  the 


ASTORIA.  349 

blacksmith's  shop,  tasking  the  labors  of  the  artificer  in  iron  for 
every  kind  of  weapon  and  implement  suited  to  the  savage 
state,  insomuch  that  the  necessary  business  of  the  factory  was 
often  postponed  to  attend  to  his  requisitions. 

The  honeymoon  had  scarce  passed  away,  and  M'Dougal  was 
seated  with  his  bride  in  the  fortress  of  Astoria,  when,  about 
noon  of  the  20th  of  August,  Gassacop,  the  son  of  Comconily, 
hurried  into  his  presence  with  great  agitation,  and  announced 
a  ship  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  news  produced  a  vast 
sensation.  Was  it  a  ship  of  peace  or  war?  Was  it  American 
or  British?  Was  it  the  Beaver  or  the  Isaac  Todd?  M'Dougal 
hurried  to  the  water-side,  threw  himself  into  a  boat,  and 
ordered  the  hands  to  pull  with  all  speed  for  the  mouth  of  the 
harbor.  Those  in  the  fort  remained  watching  the  entrance  of 
the  river,  anxious  to  know  whether  they  were  to  prepare  for 
greeting  a  friend  or  fighting  an  enemy.  At  length  the  ship 
was  descried  crossing  the  bar,  and  bending  her  course  toward 
Astoria.  Every  gaze  was  fixed  upon  her  in  silent  scrutiny, 
until  the  American  flag  was  recognized.  A  general  shout  was 
the  first  expression  of  joy,  and  next  a  salutation  was  thundered 
from  the  cannon  of  the  fort. 

The  vessel  came  to  anchor  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
and  returned  the  salute.  The  boat  of  Mr.  M'Dougal  went  on 
board,  and  was  seen  returning  late  in  the  afternoon.  The  As- 
torians  watched  her  with  straining  eyes,  to  discover  who  were 
on  board,  but  the  sun  went  down,  and  the  evening  closed  in 
before  she  was  sufficiently  near.  At  length  she  reached  the 
land,  and  Mr.  Hunt  stepped  on  shore.  He  was  hailed  as  one 
risen  from  the  dead,  and  his  return  was  a  signal  for  merri 
ment  almost  equal  to  that  which  prevailed  at  the  nuptials  of 
M'Dougal. 

We  must  now  explain  the  cause  of  this  gentleman's  long 
absence,  which  had  given  rise  to  such  gloomy  and  dispiriting 
surmises. 


CHAPTER  LVII. 

IT  will  be  recollected  that  the  destination  of  the  Beaver,  when 
she  sailed  from  Astoria  on  the  4th  of  August  in  1812,  was  to 
proceed  northwardly  along  the  coast  to  Sheetka,  or  New  Arch 
angel,  there  to  dispose  of  that  part  of  her  cargo  intended  for 


850  ASTORIA: 

the  supply  of  the  Russian  establishment  at  that  place,  and  then 
to  return  to  Astoria,  where  it  was  expected  she  would  arrive 
in  October. 

New  Archangel  is  situated  in  Norfolk  Sound,  lat.  57°  2'  N., 
long.  135°  50'  W.  It  was  the  headquarters  of  the  different  colo 
nies  of  the  Eussian  Fur  Company,  and  the  common  rendez 
vous  of  the  American  vessels  trading  along  the  coast. 

The  Beaver  met  with  nothing  worthy  of  particular  mention 
in  her  voyage,  and  arrived  at  New  Archangel  on  the  19th  of 
August.  The  place  at  that  time  was  the  residence  of  Count 
Baranhoff,  the  governor  of  the  different  colonies,  a  rough, 
rugged,  hospitable,  hard-drinking  old  Eussian;  somewhat  of  a 
soldier,  somewhat  of  a  trader;  above  all,  a  boon  companion 
of  the  old  roystering  school,  with  a  strong  cross  of  the  bear. 

Mr.  Hunt  found  this  hyperborean  veteran  ensconced  in  a 
fort  which  crested  the  whole  of  a  high  rocky  promontory.  It 
mounted  one  hundred  guns,  large  and  small,  and  was  impreg 
nable  to  Indian  attack,  unaided  by  artillery.  Here  the  old 
governor  lorded  it  over  sixty  Eussians  who  formed  the  corps 
of  the  trading  establishment,  besides  an  indefinite  number  of 
Indian  hunters  of  the  Kodiak  tribe,  who  were  continually  com 
ing  and  going,  or  lounging  and  loitering  about  the  fort  like  so 
many  hounds  round  a  sportsman's  hunting  quarters.  Though 
a  loose  liver  among  his  guests,  the  governor  was  a  strict  disci 
plinarian  among  his  men,  keeping  them  in  perfect  subjection, 
and  having  seven  on  guard  night  and  day. 

Besides  those  immediate  serfs  and  dependents  just  men 
tioned,  the  old  Eussian  potentate  exerted  a  considerable  sway 
over  a  numerous  and  irregular  class  of  maritime  traders,  who 
looked  to  him  for  aid  and  munitions,  and  through  whom  he 
may  be  said  to  have,  in  some  degree,  extended  his  power  along 
the  whole  northwest  coast.  These  were  American  captains  of 
vessels  engaged  in  a  particular  department  of  trade.  One  of 
these  captains  would  come,  in  a  manner,  empty-handed  to  New 
Archangel.  Here  his  ship  would  be  furnished  with  about  fifty 
canoes  and  a  hundred  Kodiak  hunters,  and  fitted  out  with  pro 
visions,  and  everything  necessary  for  hunting  the  sea-otter  on 
the  coast  of  California,  where  the  Eussians  have  another  estab 
lishment.  The  ship  would  ply  along  the  Calif ornian  coast  from 
piace  to  place,  dropping  parties  of  otter  hunters  in  their  canoes, 
furnishing  them  only  with  water,  and  leaving  them  to  depend 
upon  their  own  dexterity  for  a  maintenance.  When  a  suffi 
cient  cargo  was  collected  she  would  gather  up  her  canoes  and 


ASTORIA.  351 

hunters,  and  return  with  them  to  Archangel,  where  the  cap 
tain  would  render  in  the  returns  of  his  voyage,  and  receive 
one  half  of  the  skins  for  his  share. 

Over  these  coasting  captains,  as  we  have  hin  ;ed,  the  veteran 
governor  exerted  some  sort  of  sway,  but  it  was  of  a  peculiar 
and  characteristic  kind ;  it  was  the  tyranny  of  the  table.  They 
were  obliged  to  join  him  in  his  "prosnics"  or  crrousals,  and  to 
drink  "potations  pottle  deep."  His  carousals,  too,  were  not  cf 
the  most  quiet  kind,  nor  were  his  potations  as  mild  as  nectar. 
"He  is  continually ,"  said  Mr.  Hunt,  "giving  entertainments 
by  way  of  parade,  and  if  you  do  not  drink  raw  rum,  and  boiling 
punch  as  strong  as  sulphur,  he  will  insult  you  as  soon  as  he 
gets  drunk,  which  is  very  shortly  after  sitting  down  to  table." 

As  to  any  "  temperance  captain"  who  stood  fast  to  his  faith, 
and  refused  to  give  up  his  sobriety,  he  might  go  elsewhere  for 
a  market,  for  he  stood  no  chance  with  the  govomor.  Rarely, 
however,  did  any  cold-water  caitiff  of  the  kmd  darken  the 
door  of  old  Baranhoff ;  the  coasting  captains  knew  too  well  his 
humor  and  their  own  interests;  they  joined  in  his  revels,  1  ley 
drank,  and  sang,  and  whooped,  and  hiccuped,  until  they  all 
got  "half  seas  over,"  and  then  affairs  went  on  swimmingly. 

An  awful  warning  to  all  "  flinchers"  occurred  shortly  before 
Mr.  Hunt's  arrival.  A  young  naval  officer  had  recently  been 
sent  out  by  the  emperor  to  take  command  of  one  of  the  com 
pany's  vessels.  The  governor,  as  usual,  had  him  at  his  "  pros 
nics,"  and  plied  him  with  fiery  potations.  The  young  man 
stood  on  the  defensive  until  the  old  count's  ire  was  completely 
kindled ;  he  carried  his  point,  and  made  the  greenhorn  tipsy, 
willy  nilly.  In  proportion  as  they  grew  fuddled  they  grew 
noisy,  they  quarrelled  in  their  cups;  the  youngster  paid  old 
Baranhorl:  in  his  own  coin  by  rating'  him  soundly ;  in  reward 
for  which,  when  sober,  he  was  taken  the  rounds  of  four  pick 
ets,  and  received  seventy-nine  lashes,  taled  out  with  Russian 
punctuality  of  punishment. 

Such  was  the  old  grizzled  bear  with  whom  Mr.  Hunt  had  to 
do  his  business.  How  he  managed  to  cope  with  his  humor; 
whether  he  pledged  himself  in  raw  rum  and  blazing  punch, 
and  ' '  clinked  the  can"  with  him  as  they  made  their  bargains, 
does  not  appear  upon  record;  we  must  infer,  however,  from 
his  general  observations  on  the  absolute  sway  of  this  hard- 
drinking  potentate,  that  he  had  to  conform  to  the  customs  of 
his  court,  and  that  their  business  transactions  presented  a 
maudlin  mixture  of  punch  and  peltry. 


352  ASTORIA. 

The  greatest  annoyance  to  Mr.  Hunt,  however,  was  the  delay 
to  which  he  was  subjected  in  disposing  of  the  cargo  of  the 
ship  and  getting  the  requisite  returns.  With  all  the  gover 
nor's  devotions  to  the  bottle,  he  never  obfuscated  his  faculties 
sufficiently  to  lose  sight  of  his  interest,  and  is  represented  by 
Mr.  Hunt  as  keen,  not  to  say  crafty,  at  a  bargain  as  the  most 
arrant  water  drinker.  A  long  time  was  expended  negotiating 
with  him,  and  by  the  time  the  bargain  was  concluded,  the 
month  of  October  had  arrived.  To  add  to  the  delay  he  was  to 
be  paid  for  his  cargo  in  seal  skins.  Now  it  so  happened  that 
there  was  none  of  this  kind  of  peltry  at  the  fort  of  old  Baran- 
hoff.  It  was  necessary,  therefore,  for  Mr.  Hunt  to  proceed  to 
a  seal-catching  establishment,  which  the  Russian  company  had 
at  the  island  of  St.  Paul  in  the  sea  of  Kamsehatka.  He  accord 
ingly  set  sail  on  the  4th  of  October,  after  having  spent  forty- 
five  days  at  New  Archangel,  boosing  and  bargaining  with  its 
roystering  commander,  and  right  glad  was  he  to  escape  from 
the  clutches  of  this  "  old  man  of  the  sea." 

The  Beaver  arrived  at  St.  Paul's  on  the  31st  of  October;  by 
which  time,  according  to  arrangement,  he  ought  to  have  been 
back  at  Astoria.  The  island  of  St.  Paul's  is  in  latitude  57°  N., 
longitude  170°  or  171°  W.  Its  shores  in  certain  places,  and  at 
certain  seasons,  are  covered  with  seals,  while  others  are  play 
ing  about  in  the  water.  Of  these,  the  Russians  take  only  the 
small  ones,  from  seven  to  ten  months  old,  and  carefully  select 
the  males,  giving  the  females  their  freedom,  that  the  breed 
may  not  be  diminished.  The  islanders,  however,  kill  the  large 
ones  for  provisions,  and  for  skins  wherewith  to  cover  their 
canoes.  They  drive  them  from  the  shore  over  the  rocks,  until 
within  a,  short  distance  of  their  habitations,  where  they  kill 
them.  By  this  means  they  save  themselves  the  trouble  of 
carrying  the  skins,  and  have  the  flesh  at  hand.  This  is  thrown 
in  heaps,  and  when  the  season  for  skinning  is  over,  they  take 
out  the  entrails  and  make  one  heap  of  the  blubber.  This  with 
drift-wood  serves  for  fuel,  for  the  island  is  entirely  destitute  of 
trees.  They  make  another  heap  of  the  flesh,  which,  with  the 
eggs  of  sea-fowls,  preserved  in  oil,  an  occasional  sea-lion,  a  few 
ducks  in  winter,  and  some  wild  roots,  compose  their  food. 

Mr.  Hunt  found  seven  Russians  at  the  island,  and  one  hun 
dred  hunters,  natives  of  Oonalaska,  with  their  families.  They 
lived  in  cabins  that  looked  like  canoes;  being,  for  the  most 
part,  formed  of  the  jaw-bone  of  a  whale,  put  up  as  rafters, 
across  which  were  laid  pieces  of  drift-wood  covered  over  with 


ASTORIA.  353 

long  grass,  the  skins  of  large  sea  animals,  and  earth,  so  as  to 
be  quite  comfortable,  in  despite  of  the  rigors  of  the  climate ; 
though  we  are  told  they  had  as  ancient  and  fish-like  an  odor, 
"as  had  the  quarters  of  Jonah,  when  he  lodged  within  the 
whale." 

In  one  of  these  odoriferous  mansions  Mr.  Hunt  occasionally 
took  up  his  abode,  that  he  might  be  at  hand  to  hasten  the 
loading  of  the  ship.  The  operation,  however,  was  somewhat 
slow,  for  it  was  necessary  to  overhaul  and  inspect  every  pack 
to  prevent  imposition,  and  the  peltries  had  then  to  be  conveyed 
in  large  boats,  made  of  skins,  to  the  ship,  which  was  some 
little  distance  from  the  shore,  standing  off  and  on. 

One  night,  while  Mr.  Hunt  was  on  shore,  with  some  others 
of  the  crew,  there  arose  a  terrible  gale.  When  the  day  broke 
the  ship  was  not  to  be  seen.  He  watched  for  her  with  anxious 
eyes  until  night,  but  in  vain.  Day  after  day  of  boisterous 
storms  and  howling  wintry  weather  were  passed  in  watchful 
ness  and  solicitude.  Nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  a  dark  and 
angry  sea,  and  a  scowling  northern  sky ;  and  at  night  he  re 
tired  within  the  jaws  of  the  whale,  and  nestled  disconsolately 
among  seal  skins. 

At  length,  on  the  13th  of  November,  the  Beaver  made  her 
appearance,  much  the  worse  for  the  stormy  conflicts  she  had 
sustained  in  those  hyperborean  seas.  She  had  been  obliged  to 
carry  a  press  of  sail  in  heavy  gales,  to  be  able  to  hold  her 
ground,  and  had  consequently  sustained  great  damage  in  her 
canvas  and  rigging.  Mr.  Hunt  lost  no  time  in  hurrying  the 
residue  of  the  cargo  on  board  of  her ;  then,  bidding  adieu  to 
his  seal-fishing  friends  and  his  whalebone  habitation,  he  put 
forth  once  more  to  sea. 

He  was  now  for  making  the  best  of  his  way  to  Astoria,  and 
fortunate  would  it  have  been  for  the  interests  of  that  place, 
and  the  interests  of  Mr.  Astor,  had  he  done  so ;  but,  unluckily, 
a  perplexing  question  rose  in  his  mind.  The  sails  and  rigging 
of  the  Beaver  had  been  much  rent  and  shattered  in  the  late 
storm ;  would  she  be  able  to  stand  the  hard  gales  to  be  expected 
in  making  Columbia  River  at  this  season?  Was  it  prudent, 
also,  at  this  boisterous  time  of  the  year,  to  risk  the  valuable 
cargo  which  she  now  had  on  board,  by  crossing  and  recrossiiig 
the  dangerous  bar  of  that  river?  These  doubts  were  probably 
suggested  or  enforced  by  Captain  Sowle,  who,  it  has  already 
been  seen,  was  an  over-cautious,  or  rather  a  timid  seaman, 
and  they  may  have  had  some  weight  with  Mr.  Hunt;  but 


354 

there  were  other  considerations  which  more  strongly  swayed 
his  mind.  The  lateness  of  the  season,  and  the  unforeseen 
delays  the  ship  had  encountered  at  New  Archangel,  and  by 
being  obliged  to  proceed  to  St.  Paul's,  had  put  her  so  much 
back  in  her  calculated  time,  that  there  was  a  risk  of  her  arriv 
ing  so  late  at  Canton  as  to  come  to  a  bad  market,  both  for  the 
sale  of  her  peltries  and  the  purchase  of  a  return  cargo.  He 
considered  it  to  the  interest  of  the  company,  therefore,  that  he 
should  proceed  at  once  to  the  Sandwich  Islands ;  there  wait 
the  arrival  of  the  annual  vessel  from  New  York,  take  passage 
in  her  to  Astoria,  and  suffer  the  Beaver  to  continue  on  to 
Canton. 

On  the  other  hand,  he  was  urged  to  the  other  course  by  his 
engagements ;  by  the  plan  Of  the  voyage  marked  out  for  the 
Beaver,  by  Mr.  Astor;  by  his  inclination  and  the  possibility 
that  the  establishment  might  need  his  presence,  and  by  the 
recollection  that  there  must  already  be  a  large  amount  of 
peltries  collected  at  Astoria,  and  waiting  for  the  return  of  the 
Beaver  to  convey  them  to  the  market. 

These  conflicting  questions  perplexed  and  agitated  his  mind, 
and  gave  rise  to  much  anxious  reflection,  for  he  was  a  coir 
scientious  man,  that  seems  ever  to  have  aimed  at  a  faithful 
discharge  of  his  duties,  and  to  have  had  the  interests  of  his 
employers  earnestly  at  heart.  His  decision  in  the  present 
instance  was  injudicious,  and  proved  unfortunate.  It  was, 
to  bear  away  for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  He  persuaded  himself 
that  it  was  a  matter  of  necessity,  and  that  the  distressed  con 
dition  of  the  ship  left  him  no  other  alternative ;  but  we  rather 
suspect  he  was  so  persuaded  by  the  representations  of  the 
timid  captain.  They  accordingly  stood  for  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  arrived  at  Woahoo,  where  the  ship  underwent  the 
necessary  repairs,  and  again  put  to  sea  on  the  1st  of  January, 
1813,  leaving  Mr.  Hunt  on  the  island. 

We  will  follow  the  Beaver  to  Canton,  as  her  fortunes,  in 
some  measure,  exemplified  the  commanders  of  ships  acting 
contrary  to  orders,  and  as  they  form  a  part  of  the  tissue  of 
cross-purposes  that  marred  the  great  commercial  enterprise 
we  have  undertaken  to  record. 

The  Beaver  arrived  safe  at  Canton,  where  Captain  Sowle 
found  the  letter  of  Mr.  Astor,  giving  him  information  of  the 
war,  and  directing  him  to  convey  the  intelligence  to  Astoria. 
He  wrote  a  reply,  dictated  either  by  timidity  or  obstinacy,  in 
which  he  declined  complying  with  the  orders  of  Mr.  Astor,  but 


ASTORIA.  355 

said  he  would  wait  for  the  return  of  peace,  and  then  come 
home.  The  other  proceedings  of  Captain  Sowle  were  equally 
wrong-headed  and  unlucky.  He  was  offered  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  dollars  for  the  fur  he  had  taken  on  board  at  St. 
Paul's.  The  goods  for  which  it  had  been  procured  cost  but 
twenty-five  thousand  dollars  in  New  York.  Had  he  accepted 
this  offer,  and  reinvested  the  amount  in  nankeens,  which  at 
that  time,  in  consequence  of  the  interruption  to  commerce  by 
the  war,  were  at  two  thirds  of  their  usual  price,  the  whole 
would  have  brought  three  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  New 
York.  It  is  true,  the  war  would  have  rendered  it  unsafe  to 
attempt  the  homeward  voyage,  but  he  might  have  put  the 
goods  in  store  at  Canton,  until  after  the  peace,  and  have  sailed 
without  risk  of  capture  to  Astoria ;  bringing  to  the  partners  at 
that  place  tidings  of  the  great  profits  realized  on  the  outward 
cargo,  and  the  still  greater  to  be  expected  from  the  returns. 
The  news  of  such  a  brilliant  commencement  to  their  under 
taking  would  have  counterbalanced  the  gloomy  tidings  of  the 
war ;  it  would  have  infused  new  spirit  into  them  all,  and  given 
them  courage  and  constancy  to  persevere  in  the  enterprise. 
Captain  Sowle,  however,  refused  the  offer  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  dollars,  and  stood  wavering  and  chaffering  for 
higher  terms.  The  furs  began  to  fall  in  value;  this  only  in 
creased  his  irresolution ;  they  sunk  so  much  that  he  feared  to 
sell  at  all ;  he  borrowed  money  on  Mr.  Astor's  account  at  an 
interest  of  eighteen  per  cent,  and  laid  up  his  ship  to  await  the 
return  of  peace. 

In  the  meanwhile  Mr.  Hunt  soon  saw  reason  to  repent  the 
resolution  he  had  adopted  in  altering  the  destination  of  the 
ship.  His  delay  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  was  prolonged  far  be 
yond  all  expectation.  He  looked  in  vain  for  the  annual  ship  in 
the  spring.  Month  after  month  passed  by,  and  still  she  did  not 
make  her  appearance.  He,  too,  proved  the  danger  of  depart 
ing  from  orders.  Had  he  returned  from  St.  Paul's  to  Astoria, 
all  the  anxiety  and  despondency  about  his  fate,  and  about  the 
whole  course  of  the  undertaking,  would  have  been  obviated. 
The  Beaver  would  have  received  the  furs  collected  at  the  fac 
tory,  and  taken  them  to  Canton,  and  great  gains,  instead  of 
great  losses,  would  have  been  the  result.  The  greatest  blunder, 
however,  was  that  committed  by  Captain  Sowle. 

At  length,  on  the  20th  of  June,  the  ship  Albatross,  Captain 
Smith,  arrived  from  China,  and  brought  the  first  tidings  of  the 
war  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Mr,  Hunt  was  no  longer  in  doubt 


356  ASTORIA. 

and  perplexity  as  to  the  reason  of  the  non-appearance  of  the 
annual  ship.  His  first  thoughts  were  for  the  welfare  of  Astoria, 
and  concluding  that  the  inhabitants  would  probably  be  in  want 
of  provisions,  he  chartered  the  Albatross  for  two  thousand  dol 
lars,  to  land  him,  with  some  supplies,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co 
lumbia,  where  he  arrived,  as  we  have  seen,  on  the  20th  of  Aug 
ust,  after  a  year's  seafaring  that  might  have  furnished  a  chap 
ter  in  the  wanderings  of  Sinbad. 


CHAPTER  LVIII. 

MR.  HUNT  was  overwhelmed  with  surprise  when  he  learnt 
the  resolution  taken  by  the  partners  to  abandon  Astoria,  He 
soon  found,  however,  that  matters  had  gone  too  far,  and  the 
minds  of  his  colleagues  had  become  too  firmly  bent  upon  the 
measure,  to  render  any  opposition  of  avail.  He  was  beset,  too, 
with  the  same  disparaging  accounts  of  the  interior  trade,  and 
of  the  whole  concerns  and  prospects  of  the  company  that  had 
been  rendered  to  Mr.  Astor.  His  own  experience  had  been  full 
of  perplexities  and  discouragements.  He  had  a  conscientious 
anxiety  for  the  interests  of  Mr.  Astor,  and,  not  comprehending 
the  extended  views  of  that  gentleman,  and  his  habit  of  operat 
ing  with  great  amounts,  he  had  from  the  first  been  daunted  by 
the  enormous  expenses  required,  and  had  become  disheartened 
by  the  subsequent  losses  sustained,  which  appeared  to  him  to 
be  ruinous  in  their  magnitude.  By  degrees,  therefore,  he  was 
brought  to  acquiesce  in  the  step  taken  by  his  colleagues,  as 
perhaps  advisable  in  the  exigencies  of  the  case ;  his  only  care 
was  to  wind  up  the  business  with  as  little  further  loss  as  possi 
ble  to  Mr.  Astor. 

A  large  stock  of  valuable  furs  was  collected  at  the  factory, 
which  it  was  necessary  to  get  to  a  market.  There  were  twenty- 
five  Sandwich  Islanders,  also,  in  the  employ  of  the  company, 
whom  they  were  bound  by  express  agreement  to  restore  to 
their  native  country.  For  these  purposes  a  ship  was  necessary. 

The  Albatross  was  bound  to  the  Marquesas,  and  thence  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands.  It  was  resolved  that  Mr.  Hunt  should  sail 
in  her  in  quest  of  a  vessel,  and  should  return,  if  possible,  by 
the  1st  of  January,  bringing  with  him  a  supply  of  provisions. 
Should  anything  occur,  however,  to  prevent  his  return,  an  ar- 


ASTORIA.  357 

rangement  was  to  be  proposed  to  Mr.  M'Tavish,  to  transfer 
such  of  the  men  as  were  so  disposed,  from  the  service  of  the 
American  Fur  Company  into  that  of  the  Northwest,  the  latter 
becoming  responsible  for  the  wages  due  them,  on  receiving  an 
equivalent  in  goods,  from  the  storehouse  of  the  factory.  As  a 
means  of  facilitating  the  dispatch  of  business,  Mr.  M'Dougal 
proposed,  that  in  case  Mr.  Hunt  should  not  return,  the  whole 
arrangement  with  Mr.  M'Tavish  should  be  left  solely  to  him. 
This  was  assented  to,  the  contingency  being  considered  possible, 
but  not  probable. 

It  is  proper  to  note,  that  on  the  first  announcement  by  Mr. 
M'Dougal  of  his  intention  to  break  up  the  establishment,  three 
of  the  clerks,  British  subjects,  had,  with  his  consent,  passed 
into  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  departed  wifch 
Mr.  M'Tavish  for  his  post  in  the  interior. 

Having  arranged  all  these  matters  during  a  sojourn  of  six 
days  at  Astoria,  Mr.  Hunt  set  sail  in  the  Albatross  on  the  26th 
of  August,  and  arrived  without  accident  at  the  Marquesas.  He 
had  not  been  there  long  when  Porter  arrived  in  the  frigate 
Essex,  bringing  in  a  number  of  stout  London  whalers  as  prizes, 
having  made  a  sweeping  cruise  in  the  Pacific.  From  Commo 
dore  Porter  he  received  the  alarming  intelligence  that  the  Brit 
ish  frigate  Phoebe,  with  a  storeship,  mounted  with  battering 
pieces,  calculated  to  attack  forts,  had  arrived  at  Eio  Janeiro, 
where  she  had  been  joined  by  the  sloops  of  war  Cherub  and 
Racoon,  and  that  they  had  all  sailed  in  company  on  the  6th  of 
July  for  the  Pacific,  bound,  as  it  was  supposed,  to  Columbia 
River. 

Here,  then,  was  the  death-warrant  of  unfortunate  Astoria! 
The  anxious  mind  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  in  greater  perplexity  than 
ever.  He  had  been  eager  to  extricate  the  property  of  Mr.  Astor 
from  a  failing  concern  with  as  little  loss  as  possible ;  there  was 
now  danger  that  the  whole  would  be  swallowed  up.  How  was 
it  to  be  snatched  from  the  gulf  ?  It  was  impossible  to  charter 
a  ship  for  the  purpose,  now  that  a  British  squadron  was  on  its 
way  to  the  river.  He  applied  to  purchase  one  of  the  whale- 
ships  brought  in  by  Commodore  Porter.  The  commodore  de 
manded  twenty-five  thousand  dollars  for  her.  The  price  ap 
peared  exorbitant,  and  no  bargain  could  be  made.  Mr.  Hunt 
then  urged  the  commodore  to  fit  out  one  of  his  prizes,  and  send 
her  to  Astoria  to  bring  off  the  property  and  part  of  the  people, 
but  he  declined,  "from  want  of  authority."  He  assured  Mr. 
Hunt,  however,  that  he  would  endeavor  to  fall  in  with  the 


358  ASTORIA. 

enemy,  or,  should  he  hear  of  their  having  certainly  gone  to  the 
Columbia,  he  would  either  follow  or  anticipate  them,  should 
his  circumstances  warrant  such  a  step. 

In  this  tantalizing  state  of  suspense,  Mr.  Hunt  was  detained 
at  the  Marquesas  until  November  23d,  when  he  proceeded  in 
the  Albatross  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  He  still  cherished  a 
faint  hope  that,  notwithstanding  the  war,  and  all  other  dis 
couraging  circumstances,  the  annual  ship  might  have  been  sent 
by  Mr.  Astor,  and  might  have  touched  at  the  islands,  and  pro 
ceeded  to  the  Columbia.  He  knew  the  pride  and  interest  taken 
by  that  gentleman  in  his  great  enterprise,  and  that  he  would 
not  be  deterred  by  dangers  and  difficulties  from  prosecuting  it ; 
much  less  would  he  leave  the  infant  establishment  without 
succor  and  support  in  the  time  of  trouble.  In  this,  we  have 
seen,  he  did  but  justice  to  Mr.  Astor ;  and  we  must  now  turn 
to  notice  the  cause  of  the  non-arrival  of  the  vessel  which  he 
had  dispatched  with  reinforcements  and  supplies.  Her  voyage 
forms  another  chapter  of  accidents  in  this  eventful  story. 

The  Lark  sailed  from  New  York  on  the  6th  of  March,  1813, 
and  proceeded  prosperously  on  her  voyage,  until  within  a  few 
degrees  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Here  a  gale  sprang  up  that 
soon  blew  with  tremendous  violence.  The  Lark  was  a  staunch 
and  noble  ship,  and  for  a  time  buffeted  bravely  with  the  storm. 
Unluckily,  however,  she  "  broached  to, "and  was  struck  by  a 
heavy  sea,  that  hove  her  on  her  beam-ends.  The  helm,  too, 
was  knocked  to  leeward,  all  command  of  the  vessel  was  lost, 
and  another  mountain  wave  completely  overset  her.  Orders 
were  given  to  cut  away  the  masts.  In  the  hurry  and  confusion 
the  boats  were  also  unfortunately  cut  adrift.  The  wreck  then 
righted,  but  was  a  mere  hulk,  full  of  water,  with  a  heavy  sea 
washing  over  it,  and  all  the  hatches  off.  On  mustering  the 
crew,  one  man  was  missing,  who  was  discovered  below  in  the 
forecastle,  drowned. 

In  cutting  away  the  masts  it  had  been  utterly  impossible  to 
observe  the  necessary  precaution  of  commencing  with  the  Ice 
rigging,  that  being,  from  the  position  of  the  ship,  completely 
under  water.  The  masts  and  spars,  therefore,  being  linked  to 
the  wreck  by  the  shrouds  and  rigging,  remained  alongside  for 
four  days.  During  all  this  time  the  ship  lay  rolling  in  the 
trough  of  the  sea,  the  heavy  surges  breaking  over  her,  and  the 
spars  heaving  and  banging  to  and  fro,  bruising  the  half- 
drowned  sailors  that  clung  to  the  bowsprits  and  the  stumps  of 
the  masts.  The  sufferings  of  these  poor  fellows  were  intolera- 


ASTORIA.  359 

ble.  They  stood  to  their  waists  in  water,  in  imminent  peril  of 
being  washed  off  by  every  surge.  In  this  position  they  dared 
not  sleep,  lest  they  should  let  go  their  hold  and  be  swept  away. 
The  only  dry  place  on  the  wreck  was  the  bowsprit.  Here  they 
took  turns  to  be  tied  on,  for  half  an  hour  at  a  time,  and  in  this 
way  gained  short  snatches  of  sleep. 

On  the  14th  the  first  mate  died  at  his  post,  and  was  swept  off 
by  the  surges.  On  the  17th  two  seamen,  faint  and  exhausted, 
were  washed  overboard.  The  next  wave  threw  their  bodies 
back  upon  the  deck,  where  they  remained,  swashing  backward 
and  forward,  ghastly  objects  to  the  almost  perishing  survivors. 
Mr.  Ogden,  the  supercargo,  who  was  at  the  bowsprit,  called  to 
the  men  nearest  to  the  bodies  to  fasten  them  to  the  wreck,  as 
a  last  horrible  resource  in  case  of  being  driven  to  extremity  by 
famine ! 

On  the  17th  the  gale  gradually  subsided,  and  the  sea  became 
calm.  The  sailors  now  crawled  feebly  about  the  wreck,  and 
began  to  relieve  it  from  the  main  incumbrances.  The  spars 
were  cleared  away,  the  anchors  and  guns  heaved  overboard ; 
the  spritsail  yard  was  rigged  for  a  jurymast,  and  a  mizzen- 
topsail  set  upon  it.  A  sort  of  stage  was  made  of  a  few  broken 
spars,  on  which  the  crew  were  raised  above  the  surface  of  the 
water,  so  as  to  be  enabled  to  keep  themselves  dry  and  to  sleep 
comfortably.  Still  their  sufferings  from  hunger  and  thirst 
were  great ;  but  there  was  a  Sandwich  Islander  on  board,  an 
expert  swimmer,  who  found  his  way  into  the  cabin  and  occa 
sionally  brought  up  a  few  bottles  of  wine  and  porter,  and  at 
length  got  into  the  run,  and  secured  a  quarter  cask  of  wine. 
A  little  raw  pork  was  likewise  procured,  and  dealt  out  with  a 
sparing  hand.  The  horrors  of  their  situation  were  increased 
by  the  sight  of  numerous  sharks  prowling  about  the  wreck,  as 
if  waiting  for  their  prey.  On  the  24th  the  cook,  a  black  man, 
died,  and  was  cast  into  the  sea,  when  he  was  instantly  seized 
on  by  these  ravenous  monsters. 

They  had  been  several  days  making  slow  headway  under 
their  scanty  sail,  when,  on  the  25th,  they  came  in  sight  of  land. 
It  was  about  fifteen  leagues  distant,  and  they  remained  two  or 
three  days  drifting  along  in  sight  of  it.  On  the  28th  they  de 
scried  to  their  great  transport,  a  canoe  approaching,  managed 
by  natives.  They  came  alongside,  and  brought  a  most  welcome 
supply  of  potatoes.  They  informed  them  that  the  land  they 
had  made  was  one  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  The  second  mate 
and  one  of  the  seamen  went  on  shore  in  the  canoe  for  water 


360  ASTORIA. 

and  provisions,  and  to  procure  aid  from  the  islanders,  in  towing 
the  wreck  into  a  harbor. 

Neither  of  the  men  returned,  nor  was  any  assistance  sent 
from  shore.  The -next  day,  ten  or  twelve  canoes  came  along 
side,  but  roamed  round  the  wreck  like  so  many  sharks,  and 
would  render  no  aid  in  towing  her  to  land. 

The  sea  continued  to  breakover  the  vessel  with  such  violence 
that  it  was  impossible  to  stand  at  the  helm  without  the  assist 
ance  of  lashings.  The  crew  were  now  so  worn  down  by  fam 
ine  and  thirst  that  the  captrin  saw  it  would  be  impossible  for 
them  to  withstand  the  breaking  of  the  sea,  when  the  ship 
should  ground;  he  deemed  the  only  chance  for  their  lives, 
therefore,  was  to  get  to  land  in  the  canoes,  and  stand  ready  to 
receive  and  protect  the  wreck  when  she  should  drift  to  shore. 
Accordingly,  they  all  got  safe  to  land,  but  had  scarcely  touched 
the  beach  when  they  were  surrounded  by  the  natives,  who 
stripped  them  almost  naked.  The  name  of  this  inhospitable 
island  was  Tahoorowa. 

In  the  course  of  the  night  the  wreck  came  drifting  to  the 
strand,  with  the  surf  thundering  around  her,  and  shortly  after 
ward  bilged.  On  the  following  morning  numerous  casks  of 
provisions  floated  on  shore.  The  natives  staved  them  for  the 
sake  of  the  iron  hoops,  but  would  not  allow  the  crew  to  help 
themselves  to  the  contents,  or  to  go  on  board  of  the  wreck. 

As  the  crew  were  in  want  of  everything,  and  as  it  might  be 
a  long  time  before  any  opportunity  occurred  for  them  to  get 
away  from  these  islands,  Mr.  Ogden,  as  soon  as  he  could  get 
a  chance,  made  his  way  to  the  island  of  Owyhce,  and  en 
deavored  to  make  some  arrangement  with  the  king  for  the  re 
lief  of  his  companions  in  misfortune. 

The  illustrious  Tamaahmaah,  as  we  have  shown  on  a  former 
occasion,  was  a  shrewd  bargainer,  and  in  the  present  instance 
proved  himself  an  experienced  wrecker.  His  negotiations 
with  M'Dougal  and  the  other  "  Eris  of  the  great  American  Fur 
Company"  had  but  little  effect  on  present  circumstances,  and 
he  proceeded  to  avail  himself  of  their  misfortunes.  He  agreed 
to  furnish  the  crew  with  provisions  during  their  stay  in  his 
territories,  and  to  return  to  them  ah1  their  clothing  that  could 
be  found,  but  he  stipulated  that  the  wreck  should  be  abandoned 
to  him  as  a  waif  cast  by  fortune  on  his  shores.  With  these 
conditions  Mr.  Ogden  was  fain  to  comply.  Upon  this  the 
great  Tamaahmaah  deputed  his  favorite,  John  Young,  the  tar- 
pawlin  governor  of  Owyhee,  to  proceed  with  a  number  of  the 


ASTORIA.  861 

royal  guards,  and  take  possession  of  the  wreck  on  behalf  of  the 
crown.  This  was  done  accordingly,  and  the  property  and 
crew  were  removed  to  Owyhee.  The  royal  bounty  appears  to 
have  been  but  scanty  in  its  dispensations.  The  crew  fared  but 
meagrely ;  though  on.  reading  the  journal  of  the  voyage  it  is 
singular  to  find  them,  after  all  the  hardships  they  had  suffered, 
so  sensitive  about  petty  inconveniences  as  to  exclaim  against 
the  king  as  a  "savage  monster,"  for  refusing  them  a  "pot  to 
cook  in,"  and  denying  Mr.  Ogden  the  use  of  a  knife  and  fork 
which  had  been  saved  from  the  wreck. 

Such  was  the  unfortunate  catastrophe  of  the  Lark ;  had  she 
reached  her  destination  in  safety,  affairs  at  Astoria  might  have 
taken  a  different  course.  A  strange  fatality  seems  to  have  afc 
tended  all  the  expeditions  by  sea,  nor  were  those  by  land  much 
less  disastrous. 

Captain  Northrop  was  still  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  on  De 
cember  20th,  when  Mr.  Hunt  arrived.  The  latter  immediately 
purchased  for  ten  thousand  dollars  a  brig  called  the  Pedler, 
and  put  Captain  Northrop  in  -command  of  her.  They  set  sail 
for  Astoria  on  the  22d  of  January,  intending  to  remove  the 
property  from  thence  as  speedily  as  possible  to  the  Russian 
settlements  on  the  northwest  coast,  to  prevent  it  from  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  British.  Such  were  the  orders  of  Mr. 
Astor,  sent  out  by  the  Lark. 

We  will  now  leave  Mr.  Hunt  on  his  voyage,  and  return  to 
see  what  has  taken  place  at  Astoria  during  his  absence. 


CHAPTER  LIX. 

ON  the  2d  of  October,  about  five  weeks  after  Mr.  Hunt  had 
sailed  in  the  Albatross  from  Astoria,  Mr.  M'Kenzie  set  off,  with 
two  canoes  and  twelve  men,  for  the  posts  of  Messrs.  Stuart  and 
Clarke,  to  apprise  them  of  the  new  arrangements  determined 
upon  in  the  recent  conference  of  the  partners  at  the  factory. 

He  had  not  ascended  the  river  a  hundred  miles,  when  he 
met  a  squadron  of  ten  canoes,  sweeping  merrily  down  under 
British  colors,  the  Canadian  oarsmen,  as  usual,  in  full  song. 

It  was  an  armament  fitted  out  by  M'Tavish,  who  had  with 
him  Mr.  J.  Stuart,  another  partner  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
together  with  some  clerks  and  sixty-eight  men— seventy -five 


362  ASTORIA. 

souls  in  all.  They  had  heard  of  the  frigate  Phoebe  and  the 
Isaac  Todd  being  on  the  high  seas,  and  were  on  their  way 
down  to  await  their  arrival.  In  one  of  the  canoes  Mr.  Clarke 
came  passenger,  the  alarming  intelligence  having  brought  him 
down  from  his  post  on  the  Spokan.  Mr.  M'Kenzie  immedi 
ately  determined  to  return  with  him  to  Astoria,  and,  veering 
about,  the  two  parties  encamped  together  for  the  night.  The 
leaders,  qc  course,  observed  a  due  decorum,  but  some  of  the 
subalterns  could  not  restrain  their  chuckling  exultation,  boast 
ing  that  they  would  soon  plant  the  British  standard  on  the 
walls  of  Astoria,  and  drive  the  Americans  out  of  the  country. 

In  the  course  of  the  evening  Mr.  M'Kenzie  had  a  secret  con 
ference  with  Mr.  Clarke,  in  which  they  agreed  to  set  off  pri 
vately,  before  daylight,  and  get  down  in  time  to  apprise 
M'Dougal  of  the  approach  of  these  Northwesters.  The  latter, 
however,  were  completely  on  the  alert;  just  as  M'Kenzie's 
canoes  were  about  to  push  off,  they  were  joined  by  a  couple 
from  the  Northwest  squadron,  in  which  was  M'Tavish  with 
two  clerks  and  eleven  men.  With  these  he  intended  to  push 
forward  and  make  arrangements,  leaving  the  rest  of  the  con 
voy,  in  which  was  a  large  quantity  of  furs,  to  await  his  orders. 

The  two  parties  arrived  at  Astoria  on  the  7th  of  October. 
The  Northwesters  encamped  under  the  guns  of  the  fort,  and 
displayed  the  British  colors.  The  young  men  in  the  fort,  na 
tives  of  the  United  States,  were  on  the  point  of  hoisting  the 
American  flag,  but  were  forbidden  by  Mr.  M'Dougal.  They 
were  astonished  at  such  a  prohibition,  and  were  exceedingly 
galled  by  the  tone  and  manner  assumed  by  the  clerks  and  re 
tainers  of  the  Northwest  Company,  who  ruffled  about  in  that 
swelling  and  braggart  style  which  grows  up  among  these 
heroes  of  the  wilderness ;  they,  in  fact,  considered  themselves 
lords  of  the  ascendant,  and  regarded  the  hampered  and  har 
assed  Astorians  as  a  conquered  people. 

On  the  following  day  M'Dougal  convened  the  clerks,  and 
read  to  them  an  extract  of  a  letter  from  his  uncle,  Mr.  Angus 
Shaw,  one  of  the  principal  partners  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
announcing  the  coming  of  the  Phoebe  and  Isaac  Todd,  ' '  to  take 
and  destroy  everything  American  on  the  northwest  coast." 

This  intelligence  was  received  without  dismay  by  such  of  the 
clerks  as  were  natives  of  the  United  States.  They  had  felt  in 
dignant  at  seeing  their  national  flag  struck  by  a  Canadian  com 
mander,  and  the  British  flag  flowed,  as  it  were,  in  their  faces. 
They  had  been  stung  to  the  quick,  also,  by  the  vaunting  airs 


ASTORIA.  363 

assumed  by  the  Northwesters.  In  this  mood  of  mind  they 
would  willingly  have  nailed  their  colors  to  the  staff,  and  defied 
the  frigate.  She  could  not  come  within  many  miles  of  the 
fort,  they  ob.3erved,  and  any  boats  she  might  send  could  be 
destroyed  by  their  cannon. 

There  were  cooler  and  more  calculating  spirits,  however, 
who  had  the  control  of  affairs,  and  felt  nothing  of  the  patri 
otic  pride  and  indignation  of  these  youths.  The  extract  of  the 
letter  had,  apparently,  been  read  by  M'Dougal  merely  to  pre 
pare  the  way  for  a  preconcerted  stroke  of  management.  On 
the  same  day  Mr.  M'Tavish  proposed  to  purchase  the  whole 
stock  of  goods  and  furs  belonging  to  the  company,  both  at  As 
toria  and  in  the  interior,  at  cost  and  charges.  Mr.  M'Dougal 
undertook  to  comply,  assuming  the  whole  management  of  the 
negotiation  in  virtue  of  the  power  vested  in  him,  in  case  of  the 
non-arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt.  That  power,  however,  was  limited 
and  specific,  and  did  not  extend  to  an  operation  of  this  nature 
and  extent;  no  objection,  however,  was  made  to  his  assump 
tion,  and  he  and  M'Tavish  soon  made  a  preliminary  arrange 
ment,  perfectly  satisfactory  to  the  latter. 

Mr,  Stuart  and  the  reserve  party  of  Northwesters  arrived, 
shortly  afterward,  and  encamped  with  M'Tavish.  The  former 
exclaimed  loudly  against  the  terms  of  the  arrangement,  and 
insisted  upon  a  reduction  of  the  prices.  New  negotiations  had 
now  to  be  entered  into.  The  demands  of  the  Northwesters 
were  made  in  a  peremptory  tone,  and  they  seemed  disposed  to 
dictate  like  conquerors.  The  Americans  looked  on  with  indig 
nation  and  impatience.  They  considered  M'Dougal  as  acting, 
if  not  a  perfidious,  certainly  a  craven  part.  He  was  continu 
ally  repairing  to  the  camp  to  negotiate,  instead  of  keeping 
within  his  walls  and  receiving  overtures  in  his  fortress.  His 
case,  they  observed,  was  not  so  desperate  as  to  excuse  such 
crouching.  He  might,  in  fact,  hold  out  for  his  own  terms. 
The  Northwest  party  had  lost  their  ammunition;  they  had  no 
goods  to  trade  with  the  natives  for  provisions ;  and  they  were 
so  destitute  that  M'Dougal  had  absolutely  to  feed  them,  while 
he  negotiated  with  them.  He,  on  the  contrary,  was  well 
lodged  and  victualled ;  had  sixty  men  with  arms,  ammunition, 
boats,  and  everything  requisite  either  for  defence  or  retreat. 
The  party,  beneath  the  guns  of  his  fort,  were  at  his  mercy; 
should  an  enemy  appear  in  the  offing,  he  could  pack  up  the 
most  valuable  part  of  the  property,  and  retire  to  some  place  of 
concealment,  or  make  off  for  the  interior. 


364  ASTORIA, 

These  considerations,  however,  had  no  weight  with  Mr. 
M'Dougal,  or  were  overruled  by  other  motives.  The  terms  ot 
sale  were  lowered  by  him  to  the  standard  fixed  by  Mr.  Stuart, 
and  an  agreement  executed,  on  the  16th  of  October,  by  which 
the  furs  and  merchandise  of  all  kinds  in  the  country,  belong 
ing  to  Mr.  Astor,  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  Northwest 
Company  at  about  a  third  of  their  real  value.*  A  safe  passage 
through  the  Northwest  posts  was  guaranteed  to  such  as  did  not 
choose  to  enter  into  the  service  of  that  company,  and  the 
amount  of  wages  due  to  them  was  to  be  deducted  from  the 
price  paid  for  Astoria. 

The  conduct  and  motives  of  Mr.  M'Dougal,  throughout  the 
whole  of  this  proceeding,  have  been  strongly  questioned  by  the 
other  partners.  He  has  been  accused  of  availing  himself  of  a 
wrong  construction  of  powers  vested  in  him  at  his  own  request, 
and  of  sacrificing  the  interests  of  Mr.  Astor  to  the  Northwest 
Company,  under  the  promise  or  hope  of  advantage  to  himself. 

He  always  insisted,  however,  that  he  made  the  best  bargain 
for  Mr.  Astor  that  circumstances  would  permit;  the  frigate 
being  hourly  expected,  in  which  case  the  whole  property  of 
that  gentleman  would  be  liable  to  capture.  That  the  return 
of  Mr.  Hunt  was  problematical ;  the  frigate  intending  to  cruise 
along  the  coast  for  two  years,  and  clear  it  of  all  American 
vessels.  He  moreover  averred,  and  M'Tavish  corroborated  his 
averment  by  certificate,  that  he  proposed  an  arrangement  to 
that  gentleman,  by  which  the  furs  were  to  be  sent  to  Canton, 

*  Not  quite  $40,000  were  allowed  for  furs  worth  upward  of  $100,000.  Beaver  was 
valued  at  two  dollars  per  skin,  though  worth  five  dollars.  Land  otter  at  fifty  cents, 
though  worth  five  dollars.  Sea  otter  at  twelve  dollars,  worth  from  forty-five  to 
sixty  dollars;  and  for  several  kinds  of  furs  nothing  was  allowed.  Moreover,  the 
goods  and  merchandise  for  the  Indian  trade  ought  to  have  brought  three  times  the 
amount  for  which  they  were  sold. 

The  following  estimate  has  been  made  of  the  articles  on  hand,  and  the  prices: 
17,705  Ibs.  beaver  parchment,  valued  at  $2  00,  worth  $5  00 

465  old  coat  beaver "  166,  350 

907  land  otter     "  50,  500 

68seaotter "  1200,  $45-6000 

20       "          "  500,  2500 

Nothing  was  allowed  for 

179  mink  skins,  worth  tach 40 

40 


22  raccoon    . . . 

28  lynx 

18  fox 

106    "  

71  black  bear . . 
16  grizzly  bear. 


.$200 
.  1  00 
.  1  50 
.  400 
1000 


ASTORIA.  365 

and  sold  there  at  Mr.  Astor's  risk,  and  for  his  account ;  but  the 
proposition  was  not  acceded  to. 

Notwithstanding  all  his  representations,  several  of  the  per 
sons  present  at  the  transaction,  and  acquainted  with  the  whole 
course  of  the  affair,  and  among  the  number  Mr.  M'Kenzie  him 
self,  his  occasional  coadjutor,  remained  firm  in  the  belief  that 
he  acted  a  hollow  part.  Neither  did  he  succeed  in  exculpating 
himself  to  Mr.  Astor;  that  gentleman  declaring,  in  a  lette^ 
written  some  time  afterward,  to  Mr.  Hunt,  that  he  considered 
the  property  virtually  given  away.  ' '  Had  our  place  and  our 
property,"  he  adds,  "been  fairly  captured,  I  should  have  pre 
ferred  it.  I  should  not  feel  as  if  I  were  disgraced." 

All  these  may  be  unmerited  suspicions ;  but  it  certainly  is 
a  circumstance  strongly  corroborative  of  them,  that  Mr. 
M'Dougal,  shortly  after  concluding  this  agreement,  became 
a  member  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  received  a  share 
productive  of  a  handsome  income. 


CHAPTER  LX. 

ON  the  morning  of  the  30th  of  November,  a  sail  was  descried 
doubling  Cape  Disappointment.  It  came  to  anchor  in  Baker's 
Bay,  and  proved  to  be  a  ship  of  war.  Of  what  nation?  was 
now  the  anxious  inquiry.  If  English,  why  did  it  come  alone? 
where  was  the  merchant  vessel  that  was  to  have  accompanied 
it?  If  American,  what  was  to  become  of  the  newly  acquired 
possession  of  the  Northwest  Company? 

In  this  dilemma,  M'Tavish,  in  all  haste,  loaded  two  barges 
with  all  the  packages  of  furs  bearing  the  mark  of  the  North 
west  Company,  and  made  off  for  Tongue  Point,  three  miles  up 
the  river.  There  he  was  to  await  a  preconcerted  signal  from 
M'Dougal  on  ascertaining  the  character  of  the  ship.  If  it 
be  American,  M'Tavish  would  have  a  fair  start,  and  could  bear 
off  his  rich  cargo  to  the  interior.  It  is  singular  that  this  prompt 
mode  of  conveying  valuable,  but  easily  transportable  effects 
beyond  the  reach  of  a  hostile  ship  should  not  have  suggested 
itself  while  the  property  belonged  to  Mr.  Astor. 

In  the  meantime  M'Dougal,  who  still  remained  nominal 
chief  at  the  fort,  launched  a  caroe,  manned  by  men  recently  in 
the  employ  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  steered  for  the 
ship.  On  the  way  he  instructed  his  men  to  pass  themselves 


366  ASTORIA. 

for  Americans  or  Englishmen,  according  to  the  exigencies  of 
the  case. 

The  vessel  proved  to  be  the  British  sloop-of-\var  Racoon,  of 
twenty-six  guns  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  men,  commanded 
by  Captain  Black.  According  to  the  account  of  that  officer, 
the  frigate  Phoebe,  and  the  two  sloops-of-war  Cherub  and 
Racoon,  had  sailed  in  convoy  of  the  Isaac  Todd,  from  Rio 
Janeiro.  On  board  of  the  Phoebe  Mr.  John  M'Donald,  a  part 
ner  of  the  Northwest  Company,  embarked  as  passenger,  to 
profit  by  the  anticipated  catastrophe  at  Astoria.  The  convoy 
was  separated  by  stress  of  weather  off  Cape  Horn.  The  three 
ships  of  war  came  together  again  at  the  island  of  Juan  Fernan 
dez,  their  appointed  rendezvous,  but  waited  in  vain  for  the 
Isaac  Todd. 

In  the  meantime  intelligence  was  received  of  the  mischief 
that  Commodore  Porter  was  doing  among  the  British  whale- 
ships.  Commodore  Hillyer  immediately  set  sail  in  quest  of 
him,  with  the  Phoebe  and  the  Cherub,  transferring  Mr.  M'Don 
ald  to  the  Racoon,  and  ordering  that  vessel  to  proceed  to  the 
Columbia. 

The  officers  of  the  Racoon  were  in  high  spirits.  The  agents 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  in  instigating  the  expedition,  had 
talked  of  immense  booty  to  be  made  by  the  fortunate  captors 
of  Astoria.  Mr.  M'Donald  had  kept  up  the  excitement  during 
the  voyage,  so  that  not  a  midshipman  but  revelled  in  dreams 
of  ample  prize-money,  nor  a  lieutenant  that  would  have  sold 
his  chance  for  a  thousand  pounds.  Their  disappointment, 
therefore,  may  easily  be  conceived,  when  they  learned  that 
their  warlike  attack  upon  Astoria  had  been  forestalled  by  a 
snug  commercial  arrangement;  that  their  anticipated  booty 
had  become  British  property  in  the  regular  course  of  traffic, 
and  that  all  this  had  been  effected  by  the  very  company  which 
had  been  instrumental  in  getting  them  sent  on  what  they  now 
stigmatized  as  a  fool's  errand.  They  felt  as  if  they  had  been 
duped  and  made  tools  of,  by  a  set  of  shrewd  men  of  traffic,  who 
had  employed  them  to  crack  the  nut  while  they  carried  off  the 
kernel.  In  a  word,  M'Dougal  found  himself  so  ungraciously  re 
ceived  by  his  countrymen  on  board  of  the  ship,  that  he  was  glad 
to  cut  short  his  visit  and  return  to  shore.  He  was  busy  at  the 
fort  making  preparations  for  the  reception  of  the  captain  of  the 
Racoon,  when  his  one-eyed  Indian  father-in-law  made  his  ap 
pearance,  with  a  train  of  Chinook  warriors,  all  painted  and 
equipped  in  warlike  style. 


ASTORIA.  367 

Old  Comcomly  had  behold,  with  dismay,  the  arrival  of  a 
"big  war  canoe"  displaying  the  British  flag.  The  shrewd  old 
savage  had  become  something  of  a  politician  in  the  course  of 
his  daily  visits  at  the  fort.  He  knew  of  the  war  existing  be 
tween  the  nations,  but  knew  nothing  of  the  arrangement  be 
tween  M'Dougal  and  M'Tavish.  He  trembled,  therefore,  for 
the  power  of  his  white  son-in-law  and  the  new-fledged  grandeur 
of  his  daughter,  and  assembled  his  warriors  in  all  haste. 
"King  George,"  said  he,  "has  sent  his  great  canoe  to  destroy 
the  iort,  and  make  slaves  of  all  the  inhabitants.  Shall  we  suf 
fer  it?  The  Americans  are  the  first  white  men  that  have  fixed 
themselves  in  the  land.  They  have  treated  us  like  brothers. 
Their  great  chief  has  taken  my  daughter  to  be  his  squaw:  we 
are,  -therefore,  as  one  people." 

His  warriors  all  determined  to  stand  by  the  Americans  to  the 
last,  and  to  this  effect  they  came  painted  and  armed  for  battle. 
Comcomly  made  a  spirited  war-speech  to  his  son-in-law,  He 
offered  to  kill  every  one  cf  King  George's  men  that  should  at 
tempt  to  land.  It  was  an  easy  matter.  The  ship  could  not 
approach  within  six  miles  of  the  fort;  the  crew  could  only  land 
in  boats.  The  woods  reached  to  the  water's  edge ;  in  these,  he 
and  his  warriors  would  conceal  themselves,  and  shoot  down 
the  enemy  as  fast  as  they  put  foot  on  shore. 

M'Dougal  was,  doubtless,  properly  sensible  of  this  parental 
devotion  on  the  part  of  his  savage  father-in-law,  and  perhaps  a 
little  rebuked  by  the  game  spirit  so  opposite  to  his  own.  He 
assured  Comcomly,  however,  that  his  solicitude  for  the  safety 
of  himself  and  the  princess  was  superfluous;  as,  though  the 
ship  belonged  to  King  George,  her  crew  would  not  injure  the 
Americans,  or  their  Indian  allies.  He  advised  him  and  his 
warriors,  therefore,  to  lay  aside  their  weapons  and  war  shirts, 
wash  off  the  paint  from  their  faces  and  bodies,  and  appear  like 
clean  and  civil  savages  to  receive  the  strangers  courteously. 

Comcomly  was  sorely  puzzled  at  this  advice,  which  accorded 
so  little  with  his  Indian  notions  of  receiving  a  hostile  nation ; 
and  it  was  only  after  repeated  and  positive  assurances  of  the 
amicable  intentions  of  the  strangers  that  he  wa?  induced  to 
lower  his  fighting  tone.  He  said  something  to  his  warriors 
explanatory  of  this  singular  posture  of  affairs,  and  in  vindica 
tion,  perhaps,  of  the  pacific  temper  of  his  son-in-law.  They  all 
gave  a  shrug  and  an  Indian  grunt  of  acquiescence,  and  went 
off  culkily  to  their  village,  to  lay  aside  their  weapons  for  the 
present. 


368  ASTORIA. 

The  proper  arrangements  being  made  for  the  reception  of 
Captain  Black,  that  officer  caused  his  ship's  boats  to  be  manned, 
and  landed  with  befitting  state  at  Astoria.  From  the  talk  that 
had  been  made  by  the  Northwest  Company  of  the  strength  of 
the  place,  and  the  armament  they  had  required  to  assist  in  its 
reduction,  he  expected  to  find  a  fortress  of  some  importance. 
When  he  beheld  nothing  but  stockades  and  bastions,  calculated 
for  defence  against  naked  savages,  he  felt  an  emotion  of  indig 
nant  surprise,  mingled  with  something  of  the  ludicrous.  "Is 
this  the  fort,"  cried  he,  "about  which  I  have  heard  so  much 
talking?  D— n  me,  but  I'd  batter  it  down  in  two  hours  with  a 
four-pounder !" 

When  he  learned,  however,  the  amount  of  rich  furs  that  had 
been  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Northwesters,  he  was  out 
rageous,  and  insisted  that  an  inventory  should  be  taken  of  all 
the  property  purchased  of  the  Americans,  "with  a  view  to 
ulterior  measures  in  England,  for  the  recovery  of  the  value 
from  the  Northwest  Company." 

As  he  grew  cool,  however,  he  gave  over  all  idea  of  preferring 
such  a  claim,  and  reconciled  himself,  as  well  as  he  could,  to 
the  idea  of  having  been  forestalled  by  his  bargaining  coadjutors. 

On  the  12th  of  December  the  fate  of  Astoria  was  consum 
mated  by  a  regular  ceremonial.  Captain  Black,  attended  by 
his  officers,  entered  the  fort,  caused  the  British  standard  to  be 
erected,  broke  a  bottle  of  wine,  and  declared,  in  a  loud  voice, 
that  he  took  possession  of  the  establishment  and  of  the  coun 
try,  in  the  name  of  his  Britannic  Majesty,  changing  the  name 
of  Astoria  to  that  of  Fort  George. 

The  Indian  warriors  who  had  offered  their  services  to  repel 
the  strangers  were  present  on  this  occasion.  It  was  explained 
to  them  as  being  a  friendly  arrangement  and  transfer,  but  they 
shook  their  heads  grimly,  and  considered  it  an  act  of  subjuga 
tion  of  their  ancient  allies.  They  regretted  that  they  had  com 
plied  with  M'Dougal's  wishes,  in  laying  aside  their  arms,  and 
remarked  that,  however  the  Americans  might  conceal  the  fact, 
they  were  undoubtedly  all  slaves ;  nor  could  they  be  persuaded 
of  the  contrary  until  they  beheld  the  Racoon  depart  without 
taking  away  any  prisoners. 

As  to  Comcomly,  he  no  longer  prided  himself  upon  his  white 
son-in-law,  but,  whenever  he  was  asked  about  him,  shook  his 
head,  and  replied,  that  his  daughter  had  made  a  mistake,  and, 
instead  of  getting  a  great  warrior  for  a  husband,  had  married 
herself  to  a  squaw. 


ASTORIA.  369 


CHAPTER  LXI. 

HAVING  given  the  catastrophe  at  the  fort  of  Astoria,  it  re 
mains  now  but  to  gather  up  a  few  loose  ends  of  this  widely 
excursive  narrative  and  conclude.  On  the  28th  of  February 
the  brig  Pedler  anchored  in  Columbia  River.  It  will  be  recol 
lected  that  Mr.  Hunt  had  purchased  this  vessel  at  the  Sand 
wich  Islands,  to  take  off  the  furs  collected  at  the  factory,  and 
to  restore  the  Sandwich  Islanders  to  their  homes.  When  that 
gentleman  learned,  however,  the  precipitate  and  summary 
manner  in  which  the  property  had  been  bargained  away  by 
M'Dougal,  he  expressed  his  indignation  in  the  strongest  terms, 
and  determined  to  make  an  effort  to  get  back  the  furs.  As 
soon  as  his  wishes  were  known  in  this  respect,  M'Dougal  came 
to  sound  him  on  behalf  of  the  Northwest  Company,  intimating 
that  he  had  no  doubt  the  peltries  might  be  repurchased  at  an 
advance  of  fifty  per  cent.  This  overture  was  not  calculated  to 
soothe  the  angry  feelings  of  Mr.  Hunt,  and  his  indignation 
was  complete  when  he  discovered  that  M'Dougal  had  become  a 
partner  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  had  actually  been  so 
since  the  23d  of  December.  He  had  kept  his  partnership  a 
secret,  however;  had  retained  the  papers  of  the  Pacific  Fur 
Company  in  his  possession,  and  had  continued  to  act  as  Mr. 
Astor's  agent,  though  two  of  the  parties  of  the  other  company, 
Mr.  M'Kenzie  and  Mr.  Clarke,  were  present.  He  had,  more 
over,  divulged  to  his  new  associates  all  that  he  knew  as  to  Mr. 
Astor's  plans  and  affairs,  and  had  made  copies  of  his  business 
letters  for  their  perusal. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  considered  the  whole  conduct  of  M'Dougal 
hollow  and  collusive.  His  only  thought  was,  therefore,  to  get 
all  the  papers  of  the  concern  out  of  his  hands,  and  bring  the 
business  to  a  close;  for  the  interests  of  Mr.  Astor  were  yet 
completely  at  stake ;  the  drafts  of  the  Northwest  Company  in 
his  favor,  for  the  purchase  money,  not  having  yet  Been  ob 
tained.  With  some  difficulty  he  succeeded  in  getting  posses 
sion  of  the  papers.  The  bills  or  drafts  were  delivered  without 
hesitation.  The  latter  he  remitted  to  Mr.  Astor  by  some  of  his 
associates,  who  Avere  about  to  cross  the  continent  to  New  York. 
This  done,  he  embarked  on  board  the  Pedler,  on  April  3d, 


370  ASTORIA. 

accompanied  by  two  of  the  clerks,  Mr.  Seton  and  Mr.  Halsey, 
and  bade  a  final  adieu  to  Astoria. 

The  next  day,  April  4th,  Messrs.  Clarke,  M'Kenzie,  David 
Stuart,  and  such  of  the  Astorians  as  had  not  entered  into  the 
service  of  the  Northwest  Company,  set  out  to  cross  the  Eocky 
Mountains.  It  is  not  our  intention  to  take  the  reader  another 
journey  across  those  rugged  barriers ;  but  we  will  step  forward 
with  the  travellers  to  a  distance  on  their  way,  merely  to  relate 
their  interview  with  a  character  already  noted  in  this  work. 

As  the  party  were  proceeding  up  the  Columbia,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Wallah-Wallah  River,  several  Indian  canoes  put 
off  from  the  shore  to  overtake  them,  and  a  voice  called  upon 
them  in  French  and  requested  them  to  stop.  They  accordingly 
put  to  shore,  and  were  joined  by  those  in  the  canoes.  To  their 
surprise,  they  recognized  in  the  person  who  had  hailed  them 
the  Indian  wife  of  Pierre  Dorion,  accompanied  by  her  two 
children.  She  had  a  story  to  tell,  involving  the  fate  of  several 
of  our  unfortunate  adventurers. 

Mr.  John  Reed,  the  Hibernian,  it  will  be  remembered,  had 
been  detached  during  the  summer  to  the  Snake  River.  His 
party  consisted  of  four  Canadians,  Giles  Le  Clerc,  Francois 
Landry,  Jean  Baptiste  Turcot,  and  Andre  La  Chapelle,  to 
gether  with  two  hunters,  Pierre  Dorion  and  Pierre  Delaunay ; 
Dorion,  as  usual,  being  accompanied  by  his  wife  and  children. 
The  objects  of  this  expedition  were  twofold — to  trap  beaver, 
and  to  search  for  the  three  hunters,  Robinson,  Hoback,  and 
Rezner. 

In  the  course  of  the  autumn  Reed  lost  one  man,  Landry,  by 
death;  another  one,  Pierre  Delaunay,  who  was  of  a  sullen,  per 
verse  disposition,  left  him  in  a  moody  fit,  and  was  never  heard 
of  afterward.  The  number  of  his  party  was  not,  however,  re 
duced  by  these  losses,  as  the  three  hunters  Robinson,  Hoback, 
and  Rezner,  had  joined  it. 

Reed  now  built  a  house  on  the  Snake  River,  for  their  winter 
quarters ;  which,  being  completed  the  party  set  about  trapping. 
Rezner,  Le  Clerc,  and  Pierre  Dorion  went  about  five  days' 
journey  from  the  wintering  house,  to  a  part  of  the  country 
well  stocked  with  beaver.  Here  they  put  up  a  hut,  and  pro 
ceeded  to  trap  with  great  success.  While  the  men  were  out 
hunting,  Pierre  Dorion's  wife  remained  at  home  to  dress  the 
skins  and  prepare  the  meals.  She  was  thus  employed  one 
evening  about  the  beginning  of  January,  cooking  the  supper 
of  the  hunters,  when  she  heard  footsteps,  and  Le  Clerc  stag- 


ASTORIA.  371 

gered,  pale  and  bleeding,  into  the  hut.  He  informed  her  that 
a  party  of  savages  had  surprised  them  while  at  their  traps,  and 
had  killed  Rezner  and  her  husband.  He  had  barely  strength 
left  to  give  this  information,  when  he  sank  upon  the  ground. 

The  poor  woman  saw  that  the  only  chance  for  life  was  in 
stant  flight,  but,  in  this  exigency,  showed  that  presence  of 
mind  and  force  of  character  for  which  she  had  frequently  been 
noted.  With  great  difficulty  she  caught  two  of  the  horses 
belonging  to  the  party.  Then  collecting  her  clothes,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  beaver  meat  and  dried  salmon,  she  packed 
them  upon  one  of  the  horses,  and  helped  the  wounded  man  to 
mount  upon  it.  On  the  other  horse  she  mounted  with  her  two 
children,  and  hurried  away  from  this  dangerous  neighborhood, 
directing  her  flight  to  Mr.  Reed's  establishment.  On  the  third 
day  she  descried  a  number  of  Indians  on  horseback  proceeding 
in  an  easterly  direction.  She  immediately  dismounted  with 
her  children,  and  helped  Le  Clerc  likewise  to  dismount,  and  all 
concealed  themselves.  Fortunately  they  escaped  the  sharp 
eyes  of  the  savages,  but  had  to  proceed  with  the  utmost  cau 
tion.  That  night  they  slept  without  fire  or  water ;  she  man 
aged  to  keep  her  children  warm  in  her  arms ;  but  before  morn 
ing  poor  Le  Clerc  died. 

With  the  dawn  of  day  the  resolute  woman  resumed  her 
course,  and  on  the  fourth  day  reached  the  house  of  Mr.  Reed. 
It  was  deserted,  and  all  round  were  marks  of  blood  and  signs 
of  a  furious  massacre.  Not  doubting  that  Mr.  Reed  and  his 
party  had  all  fallen  victims,  she  turned  in  fresh  horror  from 
the  spot.  For  two  days  she  continued  hurrying  forward, 
ready  to  sink  for  want  of  food,  but  more  solicitous  about  her 
children  than  herself.  At  length  she  reached  a  range  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  near  the  upper  part  of  the  Wallah-Wallah 
River.  Here  she  chose  a  wild,  lonely  ravine  as  her  place  of 
winter  refuge. 

She  had  fortunately  a  buffalo  robe  and  three  deer  skins ;  of 
these,  and  of  pine  bark  and  cedar  branches,  she  constructed  a 
rude  wigwam,  which  she  pitched  beside  a  mountain  spring. 
Having  110  other  food,  she  killed  the  two  horses,  and  smoked 
their  flesh.  The  skins  aided  to  cover  her  hut.  Here  she 
dragged  out  the  winter,  with  no  other  company  than  her  two 
children.  Toward  the  middle  of  March  her  provisions  were 
nearly  exhausted.  She  therefore  packed  up  the  remainder, 
slung  it  on  her  back,  and,  with  her  helpless  little  ones,  set  out 
again  on  her  wanderings.  Crossing  the  ridge  of  mountains. 


372  ASTORIA. 

she  descended  to  the  banks  of  the  Wallah- Wallah,  and  kept 
along  thorn  until  she  arrived  where  that  river  throws  itself 
into  the  Columbia.  She  was  hospitably  received  and  enter 
tained  by  the  Wallah-Wallahs,  and  had  been  nearly  two  weeks 
among  them  when  the  two  canoes  passed. 

On  being  interrogated,  she  could  assign  no  reason  for  this 
murderous  attack  of  the  savages ;  it  appeared  to  be  perfectly 
wanton  and  unprovoked.  Some  of  the  Astorians  supposed  it 
an  act  of  butchery  by  a  roving  band  of  Blackfeet;  others, 
however,  and  with  greater  probability  of  correctness,  have 
ascribed  it  to  the  tribe  of  Pierced-iiose  Indians,  in  revenge  for 
the  death  of  their  comrade  hanged  by  order  of  Mr.  Clarke.  If 
so,  it  shows  that  these  sudden  and  apparently  wanton  out- 
breakings  of  sanguinary  violence  on  the  part  of  the  savages 
have  often  some  previous,  though  perhaps  remote,  provocation. 

The  narrative  of  the  Indian  woman  closes  the  checkered 
adventures  of  some  of  the  personages  of  this  motley  story; 
such  as  the  honest  Hibernian  Reed,  and  Dorion  the  hybrid 
interpreter.  Turcot  and  La  Chapelle  were  two  of  the  men  who 
fell  off  from  Mr.  Crooks  in  the  course  of  his  wintry  journe.y, 
and  had  subsequently  such  disastrous  times  among  the  In 
dians.  We  cannot  but  feel  some  sympathy  with  that  per 
severing  trio  of  Kentuckians,  Eobinson,  Rezner,  and  Hoback, 
who  twice  turned  back  when  on  their  way  homeward,  and 
lingered  in  the  wilderness  to  perish  by  the  hands  of  savages. 

The  return  parties  from  Astoria,  both  by  sea  and  land,  ex 
perienced  on  the  way  as  many  adventures,  vicissitudes,  nnd 
mishaps,  as  the  far-famed  heroes  of  the  "Odyssey;"  they 
reached  their  destination  at  different  times,  bearinc;  tidings  to 
Mr.  Astor  of  the  unfortunate  termination  of  his  enterprise. 

That  gentleman,  however,  was  not  disposed,  even  yet,  to 
give  the  matter  up  as  lost.  On  the  contrary,  his  spirit  was 
roused  by  what  he  considered  ungenerous  and  unmerited  con 
duct  on  the  part  of  the  Northwest  Company.  ' '  After  their 
treatment  of  me,"  said  he  in  a  letter  to  Mr.  Hunt,  "  I  have  no 
idea  of  remaining  quiet  and  idle."  He  determined,  therefore, 
as  soon  as  circumstances  would  permit,  to  resume  his  enter 
prise. 

At  the  return  of  peace,  Astoria,  with  the  adjacent  country, 
reverted  to  the  United  States  by  the  treaty  of  Ghent,  on  the 
principle  of  status  ante  bellum,  and  Captain  Biddle  was  dis 
patched,  in  the  sloop-of-war  Ontario,  to  take  formal  repos 
session. 


ASTORIA.  373 

In  the  winter  of  1815  a  law  was  passed  by  Congress  prohibit 
ing  all  traffic  of  British  traders  within  the  territories  of  the 
United  States. 

The  favorable  moment  seemed  now  to  Mr.  Astor  to  have 
arrived  for  the  revival  of  his  favorite  enterprise,  but  new 
difficulties  had  grown  up  to  impede  it.  The  Northwest  Com 
pany  were  now  in  complete  occupation  of  the  Columbia  River, 
and  its  chief  tributary  streams,  holding  the  posts  which  ho 
had  established,  and  carrying  on  a  trade  throughout  the  neigh 
boring  region,  in  defiance  of  the  prohibitory  law  of  Congress, 
which,  in  effect,  was  a  dead  letter  beyond  the  mountains. 

To  dispossess  them  would  be  an  undertaking  of  almost  a 
belligerent  nature;  for  their  agents  and  retainers  were  well 
armed,  and  skilled  in  the  use  of  weapons,  as  is  usual  with 
Indian  traders.  The  ferocious  and  bloody  contests  which  had 
taken  place  between  the  rival  trading  parties  of  the  Northwest 
and  Hudson's  Bay  Companies  had  shown  what  might  be  ex 
pected  from  commercial  feuds  in  the  lawless  depths  of  the 
wilderness.  Mr.  Astor  did  not  think  it  advisable,  therefore, 
to  attempt  the  matter  without  the  protection  of  the  American 
flag,  under  which  his  people  might  rally  in  case  of  need.  He 
accordingly  made  an  informal  overture  to  the  President  of  the 
United  States,  Mr.  Madison,  through  Mr.  Gallatin,  offering  to 
renew  his  enterprise,  and  to  re-establish  Astoria,  provided  it 
would  be  protected  by  the  American  flag,  and  made  a  military 
post,  stating  that  the  whole  force  required  would  not  exceed  a 
lieutenant's  command. 

The  application,  approved  and  recommended  by  Mr.  Galla 
tin,  one  of  the  most  enlightened  statesmen  of  our  country,  was 
favorably  received,  but  no  step  was  taken  in  consequence ;  the 
President  not  being  disposed,  in  all  probability,  to  commit 
himself  by  any  direct  countenance  or  overt  act.  Discouraged 
by  this  supineness  on  the  part  of  the  government,  Mr.  Astor 
did  not  think  fit  to  renew  his  overtures  in  a  more  formal  man 
ner,  and  the  favorable  moment  for  the  re-occupation  of  Astoria 
was  suffered  to  pass  unimproved. 

The  British  trading  establishments  were  thus  enabled,  with 
out  molestation,  to  strike  deep  their  roots,  and  extend  their 
ramifications,  in  despite  of  the  prohibition  of  Congress,  until 
they  had  spread  themselves  over  the  rich  field  of  enterprise 
opened  by  Mr.  Astor.  The  British  government  soon  began  to 
perceive  the  importance  of  this  region,  and  to-desire  to  include 
it  within  their  territorial  domains.  A  question  has  conse- 


374  ASTORIA. 

quently  risen  as  to  the  right  to  the  soil,  and  has  become  one  of 
the  most  perplexing  now  open  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain.  In  the  first  treaty  relative  to  it,  under  date  of 
October  20th,  1818,  the  question  was  left  unsettled,  and  it  was 
agreed  that  the  country  on  the  northwest  coast  of  America, 
westward  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  claimed  by  either  nation, 
should  be  open  to  the  inhabitants  of  both  for  ten  years,  for  the 
purposes  of  trade,  with  the  equal  right  of  navigating  all  its 
rivers.  When  these  ten  years  had  expired,  a  subsequent 
treaty,  in  1828,  extended  the  arrangement  to  ten  additional 
years.  So  the  matter  stands  at  present. 

On  casting  back  our  eyes  over  the  series  of  events  we  have 
recorded,  we  see  no  reason  to  attribute  the  failure  of  this  great 
commercial  undertaking  to  any  fault  in  the  scheme,  or  omis 
sion  in  the  execution  of  it,  on  the  part  of  the  projector.  It  was 
a  magnificent  enterprise ;  well  concerted  and  carried  on,  with 
out  regard  to  difficulties  or  expense.  A  succession  of  adverse 
circumstances  and  cross  purposes,  however,  beset  it  almost 
from  the  outset ;  some  of  them,  in  fact,  arising  from  neglect  of 
the  orders  and  instructions  of  Mr.  Astor.  The  first  crippling 
blow  was  the  loss  of  the  Tonquin,  which  clearly  would  not 
have  happened  had  Mr.  Astor's  earnest  injunctions  with  re 
gard  to  the  natives  been  attended  to.  Had  this  ship  performed 
her  voyage  prosperously,  and  revisited  Astoria  in  due  time, 
the  trade  of  the  establishment  would  have  taken  its  precon 
certed  course,  and  the  spirits  of  all  concerned  been  kept  up  by 
a  confident  prospect  of  success.  Her  dismal  catastrophe  struck 
a  chill  into  every  heart,  and  prepared  the  way  for  subsequent 
despondency. 

Another  cause  of  embarrassment  and  loss  was  the  departure 
from  the  plan  of  Mr.  Astor,  as  to  the  voyage  of  the  Beaver, 
subsequent  to  her  visiting  Astoria.  The  variation  from  this 
plan  produced  a  series  of  cross  purposes,  disastrous  to  the 
establishment,  and  detained  Mr.  Hunt  absent  from  his  post, 
when  his  presence  there  was  of  vital  importance  to  the  enter 
prise  ;  so  essential  is  it  for  an  agent,  in  any  great  and  com 
plicated  undertaking,  to  execute  faithfully,  and  to  the  letter, 
the  part  marked  out  for  him  by  the  master  mind  which  has 
concerted  the  whole. 

The  breaking  out  of  the  war  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain  multiplied  the  hazards  and  embarrassments  of 
the  enterprise.  The  disappointment  as  to  convoy  rendered  it 
difficult  to  keep  up  reinforcements  and  supplies ;  and  the  loss 
of  the  Lark  added  to  the  tissue  of  misadventures. 


ASTORIA.  375 

That  Mr.  Astor  battled  resolutely  against  every  difficulty, 
and  pursued  his  course  in  defiance  of  every  loss,  has  been 
sufficiently  shown.  Had  he  been  seconded  by  suitable  agents, 
and  properly  protected  by  government,  the  ultimate  failure  of 
his  plan  might  yet  have  been  averted.  It  was  his  great  mis 
fortune  that  his  agents  were  not  imbued  with  his  own  spirit. 
Some  had  not  capacity  sufficient  to  comprehend  the  real  nature 
and  extent  of  his  scheme ;  others  were  alien  in  feeling  and  in 
terest,  and  had  been  brought  up  in  the  service  of  a  rival  com 
pany.  Whatever  sympathies  they  might  originally  have  had 
with  him,  were  impaired,  if  not  destroyed,  by  the  war.  They 
looked  upon  his  cause  as  desperate,  and  only  considered  how 
they  might  make  interest  to  regain  a  situation  under  their  for 
mer  employers.  The  absence  of  Mr.  Hunt,  the  only  real 
representative  of  Mr.  Astor,  at  the  time  of  the  capitulation 
with  the  Northwest  Company,  completed  the  series  of  cross 
purposes.  Had  that  gentleman  been  present,  the  transfer,  in 
all  probability,  would  not  have  taken  place. 

It  is  painful,  at  all  times,  to  see  a  grand  and  beneficial  stroke 
of  genius  fail  of  its  aim :  but  we  regret  the  failure  of  this  enter 
prise  in  a  national  point  of  view;  for,  had  it  been  crowned 
with  success,  it  would  have  redounded  greatly  to  the  advan 
tage  and  extension  of  our  commerce.  That  profits  drawn  from 
the  country  in  question  by  the  British  Fur  Company,  though 
of  ample  amount,  form  no  criterion  by  which  to  judge  of  the 
advantages  that  would  have  arisen  had  it  been  entirely  in  the 
hands  of  the  citizens  of  the  United  States.  That  company,  as 
has  been  shown,  is  limited  in  the  nature  and  scope  of  its  opera 
tions,  and  can  make  but  little  use  of  the  maritime  facilities  held 
out  by  an  emporium  and  a  harbor  on  that  coast.  In  our 
hands,  besides  the  roving  bands  of  trappers  and  traders,  the 
country  would  have  been  explored  and  settled  by  industrious 
husbandmen ;  and  the  fertile  valleys  bordering  its  rivers,  and 
shut  up  among  its  mountains,  would  have  been  made  to  pour 
forth  their  agricultural  treasures  to  contribute  to  the  general 
wealth. 

In  respect  to  commerce,  we  should  have  had  a  line  of  trading 
posts  from  the  Mississippi  and  the  Missouri  across  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  forming  a  high  road  from  the  great  regions  of  the 
west  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  We  should  have  had  a  forti 
fied  post  and  port  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  commanding 
the  trade  of  that  river  and  its  tributaries,  and  of  a  wide  extent 
of  country  and  sea-coast ;  carrying  on  an  active  and  profitable 
commerce  with  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  a  direct  and  fre« 


376  ASTORIA. 

quent  communication  with  China.  In  a  word,  Astoria  migLt 
have  realized  the  anticipations  of  Mr.  Astor,  so  well  under 
stood  and  appreciated  by  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  gradually  becoming 
a  commercial  empire  beyond  the  mountains,  peopled  by  ' '  free 
and  independent  Americans,  and  linked  with  us  by  ties  of 
blood  and  interest." 

We  repeat,  therefore,  our  sincere  regret  that  our  govern 
ment  should  have  neglected  the  overture  of  Mr.  Astor,  and 
suffered  the  moment  to  pass  by,  when  full  possession  of  this 
region  might  have  been  taken  quietly,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
and  a  military  post  established,  without  dispute,  at  Astoria. 
Our  statesmen  have  become  sensible,  when  too  late,  of  the  im 
portance  of  this  measure.  Bills  have  repeatedly  been  brought 
into  Congress  for  the  purpose,  but  without  success ;  and  our 
rightful  possessions  on  that  coast,  as  well  as  our  trade  on  the 
Pacific,  have  no  rallying  point  protected  by  the  national  flag, 
and  by  a  military  force. 

In  the  meantime  the  second  period  of  ten  years  is  fast  elaps 
ing.  In  1838  the  question  of  title  will  again  come  up,  and  most 
probably,  in  the  present  amicable  state  of  our  relations  with 
Great  Britain,  will  be  again  postponed.  Every  year,  however, 
the  litigated  claim  is  growing  in  importance.  There  is  no 
pride  so  jealous  and  irritable  as  the  pride  of  territory.  As  one 
wave  of  emigration  after  another  rolls  into  the  vast  regions  of 
the  west,  and  our  settlements  stretch  toward  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  the  eager  eyes  of  our  pioneers  will  pry  beyond,  and 
they  will  become  impatient  of  any  barrier  or  impediment  in 
the  way  of  what  they  consider  a  grand  outlet  of  our  empire. 
Should  any  circumstance,  therefore,  unfortunately  occur  to 
disturb  the  present  harmony  of  the  two  nations,  this  ill-ad 
justed  question,  which  now  lies  dormant,  may  suddenly  start 
up  into  one  of  belligerent  import,  and  Astoria  become  the 
watchword  in  a  contest  for  dominion  on  the  shores  of  the 
Pacific. 

Since  the  above  was  written,  the  question  of  dominion  over 
the  vast  territory  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  for  a 
time  threatened  to  disturb  the  peaceful  relations  with  our 
transatlantic  kindred,  has  been  finally  settled  in  a  spirit  of 
mutual  concession,  and  the  venerable  projector,  whose  early 
enterprise  forms  the  subject  of  this  work,  had  the  satisfaction 
of  knowing,  ere  his  eyes  closed  upon  the  world,  that  the  flag 
of  his  country  again  waved  over  "  ASTORIA." 


APPENDIX. 


Draught  of  a  petition  to  Congress,  sent  by  Mr.  Astor  in  1812. 

To  the  honorable  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United  States,  in 
Congress  assembled.  The  petition  of  the  American  Fur  Company  respectfully 
showeth : 

That  the  trade  with  the  several  Indian  tribes  of  North  America,  has,  for  many 
years  past  been  almost  exclusively  carried  on  by  the  merchants  of  Canada  ;  who, 
having  formed  powerful  and  extensive  associations  for  that  purpose,  being  aided 
by  British  capital,  and  being  encouraged  by  the  favor  and  protection  of  the  British 
government,  could  not  be  opposed,  with  any  prospect  of  success,  by  individuals  of 
the  United  States. 

That  by  means  of  the  above  trade,  thus  systematically  pursued,  not  only  the  in 
habitants  of  the  United  States  have  been  deprived  of  commercial  profits  and  advan 
tages,  to  which  they  appear  to  have  just  and  natural  pretensions,  but  a  great  and 
dangerous  influence  has  been  established  over  the  Indian  tribes,  difficult  to  be 
counteracted,  and  capable  of  being  exerted  at  critical  periods,  to  the  great  injury 
and  annoj-ance  of  our  frontier  settlement. 

That  in  order  to  obtain  at  least  a  part  of  the  above  trade,  and  more  particularly 
that  which  is  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United  States,  your  petitioners,  in  the 
year  180.-?,  obtained  an  act  of  incorporation  from  the  State  of  New  York,  whereby 
they  are  enabled,  with  a  competent  capital,  to  carry  on  the  said  trade  with  the  In 
dians  in  such  manner  as  may  be  conformable  to  the  laws  and  regulations  of  the 
United  States,  in  relation  to  such  commerce. 

That  the  capital  mentioned  in  the  said  act,  amounting  to  one  million  of  dollars, 
having  been  duly  formed,  your  petitioners  entered  with  zeal  and  alacrity  into  those 
large  and  important  arrangements,  which  were  necessary  for,  or  conducive  to.  the 
object  of  their  incorporation  ;  and,  among  other  things,  purchased  a  great  part  of 
the  stock  in  trade,  and  trading  establishments,  of  the  Michilirnacldnae  Company  of 
Canada.  Your  petitioners  also,  with  the  expectation  of  great  public  and  private 
advantage  from  the  use  of  the  said  establishments,  ordered,  during  the  spring  and 
summer  of  1810,  an  assortment  of  goods  from  England,  suitable  for  the  Indian 
trade;  which,  in  consequence  of  the  President's  proclamation  of  November  of  that 
year,  were  shipped  to  Canada  instead  of  New  York,  and  have  been  transported  under 
a  very  heavy  expense,  into  the  interior  of  the  country.  But  as  they  could  not  legally 
be  brought  into  the  Indian  country  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United  States,  they 
have  been  stored  on  the  Island  of  St.  Joseph,  in  Lake  Huron,  where  they  now  re 
main. 

Your  petitioners,  with  great  deference  and  implicit  submission  to  the  wisdom  of 
the  national  legislature,  beg  leave  to  suggest  for  consideration,  whether  they  have 
not  some  claim  to  national  attention  and  encouragement,  from  the  nature  and  im 
portance  of  their  undertaking  :  which  though  hazardous  and  uncertain  as  it  con 
cerns  their  private  emolument,  must,  at  any  rate,  redound  to  the  public  security  and 


378  APPENDIX. 

advantage.  If  their  undertaking  shall  appear  to  be  of  the  description  given,  they 
would  further  suggest  to  your  honorable  bodies,  that  unless  they  can  procure  a  reg 
ular  supply  for  the  trade  iu  which  they  are  engaged,  it  may  languish,  and  be  finally 
abandoned  by  American  citizens' ;  when  it  will  revert  to  its  former  channel,  with 
additional,  and  perhaps  with  irresistible,  power. 

Under  these  circumstances,  and  upon  all  those  considerations  of  public  policy 
which  will  present  themselves  to  your  honorable  bodies,  in  connection  with  those 
already  mentioned,  your  petitioners  respectfully  pray  that  a  law  may  be  passed  to 
enable  the  President,  or  any  of  the  heads  of  departments  acting  under  his  authority, 
to  grant  permits  for  the  introduction  of  goods  necessary  for  the  supply  of  the  In 
dians,  into  the  Indian  country,  that  is,  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United  States, 
under  such  regulations,  and  with  such  restrictions,  as  may  secure  the  public  reve 
nue  and  promote  the  public  welfare. 

And  your  petitioners  shall  ever  pray,  etc. 
In  witness  whereof,  the  common  seal  of  the  American  Fur  Company  is  hereunto 

affixed,  the  day  of  March,  1812. 

By  order  of  the  Corporation. 

AN  ACT  to  enable  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  other  citizens,  to  introduce 
goods  necessary  for  the  Indian  trade  into  the  territories  within  the  boundaries  of 
the  United  States. 

WHEREAS,  the  public  peace  and  welfare  require  that  the  native  Indian  tribes  re 
siding  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United  States,  should  receive  their  necessary 
supplies  under  the  authority  and  from  the  citizens  of  the  United  States  :  Therefore, 
be  it  enacted  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United  States,  in 
Congress  assembled,  that  it  shall  be  lawful  for  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
or  any  of  the  heads  of  departments  ttiereunto  "b^  him  duly  authorized,  from  time 
to  time  to  grant  permits  to  the  American  "Fur  Company,  their  agents  or  factors,  or 
any  other  citizens  of  the  United  States  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade,  to  introduce 
into  the  Indian  country,  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United  States,  such  goods, 
wares,  and  merchandise,  as  may  be  necessary  for  the  said  trade,  under  such  regu 
lations  and  restrictions  as  the  said  President  or  heads  of  departments  may  judge 
proper;  any  law  or  regulation  to  the  contrary,  in  anywise,  notwithstanding. 

Letter  from  Mr.  Gallatin  to  Mr.  Astor,  dated 

NEW  YORK,  August  5,  1835. 

DEAR  SIR  :  In  compliance  with  your  request,  I  will  state  such  facts  as  I  recollect 
touching  the  subjects  mentioned  in  your  letter  of  28th  ult.  I  may  be  mistaken  re 
specting  dates  and  details,  and  will  only  relate  general  facts,  which  I  well  remem 
ber. 

In  conformity  with  the  treaty  of  1794  with  Great  Britain,  the  citizens  and  sub 
jects  of  each  country  were  permitted  to  trade  with  the  Indians  residing  in  the  terri 
tories  of  the  other  party.  The  reciprocity  was  altogether  nominal.  Since  the  con 
quest  of  Canada,  the  British  had  inherited  from  the  French  the  whole  fur  trade, 
through  the  great  lakes  and  their  communications,  with  all  the  western  Indians, 
whether  residing  in  the  British  dominions  or  the  United  States.  They  kept  the  im 
portant  western  posts  on  those  lakes  till  about  the  year  1797.  And  the  defensive 
Indian  war,  which  the  United  States  had  to  sustain  from  1776  to  1795,  had  still  more 
alienated  the  Indians,  and  secured  to  the  British  their  exclusive  trade,  carried 
through  the  lakes,  wherever  the  Indians  in  that  quarter  lived.  No  American  could, 
without  imminent  danger  of  property  and  life,  carry  on  that  trade,  even  within  the 
United  States,  by  the  way  of  either  Michilimaekinac  or  St.  Mary's.  And  indepen 
dent  of  the  loss  of  commerce,  Great  Britain  was  enabled  to  preserve  a  most  danger 
ous  influence  over  our  Indians. 


APPENDIX.  379 

It  was  under  these  circumstances  that  you  communicated  to  our  government  the 
prospect  you  had  to  be  able,  and  your  intention,  to  purchase  one  half  of  the  inter- 
est  of  the  Canadian  Fur  Company,  engaged  in  trade  by  the  way  of  Michilimackinac 
with  our  own  Indians.  You  wished  to  know  whether  the  plan  met  with  the  appro 
bation  of  government,  and  how  far  you  could  rely  on  its  protection  and  encourage 
ment.  This  overture  was  received  with  great  satisfaction  by  the  administration, 
and  Mr.  Jefferson,  then  President,  wrote  you  to  that  effect.  I  was  also  directed,  as 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  to  write  to  you  an  official  letter  to  the  same  purpose. 
On  investigating  the  subject,  it  was  found  that  the  Executive  had  no  authority  to 
give  you  any  direct  aid ;  and  I  believe  that  you  received  nothing  more  than  an  en 
tire  approbation  of  your  plan,  and  general  assurances  of  the  protection  due  to 
every  citizen  engaged  in  lawful  and  useful  pursuits. 

You  did  effect  the  contemplated  purchase,  but  in  what  year  I  do  not  recollect. 
Immediately  before  the  war,  you  represented  that  a  large  quantity  of  merchandise, 
intended  for  the  Indian  trade,  and  including  arms  and  munitions  of  war,  belonging 
to  that  concern  of  which  you  owned  one  half,  was  deposited  at  a  post  on  Lake 
Huron,  within  the  British  dominions;  that,  in  order  to  prevent  their  ultimately  fall- 
Ing  into  the  hands  of  Indians  who  might  prove  hostile,  you  were  desirous  to  try  to 
have  them  conveyed  into  the  United  States;  but  that  you  were  prevented  by  the 
then  existing  law  of  non-intercourse  with  the  British  dominions. 

The  Executive  could  not  annul  the  provisions  of  that  law.  But  I  was  directed  to 
instruct  the  collectors  on  the  lakes,  in  case  you  or  your  agents  should  voluntarily 
bring  in  and  deliver  to  them  any  parts  of  the  goods  mentioned,  to  receive  and  keep 
them  in  their  guard,  and  not  to  commence  prosecutions  until  further  instructions; 
the  intention  being  then  to  apply  to  Congress  for  an  act  remitting  the  forfeiture 
and  penalties.  I  wrote  accordingly,  to  that  effect,  to  the  collectors  of  Detroit  and 
Michilimackinac. 

The  attempt  to  obtain  the  goods  did  not,  however,  succeed ;  and  I  cannot  say  how 
far  the  failure  injured  you.  But  the  war  proved  fatal  to  another  much  more  exten 
sive  and  important  enterprise. 

Previous  to  that  time,  but  I  also  forget  the  year,  you  had  undertaken  to  carry  on 
a  trade  on  your  own  account,  though  I  believe  under  the  New  York  charter  of  the 
American  Fur  Company,  with  the  Indians  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This  pro 
ject  was  also  communicated  to  government,  and  met,  of  course,  with  its  full  appro 
bation,  and  best  wishes  for  your  success.  You  carried  it  on,  on  the  most  extensive 
scale,  sending  several  ships  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  and  a  large  party 
by  land  across  the  mountains,  and  finally  founding  the  establishment  of  Astoria. 

This  unfortunately  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy  during  the  war,  from  circum 
stances  with  which  I  am  but  imperfectly  acquainted — being  then  absent  on  a  for 
eign  mission.  I  returned  in  September,  1815,  and  sailed  again  on  a  mission  to 
France  in  June,  1816.  During  that  period  I  visited  Washington  twice— in  October  or 
November,  1816,  and  in  March,  1816.  On  one  of  these  two  occasions,  and  I  believe 
on  the  last,  you  mentioned  to  me  that  you  were  disposed  once  more  to  renew  the 
attempt,  and  to  re-establish  Astoria,  provided  you  had  the  protection  of  the  Ameri 
can  flag;  for  which  purpose  a  lieutenant's  command  would  be  sufficient  to  you. 
You  requested  me  to  mention  this  to  the  President,  which  I  did.  Mr.  Madison  said 
he  would  consider  the  subject,  and,  although  he  did  not  commit  himself,  I  thought 
that  he  received  the  proposal  favorably.  The  message  was  verbal,  and  I  do  not 
know  whether  the  application  was  ever  renewed  in  a  more  formal  manner.  I  sailed 
soon  after  for  Europe,  and  was  seven  years  absent.  I  never  had  the  pleasure,  since 
1816,  to  see  Mr.  Madison,  and  never  heard  again  anything  concerning  the  subject  in 
question. 

I  remain,  dear  sir,  most  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

ALBERT  GALLATIN. 

JOHN  JACOB  ASTOR,  Esq.,  New  York. 


APPENDIX. 


Notices  of  the  present  state  of  the  Fur  Trade,  chiefly  extracted  from  an  article 
published  in  Silliiuaris  Journal  for  January,  1834. 

The  Northwest  Company  did  not  long  enjoy  the  sway  they  had  acquired  over  the 
trading  regions  of  the  Columbia.  A  competition,  ruinous  in  its  expenses,  which  had 
long  existed  between  them  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  ended  in  their  down- 
fall  and  the  ruin  of  most  of  the  partners.  The  relict  of  the  company  became 
merged  in  the  rival  association,  and  the  whole  business  was  conducted  under  the 
name  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

This  coalition  took  pla  ein  1821.  They  then  abandoned  Astoria,  and  built  a  large 
establishment  sixty  miles  up  the  river,  on  the  right  bank,  which  they  called  Fort 
Vancouver.  This  was  in  a  neighborhood  where  provisions  could  be  more  readily 
procured,  and  where  there  was  less  danger  from  molestation  by  any  naval  force. 
The  company  are  said  to  carry  on  an  active  and  prosperous  trade,  and  to  give  great 
encouragement  to  settlers.  They  are  extremely  jealous,  however,  of  any  interfer 
ence  or  participation  in  their  trade,  and  monopolize  it  from  the  coast  of  the  Pacific 
to  the  mountains,  and  for  a  considerable  extent  north  and  south.  The  American 
traders  and  trappers  who  venture  across  the  mountains,  instead  of  enjoying  the 
participation  in  the  trade  of  the  river  and  its  tributaries,  that  had  been  stipulated 
by  treaty,  are  obliged  to  keep  to  the  south,  out  of  the  track  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
parties. 

Mr.  Astor  has  withdrawn  entirely  from  the  American  Fur  Company,  as  he  has, 
in  fact,  from  active  business  of  every  kind.  That  company  is  now  headed  by  Mr. 
Ramsay  Crooks  ;  its  principal  establishment  is  at  Michilimackinac,  and  it  receives 
its  furs  from  the  posts  depending  on  that  station,  and  from  those  on  the  Mississippi, 
Missouri,  and  Yellowstone  Rivers,  and  the  great  range  of  country  extending  thence 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This  company  has  steamboats  in  its  employ,  with  which 
it  ascends  the  rivers,  and  penetrates  to  a  vast  distance  into  the  bosom  of  those 
regions  formerly  so  painfully  explored  in  keel  boats  and  barges,  or  by  weary  par 
ties  on  horseback  and  on  foot.  The  first  irruption  of  steamboats  into  the  heart  of 
these  vast  wildernesses  is  said  to  have  caused  the  utmost  astonishment  and  affright 
among  their  savage  inhabitants. 

In  addition  to  the  main  companies  already  mentioned,  minor  associations  have 
been  formed,  which  push  their  way  in  the  most  intrepid  manner  to  the  remote 
parts  of  the  far  West,  and  beyond  the  mountain  barriers.  One  of  the  most  noted 
of  these  is  Ashley's  company,  from  St.  Louis,  who  trap  for  themselves,  and  drive 
an  extensive  trade  with  the  Indians.  The  spirit,  enterprise,  and  hardihood  of 
Ashley  are  themes  of  the  highest  eulogy  in  the  far  West,  and  his  adventures  and 
exploits  furnish  abundance  of  frontier  stories. 

Another  company  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  persons  from  New  York,  formed  in 
}831,  and  headed  by  Captain  Bonneville  of  the  United  States  army,  has  pushed  its 
enterprises  into  tracts  before  but  little  known,  and  has  brought  considerable  quan 
tities  of  furs  from  the  region  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  coasts  of  Mon 
terey  and  Upper  California,  on  the  Buenaventura  and  Timpanogos  Rivers. 

The  fur  companies,  from  the  Pacific  east  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  are  now  occu 
pied  (exclusive  of  private  combinations  and  individual  trappers  and  traders)  by  the 
Russians  ;  and  on  the  northwest,  from  Behring's  Strait  to  Queen  Charlotte's  Island, 
in  north  latitude  fifty-three  degrees,  and  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  thence, 
south  of  the  Columbia  River  ;  while  Ashley's  company,  and  that  under  Captain 
Bonueville,  take  the  remainder  of  the  region  to  California.  Indeed,  the  whole  com 
pass  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  is  traversed  in  every  direction.  The 
mountains  and  forests,  from  the  Arctic  Sea  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  are  threaded, 
through  every  maze,  by  the  hunter.  Every  river  and  tributary  stream,  from  the 
Columbia  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  and  from  the  M'Kenzie  to  the  Colorado 
of  the  West,  from  their  head  springs  to  their  junction,  are  searched  and  trapped 
for  beaver.  Almost  all  the  American  furs,  which  do  not  belong  to  the  Hudson's 


APPENDIX.  381 

Bay  Company,  find  their  way  to  New  York,  and  are  either  distributed  thence  for 
Lome  consumption,  or  sent  to  foreign  markets. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ship  their  furs  from  their  factories  of  York  Fort  and 
from  Moose  River,  on  Hudson's  Bay  ;  their  collection  from  Grand  River,  etc.,  they 
ship  from  Canada ;  and  the  collection  from  Columbia  goes  to  London.  None  of 
their  furs  come  to  the  United  States,  except  through  the  Indian  market. 

The  export  trade  of  furs  from  the  United  States  is  chiefly  to  London.  Some 
quantities  have  been  sent  to  Canton,  and  some  few  to  Hamburg  ;  and  an  increasing 
export  trade  in  beaver,  otter,  nutria,  and  vicunia  wool,  prepared  for  the  hatter's 
use,  is  carried  on  in  Mexico.  Some  furs  are  exported  from  Baltimore,  Philadelphia, 
and  Boston  ;  but  the  principal  shipments  from  the  United  States  are  from  New- 
York  to  London,  from  whence  they  are  sent  to  Leipsic,  a  well-known  mart  for  furs, 
where  they  are  disposed  of  during  the  great  fair  in  that  city,  and  distributed  to 
every  part  of  the  continent. 

The  United  States  import  from  South  America,  nutria,  vicunia,  chinchilla,  and  a 
few  deer  skins  ;  also  fur  seals  from  the  Lobos  Islands,  off  the  river  Plate.  A  quan 
tity  of  beaver,  otter,  etc.,  are  brought  annually  from  Santa  F6.  Dressed  furs  for 
edgings,  linings,  caps,  muffs,  etc.,  such  as  squirrel,  genet,  fitch  skins,  and  blue 
rabbit,  are  received  from  the  north  of  Europe  ;  also  coney  and  hare's  fur  ;  but  the 
largest  importations  are  from  London,  where  is  concentrated  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  North  American  fur  trade. 

Such  is  the  present  state  of  the  fur  trade,  by  which  it  will  appear  that  the  ex 
tended  sway  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  its  monopoly  of  the  region  of 
which  Astoria  was  the  key,  has  operated  to  turn  the  main  current  of  this  opulent 
trade  into  the  coffers  of  Great  Britain,  and  to  render  London  the  emporium  instead 
of  New  York,  as  Mr.  Astor  had  intended. 

We  will  subjoin  a  few  observations  on  the  animals  sought  after  in  this  traffic, 
extracted  from  the  same  intelligent  source  with  the  preceding  remarks. 

Of  the  fur -bear  ing  animals,  "the  precious  ermine,"  so  called  by  way  of  pre 
eminence,  is  found,  of  the  best  quality,  only  in  the  cold  regions  of  Europe  and 
Asia.*  Its  fur  is  of  the  most  perfect  whiteness,  except  the  tip  of  its  tail,  which  is  of 
a  brilliant  shining  black.  With  these  black  tips  tacked  on  the  skins,  they  are  beauti 
fully  spotted,  producing  an  effect  often  imitated,  but  never  equalled  in  other  furs. 
The  ermine  is  of  the  genus  mustela  (weasel),  and  resembles  the  common  weasel  in 
its  form ;  is  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  inches  from  the  tip  of  the  nose  to  the  end  of 
the  tail.  The  body  is  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  long.  It  lives  in  hollow  trees, 
river  banks,  and  especially  in  beech  forests;  preys  on  small  birds,  is  very  shy, 
sleeping  during  the  day,  and  employing  the  night  in  search  of  food.  The  fur  of  the 
older  animals  is  preferred  to  the  younger.  It  is  taken  by  snares  and  traps,  and 
sometimes  shot  with  blunt  arrows.  Attempts  have  been  made  to  domesticate  it ; 
but  it  is  extremely  wild,  and  has  been  found  untamable. 

The  sable  can  scarcely  be  called  second  to  the  ermine.  It  is  a  native  of  Northern 
Europe  and  Siberia  and  is  also  of  the  genus  mustela.  In  Samoieda,  Yakutsk, 
Kamschatka,  and  Russian  Lapland,  it  is  found  of  the  richest  quality  and  darkest 
color.  In  its  habits  it  resembles  the  ermine.  It  preys  on  small  squirrels  and  birds, 
sleeps  by  day,  and  prowls  for  food  during  the  night.  It  is  so  like  the  marten,  in 
every  particular  except  its  size,  and  the  dark  shade  of  its  color,  that  naturalists 
have  not  decided  whether  it  is  the  richest  and  finest  of  the  marten  tribe,  or  a  variety 
of  that  species.t  It  varies  in  dimensions  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches. 

*  An  animal  called  the  stoat,  a  kind  of  ermine,  is  said  to  be  found  in  North  Ameri 
ca,  but  very  inferior  to  the  European  and  Asiatic. 

t  The  finest  fur  and  the  darkest  color  are  most  esteemed  ;  and  whether  the  differ 
ence  arises  from  the  age  of  the  animal,  or  from  some  peculiarity  of  location,  is  not 
known.  They  do  not  vary  more  from  the  common  marten  than  the  Arabian  horse 
from  the  shaggy  Canadian. 


382  APPENDIX. 

The  rich  dark  shades  of  the  sable,  and  the  snowy  whiteness  of  the  ermine,  the 
great  depth,  and  the  peculiar,  almost  flowing  softness  of  their  skius  and  fur,  have 
combined  to  gain  them  a  preference  in  all  countries,  and  in  all  ages  of  the  world. 
In  this  age  they  maintain  the  same  relative  estimate  in  regard  to  other  furs,  as 
when  they  marked  the  rank  of  the  proud  crusader,  and  were  emblazoned  in  herald 
ry;  but  in  most  European  nations  they  are  now  worn  promiscuously  by  the  opu 
lent. 

The  martens  from  Northern  Asia  and  the  Mountains  of  Kamschatka  are  much 
superior  to  the  American,  though  in  every  pack  of  American  mavten  skins  there  are 
a  certain  number  which  are  beautifully  shaded,  and  of  a  dark  brown  olive  color,  of 
great  depth  and  richness. 

Next  these  in  value,  for  ornament  and  utility,  are  the  sea  otter,  the  mink,  and  the 
fiery  fox. 

The  fiery  fox  is  the  bright  red  of  Asia;  is  more  brilliantly  colored  and  of  finer  fur 
than  any  other  of  the  genus.  It  is  highly  valued  for  the  splendor  of  its  red  color 
and  the  fineness  of  its  fur.  It  is  the  standard  of  value  on  the  northeastern  coast  of 
Asia. 

The  sea  otter,  which  was  first  introduced  into  commerce  in  1725,  from  the  Aleu 
tian  and  Kurile  Islands,  is  an  exceedingly  fine,  soft,  close  fur,  jet  black  in  winter, 
with  a  silken  gloss.  The  fur  of  the  young  animal  is  of  a  beautiful  brown  color.  It 
is  met  with  in  great  abundance  in  Behring's  Island,  Kamschatka,  Aleutian  and  Fox 
Islands,  and  is  also  taken  on  the  opposite  coasts  of  North  America.  It  is  sometimes 
taken  with  nets,  but  more  frequently  with  clubs  and  spears.  Their  food  is  princi 
pally  lobster  and  other  shell-fish. 

In  1780  furs  had  become  so  scarce  in  Siberia  that  the  supply  was  insufficient  for 
the  demand  in  the  Asiatic  countries.  It  was  at  this  time  that  the  sea  otter  Avas  in 
troduced  into  the  markets  for  China.  The  skins  brought  such  incredible  prices  as  to 
originate  immediately  several  American  and  British  expeditions  to  the  northern 
islands  of  the  Pacific,  to  Nootka  Sound  and  the  northwest  coast  of  America;  but  the 
Russians  already  had  possession  of  the  tract  which  they  now  hold,  and  had  arranged 
a  trade  for  the  sea  otter  with  the  Koudek  tribes.  They  do  not  engross  the  trade, 
however;  the  American  northwest  trading  ships  procure  them,  all  along  the  coast, 
from  the  Indians. 

At  one  period  the  fur  seals  formed  no  inconsiderable  item  in  the  trade.  South 
Georgia,  in  south  latitude  fifty-five  degrees,  discovered  in  1675,  was  explored  by 
Captain  Cook  in  1771.  The  Americans  immediately  commenced  carrying  seal  skins 
thence  to  China,  where  they  obtained  the  most  exorbitant  prices.  One  million  two 
hundred  thousand  skins  have  been  taken  from  that  island  alone,  and  nearly  an 
equal  number  from  the  Island  of  Desolation,  since  they  were  first  resorted  to  for 
the  purpose  of  commerce. 

The  discovery  of  the  South  Shetland?,  sixty-three  degrees  south  latitude,  in  1818, 
added  surprisingly  to  the  trade  in  fur  seals.  The  number  taken  from  the  South 
Shetlands  in  1821  and  1822  amounted  to  three  hundred  and  twenty  thousand.  This 
valuable  animal  is  now  almost  extinct  in  all  these  islands,  owing  to  the  exterminat 
ing  system  adopted  by  the  hunters.  They  are  still  taken  on  the  Lobos  Islands, 
wh'-re  the  provident  government  of  Montevideo  restrict  the  fishery,  or  hunting, 
«rithin  certain  limits,  which  insures  annual  return  of  the  seals.  At  certain  seasons 
these  amphibia,  for  the  purpose  of  renewing  their  coat,  come  up  on  the  dark 
r /owning  rocks  and  precipices,  where  there  is'  not  a  trace  of  vegetation.  In  the 
middle  of  January  the  islands  are  partially  cleared  of  snow,  where  a  few  patches  of 
short  straggling  grass  spring  up  in  favorable  situations;  but  the  seals  do  not  resort 
to  it  for  food.  They  remain  on  the  rocks  not  less  than  two  months,  without  any 
sustenance,  when  they  return  much  emaciated  to  the  sea. 

Bears  of  various  species  and  colors,  many  varieties  of  the  fox,  the  wolf,  the 
beaver,  the  otter,  the  marten,  the  racoon,  the  badger,  the  wolverine,  the  mink,  the 
'ynx,  the  muskrat,  the  woodchuck,  the  rabbit,  the  hare,  and  the  squirrel,  are  natives 
of  North  America. 


APPENDIX.  383 

The  beaver,  otter,  lynx,  flsher,  hare,  and  racoon,  are  used  principally  for  hats; 
while  the  bears  of  several  varieties  furnish  an  excellent  material  for  sleigh  linings, 
for  cavalry  caps,  and  other  military  equipments.  The  fur  of  the  black  fox  is  the 
most  valuable  of  any  of  the  American  varieties;  and  next  to  that  the  red,  which  is 
exported  to  China  and  Smyrna.  In  China,  the  red  is  employed  for  trimmings,  lin 
ings,  and  robes,  the  latter  being  variegated  by  adding  the  black  fur  of  the  paws,  in 
spots  or  waves.  There  are  many  other  varieties  of  American  fox,  such  as  the  gray, 
the  white,  the  cross,  the  silver,  and  the  dun-colored.  The  silver  fox  is  a  rare  ani 
mal,  a  native  of  the  woody  country  below  the  falls  of  the  Columbia  River.  It  has  a 
long,  thick,  deep  lead-colored  fur,  intermingled  with  long  hairs,  invariably  white  at 
the  top,  forming  a  bright  lustrous  silver  gray,  esteemed  by  some  more  beautiful 
than  any  other  kind  of  fox. 

The  skins  of  the  buffalo,  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep,  of  various  deer  and  of  the 
antelope,  are  included  in  the  fur  trade  with  the  Indians  and  trappers  of  the  north 
and  west. 

Fox  and  seal  skins  are  sent  from  Greenland  to  Denmark.  The  white  fur  of  the 
arctic  fox  and  polar  bear  is  sometimes  found  in  the  packs  brought  to  the  traders  by 
the  most  northern  tribes  of  Indians,  but  is  not  particularly  valuable.  The  silver- 
tipped  rabbit  is  peculiar  to  England,  and  is  sent  thence  to  Russia  and  China. 

Other  furs  are  employed  and  valued  according  to  the  caprices  of  fashion  as  well 
in  those  countries  where  they  are  needed  for  defences  against  severity  of  the  sea 
sons,  as  among  the  inhabitants  of  milder  climates,  who,  being  of  Tartar  or  Sclavon- 
ian  descent,  are  said  to  inherit  an  attachment  to  furred  clothing.  Such  are  the 
inhabitants  of  Poland,  of  Southern  Russia,  of  China,  of  Persia,  of  Turkey  and  all 
the  nations  of  Gothic  origin  in  the  middle  and  western  parts  of  Europe.  Under  the 
burning  suns  of  Syria  and  Egypt  and  the  mild  climes  of  Bucharia  and  Independent 
Tartary,  there  is  also  a  constant  demand,  and  a  great  consumption,  where  there 
exists  no  physical  necessity.  In  our  own  temperate  latitudes  besides  their  use  in 
the  arts,  they  are  in  request  for  warmth  during  the  winter,  and  large  quantities  are 
annually  consumed  for  both  purposes  in  the  United  States. 

From  the  foregoing  statements  it  appears  that  the  fur  trade  must  henceforward 
decline.  The  advanced  state  of  geographical  science  shows  that  no  new  countries 
remain  to  be  explored.  In  North  America  the  animals  are  slowly  decreasing,  from 
the  persevering  efforts  and  the  indiscriminate  slaughter  practised  by  the  hunters, 
and  by  the  appropriation  to  the  uses  of  man  of  those  forests  and  rivers  which  have 
afforded  them  food  and  protection.  They  recede  with  the  aborigines,  before  the 
tide  of  civilization  ;  but  a  diminished  supply  will  remain  in  the  mountains  and  un 
cultivated  tracts  of  this  and  other  countries,  if  the  avidity  of  the  hunter  can  be 
restfained  within  proper  limitations. 

Height  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Various  estimates  have  been  made  of  the  height  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but  it 
is  doubtful  whether  any  have,  as  yet,  done  justice  to  their  real  altitude,  which 
promises  to  place  them  only  second  to  the  highest  mountains  of  the  known  world. 
Their  height  has  been  diminished  to  the  eye  by  the  great  elevation  of  the  plains 
from  which  they  rise.  They  consist,  according  to  Long,  of  ridges,  knobs,  and 
peaks,  variously  disposed.  The  more  elevated  parts  are  covered  with  perpetual 
snows,  which  contribute  to  give  them  a  luminous,  and,  at  a  great  distance,  even  a 
brilliant  appearance  ;  whence  they  derived,  among  some  of  the  first  discoverers,  the 
name  of  the  Shining  Mountains. 

James's  Peak  has  generally  been  cited  as  the  highest  of  the  chain  ;  and  its  eleva 
tion  above  the  common  level  has  been  ascertained,  by  a  trigonometrical  measure 
ment,  to  be  about  eight  thousand  five  hundred  feet.  Mr.  Long,  however,  judged, 
from  the  position  of  the  snow  near  the  summits  of  other  peaks  and  ridges  at  no 
great  distance  from  it,  that  they  were  much  higher.  Having  heard  Professor  Ren. 
wick,  of  New  York,  express  an  altitude  of  these  mountains  far  beyond  what  had 


384  APPENDIX, 

usually  been  ascribed  to  them,  we  applied  to  him  for  the  authority  on  which  he 
grounded  his  observation,  and  here  subjoin  his  reply : 

COLUMBIA  COLLEGE,  NEW  YORK,  Feb.  23, 1836. 

DEAR  SIR  :  In  compliance  with  your  request,  I  have  to  communicate  some  facts 
in  relation  to  the  height  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  sources  whence  I  obtained 
the  information. 

In  conversation  with  Simon  M'Gillivray,  Esq.,  a  partner  of  the  Northwest  Com 
pany,  he  stated  to  me  his  impression,  that  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
route  pursued  by  the  traders  of  that  company  were  nearly  as  high  as  the  Himalay 
as.  He  had  himself  crossed  by  this  route,  seen  the  snowy  summits  of  the  peaks, 
and  experienced  a  degree  of  cold  which  required  a  spirit  thermometer  to  indicate  it. 
His  authority  for  the  estimate  of  the  heights  was  a  gentleman  who  had  been  em 
ployed  for  several  years  as  surveyor  of  that  company.  This  conversation  oc 
curred  about  sixteen  years  since. 

A  year  or  two  after  I  had  the  pleasure  of  dining  at  Major  Delafield's  with  Mr. 
Thompson,  the  gentleman  referred  to  by  Mr.  M'Gillivray.  I  inquired  of  him  in 
relation  to  the  circumstances  mentioned  by  Mr.  M'Gillivray,  and  he  stated  that,  by 
the  joint  means  of  the  barometric  and  trigonometric  measurement,  he  had  ascer 
tained  the  height  of  one  of  the  peaks  to  be  about  twenty-five  thousand  feet,  and 
there  were  others  of  nearly  the  same  height  in  the  vicinity. 
I  am,  dear  sir,  yours  truly, 

JAMES  RENWICK. 

To  W.  IRVING,  Esq. 


Suggestions  with  respect  to  the  Indian  Tribes,  and  the  Protection  of  our  Trade. 

In  the  course  of  this  work,  a  few  general  remarks  have  been  hazarded  respecting 
the  Indian  tribes  of  the  prairies,  and  the  dangers  to  be  apprehended  from  them  in 
future  times  to  our  trade  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  with  the  Spanish  fron 
tiers.  Since  writing  those  remarks,  we  have  met  with  some  excellent  observations 
and  suggestions,  in  manuscript,  on  the  same  subject,  written  by  Captain  Bonneville, 
of  the  United  States  army,  who  has  lately  returned  from  a  long  residence  among 
the  tribes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Captain  B.  approves  highly  of  the  plan  recently 
adopted  by  the  United  States  government  for  the  organization  of  a  regiment  of 
dragoons  for  the  protection  of  our  western  frontier,  and  the  trade  across  the  prai 
ries.  "No  other  species  of  military  force,"  he  observes,  "is  at  all  competent  to 
cope  with  these  restless  and  wandering  hordes,  who  require  to  be  opposed  with 
swiftness  quite  as  much  as  with  strength;  and  the  consciousness  that  a  troop,  uni 
ting  these  qualifications,  is  always  on  the  alert  to  avenge  their  outrages  upon  the 
settlers  and  traders,  will  go  very  far  toward  restraining  them  from  the  perpetration 
of  those  thefts  and  murders  which  they  have  heretofore  committed  with  impunity, 
whenever  stratagem  or  superiority  of  force  has  given  them  the  advantage.  Their 
interest  already  has  done  something  toward  their  pacification  with  our  country 
men.  From  the  traders  among  them,  they  receive  their  supplies  in  the  greatest 
abundance,  and  upon  very  equitable  terms;  and  when  it  is  remembered  that  a  very 
considerable  amount  of  property  is  yearly  distributed  among  them  by  the  govern 
ment,  as  presents,  it  will  readily  be  perceived  that  they  are  greatly  dependent  upon 
us  for  their  most  valued  resources.  If,  superadded  to  this  inducement,  a  frequent 
display  of  military  power  be  made  in  their  territories,  there  can  be  little  doubt  that 
the  desired  security  and  peace  will  be  speedily  afforded  to  our  own  people.  But 
the  idea  of  establishing  a  permanent  amity  and  concord  among  the  various  east 
and  west  tribes  themselves,  seems  to  me,  if  not  wholly  impracticable,  at  least  infin 
itely  more  difficult  than  many  excellent  philanthropists  have  hoped  and  believed. 
Those  nations  which  have  so  lately  emigrated  from  the  midst  of  our  settlements  to 
live  upon  our  western  borders,  and  have  made  some  progress  in  agriculture  and  the 


APPENDIX.  385 

arts  of  civilization,  have,  in  the  property  they  have  acquired,  and  the  protection 
and  aid  extended  to  them,  too  many  advantages  to  be  induced  readily  to  take  up 
arms  against  us,  particularly  if  they  can  be  brought  to  the  full  conviction  tiiat  their 
new  homes  will  be  permanent  and  undisturbed;  and  there  is  every  reason  and 
motive,  in  policy  as  well  as  humanity,  for  our  ameliorating  their  condition  by  every 
means  in  our  power.  But  the  case  is  far  different  with  regard  to  the  Osages,  the 
Kanzas,  the  Pawnees,  and  other  roving  hordes  beyond  the  frontiers  of  the  settle 
ments.  Wild  and  restless  in  their  character  and  habits,  they  are  by  no  means  so 
susceptible  of  control  or  civilization;  and  they  are  urged  by  strong,  and,  to  them, 
irresistible  causes  in  their  situation  and  necessities,  to  the  daily  perpetration  of  vio 
lence  and  fraud.  Their  permanent  subsistence,  for  example,  is  derived  from  the 
buffalo  hunting  grounds,  which  lie  a  great  distance  from  their  towns.  Twice  a 
year  they  are  obliged  to  make  long  and  dangerous  expeditions,  to  procure  the  neces 
sary  provisions  for  themselves  and  their  families.  For  this  purpose  horses  are 
absolutely  requisite,  for  their  own  comfort  and  safety,  as  well  as  for  the  transpor 
tation  of  their  food  and  their  little  stock  of  valuables;  and  without  them  they  would 
be  reduced,  during  a  great  portion  of  the  year,  to  a  state  of  abject  misery  and  pri 
vation.  They  have  no  brood  mares,  nor  any  trade  sufficiently  valuable  to  supply 
their  yearly  losses,  and  endeavor  to  keep  up  their  stock  by  stealing  horses  from 
the  other  tribes  to  the  west  and  south-west.  Our  own  people,  and  the  tribes  imme 
diately  upon  our  borders,  may  indeed  be  protected  from  their  depredations;  and 
the  Kanzas,  Osages,  Pawnees,  and  others,  may  be  induced  to  remain  at  peace 
among  themselves,  so  long  as  they  are  permitted  to  pursue  the  old  custom  of  levy 
ing  upon  the  Camanches  and  other  remote  nations  for  their  complement  of  steeds 
for  the  warriors,  and  pack-horses  for  their  transportations  to  and  from  the  hunting 
ground.  But  the  instant  they  are  forced  to  maintain  a  peaceful  and  inoffensive 
demeanor  toward  the  tribes  along  the  Mexican  border,  and  find  that  every  violation 
of  their  rights  is  followed  by  the  avenging  arm  of  our  government,  the  result  must 
be,  that,  reduced  to  a  wretchedness  and  want  which  they  can  ill  brook,  and  feeling 
the  certainty  of  punishment  for  every  attempt  to  ameliorate  their  condition  in  the 
only  way  they  as  yet  comprehend,  they  will  abandon  their  unfruitful  territory  and 
remove  to  the  neighborhood  of  the  Mexican  lands,  and  there  carry  on  a  vigorous 
predatory  warfare  indiscriminately  upon  the  Mexicans  and  our  own  people  trading 
or  travelling  in  that  quarter. 

"  The  Indians  of  the  prairies  are  almost  innumerable.  Their  superior  horseman. 
ship,  which,  in  my  opinion,  far  exceeds  that  of  any  other  people  on  the  face  of  the 
earth,  their  daring  bravery,  their  cunning  and  skill  in  the  warfare  of  the  wilderness, 
and  the  astonishing  rapidity  and  secrecy  with  which  they  are  accustomed  to  move 
in  their  martial  expeditions,  will  always  render  them  most  dangerous  and  vexatious 
neighbors,  when  their  necessities  or  their  discontents  may  drive  them  to  hostility 
with  our  frontiers.  Their  mode  and  principles  of  warfare  will  always  protect  them 
from  final  and  irretrievable  defeat,  and  secure  their  families  from  participating  in 
any  blow  however  severe,  which  our  retribution  might  deal  out  to  them. 

"The  Camanches  lay  the  Mexicans  under  contribution  for  horses  and  mules, 
which  they  are  always  engaged  in  stealing  from  them  in  incredible  numbers;  and 
from  the  Camanches,  all  the  roving  tribes  of  the  far  West,  by  a  similar  exertion  of 
skill  and  daring,  supply  themselves  in  turn.  It  seems  to  me,  therefore,  under  all 
these  circumstances,  that  the  apparent  futility  of  any  philanthropic  schemes  for 
the  benefit  of  these  nations,  and  a  regard  for  our  own  protection,  concur  in  recom 
mending  that  we  remain  satisfied  with  maintaining  peace  upon  our  own  immediate 
borders,  and  leave  the  Mexicans  and  the  Camanches,  and  all  the  tribes  hostile  to 
these  last,  to  settle  their  differences  and  difficulties  in  their  own  way. 

"In  order  to  give  full  security  and  protection  to  our  trading  parties  circulating 
in  all  directions  through  the  great  prairies,  I  am  under  the  impression  that  a  few 
judicious  measures  on  the  part  of  the  government,  involving  a  very  limited  expense, 
would  be  sufficient.  And,  in  attaining  this  end,  which  of  itself  has  already  become 
an  object  of  public  interest  and  import,  another,  of  much  greater  consequence, 


386  APPENDIX. 

might  be  brought  about,  viz.,  the  securing  to  the  States  a  most  valuable  and  in 
creasing  trade,  now  carried  on  by  caravans  directly  to  Santa  F6. 

"As  to  the  first  desideratum:  the  Indians  can  only  be  made  to  respect  the  lives 
and  property  of  the  American  parties,  by  rendering  them  dependent  upon  us  for 
their  supplies;  which  can  alone  be  done  with  complete  effect  by  the  establishment 
of  a  trading  post,  with  resident  traders,  at  some  point  which  will  unite  a  sufficient 
number  of  advantages  to  attract  the  several  tribes  to  itself,  in  preference  to  their 
present  places  of  resort  for  that  purpose;  for  it  is  a  well-known  fact  that  the  Indians 
will  always  protect  their  trader,  and  those  in  whom  he  is  interested,  so  long  as  they 
derive  benefits  from  him.  The  alternative  presented  to  those  at  the  north,  by  the 
residence  of  the  agents  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  among  them,  renders  the 
condition  of  our  people  in  that  quarter  less  secure;  but  I  think  it  will  appear,  at 
once  upon  the  most  cursory  examination,  that  no  such  opposition  further  south 
could  be  maintained,  so  as  to  weaken  the  benefits  of  such  an  establishment  as  is 
here  suggested. 

"In  considering  this  matter,  the  first  question  which  presents  itself  is,  Where  do 
these  tribes  now  make  their  exchanges,  and  obtain  their  necessary  supplies?  They 
resort  almost  exclusively  to  the  Mexicans,  who  themselves  purchase  from  us  what 
ever  the  Indians  most  seek  for.  In  this  point  of  view,  therefore,  cceteris  paribus, 
it  would  be  an  easy  matter  for  us  to  monopolize  the  whole  traffic.  All  that  is  want 
ing  is  some  location  more  convenient  for  the  natives  than  that  offered  by  the  Mexi 
cans,  to  give  us  the  undisputed  superiority;  and  the  selection  of  such  a  point  re 
quires  but  a  knowledge  of  the  single  fact,  that  these  nations  invariably  winter  upon 
the  head  waters  of  the  Arkansas,  and  there  -prepare  all  their  buffalo  robes  for 
trade.  These  robes  are  heavy,  and  to  the  Indian  very  difficult  of  transportation. 
Nothing  but  necessity  induces  them  to  travel  any  great  distance  with  such  inconve 
nient  baggage.  A  post,  therefore,  established  upon  the  headwaters  of  the  Arkansas, 
must  infallibly  secure  an  uncontested  preference  over  that  of  the  Mexicans,  even  at 
their  prices  and  rates  of  barter.  Then  let  the  dragoons  occasionally  move  about 
among  these  people  in  large  parties,  impressing  them  with  the  proper  estimate  of 
our  power  to  protect  and  to  punish,  and  at  once  we  have  complete  and  assured 
security  for  all  citizens  whose  enterprise  may  lead  them  beyond  the  border,  and  an 
end  to  the  outrages  and  depredations  which  now  dog  the  footsteps  of  the  traveller 
in  the  prairies,  and  arrest  and  depress  the  most  advantageous  commerce.  Such  a 
post  need  not  be  stronger  than  fifty  men;  twenty -five  to  be  employed  as  hunters,  to 
supply  the  garrison,  and  the  residue  as  a  defence  against  any  hostility.  Situated 
here  upon  the  good  lands  of  the  Arkansas,  in  the  midst  of  abundance  of  timber, 
while  it  might  be  kept  up  at  a  most  inconsiderable  expense,  such  an  establishment 
within  ninety  miles  of  Santa  F6  or  Taos  would  be  more  than  justified  by  the  other 
and  more  important  advantages  before  alluded  to,  leaving  the  protection  of  the 
traders  with  the  Indian  tribes  entirely  out  of  the  question. 

"  This  great  trade,  carried  on  by  caravans  to  Santa  F6,  annually  loads  one  hun 
dred  wagons  with  merchandise,  which  is  bartered  in  the  northern  provinces  of 
Mexico  for  cash  and  for  beaver  furs.  The  numerous  articles  excluded  as  contra 
band,  and  the  exorbitant  duties  laid  upon  all  those  that  are  admitted  by  the  Mexi 
can  government,  present  so  many  obstacles  to  commerce,  that  I  am  well  persuaded 
that  if  a  post,  such  as  is  here  suggested,  should  be  established  on  the  Arkansas,  it 
would  become  the  place  of  deposit,  not  only  for  the  present  trade,  but  for  one  infi 
nitely  more  extended.  Here  the  Mexicans  might  purchase  their  supplies,  and  might 
well  afford  to  sell  them  at  prices  which  would  silence  all  competition  from  any 
other  quarter. 

"These  two  trades,  with  the  Mexican  sand  the  Indians,  centering  at  this  post, 
would  give  rise  to  a  large  village  of  traders  and  laborers,  and  would  undoubtedly 
be  hailed,  by  all  that  section  of  country,  as  a  permanent  and  invaluable  advantage. 
A  few  pack-horses  would  carry  all  the  clothing  and  ammunition  necessary  for  the 
post  during  the  first  year,  and  two  light  field-pieces  would  be  all  the  artillery  re 
quired  for  its  defence.  Afterward,  all  the  horses  required  for  the  use  of  the  estab- 


APPENDIX.  387 

lishment  might  be  purchased  from  the  Mexicans  at  the  low  price  of  ten  dollars  each; 
and,  at  the  same  time,  whatever  animals  might  be  needed  to  supply  the  losses 
among  the  dragoons  traversing  the  neighborhood,  could  be  readily  procured.  The 
Upper  Missouri  Indians  can  furnish  horses,  at  very  cheap  rates,  to  any  number  ot 
the  same  troops  who  might  be  detailed  for  the  defence  of  the  northern  frontier; 
and,  in  other  respects,  a  very  limited  outlay  of  money  would  suffice  to  maintain  a 
post  in  that  section  of  the  country. 

"From  these  considerations,  and  my  own  personal  observation,  I  am,  therefore, 
disposed  to  believe  that  two  posts  established  by  the  government,  one  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Yellow  Stone  River,  and  one  on  the  Arkansas,  would  completely  protect  all 
our  people  in  every  section  of  the  great  wilderness  of  the  West;  while  other  advan 
tages,  at  least  with  regard  to  one  of  them,  confirm  and  urge  the  suggestion.  A  fort 
at  the  mouth  of  Yellow  Stone,  garrisoned  by  fifty  men,  would  be  perfectly  safe. 
The  establishment  might  be  constructed  simply  with  a  view  to  the  stores,  stables 
for  the  dragoons1  horses,  and  quarters  for  the  regular  garrison;  the  rest  being  pro 
vided  with  sheds  or  lodges,  erected  in  the  vicinity,  for  their  residence  during  the 
winter  months." 


THE  ENIX 


A   TOUR 


THE  PKAIKIES. 


BT 


WASHINGTON    IRVING. 


CHICAGO   AND   NEW  YORK  : 

BELFORD,  CLARKE   &    COMPANY, 

PUBLISHERS. 


TROWS 

PRINTING  AND  BOOKBINDING  COMPAQ 
NEW  YORK. 


A  TOUR   ON  THE   PRAIRIES. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

Introduction 5 

I.  The  Pawnee  Hunting  Grounds— Travelling  Companions— A  Commis 
sioner—A  Virtuoso— A  Seeker  of  Adventures— A  Gil  Bias  of  the 
Frontier— A  Young  Man's  Anticipations  of  Pleasure 7 

II.  Anticipations  Disappointed— New  Plans— Preparations  to  Join  an  Ex 
ploring  Party— Departure  from  Fort  Gibson— Fording  of  the  Ver 
digris—An  Indian  Cavalier 10 

HI.  An  Indian  Agency— Riflemen— Osages,  Creeks,  Trappers,  Dogs,  Horses, 

Half-breeds— Beatte,  the  Huntsman 13 

IV.  The  Departure 16 

V.  Frontier   Scenes— A   Lycurgus   of    the   Border— Lynch's   Law— The 

Danger  of  Finding  a  Horse— The  Young  Osage 17 

VI.  Trail  of  the  Osage  Hunters— Departure  of  the  Count  and  his  Party— A 

Deserted  War-Camp— A  Vagrant  Dog— The  Encampment 21 

VII.  News  of  the  Rangers— The  Count  and  his  Indian  Squire— Halt  in  the 
Woods— Woodland  Scene— Osage  Village— Osage  Visitors  at  our 
Evening  Camp  23 

Vin.  The  Honey  Camp 28 

IX.  A  Bee  Hnnt 30 

X.  Amusements  in  the  Camp— Consultations— Hunters'  Fare  and  Feast 
ing—Evening  Scenes— Camp  Melody -The  Fate  of  an  Amateur  Owl.  23 

XI.  Breaking  up  of  the  Encampment— Picturesque  March— Game— Camp 
Scenes— Triumph  of  a  Young  Hunter— 111  Success  of  an  Old  Hunter 
—Foul  Murder  of  a  Pole  Cat 37 

XH.  The  Crossing  of  the  Arkansas 42 

XHI.  The  Camp  of  the  Glen— Camp  Gossip— Pawnees  and  their  Habits— A 

Hunter's  Adventure— Horses  found  and  Men  Lost 44 

XTV.  Deer  Shooting— Life  on  the  Prairies— Beautiful  Encampment— Hunter's 

Luck— Anecdotes  of  the  Delawares  and  their  Superstitions 60 

XV.  The  Search  for  the  Elk— Pawnee  Stories. . .  .54 


4  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

XVI.  A  Sick  Camp— The  March— The  Disabled  Horse— Old  Ryan  and  the 
Stragglers  —  Symptoms  of  change  of  Weather  and  change  of 
Humors 59 

XVU.  Thunder-storm  on  the  Prairies  — The    Storm   Encampment  —  Night 

Scene— Indian  Stories— A  Frightened  Horse 63 

XVHI.  A  Grand   Prairie  —  Cliff   Castle  —  Buff alo  Tracks— Deer  Hunted  by 

Wolves— Cross  Timber 66 

XIX.  Hunter's  Anticipations— The  Rugged  Ford— A  Wild  Horse  69 

XX.  The  Camp  of  the  Wild  Horse— Hunters'  Stories— Habits  of  the  Wild 
Horse— The  Half-breed  and  his  Prize— A  Horse  Chase— A  Wild  Spirit 
Tamed 72 

YXT.  The  Fording  of  the  Red  Fork— The  Dreary  Forests  of  the  "Cross 

Timber"— Buffalo ! 77 

XXH.  The  Alarm  Camp  80 

XXIII.  Beaver  Dam  — Buffalo  and  Horse  Tracks  — A  Pawnee  Trail  — Wild 

Horses — The  Young  Hunter  and  the  Bear — Change  of  Route 86 

XXIV.  Scarcity  of  Bread— Rencontre  with  Buffaloes— Wild  Turkeys— Fall  of  a 

Buffalo  Bull 89 

XXV.  Ringing  the  Wild  Horse 92 

XXVI.  Fording  of  the  North  Fork— Dreary  Scenery  of  the  Cross  Timber- 
Scamper  of  Horses  in  the  Night— Osage  War  Party— Effects  of  a 
Peace  Harangue— Buffalo— Wild  Horse 95 

XXVH.  Foul  Weather  Encampment  —  Anecdotes  of  Bear  Hunting  —  Indian 

Notions  about  Omens— Scruples  respecting  the  Dead 98 

XXVIII.  A  Secret  Expedition— Deer  Bleating— Magic  Bells 105 

XXIX.  The  Grand  Prairie— A  Buffalo  Hunt 108 

XXX.  A  Comrade  Lost— A  Search  for  the  Camp— Commissioner,  the  Wild 

Horse,  and  the  Buffalo— A  Wolf  Serenade 115 

XXXI.  A  Hunt  for  a  Lost  Comrade 117 

XXXII.  A  Republic  of  Prairie  Dogs 121 


INTRODUCTION. 


HAVING,  since  my  return  to  the  United  States,  made  a  wide 
and  varied  tour,  for  the  gratification  of  my  curiosity,  it  has 
been  supposed  that  I  did  it  for  the  purpose  of  writing  a  book ; 
and  it  has  more  than  once  been  intimated  in  the  papers,  that 
such  a  work  was  actually  in  the  press,  containing  scenes  and 
sketches  of  the  Far  West. 

These  announcements,  gratuitously  made  for  me,  before  I 
had  put  pen  to  paper,  or  even  contemplated  any  thing  of  the 
kind,  have  embarrassed  me  exceedingly.  I  have  been  like  a 
poor  actor,  who  finds  himself  announced  for  a  part  he  had  no 
thought  of  playing,  and  his  appearance  expected  on  the  stage 
before  he  has  committed  a  line  to  memory. 

I  have  always  had  a  repugnance,  amounting  almost  to  dis 
ability,  to  write  in  the  face  of  expectation ;  and,  in  the  present 
instance,  I  was  expected  to  write  about  a  region  fruitful  of 
wonders  and  adventures,  and  which  had  already  been  made 
the  theme  of  spirit-stirring  narratives  from  able  pens;  yet 
about  which  I  had  nothing  wonderful  or  adventurous  to  offer. 

Since  such,  however,  seems  to  be  the  desire  of  the  public, 
and  that  they  take  sufficient  interest  in  my  wanderings  to 
deem  them  worthy  of  recital,  I  have  hastened,  as  promptly  as 
possible,  to  meet,  in  some  degree,  the  expectation  which  others 
have  excited.  For  this  purpose,  I  have,  as  it  were,  plucked  a 
few  leaves  out  of  my  memorandum  book,  containing  a  month's 
foray  beyond  the  outposts  of  human  habitation,  into  the  wilder 
ness  of  the  Far  West.  It  forms,  indeed,  but  a  small  portion 
of  an  extensive  tour ;  but  it  is  an  episode,  complete  as  far  as  it 
goes.  As  such,  I  offer  it  to  the  public,  with  great  diffidence. 
It  is  a  simple  narrative  of  every-day  occurrences;  such  as 
happen  to  every  one  who  travels  the  prairies.  I  have  no  won 
ders  to  describe,  nor  any  moving  accidents  by  flood  or  field  to 
narrate ;  and  as  to  those  who  look  for  a  marvellous  or  adven 
turous  story  at  my  hands,  I  can  only  reply,  in  the  words  of 
the  weary  knife-grinder:  " Story !  God  bless  you,  I  have  none 
to  tell,  sir." 


A  TOUR  ON  THE   PRAIRIES. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  PAWNEE  HUNTING  GROUNDS. — TRAVELLING  COMPANIONS.— 
A  COMMISSIONER. — A  VIRTUOSO.— A  SEEKER  OF  ADVENTURES. 
— A  GIL  BLAS  OF  THE  FRONTIER. — A  YOUNG  MAN'S  ANTICIPA 
TIONS  OF  PLEASURE. 

IN  the  often  vaunted  regions  of  the  Far  West,  several  hun 
dred  miles  beyond  the  Mississippi,  extends  a  vast  tract  of  un 
inhabited  country,  where  there  is  neither  to  be  seen  the  log- 
house  of  the  white  man,  nor  the  wigwam  of  the  Indian.  It 
consists  of  great  grassy  plains,  interspersed  with  forests  and 
groves,  and  clumps  of  trees,  and  watered  by  the  Arkansas,  the 
grand  Canadian,  the  Red  River,  and  their  tributary  streams. 
Over  these  fertile  and  verdant  wastes  still  roam  the  elk,  the 
buffalo,  and  the  wild  horse,  in  all  their  native  freedom.  These, 
in  fact,  are  the  hunting  grounds  of  the  various  tribes  of  the 
Far  West.  Hither  repair  the  Osage,  the  Creek,  the  Delaware 
and  other  tribes  that  have  linked  themselves  with  civilization, 
and  live  within  the  vicinity  of  the  white  settlements.  Here 
resort  also,  the  Pawnees,  the  Comanches,  and  other  fierce, 
and  as  yet  independent  tribes,  the  nomads  of  the  prairies,  or 
the  inhabitants  of  the  skirts  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The 
regions  I  have  mentioned  form  a  debatable  ground  of  these 
warring  and  vindictive  tribes ;  none  of  them  presume  to  erect 
a  permanent  habitation  within  its  borders.  Their  hunters 
and  "Braves"  repair  thither  in  numerous  bodies  during  the 
season  of  game,  throw  up  their  transient  hunting  camps,  con 
sisting  of  light  bowers  covered  with  bark  and  skins,  commit 
sad  havoc  among  the  innumerable  herds  that  graze  the  prairies, 
and  having  loaded  themselves  with  venison  and  buffalo  meat, 
warily  retire  from  the  dangerous  neighborhood.  These  expe 
ditions  partake,  always,  of  a  warlike  character;  the  hunters 


8  A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

are  all  armed  for  action,  offensive  and  defensive,  and  are  bound 
to  incessant  vigilance.  Should  they,  in  their  excursions,  meet 
the  hunters  of  an  adverse  tribe,  savage  conflicts  take  place. 
Their  encampments,  too,  are  always  subject  to  be  surprised 
by  wandering  war  parties,  and  their  hunters,  when  scattered 
in  pursuit  of  game,  to  be  captured  or  massacred  by  lurking 
foes.  Mouldering  skulls  and  skeletons,  bleaching  in  some  dark 
ravine,  or  near  the  traces  of  a  hunting  camp,  occasionally  mark 
the  scene  of  a  foregone  act  of  blood,  and  let  the  wanderer  know 
the  dangerous  nature  of  the  region  he  is  traversing.  It  is 
the  purport  of  the  following  pages  to  narrate  a  month's  ex 
cursion  to  these  noted  hunting  grounds,  through  a  tract  of 
country  which  had  not  as  yet  been  explored  by  white  men. 

It  was  early  in  October,  1832,  that  I  arrived  at  Fort  Gibson, 
a  frontier  post  of  the  Far  West,  situated  on  the  Neosho,  or 
Grand  Eiver,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Arkansas.  I  had 
been  travelling  for  a  month  past,  with  a  small  party  from  St. 
Louis,  up  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  and  along  the  frontier 
line  of  agencies  and  missions  that  extends  from  the  Missouri 
to  the  Arkansas.  Our  party  was  headed  by  one  of  the  Com 
missioners  appointed  by  the  government  of  the  United  States, 
to  superintend  the  settlement  of  the  Indian  tribes  migrating 
from  the  east  to  the  west  of  the  Mississippi.  In  the  discharge 
of  his  duties,  he  was  thus  visiting  the  various  outposts  of  civili 
zation. 

And  here  let  me  bear  testimony  to  the  merits  of  this  worthy 
leader  of  our  little  band.  He  was  a  native  of  one  of  the  towns 
of  Connecticut,  a  man  in  whom  a  course  of  legal  practice  and 
political  life  had  not  been  able  to  vitiate  an  innate  simplicity 
and  benevolence  of  heart.  The  greater  part  of  his  days  had 
been  passed  in  tho  bosom  of  his  family  and  the  society  of  dea 
cons,  elders,  and  selectmen,  on  the  peaceful  banks  of  the  Con 
necticut;  when  suddenly  he  had  been  called  to  mount  his 
steed,  shoulder  his  rifle,  and  mingle  among  stark  hunters, 
backwoodsmen,  and  naked  savages,  on  the  trackless  wilds  of 
the  Far  West. 

Another  of  my  fellow-travellers  was  Mr.  L.,  an  Englishman 
by  birth,  but  descended  from  a  foreign  stock ;  and  who  had  all 
the  buoyancy  and  accommodating  spirit  of  a  native  of  the 
Continent.  Having  rambled  over  many  countries,  he  had  be 
come,  to  a  certain  degree,  a  citizen  of  the  world,  easily  adapt 
ing  himself  to  any  change.  He  was  a  man  of  a  thousand 
occupations;  a  botanist,  a  geologist,  a  hunter  of  beetles  and 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  9 

butterflies,  a  musical  amateur,  a  sketcher  of  no  mean  preten 
sions,  in  short,  a  complete  virtuoso ;  added  to  which,  he  was  a 
very  indefatigable,  if  not  always  a  very  successful,  sportsman. 
Never  had  a  man  more  irons  in  the  fire,  and,  consequently, 
never  was  man  more  busy  nor  more  cheerful. 

My  third  fellow-traveller  was  one  who  had  accompanied  the 
former  from.  Europe,  and  travelled  with  him  as  his  Telema- 
chus ;  being  apt,  like  his  prototype,  to  give  occasional  perplex 
ity  and  disquiet  to  his  Mentor.  He  was  a  young  Swiss  Count, 
scarce  twenty-one  years  of  age,  full  of  talent  and  spirit,  but 
galliard  in  the  extreme,  and  prone  to  every  kind  of  wild  ad 
venture. 

Having  made  this  mention  of  my  comrades,  I  must  not  pass 
over  unnoticed,  a  personage  of  inferior  rank,  but  of  all-per 
vading  and  prevalent  importance :  the  squire,  the  groom,  the 
cook,  the  tent  man,  in  a  word,  the  factotum,  and,  I  may  add, 
the  universal  meddler  and  marplot  of  our  party.  This  was  a 
little  swarthy,  meagre,  French  Creole,  named  Antoine,  but 
familiarly  dubbed  Tonish :  a  kind  of  Gil  Bias  of  the  frontier, 
who  had  passed  a  scrambling  life,  sometimes  among  white 
men,  sometimes  among  Indians ;  sometimes  in  the  employ  ot 
traders,  missionaries,  and  Indian  agents ;  sometimes  mingling 
with  the  Osage  hunters.  We  picked  him  up  at  St.  Louis,  near 
which  he  had  a  small  farm,  an  Indian  wife,  and  a  brood  of 
half-blood  children.  According  to  his  own  account,  however, 
he  had  a  wife  in  every  tribe ;  in  fact,  if  all  this  little  vagabond 
said  of  himself  were  to  be  believed,  he  was  without  morals, 
without  caste,  without  creed,  without  country,  and  even  with 
out  language ;  for  he  spoke  a  jargon  of  mingled  French,  En 
glish,  and  Osage.  He  was,  withal,  a  notorious  braggart,  and  a 
liar  of  the  first  water.  It  was  amusing  to  hear  him  vapor  and 
gasconade  about  his  terrible  exploits  and  hairbreadth  escapes 
in  war  and  hunting.  In  the  midst  of  his  volubility,  he  was 
prone  to  be  seized  by  a  spasmodic  gasping,  as  if  the  springs 
of  his  jaws  were  suddenly  unhinged ;  but  I  am  apt  to  think  it 
was  caused  by  some  falsehood  that  stuck  in  his  throat,  for  I 
generally  remarked  that  immediately  afterward  there  bolted 
forth  a  lie  of  the  first  magnitude. 

Our  route  had  been  a  pleasant  one,  quartering  ourselves,  oc 
casionally,  at  the  widely  separated  establishments  of  the  Indian 
missionaries,  but  in  general  camping  out  in  the  fine  groves 
that  border  the  streams,  and  sleeping  under  cover  of  a  tent. 
During  the  latter  part  of  our  tour  we  had  pressed  forward,  in 


10  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

hopes  of  arriving  in  time  at  Fort  Gibson  to  accompany  the 
Osage  hunters  on  their  autumnal  visit  to  the  buffalo  prairies. 
Indeed  the  imagination  of  the  young  Count  had  become  com 
pletely  excited  on  the  subject.  The  grand  scenery  and  wild 
habits  of  the  prairies  had  set  his  spirits  madding,  and  the 
stories  that  little  Tonish  told  him  of  Indian  braves  and  Indian 
beauties,  of  hunting  buffaloes  and  catching  wild  horses,  had 
set  him  all  agog  for  a  dash  into  savage  life.  He  was  a  bold 
and  hard  rider,  and  longed  to  be  scouring  the  hunting  grounds. 
It  was  amusing  to  hear  his  youthful  anticipations  of  all  that 
lie  was  to  see,  and  do,  and  enjoy,  when  mingling  among  the 
Indians  and  participating  in  their  hardy  adventures ;  and  it 
was  still  more  amusing  to  listen  to  the  gasconadings  of  little 
Tonish,  who  volunteered  to  be  his  faithful  squire  in  all  his 
perilous  undertakings;  to  teach  him  how  to  catch  the  wild 
horse,  bring'  down  the  buffalo,  and  win  the  smiles  of  Indian 
princesses;— "And  if  we  can  only  get  sight  of  a  prairie  on 
fire!"  said  the  young  Count — " By  Gar,  I'll  set  one  on  fire  my 
self!"  cried  the  little  Frenchman. 


CHAPTER  II. 

ANTICIPATIONS  DISAPPOINTED. — NEW  PLANS. — PREPARATIONS  TO 
JOIN  AN  EXPLORING  PARTY. —DEPARTURE  FROM  FORT  GIBSON. 
— FORDING  OF  THE  VERDIGRIS. — AN  INDIAN  CAVALIER. 


THE  anticipations  of  a  young  man  are  prone  to  meet  with 
disappointment.  Unfortunately  for  the  Count's  scheme  of 
wild  campaigning,  before  we  reached  the  end  of  our  journey, 
we  heard  that  the  Osage  hunters  had  set  forth  upon  their  ex 
pedition  to  the  buffalo  grounds.  The  Count  still  determined, 
if  possible,  to  follow  on  their  track  and  overtake  them,  and  for 
this  purpose  stopped  short  at  the  Osage  Agency,  a  few  miles 
distant  from  Fort  Gibson,  to  make  inquiries  and  preparations. 
His  travelling  companion,  Mr.  L. ,  stopped  with  him ;  while  the 
Commissioner  and  myself  proceeded  to  Fort  Gibson,  followed 
by  the  faithful  and  veracious  Tonish.  I  hinted  to  him  his 
promises  to  follow  the  Count  in  his  campaignings,  but  I  found 
the  little  varlet  had  a  keen  eye  to  self-interest.  He  was  aware 
that  the  Commissioner,  from  his  official  duties,  would  remain 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  11 

for  a  long  time  in  the  country,  and  be  likely  to  give  him  perma 
nent  employment,  while  the  sojourn  of  the  Count  would  be 
but  transient.  The  gasconading  of  the  little  braggart  was 
suddenly  therefore  at  an  end.  He  spake  not  another  word  to 
the  young  Count  about  Indians,  buffaloes,  and  wild  horses, 
but  putting  himself  tacitly  in  the  train  of  the  Commissioner, 
jogged  silently  after  us  to  the  garrison. 

On  arriving  at  the  fort,  however,  a  new  chance  presented 
itself  for  a  cruise  on  the  prairies.  We  learnt  that  a  company 
of  mounted  rangers,  or  riflemen,  had  departed  but  three  days 
previous  to  make  a  wide  exploring  tour  from  the  Arkansas  to 
the  Red  River,  including  a  part  of  the  Pawnee  hunting  grounds 
where  no  party  of  white  men  had  as  yet  penetrated.  Here, 
then,  was  an  opportunity  of  ranging  over  those  dangerous  and 
interesting  regions  under  the  safeguard  of  a  powerful  escort ; 
for  the  Commissioner,  in  virtue  of  his  office,  could  claim  the 
service  of  this  newly  raised  corps  of  riflemen,  and  the  country 
they  were  to  explore  was  destined  for  the  settlement  of  some 
of  the  migrating  tribes  connected  with  his  mission. 

Our  plan  was  promptly  formed  and  put  into  execution.  A 
couple  of  Creek  Indians  were  sent  off  express,  by  the  com 
mander  of  Fort  Gibson,  to  overtake  the  rangers  and  bring 
them  to  a  halt  until  the  Commissioner  and  his  party  should 
be  able  to  join  them.  As  we  should  have  a  march  of  three 
or  four  days  through  a  wild  country  before  we  could  over 
take  the  company  of  rangers,  an  escort  of  fourteen  mounted 
riflemen,  under  the  command  of  a  lieutenant,  was  assigned  us. 

We  sent  word  to  the  young  Count  and  Mr.  L.  at  the  Osage 
Agency,  of  our  new  plan  and  prospects,  and  invited  them  to 
accompany  us.  The  Count,  however,  could  not  forego  the  de 
lights  he  had  promised  himself  in  mingling  with  absolutely 
savage  life.  In  reply,  he  agreed  to  keep  with  us  until  we 
should  come  upon  the  trail  of  the  Osage  hunters,  when  ft  was 
his  fixed  resolve  to  strike  off  into  the  wilderness  in  pursuit  of: 
them ;  and  his  faithful  Mentor,  though  he  grieved  at  the  mad 
ness  of  the  scheme,  was  too  stanch  a  friend  to  desert  him.  A 
general  rendezvous  of  our  party  and  escort  was  appointed,  for 
the  following  morning,  at  the  Agency. 

We  now  made  all  arrangements  for  prompt  departure.  Our 
baggage  had  hitherto  been  transported  on  a  light  wagon,  but  we 
were  now  to  break  our  way  through  an  untravelled  country, 
cut  up  by  rivers,  ravines,  and  thickets,  where  a  vehicle  of  the 
kind  would  be  a  complete  impediment.  We  were  to  travel  on 


12  A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

horseback,  in  hunter's  style,  and  with  as  little  encumbrance  as 
possible.  Our  baggage,  therefore,  underwent  a  rigid  and  most 
abstemious  reduction.  A  pair  of  saddle-bags,  and  those  by  no 
means  crammed,  sufficed  for  each  man's  scanty  wardrobe,  and, 
with  his  great  coat,  were  to  be  carried  upon  the  steed  he  rode. 
The  rest  of  the  baggage  was  placed  on  pack-horses.  Each 
one  had  a  bear-skin  and  a  couple  of  blankets  for  bedding,  and 
there  was  a  tent  to  shelter  us  in  case  of  sickness  or  bad 
weather.  We  took  care  to  provide  ourselves  with  flour,  coffee, 
and  sugar,  together  with  a  small  supply  of  salt  pork  for  emer 
gencies  ;  for  our  main  subsistence  we  were  to  depend  upon  the 
chase. 

Such  of  our  horses  as  had  not  been  tired  out  in  our  recent 
journey,  were  taken  with  us  as  pack-horses,  or  supernumera 
ries  ;  but  as  we  were  going  on  a  long  and  rough  tour,  where 
there  would  be  occasional  hunting,  and  where,  in  case  of  meet 
ing  with  hostile  savages,  the  safety  of  the  rider  might  depend 
upon  the  goodness  of  his  steed,  we  took  care  to  be  well 
mounted.  I  procured  a  stout  silver-gray;  somewhat  rough, 
but  stanch  and  powerful ;  and  retained  a  hardy  pony  which  I 
had  hitherto  ridden,  and  which,  being  somewhat  jaded,  was 
suffered  to  ramble  along  with  the  pack-horses,  to  be  mounted 
only  in  case  of  emergency. 

All  these  arrangements  being  made,  we  left  Fort  Gibson,  on 
the  morning  of  the  tenth  of  October,  and  crossing  the  river  in 
front  of  it,  set  off  for  the  rendezvous  at  the  Agency.  A  ride  of 
a  few  miles  brought  us  to  the  ford  of  the  Verdigris,  a  wild 
rocky  scene  overhung  with  forest  trees.  We  descended  to  the 
bank  of  the  river  and  crossed  in  straggling  file,  the  horses 
stepping  cautiously  from  rock  to  rock,  and  in  a  manner  feeling 
about  for  a  foothold  beneath  the  rushing  and  brawling  stream. 

Our  little  Frenchman,  Tonish,  brought  up  the  rear  with  the 
pack-horses.  He  was  in  high  glee,  having  experienced  a  kind 
of  promotion.  In  our  journey  hitherto  he  had  driven  the 
wagon,  which  he  seemed  to  consider  a  very  inferior  employ ; 
now  he  was  master  of  the  horse. 

He  sat  perched  like  a  monkey  behind  the  pack  on  one  of  the 
horses ;  ho  sang,  he  shouted,  he  yelped  like  an  Indian,  and  ever 
and  anon  blasphemed  the  loitering  pack-horses  in  his  jargon  of 
mingled  French,  English,  and  Osage,  which  not  one  of  them 
could  understand. 

As  we  were  crossing  the  ford  we  saw  on  the  opposite  shore  a 
Creek  Indian  on  horseback.  He  had  paused  to  reconnoitre  us 


A   TOUR   ON    THE  PRAIRIES.  13 

from  the  brow  of  a  rock,  and  formed  a  picturesque  object,  in 
unison  with  the  wild  scenery  around  him.  He  wore  a  bright 
blue  hunting-shirt  trimmed  with  scarlet  fringe;  a  gayly  col 
ored  handkerchief  was  bound  round  his  head  something  like  a 
turban,  with  one  end  hanging  down  beside  his  ear ;  he  held  a 
Jong  rifle  in  his  hand,  and  looked  like  a  wild  Arab  on  the 
prowl.  Our  loquacious  and  ever-meddling  little  Frenchman 
called  out  to  him  in  his  Babylonish  jargon,  but  the  savage  hav 
ing  satisfied  his  curiosity  tossed  his  hand  in  the  air,  turned  the 
head  of  his  steed,  and  galloping  along  the  shore  soon  disap 
peared  among  the  trees. 


CHAPTER  III. 

AN    INDIAN     AGENCY. — RIFLEMEN.  — OSAGES,    CREEKS,     TRAPPERS, 
DOGS,    HORSES,    HALF-BREEDS. — BEATTE,    THE  HUNTSMAN. 

HAVING  crossed  the  ford,  we  soon  reached  the  Osage  Agency, 
where  Col.  Choteau  has  his  offices  and  magazines,  for  the  de 
spatch  of  Indian  affairs,  and  the  distribution  of  presents  and 
supplies.  It  consisted  of  a  few  log  houses  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  and  presented  a  motley  frontier  scene.  Here  was  our 
escort  awaiting  our  arrival ;  some  were  on  horseback,  some  on 
foot,  some  seated  on  the  trunks  of  fallen  trees,  some  shooting 
at  a  mark.  They  were  a  heterogeneous  crew ;  some  in  frock- 
coats  made  of  green  blankets;  others  in  leathern  hunting- 
shirts,  but  the  most  part  in  marvellously  ill-cut  garments, 
much  the  worse  for  wear,  and  evidently  put  on  for  rugged  ser 
vice. 

Near  by  these  was  a  group  of  Osages :  stately  fellows ;  stern 
and  simple  in  garb  and  aspect.  They  wore  no  ornaments; 
their  dress  consisted  merely  of  blankets,  leggings,  and  mocca- 
sons.  Their  heads  were  bare ;  their  hair  was  cropped  close,  ex 
cepting  a  bristling  ridge  on  the  top,  like  the  crest  of  a  helmet, 
with  a  long  scalp-lock  hanging  behind.  They  had  fine  Roman 
countenances,  and  broad  deep  chests ;  and,  as  they  generally 
wore  their  blankets  wrapped  round  their  loins,  so  as  to  leave 
the  bust  and  arms  bare,  they  looked  like  so  many  noble  bronze 
figures.  The  Osages  are  the  finest  looking  Indians  I  have  ever 
seen  in  the  West.  They  have  not  yielded  sufficiently,  as  yet,  to 


14  A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

the  influence  of  civilization  to  lay  by  their  simple  Indian  garb, 
or  to  lose  the  habits  of  the  hunter  and  the  warrior ;  and  their 
poverty  prevents  their  indulging  in  much  luxury  of  apparel. 

In  contrast  to  these  was  a  gayly  dressed  party  of  Creeks. 
There  is  something,  at  the  first  glance,  quite  oriental  in  the 
appearance  of  this  tribe.  They  dress  in  calico  hunting  shirts, 
of  various  brilliant  colors,  decorated  with  bright  fringes,  and 
belted  with  broad  girdles,  embroidered  with  beads ;  they  have 
leggings  of  dressed  deer  skins,  or  of  green  or  scarlet  cloth,  with 
embroidered  knee-bands  and  tassels ;  their  moccasons  are  fan 
cifully  wrought  and  ornamented,  and  they  wear  gaudy  hand 
kerchiefs  tastefully  bound  round  their  heads. 

Besides  these,  there  was  a  sprinkling  of  trappers,  hunters, 
half-breeds,  Creoles,  negroes  of  every  hue;  and  all  that  other 
rabble  rout  of  nondescript  beings  that  Tieep  about  the  fron 
tiers,  between  civilized  and  savage  life,  as  those  equivocal 
birds,  the  bats,  hover  about  the  confines  of  light  and  darkness. 

The  little  hamlet  of  the  Agency  was  in  a  complete  bustle ; 
the  blacksmith's  shed,  in  particular,  was  a  scene  of  prepara 
tion  ;  a  strapping  negro  was  shoeing  a  horse ;  two  half-breeds 
were  fabricating  iron  spoons  in  which  to  melt  lead  for  bullets. 
An  old  trapper,  in  leathern  hunting  frock  and  moccasons,  had 
placed  his  rifle  against  a  work-bench,  while  he  superintended 
the  operation,  and  gossiped  about  his  hunting  exploits; 
several  large  dogs  were  lounging  in  and  out  of  the  shop,  or 
sleeping  in  the  sunshine,  while  a  little  cur,  with  head  cocked 
on  one  side,  and  one  ear  erect,  was  watching,  with  that  curi 
osity  common  to  little  dogs,  the  process  of  shoeing  the  horse, 
as  if  studying  the  art,  or  waiting  for  his  turn  to  be  shod. 

We  found  the  Count  and  his  companion,  the  Virtuoso,  ready 
for  the  march.  As  they  intended  to  overtake  the  Osages,  and 
pass  some  time  in  hunting  the  buffalo  and  the  wild  horse,  they 
had  provided  themselves  accordingly;  having,  in  addition  to 
the  steeds  which  they  used  for  travelling,  others  of  prime 
quality,  which  were  to  be  led  when  on  the  march,  and  only  to 
be  mounted  for  the  chase. 

They  had,  moreover,  engaged  the  services  of  a  young  man 
named  Antoine,  a  half-breed  of  French  and  Osage  origin.  He 
was  to  be  a  kind  of  Jack-of-ull-work ;  to  cook,  to  hunt,  and  to 
take  care  oi  the  horses ;  but  he  had  a  vehement  propensity  to 
do  nothing,  being  one  of  the  worthless  brood  engendered  and 
brought  up  among  the  missions.  He  was,  moreover,  a  little 
spoiled  by  being  really  a  handsome  young  fellow,  an  Adonis  of 


A    TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  15 

the  frontier,  and  still  worse  by  fancying  himself  highly  con 
nected,  his  sister  being  concubine  to  an  opulent  white  trader ! 

For  our  own  parts,  the  Commissioner  and  myself  were  de 
sirous,  before  setting  out,  to  procure  another  attendant  well 
Versed  in  woodcraft,  who  might  serve  us  as  a  hunter ;  for  our 
little  Frenchman  would  have  his  hands  full  when  in  camp,  in 
cooking,  and  on  the  march,  in  taking  care  of  the  pack-horses. 
Such  an  one  presented  himself,  or  rather  was  recommended  to 
us,  in  Pierre  Beatte,  a  half-breed  of  French  and  Osage  paren 
tage.  We  were  assured  that  he  was  acquainted  with  all  parts 
of  the  country,  having  traversed  it  in  all  directions,  both 
in  hunting  and  war  parties ;  that  he  would  be  of  use  both  as 
guide  and  interpreter,  and  that  he  was  a  first-rate  hunter. 

I  confess  I  did  not  like  his  looks  when  he  was  first  presented 
to  me.  He  was  lounging  about,  in  an  old  hunting  frock  and 
metasses  or  leggings,  of  deer  skin,  soiled  and  greased,  and 
almost  japanned  by  constant  use.  He  was  apparently  about 
thirty-six  years  of  age,  square  and  strongly  built.  His  fea 
tures  were  not  bad,  being  shaped  not  unlike  those  of  Napo 
leon,  but  sharpened  up,  with  high  Indian  cheek-bones. 

Perhaps  the  dusky  greenish  hue  of  his  complexion,  aided  his 
resemblance  to  an  old  bronze  bust  I  had  seen  of  the  Emperor. 
He  had,  however,  a  sullen,  saturnine  expression,  set  off  by  a 
slouched  woollen  hat,  and  elf  locks  that  hung  about  his  ears. 

Such  was  the  appearance  of  the  man,  and  his  manners  were 
equally  unprepossessing.  He  was  cold  and  laconic ;  made  no 
promises  or  professions ;  stated  the  terms  he  required  for  the 
services  of  himself  and  his  horse,  which  we  thought  rather 
high,  but  showed  no  disposition  to  abate  them,  nor  any 
anxiety  to  secure  our  employ.  He  had  altogether  more  of 
the  red  than  the  white  man  in  his  composition ;  and,  as  I  had 
been  taught  to  look  upon  all  half-breeds  with  distrust,  as  an 
uncertain  and  faithless  race,  I  would  gladly  have  dispensed 
with  the  services  of  Pierre  Beatte.  We  had  no  time,  however, 
to  look  out  for  any  one  more  to  our  taste,  and  had  to  make  an 
arrangement  with  him  on  the  spot.  He  then  set  about  making 
his  preparations  for  the  journey,  promising  to  join  us  at  our 
evening's  encampment. 

One  thing  was  yet  wanting  to  fit  me  out  for  the  Prairies— a 
thoroughly  trustworthy  steed :  I  was  not  yet  mounted  to  my 
mind.  The  gray  I  had  bought^  though  strong  and  serviceable, 
was  rough.  At  the  last  moment  I  succeeded  in  getting  an 
excellent  animal;  a  dark  bay;  powerful,  active,  generous- 


16  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

spirited,  and  in  capital  condition.  I  mounted  him  with  exul 
tation,  and  transferred  the  silver  gray  to  Tonish,  who  was  in 
such  ecstasies  at  finding  himself  so  completely  en  Cavalier, 
that  I  feared  he  might  realize  the  ancient  and  well-known  pro 
verb  of  "  a  beggar  on  horseback." 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THE     DEPARTURE. 

THE  long-drawn  notes  of  a  bugle  at  length  gave  the  signal 
for  departure.  The  rangers  filed  off  in  a  straggling  line  of 
march  through  the  woods :  we  were  soon  on  horseback  and  fol 
lowing  on,  but  were  detained  by  the  irregularity  of  the  pack- 
horses.  They  were  unaccustomed  to  keep  the  line,  and  strag 
gled  from  side  to  side  among  the  thickets,  in  spite  of  all  the 
pesting  and  bedeviling  of  Tonish;  who,  mounted  on  his  gal 
lant  gray,  with  a  long  rifle  on  his  shoulder,  worried  after  them, 
bestowing  a  superabundance  of  dry  blows  and  curses. 

We  boon,  therefore,  lost  sight  of  our  escort,  but  managed  to 
keep  on  their  track,  thridding  lofty  forests,  and  entangled 
thickets,  and  passing  by  Indian  wigwams  and  negro  huts, 
until  toward  dusk  we  arrived  at  a  frontier  farm-house,  owned 
by  a  settler  of  the  name  of  Berryhill.  It  was  situated  on  a 
hill,  below  which  the  rangers  had  encamped  in  a  circular 
grove,  on  the  margin  of  a  stream.  The  master  of  the  house 
received  us  civilly,  but  could  offer  us  no  accommodation,  for 
sickness  prevailed  in  his  family.  He  appeared  himself  to  bo 
in  no  very  thriving  condition,  for  though  bulky  in  frame,  he 
had  a  sallow,  unhealthy  complexion,  and  a  whiffling  double 
voice,  shifting  abruptly  from  a  treble  to  a  thorough-bass. 

Finding  his  log  house  was  a  mere  hospital,  crowded  with 
invalids,  we  ordered  our  tent  to  be  pitched  in  the  form-yard. 

We  had  not  been  long  encamped,  when  our  recently  engaged 
attendant,  Beatte,  the  Osage  half-breed,  made  his  appearance. 
He  came  mounted  on  one  horse  and  leading  another,  which 
seemed  to  be  well  packed  with  supplies  for  the  expedition. 
Beatte  was  evidently  an  "old  soldier,"  as  to  the  art  of  taking 
care  of  himself  and  looking  out  for  emergencies.  Finding  that 
he  was  in  government  employ,  being  engaged  by  the  Commis- 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  17 

sioner,  he  had  drawn  rations  of  flour  and  bacon,  and  put  them 
up  so  as  to  be  weather-proof.  In  addition  to  the  horse  for  the 
road,  and  for  ordinary  service,  which  was  a  rough,  hardy 
animal,  he  had  another  for  hunting.  This  was  of  a  mixed 
breed  like  himself,  being  a  cross  of  the  domestic  stock  with  the 
wild  horse  of  the  prairies ;  and  a  noble  steed  it  was,  of  generous 
spirit,  fine  action,  and  admirable  bottom.  He  had  taken  care 
to  have  his  horses  well  shod  at  the  Agency.  He  came  prepared 
at  all  points  for  war  or  hunting :  his  rifle  on  his  shoulder,  his 
powder-horn  and  bullet-pouch  at  his  side,  his  hunting-knife 
stuck  in  his  belt,  and  coils  of  cordage  at  his  saddle  bow,  which 
we  were  told  were  lariats,  or  noosed  cords,  used  in  catching  the 
wild  horse. 

Thus  equipped  and  provided,  an  Indian  hunter  on  a  prairie  is 
like  a  cruiser  on  the  ocean,  perfectly  independent  of  the  world, 
and  competent  to  self-protection  and  self -maintenance.  He 
can  cast  himself  loose  from  every  one,  shape  his  own  course, 
and  take  care  of  his  own  fortunes.  I  thought  Beatte  seemed  to 
feel  his  independence,  and  to  consider  himself  superior  to  us 
all,  now  that  we  were  launching  into  the  wilderness.  He 
maintained  a  half  proud,  half  sullen  look,  and  great  taciturnity, 
and  his  first  care  was  to  unpack  his  horses  and  put  them  in 
safe  quarters  for  the  night.  His  whole  demeanor  was  in  per 
fect  contrast  to  our  vaporing,  chattering,  bustling  little  French 
man.  The  latter,  too,  seemed  jealous  of  this  new-comer.  He 
whispered  to  us  that  these  half-breeds  were  a  touchy,  capri 
cious  people,  little  to  be  depended  upon.  That  Beatte  had 
evidently  come  prepared  to  take  care  of  himself,  and  that,  at 
any  moment  in  the  course  of  our  tour,  he  would  be  liable  to 
take  some  sudden  disgust  or  affront,  and  abandon  us  at  a 
moment's  warning :  having  the  means  of  shifting  for  himself, 
and  being  perfectly  at  home  on  the  prairies. 


CHAPTEE  V. 

FRONTIER  SCENES. — A  LYCURGUS  OF  THE  BORDER. — LYNCH'S  LAW. 
— THE  DANGER  OF  FINDING  A   HORSE. — THE  YOUNG   OSAGE. 

ON  the  following  morning  (October  11),  we  were  on  the 
march  by  half-past  seven  o'clock,  and  rode  through  deep  rich 
bottoms  of  alluvial  soil,  overgrown  with  redundant  vegetation, 


18  A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

and  trees  of  an  enormous  size.  Our  route  lay  parallel  to  the 
west  bank  of  the  Arkansas,  on  the  borders  of  which  river,  near 
the  confluence  of  the  Red  Fork,  we  expected  to  overtake  the 
,jiain  body  of  rangers.  For  some  miles  the  country  was 
sprinkled  with  Creek  villages  and  farm-houses ;  the  inhabitants 
of  which  appeared  to  have  adopted,  with  considerable  facility, 
the  rudiments  of  civilization,  and  to  have  thriven  in  con 
sequence.  Their  farms  were  well  stocked,  and  their  houses 
had  a  look  of  comfort  and  abundance. 

We  met  with  numbers  of  them  returning  from  one  of  their 
grand  games  of  ball,  for  which  their  nation  is  celebrated. 
Some  were  on  foot,  some  on  horseback;  the  latter,  occasion 
ally,  with  gayly  dressed  females  behind  them.  They  are  a 
well-made  race,  muscular  and  closely  knit,  with  well-turned 
thighs  and  legs.  They  have  a  gypsy  fondness  for  brilliant 
colors  and  gay  decorations,  and  are  bright  and  fanciful  objects 
when  seen  at  a  distance  on  the  prairies.  One  had  a  scarlet 
handkerchief  bound  round  his  head,  surmounted  with  a  tuft  of 
black  feathers  like  a  cocktail.  Another  had  a  white  handker 
chief,  with  red  feathers;  while  a  third,  for  want  of  a  plume, 
had  stuck  in  his  turban  a  brilliant  bunch  of  sumach. 

On  the  verge  of  the  wilderness  we  paused  to  inquire  our 
way  at  a  log  house,  owned  by  a  white  settler  or  squatter,  a 
tall  raw-boned  old  fellow,  with  red  hair,  a  lank  lantern  visage, 
and  an  inveterate  habit  of  winking  with  one  eye,  as  if  every 
thing  he  said  was  of  knowing  import.  He  was  in  a  towering 
passion.  One  of  his  horses  was  missing ;  he  was  sure  it  had 
been  stolen  in  the  night  by  a  straggling  party  of  Osages 
encamped  in  a  neighboring  swamp ;  but  he  would  have  satis 
faction  !  He  would  make  an  example  of  the  villains.  He  had 
accordingly  caught  down  his  rifle  from  the  wall,  that  invariable 
enforcer  of  right  or  w^rong  upon  the  frontiers,  and,  having 
saddled  his  steed,  was  about  to  sally  forth  on  a  foray  into  the 
swamp;  while  a  brother  squatter,  with  rifle  in  hand,  stood 
ready  to  accompany  him. 

We  endeavored  to  calm  the  old  campaigner  of  the  prairies, 
by  suggesting  that  his  horse  might  have  strayed  into  the 
neighboring  woods;  but  he  had  the  frontier  propensity  to 
charge  everything  to  the  Indians,  and  nothing  could  dissuade 
him  from  carrying  fire  and  sword  into  the  swamp. 

After  riding  a  few  miles  farther  we  lost  the  trail  of  the  main 
body  of  rangers,  and  became  perplexed  by  a  variety  of  tracks 
made  by  the  Indians  and  settlers.  At  length  coming  to  a  log 


A   TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  19 

house,  inhabited  by  a  white  man,  the  very  last  on  the  frontier, 
we  found  that  we  had  wandered  from  our  true  course.  Taking 
us  back  for  some  distance,  he  again  brought  us  to  the  right 
trail ;  putting  ourselves  upon  which,  we  took  our  final  depar 
ture,  and  launched  into  the  broad  wilderness. 

The  trail  kept  on  like  a  straggling  footpath,  over  hill  and 
dale,  through  brush  and  brake,  and  tangled  thicket,  and  open 
prairie.  In  traversing  the  wilds  it  is  customary  for  a  party 
either  of  horse  or  foot  to  follow  each  other  in  single  file  like  the 
Indians ;  so  that  the  leaders  break  the  way  for  those  who  fol 
low,  and  lessen  their  labor  and  fatigue.  In  this  way,  also,  the 
number  of  a  party  is  concealed,  the  whole  leaving  but  one 
narrow  well-trampled  track  to  mark  their  course. 

We  had  not  long  regained  the  trail,  when,  on  emerging  from 
a  forest,  we  beheld  our  raw-boned,  hard-winking,  hard-riding 
knight-errant  of  the  frontier,  descending  the  slope  of  a  hill, 
followed  by  his  companion  in  arms.  As  he  drew  near  to  us, 
the  gauntness  of  his  figure  and  ruefulness  of  his  aspect 
reminded  me  of  the  description  of  the  hero  of  La  Mancha,  and 
he  was  equally  bent  on  affairs  of  doughty  enterprise,  being 
about  to  penetrate  the  thickets  of  the  perilous  swamp,  within 
which  the  enemy  lay  ensconced. 

While  we  were  holding  a  parley  with  him  on  the  slope  of  the 
hill,  we  descried  an  Osage  on  horseback  issuing  out  of  a  skirt 
of  wood  about  half  a  mile  off,  and  leading  a  horse  by  a  halter. 
The  latter  was  immediately  recognized  by  our  hard- winking 
friend  as  the  steed  of  which  he  was  in  quest.  As  the  Osage 
drew  near,  I  was  struck  with  his  appearance.  He  was  about 
nineteen  or  twenty  years  of  age,  but  well  grown,  with  the  fine 
Roman  countenance  common  to  his  tribe,  and  as  he  rode  with 
his  blanket  wrapped  round  his  loins,  his  naked  bust  would 
have  furnished  a  model  for  a  statuary.  He  was  mounted  on  a 
beautiful  piebald  horse,  a  mottled  white  and  brown,  of  the 
wild  breed  of  the  prairies,  decorated  with  a  broad  collar,  from 
which  hung  in  front  a  tuft  of  horsehair  dyed  of  a  bright 
scarlet. 

The  youth  rode  slowly  up  to  us  with  a  frank  open  air,  and 
signified  by  means  of  our  interpreter  Beatte,  that  the  horse  he 
was  leading  had  wandered  to  their  camp,  and  he  was  now  on 
his  way  to  conduct  him  back  to  his  owner. 

I  had  expected  to  witness  an  expression  of  gratitude  on  the 
part  of  our  hard-favored  cavalier,  but  to  my  surprise  the  old 
fellow  broke  out  into  a  furious  passion.  He  declared  that  the 


20  A    TO  Ull   OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

Indians  had  carried  off  his  horse  in  the  night,  with  the  inten 
tion  of  bringing  him  home  in  the  morning,  and  claiming  a 
reward  for  finding  him;  a  common  practice,  as  he  affirmed, 
among  the  Indians.  He  was,  therefore,  for  tying  the  young 
Indian  to  a  tree  and  giving  him  a  sound  lashing;  and  was  quite 
surprised  at  the  burst  of  indignation  which  this  novel  mode  of 
requiting  a  service  drew  from  us.  Such,  however,  is  too  often 
the  administration  of  law  on  the  frontier,  "  Lynch's  law,"  as  it 
is  technically  termed,  in  which  the  plaintiff  is  apt  to  be  witness, 
jury,  judge,  and  executioner,  and  the  defendant  to  be  convicted 
and  punished  on  mere  presumption;  and  in  this  way,  I  am 
convinced,  are  occasioned  many  of  those  heart-burnings  and 
resentments  among  the  Indians,  which  lead  to  retaliation,  and 
end  in  Indian  wars.  When  I  compared  the  open,  noble  coun 
tenance  and  frank  demeanor  of  the  young  Osage,  with  the  sinis 
ter  visage  and  high-handed  conduct  of  the  frontiersman,  I  felt 
little  doubt  on  whose  back  a  lash  would  be  most  meritoriously 
bestowed. 

Being  thus  obliged  to  content  himself  with  the  recovery  of 
his  horse,  without  the  pleasure  of  flogging  the  finder,  into  the 
bargain  the  old  Lycurgus,  or  rather  Draco,  of  the  frontier,  set 
off  growling  on  his  return  homeward;  followed  by  his  brother 
squatter. 

As  for  the  youthful  Osage,  we  were  all  prepossessed  in  his 
favor;  the  young  Count  especially,  with  the  sympathies 
proper  to  his  age  and  incident  to  his  character,  had  taken 
quite  a  fancy  to  him.  Nothing  would  suit  but  he  must  have 
the  young  Osage  as  a  companion  and  squire  in  his  expedition 
into  the  wilderness.  The  youth  was  easily  tempted,  and, 
with  the  prospect  of  a  safe  range  over  the  buffalo  prairies 
and  the  promise  of  a  new  blanket,  he  turned  his  bridle,  left 
the  swamp  and  the  encampment  of  his  friends  behind  him, 
and  set  off  to  follow  the  Count  in  his  wanderings  in  quest 
of  the  Osage  hunters. 

Such  is  the  glorious  independence  of  man  in  a  savage  state. 
This  youth,  with  his  rifle,  his  blanket,  and  his  horse,  was  ready 
at  a  moment's  warning  to  rove  the  world ;  he  carried  all  his 
worldly  effects  with  him,  and  in  the  absence  of  artificial  wants, 
possessed  the  great  secret  of  personal  freedom.  We  of  society 
are  slaves,  not  so  much  to  others  as  to  ourselves ;  our  supers 
fluities  are  the  chains  that  bind  us,  impeding  every  movement 
of  our  bodies  and  thwarting  every  impulse  of  our  souls.  Such, 
p-t  least,  were  my  speculations  at  the  time,  though  I  am  not 


A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  21 

sure  but  that  they  took  their  tone  from  the  enthusiasm  of  the 
young  Count,  who  seemed  more  enchanted  than  ever  with  the 
wild  chivalry  of  the  prairies,  and  talked  of  putting  on  the  In 
dian  dress  arid  adopting  the  Indian  habits  during  the  time  he 
hoped  to  pass  with  the  Osages. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

TRAIL  OF  THE  OSAGE  HUNTERS. — DEPARTURE  OF  THE  COUNT  AND 
HIS  PARTY. — A  DESERTED  WAR  CAMP. — A  VAGRANT  DOG  — THE 
ENCAMPMENT. 

IN  the  course  of  the  morning  the^trail  we  were  pursuing  was 
crossed  by  another,  which  struck  off  through  the  forest  to  the 
west  in  a  direct  course  for  the  Arkansas  River.  Beatte,  our 
half-breed,  after  considering  it  for  a  moment,  pronounced  it  the 
trail  of  the  Osage  hunters ;  and  that  it  must  lead  to  the  place 
where  they  had  forded  the  river  on  their  way  to  the  hunting 
grounds. 

Here  then  the  young  Count  and  his  companion  came  to  a  halt 
and  prepared  to  take  leave  of  us.  The  most  experienced  fron 
tiersmen  in  the  troop  remonstrated  on  the  hazard  of  the  under 
taking.  They  were  about  to  throw  themselves  loose  in  the 
wilderness,  with  no  other  guides,  guards,  or  attendants,  than 
a  young  ignorant  half-breed,  and  a  still  younger  Indian.  They 
were  embarrassed  by  a  pack-horse  and  two  led  horses,  with 
which  they  would  have  to  make  their  way  through  matted 
forests,  and  across  rivers  and  morasses.  The  Osages  and  Paw 
nees  were  at  war,  and  they  might  fall  in  with  some  warrior 
party  of  the  latter,  who  are  ferocious  foes ;  besides,  their  small 
number,  and  their  valuable  horses,  would  form  a  great  temp 
tation  to  some  of  the  straggling  bands  of  Osages  loitering 
about  the  frontier,  who  might  rob  them  of  their  horses  in 
the  night,  and  leave  them  destitute  and  on  foot  in  the  midst 
of  the  prairies. 

Nothing,  however,  could  restrain  the  romantic  ardor  of  the 
Count  for  a  campaign  of  buffalo  hunting  with  the  Osages,  and 
he  had  a  game  spirit  that  seemed  always  stimulated  by  the  idea 
of  danger.  His  travelling  companion,  of  discreeter  age  and 
calmer  temperament,  was  convinced  of  the  rashness  of  the 
enterprise ;  but  he  could  not  control  the  impetuous  zeal  of  his 


22  A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

youthful  friend,  and  he  was  too  loyal  to  leave  him  to  pursue  his 
hazardous  scheme  alone.  To  our  great  regret,  therefore,  we 
saw  them  abandon  the  protection  of  our  escort,  and  strike  off 
on  their  hap-hazard  expedition.  The  old  hunters  of  our  party 
shook  their  heads,  and  our  half-breed,  Beatte,  predicted  all 
kinds  of  trouble  to  them ;  my  only  hope  was,  that  they  would 
soon  meet  with  perplexities  enough  to  cool  the  impetuosity  of 
the  young  Count,  and  induce  him  to  rejoin  us.  With  this  idea, 
we  travelled  slowly,  and  made  a  considerable  halt  at  noon. 
After  resuming  our  march,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Arkansas. 
It  presented  a  broad  and  rapid  stream,  bordered  by  a  beach  of 
fine  sand,  overgrown  with  willows  and  cottonwood-trees. 
Beyond  the  river,  the  eye  wandered  over  a  beautiful  champaign 
country,  of  flowery  plains  and  sloping  uplands,  diversified  by 
groves  and  clumps  of  trees^  and  long  screens  of  woodland ;  the 
whole  wearing  the  aspect  of  complete,  and  even  ornamental 
cultivation,  instead  of  native  wildness.  Not  far  from  the  river, 
on  an  open  eminence,  we  passed  through  the  recently  deserted 
camping  place  of  an  Osage  war  party.  The  frames  of  the  tents 
or  wigwams  remained,  consisting  of  poles  bent  into  an  arch, 
with  each  end  stuck  into  the  ground:  these  are  intertwined 
with  twigs  and  branches,  and  covered  with  bark  and  skins. 
Those  experienced  in  Indian  lore,  can  ascertain  the  tribe,  and 
whether  on  a  hunting  or  a  warlike  expedition,  by  the  shape 
and  disposition  of  the  wigwams.  Beatte  pointed  out  to  us,  in 
the  present  skeleton  camp,  the  wigwam  in  which  the  chiefs 
had  held  their  consultations  around  the  council-fire:  and  an 
open  area,  well  trampled  down,  on  which  the  grand  war-dance 
had  been  performed. 

Pursuing  our  journey,  as  we  were  passing  through  a  forest, 
we  were  met  by  a  forlorn,  half -famished  dog,  who  came  ram 
bling  along  the  trail,  with  inflamed  eyes,  and  bewildered  look. 
Though  nearly  trampled  upon  by  the  foremost  rangers,  he 
took  notice  of  no  one,  but  rambled  heedlessly  among  the 
horses.  The  cry  of  "mad  dog"  was  immediately  raised,  and 
one  of  the  rangers  levelled  his  rifle,  but  was  stayed  by  the 
ever-ready  humanity  of  the  Commissioner.  "He  is  blind!" 
said  he.  "It  is  the  dog  of  some  poor  Indian,  following  his 
master  by  the  scent.  It  would  be  a  shame  to  kill  so  faithful 
an  animal."  The  ranger  shouldered  his  rifle,  the  dog  blun 
dered  blindly  through  the  cavalcade  unhurt,  and  keeping 
his  nose  to  the  ground,  continued  his  course  along  the  trail, 
affording  a  rare  instance  of  a  dog  surviving  a  bad  name. 


A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  .       23 

About  three  o'clock,  we  came  to  a  recent  camping-place  of 
the  company  of  rangers :  the  brands  of  one  of  their  fires  were 
still  smoking ;  so  that,  according  to  the  opinion  of  Beatte,  they 
could  not  have  passed  on  above  a  day  previously.  As  there 
was  a  fine  stream  of  water  close  by,  and  plenty  of  pea- vines 
for  the  horses,  we  encamped  here  for  the  night. 

We  had  not  been  here  long,  when  we  heard  a  halloo  from  a 
distance,  and  beheld  the  young  Count  and  his  party  advancing 
through  the  forest.  We  welcomed  them  to  the  camp  with 
heartfelt  satisfaction;  for  their  departure  upon  so  hazardous 
an  expedition  had  caused  us  great  uneasiness.  A  short  ex 
periment  had  convinced  them  of  the  toil  and  difficulty  of  in 
experienced  travellers  like  themselves  making  their  way 
through  the  wilderness  with  such  a  train  of  horses,  and  such 
slender  attendance.  Fortunately,  they  determined  to  rejoin 
us  before  night-fall ;  one  night's  camping  out  might  have  cost 
them  their  horses.  The  Count  had  prevailed  upon  his  protege 
and  esquire,  the  young  Osage,  to  continue  with  him,  and  still 
calculated  upon  achieving  great  exploits,  with  his  assistance, 
on  the  buffalo  prairies. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

NEWS  OF  THE  RANGERS. — THE  COUNT  AND  HIS  INDIAN  SQUIRE. — 
HALT  IN  THE  WOODS. — WOODLAND  SCENE. — OSAGE  VILLAGE. — 
OSAGE  VISITORS  AT  OUR  EVENING  CAMP. 

IN  the  morning  early  (October  12th),  the  two  Creeks  who 
had  been  sent  express  by  the  commander  of  Fort  Gibson,  to 
stop  the  company  of  rangers,  arrived  at  our  encampment  on 
their  return.  They  had  left  the  company  encamped  about 
fifty  miles  distant,,  in  a  fine  place  on  the  Arkansas,  abound 
ing  in  game,  where  they  intended  to  await  our  arrival.  This 
news  spread  animation  throughout  our  party,  and  we  set  out 
on  our  march  at  sunrise,  with  renewed  spirit. 

In  mounting  our  steeds,  the  young  Osage  attempted  to 
throw  a  blanket  upon  his  wild  horse.  The  fine,  eensibio  ani 
mal  took  fright,  reared  and  recoiled.  The  attitudes  of  the 
wild  horse  and  the  almost  naked  savage,  would  have  formed 
studies  for  a  painter  or  a  statuary. 

I  often  pleased  myself  in  the  course  of   our  march,  with 


24  A   TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

noticing  the  appearance  of  the  young  Count  and  his  newly 
enlisted  follower,  as  they  rode  before  me.  Never  was  preux 
chevalier  better  suited  with  an  esquire.  The  Count  was  well 
mounted,  and,  as  I  have  before  observed,  was  a  bold  and 
graceful  rider.  He  was  fond,  too,  of  caracoling  his  horse, 
and  dashing  about  in  the  buoyancy  of  youthful  spirits.  His 
dress  was  a  gay  Indian  hunting  frock  of  dressed  deer  skin,  set 
ting  Avell  to  the  shape,  dyed  of  a  beautiful  purple,  and  fanci 
fully  embroidered  with  silks  of  various  colors;  as  if  it  had 
been  the  work  of  some  Indian  beauty,  to  decorate  a  favorite 
chief.  With  this  he  wore  leathern  pantaloons  and  moccasons, 
a  foraging  cap,  and  a  double-barrelled  gun  slung  by  a  bando 
leer  athwart  his  back:  so  that  he  was  quite  a  picturesque 
figure  as  he  managed  gracefully  his  spirited  steed. 

The  young  Osage  would  ride  close  behind  him  on  his  wild  and 
beautifully  mottled  horse,  which  was  decorated  with  crimson 
tufts  of  hair.  He  rode  with  his  finely  shaped  head  and  bust 
naked ;  his  blanket  being  girt  round  his  waist.  He  carried  his 
rifle  in  c  tie  hand,  and  managed  his  horse  with  the  other,  and 
seemed  ready  to  dash  off  at  a  moment's  warning,  with  his 
youthful  leader,  on  any  madcap  foray  or  scamper.  The  Count, 
with  the  sanguine  anticipations  of  youth,  promised  himself 
many  hardy  adventures  and  exploits  in  company  with  his 
youthful  "brave,"  when  we  should  get  among  the  buffaloes, 
in  the  Pawnee  hunting  grounds. 

After  riding  some  distance,  we  crossed  a  narrow,  deep 
stream,  upon  a  solid  bridge,  the  remains  of  an  old  beaver  dam ; 
the  industrious  community  which  had  constructed  it  had  all 
been  destroyed.  Above  us,  a  streaming  flight  of  wild  geese, 
high  in  the  air,  and  making  a  vociferous  noise,  gave  note  of 
the  waning  year. 

About  half  past  ten  o'clock  we  made  a  halt  in  a  forest,  where 
there  was  abundance  of  the  pea-vine.  Here  we  turned  the 
horses  loose  to  gaze.  A  fire  was  made,  water  procured  from 
an  adjacent  spring,  and  in  a  short  time  our  little  Frenchman, 
Tonish,  had  a  pot  of  coffee  prepared  for  our  refreshment. 
While  partaking  of  it,  we  were  joined  by  an  old  Osage,  one 
of  a  small  hunting  party  who  had  recently  passed  this  way. 
He  was  in  search  of  his  horse,  which  had  wandered  away,  or 
been  stolen.  Our  half-breed,  Beatte,  made  a  wry  face  on  hear 
ing  of  Osage  hunters  in  this  direction.  "Until  we  pass  those 
hunters,"  said  he,  "we  shall  see  no  buffaloes.  They  frighten 
away  every  thing,  like  a  prairie  on  fire. " 


A   TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  25 

The  morning  repast  being  over,  the  party  amused  them 
selves  in  various  ways.  Some  shot  with  their  rifles  at  a  mark, 
others  lay  asleep  half  buried  in  the  deep  bed  of  foliage,  with 
their  heads  resting  on  their  saddles ;  others  gossiped  round  the 
fire  at  the  foot  of  a  tree,  which  sent  up  wreaths  of  blue  smoke 
among  the  branches.  The  horses  banqueted  luxuriously  011 
the  pea-vines,  and  some  lay  down  and  rolled  amongst  them. 

We  were  overshadowed  by  lofty  trees,  with  straight,  smooth 
trunks,  like  stately  columns ;  and  as  the  glancing  rays  of  the 
sun  shone  through  the  transparent  leaves,  tinted  with  the 
many-colored  hues  of  autumn,  I  was  reminded  of  the  effect 
of  sunshine  among  the  stained  windows  and  clustering  col 
umns  of  a  Gothic  cathedral.  Indeed  there  is  a  grandeur  and 
solemnity  in  our  spacious  forests  of  the  West,  that  awaken  in 
me  the  same  feeling  I  have  experienced  in  those  vast  and 
venerable  piles,  and  the  sound  of  the  wind  sweeping  through 
them,  supplies  occasionally  the  deep  breathings  of  the  organ. 

About  noon  the  bugle  sounded  to  horse,  and  we  were  again 
on  the  march,  hoping  to  arrive  at  the  encampment  of  the 
rangers  before  night ;  as  the  old  Osage  had  assured  us  it  was 
not  above  ten  or  twelve  miles  distant.  In  our  course  through 
a  forest,  we  passed  by  a  lonely  pool,  covered  with  the  most 
magnificent  water-lilies  I  had  ever  beheld ;  among  which  swam 
several  wood-ducks,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  water-fowl, 
remarkable  for  the  gracefulness  and  brilliancy  of  its  plumage. 

After  proceeding  some  distance  farther,  we  came  down  upon 
the  banks  of  the  Arkansas,  at  a  place  where  tracks  of  numer 
ous  horses,  all  entering  the  water,  showed  where  a  party  of 
Osage  hunters  had  recently  crossed  the  river  on  their  way  to 
the  buffalo  range.  After  letting  our  horses  drink  in  the  river, 
we  continued  along  its  bank  for  a  space,  and  then  across 
prairies,  where  we  saw  a  distant  smoke,  which  we  hoped  might 
proceed  from  the  encampment  of  the  rangers.  Following 
what  we  supposed  to  be  their  trail,  we  came  to  a  meadow  in 
which  were  a  number  of  horses  grazing :  they  were  not,  how 
ever,  the  horses  of  the  troop.  A  little  farther  on,  we  reached  a 
straggling  Osage  village,  on  the  banks  of  the  Arkansas.  Our 
arrival  created  quite  a  sensation.  A  number  of  old  men  came 
forward  and  shook  hands  with  us  all  severally;  while  the 
women  and  children  huddled  together  in  groups,  staring  at  us 
wildly,  chattering  and  laughing  among  themselves.  We 
found  that  all  the  young  men  of  the  village  had  departed  on  a 
hunting  expedition,  leaving  the  women  and  children  and  old 


26  A    TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

men  behind.  Here  the  Commissioner  made  a  speech  from  on 
horseback ;  informing  his  hearers  of  the  purport  of  his  mission, 
to  promote  a  general  peace  among  the  tribes  of  the  West,  and 
urging  them  to  lay  aside  all  warlike  and  bloodthirsty  notions, 
and  not  to  make  any  wanton  attacks  upon  the  Pawnees. 
This  speech  being  interpreted  by  Beatte,  seemed  to  have  a 
most  pacifying  effect  upon  the  multitude,  who  promised  faith 
fully  that,  as  far  as  in  them  lay,  the  peace  should  not  be 
disturbed;  and  indeed  their  age  and  sex  gave  some  reason  to 
trust  that  they  would  keep  their  word. 

Still  hoping  to  reach  the  camp  of  the  rangers  before  night 
fall,  we  pushed  on  until  twilight,  when  we  were  obliged  to 
halt  011  the  borders  of  a  ravine.  The  rangers  bivouacked 
under  trees,  at  the  bottom  of  the  dell,  while  we  pitched 
our  tent  on  a  rocky  knoll  near  a  running  stream.  The  night 
came  on  dark-  and  overcast,  with  flying  clouds,  and  much 
appearance  of  rain.  The  fires  of  the  rangers  burnt  brightly 
in  the  dell,  and  threw  strong  masses  of  light  upon  the  robber- 
looking  groups  that  were  cooking,  eating,  and  drinking  around 
them.  To  add  to  the  wildness  of  the  scene,  several  Osage 
Indians,  visitors  from  the  village  we  had  passed,  were  mingled 
among  the  men.  Three  of  them  came  and  seated  themselves 
by  our  fire.  They  watched  every  thing  that  was  going  on 
around  them  in  silence,  and  looked  like  figures  of  monumental 
bronze.  We  gave  them  food,  and,  what  they  most  relished, 
coffee;  for  the  Indians  partake  in  the  universal  fondness  for 
this  beverage,  which  pervades  the  West.  When  they  had 
made  their  supper,  they  stretched  themselves,  side  by  side, 
before  the  fire,  and  began  a  low  nasal  chant,  drumming  with 
their  hands  upon  their  breasts,  by  way  of  accompaniment. 
Their  chant  seemed  to  consist  of  regular  staves,  every  one  ter 
minating,  not  in  a  melodious  cadence,  but  in  the  abrupt  in 
terjection  huh !  uttered  almost  like  a  hiccup.  This  chant,  we 
were  told  by  our  interpreter,  Beatte,  related  to  ourselves,  our 
appearance,  our  treatment  of  them,  and  all  that  they  knew  of 
our  plans.  In  one  part  they  spoke  of  the  young  Count,  whose 
animated  character  and  eagerness  for  Indian  enterprise  had 
struck  their  fancy,  and  they  indulged  in  some  waggery  about 
him  and  the  young  Indian  beauties,  that  produced  great  mer 
riment  among  our  half-breeds. 

This  mode  of  improvising  is  common  throughout  the  savage 
tribes;  and  in  this  way,  with  a  few  simple  inflections  of  the 
voice,  they  chant  all  their  exploits  in  war  and  hunting,  and 


A    TOUR   OF  THE  PRAI1UKS.  07 

occasionally  indulge  in  a  vein  of  comic  humor  and  dry  satire, 
to  which  the  Indians  appear  to  me  much  more  prone  than  is 
generally  imagined. 

In  fact,  the  Indians  that  I  have  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
in  real  life  are  quite  different  from  those  described  in  poetry. 
They  are  by  no  means  the  stoics  that  they  are  represented; 
taciturn,  unbending,  without  a  tear  or  a  smile.  Taciturn  they 
arc,  it  is  true,  when  in  company  Avith  white  men,  whose  good 
will  they  distrust,  and  whose  language  they  do  not  understand ; 
but  the  white  man  is  equally  taciturn  under  like  circumstances. 
When  the  Indians  are  among  themselves,  however,  there 
cannot  be  greater  gossips.  Half  their  time  is  taken  up  in 
talking  over  their  adventures  in  war  and  hunting,  and  in  tell 
ing  whimsical  stories.  They  are  great  mimics  and  buffoons, 
also,  and  entertain  themselves  excessively  at  the  expense  of 
the  whites  with  whom  they  have  associated,  and  who  have 
supposed  them  impressed  with  profound  respect  for  their 
grandeur  and  dignity.  They  are  curious  observers,  noting 
every  thing  in  silence,  but  with  a  keen  and  watchful  eye; 
occasionally  exchanging  a  glance  or  a  grunt  with  each  other, 
when  any  thing  particularly  strikes  them:  but  reserving  all 
comments  until  they  are  alone.  Then  it  is  that  they  give  full 
scope  to  criticism,  satire,  mimicry,  and  mirth. 

In  the  course  of  my  journey  along  the  frontier,  I  have  had 
repeated  opportunities  of  noticing  their  excitability  and  boister 
ous  merriment  at  their  games ;  and  have  occasionally  noticed 
a  group  of  Osages  sitting  round  a  fire  until  a  late  hour  of  the 
night,  engaged  in  the  most  animated  and  lively  conversation ; 
and  at  times  making  the  woods  resound  with  peals  of  laughter. 
As  to  tears,  they  have  them  in  abundance,  both  real  and 
affected ;  at  times  they  make  a  merit  of  them.  No  one  weeps 
more  bitterly  or  profusely  at  the  death  of  a  relative  or  friend : 
and  they  have  stated  times  when  they  repair  to  howl  and 
lament  at  their  graves.  I  have  heard  doleful  wailings  at  day 
break,  in  the  neighboring  Indian  villages,  made  by  some  of  the 
inhabitants,  who  go  out  at  that  hour  into  "the  fields,  to  mourn 
and  weep  for  the  dead :  at  such  times,  I  am  told,  the  tears  will 
stream  down  their  cheeks  in  torrents. 

As  far  as  I  can  judge,  the  Indian  of  poetical  fiction  is  like  the 
shepherd  of  pastoral  romance,  a  mere  personification  of  imagi 
nary  attributes. 

The  nasal  chant  of  our  Osage  guests  gradually  died  away ; 
they  covered  their  heads  with  their  blankets  and  fell  fast 


28  -4    TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIKS. 

asleep,  and  in  a  little  while  all  was  silent,  except  the  pattering 
of  scattered  rain- drops  upon  our  tent. 

In  the  morning  our  Indian  visitors  breakfasted  with  us,  but 
the  young  Osage  who  was  to  act  as  esquire  to  the  Count  in  his 
knight-errantry  on  the  prairies,  was  nowhere  to  be  found. 
His  wild  horse,  too,  was  missing,  and,  after  many  conjectures, 
we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  he  had  taken  "Indian  leave"  oi 
us  in  the  night.  We  afterwards  ascertained  that  he  had  been 
persuaded  so  to  do  by  the  Osages  we  had  recently  met  with ; 
who  had  represented  to  him  the  perils  that  would  attend  him 
in  an  expedition  to  the  Pawnee  hunting  grounds,  where  he 
might  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  implacable  enemies  of  his 
tribe;  and,  what  was  scarcely  less  to  be  apprehended,  the 
annoyances  to  which  he  would  be  subjected  from  the  capri 
cious  and  overbearing  conduct  of  the  white  men;  who,  as  I 
have  witnessed  in  my  own  short  experience,  are  prone  to  treat 
the  poor  Indians  as  little  better  than  brute  animals.  Indeed, 
he  had  had  a  specimen  of  it  himself  in  the  narrow  escape  he 
made  from  the  infliction  of  "  Lynch's  law,"  by  the  hard- 
winking  worthy  of  the  frontier,  for  the  flagitious  crime  of 
finding  a  stray  horse. 

The  disappearance  of  the  youth  was  generally  regretted  by 
our  party,  for  we  had  all  taken  a  great  fancy  to  him  from  his 
handsome,  frank,  and  manly  appearance,  and  the  easy  graco 
of  his  deportment.  He  was  indeed  a  native-born  gentleman. 
By  none,  however,  was  he  so  much  lamented  as  by  the  young 
Count,  who  thus  suddenly  found  himself  deprived  of  his 
esquire.  I  regretted  the  departure  of  the  Osage  for  his  own 
sake,  for  we  should  have  cherished  him  throughout  the  expe 
dition,  and  I  am  convinced,  from  the  munificent  spirit  of  his 
patron,  he  would  have  returned  to  his  tribe  laden  with  wealth 
of  beads  and  trinkets  and  Indian  blankets. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THE    HONEY    CAMP. 

THE  weather,  which  had  been  rainy  in  the  night,  having 
held  up,  we  resumed  our  march  at  seven  o'clock  in  the  morn 
ing,  in  confident  hope  of  soon  arriving  at  the  encampment  of 
the  rangers.  We  had  not  ridden  above  three  or  four  miles 


A   TO  UP,   OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  29 

when  we  came  to  a  large  tree  which  had  recently  been  felled 
by  an  axe,  for  the  wild  honey  contained  in  the  hollow  of  its 
trunk,  several  broken  flakes  of  which  still  remained.  We 
now  felt  sure  that  the  camp  could  not  be  far  distant.  About  a 
couple  of  miles  further  some  of  the  rangers  set  up  a  shout,  and 
pointed  to  a  number  of  horses  grazing  in  a  woody  bottom.  A 
few  paces  brought  us  to  the  brow  of  an  elevated  ridge,  whence 
we  looked  down  upon  the  encampment.  It  was  a  wild  bandit, 
or  Robin  Hood,  scene.  In  a  beautiful  open  forest,  traversed  by 
a  running  stream,  were  booths  of  bark  and  branches,  and  tents 
of  blankets,  temporary  shelters  from  the  recent  rain,  for  the 
rangers  commonly  bivouac  in  the  open  air.  There  were  groups 
of  rangers  in  every  kind  of  uncouth  garb.  Some  were  cooking 
at  large  fires  made  at  the  feet  of  trees ;  some  were  stretching 
and  dressing  deer  skins ;  some  were  shooting  at  a  mark,  and 
some  lying  about  on  the  grass.  Venison  jerked,  and  hung  on 
frames,  was  drying  over  the  embers  in  one  place ;  in  another 
lay  carcasses  recently  brought  in  by  the  hunters.  Stacks  of 
rifles  were  leaning  against  the  trunks  of  the  trees,  and  saddles, 
bridles,  and  powder-horns  hanging  above  them,  while  the  horses 
were  grazing  here  and  there  among  the  thickets. 

Our  arrival  was  greeted  with  acclamation.  The  rangers 
crowded  about  their  comrades  to  inquire  the  news  from  the 
fort ;  for  our  own  part,  we  were  received  in  frank  simple  hun 
ter's  style  by  Captain  Bean,  the  commander  of  the  company ; 
a  man  about  forty  years  of  age,  vigorous  and  active.  His  life 
had  been  chiefly  passed  on  the  frontier,  occasionally  in  Indian 
warfare,  so  that  he  was  a  thorough  woodsman,  and  a  first-rate 
hunter.  He  was  equipped  in  character;  in  leathern  hunting 
shirt  and  leggings,  and  a  leathern  foraging  cap. 

While  we  were  conversing  with  the  Captain,  a  veteran 
huntsman  approached,  whose  whole  appearance  struck  me. 
He  was  of  the  middle  size,  but  tough  and  weather-proved ;  a 
head  partly  bald  and  garnished  with  loose  iron-gray  locks,  and 
a  fine  black  eye,  beaming  with  youthful  spirit.  His  dress  was 
similar  to  that  of  the  Captain,  a  rifle  shirt  and  leggings  of 
dressed  deer  skin,  that  had  evidently  seen  service ;  a  powder- 
horn  was  slung  by  his  side,  a  hunting-knife  stuck  in  his  belt, 
and  in  his  hand  was  an  ancient  and  trusty  rifle,  doubtless  as 
dear  to  him  as  a  bosom  friend.  He  asked  permission  to  go 
hunting,  which  was  readily  granted.  "That's  old  Ryan,"  said 
the  Captain,  when  he  had  gone ;  "there's  not  a  better  hunter  in 
the  camp;  he's  sure  to  bring  in  game." 


30  A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

In  a  little  while  our  pack-horses  were  unloaded  and  turned 
loose  to  revel  among  the  pea-vines.  Our  tent  was  pitched ;  our 
fire  made ;  the  half  of  a  deer  had  been  sent  to  us  from  the  Cap 
tain's  lodge ;  Beatte  brought  in  a  couple  of  wild  turkeys ;  the 
spits  were  laden,  and  the  camp-kettle  crammed  with  meat ;  and 
to  crown  our  luxuries,  a  basin  filled  with  great  flakes  of  deli 
cious  honey,  the  spoils  of  a  plundered  bee-tree,  was  given  us  by 
one  of  the  rangers. 

Our  little  Frenchman,  Tonish,  was  in  an  ecstasy,  and  tuck 
ing  up  his  sleeves  to  the  elbows,  set  to  work  to  make  a  display 
of  his  culinary  skill,  on  which  he  prided  himself  almost  as 
much  as  upon  his  hunting,  his  riding,  and  his  warlike  prowess. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

A  BEE  HUNT. 

THE  beautiful  forest  in  which  we  were  encamped  abounded  in 
bee-trees ;  that  is  to  say,  trees  in  the  decayed  trunks  of  which 
wild  bees  had  established  their  hives.  It  is  surprising  in  what 
countless  swarms  the  bees  have  overspread  the  Far  West,  within 
but  a  moderate  number  of  years.  The  Indians  consider  them  the 
harbinger  of  the  white  man,  as  the  buffalo  is  of  the  red  man ; 
and  say  that,  in  proportion  as  the  bee  advances,  the  Indian 
and  buffalo  retire.  We  are  always  accustomed  to  associate 
the  hum  of  the  bee-hive  with  the  farmhouse  and  flower-garden, 
and  to  consider  those  industrious  little  animals  as  connected 
with  the  busy  haunts  of  man,  and  I  am  told  that  the  wild  bee 
is  seldom  to  be  met  with  at  any  great  distance  from  the  fron 
tier.  They  have  been  the  heralds  of  civilization,  steadfastly 
preceding  it  as  it  advanced  from  the  Atlantic  borders,  and 
some  of  the  ancient  settlers  of  the  West  pretend  to  give  the 
very  year  when  the  honey-bee  first  crossed  the  Mississippi. 
The  Indians  with  surprise  found  the  mouldering  trees  of  their 
forests  suddenly  teeming  with  ambrosial  sweets,  and  nothing, 
I  am  told,  can  exceed  the  greedy  relish  with  which  they  ban 
quet  for  the  first  time  upon  this  unbought  luxury  of  the  wilder 
ness. 

At  present  the  honey-bee  swarms  in  myriads,  in  the  noble 
groves  and  forests  which  skirt  and  intersect  the  prairies,  and 
extend  along  the  alluvial  bottoms  of  the  rivers.  It  seems  to 


A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  31 

me  as  if  these  beautiful  regions  answer  literally  to  the  descrip 
tion  of  the  land  of  promise,  ua  land  flowing  with  milk  and 
honey ;"  for  the  rich  pasturage  of  the  prairies  is  calculated  to 
sustain  herds  of  cattle  as  countless  as  the  sands  upon  the  sea 
shore,  while  the  flowers  with  which  they  are  enamelled  render 
them  a  very  paradise  for  the  nectar-seeking  bee. 

We  had  not  been  long  in  the  camp  when  a  party  set  out  in 
quest  of  a  bee-tree ;  and,  being  curious  to  witness  the  sport,  I 
gladly  accepted  an  invitation  to  accompany  them.  The  party 
was  headed  by  a  veteran  bee-hunter,  a  tall  lank  fellow  in 
homespun  garb  that  hung  loosely  about  his  limbs,  and  a  straw 
hat  shaped  not  unlike  a  bee-hive ;  a  comrade,  equally  uncouth 
in  garb,  and  without  a  hat,  straddled  along  at  his  heels,  with  a 
long  rifle  on  his  shoulder.  To  these  succeeded  half  a  dozen 
others,  some  with  axes  and  some  with  rifles,  for  no  one  stirs 
far  from  the  camp  without  his  firearms,  so  as  to  be  ready 
either  for  wild  deer  or  wild  Indian. 

After  proceeding  some  distance  we  came  to  an  open  glade 
on  the  skirts  of  the  forest.  Here  our  leader  halted,  and  then 
advanced  quietly  to  a  low  bush,  on  the  top  of  which  I  per 
ceived  a  piece  of  honey-comb.  This  I  found  was  the  bait  or 
lure  for  the  wild  bees.  Several  were  humming  about  it,  and 
diving  into  its  cells.  When  they  had  laden  themselves  with 
honey,  they  would  rise  into  the  air,  and  dart  off  in  a  straight 
line,  almost  with  the  velocity  of  a  bullet.  The  hunters 
watched  attentively  the  course  they  took,  and  then  set  off  in 
the  same  direction,  stumbling  along  over  twisted  roots  and 
fallen  trees,  with  their  eyes  turned  up  to  the  sky.  In  this  way 
they  traced  the  honey-laden  bees  to  their  hive,  in  the  hollow 
trunk  of  a  blasted  oak,  where,  after  buzzing  about  for  a  mo 
ment,  they  entered  a  hole  about  sixty  feet  from  the  ground. 

Two  of  the  bee-hunters  now  plied  their  axes  vigorously  at 
the  foot  of  the  tree  to  level  it  with  the  ground.  The  mere 
spectators  and  amateurs,  in  the  meantime,  drew  off  to  a 
cautious  distance,  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  the  falling  of  the 
tree  and  the  vengeance  of  its  inmates.  The  jarring  blows  of 
the  axe  seemed  to  have  no  effect  in  alarming  or  disturbing  this 
most  industrious  community.  They  continued  to  ply  at  their 
usual  occupations,  some  arriving  full  freighted  into  port, 
others  sallying  forth  on  new  expeditions,  like  so  many  mer 
chantmen  in  a  money-making  metropolis,  little  suspicious  of 
impending  bankruptcy  and  downfall.  Even  a  loud  crack 
which  announced  the  disrupture  of  the  trunk,  failed  to  divert 


32  A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

their  attention  from  the  intense  pursuit  of  gain;  at  length 
down  came  the  tree  with  a  tremendous  crash,  bursting  open 
from  end  to  end,  and  displaying  all  the  hoarded  treasures  of 
the  commonwealth. 

One  of  the  hunters  immediately  ran  up  with  a  wisp  of 
lighted  hay  as  a  defence  against  the  bees.  The  latter,  how 
ever,  made  no  attack  and  sought  no  revenge;  they  seemed 
stupefied  by  the  catastrophe  and  unsuspicious  of  its  cause,  and 
remained  crawling  and  buzzing  about  the  ruins  without  offer 
ing  us  any  molestation.  Every  one  of  the  party  now  fell  to, 
with  spoon  and  hunting-knife,  to  scoop  out  the  flakes  of 
honey-comb  with  w^hich  the  hollow  trunk  was  stored.  Some 
of  them  were  of  old  date  and  a  deep  brown  color,  others  were 
beautifully  white,  and  the  honey  in  their  cells  was  almost 
limpid.  Such  of  the  combs  as  were  entire  were  placed  in 
camp  kettles  to  be  conveyed  to  the  encampment ;  those  which 
had  been  shivered  in  the  fall  were  devoured  upon  the  spot. 
Every  stark  bee-hunter  was  to  be  seen  with  a  rich  morsel  in 
his  hand,  dripping  about  his  fingers,  and  disappearing  as 
rapidly  as  a  cream  tart  before  the  holiday  appetite  of  a  school 
boy. 

Nor  was  it  the  bee-hunters  alone  that  profited  by  the  down 
fall  of  this  industrious  community ;  as  if  the  bees  would  carry 
through  the  similitude  of  their  habits  with  those  of  laborious 
and  gainful  man,  I  beheld  numbers  from  rival  hives,  arriving 
on  eager  wing,  to  enrich  themselves  with  the  ruins  of  their 
neighbors.  These  busied  themselves  as  eagerly  and  cheerfully 
as  so  many  wreckers  on  an  Indiaman  that  has  been  driven  on 
shore ;  plunging  into  the  cells  of  the  broken  honey-combs,  ban 
queting  greedily  on  the  spoil,  and  then  winging  their  way 
full-freighted  to  their  homes.  As  to  the  poor  proprietors  of 
the  ruin,  they  seemed  to  have  no  heart  to  do  any  thing,  not 
even  to  taste  the  nectar  that  flowed  around  them ;  but  crawled 
backward  and  forward,  in  vacant  desolation,  as  I  have  seen  a 
poor  fellow  with  his  hands  in  his  pockets,  whistling  vacantly 
and  despondingly  about  the  ruins  of  his  house  that  had  been 
burnt. 

It  is  difficult  to  describe  the  bewilderment  and  confusion  of 
the  bees  of  the  bankrupt  hive  who  had  been  absent  at  the  time 
of  the  catastrophe,  and  who  arrived  from  time  to  time,  with 
full  cargoes  from  abroad.  At  first  they  wheeled  about  in 
the  air,  in  the  place  where  the  fallen  tree  had  once  reared  its 
head,  astonished  at  finding  it  all  a  vacuum.  At  length,  as  if 


A   TOUR  OF   THE  PRAIRIES.  33 

comprehending  their  disaster,  they  settled  down  in  clusters  on 
a  dry  branch  of  a  neighboring  tree,  whence  they  seemed  to 
contemplate  the  prostrate  ruin,  and  to  buzz  forth  doleful 
lamentations  over  the  downfall  of  their  republic.  It  was  a 
scene  on  which  the  "  melancholy  Jacques"  might  have  moral 
ized  by  the  hour. 

We  now  abandoned  the  place,  leaving  much  honey  in  the 
hollow  of  the  tree.  "It  will  all  be  cleared  off  by  varmint," 
said  one  of  the  rangers.  "What  vermin?"  asked  I.  "Oh, 
bears,  and  skunks,  and  racoons,  and  'possums.  The  bears  is 
the  knowingest  varmint  for  finding  out  a  bee-tree  in  the  world. 
They'll  gnaw  for  days  together  at  the  trunk  till  they  make  a 
hole  big  enough  to  get  in  their  paws,  and  then  they'll  haul  out 
honey,  bees  and  ail." 


CHAPTER  X. 

AMUSEMENTS  IN  THE  CAMP. — CONSULTATIONS. —HUNTERS'  FARE 
AND  FEASTING. — EVENING  SCENES. — CAMP  MELODY. — THE  FATE 
OF  AN  AMATEUR  OWL. 

ON  returning  to  the  camp,  we  found  it  a  scene  of  the  great 
est  hilarity.  Some  of  the  rangers  were  shooting  at  a  mark, 
others  were  leaping,  wrestling,  and  playing  at  prison  bars. 
They  were  mostly  young  men,  on  their  first  expedition,  in 
high  health  and  vigor,  and  buoyant  with  anticipations ;  and  I 
can  conceive  nothing  more  likely  to  set  the  youthful  blood 
into  a  flow,  than  a  wild  wood  life  of  the  kind,  and  the  range  of 
a  magnificent  wilderness,  abounding  with  game,  and  fruitful 
of  adventure.'  We  send  our  youth  abroad  to  grow  luxurious 
and  effeminate  in  Europe;  it  appears  to  me,  that  a  previous 
tour  on  the  prairies  would  be  more  likely  to  produce  that 
manliness,  simplicity,  and  self-dependence,  most  in  unison 
with  our  political  institutions. 

While  the  young  men  were  engaged  in  these  boisterous 
amusements,  a  graver  set,  composed  of  the  Captain,  the 
Doctor,  and  other  sages  and  leaders  of  the  camp,  were  seated 
or  stretched  out  on  the  grass,  round  a  frontier  map,  holding 
a  consultation  about  our  position,  and  the  course  we  were  to 
pursue. 

Our  plan  was  to  cross  the  Arkansas  just  above  where  the 
Bed  Fork  falls  into  it,  then  to  keep  westerly,  until  we  should 


34  A    TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

pass  through  a  grand  belt  of  open  forest,  called  the  Cross 
Timber,  which  ranges  nearly  north  and  south  from  the 
Arkansas  to  Red  River;  after  which,  we  were  to  keep  a 
southerly  course  toward  the  latter  river. 

Our  half-breed,  Beatte,  being  an  experienced  Osage  hunter, 
was  called  into  the  consultation.  * '  Have  you  ever  hunted  in 
this  direction?"  said  the  Captain.  "Yes,"  was  the  laconic 
reply. 

* '  Perhaps,  then,  you  can  tell  us  in  which  direction  lies  the 
Red  Fork  ?" 

' '  If  you  keep  along  yonder,  by  the  edge  of  the  prairie,  you 
will  come  to  a  bald  hill,  with  a  pile  of  stones  upon  it." 

"I  have  noticed  that  hill  as  I  was  hunting,"  said  the  Cap 
tain. 

"Well!  those  stones  were  setup  by  the  Osages  as  a  land 
mark:  from  that  spot  you  may  have  a  sight  of  the  Red 
Fork." 

"In  that  case,"  cried  the  Captain,  "we  shall  reach  the  Red 
Fork  to-morrow;  then  cross  the  Arkansas  above  it,  into  the 
Pawnee  country,  and  then  in  two  days  we  shall  crack  buffalo 
bones !" 

The  idea  of  arriving  at  the  adventurous  hunting  grounds  of 
the  Pawnees,  and  of  coming  upon  the  traces  of  the  buffaloes, 
made  every  eye  sparkle  with  animation.  Our  further  con 
versation  was  interrupted  by  the  sharp  report  of  a  rifle  at  no 
great  distance  from  the  camp. 

"That's  old  Ryan's  rifle,"  exclaimed  the  Captain;  "there's 
a  buck  down,  I'll  warrant !"  Nor  was  he  mistaken;  for,  before 
long,  the  veteran  made  his  appearance,  calling  upon  one  of  the 
younger  rangers  to  return  with  him,  and  aid  in  bringing  home 
the  carcass. 

The  surrounding  country,  in  fact,  abounded  with  game,  so 
that  the  camp  was  overstocked  with  provisions,  and,  as  no  less 
than  twenty  bee-trees  had  been  cut  down  in  the  vicinity,  every 
one  revelled  in  luxury.  With  the  wasteful  prodigality  of  hun 
ters,  there  was  a  continual  feasting,  and  scarce  any  one  put  by 
provision  for  the  morrow.  The  cooking  was  conducted  in 
hunter's  style:  the  meat  was  stuck  upon  tapering  spits  of 
dogwood,  which  were  thrust  perpendicularly  into  the  ground, 
so  as  to  sustain  the  joint  before  the  fire,  where  it  was  roasted 
or  broiled  with  all  its  juices  retained  in  it  in  a  manner  that 
would  have  tickled  the  palate  of  the  most  experienced  gour 
mand.  As  much  could  not  be  said  in  favor  of  the  bread.  It 


A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  35 

was  little  more  than  a  paste  made  of  flour  and  water,  and  fried 
like  fritters,  in  lard ;  though  some  adopted  a  ruder  style,  twist 
ing  it  round  the  ends  of  sticks,  and  thus  roasting  it  before  the 
fire.  In  either  way,  I  have  found  it  extremely  palatable  on 
the  prairies.  No  one  knows  the  true  relish  of  food  until  he  has 
a  hunter's  appetite. 

Before  sunset,  we  were  summoned  by  little  Tonish  to  a 
sumptuous  repast.  Blankets  had  been  spread  on  the  ground 
near  to  the  fire,  upon  which  we  took  our  seats.  A  large  dish, 
or  bowl,  made  from  the  root  of  a  maple  tree,  and  which  we 
had  purchased  at  the  Indian  village,  was  placed  on  the  ground 
before  us,  and  into  it  were  emptied  the  contents  of  one  of  the 
camp  kettles,  consisting  of  a  wild  turkey  hashed,  together  with 
slices  of  bacon  and  lumps  of  dough.  Beside  it  was  placed 
another  bowl  of  similar  ware,  containing  an  ample  supply  of 
fritters.  After  we  had  discussed  the  hash,  two  wooden  spits, 
on  which  the  ribs  of  a  fat  buck  were  broiling  before  the  fire, 
were  removed  and  planted  in  the  ground  before  us,  with  a 
triumphant  air,  by  little  Tonish.  Having  no  dishes,  we  had  to 
proceed  in  hunter's  style,  cutting  off  strips  and  slices  with  our 
hunting-knives,  and  dipping  them  in  salt  and  pepper.  To  do 
justice  to  Tonish's  cookery,  however,  and  to  the  keen  sauce  of 
the  prairies,  never  have  I  tasted  venison  so  delicious.  With 
all  this,  our  beverage  was  coffee,  boiled  in  a  camp  kettle, 
sweetened  with  brown  sugar,  and  drunk  out  of  tin  cups :  and 
such  was  the  style  of  our  banqueting  throughout  this  expedi 
tion,  whenever  provisions  were  plenty,  and  as  long  as  flour 
and  coffee  and  sugar  held  out. 

As  the  twilight  thickened  into  night,  the  sentinels  were 
marched  forth  to  their  stations  around  the  camp;  an  indis 
pensable  precaution  in  a  country  infested  by  Indians.  The 
encampment  now  presented  a  picturesque  appearance.  Camp 
fires  were  blazing  and  smouldering  here  and  there  among  the 
trees,  with  groups  of  rangers  round  them;  some  seated  T 
lying  on  the  ground,  others  standing  in  the  ruddy  glare  of  the 
flames,  or  in  shadowy  relief.  At  some  of  the  fires  there  w  as 
much  boisterous  mirth,  where  peals  of  laughter  were  mingled 
with  loud  ribald  jokes  and  uncouth  exclamations;  for  the 
troop  was  evidently  a  raw,  undisciplined  band,  levied  among 
the  wild  youngsters  of  the  frontier,  who  had  enlisted,  some  for 
the  sake  of  roving  adventure,  and  some  for  the  purpose  of 
getting  a  knowledge  of  the  country.  Many  of  them  were  the 
neighbors  of  their  officers,  and  accustomed  to  regard  them 


36  A   TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

with  the  familiarity  of  equals  and  companions.  None  of  them 
had  any  idea  of  the  restraint  and  decorum  of  a  camp,  or 
ambition  to  acquire  a  name  for  exactness  in  a  profession  in 
which  they  had  no  intention  of  continuing. 

While  this  boisterous  merriment  prevailed  at  some  of  the 
fires,  there  suddenly  rose  a  strain  of  nasal  melody  from 
another,  at  which  a  choir  of  "vocalists"  were  uniting  their 
voices  in  a  most  lugubrious  psahn  tune.  This  was  led  by  one 
of  the  lieutenants ;  a  tall,  spare  man,  who  we  were  informed 
had  officiated  as  schoolmaster,  singing-master,  and  occasionally 
as  Methodist  preacher,  in  one  of  the  villages  of  the  frontier. 
The  chant  rose  solemnly  and  sadly  in  the  night  air,  and 
reminded  me  of  the  description  of  similar  canticles  in  the 
camps  of  the  Covenanters ;  and,  indeed,  the  strange  medley  of 
figures  and  faces  and  uncouth  garbs,  congregated  together  in 
our  troop,  would  not  have  disgraced  the  banners  of  Praise-Grod 
Barebones. 

In  one  of  the  intervals  of  this  nasal  psalmody,  an  amateur 
owl,  as  if  in  competition,  began  his  dreary  hooting.  Immedi 
ately  there  was  a  cry  throughout  the  camp  of  "Charley's  owl! 
Charley's  owl!"  It  seems  this  "obscure  bird "  had  visited  the 
camp  every  night,  and  had  been  fired  at  by  one  of  the  senti 
nels,  a  half-witted  lad,  named  Charley;  who,  on  being  called 
up  for  firing  when  on  duty,  excused  himself  by  saying,  that  he 
understood  owls  made  uncommonly  good  soup. 

One  of  the  young  rangers  mimicked  the  cry  of  this  bird  of 
wisdom,  who,  with  a  simplicity  little  consonant  with  his 
character,  came  hovering  within  sight,  and  alighted  on  the 
nakad  branch  of  a  tree,  lit  up  by  the  blaze  of  our  fire.  The 
young  Count  immediately  seized  his  fowling-piece,  took  fatal 
aim,  and  in  a  twinkling  the  poor  bird  of  ill  omen  came  flutter 
ing  to  the  ground.  Charley  was  now  called  upon  to  make  and 
eat  his  dish  of  owl-soup,  but  declined,  as  he  had  not  shot  the 
bird. 

In  the  course  of  the  evening,  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  Captain's 
fire.  It  was  composed  of  huge  trunks  of  trees,  and  of  suffi 
cient  magnitude  to  roast  a  buffalo  whole.  Here  were  a  num 
ber  of  the  prime  hunters  and  leaders  of  the  camp,  some  sitting, 
some  standing,  and  others  lying  on  skins  or  blankets  before 
the  fire,  telling  old  frontier  stories  about  hunting  and  Indian 
warfare. 

As  the  night  advanced,  we  perceived  above  the  trees  to  the 
west,  a  ruddy  glow  flushing  up  the  sky. 


A   TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  37 

•> 

"  That  must  be  a  prairie  set  on  fire  by  the  Osage  hunters," 
said  the  Captain. 

"It  is  at  the  Red  Fork,"  said  Beatte,  regarding  the  sky. 
"  It  seems  but  three  miles  distant,  yet  it  perhaps  is  twenty." 

About  half  past  eight  o'clock,  a  beautiful  pale  light  gradu 
ally  sprang  up  in  the  east,  a  precursor  of  the  rising  moon. 
Drawing  off  from  the  Captain's  lodge,  I  now  prepared  for  the 
night's  repose.  I  had  determined  to  abandon  the  shelter  of 
the  tent,  and  henceforth  to  bivouac  like  the  rangers.  A  bear 
skin  spread  at  the  foot  of  a  tree  was  my  bed,  with  a  pair  of 
saddle-bags  for  a  pillow.  Wrapping  myself  in  blankets,  I 
stretched  myself  on  this  hunter's  couch,  and  soon  fell  into  a 
sound  and  sweet  sleep,  from  which  I  did  not  awake  until  the 
bugle  sounded  at  daybreak. 


CHAPTER  XL 

BREAKING  UP  OF  THE  ENCAMPMENT.— PICTURESQUE  MARCH.— 
GAME.  — CAMP  SCENES.— TRIUMPH  OF  A  YOUNG  HUNTER.— ILL 
SUCCESS  OF  AN  OLD  HUNTER. — FOUL  MURDER  OF  A  POLECAT. 

OCTOBER  14TH. — At  the  signal  note  of  the  bugle,  the  sentinels 
and  patrols  marched  in  from  their  stations  around  the  camp 
and  were  dismissed.  The  rangers  were  roused  from  their 
night's  repose,  and  soon  a  bustling  scene  took  place.  While 
some  cut  wood,  made  fires,  and  prepared  the  morning's  meal, 
others  struck  their  foul-weather  shelters  of  blankets,  and 
made  every  preparation  for  departure:  while  others  dashed 
about,  through  brush  and  brake,  catching  the  horses  and  lead 
ing  or  driving  them  into  camp. 

During  all  this  bustle  the  forest  rang  with  whoops,  and 
shouts,  and  peals  of  laughter;  when  all  had  breakfasted, 
packed  up  their  effects  and  camp  equipage,  and  loaded  the 
pack-horses,  the  bugle  sounded  to  saddle  and  mount.  By 
eight  o'clock  the  Avhole  troop  set  off  in  a  long  straggling  line, 
with  whoop  and  halloo,  intermingled  with  many  an  oath  at 
the  loitering  pack-horses,  and  in  a  little  while  the  forest,  which 
for  several  days  had  been  the  scene  of  such  unwonted  bustle 
and  uproar,  relapsed  into  its  primeval  solitude  and  silence. 

It  was  a  bright  sunny  morning,  with  a  pure  transparent 
atmosphere  that  seemed  to  bathe  the  very  heart  with  glad- 


38  A.   TOUR   OF  THE  P11AI1HES. 

• 

ness.  Our  march  continued  parallel  to  the  Arkansas,  through 
a  rich  and  varied  country;  sometimes  we  had  to  break  our 
way  through  alluvial  bottoms  matted  with  redundant  vegeta 
tion,  where  the  gigantic  trees  were  entangled  with  grap- vines, 
hanging  like  cordage  from  their  branches;  sometimes  we 
coasted  along  sluggish  brooks,  whose  feebly  trickling  current 
just  served  to  link  together  a  succession  of  glassy  pools,  im 
bedded  like  mirrors  in  the  quiet  bosom  of  the  forest,  reflecting 
its  autumnal  foliage,  and  patches  of  the  clear  blue  sky.  Some 
times  we  scrambled  up  broken  and  rocky  hills,  from  the  sum 
mits  of  winch  we  had  wide  views  stretching  on  one  side  over 
distant  prairies  diversified  by  groves  and  forests,  and  on  the 
other  ranging  along  a  line  of  blue  and  shadowy  hills  beyond 
the  waters  of  the  Arkansas. 

The  appearance  of  our  troop  was  suited  to  the  country; 
stretching  along  iri  a  line  of  upward  of  half  a  mile  in  length, 
winding  among  brakes  and  bushes,  and  up  and  down  in  the 
defiles  of  the  hills,  the  men  in  every  kind  of  uncouth  garb, 
with  long  rifles  on  their  shoulders,  and  mounted  on  horses  of 
every  color.  Jhe  pack-horses,  too,  would  incessantly  wander 
from  the  line  of  march,  to  crop  the  surrounding  herbage,  and 
were  banged  and  beaten  back  by  Tonish  and  his  half-breed 
compeers,  with  volleys  of  mongrel  oaths.  Every  now  and 
then  the  notes  of  the  bugle,  from  the  head  of  the  column, 
would  echo  through  the  woodlands  and  along  the  hollow  glens, 
summoning  up  stragglers,  and  announcing  the  line  of  march. 
The  whole  scene  reminded  me  of  the  description  given  of  bands 
of  buccaneers  penetrating  the  wilds  of  South  America,  on  their 
plundering  expeditions  against  the  Spanish  settlements. 

At  one  time  we  passed  through  a  luxuriant  bottom  or  mea 
dow  bordered  by  thickets,  where  the  tall  grass  was  pressed 
down  into  numerous  "deer  beds,"  where  those  animals  had 
couched  the  preceding  night.  Some  oak  trees  also  bore  signs 
of  having  been  clambered  by  bears,  in  quest  of  acorns,  the 
marks  of  their  claws  being  visible  in  the  bark. 

As  we  opened  a  glade  of  this  sheltered  meadow  we  beheld 
several  deer  bounding  away  in  wild  affright,  until,  having 
gained  some  distance,  they  would  stop  and  gaze  back,  with 
the  curiosity  common  to  this  animal,  at  the  strange  intruders 
into  their  solitudes.  There  was  immediately  a  sharp  report 
of  rifles  in  every  direction,  from  the  young  huntsmen  of  the 
troop,  but  they  were  too  eager  to  aim  surely,  and  the  deer,  un 
harmed,  bounded  away  into  the  depths  of  the  forest. 


A   TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  39 

In  the  course  of  our  march  we  struck  the  Arkansas,  but 
found  ourselves  still  below  the  Red  Fork,  and,  as  the  river 
made  deep  bends,  we  again  left  its  banks  and  continued 
through  the  woods  until  nearly  eight  o'clock,  when  we  en 
camped  in  a  beautiful  basin  bordered  by  a  fine  stream,  and 
shaded  by  clumps  of  lofty  oaks. 

The  horses  were  now  hobbled,  that  is  to  say,  their  fore  legs 
were  fettered  with  cords  or  leathern  straps,  so  as  to  impede 
their  movements,  and  prevent  their  wandering  from  the  camp. 
They  were  then  turned  loose  to  graze.  A  number  of  rangers, 
prime  hunters,  started  off  in  different  directions  in  search  of 
game.  There  was  no  whooping  nor  laughing  about  the  camp 
as  in  the  morning ;  all  were  either  busy  about  the  fires  pre 
paring  the  evening's  repast,  or  reposing  upon  the  grass.  Shots 
were  soon  heard  in  various  directions.  After  a  time  a  hunts 
man  rode  into  the  camp  with  the  carcass  of  a  fine  buck  hang 
ing  across  his  horse.  Shortly  afterward  came  in  a  couple  of 
stripling  hunters  on  foot,  one  of  whom  bore  on  his  shoulders 
the  body  of  a  doe.  He  was  evidently  proud  of  his  spoil,  being 
probably  one  of  his  first  achievements,  though  he  and  his  com 
panion  were  much  bantered  by  their  comrades,  as  young  be 
ginners  who  hunted  in  partnership. 

Just  as  the  night  set  in,  there  was  a  great  shouting  at  one 
end  of  the  camp,  and  immediately  afterward  a  body  of  young 
rangers  came  parading  round  the  various  fires,  bearing  one 
of  their  comrades  in  triumph  on  their  shoulders.  He  had  shot 
an  elk  for  the  first  time  in  his  life,  and  it  was  the  first  animal 
of  the  kind  that  had  been  killed  on  this  expedition.  The  young 
huntsman,  whose  name  was  M'Lellan,  was  the  hero  of  the 
camp  for  the  night,  and  was  the  "father  of  the  feast"  into 
the  bargain ;  for  portions  of  his  elk  were  seen  roasting  at  every 
fire. 

The  other  hunters  returned  without  success.  The  Captain 
had  observed  the  tracks  of  a  buffalo,  which  must  have  passed 
within  a  few  days,  and  had  tracked  a  bear  for  some  distance 
until  the  foot-prints  had  disappeared.  He  had  seen  an  elk, 
too,  on  the  banks  of  the  Arkansas,  which  walked  out  on  a 
sand-bar  of  the  river,  but  before  he  could  steal  round  through 
the  bushes  to  get  a  shot,  it  had  re-entered  the  woods. 

Our  own  hunter,  Beatte,  returned  silent  and  sulky,  from  an 
unsuccessful  hunt.  As  yet  he  had  brought  us  in  nothing,  and 
we  had  depended  for  our  supplies  of  venison  upon  the  Cap 
tain's  mess.  Beatte  was  evidently  mortified,  for  he  looked 


40  A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

down  with  contempt  upon  the  rangers,  as  raw  and  inexperi 
enced  woodsmen,  but  little  skilled  in  hunting;  they,  on  the 
other  hand,  regarded  Beatte  with  no  very  complacent  eye,  as 
one  or  an  evil  breed,  and  always  spoke  of  him  as  "the  In* 
dian." 

Our  little  Frenchman,  Tonish,  also,  by  his  incessant  boast 
ing,  and  chattering,  and  gasconading,  in  his  balderdashed  dia 
lect,  had  drawn  upon  himself  the  ridicule  of  many  of  the  wags 
of  the  troop,  who  amused  themselves  at  his  expense  in  a  kind 
of  raillery  by  no  means  remarkable  for  its  delicacy ;  but  the 
little  varlet  was  so  completely  fortified  by  vanity  and  self-con 
ceit,  that  he  was  invulnerable  to  every  joke.  I  must  confess, 
however,  that  I  felt  a  little  mortified  at  the  sorry  figure  our 
retainers  were  making  among  these  moss-troopers. of  the  fron 
tier.  Even  our  very  equipments  came  in  for  a  share  of  unpopu 
larity,  and  I  heard  many  sneers  at  the  double-barrelled  guns 
with  which  we  were  provided  against  smaller  game ;  the  lads 
of  the  West  holding  "  shot-guns, "  as  they  call  them,  in  great 
•contempt,  thinking  grouse,  partridges,  and  even  wild  turkeys 
as  beneath  their  serious  attention,  and  the  rifle  the  only  fire 
arm  worthy  of  a  hunter. 

I  was  awakened  before  daybreak  the  next  morning,  by  the 
mournful  howling  of  a  wolf,  who  was  skulking  about  the  pur 
lieus  of  the  camp,  attracted  by  the  scent  of  venison.  Scarcely 
had  the  first  gray  streak  of  dawn  appeared,  when  a  youngster 
at  one  of  the  distant  lodges,  shaking  off  his  sleep,  crowed  in 
imitation  of  a  cock,  with,  a  loud  clear  note  and  prolonged 
cadence,  that  would  have  done  credit  to  the  most  veteran 
chanticleer.  He  was  immediately  answered  fro~a  another 
quarter,  as  if  from  a  rival  rooster.  The  chant  was  echoed 
from  lodge  to  lodge,  an'd  followed  by  the  cackling  of  hens, 
quacking  of  ducks,  gabbling  of  turkeys,  and  grunting  of 
swine,  until  we  seemed  to  have  been  transported  into  the 
midst  of  a  farmyard,  with  all  its  inmates  in  full  concert 
around  us. 

After  riding  a  short  distance  this  morning,  we  came  upon  a 
well-worn  Indian  track,  and  following  it,  scrambled  to  the 
summit  of  a  hill,  whence  we  had  a  wide  prospect  over  a  coun 
try  diversified  by  rocky  ridges  and  waving  lines  of  upland, 
and  enriched  by  groves  and  clumps  of  trees  of  varied  tuft  and 
foliage.  At  a  distance  to  the  west,  to  our  great  satisfaction, 
we  beheld  the  Red  Fork  rolling  its  ruddy  current  to  the  Ar 
kansas,  and  found  that  we  were  above  the  point  of  junction. 


A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES.    .  41 

We  now  descended  and  pushed  forward,  with  much  difficulty, 
through  the  rich  alluvial  bottom  that  borders  the  Arkansas. 
Here  the  trees  were  interwoven  with  grape-vines,  forming  a 
kind  of  cordage,  from  trunk  to  trunk  and  limb  to  limb ;  there 
was  a  thick  undergrowth,  also,  of  bush  and  bramble,  and  such 
an  abundance  of  hops,  fit  for  gathering,  that  it  was  difficult  for 
our  horses  to  force  their  way  through. 

The  soil  was  imprinted  in  many  places  with  the  tracks  of 
deer,  and  the  claws  of  bears  were  to  be  traced  on  various  trees. 
Every  one  was  on  the  look-out  in  the  hope  of  starting  some 
game,  when  suddenly  there  was  a  bustle  and  a  clamor  in  a 
distant  part  of  the  line.  A  bear !  a  bear !  was  the  cry.  We 
all  pressed  forward  to  be  present  at  the  sport,  when  to  my 
infinite,  though  whimsical  chagrin,  I  found  it  to  'be  our  two 
worthies,  Beatte  and  Tonish,  perpetrating  a  foul  murder  on  a 
polecat,  or  skunk!  The  animal  had  ensconced  itself  beneath 
the  trunk  of  a  fallen  tree,  whence  it  kept  up  a  vigorous  defence 
in  its  peculiar  style,  until  the  surrounding  forest  was  in  a  high 
state  of  fragrance. 

Gibes  and  jokes  now  broke  out  on  all  sides  at  the  expense  of 
the  Indian  hunter,  and  he  was  advised  to  wear  the  scalp  of  the 
skunk  as  the  only  trophy  of  his  prowess.  When  they  found, 
however,  that  he  and  Tonish  were  absolutely  bent  upon  bearing 
off  the  carcass  as  a  peculiar  dainty,  there  was  a  universal 
expression  of  disgust ;  and  they  were  regarded  as  little  better 
than  cannibals. 

Mortified  at  this  ignominious  debut  of  our  two  hunters,  I 
insisted  upon  their  abandoning  their  prize  and  resuming  their 
march.  Beatte  complied  with  a  dogged,  .discontented  air,  and 
lagged  behind  muttering  to  himself.  Tonish,  however,  with 
his  usual  buoyancy,  consoled  himself  by  vociferous  eulogies  on 
the  richness  and  delicacy  of  a  roasted  polecat,  which  he  swore 
was  considered  the  daintiest  of  dishes  by  all  experienced  Indian 
gourmands.  It  was  with  difficulty  I  could  silence  his  loqua 
city  by  repeated  and  peremptory  commands.  A  Frenchman's 
vivacity,  however,  if  repressed  in  one  way,  will  break  out  in 
another,  and  Tonish  now  eased  off  his  spleen  by  bestowing 
volleys  of  oaths  and  dry  blows  on  the  pack-horses.  I  was 
likely  to  be  no  gainer  in  the  end,  by  my  opposition  to  the 
humors  of  these  varlets,  for  after  a  time,  Beatte,  who  had 
lagged  behind,  rode  up  to  the  head  oi  the  line  to  resume  his 
station  as  a  guide,  and  I  had  the  vexation  to  see  the  carcass  of 
his  prize,  stripped  of  its  skin,  and  looking  like  a  fat  sucking- 


42  J.  TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

pig,  dangling  behind  his  saddle.  I  made  a  solemn  vow,  how- 
ever,  in  secret,  that  our  fire  should  not  be  disgraced  by  the 
cooking  of  that  polecat. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE  CROSSING  OF  THE  ARKANSAS. 

WE  had  now  arrived  at  the  river,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
above  the  junction  of  the  Red  Fork ;  but  the  banks  were  steep 
and  crumbling,  and  the  current  was  deep  and  rapid.  It  was 
impossible,  therefore,  to  cross  at  this  place ;  and  we  resumed 
our  painful  course  through  the  forest,  dispatching  Beatte  ahead, 
in  search  of  a  fording  place.  We  had  proceeded  about  a  mile 
farther,  when  he  rejoined  us,  bringing  intelligence  of  a  place 
hard  by,  where  the  river,  for  a  great  part  of  its  breadth,  was 
rendered  f ordable  by  sand-bars,  and  the  remainder  might  easily 
be  swam  by  the  horses. 

Here,  then,  we  made  a  halt.  Some  of  the  rangers  set  to 
work  vigorously  with  their  axes,  felling  trees  on  the  edge  of 
the  river,  wherewith  to  form  rafts  for  the  transportation  of 
their  baggage  and  camp  equipage.  Others  patrolled  the  banks 
of  the  river  farther  up,  in  hopes  of  finding  a  better  fording 
place ;  being  unwilling  to  risk  their  horses  in  the  deep  channel. 

It  was  now  that  our  worthies,  Beatte  and  Tonish,  had  an 
opportunity  of  displaying  their  Indian  adroitness  and  resource. 
At  the  Osage  village  which  we  had  passed  a  day  or  two  before, 
they  had  procured  a  dry  buffalo  skin.  This  was  now  produced ; 
cords  were  passed  through  a  number  of  small  eyelet-holes  with 
which  it  was  bordered,  and  it  was  drawn  up,  until  it  formed  a 
kind  of  deep  trough.  Sticks  were  then  placed  athwart  it  on 
the  inside,  to  keep  it  in  shape ;  our  camp  equipage  and  a  part 
of  our  baggage  were  placed  within,  and  the  singular  bark  was 
carried  down  the  bank  and  set  afloat.  A  cord  was  attached  to 
the  prow,  which  Beatte  took  between  his  teeth,  and  throwing 
himself  into  the  water,  went  ahead,  towing  the  bark  after  him ; 
while  Tonish  followed  behind,  to  keep  it  steady  and  to  propel 
it.  Part  of  the  way  they  had  foothold,  and  were  enabled  to 
wade,  but  in  the  main  current  they  were  obliged  to  swim.  The 
whole  way,  they  whooped  and  yelled  in  the  Indian  style,  until 
they  landed  safely  on  the  opposite  shore. 


A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  43 

The  Commissioner  and  myself  were  so  well  pleased  with  this 
Indian  mode  of  ferriage,  that  we  determined  to  trust  ourselves 
in  the  buffalo  hide.  Our  companions,  the  Count  and  Mr.  L., 
had  proceeded  with  the  horses,  along  the  river  bank,  in  search 
of  a  ford  which  some  of  the  rangers  had  discovered,  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  distant.  While  we  were  waiting  for  the  return 
of  our  ferryman,  I  happened  to  cast  my  eyes  upon  a  heap  of 
luggage  under  a  bush,  and  descried  the  sleek  carcass  of  the 
polecat,  snugly  trussed  up,  and  ready  for  roasting  before  the 
evening  fire.  I  could  not  resist  the  temptation  to  plump  it  into 
the  river,  when  it  sunk  to  the  bottom  like  a  lump  of  lead ;  and 
thus  our  lodge  was  relieved  from  the  bad  odor  which  this  savory 
viand  had  threatened  to  bring  upon  it. 

Our  men  having  recrossed  with  their  cockle-shell  bark,  it 
was  drawn  on  shore,  half  filled  with  saddles,  saddlebags,  and 
other  luggage,  amounting  to  a  hundred  weight;  and  being 
again  placed  in  the  water,  I  was  invited  to  take  my  seat.  It 
appeared  to  me  pretty  much  like  the  embarkation  of  the  wise 
men  of  Gotham,  who  went  to  sea  in  a  bowl :  I  stepped  in,  how 
ever,  without  hesitation,  though  as  cautiously  as  possible,  and 
sat  down  on  the  top  of  the  luggage,  the  margin  of  the  hide 
sinking  to  within  a  hand's  breadth  of  the  water's  edge.  Rifles, 
fowling-pieces,  and  other  articles  of  small  bulk,  were  then 
handed  in,  until  I  protested  against  receiving  any  more  freight. 
We  then  launched  forth  upon  the  stream,  the  bark  being  towed 
as  before. 

It  was  with  a  sensation  half  serious,  half  comic,  that  I  found 
myself  thus  afloat,  on  the  skin  of  a  buffalo,  in  the  midst  of  a 
wild  river,  surrounded  by  wilderness,  and  towed  along  by  a 
half  savage,  whooping  and  yelling  like  a  devil  incarnate.  To 
please  the  vanity  of  little  Tonish,  I  discharged  the  double- 
barrelled  gun,  to  the  right  and  left,  when  in  the  centre  of  the 
stream.  The  report  echoed  along  the  woody  shores,  and  was 
answered  by  shouts  from  some  of  the  rangers,  to  the  great 
exultation  of  the  little  Frenchman,  who  took  to  himself  the 
whole  glory  of  this  Indian  mode  of  navigation. 

Our  voyage  was  accomplished  happily;  the  Commissioner 
was  ferried  across  with  equal  success,  and  all  our  effects  were 
brought  over  in  the  same  manner.  Nothing  could  equal  the 
vain-glorious  vaporing  of  little  Tonish,  as  he  strutted  about  the 
shore,  and  exulted  in  his  superior  skill  and  knowledge,  to  the 
rangers.  Beatte,  however,  kept  his  proud,  saturnine  look, 
without  a  smile.  He  had  a  vast  contempt  for  the  ignorance  of 


44  A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

the  rangers,  and  felt  that  he  had  been  undervalued  by  them. 
His  only  observation  was,  ' '  Dey  now  see  de  Indian  good  for 
some  ting,  anyhow!" 

.  The  broad,  sandy  shore  where  we  had  landed,  was  intersec 
ted  by  innumerable  tracks  of  elk,  deer,  bears,  racoons,  turkeys, 
and  water-fowl.  The  river  scenery  at  this  place  was  beauti 
fully  diversified,  presenting  long,  shining  reaches,  bordered 
by  willows  and  cottonwood  trees;  rich  bottoms,  with  lofty 
forests ;  among  which  towered  enormous  plane  trees,  and  the 
distance  was  closed  in  by  high  embowered  promontories.  The 
foliage  had  a  yellow  autumnal  tint,  which  gave  to  the  sunny 
landscape  the  golden  tone  of  one  of  the  landscapes  of  Claude 
Lorraine.  There  was  animation  given  to  the  scene,  by  a  raft 
of  logs  and  branches,  on  which  the  Captain  and  his  prime  com 
panion,  the  Doctor,  were  ferrying  their  effects  across  the 
stream ;  and  by  a  long  line  of  rangers  on  horseback,  fording 
the  river  obliquely,  along  a  series  of  sand-bars,  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  distant. 


CHAPTEE  XIII. 
THE  CAMP  OF  THE  GLEN. 

CAMP  GOSSIP.  —  PAWNEES  AND  THEIR  HABITS.  —  A  HUNTER'S  AD 
VENTURE. — HORSES  FOUND,  AND  MEN  LOST. 

BEING  joined  by  the  Captain  and  some  of  the  rangers,  we 
struck  into  the  woods  for  about  half  a  mile,  and  then  entered  a 
wild,  rocky  dell,  bordered  by  two  lofty  ridges  of  limestone, 
which  narrowed  as  we  advanced,  until  they  met  and  united ; 
making  almost  an  angle.  Here  a  fine  spring  of  water  rose 
among  the  rocks,  and  fed  a  silver  rill  that  ran  the  whole 
length  of  the  dell,  freshening  the  grass  with  which  it  was 
carpeted. 

In  this  rocky  nook  we  encamped,  among  tall  trees.  The 
rangers  gradually  joined  us,  straggling  through  the  forest 
singly  or  in  groups ;  some  on  horseback,  some  on  foot,  driving 
their  horses  before  them,  heavily  laden  with  baggage,  some 
dripping  wet,  having  fallen  into  the  river ;  for  they  had  ex 
perienced  much  fatigue  and  trouble  from  the  length  of  the 
ford,  and  the  depth  and  rapidity  of  the  stream.  They  looked 


A   TOUR   OP  THE  PRAIRIES,  45 

i 

not  unlike  banditti  returning  with  their  plunder,  and  the  wild 
dell  was  a  retreat  worthy  to  receive  them.  The  effect  was 
heightened  after  dark,  when  the  light  of  the  fires  was  cast  upon 
rugged  looking  groups  of  men  and  horses ;  with  baggage  tum 
bled  in  heaps,  rifles  piled  against  the  trees,  and  saddles, 
bridles,  and  powder-horns  hanging  about  their  trunks. 

At  the  encampment  we  were  joined  by  the  young  Count  and 
his  companion,  and  the  young  half-breed,  Antoine,  who  had 
all  passed  successfully  by  the  ford.  To  my  annoyance,  how 
ever,  I  discovered  that  both  of  my  horses  were  missing.  I  had 
supposed  them  in  the  charge  of  Antoine ;  but  he,  with  charac 
teristic  carelessness,  had  paid  no  heed  to  them,  and  they  had 
probably  wandered  from  the  line  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  It  was  arranged  that  Beatte  and  Antoine  should  recross 
the  river  at  an  early  hour  of  the  morning,  in  search  of  them. 

A  fat  buck,  and  a  number  of  wild  turkeys  being  brought 
into  the  camp,  we  managed,  with  the  addition  of  a  cup  of 
coffee,  to  make  a  comfortable  supper ;  after  which  I  repaired 
to  the  Captain's  lodge,  which  was  a  kind  of  council  fire  and 
gossiping  place  for  the  veterans  of  the  camp. 

As  we  were  conversing  together,  we  observed,  as  on  former 
nights,  a  dusky,  red  glow  in  the  west,  above  the  summits  of 
the  surrounding  cliffs.  It  was  again  attributed  to  Indian  fires 
on  the  prairies ;  and  supposed  to  be  on  the  western  side  of  the 
Arkansas.  If  so,  it  was  thought  they  must  be  made  by  some 
party  of  Pawnees,  as  the  Osage  hunters  seldom  ventured  in 
that  quarter.  Our  half-breeds,  however,  pronounced  them 
Osage  fires;  and  that  they  were  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Arkansas. 

The  conversation  now  turned  upon  the  Pawnees,  into  whose 
hunting  grounds  we  were  about  entering.  There  is  always 
some  wild  untamed  tribe  of  Indians,  who  form,  for  a  time,  the 
terror  of  a  frontier,  and  about  whom  all  kinds  of  fearful 
stories  are  told.  Such,  at  present,  was  the  case  with  the  Paw 
nees,  who  rove  the  regions  between  the  Arkansas  and  the  Red 
River,  and  the  prairies  of  Texas.  They  were  represented  as 
admirable  horsemen,  and  always  on  horseback;  mounted  on 
fleet  and  hardy  steeds,  the  wild  race  of  the  prairies.  With 
these  they  roam  the  great  plains  that  extend  about  the  Arkan 
sas,  the  Red  River,  and  through  Texas,  to  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains;  sometimes  engaged  in  hunting  the  deer  and  buffalo, 
sometimes  in  warlike  and  predatory  expeditions ;  for,  like  their 
counterparts,  the  sons  of  Ishmael,  their  hand  is  against  every 


46  A   TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

one,  and  every  one's  hand  against  them.  Some  of  them  have 
no  fixed  habitation,  but  dwell  in  tents  of  skin,  easily  packed 
up  and  transported,  so  that  they  are  here  to-day,  and  away,  no 
one  knows  where,  to-morrow. 

One  of  the  veteran  hunters  gave  several  anecdotes  of  their 
mode  of  fighting.  Luckless,  according  to  his  account,  is  the 
band  of  weary  traders  or  hunters  descried  by  them,  in  the 
midst  of  a  prairie.  Sometimes,  they  will  steal  upon  them  by 
stratagem,  hanging  with  one  leg  over  the  saddle,  and  their 
bodies  concealed ;  so  that  their  troop  at  a  distance  has  the  ap 
pearance  of  a  gang  of  wild  horses.  When  they  have  thus 
gained  sufficiently  upon  the  enemy,  they  will  suddenly  raise 
themselves  in  their  saddles,  and  come  like  a  rushing  blast,  all 
fluttering  with  feathers,  shaking  their  mantles,  brandishing 
their  weapons,  and  making  hideous  yells.  In  this  way,  they 
seek  to  strike  a  panic  into  the  horses,  and  put  them  to  the 
scamper,  when  they  will  pursue  and  carry  them  off  in  tri 
umph. 

The  best  mode  of  defence,  according  to  this  vetern  woods 
man,  is  to  get  into  the  covert  of  some  wood,  or  thicket ;  or  if 
there  be  none  at  hand,  to  dismount,  tie  the  horses  firmly  head 
to  head  in  a  circle,  so  that  they  cannot  break  away  and  scatter, 
and  resort  to  the  shelter  of  a  ravine,  or  make  a  hollow  in  the 
sand,  where  they  may  be  screened  from  the  shafts  of  the  Paw 
nees.  The  latter  chiefly  use  the  bow  and  arrow,  and  are  dex 
terous  archers;  circling  round  and  round  their  enemy,  and 
launching  their  arrows  when  at  full  speed.  They  are  chiefly 
formidable  on  the  prairies,  where  they  have  free  career  for 
their  horses,  and  no  trees  to  turn  aside  their  arrows.  They 
will  rarely  follow  a  flytng  enemy  into  the  forest. 

Several  anecdotes,  also,  were  given,  of  the  secrecy  and  cau 
tion  with  which  they  will  follow,  and  hang  about  the  camp  of 
an  enemy,  seeking  a  favorable  moment  for  plunder  or  attack. 

1  'We  must  now  begin  to  keep  a  sharp  look-out,"  said  the 
Captain.  "I  must  issue  written  orders,  that  no  man  shall 
hunt  without  leave,  or  fire  off  a  gun,  on  pain  of  j-iding  a  wooden 
horse  with  a  sharp  back.  I  have  a  wild  crew  of  young  fellows, 
unaccustomed  to  frontier  service.  It  will  be  difficult  to  teach 
them  caution.  We  are  now  in  the  land  of  a  silent,  watchful, 
crafty  people,  who,  when  we  least  suspect  it,  may  be  around 
us,  spying  out  all  our  movements,  and  ready  to  pounce  upon  all 
stragglers." 

' '  How  will  you  be  able  to  keep  your  men  from  firing,  if  they 


A   TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  47 

see  game  while  strolling  round  the  camp?"  asked  one  of  the 
rangers. 

' '  They  must  not  take  their  guns  with  them  unless  they  are 
on  duty,  or  have  permission. " 

"Ah,  Captain!"  cried  the  ranger,  "that  will  never  do  for 
me.  Where  I  go,  my  rifle  goes.  I  never  like  to  leave  it  be 
hind  ;  it's  like  a  part  of  myself.  There's  no  one  will  take  such 
care  of  it  as  I,  and  there's  nothing  will  take  such  care  of  me  as 
my  rifle." 

"There's  truth  in  all  that,"  said  the  Captain,  touched  by  a 
true  hunter's  sympathy.  "I've  had  my  rifle  pretty  nigh  as 
long  as  I  have  had  my  wife,  and  a  faithful  friend  it  has  been 
to  me." 

Here  the  Doctor,  who  is  as  keen  a  hunter  as  the  Captain, 
joined  in  the  conversation:  "A  neighbor  of  mine  says,  next  to 
my  rifle,  I'd  as  leave  lend  you  my  wife. " 

"There's  few,"  observed  the  Captain,  "that  take  care  of 
their  rifles  as  they  ought  to  be  taken  care  of. " 

"  Or  of  their  wives  either,"  replied  the  Doctor,  with  a  wink. 

"  That's  a  fact,"  rejoined  the  Captain. 

Word  was  now  brought  that  a  party  of  four  rangers,  headed 
by  ' '  Old  Eyan, "  were  missing.  They  had  separated  from  the 
main  body,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  when  searching 
for  a  ford,  and  had  straggled  off,  nobody  knew  whither. 
Many  conjectures  were  made  about  them,  and  some  apprehen 
sions  expressed  for  their  safety. 

"I  should  send  to  look  after  them,"  said  the  Captain,  "but 
old  Ryan  is  with  them,  and  he  knows  how  to  take  care  of  him 
self  and  of  them  too.  If  it  were  not  for  him,  I  would  not  give 
nrnch  for  the  rest ;  but  he  is  as  much  at  home  in  the  woods  or 
on  a  prairie  as  he  would  be  in  his  own  farmyard.  He's  never 
lost,  wherever  he  is.  There's  a  good  gang  of  them  to  stand  by 
one  another ;  four  to  watch  and  one  to  take  care  of  the  fire. " 

"It's  a  dismal  thing  to  get  lost  at  night  in  a  strange  and  wild 
country, "  said  one  of  the  younger  rangers. 

"  Not  if  you  have  one  or  two  in  company,"  said  an  elder  one. 
"For  my  part,  I  could  feel  as  cheerful  in  this  hollow  as  in  my 
own  home,  if  I  had  but  one  comrade  to  take  turns  to  watch 
and  keep  the  fire  going.  I  could  lie  here  for  hours,  and  gaze 
up  to  that  blazing  star  there,  that  seems  to  look  down  into  the 
camp  as  if  it  were  keeping  guard  over  it." 

' '  Aye,  the  stars  are  a  kind  of  company  to  one,  when  you 
have  to  keep  watch  alone.  That's  a  cheerful  star,  too,  some- 


48  A   TO  UN   OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

how ;  .that's  the  evening  star,  the  planet  Venus  they  call  it,  T 
think." 

"  If  that's  the  planet  Venus,"  said  one  of  the  council,  who,  I 
believe,  was  the  psalm-singing  schoolmaster,  "it  bodes  us  no 
good ;  for  I  recollect  reading  in  some  book  that  the  Pawnees 
worship  that  star,  and  sacrifice  their  prisoners  to  it.  So  I 
should  not  feel  the  better  for  the  sight  of  that  star  in  this  part 
of  the  country." 

"  Well,"  said  the  sergeant,  a  thorough-bred  woodsman,  "star 
or  no  star,  I  have  passed  many  a  night  alone  in  a  wilder  place 
than  this,  and  slept  sound  too,  I'll  warrant  you.  Once,  how 
ever,  I  had  rather  an  uneasy  time  of  it.  I  was  belated  in  pass 
ing  through  a  tract  of  wood,  near  the  Tombigbee  Eiver ;  so  I 
struck  a  light,  made  a  fire,  and  turned  my  horse  loose,  while 
I  stretched  myself  to  sleep.  By  and  by,  I  heard  the  wolves 
howl.  My  horse  came  crowding  near  me  for  protection,  for  he 
was  terribly  frightened.  I  drove  him  off,  but  he  returned,  and 
drew  nearer  and  nearer,  and  stood  looking  at  me  and  at  the 
fire,  and  dozing,  and  nodding,  and  tottering  on  his  fore  feet, 
for  he  was  powerful  tired.  After  a  while,  I  heard  a  strange 
dismal  cry.  I  thought  at  first  it  might  be  an  owl.  I  heard  it 
again,  and  then  I  knew  it  was  not  an  owl,  but  must  be  a  pan 
ther.  I  felt  rather  awkward,  for  I  had  no  weapon  but  a 
double-bladed  penknife.  I  however  prepared  for  defence  in 
the  best  way  I  could,  and  piled  up  small  brands  from  the  fire, 
to  pepper  him  with,  should  he  come  nigh.  The  company  of 
my  horse  now  seemed  a  comfort  to  me ;  the  poor  creature  laid 
down"  beside  me  and  soon  fell  asleep,  being  so  tired.  I  kept 
watch,  and  nodded  and  dozed,  and  started  awake,  and  looked 
round,  expecting  to  see  the  glaring  eyes  of  the  panther  close 
upon  me ;  but  somehow  or  other,  fatigue  got  the  better  of  me, 
and  I  fell  asleep  outright.  In  the  morning  I  found  the  tracks 
of  a  panther  within  sixty  paces.  They  were  as  large  as  my 
two  fists.  He  had  evidently  been  walking  backward  and  for 
ward,  trying  to  make  up  his  mind  to  attack  me ;  but  luckily, 
he  had  not  courage. " 

October  16th. — I  awoke  before  daylight.  The  moon  was 
shining  feebly  down  into  the  glen,  from  among  light  drifting 
clouds ;  the  camp  fires  were  nearly  burnt  out,  and  the  men 
lying  about  them,  wrapped  in  blankets.  With  the  first  streak 
of  day,  our  huntsman,  Beatte,  with  Antoine,  the  young  half- 
breed,  set  off  to  recross  the  river,  in  search  of  the  stray  horses, 
in  company  with  several  rangers  who  had  left  their  rifles  on 


A   TOUR  OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  49 

the  opposite  shore.  As  the  ford  was  deep,  and  they  were 
obliged  to  cross  in  a  diagonal  line,  against  a  rapid  current, 
they  had  to  be  mounted  on  the  tallest  and  strongest  horses. 

By  eight  o'clock,  Beatte  returned.  He  had  found  the  horses, 
but  had  lost  Antoine.  The  latter,  he  said,  was  a  boy,  a  green 
horn,  that  knew  nothing  of  the  woods.  He  had  wandered  out 
of  sight  of  him,  and  got  lost.  However,  there  were  plenty 
more  for  him  to  fall  in  company  with,  as  some  of  the  rangers 
had  gone  astray  also,  and  old  Ryan  and  his  party  had  not 
returned. 

We  waited  until  the  morning  was  somewhat  advanced,  in 
hopes  of  being  rejoined  by  the  stragglers,  but  they  did  not 
make  their  appearance.  The  Captain  observed,  that  the 
Indians  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  were  all  well  dis 
posed  to  the  whites ;  so  that  no  serious  apprehensions  need  be 
entertained  for  the  safety  of  the  missing.  The  greatest  danger 
was,  that  their  horses  might  be  stolen  in  the  night  by  strag 
gling  Osages.  He  determined,  therefore,  to  proceed,  leaving  a 
rear  guard  in  the  camp,  to  await  their  arrival. 

I  sat  on  a  rock  that  overhung  the  spring  at  the  upper  part  of 
the  dell,  and  amused  myself  by  watching  the  changing  scene 
before  me.  First,  the  preparations  for  departure.  Horses 
driven  in  from  the  purlieus  of  the  camp ;  rangers  riding  about 
among  rocks  and  bushes  in  quest  of  others  that  had  strayed  to 
a  distance ;  the  bustle  of  packing  up  camp  equipage,  and  the 
clamor  after  kettles  and  frying-pans  borrowed  by  one  mess 
from  another,  mixed  up  with  oaths  and  exclamations  at  restive 
horses,  or  others  that  had  wandered  away  to  graze  after  being 
packed,  among  which  the  voice  of  our  little  Frenchman, 
Tonish,  was  particularly  to  be  distinguished. 

The  bugle  sounded  the  signal  to  mount  and  march.  The 
troop  filed  off  in  irregular  line  down  the  glen,  and  through  the 
open  forest,  winding  and  gradually  disappearing  among  the 
trees,  though  the  clamor  of  voices  and  the  notes  of  the  bugle 
could  be  heard  for  some  time  afterward.  The  rear-guard 
remained  under  the  trees  in  the  lower  part  of  the  dell,  some  on 
horseback,  with  their  rifles  on  their  shoulders ;  others  seated 
by  the  fire  or  lying  on  the  ground,  gossiping  in  a  low,  lazy 
tone  of  voice,  their  horses  unsaddled,  standing  and  dozing 
around,  while  one  of  the  rangers,  profiting  by  this  interval  of 
leizure,  was  shaving  himself  before  a  pocket  mirror  stuck 
against  the  trunk  of  a  tree. 

The  clamor  of  voices  and  the  notes  of  the  bugle  at  length 


50  A   TOUR   OF  THE  PRAIRIES. 

died  away,  and  the  glen  relapsed  into  quiet  and  silence,  broken 
occasionally  by  the  low  murmuring  tone  of  the  group  around 
the  fire,  or  the  pensive  whistle  of  some  laggard  among  the 
trees ;  or  the  rustling  of  the  yellow  leaves,  which  the  lightest 
breath  of  air  brought  down  in  wavering  showers,  a  sign  of  the 
departing  glories  of  the  year. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

DEER-SHOOTING.— LIFE  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. — BEAUTIFUL  ENCAMP 
MENT. —HUNTER'S  LUCK. — ANECDOTES  OF  THE  DELA WARES  AND 
THEIR  SUPERSTITIONS. 

HAVING  passed  through  the  skirt  of  woodland  bordering  the 
river,  we  ascended  the  hills,  taking  a  westerly  course  through 
an  undulating  country  of  "oak  openings,"  where  the  eye 
stretched  over  wide  tracts  of  hill  and  dale,  diversified  by  for 
ests,  groves,  and  clumps  of  trees.  As  we  were  proceeding  at  a 
slow  pace,  those  who  were  at  the  head  of  the  line  descried 
four  deer  grazing  on  a  grassy  slope  about  half  a  mile  distant. 
They  apparently  had  not  perceived  our  approach,  and  con 
tinued  to  graze  in  perfect  tranquillity.  A  young  ranger  ob 
tained  permission  from  the  Captain  to  go  in  pursuit  of  them, 
and  the  troop  halted  in  lengthened  line,  watching  him  in 
silence.  Walking  his  horse  slowly  and  cautiously,  he  made  a 
circuit  until  a  screen  of  wood  intervened  between  him  and  the 
deer.  Dismounting  then,  he  left  his  horse  amorfg  the  trees, 
and  creeping  round  a  knoll,  was  hidden  from  our  view.  We 
now  kept  our  eyes  intently  fixed  on  the  deer,  which  continued 
grazing,  unconscious  of  their  danger.  Presently  there  was  the 
sharp  report  of  a  rifle ;  a  fine  buck  made  a  convulsive  bound 
and  fell  to  the  earth;  his  companions  scampered  off.  Immedi 
ately  our  whole  line  of  march  was  broken ;  there  was  a  helter- 
skelter  galloping  of  the  youngsters  of  the  troop,  eager  to  get  a 
shot  at  the  fugitives ;  and  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  person 
ages  in  the  chase  was  our  little  Frenchman  Tonish,  on  his 
silver-gray ;  having  abandoned  his  pack-horses  at  the  first  sight 
of  the  deer.  It  was  some  time  before  our  scattered  forces 
could  be  recalled  by  the  bugle,  and  our  march  resumed. 

Two  or  three  times  in  the  course  of  the  day  we  were  inter 
rupted  by  hurry-scurry  scenes  of  the  kind.  The  young  men 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PBAIRIES.  51 

of  the  troop  were  full  of  excitement  on  entering  an  unexplored 
country  abounding  in  game,  and  they  were  too  little  accus 
tomed  to  discipline  or  restraint  to  be  kept  in  order.  No  one, 
however,  was  more  unmanageable  than  Tonish.  Halving  an 
intense  conceit  of  his  skill  as  a  hunter,  and  an  irrepressible 
passion  for  display,  he  was  continually  sallying  forth,  like  an 
ill-broken  hound,  whenever  any  game  was  started,  and  had  as 
often  to  be  whipped  back. 

At  length  his  curiosity  got  a  salutary  check.  A  fat  doe 
came  bounding  along  in  full  view  of  the  whole  line.  Tonish 
dismounted,  levelled  his  rifle,  and  had  a  fair  shot.  The  doe 
kept  on.  He  sprang  upon  his  horse,  stood  up  on  the  saddle  like 
a  posture-master,  and  continued  gazing  after  the  animal  as  if 
certain  to  see  it  fall.  The  doe.  however,  kept  on  its  way 
rejoicing ;  a  laugh  broke  out  along  the  line,  the  little  French 
man  slipped  quietly  into  his  saddle,  began  to  belabor  and  blas 
pheme  the  wandering  pack-horses,  as  if  they  had  been  to  blame, 
and  for  some  time  we  were  relieved  from  his  vaunting  and 
vaporing. 

In  one  place  of  our  march  we  came  to  the  remains  of  an  old 
Indian  encampment,  on  the  banks  of  a  fine  stream,  with  the 
moss-grown  skulls  of  deer  lying  her^  and  there  about  it.  As 
we  were  in  the  Pawnee  country,  it  was  supposed,  of  course,  to 
to  have  been  a  camp  of  those  formidable  rovers ;  the  Doctor, 
however,  after  considering  the  shape  and  disposition  of  the 
lodges,  pronounced  it  the  camp  of  some  bold  Delawares,  who 
had  probably  made  a  brief  and  dashing  excursion  into  these 
dangerous  hunting  grounds. 

Having  proceeded  some  distance  farther,  we  observed  a  cou 
ple  of  figures  on  horseback,  slowly  moving  parallel  to  us  along 
the  edge  of  a  naked  hill  about  two  miles  distant ;  and  appar 
ently  reconnoitring  us.  There  was  a  halt,  and  much  gazing 
and  conjecturing.  Were  they  Indians?  If  Indians,  were  they 
Pawnees?  There  is  something  exciting  to  the  imagination  and 
stirring  to  the  feelings,  while  traversing  these  hostile  plains,  in 
seeing  a  horseman  prowling  along  the  horizon.  It  is  like  de 
scrying  a  sail  at  sea  in  time  of  war,  when  it  may  be  either  a 
privateer  or  a  pirate.  Our  conjectures  were  soon  set  at  rest 
by  reconnoitring  the  two  horsemen  through  a  small  spyglass, 
when  they  proved  to  be  two  of  the  men  we  had  left  at  the 
camp,  who  had  set  out  to  rejoin  us,  and  had  wandered  from 
the  track. 

Our  march  this  day  was  animating  and  delightful.      We 


52  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

were  in  a  region  of  adventure ;  breaking  our  way  through  a 
country  hitherto  untrodden  by  white  men,  excepting  perchance 
by  some  solitary  trapper.  The  weather  was  in  its  perfection, 
temperate,  genial  and  enlivening ;  a  deep  blue  sky  with  a  few 
light  feathery  clouds,  an  atmosphere  of  perfect  transparency, 
an  air  pure  and  bland,  and  a  glorious  country  spreading  out 
far  and  wide  in  the  golden  sunshine  of  an  autumnal  day ;  but 
all  silent,  lifeless,, without  a  human  habitation,  and  apparently 
without  a  human  inhabitant !  It  was  as  if  a  ban  hung  over 
this  fair  but  fated  region.  The  very  Indians  dared  not  abide 
here,  but  made  it  a  mere  scene  of  perilous  enterprise,  to  hunt 
for  a  few  days,  and  then  away. 

After  a  march  of  about  fifteen  miles  west  we  encamped  in  a 
beautiful  peninsula,  made  by  the  windings  and  doublings  of  a 
deep,  clear,  and  almost  motionless  brook,  and  covered  by  an 
open  grove  of  lofty  and  magnificent  trees.  Several  hunters 
immediately  started  forth  in  quest  of  game  before  the  noise  of 
the  camp  should  frighten  it  from  the  vicinity.  O.ur  man, 
Beatte,  also  took  his.  rifle  and  went  forth  alone,  in  a  different 
course  from  the  rest. 

For  my  own  part,  I  lay  on  the  grass  under  the  trees,  and 
built  castles  in  the  clouds,  and  indulged  in  the  very  luxury  of 
rural  repose.  Indeed  I  can  scarcely  conceive  a  kind  of  life 
more  calculated  to  put  both  mind  and  body  in  a  healthful  tone. 
A  morning's  ride  of  several  hours  diversified  by  hunting  inci 
dents;  an  encampment  in  the  afternoon  under  some  noble 
grove  on  the  borders  of  a  stream ;  an  evening  banquet  of  veni 
son,  fresh  killed,  roasted,  or  broiled  on  the  coals;  turkeys 
just  from  the  thickets  and  wild  honey  from  the  trees ;  and  all 
relished  wiyth  an  appetite  unknown  to  the  gourmets  of  the  cities. 
And  at  night — such  sweet  sleeping  in  the  open  air,  or  waking 
and  gazing  at  the  moon  and  stars,  shining  between  the  trees ! 

On  the  present  occasion,  however,  we  had  not  much  reason 
to  boast  of  our  larder.  But  one  deer  had  been  killed  during  the 
day,  and  none  of  that  had  reached  our  lodge.  We  were  fain, 
therefore,  to  stay  our  keen  appetites  by  some  scraps  of  turkey 
brought  from  the  last  encampment,  eked  out  with  a  slice  or 
two  of  salt  pork.  This  scarcity,  however,  did  not  continue 
long.  Before  dark  a  young  hunter  returned  well  laden  with 
spoil.  He  had  shot  a  deer,  cut  it  up  in  an  artist-like  style,  and, 
putting  the  meat  in  a  kind  of  sack  made  of  the  hide,  had  slung 
it  across  his  shoulder  and  trudged  with  it  to  camp. 

Not  long  after,  Beatte  made  his  appearance  with  a  fat  doe 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  '          53 

across  his  horse.  It  was  the  first  game  he  had  brought  in,  and 
I  was  glad  to  see  him  with  a  trophy  that  might  efface  the 
memory  of  the  polecat.  He  laid  the  carcass  down  by  our  fire 
without  saying  a  word,  and  then  turned  to  unsaddle  his  horse; 
nor  could  any  questions  from  us  about  his  hunting  draw  from 
him  more  than  laconic  replies.  If  Beatte,  however,  observed 
this  Indian  taciturnity  about  what  he  had  done,  Tonish  made 
up  for  it  by  boasting  of  what  he  meant  to  do.  Now  that  we 
were  in  a  good  hunting  country  he  meant  to  take  the  field,  and, 
if  we  would  take  his  word  for  it,  our  lodge  would  henceforth 
be  overwhelmed  with  game.  Luckily  his  talking  did  not  pre 
vent  his  working,  the  doe  was  skilfully  dissected,  several  fat 
ribs  roasted  before  the  fire,  the  coffee  kettle  replenished,  and 
in  a  little  while  we  were  enabled  to  indemnify  ourselves  luxuri 
ously  for  our  late  meagre  repast. 

The  Captain  did  not  return  until  late,  and  he  returned  empty- 
handed.  He  had  been  in  pursuit  of  his  usual  game,  the  deer, 
when  he  came  upon  the  tracks  of  a  gang  of  about  sixty  elk. 
Having  never  killed  an  animal  of  the  kind,  and  the  elk  being 
at  this  moment  an  object  of  ambition  among  all  "the  veteran 
hunters  of  the  camp,  he  abandoned  his  pursuit  of  the  deer, 
and  followed  the  newly  discovered  track.  After  some  time  he 
came  in  sight  of  the  elk,  ajid  had  several  fair  chances  of  a  shot, 
but  was  anxious  to  bring  down  a  large  buck  which  kept  in  the 
advance.  Finding  at  length  there  was  danger  of  the  whole 
gang  escaping  him,  he  fired  at  a  doe.  The  shot  took  effect, 
but  the  animal  had  sufficient  strength  to  keep  on  for  a  time 
with  its  companions.  From  the  tracks  of  bloed  he  felt  confi 
dent  it  was  mortally  wounded,  but  evening  came  on,  he  could 
not  keep  the  trail,  and  had  to  give  up  the  search  until  morn 
ing. 

Old  Ryan  and  his  little  band  had  not  yet  rejoined  us,  neither 
had  our  young  half-breed  Antoine  made  his  appearance.  It 
was  determined,  therefore,  to  remain  at  our  encampment  for 
the  following  day,  to  give  time  for  all  stragglers  to  arrive. 

The  conversation  this  evening,  among  the  old  huntsmen, 
turned  upon  the  Delaware  tribe,  one  of  whose  encampments  we 
had  passed  in  the  course  of  the  day ;  and  anecdotes  were  given 
of  their  prowess  in  war  and  dexterity  in  hunting.  They  used 
to  be  deadly  foes  of  the  Osages,  who  stood  in  great  awe  of  their 
desperate  valor,  though  they  were  apt  to  attribute  it  to  a  whim 
sical  cause.  ' '  Look  at  the  Delawares, "  would  they  say,  * '  dey 
got  short  leg— no  can  run— must  stand  and  fight  a  great  heap." 


04  A  TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

In  fact  the  Delawares  are  rather  short  legged,  while  the  Osages 
are  remarkable  for  length  of  limb. 

The  expeditions  of  the  Delawares,  whether  of  war  or  hunting, 
are  wide  and  f  earl  ess ;  a  small  band  of  them  will  penetrate  far 
into  these  dangerous  and  hostile  wilds,  and  will  push  their  en 
campments  even  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This  daring  tem 
per  may  be  in  some  measure  encouraged  by  one  of  the  super 
stitions  of  their  creed.  They  believe  that  a  guardian  spirit,  in 
the  form  of  a  great  eagle,  watches  over  them,  hovering  in  the 
sky,  far  out  of  sight.  Sometimes,  when  well  pleased  with 
them,  he  wheels  down  into  the  lower  regions,  and  may  be  seen 
circling  with  widespread  wings  against  the  white  clouds;  at 
such  times  the  seasons  are  propitious,  the  corn  grows  finely, 
and  they  have  great  success  in  hunting.  Sometimes,  however, 
he  is  angry,  and  then  he  vents  his  rage  in  the  thunder,  which 
is  his  voice,  and  the  lightning,  which  is  the  flashing  of  his  eye, 
and  strikes  dead  the  object  of  his  displeasure. 

The  Delawares  make  sacrifices  to  this  spirit,  who  occasion 
ally  lets  drop  a  feather  from  his  wing  in  token  of  satisfaction. 
These  feathers  render  the  wearer  invisible,  and  invulnerable. 
Indeed,  the  Indians  generally  consider  the  feathers  of  the  eagle 
possessed  of  occult  and  sovereign  virtues. 

At  one  time  a  party  of  the  Delawares,  in  the  course  of  a  bold 
excursion  into  the  Pawnee  hunting  grounds,  were  surrounded 
on  one  of  the  great  plains,  and  nearly  destroyed.  The  remnant 
took  refuge  on  the  summit  of  one  of  those  isolated  and  conical 
hills  which  rise  almost  like  artificial  mounds,  from  the  midst 
of  the  prairies?  Here  the  chief  warrior,  driven  almost  to  de 
spair,  sacrificed  his  horse  to  the  tutelar  spirit.  Suddenly  an 
enormous  eagle,  rushing  down  from  the  sky,  bore  off  the  vic 
tim  in  his  talons,  and  mounting  into  the  air,  dropped  a  quill 
feather  from  his  wing.  The  chief  caught  it  up  with  joy,  bound 
it  to  his  forehead,  and,  leading  his  followers  down  the  hill,  cut 
his  way  through  the  enemy  with  great  slaughter,  and  without 
any  one  of  his  party  receiving  a  wound. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  ELK.— PAWNEE  STORIES. 

WITH  the  morning  dawn,  the  prime  hunters  of  the  camp 
were  all  on  the  alert,  and  set  off  in  different  directions,  to  beat 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  55 

up  the  country  for  game.  The  Captain's  brother,  Sergeant 
Bean,  was  among  the  first,  and  returned  before  breakfast  with 
success,  having  killed  a  fat  doe,  almost  within  the  purlieus  of 
the  camp. 

When  breakfast  was  over,  the  Captain  mounted  his  horse, 
to  go  in  quest  of  the  elk  which  he  had  wounded  on  the  preced 
ing  evening ;  and  which,  he  was  persuaded,  had  received  its 
death- wound.  I  determined  to  join  him  in  the  search,  and  we 
accordingly  sallied  forth  together,  accompanied  also  by  his 
brother,  the  sergeant,  and  a  lieutenant.  Two  rangers  followed 
on  foot,  to  bring  home  the  carcass  of  the  doe  which  the  ser 
geant  had  killed.  We  had  not  ridden  far,  when  we  came  to 
where  it  lay,  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful 
woodland  scene.  The  two  rangers  immedia,tely  fell  to  work, 
with  true  hunters'  skill,  to  dismember  it,  and  prepare  it  for 
transportation  to  the  camp,  while  we  continued  on  our  course. 
We  passed  along  sloping  hillsides,  among  skirts  of  thicket  and 
scattered  forest  trees,  until  we  came  to  a  place  where  the  long 
herbage  was  pressed  down  with  numerous  elk  beds.  -Here  the 
Captain  had  first  roused  the  gang  of  elks,  and,  after  looking 
about  diligently  for  a  little  while,  he  pointed  out  their  "trail," 
the  foot-prints  of  which  were  as  large  as  those  of  homed  cat 
tle.  He  now  put  himself  upon  the  track,  and  went  quietly  for 
ward,  the  rest  of  us  following  Mm  in  Indian  file.  At  length  he 
halted  at  the  place  where  the  elk  had  been  when  shot  at.  Spots 
of  blood  on  the  surrounding  herbage  showed  that  the  shot  had 
been  effective.  The  wounded  animal  had  evidently  kept  for 
some  distance  with  the  rest  of  the  herd,  as  could  be  seen  by 
sprinklings  of  blood  here  and  there,  on  the  shrubs  and  weeds 
bordering  the  trail.  These  at  length  suddenly  disappeared. 
"SomewheBe  hereabout,"  said  the  Captain,  "the  elk  must 
have  turned  off  from  the  gang.  Whenever  they  feel  them 
selves  mortally  wounded,  they  will  turn  aside,  and  seek  some 
out-of-the-way  place  to  die  alone." 

There  was  something  in  this  picture  of  the  last  moments  of  a 
wounded  deer,  to  touch  the  sympathies  of  one  not  hardened  to 
the  gentle  disports  of  the  chase ;  such  sympathies,  however, 
are  but  transient.  Man  is  naturally  an  animal  of  prey ;  and, 
however  changed  by  civilization,  will  readily  relapse  into  his 
instinct  for  destruction.  I  found  my  ravenous  and  sangui 
nary  propensities  daily  growing  stronger  upon  the  prairies. 

After  looking  about  for  a  little  while,  the  Captain  succeeded 
in  finding  the  separate  trail  of  the  wounded  elk,  which  turned 


56  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

off  almost  at  right  angles  from  that  of  the  herd,  and  entered 
an  open  forest  of  scattered  trees.  The  traces  of  blood  became 
inore  faint  and  rare,  and  occurred  at  greater  distances:  at 
length  they  ceased  altogether,  and  the  ground  was  so  hard, 
and  the  herbage  so  much  parched  and  withered,  that  the  foot 
prints  of  the  animal  could  no  longer  be  perceived. 

"The  elk  must  lie  somewhere  in  tlus  neighborhood,"  said 
the  Captain,  "as  you  may  know  by  those  turkey-buzzards 
wheeling  about  in  the  air :  for  they  always  hover  in  that  way 
above  some  carcass.  However,  the  dead  elk  cannot  get  away, 
so  let  us  follow  the  trail  of  the  living  ones :  they  may  have 
halted  at  no  great  distance,  and  we  may  find  them  grazing, 
and  get  another  crack  at  them." 

We  accordingly  returned,  and  resumed  the  trail  of  the  elks, 
which  led  us  a  straggling  course  over  hill  and  dale,  covered 
with  scattered  oaks.  Every  now  and  then  we  would  catch  a 
glimpse  of  a  doer  bounding  away  across  some  glade  of  the 
forest,  but  the  Captain  was  not  to  be  diverted  from  his  elk 
hunt  by  such  inferior  game.  A  large  flock  of  wild  turkeys, 
too,  were  roused  by  the  trampling  of  our  horses ;  some  scam 
pered  off  as  fast  as  their  long  legs  could  carry  them ;  others 
fluttered  up  into  the  trees,  where  they  remained  with  out 
stretched  necks,  gazing  at  us.  The  Captain  would  not  allow  a 
rifle  to  be  discharged  at  them,  lest  it  should  alarm  the  elk; 
which  ho  hoped  to  find  in  the  vicinity.  At  length  we  came  to 
where  the  forest  ended  in  a  steep  bank,  and  the  Bed  For!- 
wound  its  way  below  us,  between  broad  sandy  shores.  Thr- 
trail  descended  the  bank,  and  we  could  trace  it,  with  our  eyesr 
across  the  level  sands,  until  it  terminated  in  the  river,  which, 
it  was  evident,  the  gang  had  forded  on  the  preceding  evening. 

"It  is  needless  to  follow  on  any  farther,"  said  the  Captain. 
"  The  elk  must  have  been  much  frightened,  and,  after  crossing 
the  river,  may  have  kept  on  for  twenty  miles  without  stop 
ping." 

Our  little  party  now  divided,  the  lieutenant  and  sergeant 
making  a  circuit  in  quest  of  game,  and  the  Captain  and  myself 
taking  the  direction  of  the  camp.  On  our  way,  we  came  to  a 
buffalo  track,  more  than  a  year  old.  It  was  not  wider  than  an 
ordinary  footpath,  and  worn  deep  into  the  soil;  for  these 
animals  follow  each  other  in  single  file.  Shortly  afterward, 
we  met  two  rangers  on  foot,  hunting.  They  had  wounded  an 
elk,  but  he  had  escaped ;  and  in  pursuing  him,  had  found  the 
one  shot  by  the  Captain  on  the  preceding  evening.  They 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  57 

turned  back,  and  conducted  us  to  it.  It  was  a  noble  animal, 
as  large  as  a  yearling  heifer,  and  lay  in  an  open  part  of  the 
forest,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  distant  from  th^  place  where  it 
had  been  shot.  The  turkey -buzzards,  which  we  had  previously 
noticed,  were  wheeling  in  the  air  above  it.  The  observation 
of  the  Captain  seemed  verified.  The  poor  animal,  as  life  was 
ebbing  away,  had  apparently  abandoned  its  unhurt  com 
panions,  and  turned  aside  to  die  alone. 

The  Captain  and  the  two  rangers  forthwith  fell  to  work, 
with  their  hunting-knives,  to  flay  and  cut  up  the  carcass.  It 
was  already  tainted  on  the  inside,  but  ample  collops  were  cut 
from  the  ribs  and  haunches,  and  laid  in  a  heap  on  the  out 
stretched  hide.  Holes  were  then  cut  along  the  border  of  the 
hide,  raw  thongs  were  passed  through  them,  and  the  whole 
drawn  up  like  a  sack,  which  was  swung  behind  the  Captain's 
saddle.  All  this  while,  the  turkey-buzzards  were  soaring  over 
head,  waiting  for  our  departure,  to  swoop  down  and  banquet 
on  the  carcass. 

Tne  wreck  of  the  poor  elk  being  thus  dismantled,  the  Cap 
tain  and  myself  mounted  our  horses,  and  jogged  back  to  the 
camp,  while  the  two  rangers  resumed  their  hunting. 

On  reaching  the  camp,  I  found  there  our  young  half-breed, 
Antoine.  After  separating  from  Bcatte,  in  the  search  after 
the  stray  horses  on  the  other  side  of  the  Arkansas,  he  had 
fallen  upon  a  wrong  track,  which  he  followed  for  several  miles, 
when  he  overtook  old  Ryan  and  his  party,  and  found  he  had 
been  following  their  traces. 

They  all  forded  the  Arkansas  about  eight  miles  above  our 
crossing  place,  and  found  their  way  to  our  late  encampment  in 
the  glen,  where  the  rear-guard  we  had  left  behind  was  waiting 
for  them.  Antoine,  being  well  mounted,  and  somewhat  im 
patient  to  rejoin  us,  had  pushed  on  alone,  following  our  trail, 
to  our  present  encampment,  and  bringing  the  carcass  of  a 
young  bear  which  he  had  killed. 

Our  camp,  during  the  residue  of  the  day,  presented  a  min 
gled  picture  of  bustle  and  repose.  Some  of  the  men  were  busy 
round  the  fires,  jerking  and  roasting  venison  and  bear's  meat, 
to  be  packed  up  as  a  future  supply.  Some  were  stretching 
and  dressing  the  skins  of  the  animals  they  had  killed ;  others 
were  washing  their  clothes  in  the  brook,  and  hanging  them  on 
the  bushes  to  dry ;  while  many  were  lying  on  the  grass,  and 
lazily  gossiping  in  the  shade.  Every  now  and  then  a  hunter 
would  return,  on  horseback  or  on  foot,  laden  with  game,  or 


58  TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

empty  handed.  Those  who  brought  home  any  spoil,  deposited 
it  at  the  Captain's  fire,  and  then  filed  off  to  their  respective 
messes,  to  relate  their  day's  exploits  to  their  companions.  The 
game  killed  at  this  camp  consisted  of  six  deer,  one  elk,  two 
bears,  and  six  or  eight  turkeys. 

During  the  last  two  or  three  days,  since  their  wild  Indian 
achievement  in  navigating  the  river,  our  retainers  had  risen 
in  consequence  among  the  rangers ;  and  now  I  found  Tonish 
making  himself  a  complete  oracle  among  some  of  the  raw  and 
inexperienced  recruits,  who  had  never  been  in  the  wilderness. 
He  had  continually  a  knot  hanging  about  him,  and  listening 
to  his  extravagant  tales  about  the  Pawnees,  with  whom  he 
pretended  to  have  had  fearful  encounters.  His  representa 
tions,  in  fact,  were  calculated  to  inspire  his  hearers  with  an 
awful  idea  of  the  foe  into  whose  lands  they  were  intruding. 
According  to  his  accounts,  the  rifle  of  the  white  man  was  no 
match  for  the  bow  and  arrow  of  the  Pawnee.  When  the  rifle 
was  once  discharged,  it  took  time  and  trouble  to  load  it  again, 
and  in  the  meantime  the  enemy  could  keep  on  launching  his 
shafts  as  fast  as  he  could  draw  his  bow.  Then  the  Pawnee, 
according  to  Tonish,  could  shoot,  with  unerring  aim,  three 
hundred  yards,  and  send  his  arrow  clean  through  and  through 
a  buffalo ;  nay,  he  had  known  a  Pawnee  shaft  pass  through  one 
buffalo  and  wound  another.  And  then  the  way  the  Pawnees 
sheltered  themselves  from  the  shots  of  their  enemy:  they 
would  hang  with  one  leg  over  the  saddle,  crouching  their  bodies 
along  the  opposite  side  of  their  horse,  and  would  shoot  their 
arrows  from  under  his  neck,  while  at  full  speed ! 

If  Tonish  was  to  be  believed,  there  was  peril  at  every  step  in 
these  debatable  grounds  of  the  Indian  tribes.  Pawnees  lurked 
unseen  among  the  thickets  and  ravines.  They  had  their  scouts 
and  sentinels  on  the  summit  of  the  mounds  which  command 
a  view  over  the  prairies,  where  they  lay  crouched  in  the  tall 
grass;  only  now  and  then  raising  their  heads  to  watch  the 
movements  of  any  war  or  hunting  party  that  might  be  passing 
in  lengthened  line  below.  At  night,  they  would  lurk  round  an 
encampment;  crawling  through  the  grass,  and  imitating  the 
movements  of  a  wolf,  so  as  to  deceive  the  sentinel  on  the  out 
post,  until,  having  arrived  sufficiently  near,  they  would  speed 
an  arrow  through  his  heart,  and  retreat  undiscovered.  In 
telling  his  stories,  Tonish  would  appeal  from  time  to  time  to 
Beatte,  for  the  truth  of  what  he  said ;  the  only  reply  would  be 
a  nod  or  shrug  of  the  shoulders;  the  latter  being  divided  in 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  o9 

mind  between  a  distaste  for  the  gasconading  spirit  of  his  com 
rade,  and  a  sovereign  contempt  for  the  inexperience  of  the 
young  rangers  in  all  that  he  considered  true  knowledge. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

A  SICK  CAMP.— THE  MARCH.— THE  DISABLED  HORSE.— OLD  RYAN 
AND  THE  STRAGGLERS.  — SYMPTOMS  OF  CHANGE  OF  WEATHER, 
AND  CHANGE  OF  HUMORS. 

OCTOBER  18TH.— We  prepared  to  march  at  the  usual  hour, 
but  word  was  brought  to  the  Captain  that  three  of  the  rangers, 
who  had  been  attacked  with  the  measles,  were  unable  to  pro 
ceed,  and  that  another  one  was  missing.  The  last  was  an  old 
frontiersman,  by  the  name  of  Sawyer,  who  had  gained  years 
without  experience ;  and  having  sallied  forth  to  hunt,  on  the  pre 
ceding  day,  had  probably  lost  his  way  on  the  prairies.  A 
guard  of  ten  men  was,  therefore,  left  to  take  care  of  the  sick, 
and  wait  for  the  straggler.  If  the  former  recovered  sufficiently 
in  the  course  of  two  or  three  days,  they  were  to  rejoin  the 
main  body,  otherwise  to  be  escorted  back  to  the  garrison. 

Taking  our  leave  of  the  sick  camp,  we  shaped  our  course 
westward,  along  the  heads  of  small  streams,  all  wandering,  in 
deep  ravines,  towards  the  Red  Fork.  The  land  was  high  and 
undulating,  or  "rolling, "as  it  is  termed  in  the  West;  with  a 
poor  hungry  soil  mingled  with  the  sandstone,  which  is  unusal 
in  this  part  of  the  country,  and  checkered  with  harsh  forests  of 
post-oak  and  black-jack. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning,  I  received  a  lesson  on  the  im 
portance  of  being  chary  of  one's  steed  on  the  prairies.  The 
one  I  rode  surpassed  in  action  most  horses  of  the  troop,  and 
was  of  great  mettle  and  a  generous  spirit.  In  crossing  the 
deep  ravines,  he  would  scramble  up  the  steep  banks  like  a  cat, 
and  was  always  for  leaping  the  narrow  runs  of  water.  I  was 
not  aware  of  the  imprudence  of  indulging  him  in  such  exer 
tions,  until,  in  leaping  him  across  a  small  brook,  I  felt  him 
immediately  falcer  beneath  me.  He  limped  forward  a  short 
distance,  but  soon  fell  stark  lame,  having  sprained  his  shoulder. 
What  was  to  be  done?  He  could  not  keep  up  with  the  troop, 
and  was  too  valuable  to  be  abandoned  on  the  prairie.  The 


60  4   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

only  alternative  was  to  send  him  back  to  join  the  invalids  in 
the  sick  camp,  and  to  share  their  fortunes.  Nobody,  however, 
seemed  disposed  to  lead  him  back,  although  I  offered  a  liberal 
reward.  Either  the  stories  of  Tonish  about  the  Pawnees  had 
spread  an  apprehension  of  lurking  foes,  and  imminent  perils  on 
the  prairies ;  or  there  was  a  fear  of  missing  the  trail  and  getting 
lost.  At  length  two  young  men  stepped  forward  and  agreed 
to  go  in  company,  so  that,  should  they  be  benighted  on  the 
prairies,  there  might  be  one  to  watch  while  the  other  slept. 

The  horse  was  accordingly  consigned  to  their  care,  and  I 
looked  after  him  with  a  rueful  eye,  as  he  limped  off,  for  it 
seemed  as  if,  with  him,  all  strength  and  buoyancy  had  departed 
from  me. 

I  looked  round  for  a  steed  to  supply  his  place,  and  fixed  my 
eyes  upon  the  gallant  gray  which  I  had  transferred  at  the 
Agency  to  Tonish.  The  moment,  however,  that  I  hinted  about 
his  dismounting  and  taking  up  with  the  supernumerary  pony, 
the  little  varlet  broke  out  into  vociferous  remonstrances  and 
lamentations,  gasping  and  almost  strangling,  in  his  eagerness 
to  give  vent  to  them.  I  saw  that  to  unhorse  him  would  be  to 
prostrate  his  spirit  and  cut  his  vanity  to  the  quick.  I  had  not 
the  heart  to  inflict  such  a  wound,  or  to  bring  down  the  poor 
devil  from  his  transient  vainglory;  so  I  left  him  in  possession 
of  lu's  gallant  gray;  and  contented  myself  with  shifting  my 
saddle  to  the  jaded  pony. 

I  was  now  sensible  of  the  complete  reverse  to  which  a  horse 
man  is  exposed  on  the  prairies.  I  felt  how  completely  the 
spirit  of  the  rider  depended  upon .  his  steed.  I  had  hitherto 
been  able  to  make  excursions  at  will  from  the  line,  and  to  gallop 
in  pursuit  of  any  object  of  interest  or  curiosity.  I  was  now 
reduced  to  the  tone  of  the  jaded  animal  I  bestrode,  and  doomed 
to  plod  on  patiently  and  slowly  after  my  file  leader.  Above  all, 
I  was  made  conscious  how  unwise  it  is,  on  expeditions  of  the 
kind,  where  a  man's  life  may  depend  upon  the  strength,  and 
speed,  and  freshness  of  his  horse,  to  task  the  generous  animal 
by  any  unnecessary  exertion  of  his  powers. 

I  have  observed  that  the  wary  and  experienced  huntsman 
and  traveller  of  the  prairies  is  always  sparing  of  his  horse, 
when  on  a  journey ;  never,  except  in  emergency,  putting  him 
off  of  a  walk.  The  regular  journeyings  of  frontiersmen  and  In 
dians,  when  on  a  long  march,  seldom  exceed  above  fifteen  miles 
a  day,  and  are  generally  about  ten  or  twelve,  and  they  never 
indulge  in  capricious  galloping.  Many  of  those,  however,  with 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PUAIUIKS.  01 

whom  I  was  travelling  were  young  and  inexperienced,  and  full 
of  excitement  at  finding  themselves  in  a  country  abounding 
with  game.  It  was  impossible  to  retain  them  in  the  sobriety  of 
a  march,  or  to  keep  them  to  the  line.  As  we  broke  our  way 
through  the  coverts  and  ravines,  and  the  deer  started,  up  and 
scampered  off  to  the  right  and  left,  the  rifle  balls  would  whiz 
after  them,  and  our  young  hunters  dash  off  in  pursuit.  At  one 
time  they  made  a  grand  burst  after  what  they  supposed  to  be 
a  gang  of  bears,  but  soon  pulled  up  on  discovering  them  to  be 
black  wolves,  prowling  in  company. 

After  a  march  of  about  twelve  miles  we  encamped,  a  little  after 
mid-day,  on  the  borders  of  a  brook  which  loitered  through  a 
deep  ravine.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  old  Ryan,  the 
Nestor  of  the  camp,  made  his  appearance,  followed  by  his  little 
band  of  stragglers.  He  was  greeted  with  joyful  acclamations, 
which  showed  the  estimation  in  which  he  was  held  by  his 
brother  woodmen.  The  little  band  came  laden  with  venison ; 
a  fine  haunch  of  which  the  veteran  hunter  laid,  as  a  present,  by 
the  Captain's  fire. 

Our  men,  Beatte  and  Tonish,  both  sallied  forth,  early  in  the 
afternoon,  to  hunt.  Towards  evening  the  former  returned, 
with  a  fine  buck  across  his  horse.  He  laid  it  down,  as  usual,  in 
silence,  and  proceeded  to  unsaddle  and  turn  his  horse  loose. 
Tonish  came  back  without  any  game,  but  with  much  more 
glory;  having  made  several  capital  shots,  though  unluckily 
the  wounded  deer  had  all  escaped  him. 

There  was  an  abundant  supply  of  meat  in  the  camp;  for, 
besides  other  game,  three  elk  had  been  killed.  The  wary  and 
veteran  woodmen  were  all  busy  jerking  meat,  against  a  time 
of  scarcity;  the  less  experienced  revelled  in  present  abund 
ance,  leaving  the  morrow  to  provide  for  itself. 

On  the  following  morning  (October  19th),  I  succeeded  in 
changing  my  pony  and  a  reasonable  sum  of  money  for  a 
strong  and  active  horse.  It  was  a  great  satisfaction  to  find 
myself  once  more  tolerably  well  mounted.  I  perceived,  how 
ever,  that  there  would  be  little  difficulty  in  making  a  selection 
from  among  the  troop,  for  the  rangers  had  all  that  propensity 
for  "swapping,"  or,  as  they  term  it,  "trading,"  which  per 
vades  the  West.  In  the  course  of  our  expedition,  there  was 
scarcely  a  horse,  rifle,  powder-horn,  or  blanket  that  did  not 
change  owners  several  times;  and  one  keen  " trader  "  boasted 
of  having,  by  dint  of  frequent  bargains,  changed  a  bad  horse 
into  a  good  one,  and  put  a  hundred  dollars  in  his  pocket. 


62  A   TOUR   ON  TiLE  PRAIRIES. 

The  morning  was  lowering  and  sultry,  with  low  muttering 
of  distant  thunder.  The  change  of  weather  had  its  effect  upon 
the  spirits  of  the  troop.  The  camp  was  unusually  sober  and 
.quiet ;  there  was  none  of  the  accustomed  farmyard  melody  of 
crowing  and  cackling  at  daybreak ;  none  of  the  bursts  of  mer 
riment,  the  loud  jokes  and  banterings,  that  had  commonly 
prevailed  during  the  bustle  of  equipment.  Now  and  then 
might  be  heard  a  short  strain  of  a  song,  a  faint  laugh,  or  a  soli 
tary  whistle ;  but,  in  general,  every  one  went  silently  and  dog 
gedly  about  the  duties  of  the  camp,  or  the  preparations  tor 
departure. 

When  the  time  arrived  to  saddle  and  mount,  five  horses  were 
reported  as  missing ;  although  all  the  woods  and  thickets  had 
been  beaten  up  for  some  distance  round  the  camp.  Several 
rangers  were  dispatched  to  "skir"  the  country  round  in  que^t 
of  them.  In  the  meantime,  the  thunder  continued  to  growl,  and 
we  had  a  passing  shower.  The  horses,  like  their  riders,  were 
affected  by  the  change  of  weather.  They  stood  here  and  there 
about  the  camp,  some  saddled  and  bridled,  others  loose,  but  all 
spiritless  and  dozing,  with  stooping  head,  one  hind  leg  partly 
drawn  up  so  as  to  rest  on  the  point  of  the  hoof,  and  the  whole 
hide  reeking  with  the  rain,  and  sending  up  wreaths  of  vapor. 
The  men,  too,  waited  in  listless  groups  the  return  of  their  com 
rades  who  had  gone  in  quest  of  the  horses ;  now  and  then  turn 
ing  up  an  anxious  eye  to  the  drifting  clouds,  which  boded  an 
approaching  storm.  Gloomy  weather  inspires  gloomy  thoughts. 
Some  expressed  fears  that  we  were  dogged  by  some  party  of 
Indians,  who  had  stolen  the  horses  in  the  night.  The  most 
prevalent  apprehension,  however,  was  that  they  had  returned 
on  their  traces  to  our  last  encampment,  or  had  started  off  on 
a  direct  line  for  Fort  Gibson.  In  this  respect,  the  instinct  of 
horses  is  said  to  resemble  that  of  the  pigeon.  They  will  strike 
for  home  by  a  direct  course,  passing  through  tracts  of  wilder 
ness  which  they  have  never  before  traversed. 

After  delaying  until  the  morning  was  somewhat  advanced,  a 
lieutenant  with  a  guard  was  appointed  to  await  the  return  of 
the  rangers,  and  we  set  off  on  our  day's  journey,  considerably 
reduced  in  numbers ;  much,  as  I  thought,  to  the  discomposure 
of  some  of  the  troop,  who  intimated  that  we  might  prove  too 
weak-handed,  in  case  of  an  encounter  with  the  Pawnees. 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  63 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

THUNDER-STORM  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.— THE   STORM   ENCAMPMENT.— 
NIGHT  SCENE. — INDIAN  STORIES.— A  FRIGHTENED   HORSE. 

OUR  march  for  a  part  of  the  day ;  lay  a  little  to  the  south  of 
west,  through  straggling  forests  of  the  kind  of  low  scrubbed 
trees  already  mentioned,  called  "post-oaks"  and  "black-jacks." 
The  soil  of  these  "oak  barrens"  is  loose  and  unsound;  being 
little  better  at  times  than  a  mere  quicksand,  in  which,  in  rainy 
weather,  the  horse's  hoof  slips  from  side  to  side,  and  now  and 
then  sinks  in  a  rotten,  spongy  turf,  to  the  fetlock.  Such  was 
the  case  at  present  in  consequence  of  successive  thunder- 
showers,  through  which  we  draggled  along  in  dogged  silence. 
Several  deer  were  roused  by  our  approach,  and  scudded  across 
the  forest  glades ;  but  no  one,  as  formerly,  broke  the  line  of 
march  to  pursue  them.  At  one  time,  we  passed  the  bones  and 
horns  of  a  buffalo,  and  at  another  time  a  buffalo  track,  not 
above  three  days  old.  These  signs  of  the  vicinity  of  this 
grand  game  of  the  prairies,  had  a  reviving  effect  on  the  spirits 
of  our  huntsmen ;  but  it  was  of  transient  duration. 

In  crossing  a  prairie  of  moderate  extent,  rendered  little  bet 
ter  than  a  slippery  bog  by  the  recent  showers,  we  were  over 
taken  by  a  violent  thunder-gust.  The  rain  came  rattling  upon 
us  in  torrents,  and  spattered  up  like  steam  along  the  ground ; 
the  whole  landscape  was  suddenly  wrapped  in  gloom  that  gave 
a  vivid  effect  to  the  intense  sheets  of  lightning,  while  the  thun 
der  seemed  to  burst  over  our  very  heads,  and  was  reverbe 
rated  by  the  groves  and  forests  that  checkered  and  skirted  the 
prairie.  Man  and  beast  were  so  pelted,  drenched,  and  con 
founded,  that  the  line  was  thrown  in  complete  confusion ;  some 
of  the  horses  were  so  frightened  as  to  be  almost  unmanage 
able,  and  our  scattered  cavalcade  looked  like  a  tempest-tossed 
fleet,  driven  hither  and  thither,  at  the  mercy  of  wind  and 
wave. 

At  length,  at  half -past  two  o'clock,  we  came  to  a  halt,  and 
gathering  together  our  forces,  encamped  in  an  open  and  lofty 
grove,  with  a  prairie  on  one  side  and  a  stream  on  the  other. 
The  forest  immediately  rang  with  thS  sound  of  the  axe,  and 
the  crash  of  falling  trees.  Huge  fires  were  soon  blazing ;  blan 
kets  were  stretched  before  them,  by  way  of  tents ;  booths  were 
hastily  reared  of  bark  and  skins;  every  fire  had  its  group 


64  ^    TOUR   ON  THE  PR  AI  HI  PIS. 

drawn  close  round  it,  drying  and  warming  themselves,  or  pre 
paring  a  comforting  meal.  Some  of  the  rangers  were  dis 
charging  and  cleaning  their  rifles,  which  had  been  exposed  to 
the  rain ;  while  the  horses,  relieved  from  their  saddles  and 
burdens,  rolled  in  the  wet  grass. 

The  showers  continued  from  time  to  time,  until  late  in  the 
evening.  Before  dark,  our  horses  were  gathered  in  and  teth 
ered  about  the  skirts  of  the  camp,  within  the  outposts,  thror.gb 
fear  of  Indian  prowlers,  who  are  apt  to  take  advantage  of 
stormy  nights  for  their  depredations  and  assaults.  As  the 
night  thickened,  the  huge  fires  became  more  and  more  lumi 
nous  ;  lighting  up  masses  of  the  overhanging  foliage,  and  leav 
ing  other  parts  of  the  grove  in  deep  gloom.  Every  fire  had  its 
goblin  group  around  it,  while  the  tethered  horses  were  dimly 
seen,  like  spectres,  among  the  thickets;  excepting  that  here 
and  there  a  gray  one  stood  out  in  bright  relief. 

The  grove,  thus  fitfully  lighted  up  by  the  ruddy  glare  of  the 
fires,  resembled  a  vast  leafy  dome,  walled  in  by  opaque  dark 
ness  ;  but  every  now  and  then  two  or  three  quivering  flashes 
of  lightning  in  quick  succession,  would  suddenly  revoal  a  vast 
champaign  country,  where  fields  and  forests,  and  running 
streams,  would  start,  as  it  were,  into  existence  for  a  few 
brief  seconds,  and,  before  the  eye  could  ascertain  them,  vanish 
again  into  gloom. 

A  thunder-storm  on  a  prairie,  as  upon  the  ocean,  derives 
grandeur  and  sublimity  from  the  wild  and  boundless  waste 
over  which  it  rages  and  bellows.  It  is  not  surprising  that 
these  awful  phenomena  of  nature  should  be  objects  of  super 
stitious  reverence  to  the  poor  savages,  and  that  they  should 
consider  the  thunder  the  angry  voice  of  the  Great  Spirit.  As 
our  half-breeds  sat  gossiping  round  the  fire,  I  drew  from  them 
some  of  the  notions  entertained  on  the  subject  by  their  Indian 
friends.  The  latter  declare  that  extinguished  thunderbolts  are 
sometimes  picked  up  by  hunters  on  the  prairies,  who  use  them 
for  the  heads  of  arrows  and  lances,  and  that  any  warrior  thus 
armed  is  invincible.  Should  a  thunder-storm  occur,  however, 
during  battle,  he  is  liable  to  be  carried  away  by  the  thunder, 
and  never  heard  of  more. 

A  warrior  of  the  Konza  tribe,  bunting  on  a  prairie,  was 
overtaken  by  a  stornf,  and  struck  down  senseless  by  the 
thunder.  On  recovering,  he  beheld  the  thunderbolt  lying  on 
the  ground,  and  a  horse  standing  beside  it.  Snatching  up  the 
bolt,  he  sprang  upon  the  horse,  but  found,  too  late,  that  he 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRATRIES.  G5 

was  astride  of  the  lightning.  In  an  instant  he  was  whisked 
away  over  prairies  and  forests,  and  streams  and  deserts,  until 
he  was  flung  senseless  at  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains; 
whence,  on  recovering,  it  took  him  several  months  to  return 
to  his  own  people. 

This  story  reminded  me  of  an  Indian  tradition,  related  by  a 
traveller,  of  the  fate  of  a  warrior  who  saw  the  thunder  lying 
upon  the  ground,  with  a  beautifully  wrought  moccason  on 
each  side  of  it.  Thinking  he  had  found  a  prize,  he  put  on  the 
moccasons;  but  they  bore  him  away  to  the  land  of  spirits, 
whence  he  never  returned. 

These  are  simple  and  artless  tales,  but  they  had  a  wild  and 
romantic  interest  heard  from  the  lips  of  half -savage  narrators, 
round  a  hunter's  fire,  on  a  stormy  night,  with  a  forest  on  one 
side,  and  a  howling  waste  on  the  other ;  and  where,  perad ven 
ture,  savage  foes  might  be  lurking  in  the  outer  darkness. 

Our  conversation  was  interrupted  by  a  loud  clap  of  thunder, 
followed  immediately  by  the  sound  of  a  horse  galloping  off 
madly  into  the  waste.  Every  one  listened  in  mute  silence. 
The  hoofs  resounded  vigorously  for  a  time,  but  grew  fainter 
and  fainter,  until  they  died  away  in  remote  distance. 

When  the  sound  was  no  longer  to  be  heard,  the  listeners 
turned  to  conjecture  what  could  have  caused  this  sudden 
scamper.  Some  thought  the  horse  had  been  startled  by  the 
thunder;  others,  that  some  lurking  Indian  had  galloped  off 
with  him.  To  this  it  was  objected,  that  the  usual  mode  with 
the  Indians  is  to  steal  quietly  upon  the  horse,  take  off  his 
fetters,  mount  him  gently,  and  walk  him  off  as  silently  as  pos 
sible,  leading  off  others,  without  any  unusual  stir  or  noise  to 
disturb  the  camp. 

On  the  other  hand,  it  was  stated  as  a  common  practice  with 
the  Indians,  to  creep  among  a  troop  of  .horses  when  grazing  at 
night,  mount  one  quietly,  and  then  start  off  suddenly  at  full 
speed.  Nothing  is  so  contagious  among  horses  as  a  panic ;  one 
sudden  break-away  of  this  kind,  will  sometimes  alarm  the 
whole  troop,  and  they  will  set  off,  helter-skelter,  after  the 
leader. 

Every  one  who  had  a  horse  grazing  on  the  skirts  of  the 
camp  was  uneasy,  lest  his  should  be  the  fugitive ;  but  it  was 
impossible  to  ascertain  the  fact  until  morning.  Those  who 
had  tethered  their  horses  felt  more  secure;  though  horses 
thus  tied  up,  and  limited  to  a  short  range  at  night,  are  apt 
to  fall  off  in  flesh  and  strength,  during  a  long  march;  and 


66  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

many  of  the  horses  of  the  troop  already  gave  signs  of  being 
wayworn. 

After  a  gloomy  and  unruly  night,  "the  morning  dawned 
oright  and  clear,  and  a  glorious  sunrise  transformed  the  whole 
landscape,  as  if  by  magic.  The  late  dreary  wilderness  bright 
ened  into  a'  fine  open  country,  with  stately  groves,  and  clumps 
of  oaks  of  a  gigantic  size,  some  of  which  stood  singly,  as  if 
planted  for  ornament  and  shade,  in  the  midst  of  rich  meadows ; 
while  our  horses,  scattered  about,  and  grazing  under  them, 
gave  to  the  whole  the  air  of  a  noble  park.  It  was  difficult  to 
realize  the  fact  that  we  were  so  far  in  the  wilds  beyond  the 
residence  of  man.  Our  encampment,  alone,  had  a  savage 
appearance  •  with  its  rude  tents  of  skins  and  blankets,  and  its 
columns  of  blue  smoke  rising  among  the  trees. 

The  first  care  in  the  morning,  was  to  look  after  our  horses 
Some  of  them  had  wandered  to  a  distance,  but  all  were  fortu 
nately  found ;  even  the  one  whose  clattering  hoofs  had  caused 
such  uneasiness  in  the  night.  He  had  come  to  a  halt  about  a 
mile  from  the  camp,  and  was  found  quietly  grazing  near  a 
brook.  The  bugle  sounded  for  departure  about  half  past  eight. 
As  we  were  in  greater  risk  of  Indian  molestation  the  farther 
we  advanced,  our  line  was  formed  with  more  precision  than 
heretofore.  Every  one  had  his  station  assigned  him,  and  was 
forbidden  to  leave  it  in  pursuit  of  game,  without  special  per 
mission.  The  pack-horses  were  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
line,  and  a  strong  guai'd  in  the  rear. 


CHAPTEE  XYIII. 

A     GRAND     PRAIRIE. — CLIFF     CASTLE.— BUFFALO     TRACKS. — DEER 
HUNTED  BY  WOLVES. — CROSS  TIMBER. 

AFTER  a  toilsome  march  of  some  distance  through  a  country 
cut  up  by  ravines  and  brooks,  and  entangled  by  thickets,  we 
emerged  upon  a  grand  prairie.  Here  one  of  the  characteristic 
scenes  of  the  Far  West  broke  upon  us.  An  immense  extent  of 
grassy,  undulating,  or,  as  it  is  termed,  rolling  country,  with 
here  and  there  a  clump  of  trees,  dimly  seen  in  the  distance 
like  a  ship  at  sea ;  the  landscape  deriving  sublimity  from  its 
vastness  and  simplicity.  To  the  southwest,  on  the  summit  of 


A   TO  Ull  ON  TRK  PRAIRIES  67 

a  hill,  was  a  singular  crest  of  broken  rocks,  resembling  a 
ruined  fortress.  It  reminded  me  of  the  ruin  of  some  Moorish 
castle,  crowning  a  height  in  the  midst  of  a  lonely  Spanish 
landscape.  To  this  hill  we  gave  the  name  of  Cliff  Castle. 

The  praiiies  of  these  great  hunting  regions  differed  in  the 
character  of  their  vegetation  from  those  through  whick  I  had 
hitherto  passed.  Instead  of  a  profusion  of  tall  flowering 
plants  and  long  flaunting  grasses,  they  were  covered  with 
a  shorter  growth  of  herbage  called  buffalo  grass,  somewhat 
coarse,  but,  at  the  proper  seasons,  affording  excellent  and 
abundant  pasturage.  At  present  it  was  growing  wiry,  and  in 
many  places  was  too  much  parched  for  grazing. 

The  weather  was  verging  into  that  serene  but  somewhat 
arid  season  called  the  Indian  Summer.  There  was  a  smoky 
haze  in  the  atmosphere  that  tempered  the  brightness  of  the 
sunshine  into  a  golden  tint,  softening  the  i'eatures  of  the  land 
scape,  and  giving  a  vagueness  to  the  outlines  of  distant 
objects.  This  haziness  was  daily  increasing,  and  was  attri 
buted  to  the  burning  of  distant  prairies  by  the  Indian  hunting 
parties. 

We  had  not  gone  far  upon  the  prairie  before  we  came  to 
where  deeply  worn  footpaths  were  seen  traversing  the  country : 
sometimes  two  or  three  would  keep  on  parallel  to  each  other, 
and  but  a  few  paces  apart.  These  were  pronounced  to  be 
traces  of  buffaloes,  where  large  droves  had  passed.  There 
were  tracks  also  of  horses,  which  were  observed  with  some 
attention  by  our  experienced  hunters.  They  could  not  be  the 
tracks  of  wild  horses,  as  there  were  no  prints  of  the  hoofs  of 
colts ;  all  were  full-grown.  As  the  horses  evidently  were  not 
shod,  it  was  concluded  they  must  belong  to  some  hunting 
party  of  Pawnees.  In  the  course  of  the  morning,  the  tracks 
of  a  single  horse,  with  shoes,  were  discovered.  This  might  be 
the  horse  of  a  Cherokee  hunter,  or  perhaps  a  horse  stolen  from 
the  whites  of  the  frontier.  Thus,  in  traversing  these  perilous 
wastes,  every  footprint  and  dint  of  hoof  becomes  matter  of 
cautious  inspection  and  shrewd  surmise ;  and  the  question  con 
tinually  is,  whether  it  be  the  trace  of  friend  or  foe,  whether  of 
recent  or  ancient  date,  and  whether  the  being  that  made  it  be 
out  of  reach,  or  liable  to  be  encountered. 

We  were  getting  more  and  more  into  the  game  country :  as 
we  proceeded,  we  repeatedly  saw  deer  to  4}he  right  and  left, 
bounding  off  for  the  coverts ;  but  their  appearance  no  longer 
excited  the  same  eagerness  to  pursue.  In  passing  along  s 


68  A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

slope  of  the  prairie,  between  two  rolling  swells  of  land,  we 
came  in  sight  of  a  genuine  natural  hunting  match.  A  pack  of 
seven  black  wolves  and  one  white  one  were  in  full  chase  of  a 
buck,  which  they  had  nearly  tired  down.  They  crossed  the 
line  of  our  march  without  apparently  perceiving  us-;  we  saw 
them  have  a  fair  run  of  nearly  a  mile,  gaining  upon  the  buck 
until  they  were  leaping  upon  his  haunches,  when  he  plunged 
down  a  ravine.  Some  of  our  party  galloped  to  a  rising  ground 
commanding  a  view  of  the  ravine.  The  poor  buck  was  com 
pletely  beset,  some  on  his  flanks,  some  at  his  throat :  he  made 
two  or  three  struggles  and  desperate  bounds,  but  was  dragged 
down,  overpowered,  and  torn  to  pieces.  The  black  wolves,  in 
their  ravenous  hunger  and  fury,  took  no  notice  of  the  distant 
group  of  horsemen ;  but  the  wjiite  wolf,  apparently  less  game, 
abandoned  the  prey,  and  scampered  over  hill  and  dale,  rousing 
various  deer  that  were  crouched  in  the  hollows,  and  which 
bounded  off  likewise  in  different  directions.  It  was  altogether 
a  wild  scene,  worthy  of  the  "hunting  grounds," 

We  now  came  once  more  in  sight  of  the  Red  Fork,  winding 
its  turbid  course  between  well- wooded  hills,  and  through  a 
vast  and  magnificent  landscape.  The  prairies  bordering  on 
tho  rivers  are  always  varied  in  this  way  with  woodland,  so 
beautifully  interspersed  as  to  appear  to  have  been  laid  out  by 
the  hand  of  taste ;  and  they  only  want  here  and  there  a  village 
spire,  the  battlements  of  a  castle,  or  the  turrets  of  an  old 
family  mansion  rising  from  among  the  trees,  to  rival  the  most 
ornamented  scenery  of  Europe. 

About  midday  we  reached  the  edge  of  that  scattered  belt  of 
forest  land,  about  forty  miles  in  widthT  which  stretches  across 
the  country  from  north  to  south,  from  the  Arkansas  to  the 
Red  River,  separating  the  upper  from  the  lower  prairies,  and 
commonly  caUed  the  "Cross  Timber."  On  ths  skirts  of  this 
iorest  land,  just  on  the  edge  of  a  prairie,  we  found  traces  of  a 
Pawnee  encampment  of  between  one  and  two  hundred  lodges, 
showing  that  the  party  must  have  been  numerous.  The  skull 
of  a  buffalo  lay  near  the  camp,  and  the  moss  which  had  gath 
ered  on  it  proved  that  the  encampment  was  at  least  a  year  old. 
About  half  a  mile  off  we  encamped  in  a  beautiful  grove, 
watered  by  a  fine  spring  and  rivulet.  Our  day's  journey  had 
been  about  fourteen  miles. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  we  were  rejoined  by  two  of 
Lieutenant  King's  party,  which  we  had  left  behind  a  few  days 
before,  to  look  after  stray  horses.  ^11  tho  horses  had  been 


A.   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  69 

found,  though  some  had  wandered  to  the  distance  of  several 
miles.  The  lieutenant,  with  seventeen  of  his  companions,  had 
remained  at  our  last  night's  encampment  to  hunt,  having  come 
upon  recent  traces  of  buffalo.  They  had  also  seen  a  fine  wild 
horse,  which,  however,  had  galloped  off  with  a  speed  that 
defied  pursuit. 

Confident  anticipations  were  now  indulged,  that  on  the  fol 
lowing  day  we  should  meet  with  buffalo,  and  perhaps  with 
wild  horses,  and  every  one  was  in  spirits.  We  needed  some 
excitement  of  the  kind,  for  our  young  men  were  growing 
weary  of  marching  and  encamping  under  restraint,  and  pro 
visions  this  day  were  scanty.  The  Captain  and  several  of  the 
rangers  went  out  hunting,  but  brought  home  nothing  bMt  a 
small  deer  and  a  few  turkeys.  Our  two  men,  Beatte  and 
Tonish,  likewise  went  out.  The  former  returned  with  a  deer 
athwart  his  horse,  which,  as  usual,  he  laid  down  by  our  lodge, 
and  said  nothing.  Tonish  returned  with  no  game,  but  with 
his  customary  budget  of  wonderful  tales.  Both  he  and  tho 
deer  had  done  marvels.  Not  one  had  come  within  the  lure  of 
his  rifle  without  being  hit  in  a  mortal  part,  yet,  strange  to  say, 
every  one  had  kept  on  his  way  without  flinching.  We  all 
determined  that,  from  the  accuracy  of  his  aim,  Tonish  must 
have  shot  with  charmed  balls,  but  that  every  deer  had  a 
charmed  life.  The  most  important  intelligence  brought  by 
him,  however,  was,  that  he  had  seen  the  fresh  tracks  of 
several  wild  horses.  He  now  considered  himself  upon  the 
eve  of  great  exploits,  for  there  was  nothing  upon  which  he 
glorified  himself  more  than  his  skill  in  horse-catching. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
HUNTERS'  ANTICIPATIONS.— THE  RUGGED  FORD. — A  WILD  HORSE. 

OCTOBER  21ST. — This  morning  the  camp  was  in  a  bustle  at  an 
early  hour :  the  expectation  of  falling  in  with  buffalo  in  the 
course  of  the  day  roused  every  one's  spirit.  There  was  a 
continual  cracking  of  rifles,  that  they  might  be  reloaded: 
the  shot  was  drawn  off  from  double-barrelled  guns,  and  balls 
were  substituted.  Tonish,  however,  prepared  chiefly  for  a 
campaign  against  wild  horses.  He  took  the  field,  with  a  coil 
of  cordage  hung  at  his  saddle-bow,  and  a  couple  of  white 


70  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

wands,  something  like  fishing-rods  eight  or  ten  feet  in  length, 
with  forked  ends.  The  coil  of  cordage  thus  used  in  hunting 
the  wild  horse,  is  called  a  lariat,  and  answers  to  the  lasso  of 
South  America.  It  is  not  flung,  however,  in  the  graceful  and 
dexterous  Spanish  style.  The  hunter  after  a  hard  chase,  when 
he  succeeds  in  getting  almost  head  and  head  with  the  wild 
horse,  hitches  the  running  noose  of  the  lariat  over  his  head  by 
means  of  the  forked  stick;  then  letting  him  have  the  full 
length  of  the  cord^  plays  him  like  a  fish,  and  chokes  him  into 
subjection. 

All  this  Tonish  promised  to  exemplify  to  our  full  satisfac 
tion;  we  had  not  much  confidence  in  his  success,  and  feared 
he  might  knock  up  a  good  horse  in.  a  headlong  gallop  after 
a  bad  one,  for,  like  all  the  French  Creoles,  he  was  a  merciless 
hard  rider.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  to  keep  a  sharp  eye 
upon  him,  and  to  check  his  sallying  propensities. 

We  had  not  proceeded  far  on  our  morning's  march,  when  we 
wore  checked  by  a  deep  stream,  running  along  the  bottom  of  a 
thickly  wooded  ravine.  After  coasting  it  for  a  couple  of  miles, 
we  came  to  a  fording  place;  but  to  get  down  to  it  was  the 
difficulty,  for  the  banks  were  steep  and  crumbling,  and  over 
grown  with  forest  trees,  .mingled  with  thickets,  brambles,  and 
grape-vines.  At  length  the  leading  horseman  broke  his  way 
through  the  thicket,  and  his  horse,  putting  his  feet  together, 
slid  down  the  black  crumbling  bank,  to  the  narrow  margin  of 
the  stream ;  then  floundering  across,  with  mud  and  water  up 
to  the  saddle-girths,  he  scrambled  up  the  opposite  bank,  and 
arrived  safe  on  level  ground.  The  whole  line  followed  pell- 
mell  after  the  leader,  and  pushing  forward  in  close  order, 
Indian  file,  they  crowded  each  other  down  the  bank  and  into 
the  stream.  Some  of  the  horsemen  missed  the  ford,  and  were 
soused  over  head  and  ears;  one  was  unhorsed,  and  plumped 
head  foremost  into  the  middle  of  the  stream:  for  my  own 
part,  while  pressed  forward,  and  hurried  over  the  bank  by 
those  behind  me,  I  was  interrupted  by  a  grape-vine,  as  thick  as 
a  cable,  which  hung  in  a  festoon  as  low  as  the  saddle-bow,  and 
dragging  me  from  the  saddle,  threw  me  among  the  feet  of  the 
trampling  horses.  Fortunately,  I  escaped  without  injury, 
regained  my  steed,  crossed  the  stream  without  further  diffi 
culty,  and  was  enabled  to  join  in  the  merriment  occasioned  by 
the  ludicrous  disasters. 

It  is  at  passes  like  this  that  occur  the  most  dangerous  ambus 
cades  and  sanguinary  surprises  of  Indian  warfare.  A  party  of 


A  TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  71 

savages  well  placed  among  the  thickets,  might  have  made  sad 
havoc  among  our  men,  while  entangled  in  the  ravine. 

We  now  came  out  upon  a  vast  and  glorious  prairie,  spreading 
out  Beneath  the  golden  beams  of  an  autumnal  sun.  The  deep 
and  frequent  traces  of  buffalo,  showed  it  to  be  one  of  their 
favorite  grazing  grounds,  yet  none  were  to  be  seen.  In  the 
course  of  the  morning ;  we  were  overtaken  by  the  lieutenant 
and  seventeen  men,  who  had  remained  behind,  and  who  came 
laden  with  the  spoils  of  buffaloes ;  having  killed  three  on  the 
preceding  day.  One  of  the  rangers,  however,  had  little  luck 
to  boast  of;  his  horse  having  taken  fright  at  sight  of  the 
buffaloes,  thrown  his  rider,  and  escaped  into  the  woods. 

The  excitement  of  our  hunters,  both  young  and  old,  now  rose 
almost  to  fever  height ;  scarce  any  of  them  having  ever  encoun 
tered  any  of  this  far-famed  game  if  tiie  prairies.  Accord 
ingly,  when  in  the  course  of  the  day  the  cry  of  buffalo !  buffalo ! 
rose  from  one  part  of  the  line,  fche  .vhole  oroop  were  thrown  in 
agitation.  We  were  just  then  passing  through  a  beautiful 
part  of  the  prairie,  finely  diversified  by  hills  and  slopes,  and 
woody  dells,  and  high,  stately  groves.  Those  who  had  given 
the  alarm,  pointed  out  a  large  olacli-looking  animal,  slowly 
moving  along  the  side  of  a  rising  ground,  about  owo  miles  off. 
The  ever-ready  Toiiish  jumped  up,  and  stood  with  his  feet  on 
the  saddle,  and  his  forked  sticks  ±n  his  Hands,  like  a  posture- 
master  or  scaramouch  at  a  circus,  just  :eady  for  a  feat  of 
horsemanship.  After  gazing  at  the  animal  for  a  moment, 
winch  he  could  have  seen  full  as  v^ell  without  rising  from,  his 
stirrups,  he  pronounced  it  a  wild  horse;  and  dropping  again 
into  his  saddle,  was  about  to  dash  off  full  tilt  in  pursuit, 
when,  to  his  inexpressible  chagrin,  he  was  called  back,  and 
ordered  to  keep  to  his  post,  in  rear  of  the  baggage  horses. 

The  Captain  and  two  of  his  officers  now  set  off  to  recon 
noitre  the  game.  It  was  the  intention  of  the  Captain,  who  was 
an  admirable  marksman,  to  endeavor  to  crease  the  horse ;  that 
is  to  say,  to  hit  him  with  a  rifle  ball,  in  the  ridge  of  the  neck. 
A  wound  of  this  kind  paralyzes  a  horse  for  a  moment ;  he  falls 
to  the  ground,  and  may  be  secured  before  he  recovers.  It  is,,  a 
cruel  expedient,  however,  for  an  ill-directed  shot  may  kill 
or  maim  the  noble  animal. 

As  the  Captain  and  his  companions  moved  off  laterally  and 
slowly,  in  the  direction  of  the  horse,  we  continued  our  course 
forward;  watching  intently,  however,  the  movements  of  the 
game,  The  horse  moved  quietly  over  the  profile  of  the  rising 


72  A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

ground,  and  disappeared  behind  it.  The  Captain  and  his  party 
were  likewise  soon  hidden  by  an  intervening  hill. 

After  a  time,  the  horse  suddenly  made  his  appearance  to  our 
right,  just  ahead  of  the  line,  emerging  out  of  a  small  valley,  on 
a  brisk  trot ;  having  evidently  taken  the  alarm.  At  sight  of  us 
lie  stopped  short,  gazed  at  us  for  an  instant  with  surprise,  then 
tossing  up  his  head,  trotted  off  in  fine  style,  glancing  at  us  first 
over  one  shoulder,  then  over  the  other,  his  ample  mane  and 
tail  streaming  in  the  wind.  Having  dashed  through  a  skirt  of 
thicket,  that  looked  like  a  hedge-row,  he  paused  in  the  open 
field  beyond,  glanced  back  at  us  again,  with  a  beautiful  bend 
of  the  neck,  snuffed  the  air,  then  tossing  his  head  again,  broke 
into  a  gallop,  and  took  refuge  in  a  wood. 

It  was  the  first  time  I  had  ever  seen  a  horse  scouring  his 
native  wilderness  in  all  the  pride  and  freedom  of  his  nature,. 
How  different  from  the  poor,  mutilated,  harnessed,  checked, 
reined-up  victim  of  luxury,  caprice,  and  avarice,  in  our 
cities ! 

After  travelling  about  fifteen  miles,  we  encamped  about  one 
o'clock,  tnat  our  hunters  might  have  time  to  procure  a  supply 
of  provisions.  Our  encampment  was  in  a  spacious  grove  of 
lofty  oaks  and  walnuts,  free  from  underwood,  on  the  border 
of  a  brook.  While  unloading  the  pack-horses,  our  little 
Frenchman  was  loud  in  his  complaints  at  having  been  pre 
vented  from  pursuing  the  wild  horse,  which  he  would  certainly 
have  taken.  In  the  meantime,  I  saw  our  half-breed,  Beatte, 
quietly  saddle  his  best  horse,  a  powerful  steed  of  half -savage 
race,  hang  a  lariat  at  the  saddle-bow,  take  a  rifle  and  forked 
stick  in  hand,  and,  mounting,  depart  from  the  camp  without 
saying  a  word.  It  was  evident  he  was  going  off  in  quest  of  the 
wild  horse,  but  was  disposed  to  hunt  alone. 


CHAPTER  XX. 
THE  CAMP  OF  THE  WILD  HORSE. 

HUNTERS'  STORIES. — HABITS  OF  THE  WILD  HORSE. — THE  HALF- 
BREED  AND  HIS  PRIZE.— A  HORSE  CHASE.— A  WILD  SPIRIT  TAMED, 

WE   had   encamped  in  a  good  neighborhood  for  game,  as 
the  reports  of  rifles  in  various  directions  speedily  gave  notice. 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAlldKS.  73 

One  of  our  hunters  soon  retur:  3d  with  the  i  .eat  of  a  doc,  tied 
jp  in  the  skin,  and  slung  across  hi  j  shou"  lers.  Ai  Lher 
Drought  a  fat  buck  across  his  horse.  Two  other  deer  were 
Drought  in,  and  a  numbe:/  of  turkeys.  All  the  game  was 
thrown  down  in  front  of  Iho  Captain's  fire,  to  be  i  ortioncl  out 
among  the  various  messes.  The  spits  and  camp  kettles  were 
scon  in  full  employ,  and  throughout  the  evening  there  \  ^s  a 
scene  of  hunters'  feasting  and  profusion. 

We  had  been  disappointed  tLis  day  in  our  hopes  of  meeting 
with  buffalo,  but  the  sight  of  the  wild  horse  had  been  a  great 
novelty,  and  gave  a  turn  to  the  conversation  of  the  camp  for 
the  evening.  There  were  several  anecdotes  told  of  a  famous 
gray  horse,  which  has  ranged  the  prairies  of  this  neighborhood 
for  six  or  seven  years,  setting  at  naught  every  attempt  of  the 
hunters  to  capture  him.  They  say  he  can  paco  and  rack  (or 
amble)  faster  than  the  fleetest  horses  can  run.  Equally  mar 
vellous  accounts  were  given  of  a  black  horse  on  the  Brazos, 
who  grazed  the  prairies  on  that  river's  banks  in  Texas.  For 
years  he  outstripped  all  pursuit.  His  famo  spread  far  and 
wide ;  offers  were  made  for  him  to  the  amount  of  a  thousand 
dollars;  the  boldest  and  most  hard-riding  hunters  tried  in 
cessantly  to  make  prize  of  him,  but  in  vain.  At  length  he 
C?ll  a  victim  to  his  gallantry,  being  decoyed  under  a  tree  by 
a  tame  mare,  and  a  noose  dropped  over  his  head  by  a  boy 
perched  among  the  branches. 

The  capture  of  a  wild  horse  is  one  of  the  most  favorite 
achievements  of  the  prairie  tribes ;  and,  indeed,  it  is  from  this 
source  that  the  Indian  hunters  chiefly  supply  themselves. 
The  wild  horses  which  range  those  vast  grassy  plains,  extend 
ing  from  the  Arkansas  to  the  Spanish  settlements,  are  of 
Various  forms  and  colors,  betraying  their  various  descents. 
Some  resemble  the  common  English  stock,  and  are  probably 
descended  from  horses  which  have  escaped  from  our  border 
settlements.  Others  are  of  a  low  but  strong  make,  and  are 
supposed  to  be  of  the  Andalusian  breed,  brought  out  by  the 
Spanish  discoverers. 

Some  fanciful  speculatists  Lave  seen  in  them  descendants  of 
the  Arat  stock,  brought  into  Spain  from  Africa,  and  thence 
transferred  to  this  country ;  and  have  pleased  themselves  with 
the  idea,  that  their  sires  may  have  been  of  the  pure  coursers  of 
the  desert,  that  once  bore  Mahomet  and  his  warlike  disciples 
across  the  sandy  plains  of  Arabia. 

The  habits  of  the  Arab  seein  to  have  come  with  the  steed. 


74  A    TOUR   ON  THE  PltAlWES. 

The  introduction  of  the  horse  on  the  boundless  prairies  of  the 
FarWejt,  changed  the  whole  mode  of  living -of  their  inhabi 
tants.  It  gave  them  that  facility  of  rapid  motion,  and  of  sud 
den  and  distant  change  of  place,  so  dear  to  the  roving  propen 
sities  of  man.  Instead  of  lurking  in  the  depths  of  gloomy 
forests,  and  patiently  threading  the  mazes  of  a  tangled  wilder 
ness  on  foot,  like  his  brethren  of  the  north,  the  Indian  of  the 
West  is  a  rover  of  tiie  plain;  he  leads  a  brighter  and  more 
sunshiny  life;  almost  always  on  horseback,  on  vast  flowery 
prairies  and  under  cloudless  skies. 

I  was  lying  by  the  Captain's  fire,  late  in  the  evening,  lis 
tening  to  stories  about  those  coursers  of  the  prairies,  and 
weaving  speculations  of  my  own,  when  there  was  a  clamor  of 
voices  and  a  loud  cheering  at  the  other  end  of  the  camp ;  and 
word  was  passed  that  Beatte,  the  half-breed,  had  brought  in  a 
wild  horse. 

In  an  instant  every  fire  was  deserted ;  the  whole  camp 
crowded  to  see  the  Indian  and  his  prize.  It  was  a  colt  about 
two  years  old,  well  grown,  finely  limbed,  with  bright  promi 
nent  eyes,  and  a  spirited  yet  gentle  demeanor.  He  gazed 
about  him  with  an  air  of  mingled  stupefaction  and  surprise, 
at  the  men,  the  horses,  and  the  camp-fires;  while  the  Indian 
stood  before  him  with  folded  arms,  having  hold  of  the  other 
end  of  the  cord  which  noosed  his  captive,  and  gazing  on  him 
with  a  most  imperturbable  aspect.  Beatte,  as  I  have  before 
observed,  has  a  greenish  olive  complexion,  with  a  strongly 
marked  countenance,  not  unlike  the  bronze  casts  of  Napoleon ; 
and  as  he  stood  before  his  captive  horse,  with  folded  arms  and 
fixed  aspect,  he  looked  more  like  a  statue  than  a  man. 

If  the  horse,  however,  manifested  the  least  restiveness, 
Beatte  would  immediately  worry  him  with  the  lariat,  jerking 
him  first  on  one  side,  then  on  the  other,  so  as  almost  to  throw 
him  on  the  ground ;  when  he  had  thus  rendered  him  passive, 
he  would  resume  his  statue-like  attitude  and  gaze  at  him  in 
silence. 

The  whole  scene  was  singularly  wild;  the  tall  grove,  par 
tially  illumined  by  the  flashing  fires  of  the  camp,  the  horses 
tethered  here  and  there  among  the  trees,  the  carcasses  of  deer 
hanging  around,  and  in  the  midst  of  all,  the  wild  huntsman 
and  his  wild  horse,  with  an  admiring  throng  of  rangers, 
almost  as  wild. 

In  the  eagerness  of  their  excitement,  several  of  the  young' 
rangers  sought  to  get  the  horso  by  purchase  or  barter,  and 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PR/ IRIES.  75 

even  offered  extravagant  terms ;  but  Beatte  declined  all  their 
offers.  "You  give  great  price  now;"  said  he,  "to-morrow  you 
be  sorry,  and  take  back,  and  say  d — d  Indian !" 

The  young  men  importuned  him  with  questions  about  the 
mode  in  which  he  took  the  horse,  but  his  answers  were  dry 
and  laconic ;  he  evidently  retained  some  pique  at  having  been 
undervalued  and  sneered  at  by  them ;  and  at  the  same  time 
looked  down  upon  them  with  contempt  as  greenhorns,  little 
versed  in  the  noble  science  of  woodcraft. 

Afterward,  however,  when  he  was  seated  by  our  fire,  I  read 
ily  drew  from  him  an  account  of  his  exploit;  for,  though 
taciturn  among  strangers,  and  little  prone  to  boast  of  his 
actions,  yet  -his  taciturnity,  like  that  of  all  Indians,  had  its 
times  of  relaxation. 

He  informed  me,  that  on  leaving  the  camp,  he  had  returned 
to  the  place  where  we  had  lost  sight  of  the  wild  horse.  Soon 
getting  upon  its  track,  he  followed  it  to  the  banks  of  the  river. 
Here,  the  prints  being  more  distinct  in  the  sand,  he  perceived 
that  one  of  the  hoofs  was  broken  and  defective,  so  he  gave  up 
the  pursuit. 

As  he  was  returning  to  the  camp,  he  came  upon  a  gang  of 
six  horses,  which  immediately  made  for  the  river.  He  pur 
sued  them  across  the  stream,  left  his  rifle  on  the  river  bank, 
and  putting  his  horse  to  full  speed,  soon  came  up  with  the 
fugitives.  He  attempted  to  noose  one  of  them,  but  the  lariat 
hitched  on  one  of  his  ears,  and  he  shook  it  off.  The  horses 
dashed  up  a  hill,  he  followed  hard  at  their  heels,  when,  of  a 
sudden,  he  saw  their  tails  whisking  in  the  air,  and  they 
plunging  down  a  precipice.  It  was  too  late  to  stop.  He  shut 
his  eyes,  held  in  his  breath,  and  went  over  with  them— neck 
or  nothing.  The  descent  was  between  twenty  and  thirty  feet, 
but  they  all  came  down  safe  upon  a  sandy  bottom, 

He  now  succeeded  in  throwing  his  noose  round  a  fine  young 
horse.  As  he  galloped  alongside  of  him,  the  two  horses  passed 
each  side  of  a  sapling,  and  the  end  of  the  lariat  was  jerked  out 
of  his  hand.  He  regained  it,  but  an  intervening  tree  obliged 
him  again  to  let  it  go.  Having  once  more  caught  it,  and  com 
ing  to  a  more  open  country,  he  was  enabled  to  play  the  young 
horse  with  the  line  until  he  gradually  checked  and  subdued 
him,  so  as  to  lead  him  to  the  place  where  he  had  left  his  rifle. 

He  had  another  formidable  difficulty  in  getting  him  across 
the  river,  where  both  horses  stuck  for  a  time  in  the  mire,  and 
Beatte  was  nearly  unseated  from  his  saddle  by  the  force  of  the 


76  A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIEJ. 

current  and  the  struggles  of  his  captive.  L  ^  much  toil  and 
trouble,  however,  he  got  across  the  stream,  and  brought  his 
prize  safe  into  camp. 

For  the  remainder  of  the  evening,  the  camp  remained  in  a 
high  state  of  excitement ;  nothing  was  talked  of  but  the  cap 
ture  of  wild  horses ;  every  youngster  of  the  troop  was  for  this 
harum-scarum  kind  of  chase ;  every  one  promised  himself  to 
return  from  the  campaign  in  triumph,  bestriding  one  of  these 
wild  coursers  of  the  prairies.  Beatte  had  suddenly  risen  to 
great  importance ;  he  was  the  prime  hunter,  the  hero  of  the 
day.  Offers  were  made  him  by  the  best  mounted  rangers, 
to  let  him  ride  their  horses  in  the  chase,  provided  he  would 
give  them  a  share  of  the  spoil.  Beatte  bore  his  honors  in 
silence,  and  closed  with  none  of  the  offers.  Our  stammering, 
chattering,  gasconading  little  Frenchman,  however,  made  up 
for  his  taciturnity,  by  vaunting  as  much  upon  the  subject  as 
if  it  were  he  that  had  caught  the  horse.  Indeed  he  held  forth 
so  learnedly  in  the  matter,  and  boasted  so  much  of  the  many 
horses  he  had  taken,  that  he  began  to  be  considered  an  oracle ; 
and  some  of  the  youngsters  were  inclined  to  doubt  whether  he 
were  not  superior  even  to  the  taciturn  Beatte. 

The  excitement  kept  the  camp  awake  later  than  usual.  The 
hum  of  voices,  interrupted  by  occasional  peals  of  laughter,  was 
heard  from  the  groups  around  the  various  fires,  and  the  night 
was  considerably  advanced  before  all  had  sunk  to  sleep. 

With  the  morning  dawn  the  excitement  revived,  and  Beatte 
and  his  wild  horse  were  again  the  gaze  and  talk  of  the  camp. 
The  captive  had  been  tied  all  night  to  a  tree  among  the  other 
horses.  He  was  again  led  forth  by  Beatte,  by  a  long  halter  or 
lariat,  and,  on  his  manifesting  the  least  restiveness,  was,  as 
before,  jerked  and  worried  into  passive  submission.  He  ap 
peared  to  be  gentle  and  docile  by  nature,  and  had  a  beautifully 
mild,  expression  of  the  eye.  In  his  strange  and  forlorn  situa 
tion,  the  poor  animal  seemed  to  seek  protection  and  companion 
ship  in  the  very  horse  which  had  aided  to  capture  him. 

Seeing  him  thus  gentle  and  tractable,  Beatte,  just  as  we  were 
about  to  march,  strapped  a  light  pack  upon  his  back,  by  way 
of  giving  him  the  first  lesson  in  servitude.  The  native  pride 
and  independence  of  the  animal  took  fire  at  this  indignity. 
He  reared,  and  plunged,  and  kicked,  and  tried  in  every  way  to 
get  rid  of  the  degrading  burden.  The  Indian  was  too  potent 
for  him.  At  every  paroxysm  he  renewed  the  discipline  of  the 
halter,  until  -the  poor  animal,  driven  to  despair,  threw  himself 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  77 

prostrate  on  the  ground,  and  lay  motionless,  as  if  acknowl 
edging  himself  vanquished.  A  stage  hero,  representing  the 
despair  of  a  captive  prince,  could  not  have  played  his  part 
more  dramatically.  There  was  absolutely  a  moral  grandeur 
in  it. 

The  imperturbable  Beatte  folded  his  arms,  and  stood  for  a 
time,  looking  down  in  silence  upon  his  captive;  until  seeing 
him  perfectly  subdued,  he  nodded  his  head  slowly,  screwed  his 
mouth  into  a  sardonic  smile  of  triumph,  and,  with  a  jerk  of 
the  halter,  ordered  him  to  rise.  He  obeyed,  and  from  that 
time  forward  offered  no  resistance.  During  that  day  he  bore 
his  pack  patiently,  and  was  led  by  the  halter ;  but  in  two  days 
he  followed  voluntarily  at  large  among  the  supernumerary 
horses  of  the  troop. 

I  could  not  look  without  compassion  upon  this  fine  young 
animal,  whose  whole  course  of  existence  had  been  so  suddenly 
reversed.  From  being  a  denizen  of  these  vast  pastures,  rang 
ing  at  will  from  plain  to  plain  and  mead  to  mead,  cropping  of 
every  herb  and  flower,  and  drinking  of  every  stream,  he  was 
suddenly  reduced  to  perpetual  and  painful  servitude,  to  pass 
his  life  under  the  harness  and  the  curb,  amid,  perhaps,  the  din 
and  dust  and  drudgery  of  cities.  The  transition  in  his  lot  was 
such  as  sometimes  takes  place  in  human  affairs,  and  in  the  for 
tunes  of  towering  individuals : — one  day,  a  prince  of  the  prai 
ries—the  next  day,  a  pack-horse ! 


CHAPTEE  XXI. 

THE  FORDING  OF  THE  RED  FORK. — THE  DREARY  FORESTS  OF  THE 
"CROSS  TIMBER." — BUFFALO! 

WE  left  the  camp  of  the  wild  horse  about  a  quarter  before 
eight,  and,  after  steering  nearly  south  for  three  or  four  miles, 
arrived  on  the  banks  of  the  Red  Fork,  about  seventy-five 
miles,  as  we  supposed,  above  its  mouth.  The  river  was  about 
three  hundred  yards  wide,  wandering  among  sand-bars  and 
shoals.  Its  shores,  and  the  long  sandy  banks  that  stretched 
out  into  the  stream,  were  printed,  as  usual,  with  the  traces  of 
various  animals  that  had  come  down  to  cross  it,  or  to  drink  its 
waters. 


78  A   TO  UK   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

Here  we  came  to  a  halt,  and  there  was  much  consultation 
about  the  possibility  of  fording  the  river  with  safety,  as  there 
was  an  apprehension  of  quicksands.  Beatte,  who  had  been 
somewhat  in  the  rear,  came  up  while  we  were  debating.  He 
was  mounted  on  his  horse  of  the  half -wild  breed,  and  leading 
his  captive  by  the  bridle.  He  gave  the  latter  in  charge  to  To- 
nish,  and  without  saying  a  word,  urged  his  horse  into  the 
stream,  and  crossed  it  in  safety.  Every  thing  was  done  by  this 
man  in  a  similar  way,  promptly,  resolutely,  and  silently,  with 
out  a  previous  promise  or  an  after  vaunt. 

The  troop  now  followed  the  lead  of  Beatte,  and  reached  the 
opposite  shore  without  any  mishap,  though  one  of  the  pack- 
horses  wandering  a  little  from  the  track,  came  near  being 
swallowed  up  in  a  quicksand,  and  was  with  difficulty  dragged 
to  land. 

After  crossing  the  river,  we  had  to  force  our  way,  for  nearly 
a  mile,  through  a  thick  canebrake,  which,  at  first  sight,  ap 
peared  an  impervious  mass  of  reeds  and  brambles.  It  was  a 
hard  struggle ;  our  horses  were  often  to  the  saddle-girths  in 
mire  and  water,  and  both  horse  and  horseman  harassed  and 
torn  by  bush  and  brier.  Falling,  however,  upon  a  buffalo 
track,  we  at  length  extricated  ourselves  from  this  morass,  and 
ascended  a  ridge  of  land,  where  we  beheld  a  beautiful  open 
country  before  us ;  while  to  our  right,  the  belt  of  forest  land, 
called  "The  Cross  Timber,"  continued  stretching  away  to  the 
southward,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  We  soon  abandoned 
the  open  country,  and  struck  into  the  forest  land.  It  was  the 
intention  of  the  Captain  to  keep  on  southwest  by  south,  and 
traverse  the  Cross  Timber  diagonally,  so  as  to  come  out  upon 
the  edge  of  the  great  western  prairie.  By  thus  maintaining 
something  of  a  southerly  direction,  he  trusted,  while  he  crossed 
the  belt  of  the  forest,  he  would  at  the  same  time  approach  the 
Red  River. 

The  plan  of  the  Captain  was  judicious;  but  he  erred  from 
not  being  informed  of  the  nature  of  the  country.  Had  he 
kept  directly  west,  a  couple  of  days  would  have  carried  us 
through  the  forest  land,  and  we  might  then  have  had  an  easy 
course  along  the  skirts  of  the  upper  prairies,  to  Red  River ;  by 
going  diagonally,  we  were  kept  for  many  weary  days  toiling 
through  a  dismal  series  of  rugged  forests. 

The  Cross  Timber  is  about  forty  miles  in  breadth,  and 
stretches  over  a  rough  country  of  rolling  hills,  covered  with 
scattered  tracts  of  post-oak  and  black-jack ;  with  some  inter- 


A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  79 

vening  valleys,  which,  at  proper  seasons,  would  afford  good 
pasturage.  It  is  very  much  cut  up  by  deep  ravines,  which,  in 
the  rainy  seasons,  are  the  beds  of  temporary  streams,  tribu 
tary  to  the  main  rivers,  and  these  are  called  "  branches."  The 
whole  tract  may  present  a  pleasant  aspect  in  the  fresh  time  of 
the  year,  when  the  ground  is  covered  with  herbage ;  when  the 
trees  are  in  their  green  leaf,  and  the  glens  are  enlivened  by 
running  streams.  Unfortunately,  we  entered  it  too  late  in  the 
season.  The  herbage  was  parched ;  the  foliage  of  the  scrubby 
forests  was  withered ;  the  whole  woodland  prospect,  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  had  a  brown  and  arid  hue.  The  fires 
made  on  the  prairies  "by  the  Indian  hunters,  had  frequently 
penetrated  these  forests,  sweeping  in  light  transient  flames 
along  the  dry  grass,  scorching  and  calcining  the  lower  twigs 
and  branches  of  the  trees,  and  leaving  them  black  and  hard,  so 
as  to  tear  the  flesh  of  man  and  horse  that  had  to  scramble 
through  them.  I  shall*  not  easily  forget  the  mortal  toil,  and 
the  vexations  of  flesh  and  spirit,  that  we  underwent  occasion 
ally,  in  our  wanderings  through  the  Cross  Timber.  It  was 
like  struggling  through  forests  of  cast  iron. 

After  a  tedious  ride  of  several  miles,  we  came  out  upon  an 
open  tract  of  hill  and  dale,  interspersed  with  woodland.  Here 
we  were  roused  by  the  cry  of  buffalo!  buffalo!  The  effect  was 
something  like  that  of  the  cry  of  a  sail !  a  sail !  at  sea.  It  was 
not  a  false  alarm.  Three  or  four  of  those  enormous  animals 
were  visible  to  our  sight  grazing  on  the  slope  of  a  distant  hill. 

There  was  a  general  movement  to  set  off  in  pursuit,  and 
it  was  with  some  difficulty  that  the  vivacity  of  the  younger 
men  of  the  troop  could  be  restrained.  Leaving  orders  that 
the  line  of  march  should  be  preserved,  the  Captain  and  two 
of  his  officers  departed  at  quiet  a  pace,  accompanied  by  Beatte, 
and  by  the  ever-forward  Tonish ;  for  it  was  impossible  any 
longer  to  keep  the  little  Frenchman  in  check,  being  half  crazy 
to  prove  his  skill  and  prowess  in  hunting  the  buffalo. 

The  intervening  hills  soon  hid.  from  us  both  the  game  and 
the  huntsmen.  We  kept  on  our  course  in  quest  of  a  camp 
ing  place,  which  was  difficult  to  be  found;  almost  all  the 
channels  of  the  streams  being  dry,  and  the  country  being  des 
titute  of  fountain  heads. 

After  proceeding  some  distance,  there  was  again  a  cry  of 
buffalo,  and  two  were  pointed  out  on  a  hill  to  the  left.  The 
Captain  being  absent,  it  was  no  longer  possible  to  restrain  the 
ardor  of  the  young  hunters.  Away  several  of  them  dashed, 


80  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

f ull  speed,  and  soon  disappeared  among  the  ravines ;  the  rest 
kept  on,  anxious  to  find  a  proper  place  for  encampment. 

Indeed  we  now  began  to  experience  the  disadvantages  of  the 
season.  The  pasturage  of  the  prairies  was  scanty  and  parched ; 
the  pea- vines  which  grew  in  the  woody  bottoms  were  withered, 
and  most  of  the  ' '  branches"  or  streams  were  dried  up.  While 
wandering  in  this  perplexity,  we  were  overtaken  by  the  Cap 
tain  and  all  his  party,  except  Tonish.  They  had  pursued  the 
buffalo  for  some  distance  without  getting  within  shot,  and  had 
given  up  the  chase,  being  fearful  of  fatiguing  their  horses,  or 
being  led  off  too  far  from  camp.  The  little  Frenchman,  how 
ever,  had  galloped  after  them  at  headlong  speed,  and  the 
last  they  saw  of  him,  he  was  engaged,  as  it  were,  yard-arm 
and  yard-arm,  with  a  great  buffalo  bull,  firing  broadsides  into 
him.  tkl  tink  dat  little  man  crazy — somehow,"  observed 
Beatte,  dryly. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

THE    ALARM    CAMP. 

WE  now  came  to  a  halt,  and  had  to  content  ourselves  with 
an  indifferent  encampment.  It  was  in  a  grove  of  scruboaks, 
on  the  borders  of  a  deep  ravine,  at  the  bottom  of  which  were 
a  few  scanty  pools  of  water.  We  were  just  at  the  foot  of 
a  gradually-sloping  hill,  covered  with  half-withered  grass,  that 
afforded  meagre  pasturage.  In  the  spot  where  we  had  en 
camped,  the  grass  was  high  and  parched.  The  view  around  us 
was  circumscribed  and  much  shut  in  by  gently  swelling  hills. 

Just  as  we  were  encamping,  Tonish  arrived,  all  glorious, 
from  his  hunting  match ;  his  white  horse  hung  all  round  with 
buffalo  meat.  According  to  his  own  account,  he  had  laid  low 
two  mighty  bulls.  As  usual,  we  deducted  one  half  from  his 
boastings;  but,  now  that  he  had  something  real  to  vaunt 
about,  there  was  no  restraining  the  valor  of  his  tongue. 

After  having  in  some  measure  appeased  his  vanity  by  boast 
ing  of  his  exploit,  he  informed  us  that  he  had  observed  the 
fresh  track  of  horses,  which,  from  various  circumstances,  he 
suspected  to  have  been  made  by  some  roving  band  of  Pawnees. 
This  caused  some  little  uneasiness.  The  young  men  who 
had  left  the  line  of  march  in  pursuit  of  the  two  buffaloes,  had 


A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  81 

not  yet  rejoined  us ;  apprehensions  were  expressed  that  they 
might  be  waylaid  and  attacked.  Our  veteran  hunter,  old 
Eyan,  also,  immediately  on  our  halting  to  encamp,  had  gone 
off  on  foot,  in  company  with  a  young  disciple.  "  Dat  old  man 
will  have  his  brains  knocked  out  by  de  Pawnees  yet,"  said 
Beatte.  "He  tink  he  know  every  ting,  but  he  don't  know 
Pawnees,  anyhow." 

Taking  his  rifle,  the  Captain  repaired  on  foot  to  reconnoitre 
the  country  from  the  naked  summit  of  one  of  the  neighbor 
ing  hills.  In  the  meantime,  the  horses  were  hobbled  and 
turned  loose  to  graze ;  and  wood  was  cut,  and  fires  made,  to 
prepare  the  evening's  repast. 

Suddenly  there  was  an  alarm  of  fire  in  the  camp !  The  flame 
from  one  of  the  kindling  fires  had  caught  to  the  tall  dry  grass; 
a  breeze  was  blowing ;  there  was  danger  that  the  camp  would 
soon  be  wrapped  in  a  light  blaze.  "  Look  to  the  horses !"  cried 
one;  "Drag  away  the  baggage !"  cried  another.  "Take  care 
of  the  rifles  and  powder-horns !"  cried  a  third.  All  was  hurry- 
scurry  and  uproar.  The  horses  dashed  wildly  about;  some 
of  the  men  snatched  away  rifles  and  powder-horns,  others 
dragged  off  saddles  and  saddle-bags.  Meantime,  no  one 
thought  of  quelling  the  fire,  nor  indeed  knew  how  to  quell  it. 
Beaote,  however,  and  his  comrades  attacked  it  in  the  Indian 
mode,  beating  down  the  edges  of  the  fire  with  blankets  and 
horse-cloths,  and  endeavoring  to  prevent  its  spreading  among 
the  grass ;  the  rangers  followed  their  example,  and  in  a  little 
while  the  flames  were  happily  quelled. 

The  fires  were  now  properly  kindled  on  places  from  which 
the  dry  grass  had  been  cleaned  away.  The  horses  were  scat 
tered  about  a  small  valley,  and  on  the  sloping  hill -side,  crop 
ping  the  scanty  herbage.  Tonish  was  preparing  a  sumptuous 
evening's  meal  from  his  buffalo  meat,  promising  us  a  rich  soup 
and  a  prime  piece  of  roast  beef :  but  we  were  doomed  to  ex 
perience  another  and  more  serious  alarm. 

There  was  an  indistinct  cry  from  some  rangers  on  the  sum 
mit  of  the  hill,  of  which  we  could  only  distinguish  the  words, 
"  The  horses !  the  horses !  get  in  the  horses !" 

Immediately  a  clamor  of  voices  arose ;  shouts,  inquiries,  re 
plies,  were  all  mingled  together,  so  that  nothing  could  be 
clearly  understood,  and  every  one  drew  his  own  inference. 

"  The  Captain  has  started  buffaloes,"  cried  one,  "and  wants 
horses  for  the  chase."  Immediately  a  number  of  rangers 
seized  their  rifles,  and  scampered  for  the  hill-top.  ' '  The  prai- 


82  ^    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

rie  is  on  fire  beyond  the  hill,"  cried  another;  "I  see  the 
smoke— the  Captain  means  we  shall  drive  the  horses  beyond 
the  brook." 

By  this  time  a  ranger  from  the  hill  had  reached  the  skirts  of 
the  camp.  He  was  almost  breathless,  and  could  only  say  that 
the  Captain  had  seen  Indians  at  a  distance. 

"Pawnees!  Pawnees!"  was  now  the  cry  among  our  wild- 
headed  youngsters.  "  Drive  the  horses  into  camp !"  cried  one. 
"  Saddle  the  horses  1"  cried  another.  "  Form  the  line !"  cried  a 
third.  There  was  now  a  scene  of  clamor  and  confusion  that 
baffles  all  description.  The  rangers  were  scampering  about 
the  adjacent  field  in  pursuit  of  their  horses.  One  might  be 
seen  tugging  his  steed  along  by  a  halter ;  another  without  a 
hat,  riding  bare-backed;  another  driving  a  hobbled  horse  be 
fore  him,  that  made  awkward  leaps  like  a  kangaroo. 

The  alarm  increased.  Word  was  brought  from  the  lower 
end  of  the  camp  that  there  was  a  band  of  Pawnees  in  a  neigh 
boring  valley.  They  had  shot  old  Ryan,  through  the  head,  and 
were  chasing  his  companion !  ' '  No,  it  was  not  old  Eyan  that 
was  killed — it  was  one  of  the  hunters  that  had  been  after  the 
two  buffaloes."  "  There  are  three  hundred  Pawnees  just  be 
yond  the  hill,"  cried  one  voice.  "  More,  more !"  cried  another. 

Our  situation,  shut  in  among  hills,  prevented  our  seeing  to 
any  distance,  and  left  us  a  prey  to  all  these  rumors.  A  cruel 
enemy  was  supposed  to  be  at  hand,  and  an  immediate  attack 
apprehended.  The  horses  by  this  time  were  driven  into  the 
camp,  and  were  dashing  about  among  the  fires,  and  trampling 
upon  the  baggage.  Every  one  endeavored  to  prepare  for 
action ;  but  here  was  the  perplexity.  During  the  late  alarm  of 
fire,  the  saddles,  bridles,  rifles,  powder-horns,  and  other  equip 
ments,  had  been  snatched  out  of  their  places,  and  thrown 
helter-skelter  among  the  trees. 

<l  Where  is  my  saddle?"  cried  one.  "  Has  any  one  seen  my 
rifle?"  cried  another.  "Who  will  lend  me  a  ball?"  cried  a 
third,  who  was  loading  his  piece.  "I  have  lost  my  bullet 
pouch."  "  For  God's  sake  help  me  to  girth  this  horse!"  cried 
another:  "  he's  so  restive  I  can  do  nothing  with  him."  In  his 
hurry  and  worry,  he  had  put  on  the  saddle  the  hind  part  be 
fore! 

Some  affected  to  swagger  and  talk  bold ;  others  said  nothing, 
but  went  on  steadily,  preparing  their  horses  and  weapons,  and 
on  these  I  felt  the  most  reliance.  Some  were  evidently  excited 
and  elated  with  the  idea  of  an  encounter  with  Indians ;  and 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  83 

none  more  so  than  my  young  Swiss  fellow-traveller,  who  had  a 
passion  for  wild  adventure.  Our  man,  Beatte,  led  his  horses 
in  the  rear  of  the  camp,  placed  his  rifle  against  a  tree,  then 
seated  himself  by  the  fire  in  perfect  silence.  On  the  other 
hand,  little  Tonnish,  who  was  busy  cooking,  stopped  every 
moment  from  his  work  to  play  the  fanfaron,  singing,  swear 
ing,  and  affecting  an  unusual  hilarity,  which  made  me  strong 
ly  suspect  there  was  some  little  fright  at  bottom,  to  cause  all 
this  effervescence. 

About  a  dozen  of  the  rangers,  as  soon  as  they  could  saddle 
their  horses,  dashed  off  in  the  direction  in  which  the  Pawnees 
were  said  to  have  attacked  the  hunters.  It  was  now  deter 
mined,  in  case  our  camp  should  be  assailed,  to  put  our  horses 
in  the  ravine  in  the  rear,  where  they  would  be  out  of  danger 
from  arrow  or  rifle-ball,  and  to  take  our  stand  within  the  edge 
of  the  ravine.  This  would  serve  as  a  trench,  and  the  trees  and 
thickets  with  which  it  was  bordered,  would  be  sufficient  to 
turn  aside  any  shaft  of  the  enemy.  The  Pawnees,  besides,  are 
wary  of  attacking  any  covert  of  the  kind ;  their  warfare,  as  I 
have  already  observed,  lies  in  the  open  prairie,  where,  mounted 
upon  their  fleet  horses,  they  can  swoop  like  hawks  upon  their 
enemy,  or  wheel  about  him  and  discharge  their  arrows.  Still 
I  could  not  but  perceive,  that,  in  case  of  being  attacked  by 
such  a  number  of  these  wTell-mounted  and  war-like  savages  as 
were  said  to  be  at  hand,  we  should  be  exposed  to  considerable 
risk  from  the  inexperience  and  want  of  discipline  of  our  newly 
raised  rangers,  and  from  the  very  courage  of  many  of  the 
younger  ones  who  seemed  bent  on  adventure  and  exploit. 

By  this  time  the  Captain  reached  the  camp,  and  every  one 
crowded  round  him  for  information.  He  informed  us,  that 
he  had  proceeded  some  distance  on  his  reconnoitring  expedi 
tion,  and  was  slowly  returning  toward  the  camp,  along  the 
brow  of  a  naked  hill,  when  he  saw  something  on  the  edge  of  a 
parallel  hill,  that  looked  like  a  man.  He  paused  and  watched 
it ;  but  it  remained  so  perfectly  motionless,  that  he  supposed  it 
a  bush,  or  the  top  of  some  tree  beyond  the  hill.  He  resumed 
his  course,  when  it  likewise  began  to  move  in  a  parallel  direc 
tion.  Another  form  now  rose  beside  it,  of  some  one  who  had 
either  been  lying  down,  or  had  just  ascended  the  other  side  of 
the  hill.  The  Captain  stopped  and  regarded  them ;  they  like 
wise  stopped.  He  then  lay  down  upon  the  grass,  and  they 
began  to  walk.  On  his  rising,  they  again  stopped,  as  if  watch 
ing  him.  Knowing  that  the  Indians  are  apt  to  have  their  spies 


84  ^    TOUR   Oi\   THE  PRAIR1KS. 

and  sentinels  thus  posted  on  the  summit  of  naked  hills,  com« 
manding  extensive  prospects,  his  doubts  were  increased  by  the 
suspicious  movements  of  these  men.  He  now  put  his  foraging 
cap  on  the  end  of  his  rifle,  and  waved  it  in  the  air.  They  took  no 
notice  of  the  signal.  He  then  walked  on,  until  he  entered  the 
edge  of  a  wood,  which  concealed  him  from  their  view.  Stop 
ping  out  of  sight  for  a  moment,  he  again  looked  forth,  when 
he  saw  the  two  men  passing  swiftly  forward.  As  the  hill  on 
which  they  were  walking  made  a  curve  toward  that  on  which 
he  stood,  it  seemed  as  if  they  were  endeavoring  to  head  him 
before  he  should  reach  the  camp.  Doubting  whether  they 
might  not  belong  to  some  large  party  of  Indians,  either  in 
ambush  or  moving  along  the  valley  beyond  the  hill,  the  Cap 
tain  hastened  his  steps  homeward,  and,  descrying  some  rangers 
on  an  eminence  between  him  and  the  camp,  he  called  out  to 
them  to  pass  the  word  to  have  the  horses  driven  in,  as  these 
are  generally  the  first  objects  of  Indian  depredation. 

Such  was  the  origin  of  the  alarm  which  had  thrown  the 
camp  in  commotion.  Some  of  those  who  heard  the  Captain's 
narration,  had  no  doubt  that  the  men  on  the  hill  were  Pawnee 
scouts,  belonging  to  the  band  that  had  waylaid  the  hunters. 
Distant  shots  were  heard  at  intervals,  which  were  supposed  to 
be  fired  by  those  who  had  sallied  out  to  rescue  their  comrades. 
Several  more  rangers,  having  completed  their  equipments, 
now  rode  forth  in  the  direction  of  the  firing;  others  looked 
anxious  and  uneasy. 

"  If  they  are  as  numerous  as  they  are  said  to  be,"  said  one; 
* '  and  as  well  mounted  as  they  generally  are,  we  shall  be  a  bad 
match  for  them  with  our  jaded  horses. " 

"Well,"  replied  the  Captain,  "we  have  a  strong  encamp 
ment,  and  can  stand  a  siege." 

' '  Ay,  but  they  may  set  fire  to  the  prairie  in  the  night,  and 
burn  us  out  of  our  encampment." 

"We  will  then  set  up  a  counter-fire !" 

The  word  was  now  passed  that  a  man  on  horseback  ap 
proached  the  camp. 

"  It  is  one  of  the  hunters !  It  is  Clements !  He  brings  buffalo 
meat  1"  was  announced  by  several  voices  as  the  horseman  drew 
near. 

It  was,  in  fact,  one  of  the  rangers  who  had  set  off  in  the 
morning  in  pursuit  of  the  two  buffaloes.  He  rode  into  the  camp, 
with  the  spoils  of  the  chase  hanging  round  his  horse,  and  fol 
lowed  by  his  companions,  all  sound  and  unharmed,  and  equally 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  85 

well  laden.  They  proceeded  to  give  an  account  of  a  grand 
gallop  they  had  had  after  the  two  buffaloes,  and  how  many 
shots  it  had  cost  them  to  bring  one  to  the  ground. 

"Well,  but  the  Pawnees— the  Pawnees— where  are  the 
Pawnees?" 

"What  Pawnees?" 

"The  Pawnees  that  attacked  you." 

"  No  one  attacked  us." 

"But  have  you  seen  no  Indians  on  your  way?" 

"  Oh  yes,  two  of  us  got  to  the  top  of  a  hill  to  look  out  for  the 
camp,  and  saw  a  fellow  on  an  opposite  hill  cutting  queer  an 
tics,  who  seemed  to  be  an  Indian." 

"Pshaw !  that  was  I !"  said  the  Captain. 

Here  the  bubble  burst.  The  whole  alarm  had  risen  from 
this  mutual  mistake  of  the  Captain  and  the  two  rangers.  As 
to  the  report  of  the  three  hundred  Pawnees  and  their  attack 
on  the  hunters,  it  proved  to  be  a  wanton  fabrication,  of  which 
no  further  notice  was  taken;  though  the  author  deserved  to 
have  been  sought  out,  and  severely  punished. 

There  being  no  longer  any  prospect  of  fighting,  every  one 
now  thought  of  eating ;  and  here  the  stomachs  throughout  the 
camp  were  in  unison.  Tonish  served  up  to  us  hip  promised 
regale  of  buffalo  soup  and  buffalo  beef.  The  soup  was  pep 
pered  most  horribly,  and  the  roast  beef  proved  the  bull  to  have 
been  one  of  the  patriarchs  of  the  prairies ;  never  did  I  have  to 
deal  with  a  tougher  morsel.  However,  it  was  our  first  repast 
on  buffalo  meat,  so  we  ate  it  with  a  lively  faith ;  nor  would  our 
little  Frenchman  allow  us  any  rest,  until  he  had  extorted  from 
us  an  acknowledgment  of  the  excellence  of  his  cookery ;  though 
the  pepper  gave  us  the  lie  in  our  throats. 

The  night  closed  in  without  the  return  of  old  Ryan  and  his 
companion.  We  had  become  accustomed,  however,  to  the 
aberrations  of  this  old  cock  of  the  woods,  and  no  further  solici^ 
tude  was  expressed  on  his  account. 

After  the  fatigues  and  agitations  of  the  day,  the  camp  soon 
sunk  into  a  profound  sleep,  excepting  those  on  guard,  who  were 
more  than  usually  on  the  alert ;  for  the  traces  recently  seen 
of  Pawnees,  and  the  certainty  that  we  were  in  the  midst  of 
their  hunting  grounds,  excited  to  constant  vigilance.  About 
half  past  ten  o'clock  we  were  all  startled  from  sleep  by  a  new 
alarm.  A  sentinel  had  fired  off  his  rifle  and  run  into  camp, 
crying  that  there  were  Indians  at  hand. 

Every  one  was  on  his  legs  in  an  instant.     Some  seized  thek 


86  A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAI1UES 

rifles ;  some  were  about  to  saddle  their  horses ;  some  hastened 
to  the  Captain's  lodge,  but  were  ordered  back  to  their  respec 
tive  fires.  The  sentinel  was  examined.  He  declared  he  had 
seen  an  Indian  approach,  crawling  along  the  ground ;  where 
upon  he  had  fired  upon  him,  and  run  into  camp.  The  Cap 
tain  gave  it  as  his  opinion,  that  the  supposed  Indian  was  a 
wolf ;  he  reprimanded  the  sentinel  for  deserting  his  post,  and 
obliged  him  to  return  to  it.  Many  seemed  inclined  to  give 
credit  to  the  story  of  the  centinel ;  for  the  events  of  the  day 
had  predisposed  them  to  apprehend  lurking  foes  and  sudden 
assaults  during  the  darkness  of  the  night  For  a  long  time 
they  sat  round  their  fires,  with  rifle  in  hand,  carrying  on  low, 
murmuring  conversations,  and  listening  for  some  new  alarm. 
Nothing  further,  however,  occurred ;  the  voices  gradually  died 
away ;  the  gossipers  nodded  and  dozed,  and  sunk  to  rest ;  and, 
by  degrees,  tilence  and  sleep  once  more  stole  over  the  camp. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

BEAVER  DAM.  BUFFALO  AND  HORSE  TRACKS,  —  A  PAWNEE 
TRAIL.  — WILD  HORSES.— THE  YOUNG  HUNTER  AND  THE  BEAR. 
— CHANGE  OF  ROUTE. 

ON  mustering  our  forces  in  the  morning  (October  20d),  old 
Ryan  and  his  comrade  were  still  missing ;  but  the  Captain  had 
such  perfect  reliance  on  the  skill  and  resources  of  the  veteran 
woodsman,  that  he  did  not  think  it  necessary  to  take  any 
measures  with  respect  to  him. 

Our  march  this  day  lay  through  the  same  kind  of  rough 
rolling  country ;  checkered  by  brown  dreary  forests  of  post- 
oak,  and  cut  up  by  deep  dry  ravines.  The  distant  fires  were 
evidently  increasing  on  the  prairies.  The  wind  had  been  at 
northwest  for  several  days ;  and  the  atmosphere  had  become 
so  smoky,  as  in  the  height  of  Indian  summer,  that  it  was  diffi 
cult  to  distinguish  objects  at  any  distance. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning,  we  crossed  a  deep  stream  with 
a  complete  beaver  dam,  above  three  feet  high,  making  a  large 
pond,  and  doubtless  containing  several  families  of  that  indus 
trious  animal,  though  not  one  showed  his  nose  above  water. 
The  Captain  would  not  permit  this  amphibious  commonwealth 
to  be  disturbed. 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  87 

We  were  now  continually  coming  upon  the  tracks  of  buf 
faloes  and  wild  horses ;  those  of  the  former  tended  invariably 
to  the  south,  as  we  could  perceive  by  the  direction  of  the  tram 
pled  grass.  It  was  evident  we  were  on  the  great  highway  of 
these  migratory  herds,  but  that  they  had  chiefly  passed  to  the 
southward. 

Beatte,  who  generally  kept  a  parallel  course  several  hundred 
yards  distant  from  our  line  of  march,  to  be  on  the  lookout  for 
game,  and  who  regarded  every  track  with 'the  knowing  eye 
of  an  Indian,  reported  that  he  had  come  upon  a  very  suspi 
cious  trail.  There  were  the  tracks  of  men  who  wore  Pawnee 
moccasons.  He  had  scented  the  smoke  of  mingled  sumach  and 
tobacco,  such  as  the  Indians  use.  He  had  observed  tracks  of 
horses,  mingled  with  those  of  a  dog ;  and  a  mark  in  the  dust 
where  a  cord  had  been  trailed  along ;  probably  the  long  bridle, 
one  end  of  which  the  Indian  horsemen  suffer  to  trail  on  the 
ground.  It  was  evident,  they  were  not  the  tracks  of  wild 
horses.  My  anxiety  began  to  revive  about  the  safety  of  our 
veteran  hunter  Ryan,  for  I  had  taken  a  great  fancy  to  this 
real  old  Leatherstocking ;  every  one  expressed  a  confidence, 
however,  that  wherever  Ryan  was,  he  was  safe,  and  knew 
how  to  take  care  of  himself. 

.We  had  accomplished  the  greater  part  of  a  weary  day's 
march,  and  were  passing  through  a  glade  of  the  oak  openings, 
when  we  came  in  sight  of  six  wild  horses,  among  which  I 
especially  noticed  two  very  handsome  ones,  a  gray  and  a  roan. 
They  pranced  about,  with  heads  erect,  and  long  flaunting  tails, 
offering  a  proud  contrast  to  our  poor,  spiritless,  travel-tired 
steeds.  Having  reconnoitred  us  for  a  moment,  they  set  off 
at  a  gallop,  passed  through  a  woody  dingle,  and  in  a  little 
while  emerged  once  more  to  view,  trotting  up  a  slope  about 
a  mile  distant. 

The  sight  of  these  horses  was  again  a  sore  trial  to  the  vapor 
ing  Tonish,  who  had  his  lariat  and  forked  stick  ready,  and  was 
on  the  point  of  launching  forth  in  pursuit,  on  his  jaded  horse, 
when  he  was  again  ordered  back  to  the  pack-horses.  After  a 
day's  journey  of  fourteen  miles  in  a  southwest  direction,  we 
encamped  on  the  banks  of  a  small  clear  stream,  on  the  north 
ern  border  of  the  Cross  Timber;  and  on  the  edge  of  those 
vast  prairies,  that  extend  away  to  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains.  In  turning  loose  the  horses  to  graze,  their  bells  were 
stuffed  with  grass  to  prevent  their  tinkling,  lest  it  might  be 
heard  by  some  wandering  horde  of  Pawnees. 


88  ^   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

Our  hunters  now  went  out  in  different  directions,  but  with 
out  much  success,  as  but  one  deer  was  brought  into  the  camp. 
A  young  ranger  had  a  long  story  to  tell  of  his  adventures.  In 
skirting  the  thickets  of  a  deep  ravine  he  had  wounded  a  buck, 
which  he  plainly  heard  to  fall  among  the  bushes.  He  stopped 
to  fix  the  lock  of  his  rifle,  which  was  out  of  order,  and  to  reload 
it ;  then  advancing  to  the  edge  of  the  thicket,  in  quest  of  his 
game,  he  heard  a  low  growling.  Putting  the  branches  aside, 
and  stealing  silently  forward,  he  looked  down  into  the  ravine 
and  beheld  a  huge  bear  dragging  the  carcass  of  the  deer  along 
the  dry  channel  of  a  brook,  and  growling  and  snarling  at  four 
or  five  officious  wolves,  who  seemed  to  have  dropped  in  to  take 
supper  with  him. 

The  ranger  fired  at  the  bear,  but  missed  him.  Bruin  main 
tained  his  ground  and  his  prize,  and  seemed  disposed  to  make 
battle.  The  wolves,  too,  who  were  evidently  sharp  set,  drew 
off  to  but  a  small  distance.  As  night  was  coming  on,  the 
young  hunter  felt  dismayed  at  the  wildness  and  darkness  of 
the  place,  and  the  strange  company  he  had  fallen  in  with ;  so 
he  quietly  withdrew,  and  returned  empty  handed  to  the  camp, 
where,  having  told  his  story,  he  was  heartily  bantered  by  his 
more  experienced  comrades. 

In  the  course  of  the  evening,  old  Ryan  came  straggling  into 
the  camp,  followed  by  his  disciple,  and  as  usual  was  received 
with  hearty  gratulations.  He  had  lost  himself  yesterday,  when 
hunting,  and  camped  out  all  night,  but  had  found  our  trail  in 
the  morning,  and  followed  it  up.  He  had  passed  some  time  at 
the  beaver  dam,  admiring  the  skill  and  solidity  with  which  it 
had  been  constructed.  "These  beavers,"  said  he,  "  are  indus 
trious  little  fellows.  They  are  the  knowingest  varment  as  I 
know;  and  I  warrant  the  pond  was  stocked  with  them." 

* '  Aye, "  said  the  Captain,  ' '  I  have  no  doubt  most  of  the 
small  rivers  we  have  passed  are  full  of  beaver.  I  would  like 
to  come  and  trap  on  these  waters  all  winter." 

"  But  would  you  not  run  the  chance  of  being  attacked  by 
Indians?"  asked  one  of  the  company. 

' '  Oh,  as  to  that,  it  would  be  safe  enough  here,  in  the  winter 
time.  There  would  be  no  Indians  here  until  spring.  I  should 
want  no  more  than  two  companions.  Three  persons  are  safer 
than  a  large  number  for  trapping  beaver.  They  can  keep 
quiet,  and  need  seldom  fire  a  gun.  A  bear  would  serve  them 
for  food,  for  two  months,  taking  care  to  turn  every  part  of  it 
to  advantage." 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  89 

A  consultation  was  now  held  as  to  our  future  progress.  We 
had  thus  far  pursued  a  western  course ;  and,  having  traversed 
the  Cross  Timber,  were  on  the  skirts  of  the  Great  Western 
Prairie.  We  were  still,  however,  in  a  very  rough  country, 
where  food  was  scarce.  The  season  was  so  far  advanced  that 
the  grass  was  withered,  and  the  prairies  yielded  no  pasturage. 
The  pea-vines  of  the  bottoms,  also,  which  had  sustained  our 
horses  for  some  part  of  the  journey,  were  nearly  gone,  and  for 
several  days  past  the  poor  animals  had  fallen  off  wofully  both 
in  flesh  aaid  spirit.  The  Indian  fires  on  the  prairies  were 
approaching  us  from  north,  and  south,  and  west ;  they  might 
spread  also  from  the  east,  and  leave  a  scorched  desert  between 
us  and  the  frontier,  in  which  our  horses  might  be  famished. 

It  was  determined,  therefore,  to  advance  no  further  to  the 
westward,  but  to  shape  our  course  more  to  the  east,  so  as  to 
strike  the  north  fork  of  the  Canadian,  as  soon  as  possible,  where 
we  hoped  to  find  abundance  of  young  cane,  which,  at  this  sea 
son  of  the  year,  affords  the  most  nutritious  pasturage  for  the 
horses ;  and,  at  the  same  time,  attracts  immense  quantities  of 
game.  Here  then  we  fixed  the  limits  of  our  tour  to  the  Far 
West,  being  within  little  more  than  a  day's  march  of  the  boun 
dary  line  of  Texas. 


1  CHAPTER  XXIV. 

SCARCITY  OF  BREAD.— RENCONTRE  WITH  BUFFALOES. — WILD  TUR 
KEYS.— FALL  OF  A  BUFFALO  BULL. 

THE  morning  broke  bright  and  clear,  but  the  camp  had  nothj 
ing  of  its  usual  gayety.  The  concert  of  the  farmyard  was  at 
an  end ;  not  a  cock  crew,  nor  dog  barked ;  nor  was  there  either 
singing  or  laughing ;  every  one  pursued  his  avocations  quietly 
and  gravely.  The  novelty  of  the  expedition  was  wearing  off. 
Some  of  the  young  men  were  getting  as  way-worn  as  their 
horses ;  and  most  of  them,  unaccustomed  to  the  hunter's  life, 
began  to  repine  at  its  privations.  What  they  most  felt  was 
the  want  of  bread,  their  rations  of  flour  having  been  exhausted 
for  several  days.  The  old  hunters,  who  had  often  experienced 
this  want,  made  light  of  it;  and  Beatte,  accustomed  when 
among  the  Indians  to  live  for  months  without  it,  considered  it 
a  mere  article  of  luxury.  "  Bread,"  he  would  say  scornfully, 
" is  only  fit  for  a  child." 


90  A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRA1EIES. 

About  a  quarter  before  eight  o'clock,  we  turned  our  backs 
upon  the  Far  West,  and  set  off  in  a  southeast  course,  along  a 
gentle  valley.  After  riding  a  few  miles,  Beatte,  who  kept 
parallel  with  us,  along  the  ridge  of  a  naked  hill  to  our  right, 
called  out  and  made  signals,  as  if  something  were  coming 
round  the  hill  to  intercept  us.  Some  who  were  near  me  cried 
out  that  it  was  a  party  of  Pawnees.  A  skirt  of  thickets  hid 
the  approach  of  the  supposed  enemy  from  our  view.  We 
heard  a  trampling  among  the  brushwood.  My  horse  looked 
toward  the  place,  snorted  and  pricked  up  his  ears,  when  pres 
ently  a  couple  of  large  buffalo  bulls,  who  had  been  alarmed  by 
Beatte,  came  crashing  through  the  brake,  and  making  directly 
toward  us.  At  sight  of  us  they  wheeled  round,  and  scuttled 
along  a  narrow  defile  of  the  hill.  In  an  instant  half  a  score 
of  rifles  cracked  off ;  there  was  a  universal  whoop  and  halloo, 
and  away  went  half  the  troop,  helter-skelter  in  pursuit,  and 
myself  among  the  number.  The  most  of  us  soon  pulled  up, 
and  gave  over  a  chase  which  led  through  birch  and  brier,  and 
brsak-neck  ravines.  Some  few  of  the  rangers  persisted  for 
a  time;  but  eventually  joined  the  line,  slowly  lagging  one 
after  another.  One  of  them  returned  on  foot;  he  had  been 
thrown  while  in  full  chase ;  his  rifle  had  been  broken  in  the 
fall,  and  his  horse,  retaining  the  spirit  of  the  rider,  had  kept 
on  after  the  buffalo.  It  was  a  melancholy  predicament  to  be 
reduced  to;  without  horse  or  weapon  in  the  midst  of  the 
Pawnee  hunting  grounds. 

For  my  own  part,  I  had  been  fortunate  enough  recently,  by 
a  further  exchange,  to  get  possession  of  the  best  horse  in  the 
troop;  a  full-blooded  sorrel  of  excellent  bottom,  beautiful 
form,  and  most  generous  qualities. 

In  such  a  situation  it  almost  seems  as  if  a  man  changes  his 
nature  with  his  horse.  I  felt  quite  like  another  being,  now 
that  I  had  an  animal  under  me,  spirited  yet  gentle,  docile  to 
a  remarkable  degree,  and  easy,  elastic,  and  rapid  in  all  his 
movements.  In  a  few  days  he  became  almost  as  much  at 
tached  to  me  as  a  dog ;  would  follow  me  when  I  dismounted, 
would  come  to  me  in  the  morning  to  be  noticed  and  caressed ; 
and  would  put  his  muzzle  between  me  and  my  book,  as  I  sat 
reading  at  the  foot  of  a  tree.  The  feeling  I  had  for  this  my 
dumb  companion  of  the  prairies,  gave  me  some  faint  idea  of 
that  attachment  the  Arab  is  said  to  entertain  for  the  horse 
that  has  borne  him  about  the  deserts. 

After  riding  a  few  miles  further,  we  came  to  a  fine  meadow 


A  TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  91 

with  a  broad  clear  stream  winding  through  it,  on  the  banks  of 
which  there  was  excellent  pasturage.  Here  we  at  once  came 
to  a  halt,  in  a  beautiful  grove  of  elms,  on  the  site  of  an  old 
Osage  encampment.  Scarcely  had  we  dismounted,  when  a 
universal  firing  of  rifles  took  place  upon  a  large  flock  of  tur 
keys,  scattered  about  the  grove,  which  proved  to  be  a  favorite 
roosting-place  for  these  simple  birds.  They  flew  to  the  trees, 
and  sat  perched  upon  their  branches,  stretching  out  their  long 
necks,  and  gazing  in  stupid  astonishment,  until  eighteen  of 
them  were  shot  down. 

In  the  height  of  the  carnage,  word  was  brought  that  there 
were  four  buffaloes  in  a  neighboring  meadow.  The  turkeys 
were  now  abandoned  for  nobler  game.  The  tired  horses  were 
again  mounted,  and  urged  to  the  chase.  In  a  little  while  we 
came  in  sight  of  the  buffaloes,  looking  like  brown  hillocks 
among  the  long  green  herbage.  Beatte  endeavored  to  get 
ahead  of  them  and  turn  them  towards  us,  that  the  inexperi 
enced  hunters  might  have  a  chance.  They  ran  round  the  base 
of  a  rocky  hill,  that  hid  us  from  the  sight.  Some  of  us  en 
deavored  to  cut  across  the  hill,  but  became  entrapped  in  a 
thick  wood,  matted  with  grape-vines.  My  horse,  who,  under 
his  former  rider,  had  hunted  the  buffalo,  seemed  as  much 
excited  as  myself,  and  endeavored  to  force  his  way  through 
the  bushes.  At  length  we  extricated  ourselves,  and  galloping 
over  the  hill,  I  found  our  little  Frenchman,  Tonish,  curvetting 
on  horseback  round  a  great  buffalo  which  he  had  wounded  too 
severely  to  fly,  and  which  he  was  keeping  employed  until  we 
should  come  up.  There  was  a  mixture  of  the  grand  and  the 
comic,  in  beholding  tins  tremendous  animal  and  his  fantastic 
assailant.  The  buffalo  stood  with  his  shaggy  front  always 
presented  to  his  foe ;  his  mouth  open,  his  tongue  parched,  his 
eyes  like  coals  of  fire,  and  his  tail  erect  with  rage;  every  now 
and  then  he  would  make  a  faint  rush  upon  his  foe,  who  easily 
evaded  his  attack,  capering  and  cutting  all  kinds  of  antics 
before  him. 

We  now  made  repeated  shots  at  the  buffalo,  but  they 
glanced  into  his  mountain  of  flesh  without  proving  mortal. 
He  made  a  slow  and  grand  retreat  into  the  shallow  river, 
turning  upon  his  assailants  whenever  they  pressed  upon  him ; 
and  when  in  the  .water,  took  his  stand  there  as  if  prepared  to 
sustain  a  siege.  A  rifle-ball,  however,  more  fatally  lodged, 
sent  a  tremor  through  his  frame.  He  turned  and  attempted 
to  wade  across  the  stream,  but  after  tottering  a  few  paces, 


92  A   TO  UP,   ON  TllK  PRAIRIES. 

slowly  fell  upon  his  side  and  expired.  It  was  the  fall  of  a  hero, 
and  we  felt  somewhat  ashamed  of  the  butchery  that  had 
effected  it ;  but,  after  the  first  shot  or  two,  we  had  reconciled 
it  to  our  feelings,  by  the  old  plea  of  putting  the  poor  animal 
out  of  his  misery. 

Two  other  buffaloes  were  killed  this  evening,  but  they  were 
all  bulls,  the  flesh  of  which  is  meagre  and  hard,  at  this  season 
of  the  year.  A  fat  buck  yielded  us  more  savory  meat  for  oui 
evening's  repast. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

RINGING    THE  WILD  HORSE. 

WE  left  the  buffalo  camp  about  eight  o'clock,  and  had  a 
toilsome  and  harassing  march  of  two  hours,  over  ridges  of 
hills,  covered  with  a  ragged  meagre  forest  of  scrub-oaks,  and 
broken  by  deep  gullies.  Among  the  oaks  I  observed  many  of 
the  most  diminutive  size;  some  not  above  a  foot  high,  yet 
bearing  abundance  of  small  acorns.  The  whole  of  the  Cross 
Timber,  in  fact,  abounds  with  mast.  There  is  a  pine-oak  which 
produces  an  acorn  pleasant  to  the  taste,  and  ripening  early  in 
the  season. 

About  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  came  to  where  this  line 
of  rugged  hills  swept  down  into  a  valley,  through  which  flowed 
the  north  fork  of  the  Red  River.  A  beautiful  meadow  about 
half  a  mile  wide,  enamelled  with  yellow  autumnal  flowers, 
stretched  for  two  or  three  miles  along  the  foot  of  the  hills, 
bordered  on  the  opposite  side  by  the  river,  whose  banks  were 
fringed  with  cotton  wood  trees,  the  bright  foliage  of  which  re 
freshed  and  delighted  the  eye,  after  being  wearied  by  the  con 
templation  of  monotonous  wastes  of  brown  forest. 

The  meadow  was  finely  diversified  by  groves  and  clumps  of 
trees,  so  happily  dispersed,  that  they  seemed  as  if  set  out  by 
the  hand  of  art.  As  we  cast  our  eyes  over  this  fresh  and  de 
lightful  valley,  we  beheld  a  troop  of  wild  horses,  quietly  graz 
ing  on  a  green  lawn,  about  a  mile  distant  to  our  right,  while  to 
our  left,  at  nearly  the  same  distance,  were  several  buffaloes ; 
some  feeding,  others  reposing  and  ruminating  among  the  high 
rich  herbage,  under  the  shade  of  a  clump  of  cottonwood  trees. 
The  whole  had  the  appearance  of  a  broad  beautiful  tract  of 
pasture  land,  on  the  highly  ornamented  estate  of  some  gentle- 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  95 

man  farmer,  with  his  cattle  grazing  about  the  lawns  and  mea 
dows. 

A  council  of  war  was  now  held,  and  it  was  determined  to 
profit  by  the  present  favorable  opportunity,  and  try  our  hand 
at  the  grand  hunting  manoeuvre,  which  is  called  ringing  the 
wild  horse.  This  requires  a  large  party  of  horsemen,  well 
mounted.  They  extend  themselves  in  each  direction,  singly, 
at  certain  distances  apart,  and  gradually  form  a  ring  of  two  or 
three  miles  in  circumference,  so  as  to  surround  the  game.  This 
has  to  be  done  with  extreme  care,  for  the  wild  horse  is  the 
most  readily  alarmed  inhabitant  of  the  prairie,  and  can  scent  a 
hunter  at  a  great  distance,  if  to  windward. 

The  ring  being  formed,  two  or  three  ride  toward  the  horses, 
who  start  off  in  an  opposite  direction.  Whenever  they  ap 
proach  the  bounds  of  the  ring,  however,  a  huntsman  presents 
himself  and  turns  them  from  their  course.  In  this  way,  they 
are  checked  and  driven  back  at  every  point ;  and  kept  gallop 
ing  round  and  round  this  magic  circle,  until,  being  completely 
tired  down,  it  is  easy  for  the  hunters  to  ride  up  beside  them, 
and  throw  the  lariat  over  their  heads.  The  prime  horses  of 
most  speed,  courage,  and  bottom,  however,  are  apt  to  break 
through  and  escape,  so  that,  in  general,  it  is  the  second-rate 
horses  that  are  taken. 

Preparations  were  now  made  for  a  hunt  of  the  kind.  The 
pack-horses  were  taken  into  the  woods  and  firmly  tied  to  trees, 
lest,  in  a  rush  of  the  wild  horses,  they  should  break  away  with 
them.  Twenty-five  men  were  then  sent  under  the  command 
of  a  lieutenant,  to  steal  along  the  edge  of  the  valley  within  the 
strip  of  wood  that  skirted  the  hills.  They  were  to  station 
themselves  about  fifty  yards  apart,  within  the  edge  of  the 
woods,  and  not  advance  or  show  themselves  until  the  horses 
dashed  in  that  direction.  Twenty -five  men  were  sent  across 
the  valley,  to  steal  in  like  manner  along  the  river  bank  that 
bordered  the  opposite  side,  and  to  station  themselves  among 
the  trees.  A  third  party,  of  about  the  same  number,  was  to 
form  a  line,  stretching  across  the  lower  part  of  the  valley,  so 
as  to  connect  the  two  wings.  Beatte  and  our  other  half-breed, 
Antoine,  together  with  the  ever-officious  Tonish,  were  to  make 
'a  circuit  through  the  woods  so  as  to  get  to  the  upper  part  of 
the  valley,  in  the  rear  of  the  horses,  and  to  drive  them  forward 
into  the  kind  of  sack  that  we  had  formed,  while  the  two  wings 
should  join  behind  them  and  make  a  complete  circle. 

The  flanking  parties  were  quietly  extending  themselves,  out 


94  A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

of  sight,  on  each  side  of  the  valley,  and  the  residue  were 
stretching  themselves,  like  the  links  of  a  chain,  across  it,  when 
the  wild  horses  gave  signs  that  they  scented  an  enemy ;  snuf 
fing  the  air,  snorting,  and  looking  about.  At  length  they 
pranced  off  slowly  toward  the  river,  and  disappeared  behind  a 
green  bank.  Here,  had  the  regulations  of  the  chase  been  ob 
served,  they  would  have  been  quietly  checked  and  turned  back 
by  the  advance  of  a  hunter  from  among  the  trees ;  unluckily, 
however,  we  had  our  wild-fire  Jack-o'-lantern  little  Frenchman 
to  deal  with.  Instead  of  keeping  quietly  up  the  right  side  of 
the  valley,  to  get  above  the  horses,  the  moment  he  saw  them 
move  toward  the  river,  he  broke  out  of  the  covert  of  woods, 
and  dashed  furiously  across  the  plain  in  pursuit  of  them,  being 
mounted  on  one  of  the  led  horses  belonging  to  the  Count.  This 
put  an  end  to  all  system.  The  half-breeds  and  half  a  score  ot 
rangers  joined  in  the  chase.  Away  they  all  went  over  the 
green  bank ;  in  a  moment  or  two  the  wild  horses  reappeared, 
and  came  thundering  down  the  valley,  with  Frenchman,  half- 
breeds,  and  rangers  galloping  and  yelling  like  devils  behind 
them.  It  was  in  vain  that  the  line  drawn  across  the  valley  at 
tempted  to  check  and  turn  back  the  fugitives.  They  were  too 
hotly  pressed  by  their  pursuers;  in  their  panic  they  dashed 
through  the  line,  and  clattered  down  the  plain.  The  whole 
troop  joined  in  the  headlong  chase,  some  of  the  rangers  with 
out  hats  or  caps,  their  hair  flying  about  their  ears,  others  with 
handkerchiefs  tied  round  their  heads.  The  buffaloes,  who  had 
been  calmly  ruminating  among  the  herbage,  heaved  up  their 
huge  forms,  gazed  for  a  moment  with  astonishment  at  the 
tempest  that  came  scouring  down  the  meadow,  then  turned 
and  took  to  heavy -rolling  flight.  They  were  soon  overtaken ; 
the  promiscuous  throng  were  pressed  together  by  the  contract 
ing  sides  of  the  valley,  and  away  they  went,  pell-mell,  hurry- 
scurry,  wild  buffalo,  wild  horse,  wild  huntsman,  with  clang 
and  clatter,  and  whoop  and  halloo,  that  made  the  forests  ring. 
At  length  the  buffaloes  turned  into  a  green  brake  on  the 
river  bank,  while  the  horses  dashed  up  a  narrow  defile  of  the 
hills,  with  their  pursuers  close  at  their  heels.  Beatte  passed 
several  of  them,  having  fixed  his  eye  upon  a  fine  Pawnee  horse, 
that  had  his  ears  slit,  and  saddle-marks  upon  his  back.  He 
pressed  him  gallantly,  but  lost  him  in  the  woods.  Among  the 
wild  horses  was  a  fine  black  mare,  far  gone  with  foal.  In 
scrambling  up  the  defile,  she  tripped  and  fell.  A  young  ranger 
sprang  from  his  horse,  and  seized  her  by  the  mane  and  muzzle. 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  95 

Another  ranger  dismounted,  and  came  to  his  assistance.  The 
mare  struggled  fiercely,  kicking  and  biting,  and  striking  with 
her  fore  feet,  but  a  noose  was  slipped  over  her  head,  and  her 
struggles  were  in  vain.  It  was  some  time,  however,  before 
she  gave  over  rearing  and  plunging,  and  lashing  out  with  her 
feet  on  every  side.  The  two  rangers  then  led  her  along  the 
valley  by  two  long  lariats,  which  enabled  them  to  keep  at  a 
sufficient  distance  on  each  side  to  be  out  of  the  reach  of  her 
hoofs,  and  whenever  she  struck  out  in  one  direction,  she  was 
jerked  in  the  other.  In  this  way  her  spirit  was  gradually  sub 
dued. 

As  to  little  Scaramouch  Tonish,  who  had  marred  the  whole 
scene  by  his  precipitancy,  he«had  been  more  successful  than  he 
deserved,  having  managed  to  catch  a  beautiful  cream-colored 
colt,  about  seven  months  old,  which  had  not  strength  to  keep 
up  with  its  companions.  The  mercurial  little  Frenchman  was 
beside  himself  with  exultation.  It  was  amusing  to  see  him 
with  his  prize.  The  colt  would  rear  and  kick,  and  struggle  to 
get  free,  when  Tonish  would  take  him  about  the  neck,  wrestle 
with  him,  jump  on  his  back,  and  cut  as  many  antics  as  a  mon 
key  with  a  kitten.  Nothing  surprised  me  more,  however,  than 
to  witness  how  soon  these  poor  animals,  thus  taken  from  the 
unbounded  freedom  of  the  prairie,  yielded  to  the  dominion  of 
man.  In  the  course  of  two  or  three  days  the  mare  and  colt 
went  with  the  led  horses,  and  became  quite  docile. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

FORDING  OF  THE  NORTH  FORK. — DREARY  SCENERY  OF  THE  CROSS 
TIMBER.— SCAMPER  OF  HORSES  IN  THE  NIGHT.— OSAGE  WAR 
PARTY. — EFFECTS  OF  A  PEACE  HARANGUE. — BUFFALO. — WILD 
HORSE. 

RESUMING  our  march,  we  forded  the  North  Fork,  a  rapid 
stream,  and  of  a  purity  seldom  to  be  found  in  the  rivers  of  the 
prairies.  It  evidently  had  its  sources  in  high  land,  well  sup 
plied  with  springs.  After  crossing  the  river,  we  again  as 
cended  among  hills,  from  one  of  which  we  had  an  extensive 
view  over  this  belt  of  cross  timber,  and  a  cheerless  prospect  it 
was ;  hill  beyond  hill,  forest  beyond  forest,  all  of  one  sad  rus 
set  hue— excepting  that  here  and  there  a  line  of  green  cotton- 


96  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

wood  trees,  sycamores,  and  willows,  marked  the  course  of 
some  streamlet  through  a  valley.  A  procession  of  buffaloes, 
moving  slowly  up  the  profile  of  one  of  those  distant  hills, 
formed  a  characteristic  object  in  the  savage  scene.  To  the 
left,  the  eye  stretched  beyond  this  rugged  wilderness  of  hills, 
and  ravines,  and  ragged  forests,  to  a  prairie  about  ten  miles 
off,  extending  in  a  clear  blue  line  along  the  horizon.  It  was 
like  looking  from  among  rocks  and  breakers  upon  a  distant 
tract  of  tranquil  ocean.  Unluckily,  our  route  did  not  lie  in 
that  direction ;  we  still  had  to  traverse  many  a  weary  mile  of 
the  ' '  cross  timber. " 

We  encamped  toward  evening  in  a  valley,  beside  a  scanty 
pool,  under  a  scattered  grove  of  elms,  the  upper  branches  of 
which  were  fringed  with  tufts  of  the  mystic  mistletoe.  In  the 
course  of  the  night,  the  wild  colt  whinnied  repeatedly;  and 
about  two  hours  before  day,  there  was  a  sudden  stampedo,  or 
rush  of  horses,  along  the  purlieus  of  the  camp,  with  a  snorting 
and  neighing,  and  clattering  of  hoofs,  that  startled  most  of  the 
rangers  from  their  sleep,  who  listened  in  silence,  until  the 
sound  died  away  like  the  rushing  of  a  blast.  As  usual,  the 
noise  was  at  first  attributed  to  some  party  of  marauding  In 
dians,  but  as  the  day  dawned,  a  couple  of  wild  horses  were 
seen  in  a  neighboring  meadow,  which  scoured  off  on  being 
approached.  It  was  now  supposed  that  a  gang  of  them  had 
dashed  through  our  camp  in  the  night.  A  general  mustering 
of  our  horses  took  place,  many  were  found  scattered  to  a  con 
siderable  distance,  and  several  were  not  to  be  found.  The 
prints  of  their  hoofs,  however,  appeared  deeply  dinted  in  the 
soil,  leading  off  at  full  speed  into  the  waste,  and  their  owners, 
putting  themselves  on  the  trail,  set  off  in  weary  search  of 
them. 

We  had  a  ruddy  daybreak,  but  the  morning  gathered  up 
gray  and  lowering,  with  indications  of  an  autumnal  storm. 
We  resumed  our  march  silently  and  seriously,  through  a 
rough  and  cheerless  country,  from  the  highest  points  of  which 
we  could  descry  large  prairies,  stretching  indefinitely  west 
ward.  After  travelling  for  two  or  three  hours,  as  we  were  tra 
versing  a  withered  prairie,  resembling  a  great  brown  heath, 
we  beheld  seven  Osage  warriors  approaching  at  a  distance. 
The  sight  of  any  human  being  in  this  lonely  wilderness  was 
interesting ;  it  was  like  speaking  a  ship  at  sea.  One  of  the  In 
dians  took  the  lead  of  his  companions,  and  advanced  toward 
us  with  head  erect,  chest  thrown  forward,  and  a  free  and  noble 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  97 

mien.  He  was  a  fine-looking  fellow,  dressed  in  scarlet  frock 
and  fringed  leggings  of  deer  skin.  His  head  was  decorated 
with  a  white  tuft,  and  he  stepped  forward  with  something  of  a 
martial  air,  swaying  his  bow  and  arrows  in  one  hand. 

We  held  some  conversation  with  him  through  our  inter 
preter,  Beatte,  and  found  that  he  and  his  companions  had  been 
with  the  main  part  of  their  tribe  hunting  the  buffalo,  and 
had  met  with  great  success ;  and  he  informed  us,  that  in  the 
course  of  another  day's  march,  we  would  reach  the  prairies  on 
the  banks  of  the  Grand  Canadian,  and  find  plenty  of  game. 
He  added,  that  as  their  hunt  was  over,  and  the  hunters  on 
their  return  homeward,  he  and  his  comrades  had  set  out  on  a 
war  party,  to  waylay  and  hover  about  some  Pawnee  camp,  in 
hopes  of  carrying  off  scalps  or  horses. 

By  this  time  his  companions,  who  at  first  stood  aloof,  joined 
him.  Three  of  them  had  indifferent  fowling-pieces;  the  rest 
were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  I  could  not  but  admire 
the  finely  shaped  heads  and  busts  of  these  savages,  and  their 
graceful  attitudes  and  expressive  gestures,  as  they  stood  con 
versing  with  our  interpreter,  and  surrounded  by  a  cavalcade 
of  rangers.  We  endeavored  to  get  one  of  them  to  join  us,  as 
we  were  desirous  of  seeing  him  hunt  the  buffalo  with  his  bow 
and  arrow.  He  seemed  at  first  inclined  to  do  so,  but  was  dis 
suaded  by  his  companions. 

The  worthy  Commissioner  now  remembered  his  mission  as 
pacificator,  and  made  a  speech,  exhorting  them  to  abstain 
from  all  offensive  acts  against  the  Pawnees ;  informing  them 
of  the  plan  of  their  father  at  Washington,  to  put  an  end  to  all 
war  among  his  red  children ;  and  assuring  them  that  he  was 
sent  to  the  frontier  to  establish  a  universal  peace.  He  told 
them,  therefore,  to  return  quietly  to  their  homes,  with  the  cer 
tainty  that  the  Pawnees  would  no  longer  molest  them,  but 
would  soon  regard  them  as  brothers. 

The  Indians  listened  to  the  speech  with  their  customary 
silence  and  decorum;  after  which,  exchanging  a  few  words 
among  themselves,  they  bade  us  farewell,  and  pursued  their 
way  across  the  prairie. 

Fancying  that  I  saw  a  lurking  smile  in  the  countenance  of 
our  interpreter,  Beatte,  I  privately  inquired  what  the  Indians 
had  said  to  each  other  after  hearing  the  speech.  The  leader, 
he  said,  had  observed  to  his  companions,  that,  as  their  great 
father  intended  so  soon  to  put  an  end  to  all  warfare,  it  be 
hooved  them  to  make  the  most  of  the  little  time  that  was  left 


98  -4   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

them.  So  they  had  departed,  with  redoubled  zeal,  to  pursue 
their  project  of  horse-stealing ! 

We  had  not  long  parted  from  the  Indians  before  we  dis 
covered  three  buffaloes  among  the  thickets  of  a  marshy  valley 
to  our  left.  I  set  off  with  the  Captain  and  several  rangers,  in 
pursuit  of  them.  Stealing  through  a  straggling  grove,  the 
Captain,  who  took  the  lead,  got  within  rifle-shot,  and  wounded 
one  of  them  in  the  flank.  They  all  three  made  of  in  headlong 
panic,  through  thickets  and  brushwood,  and  swamp  and  mire, 
bearing  down  every  obstacle  by  their  immense  weight.  The 
Captain  and  rangers  soon  gave  up  a  chase  which  threatened 
to  knock  up  their  horses;  I  had  got  upon  the  traces  of  the 
wounded  bull,  however,  and  was  in  hopes  of  getting  near 
enough  to  use  my  pistols,  the  only  weapons  with  which  I  was 
provided ;  but  before  I  could  effect  it,  he  reached  the  foot  of  a 
rocky  hill,  covered  with  post-oak  and  brambles,  and  plunged 
forward,  dashing  and  crashing  eJong,  with  neck  or  nothing 
fury,  where  it  would  have  been  madness  to  have  followed 
him. 

The  chase  had  led  me  so  far  on  one  side,  that  it  was  some 
time  before  I  regained  the  trail  of  our  troop.  As  I  was  slowly 
ascending  a  hill,  a  fine  black  mare  came  prancing  round  the 
summit,  and  was  close  to  me  before  she  was  aware.  At  sight 
of  me  she  started  back,  then  turning,  swept  at  full  speed  down 
into  the  valley,  and  up  the  opposite  hill,  with  flowing  mane 
and  tail,  and  action  free  as  air.  I  gazed  after  her  as  long  as 
she  was  in  sight,  and  breathed  a  wish  that  so  glorious  an 
animal  might  never  come  under  the  degrading  thraldom  of 
whip  and  curb,  but  remain  a  free  rover  of  the  prairies. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

FOUL  WEATHER  ENCAMPMENT. — ANECDOTES  OF  BEAR  HUNTING. — 
INDIAN  NOTIONS  ABOUT  OMENS.  —  SCRUPLES  RESPECTING  THE 
DEAD. 

ON  overtaking  the  troop,  I  found  it  encamping  in  a  rich 
bottom  of  woodland,  traversed  by  a  small  stream,  running 
between  deep  crumbling  banks.  A  sharp  cracking  off  of  rifles 
was  kept  up  for  some  time  in  various  directions,  upon  a  nu 
merous  flock  of  turkeys,  scampering  among  the  thickets,  or 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  99 

perched  upon  the  trees.  Ws  had  not  been  long  at  a  halt, 
when  a  drizzling  rain  ushered  in  the  autumnal  storm  that 
had  been  brewing.  Preparations  were  immediately  made  to 
weather  it ;  our  tent  was  pitched,  and  our  saddles,  saddlebags, 
packages  of  coffee,  sugar,  salt,  and  every  thing  else  that  could 
be  damaged  by  the  rain,  were  gathered  under  its  shelter.  Our 
men,  Beatte,  Tonish,  and  Antoine,  drove  stakes  with  forked 
ends  into  the  ground,  laid  poles  across  them  for  rafters,  and 
thus  made  a  shed  or  pent-house,  covered  with  bark  and  skins, 
sloping  toward  the  wind,  and  open  toward  the  fire.  The  ran 
gers  formed  similar  shelters  of  bark  and  skins,  or  of  blankets 
stretched  on  poles,  supported  by  forked  stakes,  with  great  fires 
in  front. 

These  precautions  were  well  timed.  The  rain  set  in  sullenly 
and  steadily,  and  kept  on,  with  slight  intermissions,  for  two 
days.  The  brook  which  flowed  peacefully  on  our  arrival, 
swelled  into  a  turbid  and  boiling  torrent,  and  the  forest  be 
came  little  better  than  a  mere  swamp.  The  men  gathered 
under  their  shelters  of  skins  and  blankets,  or  sat  cowering 
round  their  fires ;  while  columns  of  smoke  curling  up  among 
the  trees,  and  diffusing  themselves  in  the  air,  spread  a  blue 
haze  through  the  woodland.  Our  poor,  way-worn  horses, 
reduced  by  weary  travel  and  scanty  pasturage,  lost  all  re 
maining  spirit,  and  stood,  with  drooping  heads,  flagging  ears, 
and  half-closed  eyes,  dozing  and  steaming  in  the  rain,  while 
the  yellow  autumnal  leaves,  at  every  shaking  of  the  breeze, 
came  wavering  down  around  them. 

Notwithstanding  the  bad  weather,  however,  our  hunters 
were  not  idle,  but  during  the  intervals  of  the  rain,  sallied  forth 
on  horseback  to  prowl  through  the  woodland.  Every  now 
and  then  the  sharp  report  of  a  distant  rifle  boded  the  death  of 
a  deer.  Venison  in  abundance  was  brought  in.  Some  busied 
themselves  under  the  sheds,  flaying  and  cutting  up  the  car 
casses,  or  round  the  fires  with  spits  and  camp  kettles,  and 
a  rude  kind  of  feasting,  or  rather  gormandizing,  prevailed 
throughout  the  camp.  The  axe  was  continually  at  work, 
and  wearied  the  forest  with  its  echoes.  Crash !  some  mighty 
tree  would  come  down ;  in  a  few  minutes  its  limbs  would  be 
blazing  and  crackling  on  the  huge  camp  fires,  with  some 
luckless  deer  roasting  before  it,  that  had  once  sported  beneath 
its  shade. 

The  change  of  weather  had  taken  sharp  hold  of  our  little 
Frenchman.  His  meagre  frame,  composed  of  bones  and  whip- 


100  A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

cord,  was  racked  with  rheumatic  pains  and  twinges.  He  had 
the  toothache — the  earache— his  face  was  tied  up— he  had 
shooting  pains  in  every  limb ;  yet  all  seemed  but  to  increase 
his  restless  activity,  and  he  was  in  an  incessant  fidget  about 
the  fire,  roasting,  and  stewing,  and  groaning,  and  scolding, 
and  swearing. 

Our  man  Beatte  returned  grim  and  mortified,  from  hunting. 
He  had  come  upon  a  bear  of  formidable  dimensions,  and 
wounded  him  with  a  rifle-shot.  The  bear  took  to  the  brook, 
which  was  swollen  and  rapid.  Beatte  dashed  in  after  him  and 
assailed  him  in  the  rear  with  his  hunting-knife.  At  every 
blow  the  bear  turned  furiously  upon  him,  with  a  terrific  dis 
play  of  white  teeth.  Beatte,  having  a  foothold  in  the  brook, 
was  enabled  to  push  him  off  with  his  rifle,  and,  when  he 
turned  to  swim,  would  flounder  after,  and  attempt  to  ham 
string  him.  The  bear,  however,  succeeded  in  scrambling  off 
among  the  thickets,  and  Beatte  had  to  give  up  the  chase. 

This  adventure,  if  it  produced  no  game,  brought  up  at  least 
several  anecdotes,  round  the  evening  fire,  relative  to  bear 
hunting,  in  which  the  grizzly  bear  figured  conspicuously. 
This  powerful  and  ferocious  animal  is  a  favorite  theme  of 
hunter's  story,  both  among  red  and  white  men;  and  his 
enormous  claws  are  worn  round  the  neck  of  an  Indian  brave 
as  a  trophy  more  honorable  than  a  human  scalp.  He  is  now 
scarcely  seen  below  the  upper  prairies  and  the  skirts  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Other  bears  are  formidable  when  wounded 
and  provoked,  but  seldom  make  battle  when  allowed  to  escape. 
The  grizzly  bear  alone,  of  all  the  animals  of  our  Western 
wilds,  is  prone  to  unprovoked  hostility.  His  prodigious  size 
and  strength  make  him  a  formidable  opponent ;  and  his  great 
tenacity  of  life  often  baffles  the  skill  of  the  hunter,  notwith 
standing  repeated  shots  of  the  rifle,  and  wounds  of  the  hunting- 
knife. 

One  of  the  anecdotes  related  on  this  occasion,  gave  a  picture 
of  the  accidents  and  hard  shifts  to  which  our  frontier  rovers 
are  inured.  A  hunter,  while  in  pursuit  of  a  deer,  fell  into  one 
of  those  deep  funnel-shaped  pits,  formed  on  the  prairies  by  the 
settling  of  the  waters  after  heavy  rains,  and  known  by  the 
name  of  sink-holes.  To  his  great  horror,  he  came  in  contact, 
at  the  bottom,  with  a  huge  grizzly  bear.  The  monster  grap 
pled  him ;  a  deadly  contest  ensued,  in  which  the  poor  hunter 
was  severely  torn  and  bitten,  and  had  a  leg  and  an  arm 
broken,  but  succeeded  in  killing  his  rugged  foe.  For  several 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  101 

days  he  remained  at  the  bottom  of  the  pit,  too  much  crippled 
to  move,  and  subsisting  on  the  raw  flesh  of  the  bear,  during 
which  time  he  kept  his  wounds  open,  that  they  might  heal 
gradually  and  effectually.  He  was  at  length  enabled  to 
scramble  to  the  top  of  the  pit,  and  so  out  upon  the  open 
prairie.  With  great  difficulty  he  crawled  to  a  ravine,  formed 
by  a  stream,  then  nearly  dry.  Here  he  took  a  delicious 
draught  of  water,  which  infused  new  life  into  him;  then 
dragging  himself  along  from  pool  to  pool,  he  supported  him 
self  by  small  fish  and  frogs. 

One  day  he  saw  a  wolf  hunt  down  and  kill  a  deer  in  the 
neighboring  prairie.  He  immediately  crawled  forth  from  the 
ravine,  drove  off  the  wolf,  and,  lying  down  beside  the  carcass 
of  the  deer,  remained  there  until  he  made  several  hearty 
meals,  by  which  his  strength  was  much  recruited. 

Returning  to  the  ravine,  he  pursued  the  course  of  the  brook, 
until  it  grew  to  be  a  considerable  stream.  Down  this  he 
floated,  until  he  came  to  where  it  emptied  into  the  Mississippi. 
Just  at  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  he  found  a  forked  tree,  which 
he  launched  with  some  difficulty,  and,  getting  astride  of  it, 
committed  himself  to  the  current  of  the  mighty  river.  In  this 
way  he  floated  along,  until  he  arrived  opposite  the  fort  at 
Council  Bluffs.  Fortunately  he  arrived  there  in  the  daytime, 
otherwise  he  might  have  floated,  unnoticed,  past  this  solitary 
post,  and  perished  in  the  idle  waste  of  waters.  Being  descried 
from  the  fort,  a  canoe  was  sent  to  his  relief,  and  he  was 
brought  to  shore  more  dead  than  alive,  where  he  soon  re 
covered  from  his  wounds,  but  remained  maimed  for  life. 

Our  man  Beatte  had  come  out  of  his  contest  with  the  bear 
very  much  worsted  and  discomfited.  His  drenching  in  the 
brook,  together  with  the  recent  change  of  weather,  had 
brought  on  rheumatic  pains  in  his  limbs,  to  which  he  is 
subject.  Though  ordinarily  a  fellow  of  undaunted  spirit, 
and  above  all  hardship,  yet  he  now  sat  down  by  the  fire, 
gloomy  and  dejected,  and  for  once  gave  way  to  repining. 
Though  in  the  prime  of  life,  and  of  a  robust  frame,  and  appa 
rently  iron  constitution,  yet,  by  his  own  account,  he  was  little 
better  than  a  mere  wreck.  He  was,  in  fact,  a  living  monu 
ment  of  the  hardships  of  wild  frontier  life.  Baring  his  left 
arm,  he  showed  it  warped  and  contracted  by  a  former  attack 
of  rheumatism;  a  malady  with  which  the  Indians  are  often 
afflicted ;  for  their  exposure  to  the  vicissitudes  of  the  elements 
does  not  produce  that  perfect  hardihood  and  insensibility  to 


]02  -4   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIIUES. 

the  changes  of  the  seasons  that  many  are  apt  to  imagine.  He 
bore  the  scars  of  various  maims  and  bruises ;  some  received  in 
hunting,  some  in  Indian  warfare.  His  right  arm  had  been 
broken  by  a  fall  from  his  horse ;  'at  another  time  his  steed  had 
fallen  with  him,  and  crushed  his  left  leg. 

"I  am  all  broke  to  pieces  and  good  for  nothing,"  said  he;  "I 
no  care  now  what  happen  to  me  any  more."  "However," 
added  he,  after  a  moment's  pause,  "for  all  that,  it  would  take 
a  pretty  strong  man  to  put  me  down,  anyhow." 

I  drew  from  him  various  particulars  concerning  himself, 
which  served  to  raise  him  in  my  estimation.  His  residence 
was  on  the  Neosho,  in  an  Osage  hamlet  or  neighborhood, 
under  the  superintendence  of  a  worthy  missionary  from  the 
banks  of  the  Hudson,  by  the  name  of  Requa,  who  was  endea 
voring  to  instruct  the  savages  in  the  art  of  agriculture,  and  to 
make  husbandmen  and  herdsmen  of  them.  I  had  visited  this 
agricultural  mission  of  Requa  in  the  course  of  my  recent  tour 
along  the  frontier,  and  had  considered  it  more  likely  to  pro 
duce  solid  advantages  to  the  poor  Indians  than  any  of  the 
mere  praying  and  preaching  missions  along  the  border. 

In  this  neighborhood,  Pierre  Beatte  had  his  little  farm,  his 
Indian  wife,  and  his  half-breed  children ;  and  aided  Mr.  Requa 
in  his  endeavors  to  civilize  the  habits,  and  meliorate  the  con 
dition  of  the  Osage  tribe.  Beatte  had  been  brought  up  a 
Catholic,  and  was  inflexible  in  his  religious  faith ;  he  could  not 
pray  with  Mr.  Requa,  he  said,  but  he  could  work  with  him, 
and  he  evinced  a  zeal  for  the  good  of  his  savage  relations  and 
neighbors.  Indeed,  though  his  father  had  been  French,  and 
he  himself  had  been  brought  up  in  communion  with  the 
whites,  he  evidently  was  more  of  an  Indian  in  his  tastes,  and 
his  heart  yearned  toward  his  mother's  nation.  When  he 
talked  to  me  of  the  wrongs  and  insults  that  the  poor  Indians 
suffered  in  their  intercourse  with  the  rough  settlers  on  the 
frontiers;  when  he  described  the  precarious  and  degraded 
state  of  the  Osage  tribe,  diminished  in  numbers,  broken  in 
spirit,  and  almost  living  on  sufferance  in  the  land  where  they 
once  figured  so  heroically,  I  could  see  his  veins  swell,  and  his 
nostrils  distend  with  indignation ;  but  he  would  check  the  feel 
ing  with  a  strong  exertion  of  Indian  self-command,  and,  in  a 
manner,  drive  it  back  into  his  bosom. 

He  did  not  hesitate  to  relate  an  instance  wherein  he  had 
joined  his  kindred  Osages,  in  pursuing  and  avenging  them 
selves  on  a  party  of  white  men  who  had  committed  a  flagrant 


A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  103 

outrage  upon  them ;  and  I  found,  in  the  encounter  that  took 
place,  Beatte  had  shown  himself  the  complete  Indian. 

He  had  more  than  once  accompanied  his  Osage  relations  in 
their  wars  with  the  Pawnees,  and  related  a  skirmish  which 
took  place  on  the  borders  of  these  very  hunting  grounds,  in 
which  several  Pawnees  were  killed.  We  should  pass  near  the 
place,  he  said,  in  the  course  of  our  tour,  and  the  unburied 
bones  and  skulls  of  the  slain  were  still  to  be  seen  there.  The 
surgeon  of  the  troop,  who  was  present  at  our  conversation, 
pricked  up  his  ears  at  this  intelligince.  He  was  something  of 
a  phrenologist,  and  offered  Beatte  a  handsome  reward  if  he 
would  procure  him  one  of  the  skulls. 

Beatte  regarded  him  for  a  moment  with  a  look  of  stern  sur 
prise. 

"No !"  said  he  at  length,  "  dat  too  bad !  I  have  heart  strong 
enough— I  no  care  kill,  but  let  the  dead  alone  /" 

He  added,  that  once  in  travelling  with  a  party  of  white  men, 
he  had  slept  in  the  same  tent  with  a  doctor,  and  found  that  he 
had  a  Pawnee  skull  among  his  baggage :  he  at  once  renounced 
the  doctor's  tent,  and  his  fellowship.  "  He  try  to  coax  me," 
said  Beatte,  "but  I  say  no,  we  must  part— I  no  keep  such 
company." 

In  the  temporary  depression  of  his  spirits,  Beatte  gave  way 
to.  those  superstitious  forebodings  to  which  Indians  are  prone. 
He  had  sat  for  some  time,  with  his  cheek  upon  his  hand, 
crazing  into  the  fire.  I  found  his  thoughts  were  wandering 
back  to  his  humble  home,  on  the  banks  of  the  Neosho ;  he  was 
sure,  he  said,  that  he  should  find  some  one  of  his  family  ill,  or 
dead,  on  his  return:  his  left  eye  had  twitched  and  twinkled 
for  two  days  past ;  an  omen  which  always  boded  some  misfor 
tune  of  the  kind. 

Such  are  the  trivial  circumstances  which,  when  magnified 
into  omens,  will  shake  the  souls  of  these  men  of  iron.  The 
least  sign  of  mystic  and  sinister  portent  is  sufficient  to  turn  a 
hunter  or  a  warrior  from  his  course,  or  to  fill  his  mind  with 
apprehensions  of  impending  evil.  It  is  this  superstitious  pro 
pensity,  common  to  the  solitary  and  savage  rovers  of  the 
wilderness,  that  gives  such  powerful  influence  to  the  prophet 
and  the  dreamer. 

The  Osages,  with  whom  Beatte  had  passed  much  of  his  life, 
retain  these  superstitious  fancies  and  rites  in  much  of  their 
original  force.  They  all  believe  in  the  existence  of  the  soul 
after  its  "separation  from  the  body,  and  that  it  carries  with  it 


104  A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

all  its  mortal  tastes  and  habitudes.  At  an  Osage  village  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Beatte,  one  of  the  chief  warriors  lost  an  only 
child,  a  beautiful  girl,  of  a  very  tender  age.  All  her  playthings 
were  buried  with  her.  Her  favorite  little  horse,  also,  was 
killed,  and  laid  in  the  grave  beside  her,  that  she  might  have  it 
to  ride  in  the  land  of  spirits. 

I  will  here  add  a  little  story,  which  I  picked  up  in  the  course 
of  my  tour  through  Beatte's  country,  and  which  illustrates  the 
superstitions  of  his  Osage  kindred.  A  large  party  of  Osages 
had  been  encamped  for  some  time  on  the  borders  of  a  fine 
stream,  called  the  Nickanansa.  Among  them  was  a  young 
hunter,  one  of  the  bravest  and  most  graceful  of  the  tribe,  who 
was  to  be  married  to  an  Osage  girl,  who,  for  her  beauty,  was 
called  the  Flower  of  the  Prairies.  The  young  hunter  left  her 
for  a  time  among  her  relatives  in  the  encampment,  and  went 
to  St.  Louis,  to  dispose  of  the  products  of  his  hunting,  and 
purchase  ornaments  for  his  bride.  After  an  absence  of  some 
weeks,  he  returned  to  the  banks  of  the  Nickanansa,  but  the 
camp  was  no  longer  there ;  and  the  bare  frames  of  the  lodges 
and  the  brands  of  extinguished  fires  alone  marked  the  place. 
At  a  distance  he  beheld  a  female  seated,  as  if  weeping,  by  the 
side  of  the  stream.  It  was  his  affianced  bride.  He  ran  to  em 
brace  her,  but  she  turned  mournfully  away.  He  dreaded  lest 
some  evil  had  befallen  the  camp. 

"  Where  are  our  people?"  cried  he. 

"  They  are  gone  to  the  banks  of  the  Wagrushka." 

"  And  what  art  thou  doing  here  alone?" 

' '  Waiting  for  thee. " 

"  Then  let  us  hasten  to  join  our  people  on  the  banks  of  the 
Wagrushka." 

He  gave  her  his  pack  to  carry,  and  walked  ahead,  according 
to  the  Indian  custom. 

They  came  to  where  the  smoke  of  the  distant  camp  was  seen 
rising  from  the  woody  margin  of  the  stream.  The  girl  seated 
herself  at  the  foot  of  a  tree.  "  It  is  not  proper  for  us  to  return 
together,"  said  she;  "  I  will  wait  here." 

The  young  hunter  proceeded  to  the  camp  alone,  and  was  re 
ceived  by  his  relations  with  gloomy  countenances. 

"What  evil  has  happened,"  said  he,  "that  ye  are  all  so 
sad?" 

No  one  replied. 

He  turned  to  his  favorite  sister,  and  bade  her  go  forth,  seek 
his  bride,  and  conduct  her  to  the  camp. 


A   TOUR  ON  TIIE  PRAIRIES.  105 

"  Alas!  "cried  she,  "how  shall  I  seek  her?  She  died  a  few 
days  since." 

The  relations  of  the  young  girl  now  surrounded  him,  weep 
ing  and  wailing ;  but  he  refused  to  believe  the  dismal  tidings. 
"But  a  few  moments  since,"  cried  he,  "I  left  her  alone  and  in 
health;  come  with  me,  and  I  will  conduct  you  to  her." 

He  led  the  way  to  the  tree  where  she  had  seated  herself,  but 
she  was  no  longer  there,  and  his  pack  lay  on  the  ground.  The 
fatal  truth  struck  him  to  the  heart ;  he  fell  to  the  ground  dead. 

I  give  this  simple  story  almost  in  the  words  in  which  it  was 
related  to  me,  as  I  lay  by  the  fire  in  an  evening  encampment 
on  the  banks  of  the  haunted  stream  where  it  is  said  to  have 
happened. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

A  SECRET  EXPEDITION. — DEER  BLEATING. — MAGIC  BALLS. 

ON  the  following  morning  we  were  rejoined  by  the  rangers 
who  had  remained  at  the  last  encampment,  to  seek  for  the 
stray  horses.  They  had  tracked  them  for  a  considerable  dis 
tance  through  bush  and  brake,  and  across  streams,  until  they 
found  them  cropping  the  herbage  on  the  edge  of  a  prairie. 
Their  heads  were  in  the  direction  of  the  fort,  and  they  were 
evidently  grazing  their  way  homeward,  heedless  of  the  un 
bounded  freedom  of  the  prairie  so  suddenly  laid  open  to  them. 

About  noon  the  weather  held  up,  and  I  observed  a  mysteri 
ous  consultation  going  on  between  our  half-breeds  and  Tonish ; 
it  ended  in  a  request  that  we  would  dispense  with  the  services 
of  the  latter  for  a  few  hours,  and  permit  him  to  join  his  com 
rades  in  a  grand  foray.  We  objected  that  Tonish  was  too 
much  disabled  by  aches  and  pains  for  such  an  undertaking ; 
but  he  was  wild  with  eagerness  for  the  mvsterious  enterprise, 
and,  when  permission  was  given  him,  seemed  to  forget  all  his 
ailments  in  an  instant. 

In  a  short  time  the  trio  were  equipped  and  on  horseback ; 
with  rifles  on  their  shoulders  and  handkerchiefs  twisted  round 
their  heads,  evidently  bound  for  a  grand  scamper.  As  they 
passed  by  the  different  lodges  of  the  camp,  the  vainglorious 
little  Frenchman  could  not  help  boasting  to  the  right  and  left 
of  the  great  things  he  was  about  to  achieve ;  though  the  taci 
turn  Beatte,  who  rode  in  advance,  would  every  now  and  then 


106  A   TOUR  ON  TUB  PRAIRIES. 

check  his  horse,  and  look  back  at  him  with  an  air  of  stern  re 
buke.  It  was  hard,  however,  to  make  the  loquacious  Tonish 
play  '"  Indian." 

Several  of  the  hunters,  likewise,  sallied  forth,  and  the  prime 
old  woodman,  Ryan,  came  back  early  in  the  afternoon,  with 
ample  spoil,  having  killed  a  buck  and  two  fat  does.  I  drew 
near  to  a  group  of  rangers  that  had  gathered  round  him  as  he 
stood  by  the  spoil,  and  found  they  were  discussing  the  merits 
of  a  stratagem  sometimes  used  in  deer  hunting.  This  consists 
in  imitating,  with  a  small  instrument  called  a  bleat,  the  cry  of 
the  fawn,  so  as  to  lure  the  doe  within  reach  of  the  rifle.  There 
are  bleats  of  various  kinds,  suited  to  calm,  or  windy  weather, 
and  to  the  age  of  the  fawn.  The  poor  animal,  deluded  by 
them,  in  its  anxiety  about  its  young,  will  sometimes  advance 
close  up  to  the  hunter.  "  I  once  bleated  a  doe,"  said  a  young 
hunter,  ' k  until  it  came  within  twenty  yards  of  me,  and  pre 
sented  a  sure  mark.  I  levelled  my  rifle  three  times,  but  had 
not  the  heart  to  shoot,  for  the  poor  doe  looked  so  wistfully, 
that  it  in  a  manner  made  my  heart  yearn.  I  thought  of  my 
own  mother,  and  how  anxious  she  used  to  be  about  me  when  I 
was  a,  child ;  so  to  put  an  end  to  the  matter,  I  gave  a  halloo, 
and  started  the  doe  out  of  rifle-shot  in  a  moment. " 

' '  And  you  did  right, "  cried  honest  old  Eyan.  ' '  For  my  part, 
I  never  could  bring  myself  to  bleating  deer.  I've  been  with 
hunters  who  had  bleats,  and  have  made  them  throw  "them 
away.  It  is  a  rascally  trick  to  take  advantage  of  a  mother's 
love  for  her  young." 

Toward  evening  our  three  worthies  returned  from  their 
mysterious  foray.  The  tongue  of  Tonish  gave  notice  of  their 
approach  long  before  they  came  in  sight ;  for  he  was  vocifer 
ating  at  the  top  of  his  lungs,  and  rousing  the  attention  of  the 
whole  camp.  The  lagging  gait  and  reeking  flanks  of  their 
horses,  gave  evidence  of  hard  riding ;  and,  on  nearer  approach, 
we  found  them  hung  round  with  meat  like  a  butcher's  sham 
bles.  In  fact,  they  tiad  been  scouring  an  immense  prairie  that 
extended  beyond  the  forest,  and  which  was  covered  with  herds 
of  buffalo.  Of  this  prairie,  and  the  animals  upon  it,  Beatte 
had  received  intelligence  a  few  days  before,  in  his  conversation 
with  the  Osages,  but  had  kept  the  information  a  secret  from 
the  rangers,  that  he  and  his  comrades  might  have  the  first  dash 
at  the  game.  They  had  contented  themselves  with  killing  four; 
though,  if  Tonish  might  be  believed,  they  might  have  slain 
them  by  scores. 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  107 

These  tidings,  and  the  buffalo  meat  brought  home  in  evi 
dence,  spread  exultation  through  the  camp,  and  every  one 
looked  forward  with  joy  to  a  buffalo  hunt  on  the  prairies. 
Tonish  was  again  the  oracle  of  the  camp,  and  held  forth  by  the 
hour  to  a  knot  of  listeners,  crouched  round  the  fire,  with  their 
shoulders  up  to  their  ears.  He  was  now  more  boastful  than 
ever  of  his  skill  as  a  marksman.  All  his  want  of  success  in  the 
early  part  of  our  inarch  he  attributed  to  being  "  out  of  luck," 
if  not  "spell-bound;"  and  finding  himself  listened  to  with  ap 
parent  credulity,  gave  an  instance  of  the  kind,  which  he  de 
clared  had  happened  to  himself,  but  which  was  evidently  a 
tale  picked  up  among  his  relations,  the  Osages. 

According  to  this  account,  when  about  fourteen  years  of  age, 
as  he  was  one  day  hunting,  he  saw  a  white  deer  come  out  from 
a  ravine.  Crawling  near  to  get  a  shot,  he  beheld  another  and 
another  come  forth,  until  there  were  seven,  all  as  white  as 
snow.  Having  crept  sufficiently  near,  he  singled  one  out  and 
fired,  but  without  effect ;  the  deer  remained  unfrightened.  He 
loaded  and  fired  again  and  missed.  Thus  he  continued  firing 
and  missing  until  all  his  ammunition  was  expended,  and  the 
deer  remained  without  a  wound.  He  returned  home  despair 
ing  of  his  skill  as  a  marksman,  but  was  consoled  by  an  old 
Osage  hunter.  These  white  deer,  said  he,  have  a  charmed  life, 
and  can  only  be  killed  by  bullets  of  a  particular  kind. 

The  old  Indian  cast  several  balls  for  Tonish,  but  would  not 
suffer  him  to  be  present  on  the  occasion,  nor  inform  him  of  the 
ingredients  and  mystic  ceremonials. 

Provided  with  these  balls,  Tonish  again  set  out  in  quest  of 
the  white  deer,  and  succeeded  in  finding  them.  He  tried  at 
first  with  ordinary  balls,  but  missed  as  before.  A  magic  ball, 
however,  immediately  brought  a  fine  buck  to  the  ground. 
Whereupon  the  rest  of  the  herd  immediately  disappeared  and 
were  never  seen  again. 

October  29th. — The  morning  opened  gloomy  and  lowering; 
but  toward  eight  o'clock  the  sun  struggled  forth  and  lighted 
up  the  forest,  and  the  notes  of  the  bugle  gave  signal  to  pre 
pare  for  marching.  Now  began  a  scene  of  bustle,  and  clamor, 
and  gayety.  Some  were  scampering  and  brawling  after 
their  horses,  some  were  riding  in  bare-backed,  and  driving 
in  the  horses  of  their  comrades.  Some  were  stripping  the 
poles  of  the  wet  blankets  that  had  served  for  shelters ;  others 
packing  up  with  all  possible  dispatch,  and  loading  the  bag 
gage  horses  as  they  arrived,  while  others  were  cracking  off 


108  A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

their  damp  rifles  and  charging  them  afresh,  to  be  ready  for 
the  sport. 

About  ten  o'clock,  we  began  our  march.  I  loitered  in  the 
rear  of  the  troop  as  it  forded  the  turbid  brook,  and  defiled 
through  the  labyrinths  of  the  forest.  I  always  felt  disposed  to 
linger  until  the  last  straggler  disappeared  among  the  trees  arid 
the  distant  note  of  the  bugle  died  upon  the  ear,  that  I  might 
behold  the  wilderness  relapsing  into  silence  and  solitude.  In 
the  present  instance,  the  deserted  scene  of  our  late  bustling  en 
campment  had  a  forlorn  and  desolate  appearance.  The  sur 
rounding  forest  had  been  in  many  places  trampled  into  a  quag 
mire.  Trees  felled  and  partly  hewn  in  pieces,  and  scattered  in 
huge  fragments ;  tent-poles  stripped  of  their  covering ;  smoul 
dering  fires,  with  great  morsels  of  roasted  venison  and  buffalo 
meat,  standing  in  wooden  spits  before  them,  hacked  and 
slashed  by  the  knives  of  hungry  hunters ;  while  around  were 
strewed  the  hides,  the  horns,  the  antlers,  and  bones  of  buffa 
loes  and  deer,  with  uncooked  joints,  and  unplucked  turkeys, 
left  behind  with  that  reckless  improvidence  and  wastefulness 
which  young  hunters  are  apt  to  indulge  when  in  a  neighbor 
hood  where  game  abounds.  In  the  meantime  a  score  or  two 
of  turkey-buzzards,  or  vultures,  were  already  on  the  wing, 
wheeling  their  magnificent  flight  high  in  the  air,  and  preparing 
for  a  descent  upon  the  camp  as  soon  as  it  should  be  abandoned. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

THE  GRAND  PRAIRIE. — A  BUFFALO  HUNT. 

AFTER  proceeding  about  two  hours  in  a  southerly  direction, 
we  emerged  toward  mid-day  from  the  dreary  belt  of  the  Cross 
Timber,  and  to  our  infinite  delight  beheld  "the  great  Prairie" 
stretching  to  the  right  and  left  before  us.  We  could  distinctly 
trace  the  meandering  course  of  the  main  Canadian,  and  various 
smaller  streams,  by  the  strips  of  green  forest  that  bordered 
them.  The  landscape  was  vast  and  beautiful.  There  is  always 
an  expansion  of  feeling  in  looking  upon  these  boundless  and 
fertile^  wastes ;  but  I  was  doubly  conscious  of  it  after  emerging 
from  our  "close  dungeon  of  innumerous  boughs." 

From  a  rising  ground  Beattc  pointed  out  the  place  where  he 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  109 

and  his  comrades  had  killed  the  buffaloes ;  and  we  beheld  sev 
eral  black  objects  moving  in  the  distance,  which  he  said  were 
part  of  the  herd.  The  Captain  determined  to  shapo  his  course 
to  a  woody  bottom  about  a  mile  distant,  and  to  encamp  there 
for  a  day  or  two,  by  way  of  having  a  regular  buffalo  hunt,  and 
getting  a  supply  of  provisions.  As  the  troop  denied  along  the 
slope  of  the  hill  toward  the  camping  ground,  Beatte  proposed 
to  my  messmates  and  myself,  that  we  should  put  ourselves 
under  his  guidance,  promising  to  take  us  where  we  should 
have  plenty  of  sport.  Leaving  the  line  of  march,  there 
fore,  we  diverged  toward  the  prairie ;  traversing  a  small  val 
ley,  and  ascending  a  gentle  swell  of  land.  As  we  reached 
the  summit,  we  beheld  a  gang  of  wild  horses  about  a  mile  off. 
Beatte  was  immediately  on  the  alert,  and  no  longer  thought  of 
buffalo  hunting.  He  was  mounted  on  his  powerful  half- wild 
horse,  with  a  lariat  coiled  at  the  saddle-bow,  and  set  off  in  pur 
suit  ;  while  we  remained  on  a  rising  ground  watching  his  ma 
noeuvres  with  great  solicitude.  Taking  advantage  of  a  strip  of 
woodland,  he  stole  quietly  along,  so  as  to  get  close  to  them  be 
fore  he  was  perceived.  The  moment  they  caught  sight  of  him 
a  grand  scamper  took  place.  We  watched  him  skirting  along 
the  horizon  like  a  privateer  in  full  chase  of  a  merchantman ; 
at  length  he  passed  over  the  brow  of  a  ridge,  and  down  into  a 
shallow  valley ;  in  a  few  moments  he  was  on  the  opposite  hill, 
and  close  upon  one  of  the  horses.  He  was  soon  head  and  head, 
and  appeared  to  be  trying  to  noose  his  prey ;  but  they  both  dis 
appeared  again  below  the  hill,  and  we  saw  no  more  of  them. 
It  turned  out  afterward  that  he  had  noosed  a  powerful  horse, 
but  could  not  hold  him,  and  had  lost  his  lariat  in  the  attempt. 

While  we  were  waiting  for  his  return,  we  perceived  two 
buffalo  bulls  descending  a  slope,  toward  a  stream,  which 
wound  through  a  ravine  fringed  with  trees.  The  young  Count 
and  myself  endeavored  to  get  near  them  under  covert  of  the 
trees.  They  discovered  us  while  we  were  yet  three  or  four 
hundred  yards  off,  and  turning  about,  retreated  up  the  rising 
ground.  We  urged  our  horses  across  the  ravine,  and  gave 
chase.  The  immense  weight  of  head  and  shoulders  causes  the 
buffalo  to  labor  heavily  up  hill ;  but  it  accelerates  his  descent. 
We  had  the  advantage,  therefore,  and  gained  rapidly  upon  the 
fugitives,  though  it  was  difficult  to  get  our  horses  to  approach 
them,  their  very  scent  inspiring  them  with  terror.  The  Count, 
who  had  a  double-barrelled  gun  loaded  with  ball,  fired,  but  it 
missed.  The  bulls  now  altered  their  comse,  and  galloped  down 


110  -4    TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

hill  with  headlong  rapidity.  As  they  ran  in  different  direo 
tions,  we  each  singled  out  one  and  separated.  I  was  provided 
with  a  brace  of  veteran  brass-barrelled  pistols,  which  I  had 
borrowed  at  Fort  Gibson,  and  which  had  evidently  seen  some 
service.  Pistols  are  very  effective  in  buffalo  hunting,  as  the 
hunter  can  ride  up  close  to  the  animal,  and  fire  at  it  while  at 
full  speed ;  whereas  the  long  heavy  rifles  used  on  the  frontier, 
cannot  be  easily  managed,  nor  discharged  with  accurate  aim 
from  horseback.  My  object,  therefore,  was  to  get  within 
pistol  shot .  of  the  buffalo.  This  was  no  very  easy  matter.  I 
was  well  mounted  on  a  horse  of  excellent  speed  and  bottom, 
that  seemed  eager  for  the  chase,  and  soon  overtook  the  game ; 
but  the  moment  he  came  nearly  parallel,  he  would  keep  sheer 
ing  off,  with  ears  forked  and  pricked  forward,  and  every 
symptom  of  aversion  and  alarm.  It  was  no  wonder.  Of  all 
animals,  a  buffalo,  when  close  pressed  by  the  hunter,  has  an 
aspect  the  most  diabolical.  His  two  short  black  horns,  curve 
out  of  a  huge  frontier  of  shaggy  hair ;  his  eyes  glow  like  coals ; 
fis  mouth  is  open,  his  tongue  parched  and  drawn  up  into  a 
half  crescent ;  his  tail  is  erect,  and  tufted  and  whisking  about 
in  the  air,  he  is  a  perfect  picture  of  mingled  rage  and  terror. 

It  was  with  difficulty  I  urged  my  horse  sufficiently  near, 
when,  taking  aim,  to  my  chagrin,  both  pistols  missed  fire. 
Unfortunately  the  locks  of  these  veteran  weapons  were  so 
much  worn,  that  in  the  gallop,  the  priming  had  been  shaken 
out  of  the  pans.  At  the  snapping  of  the  last  pistol  I  was  close 
upon  the  buffalo,  when,  in  his  despair,  he  turned  round  with  a 
sudden  snort  and  rushed  upon  me.  My  horse  wheeled  about 
as  if  on  a  pivot,  made  a  convulsive  spring,  and,  as  I  had  been 
leaning  on  one  side  with  pistol  extended,  I  came  near  being 
thrown  at  the  f««t  of  the  buffalo. 

Three  or  four  bounds  of  the  horse  carried  us  out  of  the  reach 
of  the  enemy ;  who,  having  morely  turned  in  desperate  self- 
defence,  quickly  resumed  his  flight.  As  soon  as  I  could  gather 
in  my  panic-stricken  horse,  and  prime  the  pistols  afresh,  I 
again  spurred  in  pursuit  of  the  buffalo,  who  had  slackened  his 
speed  to  take  breath.  On  my  approach  he  again  set  off  full 
tilt,  heaving  himself  forward  with  a  heavy  rolling  gallop,  dash 
ing  with  headlong  precipitation  through  brakes  and  ravines, 
while  several  deer  and  wolves,  startled  from  their  coverts  by 
his  thundering  career,  ran  helter-skelter  to  right  and  left  across 
the  waste. 

A  gallop  across  the  prairies  in  pursuit  of  game  is  by  no 


A   TOUR  ON  TEE  PRAIRIES.  Ill 

means  so  smooth  a  career  as  those  may  imagine,  who  have 
only  the  idea  of  an  open  level  plain.  It  is  true,  the  prairies  of 
the  hunting  ground  are  not  so  much  entangled  with  flowering 
plants  and  long  herbage  as  the  lower  prairies,  and  are  princi 
pally  covered  with  short  buffalo  grass ;  but  they  are  diversi 
fied  by  hill  and  dale,  and  where  most  level,  are  apt  to  be  cut 
up  by  deep  rifts  and  ravines,  made  by  torrents  after  rains; 
and  which,  yawning  from  an  even  surface,  are  almost  like 
pitfalls  in  the  way  of  the  hunter,  checking  him  suddenly,  when 
in  full  career,  or  subjecting  him  to  the  risk  of  limb  and  life. 
The  plains,  too,  are  beset  by  burrowing  holes  of  small  animals, 
in  which  the  horse  is  apt  to  sink  to  the  fetlock,  and  throw  both 
himself  and  his  rider.  The  late  rain  had  covered  some  parts 
of  the  prairie,  where  the  ground  was  hard,  with  a  thin  sheet 
of  water,  through  which  the  horse  had  to  splash  his  way.  In 
other  parts  there  were  innumerable  shallow  hollows,  eight  or 
ten  feet  in  diameter,  made  by  the  buffaloes,  who  wallow  in 
sand  and  mud  like  swine.  These  being  filled  with  water, 
shone  like  mirrors,  so  that  the  horse  was  continually  leaping 
over  them  or  springing  on  one  side.  We  had  reached,  too,  a 
rough  part  of  the  prairie,  very  much  broken  and  cut  up ;  the 
buffalo,  who  was  running  for  life,  took  no  heed  to  his  course, 
plunging  down  break-neck  ravines,  where  it  was  necessary  to 
skirt  the  borders  in  search  of  a  safer  descent.  At  length  we 
came  to  where  a  winter  stream  had  torn  a  deep  chasm  across 
the  whole  prairie,  leaving  open  jagged  rocks,  and  forming  a 
long  glen  bordered  by  steep  crumbling  cliffs  of  mingled  stone 
and  clay.  Down  one  of  these  the  buffalo  flung  himself,  half 
tumbling,  half  leaping,  and  then  scuttled  along  the  bottom; 
while  I,  seeing  all  further  pursuit  useless,  pulled  up,  and 
gazed  quietly  after  him  from  the  border  of  the  cliff,  until  he 
disappeared  amidst  the  windings  of  the  ravine. 

Nothing  now  remained  but  to  turn  my  steed  and  rejoin  my 
companions.  Here  at  first  was  some  little  difficulty.  The 
ardor  of  the  chase  had  betrayed  me  into  a  long,  heedless  gallop. 
I  now  found  myself  in  the  midst  of  a  lonely  waste,  in  which 
the  prospect  was  bounded  by  undulating  swells  of  land,  naked 
and  uniform,  where,  from  the  deficiency  of  landmarks  and 
distinct  features,  an  inexperienced  man  may  become  be 
wildered,  and  lose  his  way  as  readily  as  in  the  wastes  of  the 
ocean.  The  day,  too,  was  overcast,  so  that  I  could  not  guide 
myself  by  the  sun;  my  only  mode  was  to  retrace  the  track 
my  horse  had  made  in  coming,  though  this  I  would  often 


112  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

lose  sight  of,  where  the  ground  was  covered  with  parched 
herbage. 

To  one  unaccustomed  to  it,  there  is  something  inexpressibly 
lonely  in  the  solitude  of  a  prairie.  The  loneliness  of  a  forest 
seems  nothing  to  it.  There  the  view  is  shut  in  by  trees,  and 
the  imagination  is  left  free  to  picture  some  livelier  scene  be 
yond.  But  here  we  have  an  immense  extent  01  landscape 
without  a  sign  of  human  existence.  We-  have  the  conscious 
ness  of  being  far,  far  beyond  the  bounds  of  human  habita- 
tation ;  we  feel  as  if  moving  in  the  midst  of  a  desert  world. 
As  my  horse  lagged  slowly  back  over  the  scenes  of  our  late 
scamper,  and  the  delirium  of  the  chase  had  passed  away,  I 
was  peculiarly  sensible  to  these  circumstances.  The  silence  of 
the  waste  was  now  and  then  broken  by  the  cry  of  a  distant 
flock  of  pelicans,  stalking  like  spectres  about  a  shallow  pool ; 
sometimes  by  the  sinister  croaking  of  a  raven  in  the  air,  while 
occasionally  a  scoundrel  wolf  would  scour  off  from  before  me : 
and,  having  attained  a  safe  distance,  would  sit  down  and  howl 
and  whine  with  tones  that  gave  a  dreariness  to  the  surround 
ing  solitude. 

After  pursuing  my  way  for  some  time,  I  descried  a  horseman 
on  the  edge  of  a  distant  hill,  and  soon  recognized  him  to  be  the 
Count.  He  had  been  equally  unsuccessful  Avith  myself;  we 
were  shortly  after  rejoined  by  our  worthy  comrade,  the  Vir 
tuoso,  who,  with  spectacles  on  nose,  had  made  two  or  three 
ineffectual  shots  from  horseback. 

We  determined  not  to  seek  the  camp  until  we  had  made 
one  more  effort.  Casting  our  eyes  about  the  surrounding 
waste,  we  descried  a  herd  of  buffalo  about  two  miles  dis 
tant,  scattered  apart,  and  quietly  grazing  near  a  small  strip 
of  trees  and  bushes.  It  required  but  little  stretch  of  fancy 
to  picture  them  so  many  cattle  grazing  on  the  edge  of  a 
common,  and  that  the  grove  might  shelter  some  lowly  farm 
house. 

We  now  formed  our  plan  to  circumvent  the  herd,  and  by 
getting  on  the  other  side  of  them,  to  hunt  them  in  the  direction 
where  we  knew  our  camp  to  be  situated :  otherwise  the  pursuit 
might  take  us  to  such  a  distance  as  to  render  it  impossible  to 
find  our  way  back  before  nightfall.  Taking  a  wide  circuit, 
therefore,  we  moved  slowly  and  cautiously,  pausing  occa 
sionally,  when  we  saw  any  of  the  herd  desist  from  grazing. 
The  wind  fortunately  set  from  them,  otherwise  they  might 
have  scented  us  and  havo  taken  the  alarm.  In  this  way  wo 


A  TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  113 

succeeded  in  getting  round  the  herd  without  disturbing  it. 
It  consisted  of  about  forty  head,  bulls,  cows,  and  calves. 
Separating  to  some  distance  from  each  other,  we  now  ap 
proached  slowly  in  a  parallel  line,  hoping  by  degrees  to  steal 
near  without  exciting  attention.  They  began,  however,  to 
move  off  quietly,  stopping  at  every  step  or  two  to  graze,  when 
suddenly  a  bull  that,  unobserved  by  us,  had  been  taking  his 
siesta  under  a  clump  of  trees  to  our  left,  roused  himself  from 
his  lair,  and  hastened  to  join  his  companions.  We  were  still 
at  a  considerable  distance,  but  the  game  had  taken  the  alarm. 
We  quickened  our  pace,  they  broke  into  a  gallop,  and  now 
commenced  a  full  chase. 

As  the  ground  was  level,  they  shouldered  along  with  great 
speed,  following  each  other  in  a  line ;  two  or  three  bulls  bring 
ing  up  the  rear,  the  last  of  whom,  from  his  enormous  size  and 
venerable  frontlet,  and  beard  of  sunburnt  hair,  looked  like  the 
patriarch  of  the  herd ;  and  as  if  he  might  long  have  reigned 
the  monarch  of  the  prairie. 

There  is  a  mixture  of  the  awful  and  the  comic  in  the  look  of 
these  huge  animals,  as  they  bear  their  great  bulk  forward, 
with  an  up  and  down  motion  of  the  unwieldy  head  and 
shoulders ;  their  tail  cocked  up  like  the  queue  of  Pantaloon  in 
a  pantomime,  the  end  whisking  about  in  a  fierce  yet  whimsical 
style,  and  their  eyes  glaring  venomously  with  an  expression 
of  fright  and  fury. 

For  some  time  I  kept  parallel  with  the  line,  without  being 
able  to  force  my  horse  within  pistol  shot,  so  much  had  he  been 
alarmed  by  the  assault  of  the  buffalo  in  the  preceding  chase. 
At  length  I  succeeded,  but  was  again  balked  by  my  pistols 
missing  fire.  My  companions,  whose  horses  were  less  fleet, 
and  more  way-worn,  could  not  overtake  the  herd ;  at  length 
Mr.  L.,  who  was  in  the  rear  of  the  line,  and  losing  ground, 
levelled  his  double-barrelled  gun,  and  fired  a  long  raking  shot. 
It  struck  a  buffalo  just  above  the  loins,  broke  its  back-bone, 
and  brought  it  to  the  ground.  He  stopped  and  alighted  to 
dispatch  his  prey,  when  borrowing  his  gun,  which  had  yet  a 
charge  remaining  in  it,  I  put  my  horse  to  his  speed,  again  over 
took  the  herd  which  was  thundering  along,  pursued  by  the 
Count.  With  my  present  weapon  there  was  no  need  of  urging 
my  horse  to  such  close  quarters;  galloping  along  parallel, 
therefore,  I  singled  out  a  buffalo,  and  by  a  fortunate  shot 
brought  it  down  on  the  spot.  The  ball  had  struck  a  vital  part ; 
it  could  not  move  from  the  place  where  it  fell,  but  lay  there 


114  A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

struggling  in  mortal  agony,  while  the  rest  of  the  herd  kept  on 
their  headlong  career  across  the  prairie. 

Dismounting,  I  now  fettered  my  horse  to  prevent  his  stray 
ing,  and  advanced  to  contemplate  my  victim.  I  am  nothing  of 
a  sportsman ;  I  had  been  prompted  to  this  unwonted  exploit  by 
the  magnitude  of  the  game,  and  the  excitement  of  an  adven 
turous  chase.  Now  that  the  excitement  was  over,  I  could  not 
but  look  with  commiseration  upon  the  poor  animal  that  lay 
struggling  and  bleeding  at  my  feet.  His  very  size  and  impor 
tance,  which  had  before  inspired  ma  with  eagerness,  now 
increased  my  compunction:  It  seemed  as  if  I  had  inflicted 
pain  in  proportion  to  the  bulk  of  my  victim,  and  as  if  it  were 
a  hundred-fold  greater  waste  of  life  than  there  would  have 
been  in  the  destruction  of  an  animal  of  inferior  size. 

To  add  to  these  after-qualms  of  conscience,  the  poor  animal 
lingered  in  his  agony.  He  had  evidently  received  a  mortal 
wound ,  but  death  might  be  long  in  coming.  It  would  not  do 
to  leave  him  here  to  be  torn  piecemeal,  while  yet  alive,  by  the 
wolves  that  had  already  snuffed  his  blood,  and  were  skulking 
and  howling  at  a  distance,  and  waiting  for  my  departure ;  and 
by  the  ravens  that  were  flapping  about,  croaking  dismally  in 
the  air.  It  became  now  an  act  of  mercy  to  give  him  his 
quietus,  and  put  him  out  of  his  misery.  I  primed  one  of  the 
pistols,  therefore,  and  advanced  close  up  to  the  buffalo.  To 
inflict  a  wound  thus  in  cold  blood,  I  found  a  totally  different 
thing  from  firing  in  the  heat  of  the  chase.  Taking  aim,  how 
ever,  just  behind  the  fore-shoulder,  my  pistol  for  once  proved 
true;  the  ball  must  have  passed  through  the  heart,  for  the 
animal  gave  one  convulsive  throe  and  expired. 

While  I  stood  meditating  and  moralizing  over  the  wreck  I 
had  so  wantonly  produced,  with  my  horse  grazing  near  me,  I 
was  rejoined  by  my  fellow-sportsman,  the  Virtuoso;  who, 
being  a  man  of  universal  adroitness,  and  withal,  more  experi 
enced  and  hardened  in  the  gentle  art  of  "  venerie,"  soon  man 
aged  to  carve  out  the  tongue  of  the  buffalo,  and  delivered  it  to 
me  to  bear  back  to  the  camp  as  a  trophy. 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  H5 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

A  COMRADE  LOST. — A  SEARCH  FOR  THE  CAMP. — THE  COMMISSIONER. 
THE  WILD  HORSE,  AND  THE  BUFFALO. — A  WOLF  SERENADE. 

• 

OUR  solicitude  was  now  awakened  for  the  young  Count. 
With  his  usual  eagerness  and  impetuosity  he  had  persisted  in 
urging  his  jaded  horse  in  pursuit  of  the  herd,  unwilling  to 
return  without  having  likewise  killed  a  buffalo.  In  this  way 
he  had  kept  on  following  them,  hither  and  thither,  and 
occasionally  firing  an  ineffectual  shot,  until  by  degrees  horse 
man  and  herd  became  indistinct  in  the  distance,  and  at  length 
swelling  ground  and  strips  of  trees  and  thickets  hid  them 
entirely  from  sight. 

By  the  time  my  friend,  the  amateur,  joined  me,  the  young 
Count  had  been  long  lost  to  view.  We  held  a  consultation  on 
the  matter.  Evening  was  drawing  on.  Were  we  to  pursue 
him,  it  would  be  dark  before  we  should  overtake  him,  grant 
ing  we  did  not  entirely  lose  trace  of  him  in  the  gloom.  We 
should  then  be  too  much  bewildered  to  find  our  way  back  to 
the  encampment;  even  now,  our  return  would  be  difficult. 
We  determined,  therefore,  to  hasten  to  the  camp  as  speedily 
as  possible,  and  send  out  our  half-breeds,  and  some  of  the 
veteran  hunters,  skilled  in  cruising  about  the  prairies,  to 
search  for  our  companion. 

We  accordingly  set  forward  in  what  we  supposed  to  be  the 
direction  of  the  camp.  Our  weary  horses  could  hardly  be 
urged  beyond  a  walk.  The  twilight  thickened  upon  us;  the 
landscape  grew  gradually  indistinct ;  we  tried  in  vain  to  recog 
nize  various  landmarks  which  we  had  noted  in  the  morning. 
The  features  of  the  prairies  are  so  similar  as  to  baffle  the  eye 
of  any  but  an  Indian,  or  a  practised  woodman.  At  length 
night  closed  in.  We  hoped  to  see  the  distant  glare  of  camp- 
fires;  we  listened  to  catch  the  sound  of  the  bells  about  the 
necks  of  the  grazing  horses.  Once  or  twice  we  thought  we 
distinguished  them;  we  were  mistaken.  Nothing  was  to  be 
heard  but  a  monotonous  concert  of  insects,  with  now  and 
then  the  dismal  howl  of  wolves  mingling  with  the  night  breeze. 
We  began  to  think  of  halting  for  the  night,  and  bivouacking 
under  the  lee  of  some  thicket.  We  had  implements  to  strike  a 


116  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

light ;  there  was  plenty  of  firewood  at  hand,  and  the  tongues 
of  our  buffaloes  would  furnish  us  with  a  repast. 

Just  as  we  were  preparing  to  dismount,  we  heard  the  report 
of  a  rifle,  and  shortly  after,  the  notes  of  the  bugle,  calling  up 
the  night  guard.  Pushing  forward  in  that  direction,  the  canap 
tires  soon  broke  on  our  sight,  gleaming  at  a  distance  from 
among  the  thick  groves  of  an  alluvial  bottom. 

As  we  entered  the  camp,  we  found  it  a  scene  of  rude  liun- 
ters'  revelry  and  wassail.  There  had  been  a  grand  day's 
sport,  in  which  all  had  taken  a  part.  Eight  buffaloes  had  been 
killed;  roaring  fires  were  blazing  on  every  side;  all  hands 
were  feasting  upon  roasted  joints,  broiled  marrow-bones,  and 
the  juicy  hump,  far-famed  among  the  epicures  of  the  prairies. 
Eight  glad  were  we  to  dismount  and  partake  of  the  sturdy 
cheer,  for  we  had  been  on  our  weary  horses  since  morning 
without  tasting  food. 

As  to  our  worthy  friend,  the  Commissioner,  with  whom,  we 
had  parted  company  at  the  outset  of  this  eventful  day,  we 
found  him  lying  in  a  corner  of  the  tent,  much  the  worse  for 
wear,  in  the  course  of  a  successful  hunting  match. 

It  seems  that  our  man,  Beatte,  in  his  zeal  to  give  the  Com 
missioner  an  opportunity  of  distinguishing  himself,  and  grati 
fying  his  hunting  propensities,  had  mounted  him  upon  his 
half -wild  horse,  and  started  him  in  pursuit  of  a  huge  buffalo 
bull,  that  had  already  been  frightened  by  the  hunters.  The 
horse,  which  was  fearless  as  his  owner,  and,  like  him,  had  ?- 
considerable  spice  of  devil  in  his  composition,  and  who, 
besides,  had  been  made  familiar  with  the  game,  no  sooner 
came  in  sight  and  scent  of  the  buffalo,  than  he  set  off  full 
speed,  bearing  the  involuntary  hunter  hither  and  thither,  and 
whither  he  would  not— up  hill  and  down  hill — leaping  pools 
and  brooks — dashing  through  glens  and  gullies,  until  he  came 
up  with  the  game.  Instead  of  sheering  off,  he  crowded  upon 
the  buffalo.  The  Commissioner,  almost  in  self-defence,  dis 
charged  both  barrels  of  a  double-barrelled  gun  into  the  enemy. 
The  broadside  took  effect,  but  was  not  mortal.  The  buffalo 
turned  furiously  upon  his  pursuer ;  the  horse,  as  he  had  been 
taught  by  his  owner,  wheeled  off.  The  buffalo  plunged  after 
him.  The  worthy  Commissioner,  in  great  extremity,  drew 
his  sole  pistol  from  his  holster,  fired  it  off  as  a  stern -chaser, 
shot  the  buffalo  full  in  the  breast,  and  brought  him  lumbering 
forward  to  the  earth. 

The  Commissioner  returned  to  camp,  lauded  on  all  sides  for 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  117 

his  signal  exploit ;  but  grievously  battered  and  way-worn.  He 
had  been  a  hard  rider  perforce,  and  a  victor  in  spite  of  himself. 
He  turned  a  deaf  ear  to  all  compliments  and  congratulations ; 
had  but  little  stomach  for  the  hunter's  fare  placed  before  him, 
and  soon  retreated  to  stretch  his  limbs  in  the  tent,  declaring 
that  nothing  should  tempt  him  again  to  mount  that  half  devil 
Indian  "horse,  and  that  he  had  had  enough  of  buffalo  hunting 
for  the  rest  of  his  life. 

It  was  too  dark  now  to  send  any  one  in  search  of  the  young 
Count.  Guns,  however,  were  fired,  and  the  bugles  sounded 
from  time  to  time,  to  guide  him  to  the  camp,  if  by  chance  he 
should  straggle  within  hearing;  but  the  night  advanced  with 
out  his  making  his  appearance.  There  was  not  a  star  visible 
to  guide  him,  and  we  concluded  that  wherever  he  was,  he 
would  give  up  wandering  in  the  dark,  and  bivouac  until  day 
break. 

It  was  a  raw,  overcast  night.  The  carcasses  of  the  buffaloes 
killed  in  the  vicinity  of  the  camp  had  drawn  about  it  an  un 
usual  number  of  wolves,  who  kept  up  the  most  forlorn  concert 
of  whining  yells,  prolonged  into  dismal  cadences  and  inflex 
ions,  literally  converting  the  surrounding  waste  into  a  howling 
wilderness.  Nothing  is  more  melancholy  than  the  midnight  , 
howl  of  a  wolf  on  a  prairie.  What  rendered  the  gloom  and 
wildness  of  the  night  and  the  savage  concert  of  the  neighbor 
ing  waste  the  more  dreary  to  us,  was  the  idea  of  the  lonely  and 
exposed  situation  of  our  young  and  inexperienced  comrade. 
We  trusted,  however,  that  on  tlio  return  of  daylight,  he  would 
find  his  way  back  to  the  camp,  and  then  all  the  events  of  the 
night  would  be  remembered  only  as  so  many  savory  gratifica 
tions  of  his  passion  for  adventure. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

A  HUNT  FOR  A  LOST  COMRADE. 

THE  morning  dawned,  and  an  hour  or  two  passed  without 
any  tidings  of  the  Count.  We  began  to  feel  uneasiness  lest, 
having  no  compass.to  aid  him,  he  might  perplex  himself  and 
wander  in  some  opposite  direction.  Stragglers  are  thus  often 
lost  for  days ;  what  made  us  the  more  anxious  about  him  was, 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

that  he  had  no  provisions  with  him,  was  totally  unversed  in 
"woodcraft,"  and  liable  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  some  lurking 
or  straggling  party  of  savages. 

As  soon  as  our  people,  therefore,  had  made  their  breakfast, 
we  beat  up  for  volunteers  for  a  cruise  in  search  of  the  Count. 
A  dozen  of  the  rangers,  mounted  on  some  of  the  best  and 
freshest  horses,  and  armed  with  rifles,  were  soon  ready  to 
start;  our  half-breeds  Beatte  and  Antoine  also,  with  our  little 
mongrel  Frenchman,  were  zealous  in  the  cause ;  so  Mr.  L.  and 
myself  taking  the  lead,  to  show  the  way  to  the  scene  of  our 
little  hunt  where  we  had  parted  company  with  the  Count,  we 
all  set  out  across  the  prairie.  A  ride  of  a  couple  of  miles 
brought  us  to  the  carcasses  of  the  two  buffaloes  we  had  killed. 
A  legion  of  ravenous  wolves  were  already  gorging  upon 
them.  At  our  approach  they  reluctantly  drew  off,  skulking 
with  a  caitiff  look  to  the  distance  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  and 
there  awaiting  our  departure,  that  they  might  return  to  their 
banquet. 

I  conducted  Beatte  and  Antoine  to  the  spot  whence  the 
young  Count  had  continued  the  chase  alone.  It  was  like 
putting  hounds  upon  the  scent.  They  immediately  distin 
guished  the  track  of  his  horse  amidst  the  trampings  of  the 
buffaloes,  and  set  off  at  a  round  pace,  following  with  the  eye 
in  nearly  a  straight  course,  for  upward  of  a  mile,  when  they 
came  to  where  the  herd  had  divided,  and  run  hither  and 
thither  about  a  meadow.  Here  the  track  of  the  horse's  hoofs 
wandered  and  doubled  and  often  crossed  each  other ;  our  half- 
breeds  were  like  hounds  at  fault.  While  we  were  at  a  halt, 
waiting  until  they  should  unravel  the  maze,  Beatte  suddenly 
gave  a  short  Indian  whoop,  or  rather  yelp,  and  pointed  to  a 
distant  hill.  On  regarding  it  attentively,  we  perceived  a 
horseman  on  the  summit.  "It  is  the  Count  I'1  cried  Beatte, 
and  set  off  at  full  gallop,  followed  by  the  whole  company. 
In  a  few  moments  he  checked  his  horse.  Another  figure  on 
horseback  had  appeared  on  the  brow  of  the  hill.  This  com 
pletely  altered  the  case.  The  Count  had  wandered  off  alone ; 
no  other  person  had  been  missing  from  the  camp.  If  one  of 
these  horsemen  were  indeed  the  Count,  the  other  must  be  ari 
Indian.  If  an  Indian,  in  all  probability  a  Pawnee.  Perhaps 
they  were  both  Indians ;  scouts  of  some  party  lurking  in  the 
vicinity.  While  these  and  other  suggestions  were  hastily  dis 
cussed,  the  two  horsemen  glided  down  from  the  profile  of  the 
hill,  and  we  lost  sight  of  them.  One  of  the  rangers  suggested 


A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  119 

that  there  might  be  a  straggling  party  of  Pawnees  behind 
the  hill,  and  that  the  Count  might  have  fallen  into  their 
hands.  The  idea  had  an  electric  effect  upon  the  little  troop. 
In  an  instant  every  horse  was  at  full  speed,  the  half-breeds 
leading  the  way ;  the  young  rangers  as  they  rode  set  up  wild 
yelps  of  exultation  at  the  thoughts  of  having  a  brush  with  the 
Indians.  A  neck  or  nothing  gallop  brought  us  to  the  skirts  of 
the  hill,  and  revealed  our  mistake.  In  a  ravine  we  found  the 
two  horsemen  standing  by  the  carcass  of  a  buffalo  which  they 
had  killed.  They  proved  to  be  two  rangers,  who,  unperceived, 
had  left  the  camp  a  little  before  us,  and  had  come  here  in  a 
direct  line,  while  we  had  made  a  wide  circuit  about  the 
prairie. 

This  episode  being  at  an  end,  and  the  sudden  excitement 
being  over,,  we  slowly  and  coolly  retraced  our  steps  to  the 
meadow;  but  it  was  some  time  before  our  half-breeds  could 
again  get  on  the  track  of  the  Count.  Having  at  length  found 
it,  they  succeeded  in  following  it  through  all  its  doublings, 
until  they  came  to  where  it  was  no  longer  mingled  with  the 
tramp  of  buffaloes,  but  became  single  and  separate,  wandering 
here  and  there  about  the  prairies,  but  always  tending  in  a 
direction  opposite  to  that  of  the  camp.  Here  the  Count  had 
evidently  given  up  the  pursuit  of  the  herd,  and  had  endeav 
ored  to  find  his  way  to  the  encampment,  but  had  become 
bewildered  as  the  evening  shades  thickened  around  him,  and 
had  completely  mistaken  the  points  of  the  compass. 

In  all  this  quest  our  half-breeds  displayed  that  quickness  of 
eye,  in  following  up  a  track,  for  which  Indians  are  so  noted. 
Beatte,  especially,  was  as  staunch  as  a  veteran  hound.  Some 
times  he  would  keep  forward  on  an  easy  trot ;  his  eyes  fixed  on 
the  ground  a  little  ahead  of  his  horse,  clearly  distinguishing 
prints  in  the  herbage  which  to  me  were  invisible,  excepting 
on  the  closest  inspection.  Sometimes  he  would  pull  up  and 
walk  his  horse  slowly,  regarding  the  ground  intensely,  where 
to  my  eye  nothing  was  apparent.  Then  he  would  dismount, 
lead  his  horse  by  the  bridle,  and  advance  cautiously  step  by 
step,  with  his  face  bent  towards  the  earth,  just  catching,  here 
and  there,  a  casual  indication  of  the  vaguest  kind  to  guide 
him  onward.  In  some  places  where  the  soil  was  hard  and  the 
grass  withered,  he  would  lose  the  track  entirely,  and  wander 
backward  and  forward,  and  right  and  left,  in  search  of  it; 
returning  occasionally  to  the  place  where  he  had  lost  sight  of 
it,  to  take  a  new  departure.  If  this  failed  he  would  examine 


120  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

the  banks  of  the  neighboring  streams,  or  the  sandy  bottoms  of 
the  ravines,  in  hopes  of  finding  tracks  where  the  Count  had 
crossed.  When  he  again  came  upon  the  track,  he  would 
remount  his  horse,  and  resume  his  onward  course.  At  length, 
after  crossing  a  stream,  in  the  crumbling  banks  of  which  the 
hoofs  of  the  horse  were  deeply  dented,  we  came  upon  a  high 
dry  prairie,  where  our  half-breeds  were  completely  baffled. 
Not  a  foot-print  was  to  be  discerned,  though  they  searched  in 
every  direction;  and  Beatte,  at  length  coming  to  a  pause, 
shook  his  head  despondingly. 

Just  then  a  small  herd  of  deer,  roused  from  a  neighboring 
ravine,  came  bounding  by  us.  Beatte  sprang  from  his  horse, 
levelled  his  rifle,  and  wounded  one  slightly,  but  without  bring 
ing  it  to  the  ground.  The  report  of  the  rifle  was  almost 
immediately  followed  by  a  long  halloo  from  a  distance.  We 
looked  around,  but  could  see  nothing.  Another  long  halloo 
was  heard,  and  at  length  a  horseman  was  descried,  emerging 
out  of  a  skirt  of  forest.  A  single  glance  showed  him  to  be  the 
young  Count ;  there  was  a  universal  shout  and  scamper,  every 
one  setting  off  full  gallop  to  greet  him.  It  was  a  joyful  meet 
ing  to  both  parties;  for,  much  anxiety  had  been  felt  by  us 
all  on  account  of  his  youth  and  inexperience,  and  for  his  part, 
with  all  his  love  of  adventure,  he  seemed  right  glad  to  be  once 
more  among  his  friends. 

As  we  supposed,  he  had  completely  mistaken  his  course  on 
the  preceding  evening,  and  had  wandered  about  until  dark, 
when  he  thought  of  bivouacking.  The  night  was  cold,  yet  he 
feared  to  make  a  fire,  lest  it  might  betray  him  to  some  lurking 
party  of  Indians.  Hobbling  his  horse  with  his  pocket  hand 
kerchief,  and  leaving  him  to  graze  on  the  margin  of  the  prairie, 
he  clambered  into  a  tree,  fixed  his  saddle  in  the  fork  of  the 
branches,  and  placing  himself  securely  with  his  back  against 
the  trunk,  prepared  to  pass  a  dreary  and  anxious  night, 
regaled  occasionally  with  the  howlings  of  the  wolves.  He  was 
agreeably  disappointed.  The  fatigue  of  the  day  soon  brought 
on  a  sound  sleep ;  he  had  delightful  dreams  about  his  home  in 
Switzerland,  nor  did  he  wake  until  it  was  broad  daylight. 

He  then  descended  from  his  roosting-place,  mounted  his 
horse,  and  rode  to  the  naked  summit  of  a  hill,  whence  he  be 
held  a  trackless  wilderness  around  him,  but.  at  no  great  dis 
tance,  the  Grand  Canadian,  winding  its  way  between  borders 
of  fftrest  land.  The  sight  of  this  river  consoled  him  with  the 
idea  that,  should  he  fail  in  finding  his  way  back  to  the  camp, 


A   TOUR   OX  THE  PRAIRIES.  121 

or  in  being  found  by  some  party  of  his  comrades,  he  might 
follow  the  course  of  the  stream,  which  could  not  fail  to  conduct 
him  to  some  frontier  post,  or  Indian  hamlet.  So  closed  the 
events  of  our  hap-hazard  buffalo  hunt. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

A  REPUBLIC  OF  PRAIRIE  DOGS. 

ON  returning  from  our  expedition  in  quest  of  the  young 
Count,  I  learned  that  a  burrow,  or  village,  as  it  is  termed,  of 
prairie  dogs  had  been  discovered  on  the  level  summit  of  a 
hill,  about  a  mile  from  the  camp.  Having  heard  much  of  the 
habits  and  peculiarities  of  these  little  animals,  I  determined  to 
pay  a  visit  to  the  community.  The  prairie  dog  is,  in  fact,  one 
of  the  curiosities  of  the  Far  West,  about  which  travellers  de 
light  to  tell  marvellous  tales,  endowing  him  at  times  with 
something  of  the  politic  and  social  habits  of  a  rational  being, 
and  giving  him  systems  of  civil  government  and  domestic 
economy,  almost  equal  to  what  they  used  to  bestow  upon  the 
beaver. 

The  prairie  dog  is  an  animal  of  the  coney  kind,  and  about 
the  size  of  a  rabbit.  He  is  of  a  sprightly  mercurial  nature; 
quick,  sensitive,  and  somewhat  petulant.  He  is  very  grega 
rious,  living  in  large  communities,  sometimes  of  several  acres 
in  extent,  where  innumerable  little  heaps  of  earth  show  the 
entrances  to  the  subterranean  cells  of  the  inhabitants,  and 
the  well  beaten  tracks,  like  lanes  and  streets,  show  their  mo 
bility  and  restlessness.  According  to  the  accounts  given  of 
them,  they  would  seem  to  be  continually  full  of  sport,  business, 
and  public  affairs ;  whisking  about  hither  and  thither,  as  if  on 
gossiping  visits  to  each  other's  houses,  or  congregating  in  the 
cool  of  the  evening,  or  after  a  shower,  and  gambolling  together 
in  the  open  air.  Sometimes,  especially  when  the  moon  shines, 
they  pass  half  the  night  in  revelry,  barking  or  yelping  with 
short,  quick,  yet  weak  tones,  like  those  of  very  young  puppies. 
While  in  the  height  of  their  playfulness  and  clamor,  however, 
should  there  be  the  least  alarm,  'Ihey  all  vanish  into  their  cells 
in  an  instant,  and  the  village  remains  blank  and  silent.  In 
case  they  are  hard  pressed  by  their  pursuers,  without  any 


122  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

hope  of  escape,  they  will  assume  a  pugnacious  air,  and  a  most 
whimsical  look  of  impotent  wrath  and  defiance. 

The  prairie  dogs  are  not  permitted  to  remain  sole  and  undis 
turbed  inhabitants  of  their  own  homes.  Owls  and  rattlesnakes 
are  said  to  take  up  their  abodes  with  them;  but  whether  as 
invited  guests  or  unwelcome  intruders,  is  a  matter  of  contro 
versy.  The  owls  are  of  a  peculiar  kind,  and  would  seem  to 
partake  of  the  character  of  the  hawk :  for  they  are  taller  and 
more  erect  on  their  legs,  more  alert  in  their  looks  and  rapid  in 
their  flight  than  ordinary  owls,  and  do  not  confine  their  ex 
cursions  to  the  night,  but  sally  forth  in  broad  day. 

Some  say  that  they  only  inhabit  cells  which  the  prairie 
dogs  have  deserted,  and  suffered  to  go  to  ruin,  in  consequence 
of  the  death  in  them  of  some  relative ;  for  they  would  make 
out  this  little  animal  to  be  endowed  with  keen  sensibilities, 
that  will  not  permit  it  to  remain  in  the  dwelling  where  it  has 
witnessed  the  death  of  a  friend.  Other  fanciful  speculators 
represent  the  owl.  as  a  kind  of  housekeeper  to  the  prairie  dog ; 
and,  from  having  a  note  very  similar,  insinuate  that  it  acts, 
in  a  manner,  as  family  preceptor,  and  teaches  the  young  litter 
to  bark. 

As  to  the  rattlesnake,  nothing  satisfactory  has  been  ascer 
tained  of  the  part  he  plays  in  this  most  interesting  household ; 
though  he  is  considered  as  little  better  than  a  sycophant  and 
sharper,  that  winds  himself  into  the  concerns  of  the  honest, 
credulous  little  dog,  and  takes  him  in  most  sadly.  Certain  it 
is,  if  he  acts  as  toad-eater,  he  occasionally  solaces  himself  with 
more  than  the  usual  perquisites  of  his  order ;  as  he  is  now  and 
then  detected  with  one  of  the  younger  members  of  the  family 
in  his  maw. 

Such  are  a  few  of  the  particulars  that  I  could  gather  about 
the  domestic  economy  of  this  little  inhabitant  of  the  prairies, 
who,  with  his  pigmy  republic,  appears  to  be  a  subject  of  much 
whimsical  speculation  and  burlesque  remarks  among  the  hun 
ters  of  the  Far  West. 

It  was  toward  evening  that  I  set  out  with  a  companion,  to 
visit  the  village  in  question.  Unluckily,  it  had  been  invaded 
in  the  course  of  the  day  by  some  of  the  rangers,  who  had  shot 
two  or  three  of  its  inhabitants,  and  thrown  the  whole  sensitive 
community  in  confusion.  As  we  approached,  we  could  per 
ceive  numbers  of  the  inhabitants  seated  at  the  entrances  of 
their  cells,  while  sentinels  seemed  to  have  been  posted  on  the 
outskirts,  to  keep  a  look-out.  At  sight  of  us,  the  picket 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  123 

guards  scampered  in  and  gave  the  alarm;  whereupon  every 
inhabitant  gave  a  short  yelp,  or  bark,  and  dived  into  his  hole, 
his  heels  twinkling  in  the  air  as  if  he  had  thrown  a  somersault. 

We  traversed  the  whole  village,  or  republic,  which  covered 
an  area  of  about  thirty  acres ;  but  not  a  whisker  of  an  inhabi 
tant  was  to  be  seen.  We  probed  their  cells  as  far  as  the  ram 
rods  of  our  rifles  would  reach,  but  could  unearth  neither  dog, 
nor  owl,  nor  rattlesnake.  Moving  quietly  to  a  little  distance, 
we  lay  down  upon  the  ground,  and  watched  for  a  long  time, 
silent  and  motionless.  By  and  by,  a  cautious  old  burgher 
would  slowly  put  forth  the  end  of  his  nose,  but  instantly  draw 
it  in  again.  Another,  at  a  greater  distance,  would  emerge 
entirely;  but,  catching  a  glance  of  us,  would  throw  a  somer 
sault,  and  plunge  back  again  into  his  hole.  At  length,  some 
who  resided  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  village,  taking  courage 
from  the  continued  stillness,  would  steal  forth,  and  hurry  off 
to  a  distant  hole,  the  residence  possibly  of  some  family  connec 
tion,  or  gossiping  friend,  about  whose  safety  they  were  solici 
tous,  or  with  whom  they  wished  to  compare  notes  about  the 
late  occurrences. 

Others,  still  more  bold,  assembled  in  little  knots,  in  the 
streets  and  public  places,  as  if  to  discuss  the  recent  outrages 
offered  to  the  commonwealth,  and  the  atrocious  murders  of 
their  fellow-burghers. 

We  rose  from  the  ground  and  moved  forward,  to  take  a 

nearer  view  of  these  public  proceedings,  when  yelp !  yelp !  yelp ! 

-there  was  a  shrill  alarm  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth;  the 

meetings  suddenly  dispersed ;  feet  twinkled  in  the  air  in  every 

direction ;  and  in  an  instant  all  had  vanished  into  the  earth. 

The  dusk  of  the  evening  put  an  end  to  our  observations,  but 
the  train  of  whimsical  comparisons  produced  in  my  brain  by 
the  moral  attributes  which  I  had  heard  given  to  these  little 
politic  animals,  still  continued  after  my  return  to  camp ;  and 
late  in  the  night,  as  I  lay  awake  after  all  the  camp  was  asleep, 
and  heard  in  the  stillness  of  the  hour,  a  faint  clamor  of  shrill 
voices  from  the  distant  village,  I  could  not  help  picturing  to 
myself  the  inhabitants  gathered  together  in  noisy  assemblage 
and  windy  debate,  to  devise  plans  for  the  public  safety,  and 
to  vindicate  the  invaded  rights  and  insulted  dignity  of  the  re 
public. 


124  ^   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

A  COUNCIL  IN  THE  CAMP. — REASONS  FOR  FACING  HOMEWARD.— 
HORSES  LOST.— DEPARTURE  WITH  A  DETACHMENT  ON  THE 
HOMEWARD  ROUTE. — SWAMP. — WILD  HORSE. — CAMP  SCENES  BY 
NIGHT. — THE  OWL,  HARBINGER  OF  DAWN. 

WHILE  breakfast  was  preparing,  a  council  was  held  as  to  our 
future  movements.  Symptoms  of  discontent  had  appeared  for 
a  day  or  two  past  among  the  rangers,  most  of  whom,  unaccus 
tomed  to  the  life  of  the  prairies,  had  become  impatient  of  its 
privations,  as  well  as  the  restraints  of  the  camp.  The  want  of 
bread  had  been  felt  severely,  and  they  were  wearied  with  con 
stant  travel.  In  fact,  the  novelty  and  excitement  of  the  expe 
dition  were  at  an  end.  They  had  hunted  the  deer,  the  bear,  the 
elk,  the  buffalo,  and  the  wild  horse,  and  had  no  further  object 
of  leading  interest  to  look  forward  to.  A  general  inclination 
prevailed,  therefore,  to  turn  homeward. 

Grave  reasons  disposed  the  Captain  and  his  officers  to  adopt 
this  resolution.  Our  horses  were  generally  much  jaded  by  the 
fatigues  of  travelling  and  hunting,  and  had  fallen  away  sadly 
for  want  of  good  pasturage,  and  from  being  tethered  at  night, 
to  protect  them  from  Indian  depredations.  The  late  rains,  too, 
seemed  to  have  washed  away  the  nourishment  from  the  scanty 
herbage  that  remained ;  and  since  our  encampment  during  the 
storm,  our  horses  had  lost  flesh  and  strength  rapidly.  With 
every  possible  care,  horses,  accustomed  to  grain,  and  to  the 
regular  and  plentiful  nourishment  of  the  stable  and  the  farm, 
lose  heart  and  condition  in  travelling  on  the  prairies.  In  all 
expeditions  of  the  kind  we  were  engaged  in,  the  hardy  Indian 
horses,  which  are  generally  mustangs,  or  a  cross  of  the  wild 
breed,  are  to  be  preferred.  They  can  stand  all  fatigues,  hard 
ships,  and  privations,  and  thrive  on  the  grasses  and  the  wild 
herbage  of  the  plains. 

Our  men,  too,  had  acted  with  little  forethought ;  galloping  off 
whenever  they  had  a  chance,  after  the  game  that  we  encoun 
tered  while  on  the  march.  In  this  way  they  had  strained  and 
wearied  their  horses,  instead  of  husbanding  their  strength  and 
spirits.  On  a  tour  of  the  kind,  horses  should  as  seldom  as  pos 
sible  be  put  off  of  a  quiet  walk;  and  the  average  day's  journey 
should  not  exceed  ten  miles. 

We  had  hoped,  by  pushing  forward,  to  reach  the  bottoms  of 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  125 

the  Red  River,  which  abound  with  young  cane,  a  most  nourish 
ing  forage  for  cattle  at  this  season  of  the  year.  It  would  now 
take  us  several  days  to  arrive  there,  and  in  the  meantime 
many  of  our  horses  would  probably  give  out.  It  was  the  time, 
too,  when  the  hunting  parties  of  Indians  set  fire  to  the  prairies ; 
the  herbage,  throughout  this  part  of  the  country,  was  in  that 
parched  state,  favorable  to  combustion,  and  there  was  daily 
more  and  more  risk  that  the  prairies  between  us  and  the  fort 
would  be  set  on  fire  by  some  of  the  return  parties  of  Osages, 
and  a  scorched  desert  left  for  us  to  traverse.  In  a  word,  we 
had  started  too  late  in  the  season,  or  loitered  too  much  in  the 
early  part  of  our  march,  to  accomplish  our  originally  intended 
tour;  and  there  was  imminent  hazard,  if  we  continued  on,  that 
we  should  lose  the  greater  part  of  our  horses;  and,  besides 
suffering  various  other  inconveniences,  be  obliged  to  return 
on  foot.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  to  give  up  all  further 
progress,  and,  turning  our  faces  to  the  southeast,  to  make  the 
best  of  our  way  back  to  Fort  Gibson. 

This  resolution  being  taken,  there  was  an  immediate  eagerness 
to  put  it  into  operation.  Several  horses,  however,  were  miss 
ing,  and  among  others  those  of  the  Captain  and  the  Surgeon. 
Persons  had  gone  in  search  of  them,  but  the  morning  advanced 
without  any  tidings  of  them.  Our  party,  in  the  meantime, 
being  all  ready  for  a  march,  the  Commissionor  determined  to 
set  off  in  the  advance,  with  his  original  escort  of  a  lieutenant 
and  fourteen  rangers,  leaving  the  Captain  to  come  on  at  his 
convenience,  with  the  main  bodj  .  At  ten  o'clock  we  accord 
ingly  started,  under  the  guidance  of  Beatte,  who  had  hunted 
over  this  part  of  the  country,  and  knew  the  direct  route  to  the 
garrison. 

For  some  distance  we  skirted  the  prairie,  keeping  a  south 
east  direction ;  and  in  the  course  of  our  ride  we  saw  a  variety 
of  wild  animals,  deer,  white  and  black  wolves,  buffaloes,  and 
wild  horses.  To  the  latter,  our  half-breeds  and  Tonish  gave 
ineffectual  chase,  only  serving  to  add  to  the  weariness  of  their 
already  jaded  steeds.  Indeed  it  is  rarely  that  any  but  the 
weaker  and  least  fleet  of  the  wild  horses  are  taken  in  these  hard 
racings ;  while  the  horse  of  the  huntsman  is  prone  to  be  knocked 
up.  The  latter,  in  fact,  risks  a  good  horse  to  catch  a  bad  one. 
On  this  occasion,  Tonish,  who  was  a  perfect  imp  on  horseback, 
and  noted  for  ruining  every  animal  he  bestrode,  succeeded  in 
laming  and  almost  disabling  the  powerful  gray  on  which  we 
had  mounted  him  at  the  outset  of  our  tour. 


126  A    TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

After  proceeding  a  few  miles,  we  left  the  prairie,  and  struck 
to  the  east,  taking  what  Beatte  pronounced  an  old  Osage  war- 
track.  This  led  us  through  a  rugged  tract  of  country,  over 
grown  with  scrubbed  forests  and  entangled  thickets,  and 
intersected  by  deep  ravines,  and  brisk-running  streams,  the 
sources  of  Little  River.  About  three  o'clock,  we  encamped  by 
some  pools  of  water  in  a  small  valley,  having  come  about  four 
teen  miles.  We  had  brought  on  a  supply  of  provisions  from 
our  last  camp,  and  supped  heartily  upon  stewed  buffalo  meat, 
roasted  venison,  beignets,  or  fritters  of  flour  fried  in  bear's  lard, 
and  tea  made  of  a  species  of  the  golden-rod,  which  we  had 
found,  throughout  our  whole  route,  almost  as  grateful  a  beve 
rage  as  coffee.  Indeed  our  coffee,  which,  as  long  as  it  held  out, 
had  been  served  up  with  every  meal,  according  to  the  custom 
of  the  West,  was  by  no  means  a  beverage  to  boast  of.  It  was 
roasted  in  a  frying-pan,  without  much  care,  pounded  in  a 
leathern  bag,  with  a  round  stone,  and  boiled  in  our  prime  and 
almost  only  kitchen  utensil,  the  camp  kettle,  in  "'branch"  or 
brook  water ;  which,  on  the  prairies,  is  deeply  colored  by  the 
soil,  of  which  it  always  holds  abundant  particles  in  a  state  of 
solution  and  suspension.  In  fact,  in  the  course  of  our  tour,  we 
had  tasted  the  quality  of  every  variety  of  soil,  and  the  draughts 
of  water  we  had  taken  might  vie  in  diversity  of  color,  if  not  of 
flavor,  with  the  tinctures  of  an  apothecary's  shop.  Pure, 
limpid  water  is  a  rare  luxury  on  the  prairies,  at  least  at  this 
season  of  the  year.  Supper  over,  we  placed  sentinels  about  our 
scanty  and  diminished  camp,  spread  our  skins  and  blankets 
under  the  trees,  now  nearly  destitute  of  foliage,  and  slept 
soundly  until  morning. 

We  had  a  beautiful  daybreak.  The  camp  again  resounded 
with  cheerful  voices;  every  one  was  animated  with  the 
thoughts  of  soon  being  at  the  fort,  and  revelling  on  bread  and 
vegetables.  Even  our  saturnine  man,  Beatte,  seemed  inspired 
on  this  occasion ;  and  as  he  drove  up  the  horses  for  the  march, 
I  heard  him  singing,  in  nasal  tones,  a  most  forlorn  Indian 
ditty.  All  this  transient  gayety,  however,  soon  died  away 
amidst  the  fatigues  of  our  march,  which  lay  through  the  same 
kind  of  rough,  hilly,  thicketed  country  as  that  of  yesterday. 
In  the  course  of  the  morning  we  arrived  at  the  valley  of  the 
Little  River,  where  it  wound  through  a  broad  bottom  of  allu 
vial  soil.  At  present  it  had  overflowed  its  banks,  and  inun 
dated  a  great  part  of  the  valley.  The  difficulty  was  to  distin 
guish  the  stream  from  the  broad  sheets  of  water  it  had  formed, 


A    TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  127 

and  to  find  a  place  where  it  might  be  forded ;  for  it  was  in 
general  deep  and  miry,  with  abrupt  crumbling  banks.  Under 
the  pilotage  of  Beatte,  therefore,  we  wandered  for  some  time 
among  the  links  made  by  this  winding  stream,  in  what  ap 
peared  to  us  a  trackless  labyrinth  of  swamps,  thickets,  and 
standing  pools.  Sometimes  our  jaded  horses  dragged  their 
limbs  forward  with  the  utmost  difficulty,  having  to  toil  for  a 
great  distance,  with  the  water  up  to  the  stirrups,  and  beset  at 
the  bottom  with  roots  and  creeping  plants.  Sometimes  we 
had  to  force  our  way  through  dense  thickets  of  brambles  and 
grapevines,  which  almost  pulled  us  out  of  our  saddles.  In  one 
place,  one  of  the  pack-horses  sunk  in  the  mire  and  fell  on  his 
side,  so  as  to  be  extricated  with  great  difficulty.  Wherever 
the  soil  was  bare,  or  there  was  a  sand-bank,  we  beheld  in 
numerable  tracks  of  bears,  wolves,  wild  horses,  turkeys,  and 
water-fowl;  showing  the  abundant  sport  this  valley  might 
afford  to  the  huntsman.  Our  men,  however,  were  sated  with 
hunting,  and  too  weary  to  be  excited  by  these  signs,  which  in 
the  outset  of  our  tour  would  have  put  them  in  a  fever  of  antici 
pation.  Their  only  desire,  at  present,  was  to  push  on  doggedly 
for  the  fortress. 

At  length  we  succeeded  in  rinding  a  fording  place,  where  we 
all  crossed  Little  River,  with  the  water  and  mire  to  the  saddle- 
girths,  and  then  halted  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  to  overhaul  the 
wet  baggage,  and  give  the  horses  time  to  rest. 

On  resuming  our  march,  we  came  to  a  pleasant  little  mea 
dow,  surrounded  by  groves  of  elms  and  cotton  wood  trees,  in 
the  midst  of  which  was  a  fine  black  horse  grazing.  Beatte, 
who  was  in  the  advance,  beckoned  us  to  halt,  and,  being 
mounted  on  a  mare,  approached  the  horse  gently,  step  by  step, 
imitating  the  whinny  of  the  animal  with  admirable  exactness. 
The  noble  courser  of  the  prairie  gazed  for  a  time,  snuffed  the 
air,  neighed,  pricked  up  his  ears,  and  pranced  round  and  round" 
,the  mare  in  gallant  style ;  but  kept  at  too  great  a  distance  for 
Beatte  to  throw  the  lariat.  He  was  a  magnificent  object,  in 
all  the  pride  and  glory  of  his  nature.  It  was  admirable  to  see 
the  lofty  and  airy  carriage  of  his  head ;  the  freedom  of  every 
movement;  the  elasticity  with  which  he  trod  the  meadow. 
Finding  it  impossible  to  get  within  noosing  distance,  and  seeing 
that  the  horse  was  receding  and  growing  alarmed,  Beatte  slid 
down  from  his  saddle,  levelled  his  rifle  across  the  back  of  his 
mare,  and  took  aim,  with  the  evident  intention  of  creasing 
him.  I  felt  a  throb  of  anxiety  for  the  safety  of  the  noble  aiii- 


128  ^   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

mal,  and  called  out  to  Beatte  to  desist.  It  was  too  late;  ho 
pulled  the  trigger  as  I  spoke ;  luckily  he  did  not  shoot  with 
his  usual  accuracy,  and  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  the  coal- 
black  steed  dash  off  unharmed  into  the  forest. 

On  leaving  this  valley,  we  ascended  among  broken  hills  and 
rugged,  ragged  forests,  equally  harassing  to  horse  and  rider. 
The  ravines,  too,  were  of  red  clay,  and  often  so  steep  that,  in 
descending,  the  horses  would  put  their  feet  together  and  fairly 
slide  down,  and  then  scramble  up  the  opposite  side  like  cats. 
Here  and  there,  among  the  thickets  in  the  valleys,  we  met  with 
sloes  and  persimmon,  and  the  eagerness  with  which  our  men 
broke  from  the  line  of  march,  and  ran  to  gather  these  poor 
fruits,  showed  how  much  they  craved  some  vegetable  condi 
ment,  after  living  so  long  exclusively  on  animal  food. 

About  half  past  three  we  encamped  near  a  brook  in  a  mea 
dow,  where  there  was  some  scanty  herbage  for  our  half -fam 
ished  horses.  As  Beatte  had  killed  a  fat  doe  in  the  course  of 
the  day,  and  one  of  our  company  a  fine  turkey,  we  did  not  lack 
for  provisions. 

It  was  a  splendid  autumnal  evening.  The  horizon,  after 
sunset,  was  of  a  clear  apple  green,  rising  into  a  delicate  lake 
which  gradually  lost  itself  in  a  deep  purple  blue.  One  narrow 
streak  of  cloud,  of  a  mahogany  color,  edged  with  amber  and 
gold,  floated  in  the  west,  and  just  beneath  it  was  the  evening 
star,  shining  with  the  pure  brilliancy  of  a  diamond.  In  unison 
with  this  scene,  there  was  an  evening  concert  of  insects  of 
various  kinds,  all  blended  and  harmonized  into  one  sober  and 
somewhat  melancholy  note,  which  I  have  always  found  to 
have  a  soothing  effect  upon  the  mind,  disposing  it  to  quiet 
musings. 

The  night  that  succeeded  was  calm  and  beautiful.  There 
was  a  faint  light  from  the  moon,  now  in  its  second  quarter, 
and  after  it  had  set,  a  fine  starlight,  with  shooting  meteors. 
The  wearied  rangers,  after  a  little  murmuring  conversation 
round  their  fires,  sank  to  rest  at  an  early  hour,  and  I  seemed 
to  have  the  whole  scene  to  myself.  It  is  delightful,  in  thus 
bivouacking  on  the  prairies,  to  lie  awake  and  gaze  at  the  stars ; 
it  is  like  watching  them  from  the  deck  of  a  ship  at  sea,  when 
at  one  view  we  have  the  whole  cope  of  heaven.  One  realizes, 
in  such  lonely  scenes,  that  companionship  with  these  beautiful 
luminaries  which  made  astronomers  of  the  eastern  shepherds, 
as  they  watched  their  flocks  by  night.  How  often,  while  con 
templating  their  mild  and  benignant  radiance,  I  have  called  to 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

mind  the  exquisite  text  of  Job:  " Canst  thou  bind  the  secret 
influences  of  the  Pleiades,  or  loose  the  bands  of  Orion?"  I  do 
not  know  why  it  was,  but  I  felt  this  night  unusually  affected 
by  the  solemn  magnificence  of  the  firmament ;  and  seemed,  as 
I  lay  thus  under  the  open  vault  of  heaven,  to  inhale  with  the 
pure  untainted  air,  an  exhilarating  buoyancy  of  spirit,  and,  as  it 
were,  an  ecstasy  of  mind.  I  slept  and  waked  alternately ;  and 
when  I  slept,  my  dreams  partook  of  the  happy  tone  of  my 
waking  reveries.  Toward  morning,  one  of  the  sentinels,  the 
oldest  man  in  the  troop,  came  and  took  a  seat  near  me ;  he 
was  weary  and  sleepy,  and  impatient  to  be  relieved.  I  found 
he  haft  been  gazing  at  the  heavens  also,  but  with  different 
feelings. 

"If  the  stars  don't  deceive  me,"  said  he,  "it  is  near  day 
break." 

"There  can  be  no  doubt  of  that,"  said  Beatte,  who  lay  close 
by.  "I  heard  an  owl  just  now." 

"  Does  the  owl,  then,  hoot  toward  daybreak?"  asked  I. 

"  Aye,  sir,  just  as  the  cock  crows." 

This  was  a  useful  habitude  of  the  bird  of  wisdom,  of  which 
I  was  not  aware.  Neither  the  stars  nor  owl  deceived  their 
votaries.  In  a  short  time  there  was  a  faint  streak  of  light  in 
the  east. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

OLD    CREEK    ENCAMPMENT. — SCARCITY    OF    PROVISIONS. — BAD 
WEATHER.— WEARY    MARCHING.— A  HUNTER'S  BRIDGE. 

THE  country  through  which  we  passed  this  morning  (Novem 
ber  2d),  was  less  rugged,  and  of  more  agreeable  aspect  than 
that  we  had  lately  traversed.  At  eleven  o'clock,  we  came  out 
upon  an  extensive  prairie,  and  about  six  miles  to  our  left  be 
held  a  long  line  of  green  forest,  marking  the  course  of  the 
north  fork  of  the  Arkansas.  On  the  edge  of  the  prairie,  and 
in  a  spacious  grove  of  noble  trees  which  overshadowed  a  small 
brook,  were  the  traces  of  an  old  Creek  hunting  camp.  On  the 
bark  of  the  trees  were  rude  delineations  of  hunters  and  squaws, 
scrawled  with  charcoal ;  together  with  various  signs  and  hiero 
glyphics,  which  our  half-breeds  interpreted  as  indicating  that 
from  this  encampment  the  hunters  had  returned  home. 


130  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

In  this  beautiful  camping  ground  we  made  our  mid-day  halt. 
While  reposing  under  the  trees,  we  heard  a  shouting  at  no 
great  distance,  and  presently  the  Captain  and  the  main  body 
of  rangers,  whom  we  had  left  behind  two  days  since,  emerged 
from  the  thickets,  and  crossing  the  brook,  were  joyfully  wel 
comed  into  the  camp.  The  Captain  and  the  Doctor  had  been 
unsuccessful  in  the  search  after  their  horses,  and  were  obliged 
to  march  for  the  greater  part  of  the  time  on  foot ;  yet  they  had 
come  on  with  more  than  ordinary  speed. 

We  resumed  our  march  about  one  o'clock,  keeping  easterly, 
and  approaching  the  north  fork  obliquely ;  it  was  late  Jbef ore 
we  found  a  good  camping  place ;  the  beds  of  the  streams  were 
dry,  the  prairies,  too,  had  been  burnt  in  various  places,  by 
Indian  hunting  parties.  At  length  we  found  water  in  a  small 
alluvial  bottom,  where  there  was  tolerable  pasturage. 

On  the  following  morning  there  were  flashes  of  lightning  in 
the  east,  with  low,  rumbling  thunder,  and  clouds  began  to 
gather  about  the  horizon.  Beatte  prognosticated  rain,  and 
that  the  wind  would  veer  to  the  north.  In  the  course  of  our 
march,  a  flock  of  brant  were  seen  overhead,  flying  from  the 
north.  "There  comes  the  wind!"  said  Beatte;  and,  in  fact,  it 
began  to  blow  from  that  quarter  almost  immediately,  with 
occasional  flurries  of  rain.  About  half  past  nine  o'clock,  we 
forded  the  north  fork  of  the  Canadian,  and  encamped  about 
one,  that  our  hunters  might  have  time  to  beat  up  the  neigh 
borhood  for  game ;  for  a  serious  scarcity  began  to  prevail  in 
the  camp.  Most  of  the  rangers  were  young,  heedless,  and 
inexperienced,  and  could  not  be  prevailed  upon,  while  pro 
visions  abounded,  to  provide  for  the  future,  by  jerking  meat, 
or  carry  away  any  on  their  horses.  On  leaving  an  encamp 
ment,  they  would  leave  quantities  of  meat  lying  about,  trust 
ing  to  Providence  and  their  rifles  for  a  future  supply.  The 
consequence  was,  that  any  temporary  scarcity  of  game,  or 
ill-luck  in  hunting,  produced  almost  a  famine  in  the  camp. 
In  the  present  instance,  they  had  left  loads  of  buffalo  meat  at 
the  camp  on  the  great  prairie ;  and,  having  ever  since  been  on 
a  forced  march,  leaving  no  time  for  hunting,  they  were  now 
destitute  of  supplies,  and  pinched  with  hunger.  Some  had  not 
eaten  anything  since  the  morning  of  the  preceding  day. 
Nothing  would  have  persuaded  them,  when  revelling  in  the 
abundance  of  the  buffalo  encampment,  that  they  would  so 
soon  be  in  such  famishing  plight. 

The  hunters  returned  with  indifferent  success.     The  game 


A   TOUR   ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  131 

had  been  frightened  away  from  this  part  of  the  country  by 
Indian  hunting  parties,  which  had  preceded  us.  Ten  or  a 
dozen  wild  turkeys  were  brought  in,  but  not  a  deer  had  been 
seen.  The  rangers  began  to  think  turkeys  and  even  prairie- 
hens  deserving  of  attention;  game  which  they  had  hitherto 
considered  unworthy  of  their  rifles. 

The  night  was  cold  and  windy,  with  occasional  sprinklings 
of  rain ;  but  we  had  roaring  fires  to  keep  us  comfortable.  In 
the  night,  a  flight  of  wild  geese  passed  over  the  camp,  making 
a  great  cackling  in  the  air ;  symptoms  of  approaching  winter. 

We  set  forward  at  an  early  hour  the  next  morning,  in  a 
northeast  course,  and  came  upon  the  trace  of  a  party  of  Creek 
Indians,  which  enabled  our  poor  horses  to  travel  with  more 
ease.  We  entered  upon  a  fine  champaign  country.  From  a  ris 
ing  ground  we  had  a  noble  prospect,  over  extensive  prairies, 
finely  diversified  by  groves  and  tracts  of  woodland,  and 
bounded  by  long  lines  of  distant  hills,  all  clothed  with  the 
rich  mellow  tints  of  autumn.  Game,  too,  was  more  plenty. 
A  fine  buck  sprang  up  from  among  the  herbage  on  our  right, 
and  dashed  off  at  full  speed ;  but  a  young  ranger  by  the  name 
of  Childers,  who  was  on  foot,  levelled  his  rifle,  discharged  a 
ball  that  broke  the  neck  of  the  bounding  deer,  and  sent  him 
tumbling  head  over  heels  forward.  Another  buck  and  a  doe, 
besides  several  turkeys,  were  killed  before  we  came  to  a  halt, 
so  that  the  hungry  mouths  of  the  troop  were  once  more  sup 
plied. 

About  three  o'clock  we  encamped  in  a  grove  after  a  forced 
march  of  twenty-five  miles,  that  had  proved  a  hard  trial  to 
the  horses.  For  a  long  time  after  the  head  of  the  line  had 
encamped,  the  rest  kept  straggling  in,  two  and  three  at  a  time ; 
one  of  our  pack-horses  had  given  out,  about  nine  miles  back, 
and  a  pony  belonging  to  Beatte,  shortly  after.  Many  of  the 
other  horses  looked  so  gaunt  and  feeble,  that  doubts  were 
entertained  of  their  being  able  to  reach  the  fort.  In  the  night 
there  was  heavy  rain,  and  the  morning  dawned  cloudy  and 
dismal.  The  camp  resounded,  however,  with  something  of  its 
former  gayety.  The  rangers  had  supped  well,  and  were  reno 
vated  in  spirits,  anticipating  a  speedy  arrival  at  the  garrison. 
Before  we  set  forward  on  our  march,  Beatte  returned,  and 
brought  his  pony  to  the  camp  with  great  difficulty.  The 
pack-horse,  however,  was  completely  knocked  up  and  had  to 
be  abandoned.  The  wild  mare,  to,  had  cast  her  foal,  through 
exhaustion,  and  was  not  in  a  state  to  go  forward.  She  and 


132  A    TOUR   OX  THK  PUAllUE*. 

the  pony,  therefore,  were  left  at  this  encampment,  whore 
there  was  water  and  good  pasturage ;  and  where  there  would 
be  a  chance  of  their  reviving,  and  being  afterward  sought 
out  and  brought  to  the  garrison. 

We  set  off  about  eight  o'clock,  and  had  a  day  of  weary  and 
harassing  travel ;  part  of  the  time  over  rough  hills,  and  part 
over  rolling  prairies.  The  rain  had  rendered  the  soil  slippery 
and  plashy,  so  as  to  afford  unsteady  foothold.  Some  of  the 
rangers  dismounted,  their  horses  having  no  longer  strength  to 
bear  them.  We  made  a  halt  in  the  course  of  the  morning,  but 
the  horses  were  too  tired  to  graze.  Several  of  them  lay  down, 
and  there  was  some  difficulty  in  getting  them  on  their  feet 
again.  Our  troop  presented  a  forlorn  appearance,  straggling 
slowly  along,  in  a  broken  and  scattered  line,  that  extended 
over  hill  and  dale,  for  three  miles  and  upward,  in  groups  of 
three  and  four,  widely  apart;  some  on  horseback,  some  on 
foot,  with  a  few  laggards  far  in  the  rear.  About  four  o'clock, 
we  halted  for  the  night  in  a  spacious  forest,  beside  a  deep  nar 
row  river,  called  the  Little  North  Fork,  or  Deep  Creek.  It 
•was  late  before  the  main  part  of  the  troop  straggled  into  the 
encampment,  many  of  the  horses  having  given  out.  As  this 
stream  was  too  deep  to  be  forded,  we  waited  until  the  next 
day  to  devise  means  to  cross  it ;  but  our  half-breeds  swam  the 
horses  of  our  party  to  the  other  side  in  the  evening,  as  they 
would  have  better  pasturage,  and  the  stream  was  evidently 
swelling.  The  night  was  cold  and  unruly ;  the  wind  sounding 
hoarsely  through  the  forest  and  whirling  about  the  dry  leaves. 
We  made  long  fires  of  great  trunks  of  trees,  which  diffused 
something  of  consolation  if  not  cheerfulness  around. 

The  next  morning  there  was  general  permission  given  to 
hunt  until  twelve  o'clock ;  the  camp  being  destitute  of  provi 
sions.  The  rich  woody  bottom  in  which  we  were  encamped 
abounded  with  wild  turkeys,  of  which  a  considerable  number 
were  killed.  In  the  meantime,  preparations  were  made  for 
crossing  the  river,  wjiich  had  risen  several  feet  during  the 
night ;  and  it  was  determined  to  fell  trees  for  the  purpose,  to 
serve  as  bridges. 

The  Captain  and  Doctor,  and  one  or  two  other  leaders  of 
the  camp,  versed  in  woodcraft,  examined,  with  learned  eye, 
the  trees  growing  on  the  river  bank,  until  they  singled  out  a 
couple  of  the  largest  size,  and  most  suitable  inclinations.  The 
axe  was  then  vigorously  applied  to  their  roots,  in  such  a  way 
as  to  insure  their  failing  directly  across  the  stream.  As  they 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  i33 

did  not  reach  to  the  opposite  bank,  it  was  necessary  for  some 
of  the  men  to  swim  across  and  fell  trees  on  the  other  side,  to 
meet  them.  They  at  length  succeeded  in  making  a  precarious 
footway  across  the  deep  and  rapid  current,  by  which  the  bag 
gage  could  be  carried  over ;  but  it  was  necessary  to  grope  our 
way,  step  by  step,  along  the  trunks  and  main  branches  of  the 
trees,  which  for  a  part  of  the  distance  were  completely  sub 
merged,  so  that  we  were  to  our  waists  in  water.  Most  of  the 
horses  were  then  swam  across,  but  some  of  them  were  too 
weak  to  brave  the  current,  and  evidently  too  much  knocked 
up  to  bear  any  further  travel.  Twelve  men,  therefore,  were 
left  at  the  encampment  to  guard  these  horses,  until,  by  repose 
and  good  pasturage,  they  should  be  sufficiently  recovered  to 
complete  their  journey ;  and  the  Captain  engaged  to  send  the 
men  a  supply  of  flcur  and  other  necessaries,  as  soon  as  we 
should  arrive  at  the  fort. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

A  LOOK-OUT  FOR  LAND.— HARD  TRAVELLING  AND  HUNGRY  HALT 
ING.— A  FRONTIER  FARMHOUSE.— ARRIVAL  AT  THE  GARRISON. 

IT  was  a  little  after  one  o'clock  when  we  again  resumed  our 
weary  wayfaring.  The  residue  of  that  day  and  the  whole  of 
the  next  were  spent  in  toilsome  travel.  Part  of  the  way  was 
over  stony  hills,  part  across  wide  prairies,  rendered  spongy 
and  miry  by  the  recent  rain,  and  cut  up  by  brooks  swollen  into 
torrents.  Our  poor  horses  were  so  feeble,  that  it  was  with 
difficulty  we  could  get  them  across  the  deep  ravines  and  turbu 
lent  streams.  In  traversing  the  miry  plains,  they  slipped  and 
staggered  at  every  step,  and  most  of  us  were  obliged  to  dis 
mount  and  walk  for  the  greater  part  of  the  way.  Hunger  pre 
vailed  throughout  the  troop ;  every  one  began  to  look  anxious 
and  haggard,  and  to  feel  the  growing  length  of  each  additional 
mile.  At  one  time,  in  crossing  a  hill,  Beatte  climbed  n  high 
tree,  commanding  a  wide  prospect,  and  took  a  look-out,  like  a 
mariner  from  the  mast-head  at  sea.  He  came  down  wilh 
cheering  tfdings.  To  the  left  he  had  beheld  a  line  of  forest 
stretching  across  the  country,  which  he  knew  to  be  the  woody 
border  of  the  Arkansas ;  and  at  a  distance  he  had  recognized 


134  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

certain  landmarks,  from  which  he  concluded  that  we  could 
not  be  above  forty  miles  distant  from  the  fort.  It  was  like  the 
welcome  cry  of  land  to  tempest-tossed  mariners. 

In  fact  we  soon  after  saw  smoke  rising  from  a  woody  glen  at 
a  distance.  It  was  supposed  to  be  made  by  a  hunting-party  of 
Creek  or  Osage  Indians  from  the  neighborhood  of  the  fort, 
and  was  joyfully  hailed  as  a  harbinger  of  man.  It  was  now 
confidently  hoped  that  we  would  soon  arrive  among  the  fron 
tier  hamlets  of  Creek  Indians,  which  are  scattered  along  the 
skirts  of  the  uninhabited  wilderness ;  and  our  hungry  rangers 
trudged  forward  with  reviving  spirit,  regaling  themselves 
with  savory  anticipations  of  farmhouse  luxuries,  and  enume 
rating  every  article  of  good  cheer,  until  their  mouths  fairly 
watered  at  the  shadowy  feasts  thus  conjured  up. 

A  hungry  night,  however,  closed  in  upon  a  toilsome  day. 
We  encamped  on  the  border  of  one  of  the  tributary  streams  of 
the  Arkansas,  amidst  the  ruins  of  a  stately  grove  that  had 
been  riven  by  a  hurricane.  The  blast  had  torn  its  way  through 
the  forest  in  a  narrow  column,  and  its  course  was  marked  by 
enormous  trees  shivered  and  splintered,  and  upturned,  with 
their  roots  in  the  air ;  all  lay  in  one  direction,  like  3.0  many 
brittle  reeds  broken  and  trodden  down  by  the  hunter. 

Here  was  fuel  in  abundance,  without  the  labor  of  the  axe ; 
we  had  soon  immense  fires  blazing  and  sparkling  in  the  frosty 
air,  and  lighting  up  the  whole  forest;  but,  alas!  we  had  no 
meat  to  cook  at  them.  The  scarcity  in  the  camp  almost 
amounted  to  famine.  Happy  was  he  who  had  a  morsel  of 
jerked  meat,  or  even  the  half -picked  bones  of  a  former  repast. 
For  our  part,  we  were  more  lucky  at  our  mess  than  our  neigh 
bors  ;  one  of  our  men  having  shot  a  turkey.  We  had  no  bread 
to  eat  with  it,  nor  salt  to  season  it  withal.  It  was  simply 
boiled  in  water ;  the  latter  was  served  up  as  soup,  and  we  were 
fain  to  rub  each  morsel  of  the  turkey  on  the  empty  salt-bag, 
in  hopes  some  saline  particle  might  remain  to  relieve  its  in 
sipidity. 

The  night  was  biting  cold ;  the  brilliant  moonlight  sparkled 
on  the  frosty  crystals  which  covered  every  object  around  us. 
The  wa,ter  froze  beside  the  skins  on  which  we  bivouacked,  and 
in  the  morning  I  found  the  blanket  in  which  I  was  wrapped 
covered  wi oh  a  hoar  frost;  yet  I  had  never  slept  more  com 
fortably. 

After  a  chadow  of  a  breakfast,  consisting  of  turkey  bones 
and  a  cup  of  coffee  without  sugar,  we  decamped  at  an  early 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES.  135 

hour;  for  hunger  is  a  sharp  quickener  on  a  journey.  The 
prairies  were  all  gemmed  with  frost,  that  covered  the  tall 
weeds  and  glistened  in  the  sun.  We  saw  great  flights  of 
prairie-hens,  or  grouse,  that  hovered  from  tree  to  tree,  or  sat 
in  rows  along  the  naked  branches,  waiting  until  the  sun  should 
melt  the  frost  from  the  weeds  and  herbage.  Our  rangers  no 
longer  despised  such  humble  game,  but  turned  from  the  ranks 
in  pursuit  of  a  prairie-hen  as  eagerly  as  they  formerly  would 
go  in  pursuit  of  a  deer. 

Every  one  now  pushed  forward,  anxious  to  arrive  at  some 
human  habitation  before  night.  The  poor  horses  were  urged 
beyond  their  strength,  in  the  thought  of  soon  being  able  to 
indemnify  them  for  present  toil,  by  rest  and  ample  provender. 
Still  the  distances  seemed  to  stretch  out  more  than  ever,  and 
the  blue  hills,  pointed  out  as  landmarks  on  the  horizon,  to 
recede  as  we  advanced.  Every  step  became  a  labor;  every 
now  and  then  a  miserable  horse  would  give  out  and  lie  down. 
His  owner  would  raise  him  by  main  strength,  force  him  for 
ward  to  the  margin  of  some  stream,  where  there- might  be  a 
scanty  border  of  herbage,  and  then  abandon  him  to  his  fate. 
Among  those  that  were  thus  left  on  the  way,  was  one  of  the 
led  horses  of  the  Count ;  a  prime  hunter,  that  had  taken  the 
lead  of  every  thing  in  the  chase  of  the  wild  horses.  It  was 
intended,  however,  as  soon  as  we  should  arrive  at  the  fort,  to 
send  out  a  party  provided  with  corn,  to  bring  in  such  of  the 
horses  as  should  survive. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning,  we  came  upon  Indian  tracks, 
crossing  each  other  in  various  directions,  a  proof  that  we  must 
be  in  the  neighborhood  of  human  habitations.  At  length,  on 
passing  through  a  skirt  of  wood,  we  beheld  two  or  three  log 
houses,  sheltered  under  lofty  trees  on  the  border  of  a  prairie, 
the  habitations  of  Creek  Indians,  who  had  small  farms  adja 
cent.  Had  they  been  sumptuous  villas,  abounding  with  the 
luxuries  of  civilization,  they  could  not  have  been  hailed  with 
greater  delight. 

Some  of  the  rangers  rode  up  to  them  in  quest  of  food ;  the 
greater  part,  however,  pushed  forward  in  search  of  the  habita 
tion  of  a  white  settler,  which  we  were  told  was  at  no  great  dis 
tance.  The  troop  soon  disappeared  among  the  tr^es,  and  I 
followed  slowly  in  their  track ;  for  my  once  fleet  and  generous 
steed  faltered  under  me,  and  was  just  able  to  drag  one  foot 
after  the  other,  yet  I  was  too  weary  and  exhausted  to  spare  him. 

In  this  way  we  crept  on,  until,  on  turning  a  thick  clump  of 


136  A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

trees,  a  frontier  farmhouse  suddenly  presented  itself  to  view. 
It  was  a  low  tenement. of  logs,  overshadowed  by  great  forest 
trees,  but  it  seemed  as  if  a  very  region  of  Cocaigne  prevailed 
around  it.  Here  was  a  stable  and  barn,  and  granaries  teem 
ing  with  abundance,  while  legions  of  grunting  swine,  gobbling 
turkeys,  cackling  hens  and  strutting  roosters,  swarmed  about 
the  farmyard. 

My  poor  jaded  and  half -famished  horse  raised  his  head  and 
pricked  up  his  ears  at  the  well-known  sights  and  sounds.  He 
gave  a  chuckling  inward  sound,  something  like  a  dry  laugh ; 
whisked  his  tail,  and  made  great  leeway  toward  a  corn-crib, 
filled  with  golden  ears  of  maize,  and  it  was  with  some  difficulty 
that  I  could  control  his  course,  and  steer  him  up  to  the  door 
of  the  cabin.  A  single  glance  within  was  sufficient  to  raise 
every  gastronomic  faculty.  There  sat  the  Captain  of  the 
rangers  and  his  officers,  round  a  three-legged  table,  crowned 
by  a  broad  and  smoking  dish  of  boiled  beef  and  turnips.  I 
sprang  off  my  horse  in  an  instant,  cast  him  loose  to  make  his 
way  to  the  corn-crib,  and  entered  this  palace  of  plenty.  A  fat 
good-humored  negress  received  me  at  the  door.  She  was  the 
mistress  of  the  house,  the  spouse  of  the  white  man,  who  was 
absent.  I  hailed  her  as  some  swart  fairy  of  the  wild,  that  had 
suddenly  conjured  up  a  banquet  in  the  desert ;  and  a  banquet 
was  it  in  good  sooth.  In  a  twinkling,  she  lugged  from  th&  fire 
a  huge  iron  pot,  that  might  have  rivalled  one  of  the  famous 
flesh-pots  of  Egypt,  or  the  witches'  caldron  in  Macbeth. 
Placing  a  brown  earthen  dish  on  the  floor,  she  inclined  the 
corpulent  caldron  011  one  side,  and  out  leaped  sundry  great 
morsels  of  beef,  with  a  regiment  of  turnips  tumbling  after 
them,  and  a  rich  cascade  of  broth  overflowing  the  whole. 
This  she  handed  me  with  an  ivory  smile  that  extended  from 
ear  to  ear;  apologizing  for  our  humble  fare,  and  the  humble 
style  in  which  it  was  served  up.  Humble  fare !  humble  style ! 
Boiled  beef  and  turnips,  and  an  earthen  dish  to  eat  them  from ! 
To  think  of  apologizing  for  such  a  treat  to  a  half -starved  man 
from  the  prairies;  and  then  such  magnificent  slices  of  bread 
and  butter  f  Head  of  Apicius,  what  a  banquet ! 

"The  rage  of  hunger"  being  appeased,  I  began  to  think  of 
my  horse.  He,  however,  like  an  old  campaigner,  had  taken 
good  care  of  himself.  I  found  him  paying  assiduous  attention 
to  the  crib  of  Indian  corn,  and  dexterously  drawing  forth  and 
munching  the  ears  that  protruded  between  the  bars.  It  was 
with  great  regret  that  I  interrupted  his  repast,  which  he 


A   TOUR  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 

abandoned  with  a  heavy  sigh,  or  rather  a  rumbling  groan.  I 
was  anxious,  however,  to  rejoin  my  travelling  companions, 
who  had  passed  by  the  farmhouse  without  stopping,  and  pro 
ceeded  to  the  banks  of  the  Arkansas ;  being  in  hopes  of  arriv 
ing  before  night  at  the  Osage  Agency.  Leaving  the  Captain 
and  his  troop,  therefore,  amidst  the  abundance  of  the  farm, 
where  they  had  determined  to  quarter  themselves  for  the  night, 
I  bade  adieu  to  our  sable  hostess,  and  again  pushed  forward. 

A  ride  of  about  a  mile  brought  me  to  where  my  comrades 
were  waiting  on  the  banks  of  the  Arkansas,  which  here  poured 
along  between  beautiful  forests.  A  number  of  Creek  Indians, 
in  their  brightly  colored  dresses,  looking  like  so  many  gay 
tropical  birds,  were  busy  aiding  our  men  to  transport  the  bag 
gage  across  the  river  in  a  canoe.  While  this  was  doing,  our 
horses  had  another  regale  from  two  great  cribs  heaped  up 
with  ears  of  Indian  corn,  which  stood  near  the  edge  of  the 
river.  We  had  to  keep  a  check  upon  the  poor  half -famished 
animals,  lest  they  should  injure  themselves  by  their  voracity. 

The  baggage  being  all  carried  to  the  opposite  bank,  we  em 
barked  in  the  canoe,  and  swam  our  horses  acrosp  the  river.  I 
was  fearful,  lest  in  their  enfeebled  state,  they  should  not  be 
able  to  stem  the  current ;  but  their  banquet  of  Indian  corn  had 
already  infu-ed  fresh  life  and  spirit  into  them,  and  it  would 
appear  as  if  they  were  cheered  by  the  instinctive  conscious 
ness  of  their  approach  to  home,  where  they  would  soon  be  at 
rest,  and  in  plentiful  quarters ;  for  no  sooner  had  we  landed 
and  resumed  our  route,  than  they  set  off  on  a  hand-gallop,  and 
continued  so  for  a  great  part  of  seven  miles,  that  we  had  to 
ride  through  the  woods. 

It  was  an  early  hour  in  the  evening  when  we  arrived  at  the 
Agency,  on  the  banks  of  the  Verdigris  Hiver,  whence  we  had 
set  off  about  a  month  before.  Here  we  passed  the  night  com- 
lortably  quartered;  yet,  after  having  been  accustomed  to 
sleep  in  the  open  air,  the  confinement  of  a  chamber  was,  in 
some  respects,  irksome.  The  atmosphere  seemed  close,  and 
destitute  of  freshness;  and  when  I  woke  in  the  night  and 
gazed  about  me  upon  complete  darkness,  I  missed  the  glorious 
companionship  of  the  stars. 

The  next  morning,  after  breakfast,  I  again  set  forward,  in 
company  with  the  worthy  Commissioner,  for  Fort  Gibson, 
where  we  arrived  much  tattered,  travel-stained,  and  weather- 
beaten,  but  in  high  health  and  spirits;— and  thus  ended  my 
foray  into  the  Pawnee  Hunting  Grounds. 


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